INTRODUCTION TO COSMECUTICALS

The term cosmeceutical, uniting the words cosmetic and pharmaceutical, was popularized by Dr.
Albert Kligman in the 1980s.3 Cosmeceuticals are topical agents that offer properties of both
cosmetics, which beautify or enhance appearance, and drugs, which therapeutically alter the skin
physiology and/or reverse a disease process. Cosmeceuticals typically contain at least one
distinguishing ingredient and purport beneficial effects beyond the abilities of purely cosmetic
products, commonly claiming to improve skin function, texture, tone, radiance, or firmness.

Cosmetics are substances used to enhance the appearance or odor of the human body. Cosmetics
include skin-care creams, lotions, powders, perfumes, lipsticks, fingernail and toe nail polish, eye
and facial makeup. Towelettes, permanent waves, colored contact lenses, hair colors, hair sprays
and gels, deodorants, hand sanitizer, baby products, bath oils, bubble baths, bath salts, butters
and many other types of products. A subset of cosmetics is called "make-up" which refers mainly
to colored products intended to change the user‘s appearance. [6] Pharmaceuticals or Drugs are
the substance that cure and heal having the disease-fighting or healing properties. A drug is
―intended for use in the diagnosis, cure, mitigation, treatment, or prevention of disease‖ and is
―intended to affect the structure or any function of the body‖. [7] Cosmeceuticals refers to the
mixture of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. The term cosmeceuticals refer to the substances that
exerted both cosmetic and therapeutic benefits. Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products with
biologically active ingredients purporting to have medical or drug-like benefits. [8] A
cosmeceuticals is an ingredient with medicinal properties that manifests beneficial topical
actions and provides protection against degenerative skin conditions. It encompasses cosmetic
actives with therapeutic, disease-fighting, or healing properties, there by serving as a bridge
between personal care products and pharmaceuticals. [9] Cosmeceuticals are the development
made within the world of dermatological products and the new beckon in skincare.
Cosmeceuticals are topical cosmetic pharmaceutical hybrids intended to enhance the health and
beauty of skin. Cosmeceuticals products are those poised on the gap between cosmetic products
that simply cleanse and beautify, and pharmaceuticals that cure and heal.

The Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act defines drugs as products that cure, treat, mitigate or prevent
disease, or affect the structure or function of the human body. The dermatology and cosmetic
industries recognize “cosmeceuticals” as cosmetics that have drug-like benefits. The Food and
Drug Administration (FDA) does not recognize or regulate cosmeceuticals. The market for
cosmeceuticals in the USA has grown substantially over the past 10years as the median age of
the population increases and the market for noninvasive rejuvenation expands.

History:

The health-giving property of cosmetics was first identified by the Egyptians. The cosmetics
were first used by Egyptians in 4000 B.C whose records are being available. [16] Up to the
beginning of 19th century, there was no clear separation between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals,
the separation occurred when the first modern pharmaceutical industry was developed. In 1980‘s
there was a rapid expansion of the cosmeceuticals due to hydroxy acids (natural fruit acids) used
as exfoliants against wrinkles. In 1961 the term cosmeceuticals was coined by the Raymond
Reed, founding member of the United States Society of Cosmetic Chemists. Albert Kligman in
1971 developed a formula to improve the appearance of UV damaged and wrinkled skin, using
retinoic acid thereby reactivated interest of the people in cosmeceuticals. [17] World-renowned
dermatologist Dr. Kligman made a long-lasting contribution to the world of skincare by
discovering that topical retinoic acid (or tretinoin) can be used for both an acne and wrinkle
treatment. Kligman may be described as the father of cosmeceuticals, a term he popularized. [18]
but cosmeceuticals first appeared in the world market in 1996. The several cosmetic jars have
been unearthed by the Archaeologists whose hieroglyphics say "good for sight" and "stops
bleeding". A medical papyrus "Ebers," which was written in 1600 BC, makes frequent reference
to a number of cosmeceuticals-type products. Red clay mixed with water was the choice of
make-up, for the cheeks and lips. Henna was used to paint the finger-nails yellow or orange. Egg
whites, gum Arabic, beeswax and gelatin were used to create nail color in ancient China.

The development of non-surgical or bio-physical non-invasive methods ( For example,

researchers are exploring the use of ultrasound technology for skin rejuvenation, as
well as the use of radiofrequency therapy to stimulate collagen production and
improve skin elasticity) allows to count on the crucial physiological properties of the skin,
such as 1) Moisturization 2) Barrier function 3) Mechanical properties, 4) Micro-circulation 5)
Skin colour.

Day by day various innovative terms for cosmeceuticals are being introduced viz.  Beauty
supplements  Active cosmetics  Bio-active cosmetics  Performance cosmetics 
Phytocosmetics  Functional cosmetics  Dermaceuticals  Skinceuticals  Cosmetic drugs 
Therapeutic cosmetics.

Cosmeceuticals affects the biological functioning of the skin (medicinal or drug like benefits)
depending upon the ingredients present in them. Cosmeceuticals increases the collagen growth in
the skin and reduces the harmful effects of free radicals thus maintain the structure of keratin in
good condition and making the skin healthier. [12] There are skin‐care products that go beyond
coloring and adorning the skin. Like cosmetics, cosmeceuticals are applied topically; they
contain ingredients that influence the skin‘s biological function. Cosmeceuticals are meant to
improve appearance by delivering nutrients necessary for healthy skin. Cosmeceuticals usually
claim to reduce wrinkles and to improve tone, texture and radiance of the skin. Cosmeceuticals is
the fastest-growing segment of the natural personal care industry.

Cosmetics and cosmeceuticals are tested only for safety. Efficacy testing is not compulsory.
Cosmeceuticals include most of the bioactive food components such as milk peptides certain
vitamins and minerals, phytonutrients from herbs, various oils and botanical extracts.
Cosmeceuticals market in nowadays more flourished with several botanicals having a history of
their use in traditional cultures. More and more cosmeceuticals are being used in cosmetic
products due to their less side effects and added advantage of multifunctionality. More recently
the emerging trend of beauty inside and out‖ is becoming increasingly popular, wherein orally
consumed nutritional supplements (nutricosmetics) and topically applied cosmeceuticals work
in harmony to promote physical appearance and wellbeing. In 2002, the well-known cosmetics
company L‘Oreal and the food manufacturing giant, Nestlé joined forces to create Innéov, a
company established to formulate and market nutritional supplements for beauty benefits.

Certain plant-based substances have been claimed to be used in cosmeceuticals products by

companies marketing them.

 Retinol (Vitamin A) and the retinoid has a history of efficacy in the handling the aging of
skin. Retinoid is known for stimulation of collagen synthesis there by growing and
transforming growth factor (TGF)-beta and procollagen. Growth factors represent an
increasingly popular component of cosmeceuticals. Results of in-vitro studies have
shown that by adding kinetin, a plant growth factor to human fibroblasts in culture,
 biological and morphological changes associated with cellular aging may be slowed
down.
 Antioxidants such as alpha-lipoic acid have the ability and capability to penetrate cellular
lipid membranes and to scavenge the intracellular free radical.
 Copper peptide is gaining recognition and in recent studies, enhancement in skin
roughness, fine lines, wrinkles, elasticity and overall photo damage versus control were
documented by ultrasound evaluation.

Generally cosmeceuticals are the OTC (Over the counter) sold products that claim to offer a
health benefit in addition to conventional cosmetic qualities.

Innovations in cosmeceuticals products over the next few years will come primarily in the
following areas:  Proof of effectiveness of ingredients, particularly natural extracts will become
more vital because consumers have a broad variety of choices and will discontinue use of
unproductive products.  Botanical products and extracts will continue to substitute chemical
materials and plants and fermentation will increasingly substitute animals as ingredient sources. 
Delivery systems will be more complex and effective. Offering triggered and controlled release
of actives and the research and development of nanostructure delivery systems will continue. 
Sunscreen actives will be gradually more present in daily wear products and new actives will
offer broad-spectrum UV coverage and/or higher sun protection factors.  Guideline of cosmetic
and drug products will be coordinated globally, particularly between North America, the
European Union, and Japan Technology Catalysts

CLASSES OF COSMECEUTICAL

Sunscreens: These are considered as OTC drugs: sun protection factor must be proven by in-
vitro and invivo studies. These are regarded by dermatologists as the single most important
formulation that should be applied daily. These are the products formulated to meet individual
preferences, such as scent and feel, can improve compliance.

Retinoids These are the natural and synthetic derivatives of vitamin A. Drugs: retinoic acid
(tretinoin). Adapalene and tazarotene Substantial scientific data confirm their anti-aging and anti-
acne benefits. Retinoic acid is considered by dermatologists to be the anti-aging gold standard.
These are available only through a doctor‘s prescription.
Cosmeceuticals: retinol, retinaldyehyde, retinylpropionale, retinylpalmitale. In many cases,
bioavailability and activity are unproven when formulated.

Moisturizer Moisturizer includes emollients (soften skin), occlusive‘s, and humectants

(maintains moisture). They are considered to be the most useful product for the management of
various skin conditions (e.g. atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, pruriws, aging skin).

Antioxydants These Include vitamins A, C and E: alpha liopic acid: Ubiquinone (coenzyme Q-
10): idebenone: polyphenols (e.g. catechins, flavenoids): kinetin: botanicals (e.g. teas, grapeseed,
grape skins and stems, coífeeberry). They enhance the skin‘s natural antioxidant protection
system with topical application. They reduce free-radical damage by blocking the oxidative
processes in cells. Antioxidants inhibit inflammation that causes collagen depletion. They protect
against photo damage and skin cancer. They do reverse signs of photo aging.

Hydroxy’ Acids (alpha. beta, poly) These include glycolic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic
acid, pyruvic acid and lactic acid. They can improve depigmentation and skin texture. They can
induce actual structural changes in skin, so the potential exists for regulatory scrutiny.

Skin Lightening Agents Hydroquinone is considered to be the most effective. They are
presently under re-evaluation by the US FDA. Sunscreen use is required due to drug-induced
photosensitivity, other examples include kojic acid, glabridin (licorice extract), arbutin, azelaic
acid, n-acetyl glucosamine and vitamin C.

Botanicals /Plant Extracts They have experienced a rapid rise due to the popularity of
―natural‖ compounds. These represent the largest group of additives found in marketed
products. They have limited scientific data to support efficacy and safety. Green tea extract,
honey
Aloe extract, Cucumber extrac

Epidermal Growth Factors These are the naturally occurring chemicals in the body that
influence cellular proliferation and differentiation. The potential applications include
regeneration of damaged or aged skin.

Proteins/ Peptides They can trigger skin repair as needed. There are some indications that they
can reduce the signs of aging and accelerate the skin‘s healing processes.
vitamines and Minérales Recently, the market is swamped with too many cosmeceuticals
products like anti wrinkle creams, medicated lotions, hair growth stimulants, antidandruff
shampoos, eye wrinkle creams, collagen injections, etc.

There are three primary categories of ingredients in cosmeceuticals that have the capability to
modify the biologic function of the skin

1. Botanicals, 2. Retinoids and 3. Hydroxy Acids.

Each offers its own unique benefits. Botanical extracts: including teas, soy, pomegranate, date,
grape seed, horse chestnut, German chamomile, curcumin, comfrey, allantoin and aloe, these are
natural plant-based ingredients that can contribute to generate refreshing, aromatic formulas to
soothe, hydrate, and balance the skin. Some are designed to soothe and calm inflamed or irritated
skin. Botanicals are typically not the primary ingredient of a cosmeceutical but are combined
with Retinoids and Hydroxy Acids to create effective skin care products. Retinoids: Retinoids
include Vitamin A and its derivatives, which act as antioxidants and help the skin in its natural
processes of circulation, exfoliation and cellular regeneration. Retinoids can reverse the signs of
aging, reducing fine lines and wrinkles, tightening and smoothing the skin surface and restoring a
youthful glow. Hydroxy Acids: They are often referred to as ―fruit acids‖ and are further
classified into two sub-categories according to their molecular structure: 1) alpha hydroxy acids
(AHAs) and 2) beta hydroxy acids (BHAs). AHAs such as Glycolic acid, Citric acid, Lactic acid,
Malic acid, Mandelic acid and Tartaric acid, are the uppermost anti-aging skin care ingredients
today. Alpha hydroxyl acids (AHAs) act by normalizing cell turnover in the top layers of the
skin (i.e. epidermis), and by boosting the formation of normal and healthy skin. They also result
in the diminishing of fine lines and wrinkles by helping in reversing the sun damage to the
dermis (the deeper layers of the skin). The most commonly used beta hydroxyl acid (BHA) is
salicylic acid, which works well as an exfoliant and is helpful in the treatment of acne and dry
skin.