Spad’s MoTeC Project

http://www.nogripracing.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32733

I have decided to make my MoTeC Project available for people to download if they
would like to. Below you will also find an explanation on how to use it! This
will work in GTR, GTR2, Race07 and GTR Evo.

The bits you want to be most interested in is the Tyres, Engine, Suspension,
SetUp and Brakes. These can be brought up by using the drop down dialogue box to
select then you can go to individual Worksheets. (Shown Below)

1
2. Tyres

Tyre Temps

Basically this is to make sure that you have the temps correct and evenly
balanced across the tyres. The outside needs to be colder than the inner with
the center roughly the average of the inner and outer temps. You balance these
out by adjusting tyre pressure and camber angle. (Shown Below)

Friction Circle

This shows you where your grip is on the tyres. It give you an idea of where you
can push and where grip is available and that the tyres are doing there job!
This is mainly for use with your camber settings to get more lateral (sideways)
grip.

2
3. Engine

All you need to checking here is the Engine Worksheet and concentrate on the
Engine RPM Graph. You use this to make sure you are not over revving the engine.
What ever car you drive has a Max BHP@RPM level. So as an example the car you
drive has 600bhp @ 6000RPM. Here you can check that you are not taking the revs
over 6000rpm. If you go over the 6000rpm mark you will start to lose power. To
stop this from happening you need to be changing gear at or just above where
your max BHP to RPM is.

3
4. Suspension

Damper Overview

Here you can see if your dampers are working correctly. Ideally all the 4 graphs
need to be green as shown in the below image. This means you have your dampers
dialed in correctly. If they are yellow they are under damped (need to be
speeded up) and if they are blue they are over damped (need to be slowed down).
Each individual wheels can be viewed by looking at Damper FL, Damper FR etc. The
left hand side of the graph is rebound and the right is bump. Ideally rebound
should be higher than bump. (Shown below)

4
Suspension %

These are the percentage rates for each wheel. Essentially what you need here is
symmetry for each of the front wheels and rear ones to. If you have kinks in
them you use your damper settings to iron them out. The left hand side of the
graph is Rebound and you need to use the rebound settings to iron out kinks. The
left is Bump and you do the same for that. As you can see the front dampers need
raising on both bump and rebound. If the kink is out then you lower it. (Shown
below)

5
Front Sus Tab (Rear Sus Tab is the same)

From top to bottom. First is Ride height. Obviously this is self explanatory. If
you are at zero then the car is bottoming out so raise the ride height! Next
down is Damper Position. This shows if you are running out of damper/spring
movement. Ideally you want to be running your springs as soft as possible and if
the graph is not at showing at zero then you can soften your springs more to get
better grip. Finally we are at Damper Velocity. These are the speeds at which
your dampers are working. As you dial in your dampers this graph will become as
it is in the picture, all close to the center. If it is not close to then center
then you need to speed up your dampers. Top half is bump and bottom is rebound
so if you have spikes in them you need to tighten the respective side. But
remember you will get high spikes when you ride curbs or go over bumps in the
track. This graph runs in conjunction with the damper over view and as you can
see they are all in the green and then on the Damper Velocity graph it shows
that the dampers are not getting big spikes and are close to center. This mean I
have the dampers nicely dialed in! You do exactly the same to check the Rear
Dampers/Springs/Ride Height with the Rear Sus worksheet. (Shown below)

6
5. Set Up

The main ones i use on this worksheet is Over-steer and Fuel. Over-steer is good
to see where you are getting it and then you can look at the Dampers and Springs
to see where to adjust them to dial out the over-steer. To spot over-steer look
in the top half of the Over-steer graph. If there are any spikes this indicates
over-steer. (Shown below)

Fuel is to check how much fuel you are using per lap. This is good for doing pit
strategies as it gives you a more accurate reading of how much fuel you are
using rather than using the in game pit strategy for calculating your fuel at
stops. Altho be warned sometimes it can be wrong and this is especially so when
using the fuel multiplier! Keep a close eye on this if you are using the fuel
multiplier!

7
6. Track Report

Most of these are obvious but the one you want is the Timing Tab. This shows
your lap time but more importantly your rolling minimum, this is what you should
be lapping at and also Eclectic which is potentially your fastest lap if add all
your fastest sectors together. (Shown below)

8
7. Brakes

This worksheet is used for making sure you are not locking any wheels. This is
checked by the top two graphs. If you have spikes dropping wheel speed to zero
then you need to adjust brake balance, dampers or spring rates to compensate for
this. You can also zoom it in and select a certain point and then jump to the
Suspension page and Front or Rear Sus Worksheet and see if you have any spikes
there to see inf the damper velocities are to high or you are running out of
spring/damper travel because this causes lock ups under braking. This is because
the respective wheel looses grip as it is not in touch with the tarmac and locks
up or you are just plainly hammering the brakes to hard! Next you can check the
Brake Pedal Pos Graph and Accelerator Pedal Pos Graph. When you are braking
ideally you never want to be off the the throttle. You can check this here. You
will find that keeping a small amount of throttle on while braking gives you
better control under braking but more importantly you can go harder and later on
the brakes. Also having your dampers correctly dialed in will give you much
better braking as they are keeping the tyres in touch with the tarmac and
generating longitudinal (braking) grip! (Shown below)

Also have a look at the Virtual Dash as this can be fun to

I hope this gives you guys some idea on how good a tool Motec really is and
helps you to faster laps!

9
NB1: The Suspension Histogram is read by looking at the time the spring spends
moving. The further away from zero it is the faster it moves and the closer to
zero it is the slower it moves. From this you can tell how fast or slow the
dampers are controlling the springs. Ideally toy want all four wheel running in
symmetry.

What you need to do is get nice cone where the springs are moving at similar
speeds. It's all done using damper settings and also a adjust thing spring rates
but more so dampers as it is these that control the rate or speed at which the
spring moves. To quick you will have the wider graphs and to slow and they will
be very close. These basically equate to over damped (wide) ad under damped
(close). Under damped makes the car wallow and feel sluggish and slow on turn
entry and exit where as over damped will make the car feel very skittish and
unstable over bumps and feel over active on turn entry and exit etc.

Experiment by setting the dampers also slow (low damper setting) as possible and
then go to the other extreme by running them as Fast (high dampers setting) as
possible. Also try different spring rates too.

10
NB2: The springs support the weight of the car so they have a big impact on how
it affects the ride height. It's not just ride height that determines whether a
car bottoms out or not.

For instance at Monza on the run down to the Ascari Chicane you will find that
if you run very low ride height and very soft springs you will get the car
bottoming out a lot. This is because the springs are soft and bottoming out
causing the car to ground because they are not supporting its weight fully! So
what you do is you increase ride height to cure this. Some people place packers
in to stop this from happening but from what I have read using packers can alter
the balance of the car sometimes drastically so. I suppose packers are a
personal thing as to whether or not you use them, myself... I never use them.

I have just done these images to demonstrate it. I took an F1 car out around
Monza in GTR2 to do these images to give you an idea. I first set the ride hide
to absolute minimum and fully softened the springs and then all i did the second
time out was run the springs to fully stiff. I used the F1 cars because they
demonstrate this principle best:

a) Min Ride Height and Fully Soft Springs

11
b) Min Ride Height and Fully Stiff Springs

As you can see with springs fully soft and min ride height the car bottoms out
constantly but running them fully stiff it supports the weight of the car better
and prevents it from bottoming out! It is not always ride height that causes a
car to bottom out! You also check this to make sure you are not running out of
spring or damper movement because that pretty much has the same effect as the
car scraping the tarmac... loss of time and speed!

I normally set the springs full soft or maybe one or two clicks above and set
the ride height to minimum. Then I got out and test it and then makes changes to
the ride height if necessary.

12
Notes
Springs - Ideally you always want to run your springs as soft as possible. This
is because you want grip and soft springs offer more grip (hard spring increase
tyre temps and wear) BUT... Springs can also effect the under/over-steer balance
too. You will find running soft front and hard rear springs will generate over-
steer while hard front and soft rear will lean more towards under-steer. You can
also use spring rates to a certain extent for weight transfer of the car. So as
an example if you are getting the car under-steer on corner entry/exit you can
take one click of front spring off or if its over-steer you take one click off
the rear. I would not do any more than one click for effecting weight transfer
or you will make matters worse!

Dampers - They do 2 major things:

1. They effect how the weight transfer of the car is effected on corner entry
and exit. This is done buy slowing down or speeding up how the weight is
transferred from front to rear. Slow rebound and Bump handle this. As an example
you are entering a right handed corner (corner entry) and you get over-steer on.
What is happening is the weight of the car is transferring to quickly to the
front of the car and the arse goes light and you over steer so you need to slow
it down. You do this by managing the slow side of your dampers. So you would is
slow the weight transfer down by speeding up left front slow bump and slowing
down right rear slow rebound. This essentially slows the weight transfer from
one corner of the car to the other. Have a look at the below image to give you
some idea of how to correct over-steer/under-steer on corner entry/exit by using
your dampers. I would recommend printing this off as it's a bitch to remember!

2. They control the rate at which the springs work. In popular terms these are
called shock absorbers but they absorb no shock at all. Dampers control the rate
at which the springs absorb shocks (fast bump and rebound). You use Fast Rebound
and Bump keep the tyres firmly in touch with the tarmac. Fast Bump - This is the
dampers controlling the rate at which the spring compresses as it absorbs a
shock of a bump in the track and rebound is the damper controlling the rate at
which the spring expands after the bump in the track. It basically controls the
rate the wheel rises and lowers. Get this right and the tyres stay contact with
the tarmac and generate more grip. Get them wrong the tyres will just skitter
over the bumps on a track. As a rule of thumb you should always run rebound
quicker than bump because you want the tyre back down quicker than it rises!

Remember dampers work in speed rates (fast and slow) not how soft or how hard
you run them!
Basically the Rebound setting is the Damper controlling the rate at which the
spring expands and bump is the rate at which the spring compressed. Also Fast
Bump and Rebound is for when the car is going over curbs and bumps in the track
and Slow Bump and Rebound is for controlling the weight transfer and how it
effects the car.

You can also use the Fast Bump and Rebound for curing over-steer/under-steer
when going over bumps in the track or curbs. So for bump under-steer you slow
the front fast damper settings and speed up the rear and vice versa for the
over-steer!

Dampers also effect how the car alters under acceleration and deceleration to.
When you accelerate the cars nose rise and rear falls and vice versa for
deceleration.

13
You need to edit your player file (PLR)

It will be in your main GTR2 folder under UserData/[Your Player Name] but if you
have a Steam install you will need to look in C:\Program Files\Steam\steamapps\
[steam username]\GTR2\UserData\[your player name]. Then look for the file {your
player name].plr and then open it with Notepad and edit these lines to read:

Data Acquisition Rate="10" // rates 1, 2 ,5, *10*, 20, 50, 100

Data Acquisition In Race="1"
Data Acquisition EXE="C:\Program Files\MoTeC\i2\1.0\MoTeC.exe"
Data Acquisition File="C:\Program Files\GTR2\UserData\vehicledata.spt"
MoTeC LogFolder="C:\MoTeC\Logged Data"
MoTeC Minimum Time="60" // minimum MoTeC recording time (sec)
MoTeC Multiple Logs="1" // generate unique filename for each new log

and in Steam's case:

Data Acquisition Rate="10" // rates 1, 2 ,5, *10*, 20, 50, 100

Data Acquisition In Race="1"
Data Acquisition EXE="C:\Program Files\MoTeC\i2\1.0\MoTeC.exe"
Data Acquisition File="C:\Program Files\Steam\steamapps\[Steam User
Name]\GTR2\UserData\vehicledata.spt"
MoTeC LogFolder="C:\MoTeC\Logged Data"
MoTeC Minimum Time="60" // minimum MoTeC recording time (sec)
MoTeC Multiple Logs="1" // generate unique filename for each new log

14