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SCOPONE

The document explains the main rules and strategies of Scopone scientifico. It describes key concepts such as spariglio, mulinello, and terminology used in the game such as dealer, hand pair, and free card.
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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
75 views13 pages

SCOPONE

The document explains the main rules and strategies of Scopone scientifico. It describes key concepts such as spariglio, mulinello, and terminology used in the game such as dealer, hand pair, and free card.
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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SCOPONE

Why is the rule of Spariglio the main one in this game?

As it is obvious, the first player to play a card is at a disadvantage because it can be prey.
of the opponent that follows him.
In the 10-card game, this fact results in a scopa; in the 9-card game, since there are 4 cards in
At the table, one does not leave a broom (except in rare cases), but often gives that card to the opponent.
Assuming at table 7, 8, 9 and 10 the thing seems quite simple to understand: if even the first of
I take 7, the second will take 8 and so on.
In essence, the couple that plays first will lose almost all of its cards to the advantage of the
opposing couple.

Let us suppose instead that, in the previous example, the first player plays Ace, without taking.
If the second player, who does not have an Ace, decided to take 9, the third can make 8+1=9 leaving in
table 7 and 10. He then made a disruption (of 1, 8 and 9) and has the pair play on 2 cards.

Taking on two cards means risking a broomstick, on the remaining card, in favor of the other pair.
This is how a two-card whirlpool is created: one pair always plays down, while the other always takes.
If the pair that drops does not reverse the situation, it will leave all the points to the other.

Ultimately, doing a shuffle benefits the couple that is not the dealer, keeping the cards even is
task of the dealer couple, simply because they play afterwards.

All the hands are good for the non-dealer pair?

Certainly the best ones are the 3-card ones, for example 5=3+2, particularly those that engage in
risk the 7 (so 3+2=5, 1+3=4, 1+5=6; with them remaining in play are 2 and 5 shuffled (it is also said
rotti) or 3 and 4 or 6 and 1.
Others that can cause problems for the dealer are 7+1=8, 7+2=9, 7+3=10.

In general, the non-dealer couple benefits from keeping the number of shuffled values odd.
If you take 1+2+3=6 as the first hand risking the scopa on the remaining card, you shuffle 4.
values but in general this deal is favorable to the dealer pair.

What are the best counterbalances for the dealer couple when they are involved?
7?

If it is not possible to re-pair with the original cards (i.e., proposing the same combination again)
that led to the upheaval) these combinations are agreed upon:
the catch 6+1 = 7 and counterbalances with 2+4 = 6;
the catch 5+2 = 7 and counters with 1+4 = 5;
the catch 4+3 = 7 and counters the tie with 1+2 = 3.

These combinations leave 1-2-4 broken (besides the 7 of course) and survive a capture.
2+1=3 and 4+1=5, 4+2=6, possibilities in the continuation, always leaving a sum of odd values.
equal to 7.

Besides the previous cards, what other ones pose risks to the dealer couple?
There are particular combinations that could destabilize the dealer and lead him to suffer the
sweep in the final.
Let's suppose we have 1 broken card, for example 6, the only card on the table, and that there are still in
two 7s, two Aces, two 8s; if, in the end, the cards are arranged this way: first in hand 7
gold, second hand Ace of clubs, third hand with Ace of gold and 8 gold, dealer with 7 ugly and 8
rough, the ball of the game is at the third, the counter-miller.
If you silence Asso, offering a sweep of 7, whether the dealer makes a sweep or not, you take the 7 of gold, and you pick it up again.
Optional sweep and the dealer draws.
Another example with 2 broken cards (2 even or 2 odd), for example 2 and 4, or 1 and 5: if
the four 6s are still in play, the dealer cannot think of holding a pair of 6s, because it gives away
I have 6 and also the broom, whether I have two 6s or whether I have 5 and 6 in hand.
Another case: 3 broken cards (2 odd and one even, or three even), for example 2, 3, 5 broken: let’s assume
that at the table there is 2 broken, in the hand of the First a 3, in the second an Ace, in the hand of the third (which must
play) Ace and 6, 5 and 6 to the dealer. If the counter-dealer plays Ace, the dealer is knocked out and
He must play 6 to avoid giving a sweep.

What does Mulinello mean?

A Mulinello refers to the situation where one couple always drops and the other always takes.

How many types of reel exist?


In addition to being played on 2 cards, the Mulinello can be made on 1 card (the last one for that value) or as a double in hand.
to the couple that gets the round's favor. It could also form with 3 cards, with 3 values that remain.
on the table because the last ones left, or because those who have them in hand decide to exploit their
combinability with any opponent's cards.
For example, in table 10, 8 (last) and 5 (with the fourth 5 in the dealer's hand); who leaves the 5
wants to favor a take of 7 or 6 of their own or of the partner's, in the event that the opponent plays 2 or Ace.

How is a favor spool generated?

In various ways: generating a shuffle (for the non-dealer couple) with 3 cards.
The dealer pair can reshuffle to turn it to their advantage.

An alternative is to play a last card on the 2 present on the table, or a card from the double that
he/she has in hand.
For example, Ace on 9 and 10, but not dropping Ace on 8 and 9 because, if the Kings are in play, the pair.
The opponent could do 9+1=10, leaving 8 on the ground or the last one.

How do you stop a disadvantageous reel by reversing it?

If we talk about the Two-card Spinner, it is necessary to risk the sweep, taking one of the two and
counting on a detention order in hand to the partner, on which to trigger the reel at will
favor. Or by playing a low card that cannot be combined with either of the 2 in play, waiting
a low card from the opponent that allows the partner to remove 3 cards.
For example, 8 and 9 on the table, playing Ace or Two last (King out of the game) if the opponent does not have 8
At 9, it will have to drop (for example) 3 or 4; by combining the two low cards, only 2 will remain on the table.
the card and the spinner are inverted.

How do you maintain a reel in favor?


For example, on 8 and 9 in the table (last cards), playing one last 3.
Folding Ace or Two could give the opponent the opportunity to make 9+1=10 or 8+2=10.
inverting it. For this reason, on the last card, either you take it or you play it in reverse; for example on the table.
10 and Ace, last present, if you CANNOT remove King it is necessary to play 9 protecting the card
from the reel (since 9+1=10 it is not possible to take out the Ace), lacking 9 you play a 4 knowing
that the 5 are over and so on.
This type of card played is called exchange: one card is taken from the opponent and one from the
partner and this keeps the reel in operation.

When do you play a last (fourth) card?

When it is necessary to stop a broom, or on 2 cards ensuring that they are not combinable.
with the 2 on the table (for example Ace on 9 and 10). The opponent can take a card (e.g. the 9), the
socio the other (the 10) and the last Ace remains on the table on which the whirlwind is triggered.

The language of Scopone

The arrangement of the players. Scopone scientifico is played with four. The dealer is
the first of hands is to the right of the dealer. To the right of the first hand
he is located next to the dealer's partner. Finally, to the right of the dealer's partner, and thus to the left of the
The same dealer takes the place of the third under-dealer.

Pair of deck and pair of hand. The pair of deck is composed of the dealer and his
partner. The hand pair is formed by the first hand and the third hand. The deck pair
has the advantage of playing the last card. The hand pair tries to counter it through the
sparigli (rule no. 28 of the Chitarrella Code).

Card distribution. It is important that the cards are distributed according to rule no. 8
from the Code of Chitarrella: each one is given a set of three cards three times; four are placed on the
table, two at a time in the first distributions. All cards, including those placed on the table, go
distribute blankets.

The shuffle. The shuffle consists of taking more than one card with a single card whose value is
equal to the sum of the taken cards. The cards taken with a shuffle are called shuffled.

The shuffle is the supporting pillar and the foundation of the game (rule no. 28 of the Code of )
Chitarrella). When it is not possible to make reshuffles, the game proceeds in a flat manner and at
exclusive advantage of the deck pair.

It is essential to keep track of the shuffled cards because only then can the players
steering the game to their advantage. Making the mnemonic count of the twists is called doing the
forty-eight (rule no. 41 of the Chitarrella Code).

The trump card. A card is called trump when the remaining cards still in play are in
the possession of a single pair of players. Sometimes the last card of a
quartet, when the other three have already been taken.

For the pair of players, owning a wildcard is important because they can
make the move leaving only the plain card on the table without the risk of a sweep.
The whirlpool. The whirlpool is that game situation in which a couple continually
while the other plays without ever taking.

The whirlpool typically occurs when a pair of players has managed to liberate.
a letter or when the last card of a quartet is played, of which the other three have already been taken.

To play a card. The term 'to play a card' is used ironically when one has to drop.
mandatory a card without the option to take.

Usually, this expression is used to indicate the laying down of cards by the
couple that suffers the whirlpool.

The trump. The trump is the card with which the dealer makes the last play.

Sometimes it is advantageous for the player to keep one card in hand until the end.
sparing, allowing his partner to make the last catch. This happens, for example,
when the dealer must avoid the formation of the combination of seven, as the seven of hearts is the last one
seven in play and in possession of the opponents.

However, beware of the Catullus altallone, which takes its name from the obstinate character Catullus.
in wanting to hold as a heel the unplayed ace!

The meeting card. The meeting card is the third card of a quartet of equal value, of which two
maps have already been discovered and the location of the fourth is unknown.

The most common way for the meeting card to form is at the beginning of the hand, when
Two cards of equal value are taken. The player who only possesses the third card cannot
In no way to know the placement of the fourth. It is good for the player, especially if part of the couple.
from the deck, the player who has such a card plays it: this way they will avoid playing single cards, which they still have in hand.
I play the trio or cards to which the partner did not respond.

The mandatory broom. The mandatory broom is that combination of play in which, following the
recomposition of the mismatches, the hand pair is mandatory, with the last move of the first one
hand, to pay the broom to the dealer's partner.

This combination occurs when the hand pair has not succeeded in
to perform a reshuffle or when a total recombination of the dealt cards occurs.

Avoiding the obligatory broom is the exclusive task of the third party, who, having ascertained the
danger of the obliged broom, it must not absolutely remove the free card from the table in its
possession or one must not play the last wild card. It's better to play the beautiful seven and lose the
match 4 to 0, rather hold onto the lucky seven until the last moment, then hand it over to the dealer
after paying for the broom and thus losing 5 to 0.

The playing techniques

Learning to play Scopone. Scopone is a complex game, therefore


learning must be done in stages: starting from the knowledge of elementary rules, one proceeds with
the acquisition of mnemonic techniques to remember the shuffles; therefore learn the rules better
sophisticated, the player is ready to make some brilliant plays outside the norm. As I have
already commented, the Chitarrella Code is important especially from a regulatory standpoint, while it is
There has been some criticism regarding the technical aspects of the game's execution. Fortunately, in the
There are two books that I consider essential for learning about the literature related to Scopone.
aware of the rules of the game.

Obviously, there is also an unconscious learning that is acquired by playing a lot.


learning, through mistakes and rough advice, how to navigate the various situations in the best way
game. This situation is comparable to the knowledge of a language. Everyone, more or less, knows
speak our language: but those who have studied grammar and syntax know the reason why it is
speaks in one way rather than another; as a result, knows how to consciously adapt the language
to their own needs, even the most refined ones.

The first phase: the fundamental rules. The fundamental and essential rules for a first
knowledge, even if deep, of the game of Scopone is masterfully illustrated in the book:

Giovanni Saracino
The Scientific Scopone
Mursia (1963 – 1983, Milan)

The text quoted here, starting from the basics of the game, allows the reader to learn all the techniques.
fundamental for the gameplay: from the shuffling to the reel, from the drop to the catch
seven. Finally, it shows how the playing methods of the first hand are different from each other,
companion of the dealer, of the third hand and of the dealer.

The second phase: the sophisticated rules. When the basic rules have been acquired, one
needs more sophisticated knowledge to brilliantly solve complex situations of
game. In this study, the book helps us:

Angelo Cicuti, Agostino Guardamagna


The Secrets of Scopone
Mursia (1976 – 1978, Milan)

From this book, the reader learns new and more sophisticated techniques; they understand that not always the
the dealer must allow the seven dropped from the third hand to pass and, on rare occasions, the sacrifice
The victory of the match is worth the set.

The rules of the game: a handbook. Below I report some rules taken from the two cited books - among
in parentheses is indicated the page of the book where they can be found and therefore inserted into the context of
a broader explanation. Such rules are so important that they constitute, in themselves, a kind of
new code of game techniques that cannot be disregarded.

From the book of Giovanni Saracino

The level of the Scopone pair is determined by the least skilled player.

S1 (32). Whoever is interested in maintaining the oddity must try to play the last odd card of
higher value: in this case, the re-matching is no longer possible.

S2 (57). You must play the double cards and respond to your partner. When there is no match.
It is better to dare than to resign. Giving a broom is better than losing many.
map.
From the beginning, there are two similar cards on the table. Experience advises not to take
one of those cards even if it's gold, unless a focus has been established on another card.

S4 (59). One should never play a fourth card (that is, the last card of a quartet of which three are
already taken states) when there is a danger that the opponents will swirl on that fourth card.

S5 (60). The reel can be executed on a small card or on a figure of the opponents of
the dealer must always prefer to do it on the small card.

In general, when possible, one must take it. If it cannot be taken, one must always...
play a double card. If the opponent takes it and the partner has the other similar card, they must immediately
play it in a way that allows the whirlpool to form around that card which becomes the
fulcro. This card is called "franca" as the last one is in the possession of the player who played it first.

As a rule, the partner should never take the double card of their partner, but wait.
let one of the opponents take it, in order to free it. It is useless and harmful to replay the card at the
which the companion did not respond, because possessing it gives the opponents the opportunity to
to form the windmill on that paper.

S7 (66). Having double cards and triple cards, one must first deal with the triples.

S8 (67). When a pair is taken and one of the players immediately plays the same card as the pair.
it means that he also possesses the fourth.

S9 (68). The play of a figure on a small card is not an indication for the partner to have the
duplicate of that card because one might have been forced to play it to avoid a scopa.

S10 (81). It is preferable to play a double card rather than a third card (the third card is called a third card of a
quartet the card of which two have already been played) when one is in sight of a series of scopes.

S11 (89). The player will always play the low pair when they can play either a low or a high one.
provided that, of course, it is allowed by the cards on the table.

The teammate of the card player must always take the 7 played both by their partner and
from the opponents.

S13 (97). When the partner of the card player has the opportunity to take a 7 that is on the table or to
to unpair it, for example taking 7 + 1 = 8, must always unpair it if they have only one 7 in hand.

S14 (98). The same should be done if they do not have 7; that is, if they are offered the opportunity to take one.
by reshuffling it, as in the previous case, must do it even if he discards three cards: 7 + 1 = 8.

S15 (100). While the breaking pair must always play the last major shuffle, the
the companion of the card man must never do it, leaving it to his partner to play it where he sees fit
convenience.

The partner of the card player, having two 7s, must always take the 7 that is on the table and
don't spill it by taking, for example, 7 + 1 = 8.

S17 (103). When faced with a choice, the companion of the card player must avoid taking a
a card that, when added to the card of which you have a pair, can lead to a total of seven.
S18 (107). When the partner of the card player makes a seven with a play of the type 4 + 3 = 7,
By being able to avoid doing it, it is clear that he still has a seven.

S19 (109). When there have not been any broken pairs, the hand pair is meant to carry the
own card to the deck pair simply because the latter plays after. To get out of the
walrus that pins them down and to try to score some points (money or cards) or to draw them, the third of
one should not hesitate to play simple cards. In fact, if the dealer does not take the card,
Believing it to be a double, the player can take a pair of cards that he otherwise wouldn’t have.
I took it. Moreover, if the fourth card is in the hand of the dealer's partner, the pair of deck that
He will hesitate to play that card believing he is handing it over to the third hand, he possesses a free card.
but he will only know at the end of the deal.

S20 (110). When the third player is left with the last two cards, having one even card and one card
greater free-for-all, must play on equal terms.

S21 (112). Every player who has two 7s or the Settebello in their hand must always take the 7.
played by others, both opponents and the partner.

S22 (115). When the four 7s are still in play, those without a 7 should never try to make them.
spare.

S23 (117). The player with two 7s must play them as late as possible. However, if they are offered...
The opportunity to take one must always be done.

It is never advisable to take a 7 out of suit from a player who has three of them.
It is always advisable to let the opponents take the fourth 7 that is not paired, especially when you don't have any.
6.

From the book by Angelo Cicuti and Agostino Guardamagna

C1 (21). The companion of the dealer who holds the pair of sevens must always take the
seven, also with interference.

The player who has three sevens along with the beautiful seven must immediately lay one down.

C3 (53). The player who has the pair of 7s without the Seven of Diamonds must play the 7 as late as possible.
possible and, in any case, revealing a moment of uncertainty.

C4 (54). The opponent of the dealer, who holds the pair of 7 with the beautiful seven, must
study to lower the 7 when the game allows the partner to double the combination.

C5 (54). The player who holds the last two 7s with the beautiful one, when it is from the hand pair.
The seven of hearts must be played first, and when it's the dealer's turn, the other seven must be played first.

C6 (55). The dealer's companion, the third player, and the dealer, who hold three 7s without the
beautiful and they want to aim for capturing the lucky seven, they must play the 7 on a low card that
allow the disruption of the 7.

C7 (71). When there are still three 7s in play and the dealer has the seven of diamonds, the partner of
the dealer, who does not have 7, must remain in possession of an unshuffled card that forms
7 with a shuffled card and ensure that the latter is not paired.
C8 (71). When the third hand plays 7 and the first hand has the possibility to double the
combination of 7, the dealer must take 7 even if he is certain that the first hand does not.
It possesses 7.

C9 (72). When the third in hand plays a 7, the dealer who does not have a 7 must not double the
combination of 7, but it must try to prevent the first hand from doubling 7.

C10 (72). When the dealer's partner and the third hand hold the last two 7s, the
the dealer can facilitate the taking of the 7 with a shuffle by the partner, remaining in possession of
a non shuffled card that forms 7 with a shuffled one.

C11 (72). When the shuffled cards are 3, 4, 7; or 2, 5, 7; or 1, 6, 7; and the third in hand
he possesses the last 7, the dealer whose interests lie in taking the 7 must remain in possession,
respectively, in the first case of a 3 or a 4; in the second case, of a 2 or a 5; in the third case,
of an ace or a 6.

The rule also applies to the partner of the dealer when the last 7 is owned by
first-hand.

C12 (72). When three 7s are left in play, the first player who does not have a 7 must orient.
the game in order to create a barrier to the passage of 7 (for example, with the eight if it is shuffled
the ace, with 9 if 2 has been shuffled, with 10 if 3 has been shuffled). When there is no such possibility
must remain in possession of an unshuffled card that forms 7 with a shuffled card.

C13 (73). The first player should not normally take the 7 played by the dealer unless they achieve the
point of the first

C14 (73). When one is forced to risk a sweep by choosing between a pair and a triplet, one must
always take risks where you have three of a kind rather than where you have a pair.

C15 (74). The point of the deck has double value of the broom.

C16 (71). Cards of equal value can be discarded in any number from one to five;
odd valued hands can only be paired in pairs: consequently in all the
combinations of the misdeal which include them are two, four or none.

C17 (44): the proof of the 'forty-eight'. When the game belongs to the couple in hand: at a number
even or odd card on the table corresponds, respectively, to an even or odd number of cards
split. Conversely, when the game belongs to the deck couple: with an even or odd number of
cards on the table correspond, respectively, to an odd or even number of shuffled cards.

If the player who has to and if the cards in so the cards


playing belongs to the board is in sparigliatesono in
number number

Couple of hands Fairy Fairy

Pair of hands Odd Odd

Pair of deck Fairy Odd


Pair of cards Odd Fairy

An immediate way to remember this rule is to observe that, at the beginning of the hand, the
the number of shuffled cards is zero (even number) and that in front of the first hand (player of the
pair of hands) there are four cards (even number): therefore for the pair of even hands with even,
odd with odd. On the other hand, if the first player deals takes three cards (odd number) and
In front of the dealer's partner (player of the deck pair) there are two cards (number
pair): therefore for the pair of even with odd, odd with even.

The 44 rules of Chitarrella

Rule 1. Scopone is so named because it is a big broom: the broom, also called a small broom,
you play with three cards, the scopone with nine. And the scopa takes its name from the point that is made
taking all the cards on the table, as if they were being revealed.

Rule 2. Players of scopone on this side of the Po generally use Italian cards, whose suits
(as stated in the book of the Mediator and Tressette) there are four: swords, cups, coins, sticks.
And each seed has ten cards: the ace, the two, the three, the four, the five, the six, the seven, and three face cards, the
woman worth eight, the horse nine and the king ten.

Over there beyond the Po, they use the cards that we Neapolitans call French, whose suits are diamonds,
hearts, flowers, and spades. In the figures, there is the jack instead of the woman and the queen instead of the knight.

But classic scopone is played with Italian cards.

Rule 3. The highest card is the seven, among the sevens the highest is the seven of coins which is
it is also called seven of gold; but the classic name is seven beautiful.

Following, in descending order, the six, the ace, the five, the four, the three, the two, the king,
horse, the woman, as far as the primiera is concerned; but the card takes the one that is equal to it,
any suit, or an equal sum made up of the lower cards. Therefore, the maximum card is the
ten, the minimum is the ace.

Rule 4. This game is played with four players, two partners against two, and it is a common practice.
change the partner after one or two plays, so that whoever is serving does not lose the advantage.
Playing by changing is called taking a turn.

Rule 5. The person who deals the cards is called the dealer. At the beginning of the game, the first
the cart is chosen at random, because it has advantages, among others remaining last at the end of the game.
to play.

The choice is made by distributing face-up cards, and the conventions vary depending on the
custom or the will of the players: generally, the one who receives the first ace is the first to play
map.

Rule 6. The chosen dealer shuffles, the player on the left raises, the one on the right is the first hand.
The opponents can also shuffle if they want, but the dealer has the right to shuffle for
last.

Rule 7. The most common use today is to deal the cards from the top of the deck, but in the
classic scopone, for the utmost caution possible, the distribution is done from the lower side.

Rule 8. 36 cards are dealt, nine to each player and four are placed face up on the table.
Each player is dealt a set of three cards three times. Four cards are placed on the table, two at a time.
in the first distributions. But so these that those at the discretion of the paper maker.

Rule 9. If the dealer discovers three kings on the table, they shuffle and make a new distribution, because three kings
they prevent the brooms throughout the course of the match.

Rule 10. If an error occurs while dealing the cards, it is at the discretion of the first dealer to request that it
They should redo the cards or correct the mistake.

But if the mistake consists of some cards fallen to the ground or revealed, they must be reshuffled; and the
He gives the same cardboard again, because neither he nor those who are in charge should lose their advantage.

But in a strict game, especially in a competition, it is better to remedy every mistake.


reshuffling.

Rule 11. Whoever is slow of hand takes, as it has been said, from the table the card equal to the one they play or
two or more cards that, when added together, make the number of the played card; but, if there is on the table
the same, you cannot sum the others.

If the cards on the table allow you to sum in various ways, the player can choose.
that which seems most useful to him.

If, having discovered the card, there is something to take, one cannot give up the take.

Not wanting to take, one discovers a card with which taking is not possible.

Rule 12. The last player to take takes all the cards, including those of the other players.
after him who remain without grip.

Rule 13. Once the card is played, it is absolutely forbidden to take it back.

Rule 14. If the player finds on the table only one card equal to the one they have or only
more cards that summed make his, puts a broom that is worth one point. So the broom card the
puts under the deck of cards taken by him and his partner face up and visible.

Rule 15. At the end of the game, with the last trick, one cannot score a sweep.

Rule 16. The so-called deck points are four: the cards, if one makes more than twenty, that is, more than half.
from the deck; the coins, if one has taken more than five coins or gold; Seven of coins; primary.

Rule 17. To assemble the primiera, the highest cards are the sevens, as already mentioned;
follow the six, the aces, the five, up to the figures, which are worth less than all.
Rule 18. Each card in the primiera is assigned a specific number. The seven is considered
twenty-one, six eighteen, ace sixteen, five fifteen, four fourteen, three thirteen, two
twelve. All the figures, queen, knight and king, are worth ten.

Rule 19. Combined with the primiera are the four highest cards, one for each suit, the two
the first opponents confront each other and the one with the highest cards can sum up a
greater total.

Rule 20. If the primes are even, just as if the cards or the money are even, the point is canceled.

Rule 21. Against the first three sevens and a two, it makes a tie against a seven and three sixes.

Rule 22. If a color is completely missing in a first round, the opponent wins, even if there is a result of a
minor sum.

Rule 23. The four deck points must have brooms added.

Rule 24. The teammates who reach 11 points first win. However, it often goes up to sixteen as well. If
both sides make eleven or sixteen simultaneously, it continues until an event occurs
difference.

Rule 25. Some, imitating Tressette, enrich - as they say - Scopone, making it
of three degrees: simple, if - going to eleven - the opponents exceed five points; double, if they do not
superano; threefold, if they don't score any points, which is said to be "going coat".

Consequently, it is paid simple or double or triple.

Rule 26. In the three-degree Scopone, as in Tressette, many declare themselves out before the
end of the hand, as soon as they are sure they have made the necessary points to reach eleven, and this for
prevent opponents from exceeding five or, in the event of a blowout, finally manage to
make a point.

But those who love the classic Scopone, also known as scientific Scopone, prefer to play it.
without a declaration of being outside.

Rule 27. It is not allowed to look at the cards taken again, both your own and those of the others.
opponents, except for the first hand. In some places, it is customary to count one's own hidden cards.

But it must be remembered that Scopone scientifico is a very rigorous game, in which the
severe masters do not allow either to see the cards from the first hand or to count the covered cards.

Rule 28. This is the fundamental rule of Scopone:

The card player and his companion try to keep the cards of the same value equal, the
opponents to spare them.

Keeping the cards even during the game helps to play well throughout the game itself and
excellently in the end; therefore, if the opponents split them, it is necessary to try to match them again.

For the same reason, the opponents of the card player must insist on pairing them off.
Rule 29. If someone is first-hand, they know how to start with a good grip on the first four.
table card, easily triggers the reel, so two keep taking continuously and the other two
they play without taking.

Rule 30. When the game is nearing the end, it is better to play a single seven and keep a card.
fairy.

Rule 31. Those who cannot take a game cannot take a double card, of which they have another identical in hand.
Thus he encourages his partner to play the same card, if he has it and can do so without harm; if the opponent does it.
take it, the third will very likely fall into his power.

Rule 32. But, even if able, the partner does not take the partner's double card, but gives it to them.
leave.

Rule 33. This rule of playing double cards does not exclude sevens, because it is better to take a risk.
one of the two or three sevens that you have to put on the table in the end without any hope. But
If it’s the player with two sevens, you only play them last.

Rule 34. However, the player should remember that the beautiful seven is not just a point but is part
important of the primiera; therefore, if the delay could compromise the acquisition, take it immediately.

Rule 35. The card player who does not have seven circles to discard them.

Rule 36. The card player should not take the seven played by the opponents but let his partner do it.

The opponent of the card player takes the seven played by the card player or his partner, not already
that played by one's own teammate.

Rule 37. Whoever has the beautiful seven or two sevens always takes what is on the table.

Rule 38. If it seems useful to take even with the risk of a broom because only one remains in play.
fourth card without knowing who possesses it - which is said to play against the fourth - show yourself somewhat
thoughtful so that your companion understands and, having avoided a first danger, does not stumble into the second.

Rule 39. With three similar cards, even if there are seven, you must play one at a time and not keep them.
all three until the end.

Rule 40. The broom is free. The player can forgo it if they consider it useless, playing another card.

Rule 41. The attentive card player, if he remembers the cards that have been left unmatched, can at the end of the
man, when he was left with two cards and the others with one, to know from the cards on the table those.
that the other three players have; and this is said to do the forty-eight.

But the origin of this word is unknown.

Rule 42. Those who have no memory and are not capable of sustained attention should leave the Scopone and go to
play nuts.

Rule 43. Keep the pairs or break them up, avoid letting the opponents make the whirlpool, understand.
the opportunity of taking and finding a remedy in case of need, this is the great and subtle study
which grants Scopone the dignity of a science.
Rule 44. Remember, oh good player, that you are not only playing with your cards but also with the cards of the
companion.

Be careful not to be lured by an immediate good deal, at the risk of having to pay the price later.
because the philosophy of Scopone consists of looking far and considering, beyond the gain
immediate, the final outcome.

As in business, so in Scopone.

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