The MAGIC of KEFIR
The shepherds of the North Caucasus region of Europe were only trying to transport
milk the best way they knew how – in leather pouches strapped to the side of
donkeys – when they made a significant discovery. A fermentation process would
sometimes inadvertently occur en route, and when the pouches were opened upon
arrival they would no longer contain milk but rather a pungent, effervescent, low
alcoholic substance instead. This unexpected development was a blessing in
disguise. The new drink – which acquired the name kefir – turned out to be a health
tonic, a naturally-preserved dairy product and tasty addition to our culinary
repertoire.
Although their exact origin remains a mystery, we do know that yeast-based kefir
grains have always been at the root of the kefir phenomenon. These grains are
capable of a remarkable feat: in contradistinction to most other items you might find
in a grocery store, they actually expand and propagate with use. This is because the
grains, which are granular to the touch and bear a slight resemblance to cauliflower
rosettes, house active cultures that feed on lactose when added to milk.
Consequently, a bigger problem for most kefir drinkers is not where to source new
kefir grains, but what to do with the ones they already have!
The great thing about kefir is that it does not require a manufacturing line in order to
be produced. Grains can be simply thrown in with a batch of milk for ripening to
begin. The mixture then requires a cool, dark place to live and grow, with periodic
unsettling to prevent clumping (Caucasus inhabitants began storing the concoction
in animal-skin satchels on the back of doors – every time someone entered the room
the mixture would get lightly shaken). After about 24 hours the yeast cultures in the
grains have multiplied and devoured most of the milk sugars, and the final product is
then ready for human consumption.
Nothing compares to a person’s first encounter with kefir. The smooth, uniform
consistency rolls over the tongue in a manner akin to liquefied yogurt. The sharp, tart
pungency of unsweetened yogurt is there too, but there is also a slight hint of
effervescence, something most users will have previously associated only with
mineral waters, soda or beer. Kefir also comes with a subtle aroma of yeast, and
depending on the type of milk and ripening conditions, ethanol content can reach up
to two or three percent – about on par with a decent lager – although you can expect
around 0.8 to one per cent for a typical day-old preparation. This can bring out a tiny
edge of alcohol in the kefir’s flavour.
E
Although it has prevailed largely as a fermented milk drink, over the years kefir has
acquired a number of other uses. Many bakers use it instead of starter yeast in the
preparation of sourdough, and the tangy flavour also makes kefir an ideal buttermilk
substitute in pancakes. Kefir also accompanies sour cream as one of the main
ingredients in cold beetroot soup and can be used in lieu of regular cow’s milk on
granola or cereal. As a way to keep their digestive systems fine-tuned, athletes
sometimes combine kefir with yoghurt in protein shakes.
Associated for centuries with pictures of Slavic babushkas clutching a shawl in one
hand and a cup of kefir in the other, the unassuming beverage has become a minor
celebrity of the nascent health food movement in the contemporary West. Every day,
more studies pour out supporting the benefits of a diet high in probiotics1. This trend
toward consuming probiotics has engulfed the leisure classes in these countries to
the point that it is poised to become, according to some commentators, “the next
multivitamin”. These days the word kefir is consequently more likely to bring to mind
glamorous, yoga mat-toting women from Los Angeles than austere visions of
blustery Eastern Europe.
Kefir’s rise in popularity has encouraged producers to take short cuts or alter the
production process. Some home users have omitted the ripening and culturation
process while commercial dealers often add thickeners, stabilisers and sweeteners.
But the beauty of kefir is that, at its healthiest and tastiest, it is a remarkably
affordable, uncluttered process, as any accidental invention is bound to be. All that is
necessary are some grains, milk and a little bit of patience. A return to the
unadulterated kefir-making of old is in everyone’s interest.
