VIETNAMESE

COOKERY
by
Jill Nhu Huong Miller

HERE, FOR THE FIRST TIME in English, is an absolutely authentic, definitive, and most
distinctive collection of Vietnamese recipes.
Among the somewhat unusual and fascinating ingredients (available most
anywhere) are such succulents as bamboo shoots, Chinese cabbage, mushrooms,
water chestnuts, bean sprouts, coconut, pineapple, shrimp, and an interesting
vermicelli called "bean threads" or "long rice." And when it comes to dried lily
flowers, Chinese parsley, fresh mint leaves, and citronella root, the author tells you
what to substitute if you do not have them, or simply to leave them out. All this is
explained in a comprehensive ten-page glossary of special oriental foodstuff.
The basic ingredients, of course, are pork, chicken, beef, and everyday vegeta-
bles, but cooked and seasoned with a distinctive, pleasant, not-too-far-out flavor.
Not until one tastes, for example, beef stew cooked with stick cinnamon, can one
appreciate how good it is. Equally tasty is the caramelized pork, the stuffed and
fried cucumbers, banana cake with cashews, and almond cookies second to none.
In order to preserve the texture, the taste, and the natural color of foods, par-
ticularly vegetables, many of these recipes call for sauteing them momentarily over
sizzling hot heat.
The most distinctive element in Vietnamese cookery, however, is the extensive
use of Nuoc Mam Sauce for seasoning, similar to the use made of soy sauce in
Japanese and Chinese cookery. Like soy, it is very salty, but unlike soy it enhances
and blends so subtly with other flavors that one can barely detect its presence and
certainly would never suspect its being an extract of pickled fish. Instructions are
given on how to mix it and where to obtain the makings.
Another distinctive feature of Vietnamese recipes, and particularly those in this
book, is their adaptability to suit individual preferences. Also noteworthy through-
out this book are the unusually detailed step-by-step instructions given by the
author, and her constant concern over the elimination of disagreeable food odors.
The author, Jill Nhu Huong Miller, a native of Vietnam who has lived in all
parts of the country, has had extensive experience in the fields of nursing, home
economics, and dietetics. Presently she is serving the United States Armed Forces
in Hawaii as a language instructor, for which she has received a Certificate of
Achievement from Headquarters, 25th Infantry Division.
 VIETNAMESE
COOKERY

by
Jill Nhu Huong Miller

CHARLES E. TUTTLE COMPANY: PUBLISHERS

Rutland, Vermont
Tokyo, Japan
 CONTENTS
page
Foreword 7
Vietnamese Cooking 8
Equipment 9
Ingredients 11

BASIC RECIPES 21
SOUPS 29
PORK MAIN DISHES 40
BEEF MAIN DISHES 57
SEAFOOD MAIN DISHES 66
CHICKEN & DUCK 77
SALADS 92
DESSERTS 97
HORS D'OEUVRES 105

Index 113
 To TERRY THOMPSON
without whose help
this book would not have been written
 FOREWORD
THE INITIAL IDEA for making the delicacies of Vietnamese cuisine available to the
English speaking world through the medium of a housewives' cookbook evolved
from many happy meals shared by myself and Mrs. Bernice Chang of Honolulu.
Following her suggestion, I began to try to recall many of the tasty dishes of my
homeland, and attempted to make a systematic record of them in the fond hope
that they would someday be compiled, edited, and published for the benefit of
others who wish to explore the great variety of Southeast Asian cooking. Without
this original stimulus and continued encouragement of Mrs. Chang, the recipes of
this book would probably have remained in my own kitchen, and shared only with
my cherished guests.
Translating the cook's activities in the kitchen into the printed word is a major
obstacle which anyone who tries to write a cook book must ultimately face. For the
cook, the art in the kitchen usually comes much easier than the craft of describing
her work on paper. For a Vietnamese to attempt this in English was almost enough
to discourage the whole idea. Had it not been for the patience, dedication, and un-
stinted efforts of Mrs. Terry Thompson, this major obstacle may never have been
overcome. Only through her careful observations in the kitchen, notations, editing,
and typing of the manuscript have I been able to transmit my experiences in Viet-
namese cookery to the English-speaking reader. With Terry, I have been privileged
to share personally many of the dishes which are described in this book. It is only
through her that I am now able to share them with you.
JILL NHU HUONG MILLER

7
 VIETNAMESE COOKING
VIETNAMESE COOKING IS EASY. "Especially for Vietnamese housewives," you say?
Nonsense. It can also be easy for non-Vietnamese housewives, and even for non-
housewives. This book has fairly detailed instructions, with the idea that even a
beginning cook (or one who has never even eaten oriental food) will be able to use
it to make some typical, simple Vietnamese dishes. There are more complicated
recipes, too, for the more experienced or more adventurous cook.
Vietnamese food has its own special character, as do most regional foods.
Though it has been much influenced by Chinese cooking through many centuries,
it still retains its own individuality. Chinese and Japanese food, especially, are
often darker in color because of the extensive use of soy sauce for seasoning. Since
fish sauce is used for seasoning in Vietnam, the food retains more of its natural
color.
Indian, Malay, and French cooking have also had some slight influence on Viet-
namese regional recipes, and Buddhist vegetarian cookery has been well-known
there for a long time. The combination makes for an endless variety of dishes, and
this book barely scratches the surface.
Before beginning to cook, read through the recipe to be sure you have all the
ingredients (or substitutes). Many of the special ingredients may be omitted, and
though the dish will be different, it will not necessarily be ruined. In each such case
the ingredient is marked "optional." A few typical dishes that will probably be
difficult to duplicate outside Vietnam have been included for interest.
Most of these recipes may be prepared with ingredients found fairly easily in
any metropolitan area. The major ingredient appearing in almost every recipe, that
will not be found on every supermarket shelf, is the fish sauce (Vietnamese nuoc
mam). That, however, will be found on any Chinese or Philippine grocer's shelf and
can be ordered by any gourmet shop. It is not particularly expensive.
Many of the more exotic ingredients may be found in any Chinese or other
oriental grocery store, and many may be ordered from a Chinese grocer in a near-
by metropolitan area if your town doesn't have one. Look for a Chinese restaurant
and ask where to buy Chinese groceries in your area. Often the Chinese grocer will
have a tiny, not well-advertised shop. Those who patronize him know where he is
and he isn't in competition with the supermarket—he usually sells just those special
ingredients not sold by other stores in the area. If you have your list in hand, he can
bring out what you need. Part of the fun of trying some of these recipes is trying to
track down some of the ingredients!
Happy cooking!
8
 EQUIPMENT
ALMOST NO SPECIAL EQUIPMENT is needed for use with this cookbook. However,
specific types of pans are better than others and a short description of the meaning
of terms used in these recipes should be of use to the cook.
Mortar and Pestle: This is the only rather specialized equipment needed for
Vietnamese cookery. Vietnamese women prefer to crush things; this brings out the
flavor more than chopping or grinding. However, if you do not have a mortar and
pestle and can't get one, you may chop or grind things. The texture and flavor will
be different, but not offensively different. (Two exceptions: SHRIMP PASTE page 25
and FANCY BARBECUED PORK ON SKEWERS, page 42, must be pounded.)
To properly use a mortar and pestle, the pestle should be heavy enough to do
a lot of the work for you. Wooden pestles are lighter in weight and easier to lift,
but it takes more muscle power to do a proper job. Vietnamese pestles are nor-
mally made of stone, and the mortar is also of stone.
If you have a mortar and pestle, or can get one, try crushing things in small quan-
tities to begin with, until you get the rhythm. Use your free hand to push things
back down in the mortar, taking care not to smash any fingers.

Knives: Since much slicing and chopping is an essential part of Vietnamese cook-
ing, good sharp knives are important. Especially useful is what is often called a
French knife. It is about a foot long, including the handle, and the blade is usually
about 3 inches wide at the end near the handle. It has a sharp point. This knife may
be used for chopping, with a sort of rocking motion; it is good for slicing; and it
may also be used for chopping through chicken and other light bones. It is a very
versatile knife, though it may take a little practice to become accustomed to it.
Stainless steel knives do not usually have as sharp an edge and are more difficult
to sharpen. A plain steel knife, which will probably rust and begin to look rather
disreputable, but may be cleaned easily with ordinary pot scrubbers, is easy to
sharpen and not expensive to replace. It is usually heavier, too, which means it is
easier to use for chopping.
Smaller paring knives are also useful but no special kind is necessary.
Skillets: An iron skillet is always good for the type of cooking described in this
book. It is heavy, does not scorch easily, and is easy to keep clean. Any good,
heavy skillet will do. "Large" means a skillet larger than 10 inches across. A "me-
dium" skillet is 8 to 10 inches across. Use what you have, and experiment to see
which ones work best for you.
9
 Pots: There are a few recipes in this book calling for a very large soup pot. Any
type of pot will do, since it is the size that is most important. Other pots and pans
may be of any type. New and special varieties are not necessary. Sometimes a 2-
quart or 3-quart pot may be specified—just be sure you use one at least that big, or
things will boil over. A larger pot may always be used, though if one too large for
the job is used the liquid may cook away too fast.
Steamer: If you have a steamer, use it. If not, a substitute may be found. One
type of substitute is a roasting pan with a cake rack (if the roaster does not have a
rack). A large skillet, with a rack and a lid, may also be used. The major require-
ment for a steamer is that the food being steamed be surrounded by steam, under a
cover that fits.
If a steamer is used, put several cups (depending on the size of the steamer) of
water in the bottom section and bring to a boil on high heat. The top section will
have holes in the bottom, and the food is either put directly on the bottom, or in a
heat resistant bowl or pan, or wrapped in cloth, leaves, or aluminum foil. Such
instructions are contained in the individual recipes. When the water in the bottom
section is boiling, the top section with the food is set into place, the cover is put on,
and the steaming begins. Be sure enough water remains in the bottom of the steamer
so that there is plenty of steam.

10
 INGREDIENTS
SINCE MANY OF THE INGREDIENTS used in ordinary Vietnamese cooking will seem
exotic to the non-oriental cook, it seemed wise to include the following discussion
of many of the ingredients. In many cases there are simple substitutes, and when an
ingredient is seldom found outside Vietnam the substitute is usually used in the
recipe. In many cases the more exotic ingredients may simply be omitted if not
available.

alum: Used to make fruit firm when candying, so the fruit will not get mushy or
disintegrate. Follow instructions in recipe.
bamboo shoots: Although fresh bamboo shoots are readily available in Vietnam,
canned Chinese bamboo shoots are very good. Japanese canned bamboo shoots
have a different flavor, intended for Japanese foods, and do not blend well with
Vietnamese foods. Because of the shape of the shoot, slices will be quite irregular.
Substitute: none.
bamboo shoots, dried: In Vietnam fresh bamboo shoots are available most of the
year. Dried bamboo shoots are usually sun dried, by the housewife, for home use
during the short season when fresh ones are not available. The dried bamboo
shoots that are found in oriental groceries outside the orient are usually kiln dried
for much longer storage and consequently must be soaked and cooked for a longer
period. Substitute: fresh or canned bamboo shoots may be substituted for dried
ones in any recipe. The flavor will be slightly different.
banana: Bananas are plentiful, in numerous varieties, in Vietnam. The recipes using
bananas in this book are for the most ordinary bananas that are available through-
out the world.
banana leaf: Banana leaves are often used to wrap foods for steaming, because of
the enormous size, the firm texture that does not allow the leaf to disintegrate dur-
ing cooking, and the lack of distinctive flavor to transfer to the food being cooked.
Substitutes: ti leaf is a good substitute, but is not much more available than banana
leaves in many parts of the world. A more readily available substitute is a close-
woven cloth, such as a tea-towel, or several layers of cheesecloth, usually oiled.
beans, green: In Vietnamese quick-fried foods, green beans are delicious if used
fresh. Frozen beans are much softer when cooked, and do not have the slightly
crunchy texture of the fresh beans. If you prefer softer beans, by all means use
frozen ones. Canned green beans may also be used, but the flavor is less desirable
11
and the texture will be soft instead of crunchy. Green beans are usually sliced in
what is known in English as "French cut"—which might also be called "Vietnamese
cut"!
bean curd, also known as dofu in some Chinese dialects and tofu in Japanese: This is
a curd made from the soy bean. It is normally made fresh every day, and keeps only
a few days under refrigeration. It has very little flavor of its own, but absorbs the
flavor of foods it is cooked with. It is sometimes available canned, and will be
found in either Japanese or Chinese groceries. Substitute: none. Omit if not avail-
able, and not a part of the title of the recipe.
bean sauce: Chinese bean sauce is an ingredient of one or two recipes in this book.
It comes in a can, and can be ordered from a specialty grocer if not found any
other place. Normally sold in all Chinese groceries. Has a rather strong, distinctive
flavor. Substitute: none. May usually be omitted.
bean sprouts: These are produced by immersing dried beans of a special variety in
water. The water temperature is controlled so that the beans put out sprouts just as
they would if planted. They are particularly popular in the orient. The flavor is
delicate, though distinctive (pleasantly so), and the texture is tender but crunchy.
They may be used to good effect in a tossed salad, just as they come or blanched
for a minute or so. To keep in the refrigerator, put into a container and cover with
cool water. Change the water every couple of days and they will remain fresh-
tasting about a week. Do not cover. Canned bean sprouts are also available. These
should be drained and rinsed thoroughly under cool running water before use.
Substitute: none. May be omitted from many of the recipes.

bean thread, often called "long rice": This resembles vermicelli in shape, but the
texture is quite different and unlike any other type of noodle or pasta. It is almost
crunchy after being soaked in water. It looks much like strings of cellophane. It is
normally sold in 2-ounce packages, tied with string and covered with cellophane.
Must be soaked in warm water before using. Substitute: none. May often simply be
omitted.
bitter melon: A small melon, with very bumpy surface much like some decorative
varieties of gourd or squash. It is pale green and has a bitter flavor. Much used in
the orient, it should not be used as the main part of a meal—a little goes a long
way, but it does make a pleasing contrast with an otherwise bland meal. Substitute:
none.
borax: It took quite a search to discover the English translation of this item, which
was finally furnished by Mr. Nguyen van Hung, an Architecture student at the
University of Washington. It is used in rinsing shrimp, to remove the fishy odor,
help clean it, and to make the meat firmer. The shrimp must be thoroughly washed
after soaking a few minutes in a mild borax solution.
cabbage: When "cabbage" is specified in one of these recipes, ordinary white head
cabbage is meant. It may be substituted for Chinese cabbage, but the flavor will be
12
different. It is usually cooked only a short time to avoid the unpleasant odor that
develops from long contact with heat.
cabbage, Chinese, also known as bok choy: Chinese cabbage has become fairly
popular in the United States in recent years as a salad vegetable. It is also delicious
when cooked for a short time with fresh pork or other delicacies. This type of cab-
bage is leafy, not headed, long in shape, and has crinkled edges on the leaves. The
stem portion is white, and the leaves are whitish to pale green. Substitute: ordinary
head cabbage may be substituted, with a slight change in flavor.
cabbage, mustard, also called kai choy: Mustard cabbage is not usually available in
places without a large oriental population. It is similar to Chinese cabbage, except
the stem portion of the leaf is green instead of white. Substitute: young turnip
greens, including tiny young turnips. The flavor will be different, but good.
chili pepper: The small red (or green) hot pepper is used in many ways in Southeast
Asia. It may be added in any desired quantity, when specified. This collection does
not include very many of the really hot dishes of Vietnam. It is usually crushed,
because that brings out the flavor better. It may be served as a side dish with almost
any Vietnamese food.
Chinese cabbage, see cabbage, Chinese
Chinese parsley: A pungent herb, used fresh as a garnish in many Vietnamese
dishes. It has a distinctly different flavor, so there is no real substitute, though ordi-
nary parsley may be eaten instead. It should be used in moderation, with extra
amounts offered for individual taste, since a few people are not fond of the flavor
while others like a lot of it. May be omitted, if not available.
Chinese peas: This delicacy is widely used in the orient. The pea pod is served
whole, before the peas have begun to mature while it is still very sweet and tender.
The shape is similar to the pod of a lima bean or a green pea, but it is extremely
flat and about ½ inch wide. Some large grocers now have packages of frozen
Chinese peas. Substitute: French cut green beans. Fresh beans, cut in the French
fashion, are sweeter and better, but frozen ones are acceptable.
Chinese sausage: A small sausage, rather sweet, made of seasoned pork and pork
fat. It may be steamed on top of rice, then sliced into angled rounds, or it may be
sliced and fried or added to numerous other dishes. Since it is dried, it may be
shipped and refrigerated, so it may be possible to order it if it is not locally avail-
able. There are manufacturers both in Canada and in the United States. Substitute:
mild, sweetish sausage may be substituted, but hot or strong-flavored sausages will
give an entirely different effect. There is no real equivalent; as with all sausages, the
unique combination of flavors is inherent.
Chinese winter melon, see winter melon
Chinese yam, also called "chop suey yam": This is a starchy root vegetable, light
brown, with a rather flattened, fat, and scalloped shape. Substitute: kohlrabi.
13
cinnamon: Stick cinnamon is used frequently in Vietnamese stew or soup. It has a
different effect from powdered cinnamon, which may be substituted in a pinch, ^
tsp. powdered cinnamon for ½ a stick of cinnamon.
citronella root, also known as "lemon grass": Fresh citronella is readily available in
Vietnam and in Hawaii, though it may not be available outside other metropolitan
areas unless grown in the home garden. It is an attractive, foot-high, grasslike
plant that clumps and multiplies rapidly. The edible portion is the lower part of the
stem, before the grasslike leaf begins. When sliced in thin rounds it is similar in
shape to the white portion of a green onion, though much firmer in texture and
very different in flavor. It has a pungent, pleasant odor, and a very distinctive
flavor, usually well liked by foreigners as well as by Vietnamese. Also known as
"lemon grass" in some parts of Asia, it is sometimes available in powdered form in
metropolitan areas, usually imported from Holland (a result of Indonesian in-
fluence). Some gourmet shops will try to order the powdered lemon grass for you.
Substitute: 3 thin slices of fresh ginger root, or onion, if so specified in the recipe.
For most recipes in this book, it may simply be omitted if not a part of the name of
the dish.

coconut, dried: Dried shredded, bakers' coconut may often be substituted for fresh
coconut in these recipes, particularly in the desserts. In some of the other recipes
it is not such a satisfactory substitute because it has been sweetened and adds a
sweet flavor that does not combine well with the other ingredients.

coconut, fresh: There are plenty of fresh coconuts in Vietnam, and many recipes for
Vietnamese dishes include coconut milk or coconut water or grated (or shredded)
fresh coconut. Only a sampling of these recipes is included in this book, since
fresh coconuts are not so available outside tropical areas.
In buying fresh coconut, be sure there is still plenty of water inside: shake it and
listen. If you are able to get a really fresh coconut, you are faced with removing the
thick, football-shaped (and sized) outer husk, first. This is best done with an ordi-
nary garden pick. Push one end of the pick firmly into the ground, leaving the
pointed end up. Push the side of the coconut husk against the point, pulling away
sideways at the same time. Continue all the way around until the coconut is husked.
The outer husk is filled with a type of fiber which is used in many parts of the world
to make a very sturdy rope or string.
Then comes the opening of the inner shell—the part that is most often seen out-
side tropical and semitropical areas. There are three "eyes" near one end of the
coconut. If you take a small flat stone, or a small hammer, and tap the coconut
about its middle, just under the eyes, it will crack. Continue tapping around the
middle, gently but firmly, and it will break cleanly in half. The break is not from
point to point, but around the middle.
Now to get at the meat. A heavy screwdriver is the best implement for this. A
sharp-pointed knife is not so good—the point often breaks off and it simply does
not work as well. The meat will have a brown skin that comes off the shell. This
should be peeled away before using the meat. The juice that is in the middle of the
14
coconut is not, contrary to popular misconception, the coconut milk. It is juice, or
water, discussed below.
coconut juice, or coconut water: Many people think the liquid inside the fresh coco-
nut is the coconut milk referred to in these recipes. Actually, the liquid rattling
around inside the coconut is coconut juice or coconut water, and is sometimes used
in recipes but more often is used as a nourishing cool drink, just as it comes from
the coconut. One famous recipe using the juice of green coconuts is included. Sub-
stitute: none.
coconut milk: The "milk" of a coconut is made by grating fresh coconut very fine,
then squeezing the grated meat. The liquid that runs out is white and milky looking,
and is used in many tropical countries as a basic cooking ingredient or sauce. For
instructions on making coconut milk, see page 26. Substitute: heavy cream, about
3 tablespoons cream for ½ cup coconut milk, since the cream is much oilier.
cornstarch: Used in many of these recipes, cornstarch slightly thickens juice or
soup. Flour may be substituted in an emergency, but the texture, flavor and total
effect will be different.
dried foods: see the specific name, e.g., mushrooms, lilyflowers,shrimp, etc.
eggplant: There is a type of eggplant shaped more like a cucumber except longer
and thinner. This, if available, is preferred for Vietnamese recipes. The more com-
mon, fat and round eggplant is an acceptable substitute. The color of both varieties
is the same.
fish sauce, also known as "fish's gravy," the English name used on bottled Chinese
fish sauce; and as patis, the Philippine version of the same sauce. This fish sauce is
the Vietnamese equivalent of salt, or of soy sauce in many other oriental recipes.
It is almost clear, with a slight yellowish tint, and has a veryfishyodor. When used
in moderation, as in these recipes, it adds a subtle and very agreeable bit of flavor.
The Vietnamesefishsauce has received very bad publicity in recent years because
of the wide use of poor qualityfishsauce in Vietnam during the extended period of
war and turmoil. Buy good quality fish sauce, which is quite a different thing.
Fish sauce is made by packing fresh fish in barrels, in layers alternating with
layers of salt, and allowing the fish and salt to ferment. The fermented, very salty,
sauce is then drained off, processed and bottled. Second rate sauce is made by
pressing the fish after the first quality sauce has been drained off. Even poorer
quality sauce is made by adding water and pressing. Buy the best! It is available at
any Chinese grocer, since it is also widely used in some types of Chinese cooking.
It may also be available in places where Philippine foods are sold. Any gourmet
shop should be able to order it easily.
Substitute: none. Fish sauce is what makes Vietnamese food uniquely Vietnamese.
Additional salt may be added, if it is absolutely unavailable, but the dish will be
only a substitute for Vietnamese cookery.
flour: Several varieties offlourare used in the recipes in this book, and unless other-
15
wise specified regular wheat flour is called simply "flour." Rice flour and glutinous
rice flour are ingredients in several of the hors d'oeuvre and dessert recipes, and
will be readily available in almost any oriental grocery and may be found in many
specialty shops. Potato flour has been found to be a very acceptable substitute for
manioc (tapioca) flour, which is used in Vietnam, so has been included in the rec-
ipes which originally used manioc flour.
ginger root: Fresh ginger root is a well-known part of all oriental cookery. It is used
for flavor, for calming down the slightly objectionable odor of boiling chicken, for
an aid to the digestion—it has many uses that are only touched upon in this book.
Powdered ginger is not a substitute. If fresh ginger root is not available, it can be
omitted or (if specified in the particular recipe) green onion may sometimes be
substituted. Dried whole ginger root, incidentally, is now quite generally available
and can be reconstituted by soaking in warm water to cover for several hours
or overnight.

glutinous rice: see rice, glutinous

green onion: see onion
leeks: A leek is similar in shape to a green onion, except it is several times larger
and stronger in flavor. Pickled leeks, the only type used in these recipes, may be
found in specialty shops and will be available from almost any oriental grocer.
Substitute: pickled onions that are not too sweet.
lemon grass, see citronella root
lily flowers, dried: These flowers are usually sun dried in the orient. Those exported
for sale in oriental groceries are usually kiln dried. The flower looks like a pale
brown strip of root, or of leather, from 3 to 4 inches long. It must be soaked in
warm water 10 to 15 minutes to soften, then the hard stem-end should be pinched
off and discarded. In some recipes the flowers will be chopped, but often you will
be told to tie each flower in a knot. The knot makes a slight crunch when eaten,
giving variation to the texture of the dish. The flavor is very mild and pleasant.
Substitute: none. May be omitted without serious results, unless "lily flowers"
occurs in the name of the dish.
long rice, see bean thread and noodles (py mei fun)
look fun, see noodles, look fun
lotus root: This oriental staple food is a mild-flavored root vegetable related to the
tubers. It is long and rather fat, about the size of a toy baseball bat or smaller, with
a light, brownish-white color. It has holes running from top to bottom inside, so
that when it is sliced in rounds it looks something like Swiss cheese. Only one rec-
ipe using lotus root is included in this book. Substitute: none.
mint: Fresh mint leaves may be used as a garnish with most Vietnamese foods, or
as a side dish or salad with leaf lettuce and Chinese parsley. In Vietnam there are
16
several varieties of mint, but any fresh mint adds a sparkle to the meal. Especially
good in a green tossed salad.
monosodium glutamate: Often called "taste powder," and also sold under the Japa-
nese name of Aji-no-moto, this condiment is used sparingly in some of the recipes.
mushrooms, dried: Dried mushrooms have quite a different taste from fresh ones,
and are used in much oriental cookery. This makes them easily available from
specialty shops and oriental groceries. The ordinary dried mushrooms are fairly
large, from 2 to 4 or more inches across. There are also what are sometimes called
"perfumed mushrooms" which are not used in these recipes.
Dried mushrooms must be soaked for 10 minutes or so in warm water before
using. The hard part of the stem is then cut away, and is often discarded though it
may be added to long-cooking soup or stew for flavor. Since the size varies con-
siderably, the quantity called for in these recipes is only approximate. Because
mushrooms have a delicate flavor, the quantity may be varied considerably with
no disservice to the dish. And since the flavor is pleasant, and mushrooms have
little caloric value, dieters might consider their use for variety. Substitute: fresh
mushrooms may be substituted, though the flavor and texture is quite different.
May be omitted, unless "mushroom" is a part of the name of the recipe.
mushrooms, fresh: When fresh mushrooms are called for, the best type to use is the
large, brown variety. The smaller button mushrooms may be substituted, and may
be specified in some recipes. In some recipes canned button mushrooms may be
substituted. Japanese canned mushrooms have the wrong flavor, one meant for
combination with Japanese seasonings, and should not be used in these recipes.
mushrooms, straw: "Straw" mushrooms are a delicacy usually found only in Chi-
nese groceries. Very delicate flavor, slightly larger than button mushrooms. Sub-
stitute: fresh (not canned) button mushrooms.
ngun si fun, see noodles
no mai, see rice, glutinous
noodles, look fun (the Chinese name): These are rice noodles, and in places with a
large Chinese population you may be able to find the fresh ones. If so, by all means
try them. In fact, try them fresh, warmed in a steamer and sliced in half-inch wide
strips, dipped in Nuoc MAM SAUCE (page 23), with a little lettuce or other green
salad, Delicious! The substitution of dried noodles for fresh ones is similar to the
substitution of powdered milk for fresh milk. Good, but not the same.
These noodles are available dried, in packages, but be careful about the instruc-
tions printed on the package. Some manufacturers print poor or wrong instruc-
tions ! Soak the dried noodles at least two hours, in warm water to cover. Then boil
about 5 minutes, or until tender all the way through. Drain, slice into ½2 or ¼ inch
strips or as directed in the recipe. If boiled too long, the noodles will disintegrate.
Substitute: wide egg, wheat, or other noodles. The flavor will be different, but the
idea will be similar.
17
noodles, py meifun (or ngun si fun) (Chinese rice sticks): These are very fine, ex-
tremely delicate and tender rice noodles. They are packed in thumb-sized bundles
each tied with string. After soaking for a few minutes, the string may be untied
gently. Then soak an additional 15 minutes or so. Bring just to the boiling point and
drain immediately. These noodles disintegrate easily into rice-grain sized pieces.
Available at any Chinese grocery. Substitute: none.
noodles, sha ho fun (Chinese): Follow the instructions given under noodles, look
fun.
noodles, somen (Japanese name): A type of Japanese wheat noodles, very thin and
fine. Substitute: fine vermicelli.
onion: Use either white or yellow bulb-shaped cooking onions when "onion" is
called for. May sometimes be substituted for green onion or for shallot, but with
slightly changed flavor.
onion, green: Green onion is used in many of these recipes. Use part of the green
fop portion, too, for color as well as flavor. The green top is often used when boil-
ing chicken, shrimp or pork to counteract the slightly offensive odor. Substitute:
white or yellow cooking onion, or shallots, with a slight change in flavor.
papaya: A favorite fruit in most tropical areas, there are many varieties in Vietnam.
It is good served ripe, with a wedge of lemon or lime. When green, it is very firm
and a bright dark green in color. It turns gold as it ripens and begins to get slightly
less firm. Substitute: none.
peanuts: Unless otherwise specified, regular salted, roasted peanuts may be used in
these recipes. Chopped peanuts are often used as a garnish. If chopped, be sure to
use the "dust*' also, since much of the good flavor and odor is there.
pineapple: Fresh pineapple is called for in several of these recipes, and is often used
in cooking as a vegetable in Vietnam. As a result, sweetened canned pineapple is
not a very satisfactory substitute. Unsweetened canned pineapple is available in
some specialty shops, and may be substituted.
py meifun, see noodles
rice: The usual long-grain rice is not used too often in the orient—it is considered
quite a luxury. It also has less flavor, because it has been refined so much. If you
can shop at an oriental grocery, ask for ordinary rice or short-grain rice—it is much
shorter in price, usually, too! Much of it is grown in California. Long grain rice
may be used, but it is harder to eat with chopsticks. Instant rice is not really ac-
ceptable.
rice, glutinous, also called no mai: This is a special kind of rice, used in very special
dishes. It is available in oriental groceries. Substitute: none.
rice, roasted: Toast regular rice in a small covered skillet on top of the stove, shak-
ing constantly, until dark brown, being careful not to burn it. Maybe stored, but it
18
is only used in one recipe in this book so just toast the small amount needed.
rice flour: There are several kinds of rice flour, most of which will be readily avail-
able at an oriental grocery and probably at many specialty shops. There are a few
recipes for hors d'oeuvres and desserts calling for rice flour and the specific type
will be described in the recipe. Substitute: none.
rice paper: A very special Vietnamese food, with no real substitute except perhaps
the Greek philo. It is a tissue-paper thin round sheet of dried rice paste, which is
sturdy enough to be used for wrapping things in a roll after it is dampened and
softened with water. It is very popular in Vietnam, but is not ordinarily available
outside that country. Substitute: none. Leaf lettuce or cabbage leaves can be used
in some cases as wrappers, but the flavor and texture will not be the same.

rice wine: Use Chinese rice wine, dry sherry or dry sauterne. Rum or brandy in
smaller quantity may also be substituted. Japanese rice wine—sake—is too mild.
saffron: This is what gives the warm, golden color to curry. It is also used as a dye.
The root of the saffron plant is dried, and crushed just before using, in Vietnam.
Powdered saffron loses its strength easily, especially if exposed to light. Sometimes
the addition of a pinch or two of paprika will help give a warmer color. Saffron
also has a delicate flavor. Substitute: in some recipes, the substitution of curry
powder is recommended. Otherwise, omit if not available.

sausage, see Chinese sausage

sesame seeds: A real must as a garnish for many Vietnamese dishes, these tiny
seeds must be roasted and crushed a short time before using. To roast, use a small
pan with a cover; the seeds will jump like popcorn when they get hot, though they
don't puff up. Put over medium high heat and shake occasionally. Watch closely
to be sure they don't burn. When beginning to turn a light golden brown remove
from the heat and put in another container immediately to stop the roasting proc-
ess. Partially crush the seeds with a mortar and pestle to bring out the aroma and
flavor, just before using. A wonderful addition to tossed salads.

sha ho fun, see noodles

shallots: These are much used in Vietnamese cooking. When not available, sub-
stitute the white part of a green onion.

shrimp, dried: Tiny shrimp are kiln dried for use as a flavoring in many oriental
recipes. The smaller the shrimp, the greater the delicacy. When called for in this
book, they are always optional since non-oriental palates often find both the flavor
and the odor objectionable. If you want to try them, try a very small quantity
(smaller than called for in the recipe) at first. If you like them, add more! The
shrimp are usually soaked 10 minutes or more in warm water before being added
to the dish being cooked. Sometimes they are chopped after soaking. The soaking
water is often added to soups. Substitute: fresh shrimp; or a dash of monosodium
19
glutamate. The shrimp has the same effect as monosodium glutamate of heighten-
ing the flavor of other foods, as well as having a decided flavor of its own.
shrimp sauce (Chinese harm ha): To be found in oriental groceries; there is no real
substitute. May be omitted, unless specifically told not to omit in the recipe. It has
many of the same properties of dried shrimp. Substitute: a pinch of monosodium
glutamate and y2 teaspoon salt for each teaspoon of shrimp sauce, to heighten the
flavor, one of the reasons for using shrimp sauce.
somen, see noodles
soybean curd, see bean curd
squash, see kwa: Chinese squash, Substitute: zucchini squash.
squid: A type of seafood, related to octopus, with small tentacles. Substitute: none.
star fruit also called star apple or carambole: A kind of fruit, sometimes found as
an ornamental plant in private gardens. When sliced across, the fruit has the shape
of a star. Substitute: no real substitute, although in PORK-RIND SALAD (page 95),
a lime-soaked cucumber substitute is given.
ti leaf (pronounced "tea"): Sometimes used to wrap foods or to line the top of the
steamer. Substitute: Banana leaf, or oiled, firmly woven cloth, such as a tea towel.
tomato: Unless being used as a showpiece, as in STUFFED TOMATOES page 51, lower
grade, cheaper cooking tomatoes may be used. If fresh tomatoes are out of season,
well-drained canned tomatoes may be substituted with the usual deterioration of
flavor.
tomato paste: Use Spanish style tomato paste, if available. The seasoning is more
compatible with Vietnamese seasonings than is the Italian style.
tree fungus, dried: Dried tree fungus resembles thin, black dried mushrooms. They
must be soaked in hot water, from 15 minutes to an hour, to be softened (depend-
ing on the recipe). Any black specks or stem portions, where the fungus grew on
the tree, should be cut away. This staple can usually be found at any Chinese gro-
cery, and if not available may be omitted without disaster to the recipe unless it is
specifically a part of the name of the dish. It has little flavor, but a very unusual
crisp, chewy texture that makes a pleasant contrast.
water chestnuts: A root vegetable, with a very crisp texture, and a very mild,
slightly sweet flavor. Fresh water chestnuts (about the size of walnuts) must be
peeled before using; canned ones may be used direct from the can. Delicious when
added to a tossed salad. Substitute: none. Canned water chestnuts are widely dis-
tributed now.
wine, see rice wine
winter melon: A very tender-meated variety of gourd or squash. Substitute: butter-
nut squash. Use a smaller quantity and cook 1 or 2 minutes longer.
yam, see Chinese yam
20
 BASIC RECIPES
THERE ARE A FEW recipes that do not fit into any of the other chapters and that
are basic to Vietnamese cooking. These have been gathered into this chapter.

COOKED RICE Four servings

If you have an automatic, electric rice cooker, follow the simple directions that
come with it. If you do not have one, and have never learned to cook rice in the
oriental way, be sure to try this recipe. It is quick and very simple. Notice that there
is no salt or other seasoning added. When cooked this way, the rice has a gentle but
very nice flavor of its own. In the orient, rice is not normally eaten alone, but has
something put on top of it. The things you serve with it, usually placed on top of the
rice in a rice bowl for each individual, will give the rice all the seasoning it needs.
Minute rice is in a different category; don't bother to try it with this recipe.
Heavy 4-qt. pot with lid Wash the rice 2 or 3 times in cool tap water, changing the
2 cups rice water each time and rubbing gently between the hands. The
1½cupscoolwater last water should be fairly clear. This will remove much of the
starch covering the outside of the rice and will keep it from
being too sticky. If highly refined rice is used it will need less
rinsing and rubbing. Put the rice in a heavy pot and add water.
Cover the pot and place on high heat until it boils. Watch care-
fully to be sure it doesn't boil over. Cook, covered, over high
heat about 5 minutes. Lift the lid, and if you can't see much,
or any, water over the top of the rice, and little holes appear in
in the surface, remove it from the heat. Leave the high heat
turned on, so it will be really hot when you return the rice to
the burner. Drain the remaining water off the rice, and return
it to the burner. Cover, and turn heat to the lowest setting. Let
the rice sit on the heat, covered, from 20 to 30 minutes. Resist
the temptation to uncover it and peek—that lets the steam
escape and the rice may end up being too hard. Do not stir at
all after it begins to cook, or it will probably get mushy.
The rice should be soft, but firm, and the grains should stick
together enough to be picked up comfortably with chopsticks.
Western-style cooked rice, with each grain fluffy and deter-
minedly separate, is very hard to eat with chopsticks.
If you find that the rice in the very botton is slightly stuck to
the pot, and slightly hard, cherish it! This is a delicacy. Eat it
with any juice from meat dishes, etc. Vietnamese children beg
for it.
21
POT ROASTED RICE Four servings
This recipe for rice results in a true delicacy, the Vietnamese version of a type of
rice cooked in many parts of Asia and the Near East. The Vietnamese often use
pork fat or cooking oil instead of butter. Butter gives a delicate flavor that is very
pleasant, but the other ways of cooking are also very good. This is good eaten
alone, or with Nuoc MAM SAUCE (page 23). It is usually cooked to accompany
TOMATO-FRIED CHICKEN (page 81), but you will find it is good with almost any
main dish. It is also the basic ingredient for a simple home-style meal of leftovers
as described in the recipe on page 85 for MANY-COLORED CHICKEN FRIED RICE.
2 cups rice Wash the rice thoroughly, then drain in a strainer or colander
until almost completely dry again.
2 tbsp. butter (or pork Melt the butter in the skillet on medium heat. Add rice and
fat or cooking oil) saute, stirring gently with a spatula or a spoon, for about 15
Heavy skillet minutes on medium or medium high heat. The rice will begin
to change color, the individual grains becoming whiter and
more opaque and the panful of rice beginning to take on a
faint golden tinge from a distance. Some grains of rice will
begin to turn a golden brown around the edges.
1¾ cups hot water Pour the rice into the heavy pot, and add about 1¾ cups
Heavy pot with lid water. The water should cover the rice completely, and stand
above the level of the rice about ¼ inch. Cover the pot, turn
on high heat. If it boils over, remove from the heat; your pot
is not big enough or not heavy enough, or perhaps both! After
about 4 or 5 minutes, check the water, which should no longer
be visible. Stir rice with chopsticks, or a fork, gently, from the
bottom up, to fluff it. Do not stir very much. Cover the pot,
and turn the heat to low. Continue to cook about 15 or 20
minutes, or until done. The rice should be tender, but may still
be slightly chewy and will stick together enough to be eaten
with chopsticks. Individual tastes differ. Some people prefer
softer rice, and will need to add another ¼ cup of water.
Others prefer a dryer rice, and may add ¼ cup less water.
Keep warm until served. It may be steamed to reheat as a
leftover.
TO SERVE Serve as regular steamed or boiled rice, but plan to serve more
per person!

TEA
Making tea is easy. Any kind of tea is all right, but Chinese tea or jasmine tea is
preferable. Tea is not sweetened, creamed, or lemoned in Vietnam—unless "for-
eign" tea is being served. It is often served warm or cool, sometimes with ice, in
a large glass. When served hot, especially to a guest, a cup is used.
Teapot Use any size teapot. Experimentation will show you the size
Hot water you need. A deodorized coffee pot may be used for larger
quantities. Pour hot water into the pot and let it sit for a few
minutes, to warm the pot. Discard the water.
22
1 tbsp. tea leaves Put the tea leaves in the bottom of the pot. Pour the boiling
1 qt. boiling water water over the leaves and let it steep for about 5 minutes. Pour
out into glasses, and let the tea cool off in the glass until it is
easy to hold in the hand. Or if iced tea is preferred, add ice
when the tea has cooled off.
Additional tea may be made by pouring more boiling water
over the same tea leaves, letting it steep slightly longer, but do
not stir it.

NUOC MAM SAUCE

Nuoc mam is to Vietnamese cooking what salt is to cooking in the Western world.
And the prepared nuoc mam sauce is a basic seasoning for numerous dishes. The
quantity given here is small, enough for one or two meals for those who are just
experimenting. For those who like the flavor, all quantities may be multiplied by
four, or ten, or whatever number is desired. Don't believe all you hear about nuoc
mam—it is delicious when prepared correctly and used in moderation.
Mortar and pestle Seed the chili pepper. If you are not sure how hot you want
(Page 9) this, start with a very little. It is easy to add more. Peel the
3 ¼-inch pieces fresh garlic clove. Crush the pepper and garlic together in a mortar
hot chili pepper with the sugar. Peel and seed the lime and mash the pulp in
1 garlic clove the mortar with the garlic and pepper.
1 tsp. sugar
½ medium lime
1 tbsp. vinegar Add vinegar and water to pulp mixture and mix well.
1 tbsp. water
4 tbsp.fishsauce Add the fish sauce (plain nuoc mam) last. If it is added before
other ingredients the pieces of garlic, pepper, and lime pulp
will all sink to the bottom, and it is much preferable to have
them in suspension or floating on top.
This sauce can be used as soon as it is mixed, but it can also
be kept for two or three months in the refrigerator. Store in a
tightly closed bottle or jar.

BOILED PORK
Buy fresh ham for boiling, since it has less fat. A good lean piece is best. A green
onion will counteract the slight odor of boiling pork.
1 lb. lean pork Put the pork in the pot, and cover with water. Put on high
Water to cover heat.
Deep pot with lid
23
1 green onion Crush the green onion and add to the pork. Bring to a boil on
high heat, cover and reduce heat to medium low. Simmer until
done (about 20 or 30 minutes). Be careful not to overcook.
Drain off the broth and use for soup or in other recipes. Chill
the pork and use as directed in recipes. It can be sliced thin
and used as sandwich meat.
Note that no seasoning, other than the green onion, is used.

BOILED SHRIMP
Buy white shrimp, preferably fresh in the shell. If it is boiled after the shell is re-
moved it will curl and too much of the flavor will be lost. White shrimp has a much
gentler flavor than pink or red shrimp, and is especially preferable if the shrimp are
not very, very fresh.
Deep pot Crush the green onion and put in the pot with the water.
2 cups water Bring to a boil on high heat. The onion will diminish the strong
1 green onion fishy flavor and odor of the shrimp.
1 lb. (or less) fresh Put the shrimp into the boiling water, bring to a boil again and
(frozen) white boil for only 3 or 4 minutes. Do not defrost frozen shrimp
shrimp in the shell before using them.
Drain shrimp immediately. Reserve the juice for seasoning or
for soup. Cool the shrimp and use as directed in recipes.
Note that no seasoning, other than the green onion, is used.

BOILED CHICKEN
Use a frying chicken so the meat will be tender and juicy. Use a whole chicken, cut
it in half, or use ready-cut pieces.
1 frying chicken Wash the chicken, put in the pot and cover with water. Put on
Deep pot with cover on high heat.
Water to cover
1 green onion Crush the onion and add, with the fresh ginger root, to the
2 slices fresh ginger pot. These two things will counteract the odor of the chicken.
root (optional)
Bring to a boil on high heat, then reduce the heat to medium
low, cover, and simmer until the chicken is tender (about 20
minutes). Poke with a fork: if pink juice comes out, cook a
little longer. Be careful not to overcook or it will lose too much
flavor.
Drain off the broth and save for soup. Take the chicken off
the bones and use as directed in recipes.
Note that no salt or seasoning other than the onion and ginger
is used.
24
SHRIMP PASTE
This is the basic element for several recipes. It is made in a mortar of heavy marble,
stone or wood (page 9), and is pounded with a pestle of heavy wood or of stone.
A small size mortar is useful, but makes it difficult to mix the entire recipe at one
time. It is important to follow the steps exactly as given, in order that the flavor
will be the best.
1 lb. fresh (frozen) Dissolve the borax in water in a bowl. Shell and devein the
white shrimp shrimp and put into the bowl of water, mix well with the hands
2 cups cold water and let stand about 5 minutes. This cleans the shrimp, calms
1 tsp. borax the fishy odor, and makes the meat firmer. Remove shrimp to
a colander and rinse very very thoroughly under running cold
water, squeezing with the hands, for about three minutes. The
shrimp should be rinsed until it is no longer slippery to the
touch. Then squeeze the shrimp with the hands until it is no
longer drippy.
Mortar and pestle Place shrimp in the mortar and begin to pound with the pestle.
Pound until the shrimp begins to get soft and pulpy.
1 heaping tbsp. fresh Fat trimmed from pork chops, pork roast, etc., may be used.
pork fat (or 2 tbsp. Chill the fat, so it will be easy to slice. Cut into small pieces.
cooking oil) Add to the shrimp in the mortar and continue to pound until
it is mixed in.
1 lump (½-tsp. size) Put the lump of rock sugar in the mortar with the shrimp and
rock sugar pound and crush until it is thoroughly mixed. Do not sub-
stitute regular sugar—it is too sweet. If rock sugar is not avail-
able (try the druggist), omit.
1 shallot (or white Remove outer skin and slice in very thin rounds. Add to the
part of green onion) mixture in the mortar and pound well.
1 heaping tbsp. fresh Chill and slice this second tbsp. of pork fat. Add to the paste
pork fat (or 2 tbsp. in the mortar and pound well.
cooking oil)
Put egg white into mortar with paste and mix in well. Keep the
1 egg white yolk for use elsewhere.
Mix into the shrimp paste in the mortar, a small amount at
1 tbsp.fishsauce a time.
Sprinkle on top of the mixture in the mortar and mix in well.
Dash of black pepper
This is the basic shrimp paste recipe called for in several rec-
ipes in this book, which appear on pages 32, 105, and 106.

FISH PASTE
This is the basic ingredient for several recipes found in this cookbook. It shows up
in soup, steamed, fried, and spread on bread. The fish must be a white fish, with
very soft meat. Ladyfish is considered very good for this purpose, but perch or bass
may also be used.
25
2 lb. ladyfish Split the fish open from head to tail. With a spoon or a knife,
(substitute: perch scrape the meat from the bones and skin. Scrape lightly, gently,
or bass) a small area at a time. Take your time. It should make a soft,
paste-like mass. Note: If using bass or perch, it will be neces-
sary to chop or grind the meat after it is removed from the
bones and skin. Place in a mixing bowl.
3 tbsp.fishsauce Mix the fish sauce, water, cornstarch, salt and black pepper
3 tbsp. water together until smooth. Add to the fish paste, a small amount
1 tbsp. cornstarch at a time, kneading it in with the hands. Knead and mix well,
¼ tsp. salt picking out any stray bones or pieces of skin. Wet your hands
¼ tsp. black pepper occasionally with cold water so the fish paste won't stick.
Note: If you use bass, add another tbsp. of cornstarch.
1 egg white Reserve the egg yolk for later use in one of the variations on
this recipe, or in other recipes. Mix the egg white into the
fish paste, squeezing and kneading with the hands, until the
paste begins to stick together and form a smooth ball.
1 tbsp. cooking oil Add a small amount of cooking oil at a time and knead it into
the paste thoroughly.
2 medium shallots (or Slice the shallots in thin rounds and add to the paste, kneading
white part of green and mixing well. The paste should have become quite firm,
onion) like dough.
3 tbsp. pork fat Chill the pork fat, so it will be easier to cut. Use the fat trim-
(substitute: 4 tbsp. mings from pork chops, pork roast, etc. Chop the fat coarsely,
cooking oil) and add it to the paste. Knead and mix thoroughly.
Recipes using this basic paste are to be found on pages 32,
107, and 108.

COCONUT MILK
Coconut milk is one of the main ingredients for curry in Southeast Asia, and is used
in many other dishes. The "milk" is not the watery substance that is found in the
center of a fresh coconut, which is called "coconut water," or "coconut juice." The
milk is made by grating very fresh coconut and squeezing the grated pulp. If you
have a blender, you can make a most satisfactory substitute by following the in-
structions below.
1 medium-size fresh Open the coconut by hitting it "between the eyes" on a fine,
coconut but visible line that runs around the coconut. Take out the
meat, and peel off the brown portion. Slice in fairly fine pieces,
and put into the blender. Try using a screwdriver to remove
the meat: don't use a knife with a sharp point for it might
break off.
2 cups warm water Add warm water, and turn the blender on low speed for 1
minute. Then turn on high speed for 2 or 3 minutes. Strain
through a cloth, twisting the cloth to squeeze all the milk out.
Store in refrigerator, and use in recipes as directed. Stir before
using. It will keep in the refrigerator about a week or ten days.
26
NUOC LEO SAUCE
This unusual sauce is used as a dip for several different types of Vietnamese foods.
It is very good with BARBECUED PORK (page 42), and with the SALAD "SANDWICHES"
(page 96). If you don't live in a large city, you may have to order the Chinese bean
sauce, but it is worth the trouble.
½ cup glutinous rice Put the glutinous rice into a heavy pot with the water, bring
3 cups water to a boil on high heat then reduce the heat to low. Cook,
Heavy pot uncovered, until the water is all gone. Stir occasionally. Set
aside.
Medium size heavy Crush the garlic thoroughly. Preheat the oil on high heat, then
skillet drop in the garlic. When the garlic gives out its odor, add the
2 tbsp. cooking oil ground pork and reduce the heat to medium. Saute about 2
3 cloves garlic or 3 minutes, stirring occasionally.
½ lb. ground pork
8-oz. can Chinese Add the Chinese bean sauce, stir well, until smooth. Cook
bean sauce (page 12)another minute.
1 can (1½ cups) Add the chicken broth and sugar and stir well. Continue to
chicken broth cook for another minute. Broth from COOKED SHRIMP or
3 tbsp. sugar BOILED PORK, pages 24 and 23, may be substituted for the
chicken broth. Add the cooked rice and continue to cook on
medium heat another 5 minutes.
1 cup roasted peanuts Crush the peanuts coarsely and add, including all the "dust."
(not salted ones) Stir well and continue to cook another 5 minutes.
If the sauce is too thick (experience will tell, but it should be
about the consistency of oatmeal or other cooked cereal), add
more chicken broth. It can be frozen, in large or small quan-
tities. If frozen, thaw and heat before serving. Serve warm or
cold.

CARAMELIZED SUGAR
This is a basic ingredient for numerous Vietnamese recipes, though used in very
small quantity. You may find yourself reaching for it to use in other recipes, too,
once you have tried it. For instance, as a topping for ice cream, vanilla pudding, or
egg custard.
2 tbsp. brown sugar Heat the brown sugar on low heat with 1 tsp. water until it
Small sauce pan dissolves and becomes like caramel. It will change to a much
1 tsp. water darker brown. Stir and shake pan occasionally.
3 tbsp. water Add this additional water, stir until boiling, and remove from
heat. Pour into jar or other container that can be tightly closed
for storage. Can be stored in the refrigerator, if desired.
27
ONION OIL
This onion-flavored oil is used as a garnish in many Vietnamese recipes. It is quick
and easy to make, and you will probably find many other uses for it. The flavor is
much more delicate than that of green onions sauteed in oil.
Medium-sized skillet Chop the green onions, tops and all, and place in a heat resist-
3 tbsp. cooking oil ant bowl. Heat the cooking oil until hot, but not smoking, and
2 or 3 green onions pour over the onions. This gives quite a different flavor from
Heat-resistant bowl fried onions.
Leftover onion oil can be reserved for later use. The oil will
keep for several days.

28
 SOUPS
SOUP IS ONE OF THE BASIC ITEMS of a Vietnamese meal, and ii often the complete
meal. There is an infinite number of soups that can be made by various combi-
nations of the ingredients found in the sample recipes given here. Other soups
may be found in the chapters dealing with main dishes, usually with SOUP-SALAD
in the title.
In Vietnam, soup is usually eaten over rice, along with the rest of the meal. It
is used for the liquid in place of drinking water or tea. Tea is normally served
toward the end of or after the meal is finished.
Most soups are served with a side dish of fish sauce (page 15) for individual
seasoning to taste. If the soup is not salty enough, more fish sauce is added rather
than salt. Chinese parsley and wedges of lemon or lime are also often served as
garnish for soup.

PORK AND BEAN CURD SOUP Four servings

This is a hearty soup, and is a good simple meal served with rice and a salad. It may
also be served as an accompaniment to a larger meal. In a restaurant, this recipe
might have another six cups of water added and be soup for ten.
2 tbsp. tiny dried Place shrimp in small bowl and cover with cold water. Let
shrimp soak for ten minutes, or more if convenient. (Optional: sub-
Cold water to cover stitute a dash of monosodium glutamate, if desired.)
½ block bean curd Cut the block of bean curd in half lengthwise. Blot it dry with
(about 3 by 3 by 6 a paper towel, squeezing lightly between the hands. This keeps
inches) it from popping when it is fried. Heat the oil in a medium
1 tbsp. cooking oil skillet, on medium heat. Fry bean curd on its two widest sides,
Medium-sized skillet about 2 minutes on each side, using medium heat. This makes
it firm. Cut crosswise into ¼-inch pieces, about 1x3 inches.
4 quart pot Cut green onion in ¼-inch pieces. Mix half of it with the pork
/ tbsp. cooking oil and salt, reserving other half for next step. Heat the oil in the
1 green onion pot. Using medium heat, saute the onion, salt, and pork until
½ lb. ground pork pork changes color (about 3 minutes), stirring constantly.
½ tsp. salt
2 large tomatoes Chop tomatoes coarsely. Add to pork mixture and continue
to saute for about one minute or less. Stir occasionally.
Add the soaked dried shrimp. Saute another minute or less.
29
3 cups water Add water to the pork mixture and continue to cook on
medium heat until it boils.
Add the sliced bean curd, and bring to a simmer.
1 tbsp.fishsauce Add the fish sauce and bring just to a boil.
1 egg Stir egg just until mixed. Pour into soup and stir several times,
using a circular motion in the same direction. This makes
strings of cooked egg in the soup. Let the soup simmer 1 or 2
minutes. Don't let it boil after the egg is added.
About 20 chives Cut chives in 2-inch sections and add. Remove soup from heat
(optional) immediately.
TO SERVE Serve hot. (Can be reheated, but is best served immediately
after cooking.) This can be used as a simple soup, but is usually
served over rice with a side dish of plain fish sauce to be added
to the individual's taste. Leaf lettuce or other salad is an excel-
lent accompaniment.

LOTUS ROOT AND SHORTRIB SOUP Four servings

This subtly-flavored soup is appealing in flavor, and interesting to look at. The
lotus root with its many holes looks like round, gray Swiss cheese! The flavor is
something like potato, but it is crisp and crunchy.
1½ lb. lotus root Scrape as you would a carrot. Slice in thin rounds, about
¼ inch thick.
1 lb. pork shortribs Cut shortribs into small serving pieces. Slice shallots in thin
(lean) rounds.
2 shallots (or white
part of green onion)
Soup pot with cover Put water, shallot, salt, shortribs, and lotus root in soup pot.
5 cups water Bring to a boil on high heat, reduce the heat to medium low,
¼ tsp. salt cover, and simmer for 2 hours. There should still be about
2 cups of liquid remaining in the pot.
1 tbsp.fishsauce Add fish sauce, stir well, and taste. Add more fish sauce if not
salty enough. Remove from heat.
TO SERVE Serve hot, with rice. May be reheated several times.

SHORTRIBS WITH WINTER MELON SOUP Six servings

2 lb. Chinese winter Peel the winter melon, and cut away the soft, pithy center
melon (substitute: portion with the seeds. Discard peel and center. Cut the firm
butternut squashy white section of the melon into strips about 2 inches wide, the
page 20) length of the piece of melon. Then cut the strips into small
strips across, making pieces that are large bite size.
30
1 lb. shortribs (lean) Cut shortribs into small serving pieces. Slice the shallots into
2 shallots (or white thin rounds. Put water, salt, shallots, and shortribs into the
part of green onion) soup pot. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to
5 cups water medium high and cook for one hour. There should be about 2
¼ tsp. salt cups of liquid remaining in the pot.
Soup pot with cover
Add the winter melon, bring to a boil and remove from heat
after just a few seconds. It just needs to get hot at which point
it is cooked enough. If butternut squash is used, cook about
2 or 3 minutes, to taste.
Dash of black pepper Sprinkle with black pepper before serving.
TO SERVE Serve hot, with rice if desired.

SHORTRIBS WITH MUSTARD CABBAGE OR GREENS Four servings

1 lb. shortribs (lean) Cut shortribs into small serving pieces. Slice the shallots into
2 shallots (or white thin rounds. Put water, salt, shallots, and shortribs into the
part of green onion) soup pot, bring to a boil on high heat. Reduce the heat to
5 cups water medium high, cover, and simmer for about an hour. There
¼ tsp. salt should be about two cups of liquid remaining in the pot.
Soup pot with cover
About I lb. mustard Wash the greens, and discard bad spots. Cut the leaf portion
cabbage (substitute: into pieces about 2 inches long. Cut the stems into 1-inch
Chinese cabbage, pieces. Keep stems and leaves separate. Add the stems to the
regular head cabbage soup pot, and continue to cook on medium high heat about 2
or turnip greens) minutes. Add the fish sauce and stir. Then add the leafy por-
1 tbsp. fish sauce (or to tion, stir well and cook another 2 or 3 minutes. Remove from
taste) heat. The leaves will be wilted, but not soft. If not salty enough
add more fish sauce.
Dash of black pepper Sprinkle with black pepper before serving.
TO SERVE Serve hot with rice. Can be reheated, but the mustard leaves
will get soft and the flavor will be changed.

SHORTRIB AND TURNIP SOUP Four servings

1 lb. shortribs (lean) Cut shortribs into small serving pieces. Slice the shallots into
2 shallots (or white thin rounds. Put water, salt, shallots, and shortribs into the
part of green onion) soup pot. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to
5 cups water medium high and cook for one hour. There should be about 2
¼ tsp. salt cups of liquid remaining in the pot.
Soup pot with cover
1 lb. white turnip Peel turnip(s) and cut into strips about 2 or 3 inches long and
½ to ¾ inch square. They should be slightly uneven, but
almost the same size.
31
/ tbsp. fish sauce (or to Add the turnips and the fish sauce to the soup pot, bring to a
taste) boil and cook on medium high heat about 5 minutes. If cooked
too long the turnips will begin to smell excessively. Remove
from heat. Taste. Add more fish sauce if not salty enough.
Dash of black pepper Sprinkle with black pepper before serving.
TO SERVE Serve hot, with rice if desired. This can be reheated, but heat
quickly and remove from heat before the turnip begins to
smell.

FISH CAKE AND CHINESE CABBAGE SOUP Four servings

Soup made with the F I S H PASTE (page 25) or SHRIMP PASTE (page 25) can be made
in various ways, a few of which are described in the following recipes.
1 head Chinese cabbage Wash the cabbage, and chop the leaves into large pieces
(about 3 x 4 inches). Put aside for last step of recipe.
Soup pot with cover Bring the water to a boil over high heat, in the soup pot, then
3 cups water add the fish sauce and salt.
1 tbsp. fish sauce
¾ tsp. salt
1 cup Fish Paste (page Drop the fish paste into the boiling water one teaspoonful at a
25) time, rinsing the teaspoon in cold water between "drops." The
Cold water in a cup fish balls will turn white and float.
As soon as the fish balls are floating, add the pieces of Chinese
cabbage and cover the pot. Let it continue to boil, on high
heat, for about 1 minute or until the leaves are just wilted.
Remove cover, stir, cover again and continue to cook on high
heat another 3 minutes. Turn off the heat and leave the soup
covered in a warm place until ready to serve.
TO SERVE Serve hot. Serve plain, or over rice for a heartier soup. Can be
reheated, but do not overcook. Be sure there is a side dish of
fish sauce, in case the soup isn't salty enough for individual
taste.

FISH CAKE AND WATERCRESS S O U P Four servings

A nice, light soup that is still hearty enough for happy eating on a cool day.
/ bunch watercress Wash watercress thoroughly and remove the coarse stems.
Chop into pieces about 2 inches long.
Substitute the watercress for the Chinese cabbage and continue
according to the preceding recipe.

SHRIMP CAKE AND CHINESE CABBAGE SOUP Four servings

Here is another recipe for soup having several variations. This one uses SHRIMP
PASTE, page 25.

32
/ head Chinese Wash cabbage and chop leaves into large pieces, about 3 or 4
cabbage inches square. Reserve for last step below.
Soup pot with cover Bring water to a boil in the soup pot, on high heat, and add the
3 cups water fish sauce and salt.
1 tbsp. fish sauce
¼ tsp. salt
1 cup Shrimp Paste Drop the shrimp paste into the boiling water one teaspoonful
(page 25) at a time, rinsing the teaspoon in cold water between "drops."
Cold water in a cup The shrimp balls will turn white and float.
Add the Chinese cabbage leaves and cover the pot. Let the soup
continue to boil, on high heat, for about 1 minute or just until
the cabbage leaves are wilted. Remove cover, stir, cover again
and cook for another 3 minutes on high heat. Turn off heat and
leave the soup in a warm place, covered, until ready to serve.
TO SERVE Serve hot over rice, or plain, as a simple soup. Can be reheated
before serving, but be careful not to overcook.

SHRIMP CAKE AND WATERCRESS SOUP Four servings

1 bunch watercress Wash the watercress thoroughly and remove the coarse stems.
Chop leaves and tender stems into pieces about 2 inches long
and substitute for the Chinese cabbage in the preceding recipe.

SHRIMP BALLS AND BEAN THREAD S O U P Four servings

4-oz. pkg. bean thread Soak the bean thread in warm water to cover for about 10
Warm water to cover minutes, or until soft. When soft enough to cut, chop into
pieces about 2 or 3 inches long, using scissors or a sharp knife.
Substitute the bean thread for the Chinese cabbage in recipe on
page 32"

CRAB AND "WESTERN BAMBOO" SOUP Four servings

Asparagus is called "western b a m b o o " in Vietnam. This soup is quick to prepare,
but very hearty and filling. It is especially good on a cool day.
Soup pot Slice the shallots in thin rounds. Flake the crab meat. Heat the
1 tbsp. cooking oil oil in the cooking pot, and saute the crab meat and shallots on
2 shallots (or white high heat for 1 minute, stirring constantly.
part of green onion)
3 or 4 oz. crab meat
(fresh or canned)
1-lb. can asparagus Add the asparagus and stir briskly about 1 minute, shredding
spears the asparagus.
33
I can chicken broth Add chicken broth and water, stir well, bring to a boil and cook
(1½ cups) on high heat about 2 minutes.
1 cup water
1 tbsp. cornstarch Mix the cornstarch with some of the hot liquid in a cup or
small bowl until smooth. This keeps it from getting lumpy.
Add to the soup and stir well. Bring to a boil, and cook a min-
ute or two until slightly thickened.
1 egg Stir the egg slightly to mix the white and yolk, then dump it
into the soup. Stir immediately, with a circular movement
around and around the pot. This makes strings of cooked egg
in the soup.
Dash of black pepper Sprinkle the pepper over the top of the soup, stir, and remove
from heat.
TO SERVE Serve hot, with large slices of lemon or lime for each individual
serving, and with black pepper so that each person may season
the soup to taste. This soup can be made in advance and re-
heated.

CRAB S O U P WITH LILY FLOWERS & BEAN THREAD Four servings

This soup is light enough to be served as an accompaniment to a regular meal, but
is nourishing enough to be served with a green salad, as a luncheon.
4-oz. pkg. bean thread Soak the bean thread in hot water about 10 minutes to soften
Hot water to cover it. When soft enough, cut it into 3 to 5 inch lengths with scissors
or a sharp knife.
½ cup dried lily Soak the dried lily flowers about 10 minutes, or until soft.
flowers (optional) Break off about ¼-inch of the tough or hard stem end (not the
Warm water to cover flower end) and discard. Tie each stem in a knot in the middle
to make it have a sort of crunch when eaten. Leave the flowers
in water until ready to use. If not available, just omit this in-
gredient.
¼ lb- fresh (frozen) Clean crab meat and separate into bite-size chunks. Slice the
crab meat shallot in very thin rounds.
1 shallot (or white part
of green onion)
Heavy soup pot Heat the oil in the soup pot, on high heat. Put in the crab meat,
1 tbsp. cooking oil shallot, salt and pepper. Saute over high heat, stirring con-
¼ tsp. salt stantly, about 2 minutes.
Dash of black pepper
Add the soaked lily flowers and stir in.
3 cups water (or Add the water (or chicken stock, if a heartier soup is desired)
chicken stock) and the fish sauce, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce
2 tbsp. fish sauce heat to medium and cook for about 5 minutes.
Add the soaked bean thread and continue to cook over medium
heat another 5 minutes.
Dash ofmonosodium Add the monosodium glutamate, stir well, and remove from
glutamate heat.
34
 TO SERVE Serve hot, with rice if desired. Should be served with a side dish
of plain fish sauce to be added to individual taste, if the soup
is not salty enough. Can be reheated.

BEEF AND PINEAPPLE SOUP Four servings

Wait, now! Not sweet, canned pineapple but fresh or unsweetened pineapple. It
makes a wonderful vegetable!
½ lb. beef (sirloin or Slice the beef thin ¼ inch) in pieces about ¾ inch wide and 2
chuck blade roast) or 3 inches long. Chop the onions fine and mix with the beef.
2 green onions
¼ fresh pineapple Chop the fresh pineapple in small chunks, then squeeze it
substitute: small can firmly between the hands to get out most of the juice. It will
of dietary or other break up into small pieces, much like crushed pineapple. If
unsweetened pineapple) canned pineapple is substituted, drain well then press as much
juice out as possible. Be sure not to use sweetened pineapple.
1 tbsp. cooking oil Heat the oil in the skillet and saute the beef and onion about 1
Large heavy skillet minute, or until beef begins to change color. It should still be
pinkish. Remove from skillet and set aside.
4-qt. pot Cut the onion in 8 or 10 sections and separate. Put the water,
4 cups water salt, fish sauce, onion, monosodium glutamate and pepper in
1 tsp. salt the pot with the crushed pineapple. Bring to a boil on high
2 tbsp. fish sauce heat. Turn off the heat and add the beef. (This keeps the beef
1 onion from getting tough.) Stir and serve immediately.
Dash of monosodium
glutamate
Dash of black pepper
TO SERVE Serve hot as a course in a regular dinner, or with rice as a light
meal. Can be reheated, but the beef will probably get tough
because overcooking toughens it.

SHRIMP AND PINEAPPLE SOUP

Similar to "Beef and Pineapple Soup," this one calls for fresh or unsweetened
pineapple, and not the sweet canned type. It makes a delicious vegetable soup.
½ lb. white shrimp Shuck the shrimp, wash it well, and chop coarsely. Chop the
2 green onions onions fine and mix with the shrimp.
¼ fresh pineapple Chop the fresh pineapple into small chunks, then squeeze it
(substitute: small firmly between the hands to get out most of the juice. It will
can of dietary or break up into small pieces, much like crushed pineapple. If
other unsweetened canned pineapple is substituted, drain well then press as much
pineapple) juice out as possible. Be sure not to use sweetened pineapple.
35
2 tbsp. fat or Heat the fat in the pot. Saute the shrimp and onions for
cooking oil about one minute. Add water, salt, fish sauce, monosodium
4-qt. pot glutamate, pepper, and crushed pineapple, then bring to a boil
3 cups water and cook for 2 minutes. Remove from heat and serve.
1 tsp. salt
2 tbsp. fish sauce
Dash of monosodium
glutamate
Dash of black pepper
TO SERVE Serve hot as a soup accompanying a regular dinner, or with
rice as a light meal. It is especially good with "Shrimp
Sauce" (page 20). Can be reheated.

BEEF AND TOMATO SOUP Four servings

This hearty soup has an especially nice flavor; it may be served as a light meal with
rice, or may be used as a dinner soup, with less beef if desired. It is quickly pre-
pared, taking less than five minutes total cooking time.
1 lb. bottom sirloin Slice the sirloin against the grain into thin pieces about ¼ inch
3 shallots (or white thick, 1 inch wide and 2 or 3 inches long. Slice the shallots into
part of green onions) thin rounds. Mix the shallots, salt, pepper, and meat together,
½ tsp. salt and set aside to marinate, or season, for about 30 minutes, if
Dash of pepper you have time.
2 large tomatoes Cut the tomatoes in eighths. Remove the seeds if desired.
Large soup pot Heat the cooking oil in the soup pot. Saute the meat and shallot
1 tbsp. cooking oil mixture, stirring constantly, on high heat just until the meat
begins to turn grey in places (about 1 minute). It should still be
pink, or it will get tough. Remove from the pot immediately
and reserve.
1 tbsp. cooking oil Slice the shallot in thin rounds. Heat the cooking oil in the soup
1 shallot (or white part pot, and saute the shallot for a few seconds on high heat, stir-
of green onion) ring. Add the tomato and continue to saute, stirring, about 1
minute.
3 cups water Add the water, fish sauce, and salt. Bring to a rolling boil, add
1 tbsp. fish sauce the beef and remove from heat. Be careful not to overcook or
½ tsp. salt the beef will get tough. Serve immediately. If not to be served
at once, wait until ready to serve to add the meat.
TO SERVE Serve hot, either plain or over rice. Can be reheated, but the
meat will get tough. If leftovers look likely, serve all the meat
the first time and have only the soup left over.

GIBLET AND BEAN THREAD SOUP Four servings

Here's an excellent way to use leftover chicken giblets.
7 4-oz. pkg. bean Soak the bean thread in warm water to cover at least 10 min-
thread utes. Drain well, and chop coarsely. Set aside.
Water to cover
36
½ lb. giblets (frying Chop the chicken hearts and gizzards into thumbnail size
chicken gizzards and chunks. Slice the shallots in thin rounds. Mix the giblets, with
hearts) the shallots, salt, fish sauce and pepper, and set aside to season,
2 shallots (or white or marinate, for 20 or 30 minutes.
part of green onions)
I tsp. salt
1 tbsp. fish sauce
Dash of pepper
1 tbsp. cooking oil Heat the cooking oil in a deep pot, and put in the seasoned
2 qt. heavy pot chicken giblets. Saute on medium heat about 3 minutes, stirring
occasionally.
1½ cups chicken broth Add the chicken broth and water to the giblet mixture in the
1½ cups water pot. Bring to a boil, on medium high heat, and boil for about
5 minutes. Add the bean thread and cook for another 3 minutes
or so.
TO SERVE Serve hot, in soup bowls, with a slice of lime or lemon.

CHICKEN-LONG RICE SOUP Four servings

Deep heavy pot Put the chicken in the deep pot with the water and thin-sliced
I lb. chicken backs ginger to help get rid of the slightly disagreeable odor of boiling
1 lb. frying chicken chicken. Bring to a boil and cook on medium high heat for
pieces about 30 minutes.
6 cups water
4 thin slices fresh
ginger root (substi-
tute: green onion
tops)
4-oz. pkg. bean thread Soak the bean thread in warm water to cover 10 minutes or
(long rice) or more. Drain well and chop coarsely.
Warm water to cover
Take out the frying chicken pieces, leaving the backs in the pot.
When the frying chicken pieces have cooled, remove the meat
from the bones and shred it. Skim off the scum from the top of
the soup, and decrease the heat to medium.
2 shallots (or white Crush the shallots with the flat side of a knife blade and add
part of green onions) to the soup in the pot.
2 tbsp. fish sauce Add the fish sauce, salt and pepper to the soup, and let it con-
½ tsp. salt tinue to simmer another 20 minutes.
Dash of black pepper
Add the soaked bean thread and the shredded chicken and
cook for another two minutes. Turn off the heat.
TO SERVE Can be served over rice, or as a soup with dinner. Be sure to
serve with a side dish of plain fish sauce for individual season-
ing to taste, if it is not salty enough. Garnish with Chinese
parsley.
37
 CHICKEN AND WINTER MELON SOUP Four servings
Meaty bones from a If bones are large, chop into egg-size or smaller pieces with a
frying chicken (or cleaver. Slice the shallot into thin rounds.
1 lb. backs and
wings)
1 shallot (or white
part of green onion)
1 tbsp. cooking oil Heat the cooking oil in the soup pot and saute the shallot and
Heavy soup pot chicken bones on high heat, stirring, for about 2 minutes.
1 qt. water Add water, bring to a boil and cook over medium high heat
about 15 minutes.
1 tbsp. fish sauce Add seasoning and stir well. Taste, and add more salt or fish
¼ tsp. salt sauce if desired. Reduce heat to medium low and cook another
Dash of black pepper 20 or 30 minutes.
2 lb. Chinese winter Peel the winter melon, remove the center portion with the
melon (substitute: largest seeds and the soft section. Slice into pieces about ¼ inch
butternut squash) thick and about 1 inch wide and 2 or 3 inches long. Add to the
soup and cook about 2 minutes before serving. Use the Chinese
winter melon (sometimes called Chinese squash) if possible to
find it. Butternut squash is an acceptable substitute, but a
smaller amount may be used, and a slightly longer cooking
period may be desired—taste it after 2 minutes, and if it is too
hard, cook another minute or so.
TO SERVE Serve as a broth-type soup, or serve over rice, as desired, with
a side dish of fish sauce for individual seasoning.

CHICKEN AND RICE SOUP Eight servings

This soup is a hearty one, but may be served in small quantities as an accompani-
ment to a main dish; it is excellent as a one-dish luncheon or dinner.
1 cup rice Put the rice and water into a pot and bring to a boil on high
4 cups water heat. Reduce the heat to medium low and cook, uncovered,
3-quart pot until the rice is very soft and the water has disappeared (about
30 minutes), but do not burn the rice. Stir gently 3 or 4 times.
Soup pot Cut the frying chicken in half and put into the soup pot with
6 cups water the water. Bring to a boil on high heat. Save the giblets for use
1 medium frying in another recipe.
chicken
1 shallot (or a green Smash the bulb portion of the shallot, cut the green top into 2
onion) or 3 inch lengths, and add to the chicken in the pot.
10 thin slices fresh Slice the fresh ginger root thin and add to the chicken. This gets
ginger root rid of the slightly strong "chicken" taste that boiled chicken
(optional) sometimes has. If fresh ginger is not available, substitute re-
constituted dried whole ginger root.
Continue cooking on high heat for 30 minutes. Take out the
chicken and cool. When cool, remove meat from the bones.
Put the soft rice into the chicken broth and stir well.
38
Dash of monosodium Add the monosodium glutamate, pepper, salt, and fish sauce
glutamate and turn off the heat.
Dash of black pepper
¼ tsp. salt
2 tbsp. fish sauce
TO SERVE Before serving, put in a finely chopped green onion. This is a
1 green onion substitute for a special kind of Vietnamese mint that is not
Lemon wedges usually available elsewhere. Add half of the boned chicken, in
Fish sauce medium-sized shreds or chunks. Reserve the remainder of the
chicken for use in other recipes. Serve hot, with a side dish of
fish sauce for use if not salty enough for the individual taste.
A fat wedge of lemon should be served with each bowl, to be
squeezed in to taste.

DUCK SOUP Ten servings

Have you heard the old expression "easy as duck soup" ? This is easy, and makes a
warming, simple soup.
Bones, bony pieces and Use a very large soup pot. Duck is flavorful, and will flavor a
some extra fat from big pot of soup. Put the duck in the pot with the water and
a duck (or cut up and bring to a boil over high heat. (If it begins to boil over, reduce
cook a whole tough the heat slightly.) Boil for 20 minutes. (If a tough duck is used,
duck this way—just reduce heat to medium and cook until the meat is tender—3 or
cook it a lot longer) 4 hours if necessary.) Add more water as it boils away, keeping
Large soup pot the level about the same.
3 to 5 qts. water
4 or 5 slices fresh Skim the scum off the top of the soup, so it will be transparent.
ginger root Add the ginger root. Slice the green onions in ½-inch pieces
2 green onions and add, with the salt.
1 tsp. salt
1 cup rice Wash the rice and add to the soup. When cooking is finished
the rice will be very soft, and the soup will be slightly thickened
by the rice. Reduce the heat to low and cook for another 30
minutes, or until tender. If you, like most Vietnamese families,
have leftover cooked rice, use 2 cups of that and add about 15
minutes before the cooking is done.
2 tbsp.fishsauce (or Add the fish sauce and pepper just before serving. Stir well. If
to taste) the soup is not salty enough, add more fish sauce or serve with
Dash of black pepper a bowl of fish sauce so each individual may season the soup to
taste.
TO SERVE Serve hot, in large deep soup bowls, garnished with Chinese
Chinese parsley parsley if available. Serve with large slices of lemon, to be
Lemon slices squeezed gently into the individual bowls to taste. Can be re-
heated several times. Don't keep more than 2 or 3 days in the
refrigerator—the fat causes it to spoil quickly. Can be frozen
and stored for longer periods.
Notice that, although lots of fat was put into the soup, it comes
out not tasting fat.
39
 PORK MAIN DISHES
PORK IS THE MOST COMMON TYPE OF MEAT used in Vietnam, as in most of the orient.
It is used either ground or chopped very fine, or sliced in very thin, bite-size pieces.
When cooked as a roast, it is often cut into smaller chunks so that the seasonings
may soak in better. Most of the beef recipes may also be used for cooking pork.
Pork fat is also much used in Vietnam; as a result of the wide spread use of pork,
it is readily available and is a cheap source of cooking fat. In these recipes, cooking
oil has been substituted for pork fat in most cases.

POT ROAST PORK

Every well-equipped refrigerator should have a chunk of this inside for all sorts of
emergencies.
3 lb. fresh ham roast Buy lean meat, all in one piece. Slice the garlic in very thin
4 cloves garlic rounds. With the tip of a sharp-pointed knife, make incisions
1 tbsp. salt all around the chunk of roast. As each incision is made, with
1 tsp. black pepper the knife still in the meat, pry the hole slightly open and insert
a slice of garlic. Mix the salt and pepper together and rub the
surface of the meat well with the mixture. Pull the roast to-
gether into a firm tight roll, and tie it tightly with string.
Roasting pan with Heat the cooking oil in the roaster and brown the meat on all
cover sides, on medium heat.
1 tbsp. cooking oil
1 cup cold tap water Add the water, bring to a boil and reduce the heat to low.
Cover and cook on low heat until tender (about 1 hour). Since
the water will not cover the meat, uncover and turn the roast
over occasionally.
TO SERVE This is best served cold. Slice thin and serve with a salad, or
with leaf lettuce and mint leaves, or with PICKLED BEAN
SPROUTS (page 92). It is also good for making sandwiches with
French rolls or French bread.

PORK STEW Six servings

This can be made in advance and reheated repeatedly. It keeps well in the refrig-
erator about 1 week, and can be frozen very successfully. Every well-stocked refrig-
erator should have some.
40
2 lb. fresh lean ham Cut the ham roast into approximately 3-inch chunks (cubes).
roast There won't be many, but the roast should not be left in one
large piece.
1 tsp. salt Crush the shallots. Combine with the salt, sugar, caramel
1 tbsp. sugar syrup, pepper and fish sauce, and pour over the cubes of pork.
2 shallots (or white Let marinate, at room temperature, about 1 hour.
part of green onion)
I tsp. caramel syrup
(page 27)
¼ tsp. black pepper
¼ cup fish sauce
Heavy pot with cover Bring water to a boil in the heavy pot. Put all of the ham and
6 cups water the marinade sauce into the boiling water and bring to a boil
again. Skim off the scum, reduce the heat to medium low,
cover, and let simmer until tender (about 3 hours). Use the
chopstick test: If the end of a chopstick can be pushed into the
meat, it is tender.
TO SERVE Serve hot, with rice, salad, PICKLED BEAN SPROUTS, (page 92)
etc. You will probably find many other ways of your own to
serve this.

SWEET-SOUR SHORTRIBS Four servings

Quite different from the usual type, and sure to be popular. Fresh pineapple makes
both the "sweet" and the "sour" in this recipe.
Large skillet Slice shallots in thin rounds. Cut lean shortribs into serving
1½ lb. shortribs pieces. Place in large skillet and add shallots, salt, and water.
4 cups water Bring to a boil on high heat, cover and reduce heat to medium.
2 shallots (or white Simmer, covered, for 2 hours. If water evaporates before cook-
part of green onions) ing is completed, add about 1 more cup. If all water is not
1 tsp. salt evaporated at the end of 2 hours, bring heat to high, uncover
and boil until water is all evaporated.
½ fresh pineapple Clean pineapple, take out core, then cut into small chunks.
Squeeze between the hands, getting out as much juice as pos-
sible. This will crush the pineapple. Save the juice for drinking,
salads, etc.
2 large carrots Shred the carrots, using a vegetable peeler or large section of
grater.
1 large tomato Cut tomato in eighths.
2 cloves garlic Crush the garlic and add to meat in skillet, which will begin to
saute in its own fat. Turn heat to medium high. When the smell
of the garlic begins to be noticeable, put in the pineapple, car-
rots and tomato. Saute about 1 minute. Stir often.
1 cup water Add the water and fish sauce, stir well, cover and steam about
2 tbsp. fish sauce 10 minutes, still on medium high heat.
½ tsp. cornstarch Take some of the juice from the skillet, mix the cornstarch with
it so it won't get lumpy, and stir into the mixture in the skillet.
Let cook about 1 more minute. Serve.
41
VARIATION If fresh pineapple is not available, use a small can of crushed
pineapple and add a tablespoon of vinegar to it, or use canned
diet (unsweetened) pineapple.
TO SERVE Serve hot, with rice, soup, and salad.

PORK SHORTRIBS Four servings

Be sure to get shortribs, the country style with lots of lean meat—don't buy the
spareribs that are all fat and bone and very "spare" of meat. This is an appetite
teaser, makes you want to eat lots of rice.
1 lb. lean pork short- Sprinkle the salt over the shortribs. Cut the onions in 2-inch
ribs lengths, tops and all, and mix with the shortribs. Let stand 20
2 green onions or 30 minutes to "season."
¼ tsp. salt
Medium skillet with Heat the oil in the skillet, and saute the ribs and onions over
cover high heat 2 or 3 minutes, or until the pork has mostly changed
1 tbsp. cooking oil color and begins to brown, stirring all the time. Cover and cook
1 minute on high heat.
I tsp. sugar Mix the sugar and water, remove cover and pour over the
¼ cup water shortribs and stir well. Cover again and lower the heat to
medium high. Cook about 5 minutes, removing the cover to
stir occasionally.
I tbsp.fishsauce Turn on ventilating fan. Add the fish sauce, cover, and cook 5
more minutes on medium high heat. Don't be put off by the
smell of thefishsauce in this recipe—it is different in taste once
the cooking is done.
Dash of black pepper Sprinkle black pepper over the shortribs, stir, and remove from
the heat.
TO SERVE Serve hot, with rice, soup, and salad. This is very good reheated,
and can be frozen.

FANCY BARBECUED PORK ON SKEWERS Four servings

This tender delicacy takes a little time to prepare, and also a little muscle power.
The lazy ones might want to use ground pork, but that gives quite a different type
of barbecue, and cannot be considered a substitute. Be sure you have the right kind
of equipment on hand before starting this recipe. For instance, you need skewers
that are long enough to reach across your barbecue grill. Or, as an alternative, a
light-weight wire grill to keep the balls of pork from falling into the fire.
1½ lb-verylean pork Trim any fat off the pork, and get rid of all bone and gristle.
leg (ham), or pork Then slice very thin ( inch) and cut in pieces about 1 inch
cutlet square.
42
/ tbsp. rice wine, or Mix the wine, salt, and sugar with the pork and let it soak at
sherry (or 1 tsp. rum least 30 minutes. This helps to keep the meat moist when it is
or brandy) barbecued.
½ tsp. salt
½ tsp. sugar
2 cloves garlic Crush the garlic fine. Using a mortar and pestle (see page 9
for instructions), pound the seasoned meat together with the
crushed garlic until it all is reduced to a paste. Note that it is
much easier to pound a small quantity at a time.
1 tbsp. roasted rice Pound the roasted rice (see page 18) (or the roasted soy beans)
(substitute: roasted to a powder. If neither is available, just omit. Add the powder,
soy beans) (op- along with the fish sauce, to the pork paste. Then mix in the
tional) lard. Lard, either bought or rendered from slowly cooked pork
1 tsp. fish sauce fat, is better than vegetable shortening because of the flavor,
2 tbsp. lard and because it also contributes to the moistness of the bar-
becued pork.
Long barbecue skewers Knead the paste well, with the hands, as if it were dough. Then
(or short, individual form the paste into slightly elongated balls on the skewers,
wooden or bamboo putting several balls on a long skewer or one ball on a short
skewers) skewer. Squeeze the meat firmly when making the balls, and
squeeze it firmly onto the skewers so it won't slip off or fall
apart while cooking.
Charcoal barbecue Cook the skewered pork balls over a medium charcoal heat for
equipment about 15 minutes or more, depending on the size of the balls,
the heat, etc., making sure the pork is well done and slightly
browned on the outside. Turn occasionally so that all sides cook
evenly. For a small group, this would work well on a rotisserie.
TO SERVE Serve on a central plate. Also serve a central plate of leaf let-
Leaf lettuce tuce, mint, and Chinese parsley, and a plate with about ¼
Chinese parsley (if pound cooked look fun noodles (page 17). These can be put on
available) top of a lettuce leaf "for looks." Serve with individual bowls
Fresh mint leaves of Nuoc LEO SAUCE (page 27)
Nuoc Leo Sauce
¼ lb. look fun noodles
TO EAT This is something to be eaten with the hands. First, take a leaf
of lettuce. On top of it put a few strands of cooked noodles and
a piece or two of Chinese parsley and mint. Then put a bar-
becued pork ball in the nest thus formed, wrap the lettuce leaf
closely around all, take a firm grip and dip it into the Nuoc Leo
Sauce. Each leaf may call for several dips into the sauce, or if
you have small leaves you may prefer to divide the meat balls
into several bite-size pieces.

DRY PORK STEW Four servings

This is considered a very healthful food in Vietnam. It is fed to new mothers, along
with rice and a boiled vegetable, as the safest possible food for one in such a delicate
condition. It is also eaten by non-mothers, fathers, sons, and anyone else who can
get near the dish!
43
Medium small pot Use lean pork chops, or pork shoulder. Remove the bones, and
/ lb. fairly lean pork slice the meat against the grain in thin ( - i n c h ) strips about 1
2 shallots (or white inch wide and 2 or 3 inches long. Slice the shallots in thin
part of green onion) rounds. Put into a small deep pot—a larger pot will not serve
for this dish, for it must cook at fairly high heat and yet not
burn. The small pot presents less surface for burning.
¼ tsp. black pepper Add the seasoning and water to the pork in the pot, put on high
2 tbsp.fish sauce heat and bring to a boil. Stir well, mix. and cook about 2 min-
¼ tsp. salt utes. Reduce heat to medium high, and boil for about 20 to 30
1 tbsp. sugar minutes, stirring occasionally. All the liquid should be ab-
2 tbsp. water sorbed by the meat, and it will begin to turn a light brown. Be
careful not to burn it.
TO SER VE This will be pretty salty, so serve with lots of rice and a soup
and salad.

SAFFRON EGGPLANT WITH PORK Six servings

An unusual way with eggplant, this. Good for a hearty dinner, or for lunch on a
cold day.
/ block bean curd Cut the block of bean curd in half. Blot with paper toweling,
about 1½ inches squeezing lightly, to keep from popping in hot oil. Heat the
thick, 6 inches long, oil in the skillet on medium heat. Saute both sides of both
3 inches wide (op- blocks about 2 or 3 minutes, to make firmer, using medium
tional) (page 12) heat. Slice into smaller sections, making about 8 or 12 pieces
2 tbsp. cooking oil from each of the larger blocks.
Heavy skillet
2 tbsp. dried shrimp Soak the small dried shrimp in warm water about 10 minutes,
(optional: substitute then boil over high heat about 5 minutes. Drain off water and
a dash of monoso- reserve it for seasoning other foods, if desired.
dium glutamate)
Warm water to cover
½ lb. pork leg, about Slice the pork in small pieces, about ]/8 inch thick and 1 inch
¾ lean and ¼ fat wide, 2 or 3 inches long. Try to get a little fat in each slice.
2 tbsp. cooking oil Using the same skillet used to saute the bean curd, heat the
cooking oil and saute the pork and soaked dried shrimp,
stirring occasionally, over high heat for about 1 minute.
2 green onions Slice the green onions, including the green top portion, in
small pieces. Add to the pork and continue to saute on high
heat another minute, stirring occasionally.
1 box fresh mushrooms Cut the largest mushrooms in half, then wash all gently. Add
(about ¼ lb.) to the pork, reduce the heat to medium and cook 2 minutes,
stirring gently occasionally.
2 long eggplants, or 1 Wash eggplant and peel, leaving on a few strips of skin for
medium round egg- color. Cut in thick finger-size pieces.
plant
½ tsp. saffron (or 1 tsp Add salt, saffron and eggplant to top of pork in skillet. Stir
curry powder) gently. Cook about 1 minute on medium heat.
½ tsp. salt
44
1 cup water Add the water slowly. Then place the bean curd over the top.
(From here on do not stir, but add things in layers.) Continue
to cook on medium heat another 3 minutes.
1 clove garlic Crush and chop fine, and sprinkle the garlic over the mixture
in the skillet. Do not stir.
2 large tomatoes Remove the stem end, and cut the tomatoes in eighths. Add
2 tbsp. fish sauce to the top of the mixture in the skillet, then dribble the fish
sauce over the top. Do not stir. Continue to cook on medium
heat until done (another 15 or 20 minutes). Total cooking
time should be about 30 minutes.
TO SERVE Serve hot, with rice and salad. Be sure to pour some of the
juice over the rice, too. Can be reheated, but do not freeze. It is
best when freshly prepared, since the bean curd and the egg-
plant are fragile and will disintegrate or get mushy.

PORK AND COCONUT WATER STEW Six to eight servings

This delightful dish is included because it is so popular in Vietnam, though it will
probably not be possible to duplicate it in many places. The basic ingredient is the
water of green coconuts, fresh off the tree. There is no substitute.
Heavy pot with cover Cut the fresh ham into 3-inch cubes (or chunks); there won't be
2 lb. fresh lean ham many. Crush the shallots. Use the water from very young,
roast green coconuts—the type that is used for drinking. Mix all in-
4 cups green-coconut gredients together in a heavy pot, and bring to a boil over high
water (no substitute) heat, uncovered.
1 tbsp. salt
3 shallots (or white
part of green onions)
¼ tsp. black pepper
¼ cup fish sauce
Skim off the scum, cover, and cook slowly over low heat about
3 hours. The color will change to a very dark, translucent
brown.
TO SERVE Serve hot, with rice, salad, soup, or as a main dish. This can be
made in advance and reheated several times. It will keep 1 week
in the refrigerator and can be frozen.

CARAMELIZED P O R K Four or more servings

This takes a long time to cook, but is very easy to do. In Hue, central Vietnam,
pork belly is used in this recipe. Belly is very fat and is considered good in a cooler
climate. Don't discard the fat portions before tasting—it is surprisingly good and
surprisingly digestible!
45
1 lb. fresh pork leg Cut the fresh ham into several chunks about 1½to 2 inches
(ham) square.
2-qt. pot Chop the green onion fine. Heat the oil in the pot, then add
1 tbsp. cooking oil the onion and the remaining ingredients, including the pork.
1 tsp. salt Saute, stirring, on medium heat until the meat is brown (about
2 green onions 5 minutes or more).
Dash of pepper
1 tsp. sugar
Add the water and simmer, uncovered, on medium heat for one
4 cups water hour.
Add the fish sauce and continue to simmer on medium heat 1
1 tbsp.fishsauce more hour. Most of the water will be absorbed by the meat and
the remainder will be slightly thick—or caramelized. Be
careful not to burn it.
TO SERVE Serve hot as a main dish, with lots of rice. This has a very long
life—it may be frozen, refrigerated, reheated, served as an
appetizer, etc., etc.

VIETNAMESE MEAT LOAF Four servings

This meat loaf is made with pork and steamed, and has quite a different flavor and
texture from an American meat loaf. It is very quick, and does not heat up the
oven. This is the same mixture that is used to stuff CABBAGE ROLLS, page 49.
6 dried mushrooms Soak the dried mushrooms in hot water until soft and pliable.
Hot water to cover (at least 20 minutes). Cut off and discard the hard stem portion,
and chop the mushrooms coarsely.
½ cup bean thread Soak the bean thread in warm water to cover at least 10
Warm water to cover minutes. Chop coarsely, then measure out ½ cup for use in
this recipe. Any remainder may be used in other recipes.
3 shallots (or white Slice the shallots in thin rounds. Chop the onion coarsely.
part of green onions)
½ medium onion
1 lb. ground pork Add the mushrooms, long rice, shallot and onion to the ground
1 tbsp.fishsauce pork. It is better to usefinelychopped pork, chopped at home
½ tsp. salt with a heavy, very sharp knife, but ground pork from the
Dash of black pepper butcher's is an adequate substitute. Then add the fish sauce,
salt, and black pepper and mix together thoroughly with the
hands, or with a spoon or fork, if desired.
4 eggs Break the eggs into the meat mixture and mix in well with the
hands, or a spoon or fork.
Flat heat-proof dish Place the meat loaf in a heatproof dish and put in the top part
Steamer of the steamer. (See page 10 for instructions.) Put water into
bottom of the steamer, put the top section, with the meat loaf,
in place, cover and steam over high heat until firm (about 20
minutes). To test, remove the lid, try the loaf with a fork or
spoon, gently.
46
TO SERVE This is especially good served with leaf lettuce. Wrap a bite-
Nuoc Man Sauce sized portion of the loaf in a leaf of lettuce, dip into the sauce
Leaf lettuce and eat with appropriate noises of appreciation. Can also be
served with rice, with bread, or in any way one might serve
meat loaf American style.

LONG RICE AND PORK MIX Four to six servings

26 rolls 0/ngun si fun Put the individual tiny bundles of noodles into warm water to
noodles, also known cover. As soon as they have softened enough to make it easy,
as "rice sticks" or py untie the individual bundles and discard the ties. Soak about
mei fun {page 18) one hour.
Warm water to cover
Deep pot
Put the pot of noodles and the soaking water on high heat.
Bring just to the boiling point and remove from heat immedi-
ately. Drain at once in a colander. These noodles are very
fragile and will disintegrate if cooked very much.
1 egg Beat the egg with a fork just until the white and yellow are
1 tsp. cooking oil thoroughly mixed. Preheat the skillet with the oil in it on
Large heavy skillet medium heat. Reduce the heat to low and pour in the egg,
turning and tilting the skillet so that the egg spreads in a thin
layer over the skillet bottom. Cook until the egg is dry.
Remove from heat, and when cool enough, roll the egg into a
roll about 3 inches wide. Slice across into strips about ¼ inch
wide and set aside.
½ cup tiny dried Soak the dried shrimp in warm water to cover about 15
shrimp minutes. Omit if you don't like, or can't get.
(optional: substi-
tute a dash of mono-
sodium glutamate)
Warm water to cover
1 lb. fresh pork leg Slice the fresh pork thin (about inch) and cut in pieces about
(ham) or pork chop 1 inch wide and 2 inches long. Leave on plenty of fat. Chop
2 green onions the green onion fine, top and all.
Large skillet Preheat the oil on high heat, and put in the pork and green
3 tbsp. cooking oil onion. Reduce heat to medium and saute about 2 minutes,
stirring frequently.
Add in the soaked dried shrimp and stir well (optional).
2 tbsp. salt Add the salt and pepper and continue to cook on medium
Dash of black pepper heat another 2 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Add in the drained noodles and continue to cook another
minute, stirring very gently occasionally.
/ lb. fresh bean sprouts Add the bean sprouts, mix gently, and continue to cook on
medium heat for 2 more minutes. Lift with a spatula from the
bottom occasionally to keep from sticking too much.
47
About 1 cup (loose Cut the chives in 2 or 3 inch lengths before measuring. Add to
pack) chives the mixture in the skillet and mix in gently. Continue to cook
on medium heat 2 more minutes, lifting from the bottom with
spatula occasionally.
¼ cup water Mix the water and fish sauce together, then pour over the
2 tbsp. fish sauce noodle mixture gradually, stirring gently to mix in well.
Add the sliced, cooked egg, mix in gently and remove from
heat.
TO SERVE Serve hot, with side dishes of Nuoc MAM SAUCE (page 23). This
Nuoc Mam Sauce can be reheated by wrapping in aluminum foil and steaming in
a steamer, but if it is stirred too much the noodles will fall
apart into tiny bits more like rice.

TROTTING BAMBOO STEW Four to eight servings

This is one of the many ways the Vietnamese prepare pig's trotters—considered
a very tasty part of the pig. In Vietnam, fresh bamboo shoots are available during
most of the year and they are often used in preparing this dish, but canned bamboo
may be substituted. Dried bamboo shoots are used during the rainy season, but the
dried bamboo is sun dried for family use and is not intended for storage beyond
the three months or so of need. Dried bamboo shoots available in Chinese or other
oriental stores in other parts of the world are usually machine or kiln dried, and
need considerably more soaking and boiling. Other recipes using dried bamboo are
listed in the index under "bamboo, dried."
3 to 4 oz. dried bamboo Soak the bamboo shoots overnight. Next day drain and rinse
shoots well.
3 qts. water
Soup pot Put the soaked bamboo shoots in a soup pot with water to
Water cover and add baking soda, which helps to make the bamboo
1 tsp. baking soda shoots more tender. Bring to a boil and cook, uncovered, over
medium heat, about 1 hour. Drain and rinse the shoots under
cool running water, rubbing firmly between the hands to clean
thoroughly. Drain well. Cut each strip in half across, then cut
each half into 3 or so lengthwise strips about ½ inch wide
and 2 or 3 inches long. Put the strips back in the soup pot.
2½ lbs. pigs feet Wash the pigs feet, They will be pretty clean clean when they
1 tsb. salt come from the butcher's, so this won't be too great a job. Then
1 tbsp. fish sauce cut into 3-inch sections and put in the soup pot with the strips
2 green onions of dried bamboo. Cut the green onions into 2-inch lengths and
Water to cover add, with the salt and fish sauce. Pour in water to cover. Bring
to a boil on high heat. Reduce heat to medium, cover and cook
1 or 2 hours, or until everything is tender. The bamboo shoots
should have a slightly firm and chewy texture, similar to that of
fresh green onions when only slightly cooked. The flavor is
quite different, though. NOTE: If canned bamboo is sub-
stituted, begin with this step.
48
TO SERVE Remove the bones from the pigs feet. Pull the meat into shreds.
Put the meat back into the stew and serve hot, with rice and a
salad. Can be served over rice, if desired. This can be stored in
the refrigerator several days and reheated. Can be frozen for
longer storage.

CABBAGE ROLLS Six servings

This Vietnamese version of the truly international cabbage roll is very quick to
prepare, yet it is attractive for a company dinner and hearty for a family one-dish
dinner.
14 large outside leaves In a wide pan, or skillet, bring about a quart or more of water
from cabbage to a rolling boil. Remove any broken outer leaves from the
Boiling water cabbage, then take the large leaves off the head carefully.
Immerse each leaf in the boiling water and wilt—about 1
minute or less. More than one leaf can be done at once, just be
sure the entire leaf is immersed. An alternate method is to
immerse the entire head of cabbage in a pot of boiling water for
a minute or two, then remove the outer leaves. The stem section
of the cabbage leaves may still be too hard to roll easily. In
such a case, with a very sharp knife, pare away a portion of the
stem at the back, just making it thinner. Don't cut it away
completely.
7 or 8 green onion Use just the green stem portion from little green onions,
stems choosing stems that are at least 8 inches long. The longer the
better. These, too, should be wilted in the boiling water for a
minute or less, then sliced or torn in half lengthwise. This
will provide the ties for the cabbage rolls.
10 dried lily flowers Soak the dried mushrooms and dried lily flowers (see pages 17
(optional) and 16) in hot water until soft and pliable (at least 20 minutes).
6 dried mushrooms Remove and discard the stem section of the mushrooms, and
Hot water to cover pinch off and discard the hard stem end of the lily flowers.
Chop all coarsely.
½ cup bean thread Soak the bean thread in hot water to cover at least 10 minutes.
Hot water to cover Chop coarsely, using ½ cup for this recipe and reserving any
remainder for other recipes.
3 shallots (or white Slice the shallots in thin rounds. Chop the onion coarsely.
part of green onions) Mix the chopped lily flowers, mushrooms, bean thread, shal-
½ medium onion lots, and onion with the ground pork. Add fish sauce, salt and
1 lb. ground pork pepper, and mix thoroughly with the hands, or with a spoon
1 tbsp. fish sauce or fork.
½ tsp. salt
Dash of black pepper
1 egg Break the egg into the mixture and mix in well. This mixture
may also be used for the MEAT LOAF recipe on page 46.
Place about 2 tbsp. meat mixture near the stem end of a
cabbage leaf. Fold the two sides over, then roll lengthwise to
49
 make a roll about 4 inches long. Tie gently with the wilted
green onion tops.
2 tbsp. cooking oil Heat the cooking oil in skillet on medium high heat. Place the
Large heavy skillet cabbage rolls in the skillet close together. Cover and cook 2
with cover minutes on medium high heat. Remove the cover and turn the
rolls, using tongs, chopsticks, or two spoons and working very
gently. Remove from heat if you feel too rushed or awkward.
Cover and cook 2 minutes longer.
1 shallot (or white part Slice shallot and green onion in thin rounds. Make a small
of green onion) space in the middle of the pan, pushing the rolls gently aside.
1 green onion Put in the shallot and green onion and saute a few seconds,
½ cup tomato sauce until the odor rises. Then pour in the tomato sauce and water.
¾ cup water Stir gently around the rolls. Sprinkle fish sauce over the top.
1 tbsp.fishsauce Cover and cook for 2 more minutes. Remove cover and turn
the rolls again. Cover and cook 6 more minutes. The center of
the rolls should be firm when the flat of a spoon is pressed
against the top.
1 tsp. cornstarch Mix the cornstarch and monosodium glutamate into the water,
¼ cup water which will keep the cornstarch from being lumpy. Pour into
Pinch of monosodium the center of the pan, and stir around the rolls gently. This will
glutamate not make a thick sauce, but it will be thicker than just plain
water. Cook 2 more minutes. The total cooking time after the
first water is added should be about 10 minutes.
TO SERVE Serve with rice. Be sure to serve the gravy with the rolls, to
pour over the rice. If desired, the rolls can be sliced in half,
across the middle. Wait until slightly cooled and it will be
easier to slice the rolls without tearing them.
SUGGESTION If you want to serve fewer people, save out a portion of the
meat mixture, add another egg or two to it (depending on how
much is reserved—a total of 3 or 4 eggs for the entire recipe),
and steam in a small bowl for another meal. See VIETNAMESE
MEAT LOAF, page 46.

STUFFED CUCUMBER SLICES About six servings

This is a fancy-looking, elegant-tasting, and easy-to-make dish.
10 dried lily flowers Soak mushrooms and dried lilyflowersin warm water to cover
(optional) about 15 minutes. Drain; discard tough stem portion of
5 dried mushrooms mushrooms and pinch off hard stem end of lily flowers. Chop
Warm water to cover coarsely.
½ of 2-oz. pkg. bean Soak bean thread in warm water to cover about 15 minutes.
thread Drain and chop coarsely.
Warm water to cover
½ lb. fairly lean Ask the butcher to grind fresh ham or shoulder, about ¼ fat
ground pork and ¾ lean. The best, however, is chopped at home with a
1 green onion very sharp knife. Chop the green onion fine and mix with the
1 tbsp.fishsauce pork, together with the fish sauce, salt and pepper. Mix in the
½ tsp. salt chopped mushrooms and bean thread. Let the mixture stand
Dash of pepper to season at room temperature about 20 minutes; if refriger-
ated, about an hour.
50
1 egg Break the egg into the meat mixture and mix in well.
2 large, fat cucumbers Peel the cucumbers and cut into ¾-inch rounds. Hollow out
the center and seeds of each round, leaving just the outer core.
Fill in the hole, all the way through, with the meat mixture,
rounding it up slightly on both sides and packing firmly.
2 tbsp. cooking oil Preheat the oil, and fry the stuffed cucumbers, on medium heat,
Heavy skillet about 5 minutes on each side, turning occasionally, to brown.
Be sure the center is done.
SAUCE Crush the garlic, make a small space and add to the center of
1 clove garlic the skillet. Fry a few seconds, until the odor rises.
½ cup water Mix the water, monosodium glutamate and cornstarch, so it
¼ tsp. cornstarch won't get lumpy, then pour into the skillet. Stir gently so it will
Dash of monosodium go around the cucumber slices. Cook for a few seconds, then
glutamate turn the cucumbers over. When the sauce gets translucent,
turn off the heat.
SAUCE VARIATION As a slightly more spicy substitute for the sauce above, mix
¼ cup tomato sauce the tomato sauce, water, monosodium glutamate, and the
½ cup water cornstarch so it won't get lumpy. Pour the mixture into the
1 tsp. cornstarch skillet and stir gently so it will go around the cucumber slices.
Dash of monosodium Cook a few seconds and turn all the cucumbers over. When
glutamate the sauce thickens slightly, turn off the heat.
TO SERVE Serve hot, with rice. Can be refrigerated and reheated, but do
not try to freeze—the cucumbers will get soggy. This is best
served as soon as it is cooked.

STUFFED TOMATO Four or five servings

This may be steamed or fried, and makes an elegantly different party dish.
5 large tomatoes, or Cut out the stem end of the tomatoes and gently scoop out the
7 smaller ones center portion of the meat and seeds. Set aside.
STUFFING Soak the mushrooms about 10 minutes in warm water to cover.
3 dried mushrooms Drain well. Cut away and discard the stems. Slice and chop the
Water to cover mushrooms into fine pieces.
¼ of a 2-oz. pkg. bean Soak the bean thread in warm water to cover at least 10
thread minutes, and drain well. Chop coarsely.
Warm water to cover
2 shallots (or white Slice the shallots into thin rounds. Combine with the ground
part of green onions) pork. Add the mushrooms, the bean thread, salt, pepper, and
½ lb. ground lean pork fish sauce. Mix together thoroughly.
¼ tsp. salt
Dash of pepper
1 tbsp. fish sauce
1 egg Break the egg into the pork mixture, and mix in well. It is much
easier to get all ingredients combined well if the mixing is done
with a kneading motion with the hands, much as one would
knead dough.
TO STUFF Stuff the pork mixture into the center of the tomatoes, stuff-
ing firmly but gently and smoothing the top into a heaping
mound.
51
TO STEAM Place the stuffed tomatoes, stuffing side up, on a heat-
Steamer resistant flat dish in the top section of a steamer. Bring water to
(see page 10) boil in the bottom of the steamer, set the top in place, cover,
and steam over medium high heat until done (about 30 min-
utes). The pork should be cooked all the way through.
TO FRY Heat the oil in the skillet, on medium heat. Place the stuffed
3 tbsp. oil tomatoes, gently, with spatula, large spoon, or hands in the
Heavy skillet with lid skillet with the stuffing side down. Cover lightly—but be sure
plenty of air can get in so the tomato skins won't split open too
much. Saute on medium high heat about 4 or 5 minutes. Turn
the tomatoes, using a spatula and large spoon. Be very gentle
and work slowly, to avoid breaking the skin and making every-
thing come apart. Remove from heat, if you prefer. Saute on
medium high heat another 2 or 3 minutes. Reduce heat to low
and allow to stay warm until done (about 10 to 15 minutes).
TO SERVE Can be served "Western style" as a main dish, with rice and a
salad. The Vietnamese style is to place a tomato in a deep rice
bowl, and add rice on top, eating with chopsticks.

NOODLE SALAD-SOUP (MI QUANG) Four servings

This delightful dish is a combination of main dish, soup, and salad. It can be cooked
and served with many variations, but the end product is always hearty and a real
challenge to a weak appetite. The version described in the basic recipe below is a
regional dish from South Central Vietnam, south of Hue. Other versions, with beef
and chicken, are given on pages 62 and 84.
½ cup tiny dried Soak the dried shrimp in warm water about 10 minutes or
shrimp more, until they begin to soften slightly. Drain just before
Warm water to cover adding to soup.
(optional: substitute
½ tsp. monosodium
glutamate)
1 lb. pork belly (or ¾ Use pork belly for this recipe. It is striped meat, some fat, lean.
lb. pork belly and ¼ Cut it into thin ( inch) slices about 2 inches x ½ inch, across
lb. pork liver) the grain, with some fat and some lean in each piece. Chop the
2 green onions green onion in small pieces. If desired, ¼ pound liver may be
used for flavor.
2 tbsp. cooking oil Heat the oil in the pot and saute the pork and onion on medium
3-qt. pot heat about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.
1 tsp. salt Add salt and the soaked and drained dried shrimp, stir well,
and cook for another 5 minutes on medium heat, stirring
occasionally.
1 tsp. Chinese shrimp Mix the Chinese shrimp sauce with the water, and add to the
sauce (optional) soup. Stir well and cook about 2 more minutes. Since many
(substitute: pinch of people dislike the smell, and some also dislike the taste, of the
52
 monosodium glut- Chinese shrimp sauce, another ½ tsp. of salt and a pinch of
amate and ½tsp. monosodium glutamate may be substituted. The shrimp sauce
salt) is quite salty, so the substitution is for that attribute alone—the
½cup water flavor and odor are simply omitted.
3 large tomatoes Cut the tomatoes in sixths and add to the soup; cook another
two minutes, stirring occasionally.
2 cups water Add the water, bring to a boil, then add the fish sauce. Stir well,
1 tbsp. fish sauce and cook another minute.
Dash of black pepper Add the black pepper (coarsely ground is better), stir, and
remove the soup from the heat. Keep warm until served.

OTHER INGREDI- If the fresh noodles are available, use them. If fresh noodles are
ENTS not available, substitute the dried Chinese rice noodles called
½lb. fresh or dried look fun, or the Chinese "rice sticks" called sha ho fun. Be
rice noodles careful about cooking the dried noodles—some brands have
(Chinese look fun, misleading English directions on the package! Soak the dried
page 17) noodles for two hours in warm water to cover. Bring 6 cups of
water to a boil, drain the noodles and add to the boiling water.
Bring to a boil again, and boil for 5 minutes. Drain immedi-
ately, and rinse under running cool water to separate the
noodles and keep them from getting sticky. The dried noodles
usually come cut in the proper size, but the fresh noodles
should be cut into strips about 3 or 4 inches long, and about ½
inch wide. Set aside.
¼cup fresh bean Wash and drain the bean sprouts, lettuce, Chinese parsley, and
sprouts mint leaves. Slice the cucumber into - i n c hrounds,then cut
½cucumber into narrow strips. This is the salad portion of the dish; set
6 or 7 lettuce leaves aside for later use.
½cup Chinese parsley
¼cup fresh mint
leaves
1 oz. pkg. corn chips This is a substitute for a very similar Vietnamese food item
made of rice. Crush the corn chips coarsely, and set aside for
later.
½cup roasted Chop the peanuts coarsely, just before serving. Be sure to use
(salted) peanuts the "dust" in the bottom of the container, too, because much of
the nice flavor is there.
3 tbsp. cooking oil Chop the green onions fine, tops and all. Place in a heat
2 green onions resistant bowl or small pan. Heat the cooking oil, and pour
over the chopped onions. Let stand until slightly cool.
TO SERVE Gather together all the bowls and pots of ingredients, and
4 deep soup bowls combine in the following order: In the bottom of each soup
bowl place ¼ of the salad mixture. Over that, put ¼ of the
cooked noodles. Then ladle a nice generous helping of soup
with lots of meat over the noodles. On top, sprinkle the corn
chips and peanuts, and pour 1 tbsp. onion oil over the top of
each bowl. Serve with chopsticks, and soup spoons.
EATING INSTRUC- With chopsticks, mix everything together, but only as much as
TIONS individual taste dictates. Eat the meat, noodles, salad greens,
etc., with chopsticks, and drink the soup with a spoon. If
seconds are desired, have some more soup!
53
PORK SHRIMP AND VEGETABLE PANCAKE-OMELET (Banh Xeo)
This very Vietnamese dish is hard even to name in English! Banh is a very general
word, meaning any bread, cake, cookie, or pancake type of food. Xeo is the noise
that the thin batter makes when it is poured into the hot pan. But there are a lot of
other ingredients, and the final product is most memorable. Six servings.
THE BATTER Mix thericeflour, water, and coconut milk to form a basic very
1 cup rice flour thin batter. Stir in the sugar, or use CARAMELIZED SUGAR
2 cups water SYRUP, page 27, to make the cooked pancake crunchy. Add
½ cup coconut milk some saffron, to give the batter a tiny touch of color. And
(page 26) finally gently mix in the finely chopped green onion tops for
1 tbsp. sugar both color and flavor. Especially color. After the first pancake
1 tsp. saffron is cooked, if the batter seems too thin add 1 or 2 tbsp. plain
½ to 1 cup finely flour. If too thick, add a little more water. It should be very,
chopped green onion very thin and runny.
tops
½ lb. pork belly Slice the pork belly very thin ( inch), in small pieces (1x2
1 medium onion inches or less). Slice the onion very thin.
½ lb. dried mungo This type of dried bean is usually bought already skinless and
beans (optional, but halved in Vietnam. When found outside Vietnam, though, the
with a definite change beans must be soaked overnight in lots of water to soften them.
of flavor if omitted) Then next day, drain and rinse under cool running water, rub-
bingfirmlybetween the hands to remove the outer skin. Cover
the soaked, rinsed beans with water and the loosened skins will
float to the top, where they can be poured off. This may have
to be repeated several times, to remove as much of the outer
skin as possible.
Pot with cover Put the rinsed beans in a pot, and put enough water in to cover
Water to a depth of two inches. Bring to a boil, on high, and let boil
about 1 minute, not more.
Drain off all the water, leaving the beans in the pot. Put the pot
of drained beans back on lowest heat and let cook until dry,
for about 30 minutes. Then it is ready to use.
12 fresh (frozen) white Thaw shrimp, if frozen. Hull shrimp and clean out the black
shrimp vein along the back. Using a very sharp knife, slice each shrimp
into 3 thin lengthwise slices.
MAKING THE Preheat the oil on high heat. To make the first pancake: Put
OMELET in 3 or 4 slices of the pork and 3 or 4 slices of onion. Saute on
Heavy skillet high heat, stirring constantly, about 1 minute. Add 2 or 3 pieces
2 tbsp. cooking oil of shrimp and cook, stirring, for another few seconds.
Pour ½ cup of the batter over the pork, shrimp, and onion. This
is when it makes the sound xeo.
1 lb. fresh bean sprouts Drop a handful of fresh bean sprouts over the top of the "pan-
cake" and scatter 2 tbsp. of the soaked and cooked mungo
beans over the top.
2 eggs Mix the eggs together thoroughly, then mix in the water. Drib-
2 tbsp. water ble 2 tbsp. of this mixture around the outer edge of the pancake.
All of the preceding four steps should have been done rapidly.
After the pancake has cooked only a few seconds, cover the
skillet and let it continue to cook on medium heat about 1
54
 minute. Uncover the skillet, and fold the pancake in half, with
a spatula.
Put the pieces of pork and onion for the next pancake in the
exposed half of the skillet, adding a small amount of cooking
oil if necessary. Continue to cook for another ½ minute.
Remove the first pancake-omelet to a warm plate, and the
second one is already under way. Begin with the step where the
shrimp is added and continue from there. Repeat until all the
ingredients are gone. The first Banh Xeo is usually slightly
burned and generally not as nice as the others, just as often
happens with pancakes.
TO SERVE Serve hot, with leaf lettuce, fresh mint leaves, Chinese parsley,
Nuoc Mam Sauce thin sliced cucumbers, and individual small bowls of Nuoc
Chinese parsley MAM SAUCE (page 23). Each individual may be served a whole
Fresh mint leaves pancake, or only a part. To eat, wrap a portion of pancake in
Thin slices of cucumber a lettuce leaf with mint, Chinese parsley and cucumber, and
Leaf lettuce dip in the sauce.

PORK OMELET Four servings

This omelet is a colorful, quick and inexpensive dish that makes a good main course
for a simple meal. It bears only a passing resemblance to Egg Foo Yung. It is an
easy extra dish when leftovers don't stretch quite far enough, or an unexpected
guest arrives just at meal time.
1 green onion Chop the green onion into ¼-inch pieces. Seed the tomato and
1 large tomato chop coarsely. Add half the chopped onion to the tomato and
set aside.
½ lb. ground pork Add the other half of the chopped green onion to the pork. Add
Dash of black pepper salt and sprinkle with pepper. Mix.
¼ tsp. salt
Medium skillet Heat the oil in skillet, on high heat. Add the pork mixture,
1 tsp. cooking oil reduce the heat to medium, and saute with occasional stir-
ring until the pork changes color. This will take 3 to 5 minutes.
Add the chopped tomato and onion, stir well, and let the
mixture continue to cook on medium high heat another 1 to 2
minutes. Remove from heat and let cool a few minutes.
5 to 8 eggs The number of eggs to use will depend on the size of the eggs,
1 tbsp.fishsauce the size of the appetites, and the size of the meal. Beat the eggs
with a fork until thoroughly mixed, but the white should still
be ropy. Add the fish sauce, and stir until mixed in.
10-inch iron skillet, or Heat the cooking oil on high heat until it smokes. Add the
other heavy skillet, cooked pork mixture to the eggs, and pour all into the slightly
or omelet pan. (If a smoking skillet. Reduce heat immediately to medium. With a
large skillet is not spatula, push through the mixture to the skillet bottom, lifting
available, make two slightly so that the uncooked liquid portion can run through to
batches in a smaller the bottom. Continue this poking and lifting all over the
skillet.) bottom of the pan, but gently, while the mixture cooks for
1 tsp. cooking oil about one minute or so. Reduce the heat to low, and let the
55
 omelet sit in the skillet undisturbed about 5 minutes. It should
be firm, slightly brown on the bottom, but still soft on top.
Fold in half with a spatula, soft top sides together, and remove
gently to a warm plate.
TO SERVE Serve with rice, a salad, and a soup if desired. A side dish of
Nuoc Mam Sauce Nuoc MAM SAUCE (page 23) should be served as an accompa-
Leaf lettuce niment to be used to individual taste. Leaf lettuce, Chinese
Chinese parsley parsley, and mint leaves are especially good with this.
Mint leaves

56
 BEEF MAIN DISHES
BEEF IS NOT WIDELY USED IN VIETNAM, and tender beef is considered quite a delicacy.
The best cuts of beef for use in these recipes will be the chuck blade roast (lower
part of the chuck, with only the small shoulder blade bone) when it is well marbled
with fat; or sirloin steak. If your butcher does not advertise chuck blade roast, ask
for it. He will know what you want.
Beef is normally cut in very thin slices, in bite sized pieces, and will be cooked a
very, very short time. It is best to leave the beef slightly pink, so that it will be
tender, when it is being sauteed. When beef is boiled, it should be put in at the last
minute just before the dish is served; tough beef is not considered a delicacy!

BEEF STEW (THIT BO KHO) Four servings

A hearty dish, and so appetizing that weight-watchers should beware. Every time
I cook this, we all get fat! But it is worth the price, occasionally.
2 lb. stewing beef Cut the stewing beef into 2-inch cubes. Crush the citronella
2 fresh citronella roots roots. If citronella is unavailable, substitute 3 knobs of fresh
(optional) or reconstituted dried ginger root sliced thin. Crush the shal-
2 shallots (or white lots.
part of green onions)
Heavy pot with cover Heat the oil in the heavy pot, and put in the beef, crushed citro-
1 tbsp. cooking oil nella, and crushed shallots. Sprinkle with the salt and pepper.
1 tbsp. salt Saute over high heat about 2 minutes, stirring constantly.
3 pinches of black
pepper
2 qts. water Break up the cinnamon and add, with water and fish sauce, to
1 tbsp.fishsauce the beef in the pot. Bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the
4-inch stick of cinna- heat to simmer, cover, and cook on low heat until beef is tender
mon (about 2 or 3 hours).
About ten minutes before serving, add tomato paste and stir
1½ tbsp. tomato paste well. Use Spanish-style tomato paste.
Serve hot, with rice, spaghetti, or noodles. This is also good
TO SERVE reheated—if there is any left over. It can also be frozen.

SESAME, BAMBOO, AND BEEF Six servings

Both bamboo and sesame seed are much used in Oriental cookery. This dish, com-
bining the two, is especially good.
57
½ lb. top sirloin (or Slice the beef into thin (-inch) pieces, about 1 inch wide and
other similar beef) 2 inches long. Slice against the grain, so it will be tender when
cooked.
2 tbsp. cooking oil Heat the cooking oil in the skillet, on high heat. Add the beef
Heavy skillet slices and saute until beef just begins to turn gray (about 1
minute). It should still be mostly pink. Remove from skillet and
set aside. Overcooking will make the beef tough, and it gets
cooked more later in the recipe.
1 large can and 1 small Be sure to use canned Chinese bamboo shoots. Shred the bam-
can bamboo shoots boo shoots into matchstick-size pieces. Slice the shallot in thin
(about 2 cups shred- rounds.
ded bamboo)
1 shallot (or -white part
of green onion)
2 tbsp. cooking oil Heat the cooking oil in the same skillet used to saute the beef.
1 tbsp.fishsauce Add the shallot and saute, stirring, on medium heat about half
¼ tsp. salt a minute. Add the bamboo shoots, salt, andfishsauce and con-
tinue to saute on medium heat about 6 minutes, stirring occa-
sionally.
2 small cloves garlic Crush the garlic and add to the mixture in the skillet. Stir well
to mix. Continue to saute on medium high heat another min-
ute, stirring occasionally. Return beef to the skillet.
3 heaping tbsp. crushed Roast the sesame seed (see page 19) and crush slightly with
sesame seed mortar and pestle to bring out all the flavor. They should be
roasted and crushed just before using. Add to the bamboo
shoots and beef, stir well and cook just a few seconds. Remove
from heat immediately.
TO SERVE Serve hot, with rice and green salad. This can be reheated be-
fore serving. Can be refrigerated for several days, and re-
heated; or frozen for future use.

BEEF AND SQUASH Four servings

In Vietnam the Chinese see kwa squash is used in this recipe. Zucchini squash is
different in flavor, but a very acceptable substitute. A hearty dish.
Cut the onion into four pieces. Cut the green onions into 2-inch
2 green onions lengths, tops and all. Slice the beef thin (¼ -inch) against the
1 lb. (or less) chuck grain, so it will be tender, in pieces about 1 by 3 inches.
blade roast
1 tbsp. cooking oil Heat the oil in the heavy skillet, on high heat. Saute the onion
Large heavy skillet and green onion about half a minute on high heat then add the
sliced beef. Saute, stirring, on high heat a minute or less—just
until the beef begins to turn gray but is mostly still pink. Re-
move from the skillet and set aside.
2 large zucchini squash Peel the squash, leaving on a few narrow strips of skin for
(a substitute for color. Cut into slightly larger thanfinger-sizechunks about 2
Chinese see kwaj or 3 inches long. Set aside.
1 2-oz. pkg. (or less) Soak the bean thread in warm water to cover at least 10 min-
bean thread utes. Drain before using, and chop into 4 or 5 inch lengths,
Warm water to cover using shears or a heavy knife.
58
1 clove garlic Using the same skillet, heat the oil on high heat. Crush the
2 tbsp. cooking oil garlic and saute on high heat a few seconds, until the odor
rises. Add the zucchini squash and stir. Reduce the heat to
medium and cover. Saute about 1 minute, removing the cover
to stir several times.
½ cup water Mix the water, salt, and fish sauce together and add to the
¼ tsp. salt squash. Stir well, cover and continue to cook on medium heat
1 tbsp.fishsauce about 5 minutes. Squash should be tender but not too soft. Add
the drained bean thread and stir well.
1 scant tsp. cornstarch Mix the cornstarch with the water, to keep it from getting
¼ cup water lumpy. Add to the squash and stir lightly. Add the sauteed beef,
Dash of black pepper stir, and cook just a few seconds. Remove from heat, so the
beef won't get tough and the squash won't get soft.
TO SERVE Serve hot with rice and a salad. Can be served as an accom-
paniment to another main dish. This is best served right from
the stove. It can be reheated, but the meat might get tough. Not
too good frozen—the squash disintegrates and the beef
toughens.

BEEF AND BAMBOO SAUTE Four servings

This is amazingly fast to prepare and will disappear almost as fast when it is served.
½ lb. beef sirloin Slice the beef thin (-inch) against the grain, in pieces about 1
1 shallot (or white part inch wide and 2 or 3 inches long. Slice the shallot in thin
of green onion) rounds.
1 tbsp. cooking oil Heat the oil in the skillet on high heat. Put in the beef and the
Large heavy skillet the shallot and saute, stirring, about 1 minute. If cooked longer
1 tbsp.fishsauce the meat will get tough. The beef will begin to change color but
be mostly pink. Remove from skillet, addfishsauce to the beef,
stir well, and set aside.
15-oz. can bamboo Be sure to get Chinese bamboo shoots—the flavor is better for
shoots this dish. Slice the bamboo shoots thin (-inch), in pieces 1 or
2 inches wide and 2 or 3 inches long. Because of the shape of
the bamboo shoots, the pieces will be quite irregular in shape.
2 tbsp. cooking oil In the same skillet used to saute the beef, heat the cooking oil
on high heat. Add the bamboo shoots and saute on high heat,
stirring, about 1 minute.
1 clove garlic Crush the clove of garlic, make a space in the center of the
¼ tsp. salt skillet and drop it in. Sprinkle the salt over. When the garlic
begins to give out with a garlicky smell, after a few seconds, add
the beef and stir well.
¼ cup water Mix the water and cornstarch, and pour into the beef and bam-
1 tsp. cornstarch boo mixture. Stir well, cook a few seconds until the juice
thickens slightly and remove from heat. Do not overcook—the
meat gets tough if cooked too long.
TO SERVE Serve hot with rice, soup, and salad. This may be reheated, but
is best freshly cooked. If frozen, thaw before warming.
59
BEEF AND GREEN BEAN SAUTE Four servings
This is another quick-and-easy, nutritious dish that is good served as a main dish
for a light meal, or as a side dish at a heavier dinner.
2 lb. fresh green beans Wash the green beans and slice each bean in half lengthwise,
(substitute: 2 pkg. then into 2 or 3 inch lengths. (If desired, frozen French-cut
frozen French-cut beans may be used.) The beans will not be as sweet or as crisp,
green beans) though. If using frozen beans, defrost slightly before using, and
add directly to the beef in the skillet, omitting the step follow-
ing this one.
Large skillet Bring the water and salt to a boil in the skillet and add the
4 cups water fresh beans. Bring to a boil again, remove from heat and drain
1 tsp. salt in a colander immediately. Set aside. Omit this step if using
frozen beans.
1 lb. beef sirloin or Slice the beef thin (¼-inch) across the grain in pieces about 2
chuck blade roast inches square. Slice the shallots in thin rounds.
2 shallots (or white
part of green onions)
2 tbsp. cooking oil In the same skillet used to blanch the beans, heat the oil. Put in
the sliced beef and shallots and saute, stirring constantly, on
high heat for about one minute, or until the beef begins to
change color but is still partly pink. Do not overcook. Remove
from the skillet and set aside.
2 tbsp. cooking oil Using the same skillet, heat more cooking oil on high heat. Put
in the drained beans, reduce the heat to medium and cook about
one minute, stirring occasionally.
½ tsp. salt Add the salt, stir well, and cook one more minute.
1 clove garlic Crush the garlic well. Make a vacant spot in the middle of the
skillet where the beans are cooking and drop in the garlic. Cook
a few seconds, or until you can smell the garlic odor, then stir
in. Continue to cook 3 minutes, on medium heat, stirring occa-
sionally.
1 tbsp. fish sauce Add the fish sauce, stir well.
Add the cooked beef, stir well, and remove from heat. Should
be served immediately.
TO SERVE Serve hot, with rice. Can be reheated, but the beef will get
tough and the beans soggy. Reheat by saute method, on high
heat, stirring for a minute or so, just until hot.

VIETNAMESE BEEF AND CABBAGE Four servings

This is quite a switch on the corned beef and cabbage familiar to so many in the
Western world. It takes only a few minutes to prepare, and the cabbage doesn't
have time to get limp, much less begin to smell like cooked cabbage. A good quick
dinner, and not expensive to prepare.
60
½ lb. chuck blade roast Cut beef in thin ( - i n c h ) slices, about 1 inch wide and 2
inches long.
1 shallot (or white Slice shallot in thin rounds and add to the beef.
part of green onion)
Large skillet Heat the cooking oil on high heat, then saute the beef and
1 tbsp. cooking oil shallot, stirring constantly until the beef begins to change color
but is still mostly pink (about one minute). Remove from the
skillet and set aside.
1 medium-size head of Cut the cabbage in half or fourths, remove the hard part of the
cabbage stem, then cut fine (or shred) as for cabbage slaw.
1 tbsp. cooking oil Heat the oil in the same skillet, and saute the cabbage, stirring
constantly, on medium heat for 2 minutes.
1 clove garlic Crush the garlic, chop fine, and stir into the cabbage.
1 or 2 fresh tomatoes Cut the tomato in sixths. Stir into the cabbage, reduce the heat
to medium low, and continue to cook 1 minute.
Stir in the beef.
1 tbsp. fish sauce Add the fish sauce and salt, continue to stir on medium heat
¼ tsp. salt about half a minute.
¼ cup water Mix the water and cornstarch, then stir into the beef and cab-
½ tsp. cornstarch bage. This gives a soupy gravy. Turn the heat to high, stir for
about half a minute and remove from heat.
TO SERVE Serve hot, with rice, and a salad. Can be refrigerated and re-
heated. Leftovers can be frozen, but the meat will not be so
tender and the cabbage will be limp. If frozen, thaw before
reheating.

NOODLES WITH SLICED BEEF (SAUTE) Four servings

This is a variation of the preceding recipe, and it is another good one-dish meal. It
should be served with all ingredients cold except the sauteed beef strips, which
should be hot.
1 lb. chuck blade roast Trim off the excess fat and slice into thin (about -inch) pieces
approximately 1 x 2 inches.
1 clove of garlic Slice the garlic, onion, and citronella into very thin circles. (If
1 small onion citronella is not available, just omit. There is no substitute, in
1 citronella root this recipe.)
(optional)
2 tbsp. cooking oil Heat the oil, then saute the garlic, onion, and citronella over
Medium-sized skillet high heat about one minute, stirring constantly. Add the sliced
beef, continue to saute and stir over high heat another two
minutes or so. The beef should still be slightly pink in spots but
will mostly have changed its color. Do not overcook—it gets
tough.
TO SERVE Substitute this sauteed beef for the ground beef mixture in the
recipe on page 65, and proceed as directed there.
61
BEEF SOUP-SALAD (PHO BO) About 10 Servings
This one-dish meal is a favorite in North Vietnam, and is the one thing that most
Vietnamese in a foreign country miss the most. It is cooked in large quantities, and
should either be prepared for a crowd or refrigerated and served as leftovers. The
final step is completed rapidly, bowl by bowl for each individual serving and can be
done at the table with an electric soup pot, or on an electric hotplate on the buffet.
Be sure to have all the slicing done in advance. Variations of this recipe using
chicken and pork are on pages 84 and 52.
10 lbs. soup bones and Put the bones and ribs in the large soup pot and cover with
beef ribs with meat water—fill the pot almost full, leaving room for boiling. Add
Very large soup pot the salt.
1½ tbsp. salt
Water to cover and
more
2 large onions Chop the onions coarsely. Crush the cinnamon stick. Slice the
1 cinnamon stick ginger root in thin rounds. Add all to the soup pot.
1 fresh ginger root,
about 3 inches long
(optional)
Put the pot on high heat and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to
low and simmer all day, or all night, if you have to work during
the day. Add more water, if necessary, because lots of it will
boil away.
3 green onions Cut the green onions in 4-inch lengths, including tops. Put into
the soup about 1 hour before serving.
1 pkg. Chinese noodles If fresh noodles are available, slice in ½-inch wide strips. If
(look fun, page 17) dried noodles are used, soak the dry noodles for 2 hours in
warm water to cover. Then boil about 5 minutes, or until ten-
der. Be sure the noodles are cooked before beginning the fol-
lowing steps—you just warm them up, at serving time.
SERVING DIREC- Get everything ready, and ask people to come and be served
TIONS before starting to do the cooking in the following steps. Be sure
Deep soup bowls all the slicing is done, and every thing is laid out ready to serve.
Chopsticks If each person watches his serving being prepared, he can pre-
Soup spoons pare his own seconds—most people think it is great fun!
1 lb. fresh bean sprouts Mix the cooked noodles with the bean sprouts. Bring the water
Large pot to a boil in the pot. Put about a cupful of the noodle-bean
3 qts. water sprout mixture in a long-handled strainer and dip into the boil-
Long-handled strainer ing water for about a minute—just to blanch the bean sprouts
and warm the noodles. Put in the bottom of an individual soup
bowl.
3 large tomatoes Cut the tomatoes in half, from the stem end down, then slice
3 large onions thin across. Cut the onion the same way, slicing very thin.
1 lb. chuck blade roast Slice the beef thin (-inch), in pieces about ½ inch wide and 1
or sirloin (tender) or 2 inches long. Place all these on a plate or platter, arranged
sepapately. Better have reserves if you have people with large
appetites!
Large ladle Put a few pieces of the beef, a couple of slices of tomato and a
Chopsticks couple of slices of onion in the large ladle. Immerse the ladle
62
 into the boiling soup, stir gently with the chopsticks for a min-
ute or less—just until the beef begins to change color. It should
still be pink. Then lift out the ladle, soup and all, and pour over
the noodles and bean sprouts.
Chinese parsley Garnish with Chinese parsley, and put in about a teaspoonful
Fish sauce of fish sauce, if needed, for salty flavor.
Fish sauce Serve with a side dish (small) of fish sauce to be used to add
Lime or lemon salty flavor according to individual taste. Serve large slices of
Chili pepper lime or lemon and small shreds of fresh chili pepper, for indi-
vidual garnish.

BEEF SAUTE AND STEAMED BREAD Four servings

This is a kind of Vietnamese sandwich. In Vietnam where French bread has been
much used for many years, this easy dish is very popular. Any type of white bread
may be used.
12 slices of white bread See page 10 for detailed instructions on the use of the steamer,
(French, or sand- and substitutes if you do not have one. Put the slices of bread
wich) in the top part of the steamer, not packed tightly, but arranged
Steamer loosely, lying flat, so the steam can circulate between the
pieces. Put over boiling water in the steamer bottom, cover
and steam for about 5 minutes. Leave in the steamer, covered,
until ready to serve. The bread should be soft enough to roll up
without breaking, and should be warm when served.
1 lb. tender beef Slice the beef thin ( - i n c h ) in pieces about 1 inch wide and 2
(sirloin or chuck inches long. Cut the citronella root in thin rounds. If substitu-
blade roast) ginger, chop very fine. Slice the garlic cloves in paper-thin
2 citronella roots rounds. Cut the onion in half from stem end down, then slice
(substitute ginger thin.
root, or omit)
2 cloves garlic
1 onion (medium size)
Heavy skillet Heat the oil on high heat. Put in the sliced beef, the citronella
2 tbsp. cooking oil or ginger, garlic, and onion and saute on high heat, stirring
constantly, about 2 minutes. Do not overcook—the beef should
still have a few pink spots.
½ cup Onion Oil Put three slices of bread on each individual plate. Pour about 1
(page 28) tsp. of Onion Oil over each slice of bread. Then divide the
½ cup roasted peanuts cooked beef mixture into four parts and put one fourth over the
(salted or unsalted) bread on each plate. Chop the peanuts coarsely and sprinkle
over the top.
TO SERVE Serve hot, with individual small bowls for the Nuoc Mam
Leaf lettuce Sauce dip. Eating instructions should be given in advance. This
Chinese parsley is eaten with the hands, like a sandwich. Roll up a slice of
Fresh mint leaves bread, with the beef mixture inside, along with some Chinese
Nuoc Mam Sauce parsley and mint leaves. Then wrap the slice in a lettuce leaf,
dip into Nuoc MAM SAUCE (page 23), and eat.
63
NOODLES WITH BEEF AND VEGETABLES Four servings
Measure the vegetables after slicing or cutting.
1 cup (loose pack) Cut the cabbage into medium-sized pieces. If Chinese cabbage
Chinese cabbage (or is used, slice the stem pieces also. Cut the carrot in long slices,
plain head cabbage) about -inch thick and 2 or 3 inches long. Cut the cauliflower
1 carrot flowerets in halves or thirds. Try to get similar sizes. The
1 cup (loose pack) Chinese peas (or French-cut green beans) may be fresh or
cauliflower frozen.
½ cup Chinese peas
(or French cut green
beans)
Deep pot Bring the water to a boil in the deep pot, put in all the vegetables
¼ tsp. salt and the salt and bring to a boil once more. After it boils again,
3 cups water start timing and cook about 2 minutes. Remove from heat and
drain well. The vegetables should be almost dry when used in
the following steps. Boiling quickly brings out the flavor of the
vegetables and makes it easy to saute a short time and yet have
them tender. Reserve the water used to boil the vegetables. It
is good in soup.
1 lb. top sirloin (or Slice beef against the grain so it will be tender. Cut into thin
other similar beef) ( - i n c h ) strips, about 1 x 2 inches. Slice the shallot and onion
1 shallot (or white part in thin rounds.
of a green onion)
½ medium-sized onion
2 tbsp. cooking oil Heat the cooking oil in the skillet, on high heat. Saute the onion
Large skillet and shallot, stirring, about ½ minute—just until limp, but not
brown. Add the beef and saute on high heat, to turn gray. It
should still be slightly pink. If it is overcooked it will be tough.
Take the beef out of the skillet and set aside.
1 shallot (or white part Slice the shallot in thin rounds. Cut the mushrooms in half, or
of a green onion) in quarters if larger ones are used. Cut the celery in angled
6 medium large mush- slices, about 1 or 2 inches long.
rooms
1 stalk celery
2 tbsp. cooking oil Heat the oil in the same skillet used to saute the beef. Saute the
shallot about ½ minute, on high heat, stirring. Then add the
mushrooms and celery and saute, stirring constantly about 2
more minutes.
¼ tsp. salt Add the salt, fish sauce, and chicken broth or plain water to the
2 tbsp. fish sauce vegetables in the skillet. Bring to a boil, over high heat, then
1 cup chicken broth (or add the beef and stir well to mix. Let the mixture boil just about
substitute water) 1 minute then remove from heat. Keep warm until served.
Dash ofmonosodium
glutamate
½ pkg. look fun Soak the noodles 2 hours, or until soft. Bring to a boil and boil
noodles (page 17) 5 minutes. Drain and rinse with cold running water to cool and
2 qts. warm water separate the noodles. Drain well in a colander.
3 tbsp. cooking oil Heat the cooking oil in the large skillet, and saute the noodles
Large heavy skillet on high heat about 5 minutes, stirring gently with a spatula or
chopsticks. Keep everything scraped loose from the bottom.
64
 There should be some slightly crisped portions. Keep warm
until served.
TO SERVE Divide the noodles into fourths, and place each fourth in a
4 deep bowls deep Chinese noodle bowl, a soup bowl, or other deep dish.
Nuoc Mam Sauce Spoon the beef mixture over the top. Each person stirs his own
portion to mix. Serve with a side dish of Nuoc MAM SAUCE
(page 23) for seasoning.

NOODLES WITH GROUND BEEF Four servings

This is a one-bowl meal, very good for hot weather when served with all ingredients
cold. For a variation using sliced beef, see the following recipe.
1 small onion Chop the onion and the Chinese yam very fine. Heat the oil in
1 medium Chinese yam skillet and saute, over high heat, the chopped onion and yam,
(substitute: kohlrabi, with the ground beef, stirring constantly until done (about 5
page 13) minutes; do not overcook). Sprinkle black pepper on top after
½ lb. ground beef cooked. May be served hot or cold.
1 tbsp. cooking oil
Dash of black pepper
2-qt. pot If you can't find the Japanese somen noodles anywhere, narrow
1 pkg. somen noodles American-style noodles may be substituted. But the dish will
(page 18) be different. Cook the noodles in boiling water about 5 to 8
4 cups boiling water minutes.
Be sure to lower the heat to medium after noodles begin to boil
so the pot won't bubble over. No salt or other seasoning,
please. When tender, drain in a colander and rinse with cold
water until noodles are cool and not sticky. Set aside.
2 cups leaf lettuce Chop lettuce leaves into pieces about 1 inch square. Cut the
½ medium cucumber cucumber lengthwise into about 4 slices, then slice across into
½ cup fresh bean very thin pieces. Wash bean sprouts thoroughly in cold water
sprouts (optional) and drain well. Chop the mint leaves and the Chinese parsley
Fresh mint leaves coarsely. Chinese parsley may be omitted, but don't substitute
Chinese parsley (sev- regular American parsley. The flavor is very different. Mix all
eral sprigs) (page these green vegetables together, like a salad.
13)
4 tbsp. roasted peanuts Chop the peanuts coarsely, just before serving. Be sure to serve
the "dust" also, since that contains much of the flavor and
aroma. Don't use prechopped nuts.
TO SERVE In each of four individual bowls (medium-size soup bowls) put
4 deep soup bowls one-fourth of the mixed vegetables. Divide the cold noodles
into four portions and put on top of the salad. Divide the
cooked meat mixture into four portions and put on top of the
noodles. The meat mixture may be served hot or cold. Every-
thing else should be cold.
4 tbsp. Nuoc Mam Sauce Pour one tbsp. Nuoc MAM SAUCE (page 23) over each serving.
4 tbsp. Onion Oil More may be added according to individual taste. Pour about
one tbsp. of ONION OIL (page 28) over each serving. Sprinkle
the freshly chopped peanuts over the top, and serve.
EATING INSTRbC- Each person stirs his bowlful before eating. If not salty enough,
TIONS add more Nuoc Mam Sauce—never add salt.
65
 SEAFOOD MAIN DISHES
IN THIS CHAPTER are recipes using fish, shrimp, crab, and even an unusual way of
preparing squid. Since Vietnam has such a long seacoast, seafoods are a major item
in the diet. But since the fish and other seafood recipes are among those least liked
by non-oriental foreigners, only a sampling is included in this book.

SHRIMP SAUTE Four servings

This is another real appetite teaser. It is good picnic fare. In Vietnam it is taken on
trips or picnics along with a flat cake of cooked rice—plain boiled rice that has been
patted out into a flat, firm cake and which is sliced into pieces just like bread or
cake when ready to eat.
1 lb. fresh (frozen) Wash the shrimp and remove the shells, leaving one center
white shrimp portion of the shell about ½ to ¾-inch wide on each shrimp.
This keeps each shrimp in the original curved shrimp shape,
keeps them separate and firm, and makes something nice and
crunchy to chew on.
1 tsp. salt Cut the green onions in 2-inch lengths, including the tops. Add
Dash of pepper to the shrimp, with the salt and pepper, and shake well to mix.
2 green onions
Small skillet Slice the pork fat into small, thin pieces. Note that it is easier to
2 tbsp. pork fat (or slice when it is chilled. Use fat trimmings from pork chops,
cooking oil) pork roast, boiled pork, etc., for flavor. If fat is not available,
substitute cooking oil. Fry the fat on high heat, stirring,
about 2 minutes. Reduce heat to medium and cover. Continue
to cook, covered, shaking occasionally to stir, for one more
minute. Remove from heat. If using cooking oil, it should be
preheated.
Add the shrimp mixture to the cooked fat, cover, shake well
to mix, put back on high heat. Cook, stirring, a few seconds.
Reduce heat to medium, cover, and continue to cook about one
minute.
1 tsp. sugar Uncover skillet, stir, add sugar and CARAMEL SYRUP (page 27)
½ tsp. caramel syrup and stir well. Turn on ventilating fan, add fish sauce and stir
1 tbsp. fish sauce well. Cover and cook on medium heat about 10 minutes,
removing cover to stir occasionally.
Remove from heat and keep covered until ready to serve.
TO SERVE Serve with rice. This is salty, so if it is used as a main dish it
should be served with soup. It is especially good with SHRIMP
AND PINEAPPLE SOUP (page 35) — the combination of the
slightly acid pineapple and the salty shrimp is unbeatable.
66
SAFFRON FISH Four servings
A really different type of curry, a wonderful way to serve fish.
1 lb. fresh tuna, sword- Remove bones and skin, and cut fish in small pieces (about ¼-
fish, or other white inch thick, 2 inches square or less).
fish
3 shallots (or white Slice the shallots and the citronella in thin rounds. Combine
part of green onions) with the fish, along with the saffron, salt, fish sauce, and,
2 citronella roots optionally, some chili pepper, If fresh chili pepper is used, chop
(substitute 1 tbsp. fine or crush. Mix together well. Let stand for 20 or 30 minutes
lemon grass powder to season.
or omit)
½ tsp. saffron powder
(substitute turmeric,
or 1 tsp. curry
powder)
½ tsp. salt
1 tsp. fish sauce
Chili pepper to taste
(optional)
Heavy skillet Heat the cooking oil in skillet on high heat. Crush the garlic
2 tbsp. cooking oil clove and saute a few seconds, until the odor rises. Reduce the
1 small clove of garlic heat to medium, add the fish mixture and saute about 2
minutes, stirring gently so the fish will not break.
½ cup coconut milk Add the coconut milk (or heavy cream), and stir gently. Cook
(page 26) (substi- about 2 minutes over medium heat. Remove from heat, and
tute: 3 tbsp. heavy serve warm.
cream)
TO SERVE Serve with rice, a soup, and a salad. Should be spooned over
the rice, with plenty of juice.

SHRIMP A N D BAMBOO STEW Four servings

7 or 8 medium-size Hull the shrimp, wash well, and slice in half lengthwise, re-
fresh (frozen) moving the black vein from the back at the same time.
white shrimp
1 tsp. salt Rub the salt into the shrimp well, then wash thoroughly again.
The salt helps to clean the shrimp.
1-lb. can bamboo Drain the bamboo shoots and slice in varying sizes, about
shoots inch thick.
Deep pot Put the shrimp, bamboo shoots, and all other ingredients in a
4 tbsp. lard (or cooking- deep pot. (Lard is preferred in Vietnam for the flavor it adds.
ing oil) Bring to a boil and cook on high heat, uncovered, about 20
1 tsp. Chinese shrimp minutes.
sauce (page 20)
Dash cayenne pepper
1½ cups water
½ tsp. salt
TO SERVE Serve hot, with rice and green salad.
67
CURRIED SHRIMP Four servings
Curry is popular throughout South and Southeast Asia. This particular curry is
a real taste treat. The combination of flavorings disguise the fishy taste of the
shrimp.
CURR Y FLA VORING The plain curry powder only gives the nice smell and part of the
1 heaping tsp. curry nice color—the other seasonings add the special flavor. This
powder has a much richer color and flavor than is usually seen outside
1 tsp. salt the Far East's traditional curry-eating countries. The paprika
1 tsp. paprika and saffron powder add a richness of color that is missing in
Dash of allspice commercial curry powder. However, even commercial saffron
tsp. (scant) cayenne powder is usually old enough to have lost the strength of its
Dash of black pepper color. In Vietnam the saffron root is ground fresh and it gives
1 tsp. saffron powder a warm golden glow to the curry. Fresh citronella is another
(optional) thing that has no real substitute. It is available in some
1 pinch cinnamon (or 1- cosmopolitan areas, and by all means try to find it; but if you
inch piece stick can't, make the curry anyway.
cinnamon)
I lb. fresh (frozen) Use only white shrimp. Shell and devein the shrimp. To devein,
white shrimp slit the outside back curve of the shrimp with a sharp knife,
about half way through the shrimp. Remove and discard as
much of the black vein as you can get out easily. It is harmless
but some people object to it. The sliced open back will cause
the shrimp to open out when cooked, and it will look nicer
and absorb more of the curry flavor.
1 fresh citronella Slice in thin rounds, then chop well. Add to the shrimp, with
root (optional) the curryflavoringpowder. Omit the citronella if not available.
There is no substitute except powdered lemon grass, which is
also hard to find.
2 shallots (or white Slice the shallots in thin rounds and add to the shrimp.
part of green onions)
Deep pot with lid Heat the oil on high heat, reduce heat to medium and add the
2 tbsp. cooking oil shrimp mixture. Cook on medium heat, stirring, about 5
minutes.
1½ cups cool water Rinse out the container in which you mixed the shrimp and
1 tbsp.fishsauce seasonings, and pour the rinse water into the pot with the
shrimp mixture. Add the fish sauce, and stir well. Increase the
heat to high, bring to a boil, and let boil about 1 minute.
Reduce the heat to medium.
1 tbsp. cornstarch Mix a little of the hot liquid with the cornstarch and blend well,
then add to the shrimp mixture. This will keep the cornstarch
from becoming lumpy. Stir well and cook another minute or
two.
¼ cup coconut milk If fresh coconut milk or frozen coconut milk are not available,
make some coconut milk using the recipe on page 26. Add to
shrimp mixture, stir well, and cook another 5 minutes.
If the sauce is not quite thick enough, add a little more corn-
starch, using the method described above. It should not be
pasty, but should be a little thicker than water.
TO SERVE Serve with lots of rice or noodles, and a green salad if desired.
No other condiments are necessary. Chutney is not eaten with
curry in Vietnam.
68
FRIED SHRIMP IN TOMATO SAUCE Four servings
This makes an excellent hors d'oeuvre, if the shrimp are cut into bite-size pieces;
it is also very popular as a main dish.
2 lb. fresh (frozen) Shell the shrimp, and split along the back so each shrimp may
white shrimp be opened out flat. Use medium-sized shrimp; the small ones
won't be as good.
Colander or strainer Put the shrimp in a colander or strainer and sprinkle the salt
1 tsp. salt over them. Rub the salt in well, to help clean the shrimp. Then
wash under cool running water, rubbing gently with the hands
to clean thoroughly.
½ cup flour Mix the flour, water, sugar, salt and pepper together to form a
½ cup water thin batter.
¼ tsp. sugar
1 tsp. salt
Dash of black pepper
2 green onions Slice the green onions in very thin rounds, including most of
the tops. Add to the thin batter and mix in well.
Put the cleaned shrimp into the batter—just dump them in all
together, and stir gently to be sure that each shrimp gets well
coated with batter. Leave them in the batter until you are
ready to cook them.
Cooking oil Pour enough cooking oil into a heavy skillet or pot to make the
Heavy skillet or pot oil about ¾ inch deep. Heat the fat on high heat. Dip the
shrimp out of the batter with a spoon, dipping out a little extra
batter with each shrimp, and slide gently into the hot fat. Fry
the shrimp on high heat, about 2 or 3 minutes on each side, or
until golden brown. Remove to a wire cake cooler or similar
rack to drain off the excess oil. Reserve, uncovered, until ready
to serve. Note: This thin batter gets crisper and has a better
taste than a thicker batter. If the shrimp are covered, they will
steam and make the batter coating get soggy.

THE SAUCE Slice the pickled leeks in thin slices lengthwise. If leeks are not
5 pickled leeks available, pickled onions may be substituted. Crush the garlic
2 cloves garlic thoroughly.
Deep pot Heat the cooking oil in a deep pot, on high heat. Put in the
3 tbsp. cooking oil pickled leeks and garlic, stir well, and saute on high heat about
1 minute, shaking the pot occasionally. When the garlic odor
begins to rise, go on to the next step.
8-oz. can tomato sauce Add the tomato sauce to the garlic and pickled leeks. Cook on
(Spanish style) high heat, stirring occasionally, about 3 minutes.
1 tsp. cornstarch Mix the cornstarch and water, and add to the sauce. Stir well
1 cup water and continue cooking about 1 minute.
1 tbsp. fish sauce Add the fish sauce, stir and bring to a boil. Remove from heat.

TO SERVE Heat the sauce to a boil, drop in the shrimp and immediately
remove from the heat. Serve in a bowl or on a deep plate,
garnished with lettuce or parsley. Can also be eaten over rice,
or as a cocktail snack.
69
SHRIMP IN TOMATO SAUCE Four servings
1 lb. large red shrimp Shell shrimp, wash clean, and slice open the back about half
way through so the shrimp will open out when cooked. Remove
as much of the vein as possible. It is not harmful, but not
pretty, either.
½ tsp. salt Chop the green onions in 2-inch lengths, tops and all. Mix the
2 green onions onions, salt and pepper with the shrimp and let stand about 10
Dash of black pepper minutes or more.
Deep heavy pot with Use a pot that is not too big around so the sauce won't all boil
cover away. Chill the pork fat (scraps from pork chops, pork roast,
3 tbsp. pork fat (on etc.) and slice in thin small pieces. Saute fat in deep pot on
2 tbsp. cooking oil) medium high heat until the grease comes out.
Add the shrimp to the oil in the pot and saute on medium heat
about 5 minutes, stirring often.
½ cup tomato sauce Mix tomato sauce, water, and fish sauce together and add to
(Spanish style) the shrimp in the deep pot. Bring to a boil on medium high
½ cup water heat, cover and reduce heat to very low. Cook about 10 min-
1 tbsp.fishsauce utes. Remove from heat and serve soon.
TO SERVE Serve hot, with rice and salad. The sauce is good, too. Can be
reheated.

SHRIMP AND GREEN BEAN SAUTE Four servings

This is a simple and quick dish which may be used as the main dish for a simple
meal, or as one of several dishes for a large dinner.
1 lb. fresh green beans Wash the beans, then slice each bean in half lengthwise. Cut
the beans into 3- or 4-inch lengths. If soft-cooked beans are
preferred, frozen French cut beans may be used, slightly
thawed. The crispness and sweetness of the fresh beans,
however, makes this an entirely different dish.
4-qt. pot Bring water to a boil, then immerse the beans in the water in a
2 qts. water long-handled strainer if you have one. Bring to the boil again,
and cook about 1 minute, or until the beans change color,
becoming greener. Remove from the boiling water at once and
drain thoroughly. Set aside. Omit this step if using frozen
beans.
½ lb. fresh (frozen) Shell the shrimp and rub the salt in thoroughly. This helps
white shrimp clean the shrimp. Slice each shrimp almost in half, cutting
1 tsp. salt through the back. Rinse well, until clean, under cool running
water.
½ tsp. salt Mix the salt and pepper with the shrimp.
¼ tsp. black pepper
1 small onion Slice the onion very thin. Heat the cooking oil on high heat,
1 tbsp. cooking oil then put in the onion. Saute a few seconds, stirring, until the
Heavy skillet onion smell begins to come out.
Put in the shrimp, reduce the heat to medium, and saute about
2 minutes, stirring often.
70
 Add the sliced green beans and continue to saute on medium
heat about 5 minutes more.
2 tbsp. water Mix in the water and fish sauce, cook one more minute and
2 tsp.fishsauce remove from heat. If you prefer softer beans, instead of crisp
ones, add 1/3 cuP water and continue to cook on low heat
another 3 minutes.
TO SERVE Serve hot, with rice. Can be reheated, but is much better if
eaten as soon as it is cooked.

SHRIMP FRIED RICE Four servings

Here is another variation of the ever-popular fried rice, which is such a favorite
way in the orient for using leftover rice. This may be made with all new ingredi-
ents, or combined with leftovers.
12 medium-sized fresh Hull the shrimp, then slice each one in two or three slices
(frozen) white shrimp lengthwise, cleaning out the black vein along the back at the
same time.
1 medium onion Cut the onion in half, then in thin slices. Smash the garlic.
2 cloves garlic
Heavy skillet Preheat the oil on high heat. Drop in the garlic and saute for a
3 tbsp. cooking oil few seconds, until the characteristic odor rises. Then add the
shrimp slices and onion slices. Saute, stirring constantly, on
high heat about 2 minutes.
2 cups cooked rice Since almost every Vietnamese household has leftover rice, this
is a simple ingredient. You may have to cook the rice fresh, but
it is better cold when used in this recipe. Reduce the heat to
medium, put in the rice, and stir well, lifting from the bottom
with a spatula. Cook about 3 minutes.
2 large fresh tomatoes Cut the tomatoes in eighths and add to the mixture in the
skillet. Stir gently, lifting from the bottom. Cook about 2
minutes more.
1 tbsp. fish sauce Add the fish sauce, salt and pepper, sprinkling lightly over the
Dash of black pepper top of the mixture in the skillet. Stir well. Turn off the heat.
¼tsp. salt
TO SERVE Serve hot, with leaf lettuce, fresh mint and Chinese parsley and
a side dish of Nuoc MAM SAUCE (page 23).

QUICK STEAMED CRAB LOAF Four servings

A new variety of meat loaf that is quick, easy, and makes a real company dish. This
is called "quick" because the recipes for shrimp loaf and fish loaf involve more time
for getting the fish or shrimp into paste form. This makes a good main dish, and is
good for a dinner party because everything except the steaming can be done well
in advance. The steaming may be done during the half hour before dinner; or it
may be finished before the guests arrive and kept warm over hot water.
71
2 tbsp. dried tree Soak the tree fungus and the bean thread separately about 10
fungus (optional, minutes in warm water to cover. Cut off the hard or speckled
page 20.) portion of the tree fungus where it was attached to the tree.
4-oz. pkg. bean thread Drain both bean thread and tree fungus well, and chop
Warm water to cover coarsely with knife or shears.
2 shallots (or white Slice the shallots in thin rounds. Mix with the pork. Add the
part of green onions) chopped tree fungus and bean thread, and mix together well.
½ lb.lean ground pork
3 or 4 oz. canned or Flake the crab meat and add to the pork mixture, kneading
fresh crab meat with the hands to mix well.
3 eggs Mix 2 eggs and an additional egg white slightly with a fork, and
add to the pork mixture. Reserve 1 egg yolk for the final step.
¼ tsp- black pepper Add the salt, pepper and fish sauce to the pork and crab
¼ tsp. salt mixture and mix well. The mixture should be loose and almost
2 tbsp.fishsauce fluffy.
Steamer Place the crab and pork mixture in a heat resistant dish, pat out
Flat 10-inch heat- flat, and put into the top of the steamer. For instructions on the
resistant dish (be use of the steamer see page 10. Bring water to a boil in the
sure it fits steamer) bottom section of the steamer. Put the top section of the
steamer, with the dish of crab mixture inside, in place over the
boiling water, cover, and steam on high heat until the loaf is
firm (25 to 30 minutes). Uncover the steamer, turn off the heat
and blot the excess moisture from the top of the loaf with a
paper towel. Be careful not to get a steam burn.
Mix the egg yolk (reserved earlier) slightly with a fork, and
brush all of it onto the top of the cake. Let it sit, uncovered, in
the steamer for a minute or so until the yolk begins to get firm.
Do not cover the steamer again, or the yolk will get too hard and
will take on an "eggy" taste.
TO SERVE Serve hot with rice, green salad, and a soup. Serve a side dish
Nuoc Mam Sauce of Nuoc MAM SAUCE (page 23) to dip the loaf into, bite by bite.
This is good served with leaf lettuce and fresh mint leaves. Take
a bite-size portion of the crab loaf, wrap it in a lettuce leaf with
a mint leaf, dip into the Nuoc Mam Sauce, and eat with a bite
of rice.

GREEN BEAN, CRAB AND MUSHROOM SAUTE Four servings

This makes a good accompaniment for a hearty dinner, but it is also good as a
light summer meal or a luncheon dish.
1 lb. fresh or frozen Slice green beans in half lengthwise then cut in 2- or 3-inch
green beans (substi- lengths. Or use canned or frozen French-cut green beans—the
tute: 1 can green Vietnamese cut them the same way. Bring water to boil, put in
beans) beans and boil about one minute, then drain. If canned or
4 cups water frozen beans are used, do not cook, just drain. Cut the shallots
Medium skillet in thin rounds. Preheat cooking oil in skillet and saute shallots
3 tbsp. cooking oil on medium heat a few seconds, stirring. Add crab meat and
2 shallots (or white saute, stirring, for 2 minutes. Canned crab meat may be
part of green onions) substituted, but be sure to rinse it in running cold water, in a
72
3 oz. fresh or frozen colander, before cooking.
crab
10 button mushrooms Cut the mushrooms in half. Add mushrooms and green beans
¼ tsp. salt to the crab mixture in the skillet and saute for 5 minutes on
Dash of pepper medium low heat, stirring occasionally. Sprinkle salt and
pepper over the top and stir well.
1 tbsp. fish sauce Mix fish sauce and cold water together, and pour over the
2 tbsp. cold water mixture in the skillet. Stir well.
1 clove of garlic Crush the garlic, make a hole in the middle of the mixture in the
skillet and add the garlic. Let it cook a few seconds until the
odor rises, then stir into the mixture. Continue to cook on
medium low heat for 2 minutes.
TO SERVE Serve hot or cold, as a main dish, or as a salad with a larger
dinner.

CRAB OMELET Four servings

¼ lb. fresh (frozen) Clean crab meat and flake it. Slice the shallot in thin rounds and
crab meat and add to the crab meat.
1 shallot (or white part
of a green onion)
Heavy skillet Heat oil in skillet. Add the crab meat and shallot, and saute
1 tbsp. cooking oil over high heat about 1 minute or slightly less, stirring con-
stantly but gently. Turn off heat and let the mixture cool in the
skillet while beating the eggs (next step).
4 to 6 eggs The number of eggs depends on the appetites, the size of the
eggs, and the number of other dishes being served, if any. Beat
the eggs with a fork until well mixed, but with the white still
ropy.
¼ tsp. salt Pour crab mixture into eggs, add salt, fish sauce, and black
1 tsp. fish sauce pepper and stir well.
Dash of black pepper
1 tsp. cooking oil Heat the oil in the same heavy skillet, over medium heat. Pour
in the egg and crab mixture and stir gently with a metal spatula
for about 1 minute. To stir, push the end of the spatula through
the egg mixture to the bottom of the pan, then push away from
you and lift slightly at the same time. This pushes the cooked
mixture off the bottom of the pan and allows the liquid top
portion to run down onto the bottom to be cooked.
Reduce the heat to low and let the omelet sit in the skillet about
5 minutes. It should be firm, slightly brown on the bottom, but
still very soft and partially liquid on top. Fold in half, using the
spatula, and remove gently to a warm plate.
TO SERVE Serve with rice, a salad, and a soup. A side dish of Nuoc MAM
Nuoc Mam Sauce SAUCE (page 23) should be served as an accompaniment to be
used to individual taste. Leaf lettuce and mint leaves are
especially good with this: wrap a bite of the omelet in a lettuce
leaf with a sprig of mint, dip one end lightly into the Nuoc
Mam Sauce, and eat with the fingers.
73
FRIED PORK A N D CRAB ROLLS (CHA GIO) Six servings (52-56 rolls)
This is a good dish for cocktails as hors-d'oeuvres, or for a meal in itself. It is a
delicious dish and one of the best-remembered dishes of Vietnam. The rice paper
(banh trang) used to wrap these rolls can be bought only in Vietnam (or maybe in
France) and there is no substitute for it.

THE STUFFING Soak the bean thread about 10 minutes in water to cover.
1 4-oz. pkg. bean Drain bean thread and chop coarsely with knife or shears.
thread
1 medium-size Slice the Chinese yam paper-thin with vegetable peeler, roughly
Chinese yam (about gather the slices and cut into fine threads.
1lb.)
5 green onions Chop fine both types of onion. Add the onion, the chopped
1 onion bean thread, the chopped yam, the flaked crab meat, and pep-
½ lb. ground pork per to the ground pork, and mix well after each addition. Use
1 can crab meat your hands so that the ingredients are thoroughly mixed. Sub-
(drained and flaked) stitute : You can substitute 1 cup of shelled and deveined fresh
Pepper to taste (frozen) white shrimp for the crab. Chop the shrimp well before
mixing with the other ingredients.

THE ROLLING Cut each sheet of rice paper in half. Trim rough edges off rice
Rice papers paper with scissors so that rough parts will not poke through
the paper when rolling the mixture.
1 cup water Mix water and sugar syrup (or brown sugar). The purpose of
1 tsp. caramelized the sugar in the water is to make the paper turn golden brown
sugar (page 27) or when fried. Put half circle of rice paper on flat surface, dip your
1 tsp. dark brown fingers in the sugared water then rub the moisture over the rice
sugar paper gently. Do not make the rice paper too wet. Let the
dampened paper sit while 3 or 4 more pieces are dampened.
Then begin the filling.
Fold the half-circle in half to reinforce it. Put about a tea-
spoonful of filling near the rounded edge in an oblong shape.
Fold the sides over the filling and then roll up, gently but
firmly. Put the roll aside, lying on the exposed edge of the
paper. If the edge is still hard, this will soften it. See diagram
on next page.

THE COOKING Pour enough cooking oil into a heavy skillet or pot to make the
Heavy skillet or pot oil about 1½ inches deep. Heat the oil on medium high heat.
Cooking oil Slip the roll into the hot oil, the raw edge side first so that the
hot oil will seal it onto the roll, then fry until golden brown.
Remove to a wire cake cooler or similar rack to drain off the
excess oil.

TO SERVE Serve hot, with leaf lettuce, fresh mint leaves, Chinese parsley,
Nuoc Mam Sauce thin sliced cucumbers, and individual small bowls of Nuoc
Leaf lettuce MAM SAUCE (page 23). To eat, wrap the roll in a lettuce leaf,
Mint leaves with mint, Chinese parsley and cucumber, and dip in the sauce.
Chinese parsley
Cucumber
74
1 2

3 4

5 6

75
TENDER MEAT-STUFFED SQUID Four servings
Don't just assume you wouldn't like this one. Confirmed squid-haters have taken
fourths and fifths on this dish! (They often didn't know what they were eating!)
The taste of squid is not there, and the rubbery consistency is gone. In fact, the
squid is turned into nothing more than a handy envelope for a very tasty meat
stuffing.
1 lb. fresh (frozen) Clean the squid, pulling out the head with its tentacles and the
squid insides. Reserve the tentacles. Also pull out the hard, clear
bone-like spine that extends the length of the body, inside.
Wash the inside thoroughly under cold running water. Chop
the tentacles fine, and set aside.
½ lb. ground pork Put the ground pork in a bowl, and add the chopped squid
tentacles.
6 small (4 large) dried Soak the mushrooms and lily flowers in warm water to cover
mushrooms for about 15 or 20 minutes. Discard the mushroom stems, and
15 dried lily flowers the hard stem-end of the lilyflowers.Drain well, then chop fine
(optional) and add to the pork.
Water to cover
¼ cup bean thread Soak the bean thread about 10 or 15 minutes in warm water to
Water to cover cover. Measure about ¼ cup of it after it is soaked, and drain
well. Chop fine, and add to the pork.
1 clove garlic Crush the garlic and chop very fine; add to the pork. Slice the
2 shallots (or white shallots in thin rounds and add to the pork, with the salt, fish
part of green onion) sauce, and black pepper. Mix together well, kneading with
¼ tsp. salt hands.
1 tbsp. fish sauce
¼ tsp. black pepper
Coarse needle Stuff the pork mixture into the squid, packing each squid firmly
Heavy thread full. Sew the opening shut with a coarse needle and heavy
thread.
Heavy skillet Heat the cooking oil in the skillet on medium heat, then add the
3 tbsp. cooking oil stuffed squid. Saute about 5 minutes on medium heat, turning
occasionally.
Poke a fork into each squid so all the water can come out. Con-
tinue to cook, turning occasionally, another 7 minutes on
medium heat.
TO SERVE Remove the thread and slice each squid in 14-inch rounds.
Lettuce Keep each sliced squid together, in squid shape, if desired.
Nuoc Mam Sauce Serve hot on a bed of lettuce, with lettuce peeping up between
each squid. Accompany with rice, a side dish of Nuoc MAM
SAUCE (page 23), and soup if desired.

76
 CHICKEN & DUCK
CHICKEN IS ANOTHER VIETNAMESE MEAT FAVORITE. Chickens are small and thus can
be raised in a small area. They also produce eggs, and make themselves doubly
useful. Most of these recipes call for frying chicken, rather than for baking or stew-
ing chicken, even when the chicken is to be boiled and the meat removed from the
bones. Stewing chicken often gets dried out before it is tender.
Duck, like chicken, is a universal favorite in Vietnam as well as in China. Some
of the recipes included here might well be used with wild ducks brought home by a
hunter. There are also some recipes for soups on pages 37, 38, and 84.

BAKED CHICKEN Four Servings

This is excellent for a quick and simple dinner. Fast, but tasty enough to put before
the most demanding guest. And very good for the calorie counter, too. Try taking
it on a picnic. Just be sure to take plenty.
3-lb. frying chicken Cut the chicken into serving pieces. Crush the garlic, and mix
½ cup soy sauce with remaining ingredients to make a marinade. Pour over the
1 tbsp.fishsauce chicken and let it stand at least 3 hours, or overnight, in the
1 tsp. sugar refrigerator.
2 tbsp. cooking oil
¼ tsp. salt
2 garlic cloves
Medium roasting pan Line the roasting pan with aluminum foil. Place the chicken
Aluminum foil pieces in the pan, and pour the marinade sauce over. Bake,
covered with aluminum foil, in 350 F oven for about 30 minutes.
Remove the foil from the top and turn the chicken. Bake an-
other 10 minutes, uncovered. The chicken should be a golden
brown.
TO SERVE Serve with a side dish of the marinade sauce from the roasting
pan. A green salad, Nuoc MAM SAUCE (page 23), and rice make
perfect accompaniments.

STUFFED CORNISH HEN Six servings

This is true gourmet food, but won't be wasted on ordinary people.
6 Cornish hens Clean the chickens thoroughly, wash inside and out, and dry
with paper toweling. Reserve the giblets for use in the stuffing.
77
3 shallots (or white Crush the garlic and shallots together.
part of green onions)
4 cloves garlic
1 cup soy sauce Mix soy sauce, sugar, pepper, oil and fish sauce in a large bowl,
1 tbsp. sugar then mix in the crushed garlic and shallots. Dip each chicken
¼ tsp. pepper into the mixture, coating each thoroughly, then put all the
3 tbsp. cooking oil chickens in the bowl and let them soak for about 3 hours or
1 tbsp.fishsauce longer. If the weather is hot, put them in the refrigerator.
Bowl large enough to
hold all the chickens
2 cups rice Cook POT ROASTED RICE (page 22).
2 tbsp. butter
1¾ cups water
1 8-oz. can straw mush- Chop the green onions and mushrooms coarsely. Slice the
rooms giblets very thin. If straw mushrooms are not available, fresh
2 green onions button mushrooms may be substituted. Do not substitute
Giblets from 6 Cornish canned button mushrooms.
hens
2 tbsp. cooking oil Preheat the cooking oil in a medium-size skillet on medium
¼ tsp. salt heat. Put in the chopped green onions and mushrooms and the
Dash of black pepper sliced giblets and saute on medium heat, stirring, about 1
Medium-size skillet minute. Cover the skillet and simmer for 8 minutes. Remove
with cover from heat.
Mix the Pot-Roasted Rice and the sauteed giblet mixture to-
gether, and stuff it into the marinated Cornish hens. Note:
Stuff the hens tightly, but don't handle them too much because
the skin is not very sturdy. Do not try to lace or pin the opening
shut—just leave it open, and if some of the stuffing falls out
don't worry about it.
Large baking pan Place the stuffed Cornish hens in the baking pan and pour the
Aluminum foil to cover remaining marinade sauce over them. Cover the pan with foil.
Preheat oven to 375 F. Put in the pan of Cornish hens and
bake for 40 minutes.
3 tbsp. butter Remove the foil cover and baste the hens with butter. Continue
baking, uncovered, at 375 F until golden brown (about 15
minutes more).
TO SERVE Serve on a platter, on a bed of lettuce leaves for looks. One hen
is served to each individual, along with plenty of paper napkins
and encouragement to use the fingers. When serving from
platter to plate, try to keep the hen in the same position as it
was baked in, so the stuffing won't fall out. A vegetable salad
makes the perfect accompaniment.

STEAMED GINGER CHICKEN Four servings

If fresh ginger root is not available, use reconstituted whole dry ginger. However,
it is worth taking some extra bother to try to find fresh ginger.
78
2 dried mushrooms (or Soak the dried mushrooms in warm water to cover about 15
several canned straw minutes. Drain, remove the tough stem, and slice in very thin
mushrooms) strips. If straw mushrooms are used, slice thin.
"Large" meat from Remove the "large" meat and skin from the bones of half a fry-
half a frying chicken ing chicken. Reserve the bones, with the "small" meat and the
giblets for soup. Cut the "large" meat into thumb-size or
smaller pieces.
1 shallot (or white part Slice the shallot into thin rounds. Cut the thin slices of ginger
of green onion) root into very fine strips. Slice the tomato (including skin) into
3 thin slices fresh small finger-size sections. Combine all these ingredients, and
ginger root the mushrooms, with the chicken.
1 small tomato
Small deep heat-proof Place the chicken mixture in the heat-proof bowl. Add the re-
bowl (cereal-bowl maining seasonings and oil and mix thoroughly with the hands
size) or with a spoon.
½ tsp. sugar
1¼ tsp. fish sauce
Dash of black pepper
1/8 tsp. salt
1 tsp. cooking oil
Large heavy skillet, Pour about 1 inch of water into the skillet. Place the bowl of
with cover chicken mixture in the center and put the cover on the skillet.
Water The cover should be vented, or tilted, so some of the steam can
escape. Bring to a boil over medium high heat and steam until
well done (about 30 minutes). Check occasionally, and if the
water gets low in the skillet, add more hot water. If you have a
steamer it may be used, but this is faster and easier.
TO SERVE Serve with rice, soup, and salad.

CHICKEN AND BEAN THREAD Four servings

A quick meal, simple and tasty.
2 2-oz. pkgs. bean Soak the bean thread in warm water to cover for at least 10
thread minutes. Drain and chop into medium lengths (6 to 10 inches
Warm water to cover long).
Half a frying chicken Cut the "large" meat from the bones of half a chicken, and cut
1 shallot (or white into thumb-size or smaller pieces. Careful of your thumbs!
part of green onion) Reserve the bony sections with "small" meat and the giblets for
soup. Slice the shallot into thin rounds and add to the chicken
meat.
Large heavy skillet Heat the cooking oil in skillet, and saute the chicken about 3
2 tbsp. cooking oil minutes on medium heat, stirring occasionally.
1 tbsp. fish sauce Add the seasonings and water to the chicken, stir well and turn
1/8 tsp. salt the heat to high. Bring to a boil and cook for 2 minutes. Reduce
Dash of black pepper the heat to medium low and cook 1 more minute. Add the bean
½ cup water thread, stir well to mix and cook about 1 minute. Remove from
heat.
TO SERVE Serve warm, with rice and a salad. Can be reheated, or frozen
for use later.
79
CURRIED CHICKEN Four servings
CURRY SEASON- The plain curry powder only gives the nice smell and part of the
ING nice color—the other seasonings add the special flavor. This
1 heaping tbsp. curry has a much richer color and flavor than is usually seen outside
powder the Far East's traditional curry-eating countries. The paprika
1 tsp. salt and saffron powder add a richness of color that is missing in
1 tsp. red paprika commercial curry powder. Unfortunately even commercial
Dash of allspice saffron powder is usually so old as to have lost the strength of
% tsp. sugar its color. In Vietnam saffron root is ground fresh and it gives a
1/8 tsp. (scant) warm golden glow to the curry. Fresh citronella is another
cayenne, dash of thing that has no real substitute. It is available in some cosmo-
black pepper politan areas, and by all means try to find it; but if you can't,
1 tsp. saffron powder make the curry anyway.
¼ tsp. cinnamon (or 2-
inch piece of stick
cinnamon)
2 ½- to 3-lb. frying Cut chicken into serving pieces about 3- or 4-inch squares or
chicken rectangles; it doesn't matter.
2 fresh citronella roots Slice the citronella in thin rounds, then chop well. Mash garlic
(optional) cloves and chop fine. Add citronella, garlic and curry flavoring
2 garlic cloves powder to chicken and mix well. Let stand about 30 minutes.
Deep pot with lid Heat the oil on medium heat. Slice the shallots in thin rounds.
4 tbsp. cooking oil Saute the shallots for a few seconds then add the chicken mix-
3 shallots ture. Cook on medium heat, stirring, about 10 minutes.
2 cups cool water Rinse out the container in which you mixed the chicken and
2 tbsp. fish sauce seasonings and pour the rinse water into the pot with the
chicken mixture. Add the fish sauce and stir well. Increase the
heat to high, bring to boil, and let boil about 2 or 3 minutes.
Reduce the heat to medium.
1 tbsp. cornstarch Mix a little of the warm liquid with cornstarch and blend well.
Then add to the chicken mixture, stir well, and cook another 5
minutes.
½ cup coconut milk If coconut milk or frozen coconut milk is not available, make
some coconut milk using the recipe on page 26. Add to the
chicken mixture, stir well, and cook another 5 minutes. If the
sauce is not quite thick enough, add a little more cornstarch,
using the method described above. It should not be pasty, but
should be a little thicker than water.
TO SERVE Serve with rice, noodles, hot rolls, or French bread, and a green
salad if desired. For additional flavoring, have a small side dish
of lemon or lime juice mixed with salt. This mixture should be
spread lightly over your piece of chicken.

FRIED CHICKEN CITRONELLA Three or four servings

This is a uniquely southeast Asian dish, and if you can't find fresh citronella (or
powdered lemon grass) there is really no substitute.
80
½ frying chicken Cut the half-fryer in serving pieces. Slice the citronella and
(about 1 lb.) with green onions in thin rounds. Add to the chicken with the salt
giblets and pepper, mix to coat the chicken, and let stand about 20
3 small (2 large) citron- minutes or more.
ella roots (or 1 tbsp.
powdered lemon
grass)
2 green onions
1 tsp. salt
Dash of black pepper
Heavy large skillet Heat the cooking oil in the skillet on medium heat. Add the
2 tbsp. cooking oil seasoned chicken and saute, stirring occasionally, a minute or
1-inch piece chili so. Chop chili pepper fine and add, stirring well. Saute about
pepper 10 minutes on medium heat.
1 tsp. sugar Sprinkle the sugar and a little more black pepper over the
Dash of black pepper chicken and stir well.
2 tbsp. chopped roasted Be sure to chop the peanuts just before using, to bring out the
peanuts flavor. Also be sure to use the "dust" from the chopping, since
1 tbsp. fish sauce much of the good peanut flavor is in that. Add, with the fish
sauce, to the chicken. Stir well, scraping the bottom of the
skillet with a spatula if necessary. Don't let it burn. Continue
to cook about 1 more minute, then remove from heat.
TO SERVE Serve hot or warm, with rice or seasoned noodles. Can be used
as a main dish with a regular Western meal, and is good for
picnics if served still slightly warm.

TOMATO-FRIED CHICKEN Four medium servings

This quick and simple dish is very good for a buffet dinner, and is easy to multiply
—served with a green salad and with POT-ROASTED R I C E (page 22). This is a labor-
saving device for the cook and a sure way to please guests or family.
1½-lb. frying chicken Cut the frying chicken into serving pieces. At least 1½ hours
1 shallot before serving, slice the shallot in thin rounds and mix with the
¼ tsp. pepper salt and pepper. Add these to the chicken and mix thoroughly,
1 tsp. salt so each piece of chicken is seasoned. Let this mixture stand at
least an hour, so the seasoning can soak in. If the weather is
very hot, refrigerate while soaking, otherwise room tempera-
ture is fine.
3 tbsp. cooking oil Heat the cooking oil in a heavy skillet, on medium heat. Put
Heavy skillet with lid in the chicken, and fry on medium heat about 5 minutes, turn-
ing pieces of chicken once or twice. Cover and cook on medium
heat another 7 minutes. Turn pieces, cover again and cook an-
other two minutes.
2 small cloves garlic Crush the garlic cloves with the flat side of a heavy knife, or
press with a garlic press—just until the sides are broken com-
pletely. Add to the chicken, stir lightly, and allow to cook a few
seconds.
81
2 large tomatoes Chop the tomatoes coarsely. Slice the shallot in thin rounds.
1 shallot (or white part Add tomato and shallot, with tomato sauce, to the chicken.
of a green onion) Stir gently, and turn the chicken pieces once. Cover, continue
1 tbsp. tomato sauce to cook on medium heat another 5 minutes. Uncover and turn
chicken.
1 tbsp. fish sauce Dribble the fish sauce over the chicken, stir gently, turn heat to
low, and cook another minute or two. Keep warm until ready
to serve.
TO SERVE Serve hot with rice and salad—especially good with POT-
ROASTED RICE (page 22). This can be cooked in advance and
reheated to serve. It may be frozen, if prepared in large quan-
tities, and it makes leftovers that taste like a banquet.

CHICKEN AND MANY VEGETABLES About 8 servings

Be sure to get everything chopped and sliced before starting to cook. Though this
may look complicated, it is actually easy to do. The recipe may be reduced in size,
if desired, but leftovers are easy to freeze for use later.
8 dried mushrooms Soak mushrooms about 15 minutes, or until tender. Remove
Water to cover and discard stems. Cut each mushroom into 3 or 4 pieces.
15-oz. can bamboo Discard the liquid in the can. Slice the bamboo into thin (1/8
shoots inch) pieces about 1 inch wide and 2 or 3 inches long. Irregular
pieces are customary, instead of squared ones.
1 Chinese yam (sub- Peel and slice the Chinese yam (or kohlrabi) in very thin rounds.
stitute: kohlrabi)
(omit if not available)
1 small onion Chop coarsely.
1 medium carrot Scrape and cut into approximately 2-inch lengths. Then slice
each piece into 5 or 6 thin lengthwise slices.
½ medium frying Wash the half chicken and cut into small serving pieces. Use
chicken the giblets, too, if you like them.
1 cup cauliflower You can use either fresh or frozen vegetables. Cut the cauli-
½ cup Chinese peas flower flowerets into double thumb-size pieces.
(substitute: French-
cut green beans)
Large skillet with cover Place water in skillet, turn heat on high. Add the cauliflower
2 cups water and peas. When the water boils, remove from heat and drain
the vegetables in a colander or strainer. Discard the water.
3 tbsp. cooking oil Using the same skillet, heat the cooking oil on high heat. Put in
the chicken and onion and saute, stirring, on high heat about 1
minute.
Add the chopped mushrooms, and stir well. Reduce heat to
medium and continue to saute, stirring, about 2 minutes.
1 tsp. salt Add the salt, stir, and cover. Cook on medium heat about 3
minutes.
Add the sliced bamboo shoots and Chinese yam, stir, and
cover. Cook on medium heat another 3 minutes or so.
82
 Add the carrot, stir, and cover. Cook on medium heat another
5 minutes.
Add the blanched cauliflower and peas. Stir.
¼ cup water Mix the water, fish sauce, and monosodium glutamate (or dried
2 tbsp. fish sauce shrimp, if you prefer). Pour into the skillet and stir well. Cook,
Dash monosodium uncovered, another 5 minutes on medium heat.
glutamate (a substi-
tute for 1 tbsp.
soaked dried shrimp)
TO SERVE Serve hot with rice. Can be frozen, or refrigerated, and re-
heated.

GIBLETS AND VEGETABLES Four servings

1¼ lb. cauliflower Cut the cauliflower flowerets in half. Try to maintain about the
Deep pot same size pieces. Bring the water and salt to a boil in the deep
1 qt. water pot. Put in the cauliflower and bring to a boil again. Boil for 3
¼ tsp. salt minutes, remove from the heat and drain well. The cauliflower
should be almost dry when used in the recipe.
½ lb. chicken hearts Cut the hearts in half, lengthwise. Score the gizzards lengthwise,
and gizzards making 4 or 5 cuts, then slice them crosswise into 1/8-inch
2 shallots (or white pieces. This helps them to cook faster and soak up more juice,
part of green onions) and it makes the pieces look more appealing. Slice the shallots
in thin rounds and add to the giblets.
10 dried mushrooms Soak the dried mushrooms in warm water to cover about 10
minutes. Drain well. Cut off and discard the stems, and slice
each of the mushrooms into four strips.
10 medium large fresh Slice each of the fresh mushrooms into four strips, stems and
mushrooms all.
2 tbsp. cooking oil Heat the cooking oil in the skillet, on medium heat. Put in the
Large heavy skillet in the giblets and shallots, the fresh mushrooms and the dried
with lid mushrooms. Stir well. Saute about 1 minute on medium heat.
Dash of pepper Add the pepper, salt, and fish sauce to the giblet mixture and
½ tsp. salt stir well to mix. Cover lightly, letting some air get into the pan,
1 tbsp. fish sauce and continue to cook on medium high heat until done, about
another 5 minutes. Stir occasionally.
Add the cauliflower to giblets and mix well. Cover and continue
to cook on medium high heat another 2 minutes.
1 heaping tsp. Mix the cornstarch in the water so it won't get lumpy. Add to
cornstarch the mixture in the skillet and stir continuously, cooking another
2/3 cup water half a minute or so on medium high heat. The gravy will begin
to thicken and get translucent. Remove from heat, and keep
warm until served.
NOTE: The cauliflower will still be chewy and slightly crisp. If
it is cooked too long it will get tenderer, but will begin to give
off that unpleasant "cabbagey" smell.
TO SERVE Serve with rice and salad, as a main dish or one of two main
dishes. Should be served warm. It can be reheated, and it can be
frozen for future use.
83
CHICKEN SOUP-SALAD (PHO GA) About ten servings
This is another version of the famous combination soup and salad that is such a
favorite in Vietnam. You should plan to serve this when there is a large group, be-
cause you need to make such a large quantity of soup. Of course, the soup may be
refrigerated, but it really is a good excuse for a party. It is fun to let everyone get
into the act, too, if it is possible to set the soup pot simmering in a place that is con-
venient to the table. Variations using pork or beef are described on pages 52 and
62.
THE CHICKEN Cut the chicken in half and put into a big pot with the water. If
SOUP desired, add beef and/or pork soup bones for flavor. Crush the
4-lb. stewing chicken half stick of cinnamon and drop it in the pot. Chop the ginger
10 cups water root fine and add. Cut the green onion in 3-inch lengths and
Beef and/or pork bones put in the pot. Bring to a boil on high heat, then reduce the
(optional) heat to medium or medium low, just enough to keep the pot
½ stick cinnamon gently simmering. Cook about 5 hours, uncovered, adding
10 thin slices fresh water as necessary to keep the level the same. If you don't add
ginger root (op- more water it will gradually boil away and you won't have any
tional) soup.
2 green onions
Extra large soup pot
1 frying chicken Cut the frying chicken in half and drop into the soup pot. Cut
1 small onion the onion in sixths and drop in. Continue to simmer, un-
covered, until the frying chicken is tender (about 30 minutes).
Test the two frying chicken halves by poking with a chopstick
(or a fork, remembering that a fork is much sharper). When
tender, dip out of the soup, cool, and remove the meat from
the bones. Leave all the other ingredients in the soup pot. They
may be eaten later, as leftovers. Set the chicken meat aside. The
soup is now ready for eating at any time.
1 tbsp. salt Add salt and monosodium glutamate before serving.
Dash of monosodium
glutamate
1 pkg. Chinese noodles If fresh noodles are available, slice in Vrinch wide strips. If
(look fun: page 17) dried noodles are used, soak the dry noodles for 2 hours in
warm water to cover. Then boil about 5 minutes, or until ten-
der. Be sure the noodles are cooked before beginning to serve—
just heat them up a little at serving time.
SERVING INSTRUC- Be sure all the slicing and preparation is done in advance, then
TIONS ask people to come and be served before starting to do the
Deep soup bowls following cooking. Many people like to prepare their own, once
Chopsticks they have learned the procedure.
Soup spoons
1 lb. fresh bean sprouts Mix the bean sprouts with the already-cooked noodles. Bring
3 qts. water water to boil in the deep pot, then put about a cupful of the
Deep pot noodle and bean sprout mixture in a long-handled strainer and
Long-handled strainer dip into the boiling water for about a minute — just long
enough to blanch the bean sprouts and warm the noodles.
Drain a bit over the pot, then put in the bottom of an individual
soup bowl.
3 large onions Cut the tomatoes in half, from the stem end down, then slice
3 large tomatoes across in very thin slices. Slice the onions the same way.
84
Deep ladle Put a couple of slices of tomato and some onion in the deep
ladle. Immerse the ladle into the gently boiling soup for ½ to
1 minute only, then pour into the individual bowl. Put in
plenty of soup.
Meat from the boiled Put plenty of chicken meat on top of the soup-salad, and garn-
chicken prepared ish with Chinese parsley. Serve with large slices of lime or
earlier lemon, and small slices of fresh chili pepper according to indi-
Chinese parsley vidual taste. Also serve with a small side dish of fish sauce to be
Lime or lemon slices used to taste if the soup is not salty enough.
Fresh chili pepper
Fish sauce

MANY-COLORED CHICKEN FRIED RICE Six servings

This colorful dish may be cooked as indicated in this recipe, or with individual
variations as a leftover to clear out the refrigerator. Each family usually has a spe-
cial favorite group of things to be used with fried rice.
1 medium frying Cut the frying chicken into large pieces, for easy frying.
chicken
3 shallots Chop the shallots very fine. Mix with the salt and pepper, and
1 tsp. salt coat the chicken pieces thoroughly with the mixture. Let the
1 tsp. pepper chicken stand about 30 minutes to season.
Large skillet with cover Preheat the cooking oil on high heat. Add the seasoned
3 tbsp. cooking oil chicken, reduce the heat to medium and cover. Cook about 10
minutes, remove cover and turn chicken. Cover and continue
cooking on medium heat another 15 minutes, or until tender
and slightly browned. Remove chicken from skillet, leaving
whatever oil there is in the skillet.
½ lb. boiled pork Slice BOILED PORK (page 23) or boiled ham into pieces about 2
or ham inches long, ¼ inch thick, and ½ inch wide. If canned pressed
ham is used, after slicing it put it in a colander and place it
under hot running water for a couple of minutes. It will have a
firmer texture, the slightly slick, canned feel will be gone, and
it will be pinker.
J cup frozen mixed Drop the mixed vegetables into boiling water and cook about 5
vegetables minutes. Drain well. Or substitute a cup of any leftover
3 cups boiling water vegetable or combination of vegetables, if you prefer.
3 cups cooked rice See page 21 for cooking plain rice. Use cooked rice, either hot
or cold. Leftover rice is very good—in fact, cold rice is better
for this recipe. Put the cooked rice in the skillet in which the
chicken was fried, and saute on medium high heat about 5
minutes, stirring from the bottom with a spatula occasionally.
1 small onion Slice the onion, and chop coarsely. Make a space in the center
of the rice, drop in the onion and cook until it begins to get
limp (about 1 minute) before stirring into the rice.
Stir in the mixed vegetables and ham and cook one more
minute.
85
2 fresh tomatoes Chop the tomatoes coarsely and stir into the mixture. Cook
another minute.
Remove fried chicken meat from the bone, and shred it
coarsely. Add to the mixture, and stir well. Cook another 2
minutes.
3 tbsp. water Mix the fish sauce with the water, sprinkle lightly over the top
1 tbsp.fishsauce of the rice and mix in well. Cook another 3 minutes.
2 tbsp. lard, butter, This step is optional. Many Vietnamese people like more fat in
or cooking oil their fried rice, and lard is usually the most available. Butter is
3 cloves garlic also well liked, but cooking oil is probably better for you. The
garlic is also optional. Make a hole in the center of the rice in
the pan. Put the fat (whichever kind you prefer) into the open
space. Crush the garlic cloves and put them into the fat. When
the garlic aroma begins to rise, stir into the fried rice mixture
and mix thoroughly. Cook another 3 or 4 minutes. Remove
from heat.
TO SERVE Serve hot, as a one-dish meal. May be accompanied with a
Nuoc Mam Sauce soup and/or salad. Serve with side dishes of Nuoc MAM SAUCE
(page 23) for individual use as wanted.

CHICKEN AND BAMBOO STEW Four servings

In Vietnam, fresh bamboo shoots are available during most of the year, and they
are often used in preparing this dish. Dried bamboo shoots are used during the
rainy season, but the dried bamboo is sun dried, for family use, and is not intended
for storage beyond the three months or so of need. Dried bamboo shoots available
in Chinese or other oriental stores in other parts of the world are usually machine-
dried, and need considerably more soaking and boiling.
3 to 4 oz. dried bamboo Soak the bamboo shoots overnight. Next day, drain and rinse
shoots (substitute: well.
15-oz. can of canned
bamboo shoots)
3 qts. water
Soup pot Put the soaked bamboo shoots in a soup pot with water to
Water cover and add the baking soda, which helps to make the shoots
1 tsp. baking soda tenderer. Bring to a boil, and cook uncovered over medium
heat about 1 hour. Drain, and rinse under running cool water,
rubbing the shoots between the hands to clean thoroughly.
Drain well. Cut each strip in half across, then cut each half into
about 3 lengthwise strips.
2 lbs. chicken backs Return the bamboo shoots to the soup pot. Put in the bony
and wings chicken pieces. Of course a whole chicken, cut up, or any other
1 tsp. salt combination of chicken parts may be used as desired. Cut
2 tbsp.fishsauce onions into 2-inch lengths. Add with the salt, fish sauce, and
2 green onions water. Cook until everything is tender (1 or 2 hours). The
Water to cover bamboo shoots, when cooked, will have a slightly firm and
86
 chewy texture, similar to that of fresh green onions. The flavor,
however, is not at all like green onions.
TO SERVE Remove the chicken bones, and serve hot withriceand a salad.
This can be stored in the refrigerator several days and reheated.
Also can be frozen for longer storage.
VARIATIONS If time is pressing, the bamboo may be soaked for only three
hours before the cooking process is begun. However, after
soaking, draining and washing under running cool water, the
bamboo shoots should be brought to a boil in water to cover.
As soon as the water boils, drain the bamboo. Repeat 4 or 5
times. Then boil for 1 hour before adding the chicken.
For a different (and good) taste, use a 15-ounce can of bamboo
shoots, which need only be washed, sliced, and put in the soup
pot with the bony chicken pieces and seasoning with no pre-
soaking.

SHREDDED CHICKEN RICE Four servings

This is a very good one-dish meal, with the rice cooked in the soup that was used
to boil the chicken—an interesting technique.
2½-lb. frying chicken Wash the chicken and cut in half.
Deep bowl Crush and chop the shallots and garlic very fine. Put in a deep
3 shallots bowl, with the fish sauce, pepper and salt, and mix well. Then
2 cloves garlic put the chicken halves in and coat them well. Let the chicken
2 tbsp.fishsauce marinate in this sauce about 30 minutes or longer.
¼ tsp. pepper
¼ tsp. salt
Heavy deep pot Preheat the cooking oil, then fry the soaked chicken halves on
4 tbsp. cooking oil medium heat about 5 minutes on each side.
1 tsp. saffron powder Use fresh saffron powder if available. Add and stir well.
(or turmeric) Continue to fry for another minute.
4½cupswater Add the water, increase the heat to high and bring to a boil.
After the water begins to boil, lower the heat to medium high
and let the chicken cook for 15 minutes.
Take the chicken pieces out of the soup and let them cool.
Remove the meat from the bones and shred.
3 cups rice Wash the rice and drain it. Put it into the pot with the chicken
soup, and increase the heat to high. Cook, uncovered, until the
water is all absorbed.
Add the shredded chicken and stir well. Reduce the heat to low,
cover, and continue to cook for 20 or 30 minutes, or until the
rice is tender.
TO SERVE Serve with leaf lettuce, Chinese parsley, fresh mint, cucumber
slices, and a side dish of Nuoc MAM SAUCE (page 23). Can be
reheated in a steamer.
87
DUCK AND BAMBOO STEW Four servings
This is still another variation of the CHICKEN AND BAMBOO STEW, recipe on page 86.
Substitute either the bony pieces of duck, or a whole, cut-up duck. This is a good
way to use tough, wild duck.

STEAMED DUCK Six servings

This is considered VIP food in Vietnam. It is full of a number of delicious things,
and has a flavor quite different from that of the traditional Western roast duck.
When the hunter brings home a nice duck, try this for a change. You may end up
buying duck to keep up with the demand! The fat and juice runs out of the duck in
the steam, and the fat just seems to disappear from the meat.
20 dried lily flowers Soak the lily flowers, mushrooms, and tree fungus in warm
(optional) water to cover about 20 minutes. Remove and discard the hard
10 dried mushrooms stem end of the lilyflowersand tie each one in a knot to make
2 tbsp. dried tree it slightly more crunchy. Remove and discard the mushroom
fungus (optional) stems and slice each mushroom into 3 or 4 pieces or more, if
large. Remove the black specks from the tree fungus, where it
grew onto the tree. Drain well.
1½ lb. duck (part of a Cut the duck meat from the bones, leaving on most of the fat.
duck) Slice the giblets in thin pieces. Put the duck and giblets into the
Heat-proof bowl bowl and add the mushrooms, tree fungus, and lily flowers.

4 or 5 thin slices of Chop the ginger fine. Slice the shallots in thin rounds. Add
fresh ginger root both to the duck.
4 shallots (substitute:
2 whole green
onions)
1 tbsp. rice wine Chinese rice wine may be used or a white wine such as sauterne,
but do not use Japanese sake because it is not strong enough.
One tsp. of good brandy, or very good rum, may be substi-
tuted. Add to the duck.
3 tbsp.fishsauce Add the fish sauce, almonds and salt. Mix everything together
30 whole blanched well, using the hands if necessary to get the duck well coated
almonds with all the seasonings.
¼ tsp. salt
Steamer (page 10) Place the bowl in the top part of the steamer, with cold water in
the bottom section. Cover. Bring to a boil and steam on high or
medium high heat for 30 minutes. As a substitute for the
steamer, use a large skillet or pan, a small rack of any sort that
will keep the bowl off the bottom, and a top that will cover
tightly.
TO SERVE Serve hot, with rice, soup, and salad. This is real gourmet fare,
and should have the place of honor in any meal. Can be
reheated in the steamer. Can be frozen, but should be defrosted
before reheating in the steamer.
88
BARBECUED SAFFRON DUCK 4 small servings
The leaves used to wrap the pieces of duck are an important part of this recipe—they
tend to keep the fat from the duck out of the fire, and when fat does drip into the
fire, making it flare up, the leaves protect the duck from burning. The leaves get
pretty seared, but the duck huddles inside cooking in a wonderful way. Lemon
leaves are by far the best, because they give some of their lemon flavor to the bar-
becue. But any thick, non-poisonous leaf will do the trick. Just be positive it is not
poisonous, and that when burned it will not give off an unpleasant taste. Any citrus
fruit leaf, guava leaf, banana leaf—in fact, any leaf of a tree with edible fruit will be
good. In Vietnam, the lemon tree thorn is used as a toothpick to hold the leaf in
place, having the added advantage of being green and less flammable than a tooth-
pick. See the end of the recipe for instructions for barbecuing without any leaves
at all. If wild duck is used, and the duck seems to be tough, just slice it in very fine,
thin strips.
1½ lb. duck (part of a Remove the meat from the bones, using a sharp knife or
duck) cleaver. Include some of the fat, but use predominantly lean
meat for this dish. Cut into medium small, thumb-sized pieces.
Save the bones, bony pieces, and rest of the fat for soup;
recipes on pages 29-39.
2 green onions Chop the onions, fresh ginger root, and garlic veryfine.Add to
3 slices fresh ginger the duck, in a bowl. Citronella or lemon grass may be sub-
root stituted for ginger, if you have it. Add all the seasonings to the
2 cloves garlic duck, and mix together well with the hands. Let it stand and
1 tsp. saffron marinate 20 minutes or more. If the weather is too hot, store in
Dash of black pepper the refrigerator.
1 tbsp. soy sauce
1 tbsp.fishsauce
1 tsp. sugar
1 tbsp. cooking oil
Large lemon leaves Wrap each piece with a lemon leaf or if very thin strips of duck
are used, bunch several together. Fold the tip of the leaf over
the meat, then the stem end, leaving the sides open. If the leaf
won't stay folded, break the central stem by folding firmly.
Keep together with a toothpick or other less flammable pick.
Try the Vietnamese method of using lemon thorns, if you have
the time to cut them off the tree.
Folding sandwich grill Place the wrapped duck in a folding wire sandwich or hotdog
or other barbecue cooker, and place over hot coals. Barbecue, turning occa-
equipment sionally, until done (about 15 minutes). When the fat drips out,
Barbecue grill the fire will flame up, but the leaves will protect the duck.
TO SERVE Serve hot, with rice. Each person unwraps his own duck and
puts it on top of his rice. Put a plate or bowl in the center of the
table for the leaves—don't keep track of individual appetites!

VARIATION If non-poisonous leaves are not available, or the group is too

hungry to wait until a test is made, regular long skewers may be
used. Put the pieces of duck, folded, packed close together
on the skewer. Broil over low coals, turning frequently. Watch
carefully, and if thefireflamesup from dripping fat, or for any
other reason, don't let the duck burn.
89
TURNIP-PATCH DUCK Four servings
This dish rather effectively disguises the strong flavor of turnips and the strong
flavor of duck, making a pleasant surprise for the duck-hunter or the housewife
with leftover duck.
1 lb. of duck (part of a Cut the duck meat off the bones and slice thinly, including
duck) some fat with the lean. Use the giblets, if you have them, sliced
thin. The pieces of duck should be about ¼ inchthickor less,
and 1 inch wide and perhaps 2 inches long: irregular pieces are
to be expected.
Large skillet with cover Heat the cooking oil in the skillet on high heat, and then saute
2 tbsp. cooking oil the duck, stirring constantly, for about 3 minutes. Remove
from skillet and set aside.
2 medium-size turnips Pare the turnips and cut off root and stem ends. Cut into large
(about 1 to 1¼b.) finger-size chunks, about 2 or 3 inches long.
Using the same skillet as for the duck, heat the oil on high heat
2 tbsp. cooking oil and saute the turnips, stirring frequently, about 5 minutes.
Crush the garlic, chop fine, and add to the turnip. Stir well.
1 clove garlic After a few seconds, when the garlic begins to make its presence
known, put in the sauteed duck. Stir well.
1 tbsp. fish sauce Add the fish sauce, salt and water and stir well. Bring to a boil
1 tsp. salt on high heat, cover, and reduce the heat to medium low.
1 cup water Simmer about 1 hour, or until duck and turnips are tender.
TO SERVE Serve hot, with rice, soup, and salad. Garnish with Chinese
parsley, if available.

BARBECUED WHOLE DUCK Four servings

This duck has a wonderful flavor, and is one of the simplest of meals to prepare.
It needs one hour marinating and two hours cooking time, but need not be watched,
except for the last 30 minutes. This is ideal for the outdoor rotisserie, because it
needs the charcoal flavor. The lime or lemon leaves and citronella leaves give it a
special flavor, too; but the substitution of celery tops and parsley will not make it
taste bad! It will have a different flavor, but an excellent one.
4-lb. duck (wild tender If the duck is frozen, thaw it before beginning anything. Wash
one, or Long Island) thoroughly inside and out, and pat dry. Remove the giblets, and
reserve for another recipe or for soup.
2 tbsp. cinnamon Mix the cinnamon, salt, sugar, and pepper, and divide into
2 tbsp. salt three equal parts. Use one-third of the seasoning to rub the
1 tbsp. sugar inside of the bird thoroughly, massaging it in well, and use the
¼ tsp. black pepper second third to rub into the bird's skin. Let the bird soak up the
seasoning for an hour or so. The remaining third is used later.
Charcoal brazier Start a charcoal fire, and let the coals get fairly hot.
Electric rotisserie
90
Lime or lemon leaves Stuff the duck loosely with the leaves. Don't chop them up—use
Citronella leaves whole leaves. Sew or skewer the bird tightly closed. Put it on
(substitute: celery the rotisserie skewer and place over coals. Start the rotisserie
tops and parsley) going, and broil over medium hot charcoal 1½ hours.
¼ cup water Add water to the remaining third of the seasoning mix. Baste
Basting brush the duck with this sauce about every 5 minutes, cooking for
another 30 minutes.
Remove the rotisserie skewer with the duck, and let it cool
enough to be handled. Open up the duck, remove and discard
leaves. Chop the duck into small bite-size pieces with a cleaver
or carve it into large serving-size pieces, if desired.
TO SERVE Serve with soup, salad, and rice as a main dish. If the fat and
skin is not popular, save it and make duck and bamboo stew, or
saute it.

91
 SALADS
FRESH LEAF LETTUCE, fresh mint leaves, Chinese parsley, and fresh chives make an
excellent accompaniment for any Vietnamese meal. Note, too, the several recipes
for SOUP-SALADS on pages 52, 62, and 84.

PICKLED BEAN SPROUTS Four servings

This is very good for lunch on a hot day. Serve with cold BOILED PORK (page 23),
Nuoc MAM SAUCE (page 23), and rice; or with PORK STEW (page 40).
1 lb. fresh bean sprouts Wash the bean sprouts and drain thoroughly. Canned bean
/ medium carrot sprouts won't do. Shred the carrot. Add to bean sprouts, in
1 green onion large bowl. Cut the green onion, including the top, into 2-inch
1 bamboo shoot lengths. Then slice into lengthwise strips. Slice the bamboo
(canned) shoot very thin, about 1/16 inch, then cut into small strips. Be
sure to use a Chinese bamboo shoot. If desired, a small can of
presliced bamboo shoot can be substituted, but it should be
well drained and rinsed with cold water.
1 tbsp. rock salt Regular salt may be used. Mix all ingredients together, includ-
Water ing the salt, and pour in water to cover. Let the mixture stand at
room temperature at least three hours, but preferably all day.
This will keep about two days in the refrigerator.

PICKLED BEAN SPROUTS WITH BOILED PORK Four servings

Medium pot with cover Pork may be lean or fat, depending on personal preference.
1 lb. pork leg or belly Since the pickled bean sprouts are slightly sour, some people
Cold water to cover like more fat in the pork. Place the pork in the pot, and pour in
cold water to cover. Bring to a boil, then lower heat and cover
the pot. Let the meat simmer until done (about 20 minutes).
To test, push the end of a chopstick into the meat. If it goes in
easily, the meat is done. Remember, a fork is much sharper
than a chopstick, so a fork-test for doneness is quite different.
Do not overcook the meat; it should be well done but firm.
92
 If you discover it is still too pink or tough inside when you
begin to slice it, just put it back in the pot and boil some more.
Remove the pork to a plate or platter and let cool to room
temperature. When thoroughly cool, cut across the grain into
thin (1/16-inch) slices. Then cut the slices into pieces about two
inches square.
TO SERVE Drain the pickled bean sprouts (page 92) and pile in the center
1 lb. pickled bean of a large plate or medium-size platter. Arrange the cold sliced
sprouts pork artistically around the edges so that it will be easy to
serve.
Nuoc Mam Sauce Place Nuoc Mam Sauce (page 23) in small bowl with serving
spoon. A gravy bowl and gravy ladle works very well for this.
Place hot rice in another bowl with serving spoon or wooden
paddle.
EATING INSTRUC- Serve rice in individual rice bowls, and a spoonful of Nuoc
TIONS Mam Sauce in individual sauce dishes. Each person takes a
Individual place set- chopstickful of pickled bean sprouts and places it on top of his
ting: rice. Then he takes one piece of cold sliced pork, dips it into the
1 tiny sauce dish sauce, places it on top of the pickled bean sprouts, and eats
1 rice bowl with rice.
Chopsticks

CUCUMBER SALAD
Though this is called cucumber salad, there are many other goodies in it as well. It
is delicious as a one-dish meal on a hot day, or may be served as a salad with
dinner. Good for picnics, a dieter's delight, the complete all-purpose food.
2 large cucumbers Slice the cucumbers paper thin (use the wide slicing section on
1 tsp. salt your grater, if it has one; or use a vegetable parer). Soak the
Water to cover thin slices in salted water to cover about 30 minutes or more.
Drain through a piece of nylon net and twist to squeeze water
out thoroughly.
½ lb. boiled shrimp Cool the shrimp thoroughly. Slice in halves or thirds length-
(page 24) wise.
½ lb. boiled pork Slice pork in thin (¼-inch) pieces, about finger-size or slightly
(page 23) smaller. Cool thoroughly.
1 or 2 tbsp. Nuoc Mam Mix cucumber, shrimp and pork together. Add less than 1
Sauce (page 23) tablespoon Nuoc Mam Sauce and taste—every taste is dif-
ferent. Add more, as you like.
3 or 4 tbsp. sesame Roast the sesame seed slightly in a small covered pan on top of
seed the stove, shaking to keep from burning. Then crush slightly
to bring out the flavor. Add to the salad just before serving and
mix in well.
About 20 mint leaves Chop the mint leaves coarsely and add to the salad.
TO SERVE Serve in small bowls, as a main dish for luncheon or other
light meal; or as salad with a dinner.
93
GREEN VEGETABLE SALAD
Any green vegetable, in season, may be served alone or in combination with others.
Serve with a side dish of Nuoc MAM SAUCE (page 23) for seasoning. Especially
good with most Vietnamese dishes is a combination of leaf lettuce, chives, Chinese
parsley, fresh mint, and cucumber. Cabbage leaves are also good. Let personal pref-
erence be your guide.

GREEN PAPAYA SALAD Four servings

This is included for the benefit of those lucky people who are able to get green
papaya. A variation using turnips (also delicious) is included for the others.
2 cups (packed) (The number of papayas used will vary, depending on the size.)
green papaya Use papayas that are still very hard and bright green. Peel the
papayas, and shred in long slender shreds on a grater. Use just
the green meat—stop when the seeds in the center appear. Put
into a serving bowl or platter.
½ lb. boiled fresh pork Slice the boiled fresh pork in thin(1/8inch) slices, about ½ inch
(page 23) wide and 1 inch long. If the shrimp are small, slice in half
1/3 lb. boiled shrimp lengthwise. If large, slice in thirds lengthwise. Put pork and
(page 24) shrimp on top of the papaya, arranged nicely.
3 tbsp. fresh mint Chop the mint leaves coarsely and sprinkle over the salad.
leaves Pour over 2 or 3 tablespoons of the Nuoc MAM SAUCE (page
Nuoc Mam Sauce 23), to taste. When ready to serve, mix together.
TO SERVE Serve as a light luncheon, with tea and perhaps soup, or serve
as a salad accompaniment to a large dinner.

TURNIP SALAD Four servings

This is a variation of the green papaya salad, but is delicious in its own right. Be
sure to use young and crisp white turnips.
2 cups (packed) The number of turnips used will vary, depending on the size.
shredded white Wash the turnips thoroughly, then scrape off the skin. Shred,
turnips on a grater, in long thin shreds. Put into a serving bowl or on a
platter.
½ lb. boiled pork Cut the BOILED FRESH PORK, preferably fresh ham, (page 23)
1/3 lb. boiled shrimp in thin(1/8-inch)slices about ½ inch wide and 1 inch long. If the
(page 24) shrimp are small, slice in half lengthwise. If they are large
(don't use the extremely large ones), slice in thirds lengthwise.
Put the pork and shrimp on top of the shredded turnip,
arranged nicely.
3 tbsp. fresh mint Chop the mint leaves coarsely and sprinkle over the top of the
leaves salad. Pour over 2 or 3 tablespoons of Nuoc MAM SAUCE
Nuoc Mam Sauce (page 23), to taste. When ready to serve, mix together.
TO SERVE Serve as a light luncheon, with tea and perhaps soup; or serve
as a salad accompaniment to a large dinner.
94
CHICKEN SURPRISE SALAD
This chicken salad is certain to surprise—and to please. It is very good for picnics,
for light summer meals, for a salad accompaniment to a soup or stew, and is a
dieter's delight.
½ boiled frying Chill the BOILED CHICKEN (page 24) and shred it. Shred the
chicken cabbage or slice very fine with a sharp knife. Mix the chicken
1 small head cabbage and cabbage together lightly.
About 20 fresh mint Chop the mint leaves and the Chinese parsley coarsely. Mix
leaves lightly with the chicken and cabbage.
3 or 4 stems Chinese
parsley (optional)
Nuoc Mam Sauce to Add Nuoc MAM SAUCE (page 23) to taste—start with about a
taste tablespoonful.
TO SERVE Serve alone with tea, or with rice, or as a salad accompaniment
to a main dish or a stew. It should be cool, but not necessarily
chilled.

PORK RIND SALAD Four servings

An inexpensive, and diet-conscious, salad that is quick and easy to make and is
very tasty. The butcher will probably be happy to give you some pork skin to try
this with.
1 cup pork rind Boil pork rind in water to cover about 20 minutes. Rinse in
(fresh pork skin) cold water to cool and drain well. Remove excess fat from the
Water to cover skin, and slice into thin slivers about the same size as bean
sprouts.
1 lb. fresh bean sprouts Wash and clean bean sprouts, then soak about 5 minutes in hot
Hot water to cover water to cover. Drain well.
2 star fruit (star apple Peel star fruit, and slice into thin slivers, same size as bean
or carambole) sprouts and pork rind. Drain well. If star fruit is not available,
SUBSTITUTE: cucumber soaked in lime-flavored water may be substituted.
1 small cucumber Peel the cucumber and slice into thin slivers the same size as the
1 tbsp. lime juice bean sprouts. Then soak the slivers in the lime juice and water
Water to cover to cover for about 10 minutes and drain well. This gives the
slightly acid flavor characteristic of star fruit.
¼ cup mint leaves Chop mint and Chinese parsley leaves coarsely. Reserve.
¼ cup Chinese parsley
(if available)
2 tbsp. sesame seeds Roast the sesame seeds and crush slightly in a mortar. Reserve.
2 tbsp. Nuoc Mam Combine the pork rind, bean sprouts, star fruit (or cucumber),
Sauce (or to taste) mint, and Chinese parsley. Toss with Nuoc MAM SAUCE (page
23) until well mixed. Keep cool until served.
TO SERVE Toss salad with crushed sesame seed just before serving. If the
seeds get soggy, the nice smell and good flavor are dissipated.
Serve as a light salad meal, or as a salad course for a larger
meal.
95
SALAD "SANDWICH" Four servings
This particular item of Vietnamese food is one of the most versatile. It is very good
served as hors d'oeuvres, in a small bite-size bundle. It makes wonderful picnic
fare, with each person making his own "sandwiches." And it also is good for a
complete meal, especially served with soup. Since all the ingredients are served
cold, it may be prepared well in advance of serving time.
½ lb. udon noodles Bring the water to a boil and put in the noodles. Boil about 5
2 qts. water minutes, then drain and rinse under cool running water. (The
noodles will be sticky, and will have to be pulled apart in
lumpy bunches when served.) Put on a bed of lettuce leaves to
serve.
1½ lbs. boiled shrimp Cook shrimp and pork according to Basic Recipes. It takes
(page 24) about 30 minutes for the pork, only 3 or 4 minutes for the
1 lb. boiled pork shrimp. Slice the shrimp in 2 or 3 lengthwise pieces, depending
(page 23) on how large the shrimp are. Slice the pork in small pieces,
about ¼ inch thick and 2 inches square, or smaller. Arrange
the sliced pork around the edges of a serving plate or platter,
with the sliced shrimp in the middle.
4 lb. leaf lettuce Wash and drain all the vegetables. Serve on a large platter or
Chinese parsley bowl, each in a separate pile; or on individual plates or bowls.
Chives
Fresh mint leaves
Be sure to have enough Nuoc LEO SAUCE (page 23) so that each
Nuoc Leo Sauce person can have about half a cupful of it, in individual bowls.
Each individual can make his own "sandwich" by taking a leaf
TO SERVE of lettuce and putting on a little of each of the ingredients
shown above except the sauce, wrapping the lettuce leaf more
or less firmly around them, and dipping up some Nuoc Leo
Sauce with one end of the bundle. If it falls apart into the sauce,
just fish it out with your chopsticks or a fork.
HORS D'OEUVRE Cut the tops from a bunch of green onions. Wilt the onion tops
Green onion tops quickly by dipping into boiling water just enough to make them
Boiling water limp. If the tops are fairly wide, cut them in half lengthwise
before wilting them.
Make small "sandwiches" by spreading a small amount of the
noodles on a lettuce leaf, then putting in a small amount of
each of the other ingredients. Fold over each end of the lettuce
leaf, then roll up firmly (but be gentle so the leaf won't dis-
integrate). Tie each bundle with a wilted green onion top.
Serve with Nuoc Leo Sauce.

96
 DESSERTS
VIETNAMESE SWEETS ARE QUITE DIFFERENT from those outside the orient. Sweets are
served with tea whenever a guest comes to visit, but are not necessarily considered
a part of a meal. Fresh fruit, in season, is a basic part of Vietnamese eating. And
there are many fresh fruits, some of which, unfortunately, are not available outside
the tropics.

PRINCESS CAKE Twelve servings (or six ?)

This recipe was reconstructed from a childhood memory of a cake baked by my
mother. It had been long forgotten, but suddenly one day came to mind and
through a few experiments the Princess Cake of my childhood has come to be
written in English. These actually are either very small cakes or very large cookies.
There is nothing really like them except that small cupcakes or petit fours resemble
them in size. The completed cake looks like a small crown, with the inside layer
peeking through the outside portion. The inside is much like shortbread; the out-
side is more like a crisp, rather hard cookie. The outside dough may be left plain,
or may be colored any color desired.
INSIDE DOUGH Sift the flour. Melt the shortening (the Vietnamese use lard;
1 cup flour unsalted butter may be substituted). Mix shortening and flour
8 tbsp. vegetable short- together thoroughly, until crumbly, before adding sugar, in
ening order to kept this dough crumbly.
½ cup sugar Knead the sugar and banana extract into the mixture, mixing
2 or 3 drops of banana until it will barely hold together. If it won't hold together, add
extract a little more shortening.
Divide the dough into 12 equal portions, and roll each portion
between the hands into a smooth ball.
OUTSIDE DOUGH Sift the flour. Mix in the sugar. Melt the shortening, and mix
1 cup flour into the flour and sugar. In this case the sugar is mixed with
½ cup sugar theflourto make this doughfirmerthan the inner dough, above.
3 tbsp. shortening
I tsp. banana extract Mix the banana extract and the food coloring with the water,
½ tsp. green (or then add gradually to the flour mixture, kneading with hands
other) food color and folding until thoroughly mixed. Roll between the hands
4 tbsp. water to make a rope about a foot long, then fold the rope and roll
again. Repeat this several times.
91
 Divide the outside dough into 12 equal portions and roll each
portion into a smooth ball. Then pat out between the hands,
shaping with the fingers, to make a circle large enough to envel-
op a ball of the inside dough. Wrap each ball of "inside dough"
in a circle of "outside dough," pulling the edges together and
patting smoothly so that it becomes a smooth, colored ball.
2 sheets of paper Typing paper, or other similar paper, should be used. Do not
Cookie sheet use waxed paper. (Cakes of this sort are traditionally cooked
and served on white paper.) Cut the paper into 3-inch squares,
and place a ball of dough in the center of each square, placing
about 2 inches apart on a cookie sheet.
With a sharp knife, make a cut across the top of each ball, cut-
ting about ¼ of the way through the ball. Then make two cuts,
much shallower, on each side of the deep cut. The top of the
ball should look as if it is marked in six pie-wedge pieces. If the
cuts are too deep the cakes will fall apart while cooking; if too
shallow, the "crown" won't open up enough. If the shallower
cuts are made across the first deep cut, the shape will be dis-
torted.
1 tbsp. sesame seed Sprinkle sesame seeds over the top of each cake.
Preheat oven to 350 F. Bake cakes about 25 minutes. The tops
will gradually spread open, and the tips will be slightly brown.
TO SERVE Serve warm or when cooled, like cookies. Very good with tea.

COCONUT AND SESAME FILLING

This wonderful dessert filling is a favorite in the orient, and among the fortunate
people outside the orient that have had an opportunity to taste it. It is not difficult
to make, and will generously repay all effort. Use in the next two recipes.
3 tbsp. sesame seed Toast the sesame seed in a heavy skillet on top of the stove,
Heavy skillet with shaking and stirring often to keep from burning. Use medium
cover heat. It will take 3 to 5 minutes, depending on various factors.
Remove from skillet to stop roasting. The seeds have a much
nicer flavor when toasted—in fact, they are almost flavorless
unless they are toasted.
1 fresh coconut Remove the meat from a fresh coconut. See page 14 for easy
(substitute: 1½ cups instructions. Grate it coarsely and toast in the same heavy
sweetened bakers skillet, stirring constantly, on medium heat, about 1 minute.
coconut)
1 cup sugar Add sugar and water and continue to stir on medium heat
1 tbsp. water about 3 minutes. Note: If sweetened baking coconut is used,
reduce the sugar to ½ cup.
Add the sesame seeds and continue to stir over medium heat
another 2 minutes. The sugar will melt, coating the coconut and
sesame seeds.
98
 Remove from skillet to a bowl, and use as directed in recipes
on pages 99-100—or find your own uses for it. Refrigerate, if
it is not all used immediately. This will keep in the refrigerator
a month or so, or it can be frozen.

SOFT CAKE WITH COCONUT-SESAME FLAVORING

This Vietnamese cake has many versions. It is very soft, almost like dough, but
very tender. Easy to eat, with a gentle flavor, it is an ideal end for a heavy dinner.
It is also good served in the afternoon with tea.
1½ cups glutinous rice Mix the rice flour and water or milk together thoroughly with
powder or flour a spoon. If you use a stainless steel bowl, the dough won't
1½ cups water (or stick to the sides so much. This will make a sticky dough.
milk, if desired)
Teacloth or other Dampen the cloth, place the lump of dough in the center and
close-woven cloth wrap well. The shape doesn't matter at this stage.
Steamer (see page 10) Put hot water in the bottom section of the steamer. Place the
wrapped dough in the top section, put the top section in place
and cover. Steam over high heat 30 minutes. Be sure not to run
out of water in the bottom of the steamer. Remove the dough
from the top of the steamer (be careful not to get a steam burn),
unwrap it, using tongs or gloves if necessary. Put the steamed
dough back into the stainless steel bowl.
1 cup sugar Put the water and sugar in the deep pot and stir well. Bring to
½ cup water a boil, on high heat, and boil about 2 or 3 minutes or until it
Deep pot makes a light sugar syrup.
½ cup candied fruit Break the candied fruit into small pieces, about thumbnail size
(preferably squash, or smaller. Stir into the sugar syrup.
page 103)
Pour the sugar syrup and the fruit into the bowl with the dough,
adding gradually and stirring into the dough.
¼ cup coconut- Stir in the COCONUT-SESAME FILLING (page 98). The dough will
sesame seed filling be quite sticky.
10-inch cake pan Sprinkle the potato flour generously over the bottom of the
About ¼ cup potato cake pan. Put the cake mixture into the pan, and begin to pat
flour it out flat. Sprinkle more potato flour over the top of the cake
and continue to pat gently and rub the flour into the surface of
the cake. It should finally be smooth on top and fill the cake
pan.
Let the cake cool well. When it is cold, cut into squares,
fingers, or whatever shape your whim dictates. It will still be
somewhat sticky and dough-like in texture but very tender.
Potato flour Sprinkle potato flour generously in another pan. Roll the cut
pieces in potato flour, coating well so the cake will not be
sticky to handle. The potato flour is easy to digest raw, unlike
other flours, and will not get sticky.
TO SERVE Serve cold, with tea.
99
FRIED SWEET BALLS
THE DOUGH Mix water and sugar, bring to a boil, stirring only until sugar
¾ cup water is dissolved. Remove from heat and let cool.
¼ cup sugar
10 oz. (1½ cups) Mix the sugar syrup with the flour, stir and mix well. It will be
glutinous rice flour about the consistency of pie dough.
STUFFING Put a small amount of cooking oil on the palms of the hands,
Cooking oil and take out a piece of the dough large enough to form a ball
Coconut-Sesame Filling about 1 inch in diameter. Roll the dough between the hands
until a ball is formed. Then flatten it carefully with the fingers
and palms, making a circle about 3 inches across. Put a tea-
spoonful of COCONUT-SEASAME FILLING (page 98) in the center,
and fold the edges up, pinching together closely. Carefully roll
between the palms again, making afilledball. Be sure to get all
the openings closed—otherwise the ball might explode when
it is fried. Thin places in the dough may also cause small ex-
plosions. Stand back when frying!
Deep fat (3 inches) Drop the balls into hot deep fat about 3 at a time and fry until
golden brown. Drain on paper towels.
If too many balls are fried at the same time, they will stick to
each other. If too much sugar is used in the dough, it will burn
easily. If the balls are put in when the fat is not hot enough,
they will stick to the bottom of the pan.
TO SERVE Like doughnuts, these are best served hot. Warn people not to
burn tongues on the hot filling! But, also like doughnuts, they
are tasty'when they are cold.

BANANA CAKE
2 lb. bananas Peel bananas and smash them with flat side of heavy knife.
(very ripe) Put into mixing bowl.
½ cup heavy cream Add cream, milk, flour, sugar, and salt to bananas and mix
1 cup milk thoroughly. If available, substitute one cup coconut milk for
1 cupflour(sifted) the heavy cream and milk. Coconut milk gives a better texture
½ cup sugar and flavor, and more moisture than regular cows' milk. (See
Pinch of salt pages 15 and 26, "coconut milk.")
9-inch cake pan Oil the cake pan, then put in flour. Shake flour around to coat
Cooking oil sides and bottom of pan, then pour out excess flour. Pour
1 tbsp. flour banana mixture into pan, and bake at 350 F until golden brown
on top (about 1 hour).
TO SERVE May be served hot or cold; good with tea.

FANCY BANANA CAKE WITH CASHEWS Two one-layer cakes

This soft cake is considered a real luxury item by foreigners, but in Vietnam, where
bananas and coconuts are plentiful, it is not such an expensive dish.
100
3 eggs Break the eggs into mixer bowl and add the sugar. Set the
1 cup sugar mixer on low speed and blend the sugar and eggs thoroughly.
Then turn the speed to medium setting for about 2 minutes or
until the mixture is a pale yellow and getsfluffy.Do not use a
high speed on the mixer, since the slow beating gives the same
effect as beating by hand—getting lots of air in and making
things stay tender.
¾ cup whipping cream This is a substitute for fresh coconut milk. Pour the cream into
the mixing bowl with the eggs and sugar and continue to beat
for a few seconds, just enough to mix thoroughly. If you beat
too long you will have butter.
1½ cups flour Sift the flour after it is measured. Dump all the flour into the
mixing bowl with the egg and sugar and cream mixture and
stir with a wooden spoon just until mixed (about half a minute.)
4 lbs. very ripe bananas Peel the bananas, and smash each one with the flat side of a
heavy knife or cleaver. Just give one good smash to each
banana, don't mash them up into a gooey mess. Add to the
batter without stirring.
¾ cup chopped Chop the cashew nuts coarsely. Add to the batter.
cashew nuts
1 cup shredded fresh If fresh coconut is not available, packaged sweetened coconut
coconut may be substituted. The cake will be sweeter, but it will be good.
Add the coconut to the batter. Stir just until everything is well
mixed together.
2 8-inch cake pans Grease the cake pans thoroughly, with oleomargarine or
Oleomargarine or but- butter. Sift in someflourand shake the pan around so that sides
ter and bottom are well coated. Pour out the excess flour.
Flour
Preheat the oven to 350 F.
Pour the batter into the cake pans and bake on center rack
about 55 minutes or one hour. The top should be golden brown.
TO SERVE Slice and serve warm or cold. Theflavorand texture is different,
but it is very good both ways. This is not a light,fluffycake; it
is a very tender, solid pudding-like cake.

ALMOND COOKIES
This oriental favorite is not exclusively Vietnamese—its origin was probably
China and it is best known in the Western world as a dessert served in Chinese
restaurants. It is really quite simple to prepare and can be relatively inexpensive.
Be sure to hide the cookie jar!
1 cup blanched almondsChop the nuts veryfinein a nut chopper. Sift the flour with the
(substitute: cashews) soda, sugar, and salt and add the nuts. Mix together thoroughly.
2 cups sifted flour
1 scant cup sugar (or
less)
1 tsp. baking soda
1 tsp. salt (omit if
salted nuts are used)
101
1 cup Crisco (or other Mix in the shortening a small amount at a time, rubbing be-
vegetable shorting) tween the hands. The dough will finally begin to stick together.
(for a real treat, Shape the dough in any way you wish. Traditional shapes are
substitute the juice flat, round cookies—anywhere from 1 to 4 inches across; or
squeezed from fresh small balls that will flatten out slightly when cooked. If coconut
grated coconut) milk is used, the cookies will be more the texture of oatmeal
cookies.
Whole almonds (with Place the cookies on a cookie sheet, about an inch apart, and
skin still on) gently press an almond into the center of each one. Bake in
(substitute: whole 350 F oven about 20 minutes. The almond cookies should not
cashews, if cashews be brown, but if cashews are substituted the cookies will be
are used in the basic slightly brown. Cool on wire rack. Store in airtight container.
recipe)
Cookie sheet

CARAMEL RICE PUDDING Six to eight servings

A quick and easy dessert that may be varied with seasonal fruits or served with
chilled canned fruit or fruit salad.
4 tbsp. sugar Put the sugar in the mold and put on high heat, for just a few
2-qt. mold seconds. Be sure mold will fit into the steamer used below.
1 tbsp. water Add 1 tbsp. or less of water—just enough to dampen the sugar.
Return to stove, on high heat, and cook until a spot of brown
shows somewhere. Then lift the mold off heat and quickly tilt
and turn in a circular motion. The brown will quickly spread
all over. Return to the heat occasionally, and continue to tilt
and turn until it is evenly dark caramel in color. It will be a
thin syrup. Cool, occasionally tilting and turning to coat the
bottom of the mold and the sides slightly.
½ cup glutinous rice Put the two kinds of rice and the water into the pot, over high
½ cup plain rice heat, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium low,
3 cups water cover, and cook until all the water is absorbed. Remove from
Heavy 3-qt. pot heat.
Large mixing bowl Pour the rice into a large mixing bowl, add the sugar and mix
6 heaping tbsp. sugar well.
2/3 cup milk Add the milk. Break the eggs into the mixture, and mix to-
3 eggs gether well with a spoon.
Steamer, or large Pour the pudding mixture into the caramel-coated mold.
skillet with cover Place in a steamer (see page 10), or use a large skillet with
Water cover. Place water in the skillet, about 1 ½ inches deep, put the
mold in the water, and cover.
Bring the steaming water to a boil on high heat and steam
until the pudding is firm (about 20 minutes).
TO SERVE Chill thoroughly. Loosen pudding from mold by shaking with
a quick, circular wrist motion. Place a shallow bowl over the
top of the mold and quickly turn upside down. Be sure to get
all the caramel out of the bottom of the mold. Pour chilled
canned fruit salad, fruit cocktail, or other in-season fruit over
the top.
102
CANDIED WINTER MELON
This delicacy can often be bought in oriental groceries, but can be made at home
fresh, too. Naturally, the type made at home is considered much prettier and better.
This is usually made at New Years time, when it is cool, because you need to keep
an eye on it while it cooks. It is often cooked in a large copper kettle, over a char-
coal fire. Many people consider this confection a real challenge, since winter melon
is one of the most tender of all vegetables, and to be able to cook it for a long
enough period to make it into a confection sounds impossible.

5-lb. winter melon Buy an older, tougher melon instead of a young tender one, if
possible. Peel the melon and remove the pithy inner section
with the seeds. Discard peel and pith. Cut the firm, white out-
side meat into strips at least l/2 inch thick, about 1 inch wide
and from 2 to 4 inches long. The strips will shrink during cook-
ing.
1 tbsp. slaked lime (If you prefer, just buy a gallon or so of lime water from your
(calcium hydroxide, druggist.) Put the powdered calcium hydroxide and the water
available from the in a large pot. Stir well to mix, then dump in the pieces of
druggist) melon. Let soak for one hour. This will give a slightly crunchy
12 cups water texture to the final product.
Large pot
Drain off the lime water and rinse the melon thoroughly under
cool running water.
2 tbsp. alum Pound the alum into afinepowder. Mix it with the water, mak-
12 cups water ing certain there is enough liquid to cover the winter melon
pieces. Put the melon in and let soak overnight. This soaking in
alum water makes the final product firm. Otherwise, the winter
melon would get mushy after cooking it more than 15 minutes.
Next day, drain the alum water from the melon pieces and,
without rinsing, cover with fresh water. Bring to a boil and cook
about 4 or 5 minutes on medium heat.
Drain the melon again, and this time rinse very very well under
cool running water. Drain and wash several times, to be sure
all the traces of alum water are removed. The alum also has a
tendency to make the confection turn yellow, if the heat gets a
little too high.
Electric skillet If an extra-large electric skillet is available, it may be possible
4 cups sugar to cook all the melon pieces at the same time. If not, divide in
half and cook two batches. (Or halve the recipe?) Mix the
sugar and the melon pieces together and put into the electric
skillet. Set the temperature at 250 F and cook about 20 minutes.
Turn the pieces and move them about frequently (gently,
gently) using chopsticks, tongs, or a spoon. Water will begin to
come out of the melon, lots of syrupy juice will form, and the
pieces will begin shrinking.
Increase the heat to 300 F and continue to cook about 10 min-
utes. This is when it is important to watch closely to keep the
confection from turning yellow. Turn each piece frequently to
allow proper drainage and equal contact with the heat for each
piece.
103
 Reduce the heat to 250 F once more and continue to cook, turn-
ing the pieces occasionally, until the juice has almost all been
absorbed. There should still be a covering of syrup over the
bottom of the pan.
Reduce the heat to 200 F and cook until all the juice is absorbed.
Don't rush it—the total cooking time will be 3 or 4 hours. If
you try to cook it too fast, the pieces will turn yellowish and
will not be nearly so pretty. The color should be almost clear,
and the pieces will be almost transparent.
TO SERVE Serve as a candy, or use in cake (see page 99).

FRESH ORANGE CONFECTION Four {or more) servings

This light and refreshing dessert is as lovely to look at as it is to eat.
4 navel oranges (large) Shave off a thin layer of the outer skin, leaving half or more of
the inner part of the skin intact. The orange should still have
an orange tint to it—don't peel away to the white pith inside.
Make six deep slits lengthwise in the skin of the orange, cutting
deep into the inside, starting about one inch from the stem end
and running to within about one inch of the navel end.
Large pot Put the oranges into the pot and cover with water. Bring to a
Water to cover boil and continue boiling on medium heat for 30 minutes. This
makes the pulp tender.
Drain the oranges, and submerge in cold water to cool off.
When cooled, poke with a sharp knife around through the side
slits to loosen the pith and pulp. Slowly and gently press the
top of each orange until the slits widen and the orange begins
to flatten. Gently, with thefingers,pull out the extra pulp and
pith that appears between the sides of each slit. Continue to
press until the oranges are only 1½to 2 inches high. The slits
will be fairly wide, and much of the pulp will be discarded.
Leave some of the pulp inside.
1 tsp. alum Place the oranges again in the saucepan, with water to cover.
Water to cover Mix in the alum, which will keep the orange rind firm so it will
not disintegrate during the following cooking. Bring to a boil
on high heat, then lower the heat to medium and boil for an-
other 30 minutes.
Drain off the hot alum water, and once more cool the oranges
in cold water. When cool, press firmly to drain, then let drain
in a colander or on a cake cooler grid for about 5 minutes.
2 cups sugar Put the oranges into the saucepan once more, pour the sugar
cup water over them, then pour the water over all. Bring to a boil quickly
on high heat, then reduce the heat to low. Let the oranges sim-
mer slowly until the syrup has almost completely disappeared.
Turn the oranges over occasionally, using great care not to
tear them.
TO SERVE Serve cool. May be sliced into small portions, or for those who
know about these oranges serve one for each individual. These
can be refrigerated for two or three months if kept in a tightly
sealed container. Can also be frozen.
104
 HORS D'OEUVRES
THESE RECIPES are not necessarily used as hors d'oeuvres in Vietnam, but have been
found to serve especially well in that guise among foreigners. All of these recipes
may also be served as one of several or even as the main course at a regular meal.

FRIED SHRIMP PATTIES

This is good as an hors-d'oeuvre, as a light luncheon with lettuce, or may be served
as the main dish with rice, soup, and salad.
1 clove garlic Mash and chop the garlic clove fine. Add it into the basic
Dash of pepper SHRIMP PASTE (page 25), then add pepper and continue to
1 lb. Shrimp Paste knead until thoroughly mixed in.
Deep-fat fryer or Form the Shrimp Paste into small patties about ½ inch thick,
heavy skillet 3 or 4 inches across, and drop into hot oil. Fry quickly on
1-inch cooking oil medium high heat until brown on both sides (about 2 or 3
minutes).
TO SERVE Serve piping hot with rice, Nuoc MAM SAUCE (page 23), leaf
lettuce, mint, and Chinese parsley, if served as a main dish.
Serve piping hot with a side dish of Nuoc Mam Sauce and a
platter of leaf lettuce and mint to wrap the patties, if served as
hors-d'oeuvres.

BARBECUED SHRIMP PATTIES

2 cloves garlic Mash and chop the garlic fine. Add garlic, fat or cooking oil,
2 tbsp. fat or cooking and pepper to the BASIC SHRIMP PASTE (page 25). Knead until
oil thoroughly mixed. Set aside.
¼ tsp. pepper
2 lbs. Shrimp Paste
Barbecue stove and Make fire.
rack
Charcoal
Shape the Shrimp Paste into small patties about ½ inch thick,
and 3 or 4 inches across. Place the shrimp patties on the rack
and put it over burning charcoal. Barbecue until brown on both
sides.
TO SERVE Serve hot. Wrap in lettuce leaves, including mint leaves, and
dip in a side dish of Nuoc MAM SAUCE (page 23).
105
STEAMED SHRIMP LOAF Four servings
This makes a very good hors d'oeuvre, served either hot or cold. It is also a good
main dish, served with rice and salad.
Steamer pan See page 10 for a description of the steamer and the general
2 fresh ti leaves or a procedure for its use. Wash the leaves, dry with a paper towel
fresh banana leaf or dish towel, and oil slightly. Place the leaves in the top section
(substitute: cloth) of the steamer pan as a lining over the holes in the bottom. A
Cooking oil piece of closely woven cloth such as a tea towel may be oiled
and used as a substitute, if the leaves are not available. Leaves
are used in Vietnam as the most practical thing. They are dis-
carded after use.
Shrimp Paste Pat out the SHRIMP PASTE (page 25) on the leaves in a flat
round cake about ½ inch thick. Add cold water to the bottom
section of the steamer, set the top in place with the shrimp cake
inside, and cover. After the water comes to a boil, begin timing.
Steam, on high heat, for about 7 or 8 minutes (just until firm).
There will probably be a small residue of liquid on top of the
loaf. Blot this up with a paper towel, being careful not to get a
steam burn on your hand or arm.
1 egg yolk Use the yolk of the egg left over when making the shrimp
paste. Beat yolk slightly and spread over the top of the hot
shrimp loaf with a pastry brush. Let stand, uncovered, in the
steamer until egg yolk is slightly firm. Do not cover. If it is
covered, the yolk gets too hard and the smell is "eggy."
TO SERVE Remove shrimp loaf to a plate and slice into squares. Serve hot
or cold, with Nuoc MAM SAUCE (page 23). If served as a main
dish, it should be accompanied by steamed rice, a salad, and a
soup.

SHRIMP ON TOAST
This is a delicious hors d'oeuvre or a luncheon eaten with lettuce, mint, Chinese
parsley, and sliced cucumbers.
1 lb. Shrimp Paste Add pepper to the SHRIMP PASTE (page 25) and mix well.
¼ tsp. pepper
Thin-sliced bread For this recipe two- or three-day-old bread is best. Cut the
bread into rounds or squares, of a size that can be easily
managed as an hors-d'oeuvre. Spread the Shrimp Paste on one
side of the bread, in whatever thickness you like.
Deep fat fryer or Heat oil and fry the Shrimp on Toast until brown. Fry the
heavy skillet shrimp-side down first, then the bread side.
2 inches of cooking
oil
TO SERVE Serve hot. Wrap Shrimp on Toast in lettuce with mint, Chinese
parsley, and a side dish of Nuoc MAM SAUCE (page 23) for
dipping.
106
STEAMED FISH LOAF
Begin with the basic recipe for FISH PASTE (page 25), and continue as below. This
is good as hors d'oeuvres, or may be used as a main dish for a light meal.
2 cloves garlic Chop and crush the garlic cloves. Add to the Fish Paste with
2 lb. Fish Paste the black pepper and continue to knead and squeeze until
Dash of black pepper mixed in thoroughly.
Steamer Line the steamer top with leaves or with a piece of closely-
Ti leaves, banana leaf, woven cloth which has been well saturated with cooking oil, so
or oiled cloth that the holes are covered. See page 10 for detailed instructions
on using a steamer. Pat the fish paste out into a flat, round cake
about 1 inch thick and place on top of the leaves. Place in the
steamer top, over boiling water in the steamer bottom, and
cover. Steam, over high heat, 6 to 8 minutes, just until firm.
The fish loaf will turn whiter. Turn off heat, and remove the
cover. Excess liquid will have collected on top of the fish loaf
and it should be carefully blotted off with a paper towel. Be
careful not to get a steam burn.
1 egg yolk Use the egg yolk left over when making the Fish Paste. Stir the
Pastry brush yolk just until mixed, and brush all of it onto the top of the fish
loaf. Let the loaf remain in the steamer, uncovered, just until
the yolk sets. Do not cover again, or the yolk will get too hard
and take on an unpleasant eggy taste. Remove steamer from
heat and allow to cool off for a few minutes.
TO SERVE This may be served hot or cold, and is very good served as a
hot hors d'oeuvre since it will also be tasty when it gets cooled
off! Slice into 1-inch squares to serve. It should be served with
a side dish of Nuoc MAM SAUCE (page 23) for dipping the
squares. This may also be served as a main dish, with a soup,
salad and rice.

FRIED FISH LOAF ON TOAST

This is an especially good hot hors d'oeuvre.
2 cloves garlic Chop and mash the garlic fine. Add to the basic FISH PASTE
2 lb. Fish Paste (page 25), kneading until thoroughly mixed in.
Thin-sliced bread Cut the bread into rounds or squares, of a size that can be
easily managed as an hors d'oeuvre. Spread the fish paste on
one side of the bread, in whatever thickness you like. You'd
probably better experiment a little to begin with, before the
guests begin to arrive.
Deep fat fryer, or Heat the oil and fry the fish-on-toast. Fry with the fish side
deep skillet down first, then the bread side.
2 inches of cooking oil
in fryer or skillet
TO SERVE Serve wrapped in leaf lettuce, with mint, Chinese parsley, and
a side dish of Nuoc MAM SAUCE (page 23) for dipping.
107
FRIED FISH PATTIES
This is good as an accompaniment to a heavier meal, as an hors (Toeuvre, as a
light luncheon with lettuce, or may be served as the main dish with rice, soup, and
salad.
2 cloves garlic Mash and chop the garlic cloves fine. Add to the basic FISH
2 lb. Fish Paste PASTE recipe (page 25) and continue to knead until thoroughly
mixed in.
Deep fat fryer Form the paste into small cakes about ½ inch thick, 3 or 4
2 inches cooking oil inches across, and drop into hot oil. Fry quickly, on medium
to medium high heat until brown on both sides (about 2 or 3
minutes).
TO SERVE Serve piping hot with rice, Nuoc MAM SAUCE (page 23) and
leaf lettuce, if used as a main dish or as an accompaniment to
a meal. Serve piping hot, with a side dish of Nuoc Mam Sauce
and a platter of leaf lettuce to wrap pieces of the cake in, if
served as an hors d'oeuvre.

PORK CHEESE
Some people object to the basic idea of eating pig's head. Just don't tell them what
they're eating and they will probably enjoy it very much! Makes a good hors
d'oeuvre, and is good for dieters. It is also easy to carry on a picnic.
1/3 cup (loose pack) In a 2-quart container, put the pieces of dried tree fungus (see
dried tree fungus page 20) to soak in hot water, for at least one hour. The pieces
Hot water to cover will expand considerably, and will resemble black, thin, mush-
rooms. When soft, cut the very large pieces in half and remove
the stems or any black specks where the fungus was growing
onto the tree.
¼ small pig's head, Ask the butcher to give you half a head, cleaned and boned,
boned It should have one ear and half the snout, and should have the
skin still on. Wash the head well, and clean off any remaining
bristles that you can easily get off. It will be easier to get the
head completely cleaned of bristles after it cooks a little while,
in the next step. Cut into 3 or 4 pieces.
Large pot Put the pieces in the pot and cover with cold water. Cover pot,
Water bring to a boil, and cook on high heat about 30 minutes.
Drain head meat in a colander, and rinse well under running
cold water to clean and cool. Cut in small pieces, not larger
than ¼ X 2 X 3 inches, cutting the ear into narrow strips, and
removing any remaining small bones. Also finish cleaning off"
any remaining bristles. Some people prefer less fat, so the
excess fat should be removed at this point if you don't want it.
Be sure to include the ears, skin, and snout. That is what makes
the cheese jell.
2 large shallots (or Slice shallots in very thin rounds. Heat the oil in a large skillet,
white part of green and saute the shallots for a few seconds, until the odor begins
onions) to rise. Add the pieces of tree fungus and head meat, reduce the
1 tbsp. cooking oil heat to medium and saute, stirring, about 3 minutes.
Large skillet
108
1½ tsp- peppercorns Add the whole peppercorns, stir, and continue to cook on
medium heat another 2 minutes. This gives a nice spicy flavor,
and is also decorative.
1½ tbsp.fishsauce Add fish sauce, stir well and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Re-
move from heat.
Bag made of cheese- At this step, in Vietnam, the mixture is wrapped in a ti leaf or
cloth or other loosely banana leaf and tied firmly. These leaves have no particular
woven cloth (about taste of their own and are very sturdy. It takes much practice
10 to 12 inches long, and dexterity to do this alone. A cloth bag will serve the same
3 or 4 inches across) purpose, and can be made at home. Stuff the meat mixture into
the bag, pressing it down into the bag so it is packed very, very
tight. When all is stuffed into the bag, tie the top or make the
bag with a drawstring, and hang it up to drip. Place it over a
pan or other container to catch the greasy drip. There will be
very little drip, actually; and the drip will jell into strings almost
like icicles on the bottom of the bag.
When thoroughly cooled, place into plastic bag (cloth bag and
all), or aluminum foil, to keep it from drying out. Put this
package into a loaf or other small pan, and put a heavy weight
on top, to press the mixture together more firmly. Chill in
refrigerator at least three hours before serving. It should be
firmly jelled, about the consistency of pressed ham.
TO SERVE Unwrap, remove the cloth bag, and cut in 1-inch slices. Cut
each slice into quarters or sixths. Serve cold, as hors d'oeuvres.
Best served with a side dish of Nuoc MAM SAUCE (page 23) as
a dip. May also be served as a light luncheon, with steamed
rice, leaf lettuce, and Nuoc Mam Sauce.

STEAMED BUNS Yield: two dozen

Here is another kind of bun that is good party fare, but is also an exceptionally
good meal in itself.
FILLING
3 dried mushrooms Soak the dried mushrooms and lily flowers together in warm
10 dried lily flowers water to cover until soft (about 15 minutes). Cut away the stem
(optional) portion of the mushrooms and discard. Discard the hard end
Warm water to cover of the lily flower stem. Chop all very fine.
Piece of bamboo shoot Drain the bamboo shoot. Be sure to use the Chinese kind,
(part of a can, op- because of the flavor. Chop the bamboo shoot, shallot, and
tional) shrimp very fine.
1 shallot (or 1 small
onion)
5 or 6 fresh (frozen)
shrimp, shelled
1/3 lb. lean ground pork Heat the cooking oil in the heavy skillet on medium high heat.
¼ tsp. salt Put in the ground pork, salt, pepper, chopped mushroom, lily
Dash of black pepper flowers, bamboo shoot, shallot, and shrimp. Saute, stirring
2 tbsp. cooking oil constantly, on medium high heat about 5 minutes.
Large heavy skillet
1 tsp.fishsauce Add the fish sauce, stir, and remove from heat. Set aside to
cool.
109
DOUGH
1½ cups rice flour Mix the egg white, salt, oil, and water together, beating well
½ cup potato flour with a fork. Mix the two kinds of flour in a large bowl. Pour in
1 egg white the water and egg mixture and mix well. Knead, when it gets
1 tsp. salt stiff. Put on a lightlyflouredboard and roll out. Fold the dough
¾ cup water over several times to make a ball of the dough, and roll out
1 tsp. cooking oil again. Repeat this folding and rolling process 5 or 6 times.
Roll out the dough as thin as possible. Cut into circles 3 or 4
inches across. Use a large cookie cutter or a cup, saucer, or
other round item, cutting around the edge with a very sharp
knife.
Place 1 teaspoonful offillingin the center, slightly to one side
of each circle. Fold the circle of dough in half over the filling
and crimp the edges closed, using the fingers or a fork. This
makes a flat- and fat-bottomed half-circle.
Steamer (page 10) Place hot water in the bottom section of the steamer. Put the
buns in the top section, standing each bun on its flat side, with
the crimped half-circle edge pointing up. Put the top section of
the steamer in place over the bottom, cover, and steam on high
heat about 30 minutes.
TO SERVE Serve hot, or warm. May be reheated in the steamer. If desired,
make a supply ahead and freeze them. Thaw before reheating.
Good served with Nuoc MAM SAUCE (page 23) as a dip.

LITTLE STUFFED BUNS

This is very good as an hors d'oeuvre, but may also be served with a dinner as
an accompaniment.
/ cup flour Cut in shortening as for pie dough. Lard is used in Vietnam,
3 tbsp. shortening because it is more available and because the flavor is preferred.
(lard)
1 egg Add the egg. Mix well, and knead several times. Roll out, fold
over, and roll out again. Repeat this rolling and folding 5 or 6
times.
STUFFING
½ lb. boiled lean pork Slice, then cut into very fine strips, then cut into smaller pieces
(page 23) (about1/8-inchcubes, or smaller).
5 dried mushrooms Soak mushrooms 15 minutes in warm water to cover. Chop
Water to cover very fine (same size as meat particles).
1 small onion Chop into fine pieces, same size as meat and mushrooms.
2 or 3 water chestnuts Chop water chestnuts and almonds into fine pieces, same size
2 tbsp. almonds as other ingredients.
1 tsp. oil Mix everything together, heat the oil and saute the mixture,
Medium skillet stirring, about 1 minute on medium high heat.
¼ tsp. salt Mix the salt, fish sauce, and pepper into the mixture in the
1 tbsp.fishsauce skillet, stir well, and cook about 3 more minutes on medium
Dash of black pepper heat. Set aside to cool.
110
 Back to the dough. Roll it as thin as possible. Paper thin, if you
can. Cut in approximately 3-inch squares.
Put a teaspoon of the meat mixture in the center of each square.
To fold up: First fold the third that is toward you over the meat.
Then fold the opposite side over. This will make an oblong
roll. Press the ends closed. Then fold each end in toward the
center.
TO BAKE Preheat oven to 350 F. Place the buns on a cookie sheet and
bake about 30 minutes, or until golden brown.
TO FRY Fry in deep fat, a few at a time, until golden brown.
These can be kept warm in the oven until served. Can be
frozen, and reheated in the oven after thawing.

STUFFED BREAD A baker's dozen

This stuffed bread is the Vietnamese version of an Asian favorite that was perhaps
originally Chinese. This dough is lighter than the usual, and the stuffing a little
tastier. It is easy to make this ahead of time in large quantities, and freeze for fu-
ture use. To freeze, be sure to steam the dough first. When removing from the
freezer, put the frozen buns into the steamer and steam about 20 minutes, or until
soft.
THE DOUGH Scald the milk, then set aside to cool until it is lukewarm.
¾ cup milk
1/3 cup lukewarm waterMix the sugar and water; add the yeast and let it soak at least
1/4 tsp. sugar 5 minutes. Then add the milk.
¾ tsp. dried yeast
3 cups flour Sift the flour, salt, and sugar together. Add theflourmixture to
¼ tsp. salt the milk and yeast mixture and mix well.
1 tsp. sugar
1 tbsp. shortening Melt the shortening and mix into the dough. Stir until the
dough forms a ball, then put out onto a lightly floured board
and knead until elastic (about 5 or 10 minutes). Form the
dough into a ball that should be soft but not sticky.
Medium-size bowl Put the dough into a clean bowl and cover with a damp cloth.
Cloth to cover Put it in a warm place (about 85° F.) until it doubles in bulk,
taking probably 2 or 3 hours, or it can be left overnight to rise,
if desired.
Punch the dough down and knead for only 2 or 3 minutes. Put
it back in the warm place for 20 or 30 minutes more, after
which it should be ready to use.
THE STUFFING Soak the dried shrimp in warm water to cover for about 15
3 tbsp. dried shrimp minutes. Chop fine. (This is optional—many people prefer to
(optional) omit or to substitute a few pieces of fresh shrimp.)
Warm water to cover
111
½ lb. lean ground pork Slice the shallots in very thin rounds. Slice the Chinese sau-
2 shallots (or white sages thin, at an angle. Mix the ground pork, shallots, sliced
part of green onions) sausages, salt, and monosodium glutamate. Then add the finely
2 Chinese sausages chopped shrimp. Mix all together well.
½ tsp. salt
Dash of monosodium
glutamate
1 tbsp.fishsauce Mix the fish sauce in, and set aside until the dough is ready to
be stuffed.
STUFFING VARIA- Some people prefer to saute the stuffing before putting it into
TION the middle of the dough. If you wish to try it, preheat the oil,
2 tbsp. cooking oil and saute the stuffing mix for 2 or 3 minutes on high heat,
Heavy skillet stirring constantly.
TO PREPARE Punch the dough down again. Pinch off an egg-sized lump of
13 squares white paper the dough and roll gently between the hands to make a ball.
(3x3 inches) Then flatten and spread with the hands, into a circle about 4
inches across. Put a heaping teaspoonful of the stuffing in the
center of the circle, pull the sides up and fold over and pinch
together to close; pat with the fingers to make a smooth ball.
Put the pinched-together side down on a square of white paper.
Let the buns raise another 15 or 20 minutes before steaming.
Steamer (see page 10) Put water in the bottom section of the steamer, and place on
high heat. In the upper section, place 4 buns (or 5, or 6, de-
pending on the size of your steamer). They will increase in size
so leave at least one inch between buns. Cover the upper sec-
tion of the steamer. Let the buns steam on high heat until done
(about 15 minutes).
TO SERVE Serve hot or cold. Good as a complete meal, with a little salad
or soup. Wonderful to take along on a picnic.

112
 INDEX

almond cookies, 101 beef

alum for candying fruit, 11 ground, with noodles, 65
asparagus soup with crab meat, 33 main dishes, 57-65
bamboo shoots soup-salad, 62
dried, 11 soup with
stewed with pineapple, 35
chicken, 86 tomatoes, 36
duck, 88 stew, 57
shrimp, 67 with
with bamboo shoots, 59
beef & sesame seeds, 57 cabbage, 60
beef, sauteed, 59 green beans, 60
banana noodles & vegetables, 64
cake, 100 noodles, sauteed, 61
with cashews, 100 sesame seed & bamboo shoots, 57
leaves, 11 squash, 58
barbecued steamed bread, 63
duck, 89 borax for cleaning shrimp, 12
whole, 90 bread
pork on skewers, 42 steamed, with beef saute, 63
shrimp patties, 105 stuffed, 111
basic recipes, 21-28 buns
bean curd, 12 steamed, 109
soup with pork, 29 stuffed, 110
bean sauce, 12 cabbage, 12
bean sprouts, 12 Chinese, 13
salad, pickled, 92 soup with fish cake, 32
with boiled pork, 92 soup with shrimp cake, 32
bean thread, 12 mustard, 13
soup with soup with shortribs, 31
chicken, 37 rolls, 49
crab & lily flowers, 34 with beef, 60
giblets, 36 cake
shrimp balls, 33 banana, 100
with with cashews, 100
chicken, 79 princess, 97
pork mix, 47 soft, coconut-sesame flavored, 99
beans, green, 11 candied winter melon, 103
with carambole, 20
beef saute, 60 caramelized
crab & mushroom saute, 72 pork, 45
shrimp saute, 70 rice pudding, 102
113
caramelized coconut-sesame filling, 98
sugar, 27 cookies, almond, 101
cashew nut banana cake, 100 Cornish hens, stuffed, 77
chestnuts, water, 20 cornstarch, 15
chicken crab meat
and bean thread, 79 loaf, steamed, 71
baked, 77 omelet, 73
boiled, 24 rolls with fried pork, 74
Cornish hens, stuffed, 77 soup with
curried, 80 asparagus, 33
fried with lily flowers & bean thread, 34
citronella, 80 sauteed with green beans & mushrooms,
rice, 85 72
tomatoes, 81 cucumber
giblets salad, 93
and vegetables, 83 stuffed, 50
soup with bean thread, 36 curried
main dishes, 77-87 chicken, 80
salad, 95 shrimp, 68
sauteed with vegetables, 82 desserts, 97-104
shredded with rice, 87 cake
soup-salad, 84 banana, 100
soup with banana with cashews, 100
bean thread, 37 princess, 97
rice, 38 soft, coconut-sesame flavored, 99
winter melon, 38 coconut-sesame filling, 98
steamed with ginger root, 78 cookies, almond, 101
stew with bamboo shoots, 86 orange confection, 104
chili pepper, 13 rice pudding, 102
Chinese sweet balls, fried, 100
cabbage, 13 winter melon, candied, 103
soup with fish cake, 32 duck, 88-91
soup with shrimp cake, 32 barbecued, 89
fish gravy, 15 whole, 90
noodles, 18 saffron, barbecued, 89
parsley, 13 sauteed with turnips, 90
peas, 13 soup, 39
rice sticks, 18 steamed, 88
sausage, 13 stewed with bamboo shoots, 88
shrimp sauce, 20 eggplant, 15
winter melon, 20 with pork, 44
yams, 13 equipment, 9-10
cinnamon, stick, 14 fish
citronella, 14 cake, soup with
with fried chicken, 80 Chinese cabbage, 32
coconut, 14 watercress, 32
filling, 98 gravy, 15
how to open, 14 loaf
juice, 15 on toast, 107
milk, 15, 26 steamed, 107
sesame-coconut soft cake, 99 paste, 25
water, 15 patties, fried, 108
stew with pork, 45 saffron fish, 67
114
 fish (continued) meat loaf (continued)
sauce, 15 fish, 107
soup, 32 pork, 46
flour, 15-16 shrimp, 106
manioc, 16 melon
potato, 16 bitter, 12
rice, 16 winter, 20
glutinous, 16 candied, 103
tapioca, 16 soup with chicken, 38
wheat, 15 soup with shortribs, 30
frying pans, 9 milk, coconut, 15, 26
fungus, tree, 20 mint, 16
giblets monosodium glutamate, 17
and vegetables, 83 mortar & pestle, 9
soup with bean thread, 36 mushrooms
ginger root dried, 17
dried, reconstituted, 16 fresh, 17
fresh, 16 sauteed with crab & green beans, 72
with steamed chicken, 78 straw, 17
green beans, see mustard cabbage, 13
beans, green soup with shortribs, 31
greens in soup with shortribs, 31 noodles
hors d'oeuvres, 105-112 Chinese, 17-18
bread, stuffed, 111 salad-soup, 52
buns with beef & vegetables, 64
steamed, 109 with ground beef, 65
stuffed, 110 Japanese, 18
fish loaf with ground beef, 65
on toast, 107 with sliced beef, 61
steamed, 107 nuoc leo sauce, 27
fish patties, 108 nuoc man sauce, 23
pork cheese, 108 oil, onion, 28
salad "sandwich," 96 omelet
shrimp crab meat, 73
leaf, steamed, 106 pork, 55
on toast, 106 pork & shrimp, 54
patties, 105 onion oil, 28
patties, barbecued, 105 onions, 18
ingredients green, 18
availability, 8 shallots, 19
described, 11-20 orange confection, 104
Japanese noodles (somen), 18 pancake-omelet, pork & shrimp, 54
knives, 9 papaya, 18
leeks, 16 green, salad, 94
lemon grass, 14 parsley, Chinese, 13
lilyflowers,16 paste, seefishpaste and shrimp paste
soup with crab & bean thread, 34 peanuts, 18
long rice, see peas, Chinese, 13
bean thread pepper, chili, 13
lotus root, 16 pickled bean sprouts
soup with shortribs, 30 salad, 92
meat loaf with boiled pork, 92
crab meat, 71 pig feet stew, 48
115
 pineapple, 18 roasts, pork, 40
soup with saffron, 19
beef, 35 duck, barbecued, 89
shrimp, 35 eggplant with pork, 44
pork fish, 67
barbecued on skewers, 42 salad-soup
boiled, 23 beef, 62
cabbage rolls, 49 chicken, 84
caramelized, 45 noodle, 52
cheese, 108 pork, 52
crab & fried pork rolls, 74 salads, 92-96
cucumbers, stuffed, 50 bean sprout, pickled, 92
main dishes, 40-56 with boiled pork, 92
meat loaf, 46 chicken, 95
noodle salad-soup, 52 cucumber, 93
omelet, 55 green vegetable, 94
pancake-omelet, 54 papaya, green, 94
pot roast, 40 pork rind, 95
rind, salad, 95 "sandwich," 96
shortribs, 42 soup-salad
sweet-sour, 41 beef, 62
soup-salad, 52 chicken, 84
soup with bean curd, 29 noodle, 52
stew, 40 turnip, 94
dry, 43 sauces
with coconut water, 45 fish, 15
with pigs feet, 48 nuoc leo, 27
stuffed cucumbers, 50 nuoc man, 23
stuffed tomatoes, 51 shrimp, 20
pork and tomato with
bean sprout salad, 92 fried shrimp, 69
bean thread, 47 shrimp, 70
eggplant, 44 sausage, Chinese, 13
shrimp pancake-omelet, 54 seafood, 66-76, see also
pot roast, pork 40 crab meat
pots, 10 fish
pudding, caramel rice, 102 shrimp
rice, 18 squid
cooked, 21 sesame seed, 19
with shredded chicken, 87 coconut-sesame cake, 99
flour, 19 filling for sweet balls, 98
fried with sweet balls, fried, 100
chicken, 85 with beef & bamboo shoots, 57
shrimp, 71 shallots, 19
glutinous, 18 shortribs
noodles, 17 soup with
paper, 19 lotus root, 30
pot roasted, 22 mustard cabbage, 31
pudding, 102 turnip, 31
roasted, 18 winter melon, 30
soup with chicken, 38 sweet-sour, 41
sticks, 18 shrimp, 19
wine, 19 balls, 33
116
shrimp (continued) soups (continued)
boiled, 24 shortrib with
cake, soup with mustard cabbage, 31
Chinese cabbage, 32 turnips, 31
watercress, 33 winter melon, 30
cleaning with borax, 12 shrimp and pineapple, 35
curried, 68 shrimp balls & bean thread, 33
dried, 19 shrimp cake and
fried in tomato sauce, 69 Chinese cabbage, 32
loaf, steamed, 106 watercress, 33
on toast, 106 soybean curd, 12
paste, 25 squash, 20
loaf, steamed, 106 bitter melon, 12
on toast, 106 zucchini with beef, 58
patties, barbecued, 105 squid, 20
patties, fried, 105 stuffed, 76
soup with Chinese cabbage, 32 star apple, 20
patties steamers, 10
barbecued, 105 stew
fried, 105 beef, 57
sauce, 20 chicken & bamboo, 86
saute, 66 duck & bamboo, 88
soup with pork, 40
bean thread, 33 and coconut water, 45
pineapple, 35 dry, 43
stew with bamboo shoots, 67 shrimp & bamboo, 67
shrimp and stuffed
fried rice, 71 cabbage rolls, 49
green bean saute, 70 cucumbers, 50
pork pancake-omelet, 54 squid, 76
tomato sauce, 70 tomatoes, 51
skewered pork, 42 sugar, caramelized, 27
skillets, 9 sweet balls, fried, 100
soup-salad sweet sour shortribs, 41
beef, 62 syrup, caramel, 27
chicken, 84 tea, 22
noodle, 52 ti leaves, 20
pork, 52 tomatoes, 20
soups, 29-39, see also stews paste, 20
beef and sauce with
pineapple, 35 fried shrimp, 69
tomato, 36 shrimp, 70
chicken with soup with beef, 36
bean thread, 37 stuffed, 51
rice, 38 with fried chicken, 81
winter melon, 38 tree fungus, 20
crab with turnip
asparagus, 33 salad, 94
lily flowers & bean thread, 34 sauted with duck, 90
duck, 39 soup with shortribs, 31
giblet & bean thread, 36 utensils, 9-10
lotus root & shortribs, 30 vegetables, green, salad, 94
pork & bean curd, 29 water chestnuts, 20
117
watercress soup with winter melon, 20
fish cake, 32 soup , 30, 38
shrimp cake, 33 yams, Chinese, 13
wine, rice, 19 zucchini squash with beef, 58

118