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uRieux Travelers
Nos

ITINERARY & BUDGET . THE BELLE ÉPOQUE . GLACIER EXPRESS . BERNINA EXPRESS

SWITZERLAND BY TRAIN
 11 14
BASE 24 31
BUDGET L ZWEISIMMEN MONTREUX

15 40
CHRISTMAS IN BASEL
CHUR

35 46
6
ZERMATT ZURICH

GOOD TO
KNOW
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DAY 3 DAY
Depart Basel by train for Spiez (1 hour Departure from Chur by train to Alp
30 minutes), then Spiez – Zweisimmen Grüm aboard the Bernina Express (2.5
DAY 1 & 2
(45 minutes). Stroll through the bucolic hours) through the Alps. Lunch in Alp
Basel village of Zweisimmen. Grüm with views of the Palü Glacier and
First scenic train ride of the trip: the Lake Poschiavo. Hike in the
DAY 7 & 8
Zurich GoldenPass Belle Epoque for 1 hour to surrounding area. Train journey from
Château d'Oex. Lunch at the Buffet de Alp Grüm to Bernina Diavolezza (20
la Gare in Château d'Oex, followed by a minutes). Walk in the surrounding area
stroll through the village to admire the to watch the sunset. Dinner and
various views of the mountains. overnight stay at the Ospizio Bernina
DAY 5
Chur Departure from Château-d'Oex aboard hotel.
DAY 3
Spiez the MOB GoldenPass Panoramic train
to Montreux (1 hour 10 minutes). Walk DAY 7
around Montreux, then overnight stay at Departure by train from Bernina
DAY 6
Alp Grum La Rouvenaz, opposite the quays. Diavolezza to Pontresina (30 minutes)
DAY 3 then hike in Val Roseg. Travel by train
Montreux
DAY 4 DAY 4 from Pontresina to Zurich (3 hours 20
Visège
Departure from Montreux by train to minutes). End the day exploring the
DAY 4
Visège (1 hour) then Visp – Zermatt (1 Christmas markets. Overnight stay at
Zermatt hour). Discover the town of Zermatt. the 25hours Hotel Langstrasse.
Ascent to Gornergrat by cog railway to
an altitude of 3,000 meters (30 minutes) DAY
to admire the Matterhorn and visit Depart by train from Zurich to Uetliberg
DAY 1 houses). Discover Basel Cathedral, the Zoom the Matterhorn. Stop at (25 minutes) to watch the sunrise over
Train journey from Rennes to Basel local Christmas market and its Rotenboden to photograph the the city. Breakfast at Uto Kulm in
(change in Paris). Arrival in Basel in the charming narrow streets (Stapfelberg, Matterhorn from different angles. Uetilberg. Option: hike from Uetliberg to
afternoon. Visit to Basel Christmas Martinsgasse, etc.). Visit the Museum of Return to Zermatt. Dinner and overnight Felsenegg. Afternoon exploring Zurich's
market and Adväntsgass Im Glaibasel Culture with its beautiful architecture stay at the Parkhotel Beau Site in historic center, boat trip on the lake,
market. Dinner at Nomad Eatery. Walk before heading back down to Marktplatz Zermatt. Christmas markets, and illuminations.
back via Marktplatz to see the town hall for the market. Lunch at the Markethalle Overnight stay at the 25hours Hotel
and the square at night (with the market. Afternoon at the Petersplatz DAY 5 Langstrasse.
Christmas tree in the courtyard). flea market (held every Saturday), the Day aboard the Glacier Express from
Overnight stay at the Consum botanical garden, then Spalentor, the Zermatt to Chur (5.5 hours). Arrival in
Residence by Krafft hotel. city gate. Then lose yourself in the Chur in the early afternoon, followed by
narrow streets, bookshops, antique a tour of the old town and Christmas
DAY 2 dealers, and street art: Spalenvorstadt, market.
Breakfast with a view of the Rhine and Spalenberg, Rosshofgasse, Naedberg, Dinner at Gansplatz and overnight stay
the city from the hotel. Walk around the Gerbergässlein. Dinner at Volkshaus at the Ambiente Hotel in Chur.
hotel neighborhood: Rheinpromenade Basel. Overnight stay at the Consum
(coastal walk with a view of the skyline), Residence by Krafft hotel.
Rheingasse (shops and pretty

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Paris, and you can fly there from

several cities in France, such as
GOOD TO Rennes, Nantes, and Lille. Finally, you
can of course cross the border by car,
KNOW as there are many crossing points!
Upon arrival, don't forget to purchase a
GEOGRAPHICAL LOCATION
"vignette autoroute" (motorway sticker)
Switzerland is a small country with 26
to drive in Switzerland: you can buy it at
cantons and vast natural resources. The
customs offices, gas stations, or post
Swiss landscape is divided into three
offices. It costs €39 and is valid for 14
main geographical areas: the Jura, the
months (from December 1 of the
Plateau, and the Alps. It has more than
previous year to January 31 of the
1,400 lakes and 140 glaciers, with a
following year). Remember to stick it on
total population of eight million.
your windshield, preferably on the
driver's side.
NATIONAL LANGUAGES
German, French, Italian, and Romansh.
EMERGENCY NUMBERS
It is compulsory to learn three official
144 (ambulance, medical emergencies),
languages at school!
118 (fire department),
ENTRY REQUIREMENTS
Information not applicable due to the
Covid_19 pandemic. As Switzerland is
part of the Schengen area, you only
need a valid identity card or passport. If
you wish to import or export goods,
please ensure you comply with customs
TRAVELING IN SWITZERLAND WHILE PREGNANT, MY
regulations and declare them.
EXPERIENCE
I traveled across Switzerland when I was five months pregnant. I found it to be a great
ACCESS FROM FRANCE
destination in my situation because it's not far from France in case of any problems,
Option we highly recommend:
and there are good hospitals there. I actually had to visit the hospital in Chur
Switzerland is also accessible in just
(nothing to do with the trip or the destination, more out of fear than anything else in
three hours by train, thanks to the TGV
the end), and the team at the mother and child hospital was really lovely and
Lyria from Paris-Gare-de-Lyon, with an
responsive. Luckily, I had taken out insurance with Chapka Assurances (which I do
average of 17 round trips per day. Flying
whether I'm pregnant or not!), which meant we didn't have to pay the costs (there
is the fastest way to get to Switzerland.
were about €500 in costs for the tests I had done). During those eight days, I
Geneva, for example, is only 1 hour and
enjoyed the different journeys/landscapes and the comfort of the Swiss trains. It
10 minutes from Paris, and you can fly
made us want to repeat the experience with our future baby! As for altitude, my
there from several cities in France, such
doctor recommended that I not go above 3,000 meters and, above all, not overexert
as Rennes, Nantes, and Lille. Finally, you
myself when I was in the mountains. I followed this advice to the letter! This
can of course cross the border by car, as
recommendation was specific to my situation and general health, so I advise you to
there are many border crossings!
consult your doctor beforehand. In terms of food, I always found dishes that suited
my pregnancy-related restrictions, which I really appreciated!

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When is the best time to visit whatever the season. We were lucky
Switzerland? enough to travel on three of them: the
Switzerland can be visited all year MOB GoldenPass Belle Epoque
round. We stayed there twice: this between Zweisimmen and Montreux;
winter between December 8 and 19 (by the Glacier Express between Zermatt
train) and in early fall between and Chur; and the Bernina Express
September 6 and 17 (by van). In winter, between Chur and Alp Grum. If you
we were lucky to have great weather choose this way of traveling in
and quite a bit of snowfall before our Switzerland, the Swiss Travel Pass is
arrival, so you can imagine how beautiful ideal for saving money. There are
the landscapes were! In the fall, we had versions for 3, 4, 8, or 15 days, offering
25°C every day and very sunny unlimited access to trains, buses, boats,
weather. A week later, it was a premium panoramic trains, public
complete change as it started to snow! transport in over 90 towns, 500
The weather and temperatures vary museums, the Rigi, Stanserhorn and
greatly from one canton to another. Stoos mountain trains, as well as a 50%
Every season has its own charm in discount on other mountain trains and
Switzerland: fall for enjoying the 30% on SBB (Swiss Federal Railways)
orange-hued landscapes, winter for offers. With this pass, you don't have to
skiing and admiring the snow-covered reserve your train, except for the Glacier
panoramas, spring and summer for Express, Bernina Express, Gotthard
hiking in mild, dry weather. If you have Panorama Express, and Palm Express.
the opportunity, traveling outside of We liked the fact that the train tracks and
school holidays is always the best schedules are posted for the entire
option for avoiding crowds and getting year, so you don't have to go back to
the lowest prices. the station to check the track!
Information and reservations at: sbb.ch.
Traveling by train through Switzerland
The railway rail network is 2nd class fares per adult
simply incredible, highly well 3 days - $232
developed and serving even the most 6 days – 359 CHF
Car or train? Our opinion You have to stick to a schedule, but there
unlikely places. It has over 5,100 8 days – 389 CHF
In the fall of 2020, we traveled across are so many trains and connections that
kilometers of track, from the largest 15 days – 429 CHF
Switzerland in a van. We loved the it's not a problem at all! We also liked
intercity lines to the smallest mountain
experience. The road network is the fact that we could relax on the train
lines. There are so-called tourist trains, First class rates per adult
impeccable and well maintained, even in and simply enjoy the scenery. In winter,
with panoramic carriages that travel 3 days – 369 CHF
the mountains and tunnels! We enjoyed many roads are closed due to snow,
through magical landscapes, 6 days – 570 CHF
being able to stop whenever and which is not the case with the train. I
8 days – 617 CHF
wherever we wanted, but we have to think that if we come back with the baby
15 days – 675 CHF in the coming months/years, we'll take
admit that parking costs are quite
regulated and expensive, both in cities the train in winter and maybe the car in
and in the countryside! The train forces summer!
us to

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DETAILED BUDGET
in detail for 8 days

In Switzerland, the currency is the Swiss franc (CHF). It is quite easy to convert, as 1
CHF is practically equivalent to 1 €. Credit cards are accepted everywhere, except
sometimes in small bars and restaurants in the mountains (but it is rare that they do
not accept them). It is important to note that the cost of living in Switzerland is high, and
that the salaries of its inhabitants are consequently high too!
Switzerland is usually associated with luxury tourism, but even though we were
lucky enough to stay in some breathtaking establishments during our getaway, we
realized that with a little planning, it was possible to save money. If you want to
save a few bucks, don't hesitate to travel off-season like we did, avoiding school
holidays. When it comes to transportation, the Swiss Travel Pass is the holy grail for
saving money on trains, boats, and cable cars.

TRANSPORT

- Return train ticket Paris–Switzerland with TGV Lyria ($115 per person);
- 8-day Swiss Travel Pass (€373 per person).

ACCOMMODATION

- 2 nights at the Consum Residence by Krafft hotel in Basel (€360);

- 1 night at the La Rouvenaz hotel in Montreux (€110);
- - 1 night at the Parkhotel Beau Site in Zermatt (€400);
- 1 night at the Ambiente Hotel in Chur (€130);
- - 1 night at the Ospizio Bernina hotel in Val Poschiavo (€70);
- 2 nights at the 25 hours Langstrasse hotel (€350).

***

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ROAD TRIP BY TRAIN

* BASEL *

GEOGRAPHICAL LOCATION your car for the duration of your visit to

Ideally located on the border between Basel. It is difficult to drive in the city
France and Germany, Basel is center, but don't panic, the city has an
Switzerland's cultural capital. It excellent transport network: trams and
stretches along both banks of the Rhine buses. You never have to wait very
and is partially separated from the rest long! Otherwise, it is very pleasant to
of Switzerland by the Jura mountains. stroll through the different
neighborhoods on foot.
GETTING AROUND BASEL for children, homemade food products, ...
We arrived by train from Paris, which is jewelry by local designers, and much It feels like being in a small village
the fastest and most eco-friendly way to PLACES TO more. If you can, try to visit the square! At the end of the street, don't
get to Basel. If you come by car, we
recommend parking outside the city or VISIT? Christmas markets during the week or
when they open on weekends (at 11
miss "Le Cra-quelon," a courtyard with
ski cabins! You can enjoy a fondue in
in an underground car park and leaving a.m.). one of them with your partner or friends
CHRISTMAS MARKETS
From late November to late December, (expect to pay CHF 150 for two or CHF
Basel hosts its traditional Christmas ADVÄNTSGRASS IM GLAIBASEL 220 for four). Outside the cabins, there
markets. The main one, the The lovely Christmas food market are individual tables set up around a
"Weihnachtsmarkt," is located on located below our hotel (the Consum wood fire that you have to keep warm,
Münsterplatz. The various chalets offer Residence by Krafft). The atmosphere and you can even grill sausages and
gift ideas featuring local and here is unlike anywhere else! It's a spot marshmallows. Among the prettiest
international crafts, as well as local that's not well known among tourists, stands are: "Der Scharmör" (a vintage
cuisine. The second market, at the foot but it's definitely worth a visit! All along Vespa food truck with a wooden
of the cathedral on Barfüsserplatz, is Rheingasse street, there are about display), "Bubble Waffle Crêpes" (in a
our favorite! The wooden stalls are twenty vintage vans and huts serving as gold-colored Estafette), the Re-née bar,
beautifully decorated with customized bars/cafés or small restaurants offering and Smuk Bar Brunchery. Open from 6
skis, lots of fairy lights, Christmas trees, local and international specialties. The p.m. on weekdays and from noon on
and more. We also loved the selection atmosphere is really nice: everyone weekends.
of quality products on offer, including knows each other, it's cheerful and has a
wooden toys very guinguette style with fairy lights

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MARKTPLATZ AND CITY HALL If you want to reach the historic center,
A true hub of the city, there is such you can take one of the Basel ferries:
excitement in this square! It's hard to "Wild Maa,"
know where to look first, between the "Leu," "Vogel Gryff," and "Ueli." A
dozens of trams passing by, the bright surprising backdrop for your photos!
colors of City Hall, and the market that
takes place every day... In December, BASEL CATHEDRAL AND
don't miss the huge Christmas tree in ITS NARROW STREETS
the courtyard of City Hall. The setting is With its two imposing towers, it's
splendid both day and night, with its impossible to miss this symbol of the
murals as a backdrop! At the market, city. It represents two architectural
you'll find vintage food trucks, fruits and styles: it is both Gothic and
vegetables, and many florists. The Romanesque, due to an earthquake in
stands are beautifully presented, and at 1356 that partially damaged it. For an
Christmas, the pine wreaths are to die exceptional view of the city, you can
for! visit one of the two towers, provided you
climb the 250 steps leading to the
RHEINPROMENADE platform! We loved getting lost in the
After crossing the Mittlere Brücke bridge cobbled streets around the cathedral,
(dating from 1226), take a stroll along they are so charming! Our favorites:
the Rhine with the Basel skyline in your Münsterplatz, the Museum of Culture
sights: the cathedral and its magnificent (for its architecture), Stapfelberg,
waterfront residences. A bucolic Martinsgasse...
atmosphere at sunset, not to be missed!
THE PETERSPLATZ FLEA MARKET
PETERSPLATZ
When it comes to vintage finds, we're
always happy to discover places like the
Petersplatz flea market (which we
stumbled upon completely by chance!).
It takes place every Saturday from 7:30 a.m. to
4 p.m. on this pretty square surrounded
by colorful houses. In winter, there are
only about ten vendors, compared to
summer when there are more than
thirty! Little treasures to be found:
books, secondhand luxury leather
goods, furniture, secondhand clothes...

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THE BOTANICAL GARDEN ARCHITECTURE

OF THE UNIVERSITY OF When historic architecture meets
BASEL modern architecture! Today, you can
Just opposite Petersplatz, you can't discover numerous buildings designed
miss one of the oldest botanical gardens by world-renowned architects. Among
in the country (if not Europe!). There are the most incredible are the Novartis
two greenhouses with a wide range of Campus, the Museum of Culture in the
cacti, succulents, tropical plants, and water heart of medieval Basel, the Basel
lilies. Open daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Exhibition Center and its window to the
Free admission. A beautiful green oasis sky, the Vitra Campus, and the
in the heart of the city. Kunstmuseum Basel, built by Wilfrid
and Katharina Steib.
SPALENTOR AND ITS NARROW
STREETS
Also known as Splaen, this medieval Other places to visit in Basel
gate is one of the last three (out of
seven) in the city dating back to the - Papiermühle (the
Middle Ages. It is one of the most paper museum in a magnificent setting)
beautiful photo spots in the city, located - The Artstübli gallery
on Spalen Street with its tall buildings, the - The Tinguely Museum
gate in the background, and the tram Dedicated to the works of Jean Tinguely
running through the middle. The - Kuntsmuseum
neighborhood around Spalentor is worth A world-renowned art museum
a visit, with its small designer boutiques,
antique shops, bookstores, and
charming little streets such as
Spalenvorstadt, Spalenberg,
Rosshofgasse, Naedberg, and
Gerbergässlein.

STREET ART
Basel's artistic side is on display at every
turn! Have fun searching for the most beautiful
works! Among our favorites is the mural by the
artist collective "The London Police" located
behind the Harmo-nie restaurant, depicting a
woman lying on her back. In the summer,
when the leaves cover part of the wall, it
looks as if they are her hair. Other street art
wonders include the "Big Wall" on a wall
surrounding the Bell meat processing plant
and the work of the biggest rock stars on
Gerbergässlein.

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Kleinbasel. The establishment is also a

boutique hotel, which looks very stylish,
ADDRESSES combining modern and minimalist
NOMAD EATERY styles. On the restaurant menu: meat
and fish in a chic setting, smart dress
Steineberg 7 – One of Basel's best
recommended. Expect to pay around
places for lunch and dinner. The food is
CHF 40 on average for a main course.
delicious and high quality, the service is
very friendly, and the atmosphere is For information and reservations, visit volkshaus-
basel.ch.
great! A beautifully designed
establishment that perfectly blends raw
and concrete elements. Expect to pay SOHO BASEL
an average of CHF 30 per dish. Steinevorstadt 54 – A great bar to spend
For information and reservations, visit your weekend evenings! Both timeless
nomad.ch. and welcoming, it offers a wide variety
of drinks, ranging from classic cocktails
NEUE ALTE MARKTHALLE to various wines and spirits selected by
professionals.
Steinentorberg 20 – Our favorite spot in
Basel! Just a few minutes' walk from the Information and reservations at sohobasel.ch.
train station, this food market is located
in Basel's historic old market hall. You BALTAZAR BAR
can't miss it—it's a large concrete dome Steinenbachgässlein 34 – A bar with a
inspired by Wes Anderson's "Acci- 1970s vibe and a spacious terrace with a
dentaly." Every day, stalls offering view! Baltazar Bar is renowned for its
culinary specialties from around the mixology, so you won't be disappointed!
world are open from 9 a.m. to midnight. In winter, they set up a yurt on the
A must-see! terrace so you can enjoy a drink in the
For more information, visit warmth!
altemarkthalle.ch. Information and reservations at baltazarbar.ch.

CAMPARI BAR
Steineberg 7 – This is THE bar not to
be missed in Basel. An elegant yet
relaxed atmosphere for a drink before or
after dinner. Open every evening from
5:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.

VOLKSHAUS BASEL
Redgasse 12 – This charming bar-
restaurant was located a stone's throw
from our hotel (the Consum Residence
by Kaf-ft) in the great Altstadt

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Résidence, and the atmosphere is

fantastic! Very good value for money.
Where to stay? Expect to pay around CHF 200 per
night for a double room. Information and
CONSUM RESIDENCE by Krafft reservations at consumbasel.ch.
This charming 3-star hotel is located in
the heart of Kleinbasel, on the banks of
the Rhine. We really loved staying here,
in our favorite neighborhood during our
Other accommodation in Basel
weekend in Basel. The establishment is
divided into two parts: the hotel rooms
- Art House Basel
in the main building and the apartments Design hotel (CHF 170 per night)
in the building opposite. - Basel Youth Hostel
Very stylish youth hostel (CHF 120
The apartment was gorgeous, with
per night)
some pretty exceptional decorative
touches and a stunning view of the city - Volkshaus Basel Hotel
from our window. The breakfast was Arty 4-star hotel (CHF 170 per night)
fantastic, the staff were very attentive... - Hyperion Hotel Basel
You can go there with your eyes closed! Breathtaking view of the
During the Christmas period, the city (CHF 150 per night)
Christmas food market takes place in - Gast Der Teufelhof Basel
the street where One of the best establishments, in a
quiet location (CHF 170 per night)

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Tiles and old-fashioned nets are

installed throughout the train for storing
belongings... The only thing missing
was a ticket inspector in vintage
ROAD TRIP BY TRAIN uniform! In addition to the idyllic setting
of the train, the landscapes will remain
* TWO PEOPLE * etched in our memories forever! We
traveled through snow-covered alpine
landscapes worthy of a postcard! On the
agenda: lakes, valleys, mountains,
chalets... A beautiful way to discover
the Bernese Oberland, the Lavaux
We left Basel early in the morning, During our visit in mid-December, we
vineyards, the Gruyère valley and
taking the train to Spiez (1 hour 30 recommend getting lost in the narrow
Gstaad. The journey is included in the
minutes) and then Zweisimmen (45 streets, which are lined with numerous
Swiss Travel Pass. Reservations for this
minutes). The journey between Spiez and cafés and pretty traditional wooden
train are not mandatory but
Zweisimmen is simply unforgettable; it chalets. Two of our favorite streets are
recommended. If you haven't opted for
is one of our fondest memories of Montreuxstrasse and Lerchgasse. If you
the Swiss Travel Pass, check the timetables
Switzerland. Snow had fallen the night want to stay here, the Rin-derberg
and fares at mob.ch. From CHF 16.50
before and the sky was a beautiful blue. Swiss Alpine Lodge and Sonnegg Hotel
from Zweisimmen to Montreux.
Each train stop was in the middle of the seem like great options for exploring the
countryside, surrounded by mountains surrounding area!
(often request stops), and we had fun
opening the doors to take photos. We The MOB GoldenPass Belle Epoque
didn't know where to look first! The most The most beautiful train we traveled on
beautiful stops were Oberwil Im in Switzerland! The MOB GoldenPass
Simmental, Boltigen, and Grubenwald. Belle Epoque is a historic train that
It makes us want to come back and connects Zweisimmen to Montreux in
spend more time there next time! The two hours. From the outside, the
village of Zweisimmen is located at an carriages are reminiscent of the Orient
altitude of 947 meters. It is a small Express with their old-fashioned gold
winter sports resort, also renowned for lettering and midnight blue color. Inside,
its hiking trails. We made a short one- we spent a long time saying "wow"...
hour stop there before taking the MOB And with good reason! You are
GoldenPass Belle Époque panoramic transported to another era, aboard
train. Next time, I think we'll stay for the luxurious wooden carriages with green
day to enjoy a beautiful walk to Lake velvet seats. It's exactly how we
Seebergsee or the Horneggli - imagine the Orient Express to be!
Hornberg - Rinderberg route. T h e r e Everything is perfect, down to the
was quite a lot of snow. smallest detail: the lighting, the
embroidery on the seats...

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CHÂTEAU D'OEX
After an hour aboard the MOB GoldenPass Belle Epoque train bound for Montreux,
we stopped in the charming mountain village of Château d'Oex. The advantage is
that there is a train every hour to Montreux: either the MOB GoldenPass Belle
Epoque or the MOB GoldenPass Panoramic. Located at an altitude of 1,000 meters
in the Lake Geneva region, French is spoken here! The village is renowned as the
world capital of hot air ballooning in the Alps. There is even an international balloon
festival in January! What an incredible sight that must be! This is also where you
can buy the famous L'Etivaz AOP cheese, produced over a wood fire. In summer,
the destination is best known for its white water sports, with 4 to 8-person rafts (from
mid-April to the end of August). During our short two-hour stopover, we had lunch at
the station buffet, where we enjoyed delicious homemade rösti! We then took a stroll
around the village, which is spectacularly set among the high mountains
surrounding Château d'Oex. It feels like something out of a picture postcard!

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The MOB GoldenPass Panoramic modern train with floor-to-ceiling

On the return journey from Château windows! It certainly has a different
d'Oex to Montreux, we took the MOB charm, but it offers a different
GoldenPass Panoramic, which follows perspective on the mountain scenery. As
the same route as the MOB with the start of the journey, the section
GoldenPass Belle Époque. For your between Château d'Oex and Montreux is
information, there is a panoramic train just as beautiful as between Zweisimmen
every hour, so you may end up on either and Château d'Oex, so you won't be
the Belle Époque or the Panoramic. disappointed with the trip! The journey is
Everything is similar: the scenery and included in the Swiss Travel Pass. If you
the route, except that the carriages do have not opted for the Swiss Travel Pass,
not have the same historical character check the timetables and fares on
as the Belle Époque. It is a mob.ch. From CHF 16.50 from
Zweisimmen to Montreux.

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ROAD TRIP BY TRAIN

* MONTREUX *

What to do in Montreux during

Christmas?
GOOD TO THE CHRISTMAS MARKET
We only spent one evening in Montreux,
KNOW
LOCATION mainly enjoying the Christmas
Montreux is ideally located on the festivities, and the least we can say is
shores of Lake Geneva, surrounded by that Montreux doesn't mess around!
mountains, forests, meadows, and "Montreux Noël" takes place every year
vineyards, just a few miles from France. from mid-November to December 24.
The town stretches from the heights (at The Christmas market stretches along
2,042 meters) to the lake shore (at 371 the quays with a magnificent view of
meters), so you can imagine how steep Lake Geneva and the surrounding
it is! mountains. The 150 small illuminated
wooden chalets offer culinary
GETTING AROUND MONTREUX specialties, gift ideas, and handmade
We arrived in the heart of the city by products.
train from Zweisimmen. If you are For more information on the program of
visiting Lausanne, you are only 19 festivities, visit montreux-noel.com.
minutes by train from Montreux, so it
would be a shame to miss it! THE HUNTERS' AREA
From the train station, you're just a few This covered food court was a great
minutes from the quays and a 10- experience! Located in a large wood-
minute walk from the city center. Once paneled hall, the stands are beautifully
there, we mainly walked around, but decorated according to the specialty
there is a "VMCV" bus network that runs they represent: tartiflette, raclette, rösti,
every 10 minutes along the lake, etc. There is a great atmosphere and
between Vevey and Villeneuve via some delicious dishes to discover!
Montreux.

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THE FERRIS WHEEL LA POYA

If you're only staying for one evening After a wonderful day on the train and
like us, don't miss the Ferris wheel at ending the day at the Christmas market,
the Christmas market for a bird's eye we had only one thing on our minds: a
view of the city, lake, and mountains... delicious traditional fondue! In the heart
The panoramic view is breathtaking! of the Christmas market is a huge
Best enjoyed at sunset or after dark wooden chalet housing a restaurant
with the city's magnificent lights. dedicated to fondue. The atmosphere is
friendly and the fondue is delicious!
THE LOGGER'S CABIN Reservations are not required, but the
This magnificent log cabin is a friendly, place is large enough that you won't
festive place to enjoy mulled wine, have to wait very long.
wood-fired pizzas, or even logger's tea.

LIGHT ON ICE / ICE BAR Other places to visit in Montreux

From late November to mid-January,
enjoy the ice rink located in the
Convention Center, a place full of
- The old town of Montreux
- Boat trip on Lake Geneva
Where to stay?
surprises and beautiful lights. A bar - Queen Studio Experience
made entirely of ice is also a must-see Museum dedicated to LA ROUVENAZ
and a unique experience. Queen and Freddie A beautiful 3-star hotel in a great
Mercury location on the banks of Lake Geneva
FLYING SANTA CLAUS - Rochers-de-Naye in Montreux. If you're only staying for
Without a doubt our favorite attraction: Magnificent promontory overlooking the lake one night between trains, it's ideally
seeing Santa Claus flying over - Lavaux located just a 5-minute walk from the
Montreux on his sleigh, to the delight of Vineyards on the heights of Montreux station. During the Christmas season,
young and old alike! He flies over the - The Chocolate Train the market and Ferris wheel are right
quays between the Espace des Culinary journey from Montreux to Montbovon outside the hotel! From CHF 100 per
Chasseurs and the Christmas Market night. For more information and
square every day at 5 p.m., 6 p.m., and reservations, visit rouvenaz.ch.
7 p.m. A word of advice: arrive a little
early to get a good view, or head to the Other accommodation in Montreux
steps of La Poya restaurant or the Ferris
wheel to get a better vantage point. An - Hotel Victoria Glion
unforgettable spectacle! Hotel in the hills above Montreux with
lake views (250 CHF)
- B&B Guest House du Lac Guesthouse
on the lake, good value for money (100
CHF)
- Grand Hotel Suisse Majestic
Autograph Collection – Exceptional
establishment (250 CHF)

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SWITZERLAND

TRAIN ROAD TRIP

* ZERMATT *

Zermatt is dominated by the magnificent by train. The train journey between Täsch
Matterhorn, which rises to 4,478 meters. and Zermatt is simply magical—you'll
With its pyramid shape, it is none other love it! Once in the village, everything is
than the famous mountain depicted on easily accessible on foot, but it can
Toblerone chocolate packaging, and is quickly become complicated with
also the most photographed mountain in suitcases and snow! In this case, most
the world! In summer and winter alike, it hotels offer a free shuttle from the train
blends beautifully into the alpine landscape. station to the hotel, so don't hesitate to
We took advantage of our visit to call them to request a pick-up, and the
Zermatt to discover some breathtaking same for the return journey. If you want
photo spots, always with the Matterhorn to get from one place to another, there
in our sights. is an electric bus that serves several
stops or a taxi service. Even though the
village is car-free, be careful, as electric
GOOD TO cars can sometimes drive fast! In the
summer, don't hesitate to rent bikes,
KNOW which are a great way to get around the
valley.
GEOGRAPHICAL LOCATION
On the border with Italy, Zermatt is a
world-famous ski resort located in the
canton of Valais at the end of the
Mattertal valley. At the foot of the
Matterhorn, the resort is 1,620 meters
above sea level.

GETTING AROUND ZERMATT

Cars are not allowed in the resort, so
you have to take the train from Täsch (5
kilometers). You can park directly at the
station, and the cost of parking is
included in the ticket.

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exceptional panorama of glaciers and

mountains. This is where the highest
PLACES TO hotel in Europe is located! You can
also discover the charming "Bernhard
VISIT von Aosta" chapel, a panoramic
THE OLD TOWN platform, and even a photographic
A touch of yesteryear in the heart of the theme for photographing the 29
resort! As you wander through the mountains over 4,000 meters high
narrow streets, you can discover more between Switzerland and Italy.
than 30 historic buildings dating from
the 16th to 18th centuries: barns ZOOM THE MATTERHORN
(formerly used to store hay), Haut-Va- Located at Gornergrat. A unique
Laisans granaries (formerly used to multimedia adventure on Mount Cervin
store food), and more. A magnificent to discover the valley's 29 4,000-meter
walk in the heart of the mountains, just peaks throughout the four seasons.
as beautiful in summer as in winter! There is even a virtual reality simulator
that makes you feel like you are
GORNERGRAT paragliding! This experience is available
We took the mountain train to at the old "Hohtälli" cable car station.
Gornergrat, at Included with the ticket to Gornergrat.
3, 089 meters above sea level,
during ROTENBODEN / RIFFELSEE
30 minutes. It costs €118 per person for Taking the cog railway from Gornergrat,
a round trip or €59 per person if you stop at the next station, "Rotenboden,"
have a Swiss Travel Pass. Alternatively, at an altitude of 2,815 meters. In
you can walk there, paying a hiking fee summer, don't miss the hike to Lake
starting at €34.80 per day. The journey Riffelsee (45 minutes round trip) to see
aboard the world's first cog railway, the the famous Matterhorn reflected in the
Gornergratbahn, is an unforgettable lake.
experience in itself! We were lucky It's a great spot to watch the sunset! In
enough to go there in both summer and winter, we stayed closer to home
winter, and the scenery is simply because there was a lot of snow (if you
breathtaking, with mountains, larch and want to hike in the area, it's best to
Swiss stone pine forests, gorges, and bring snowshoes)! There's a
mountain lakes! In 30 minutes, the train "Toblerone" photo spot with the
climbs 9.4 kilometers from 1,620 meters Matterhorn in the background—it's
(Zermatt) to 3,089 meters (Gornergrat). amazing!
At the top of the station, in Gornergrat,
you can enjoy an exceptional panoramic
view of the glaciers and mountains. This is
where the highest hotel in Europe is
located! You can also discover the
charming "Bernhard von Aosta" chapel,
a panoramic platform, and the

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Other spots in Zermatt THE GLACIER , the famous Landwasser Viaduct, the
EXPRESS Oberalp Pass and the Swiss Jungfrau-
- 360 kilometers of slopes between When you think of train travel, you Aletsch Alps. On board, you can enjoy
Switzerland and Italy naturally think of the legendary the restaurant service. We opted for the
(21 kilometers in summer) Glacier Express, the slowest express daily special at CHF 44, which included
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise (3,883 meters), train in the world, connecting Zermatt a starter, main course, and dessert. If
the highest viewpoint in Europe to St. Moritz in eight hours. For this you don't like the daily menu, you can
- 400 kilometers of hiking trails trip, we stopped in Chur after five and a always choose from the à la carte
in summer half hours of taking in the sights. The menu!
- 100 kilometers of bike trails Rothorn train itself offers comfort and wonder, It was very good and the staff on board
(3,103 meters), for an exceptional with large windows allowing were very friendly. The journey is
panoramic view of the mountains passengers to contemplate the included in the Swiss Travel Pass, and
mountains, valleys, lakes, and reservations for this train are
magnificent little villages. mandatory. If you have not opted for the
Where to sleep? We loved it! The room was spacious,
the bed very comfortable, and there
The Glacier Express crosses more than Swiss Travel Pass, check the timetables
291 bridges, 91 tunnels and climbs to and fares at glacierexpress.ch.
THE MATTERHORN FOCUS HOTEL was a breathtaking view of Zermatt with 2,033 meters. Among the most
We stayed at this sumptuous hotel in the Matterhorn in the background. The incredible spots on the trip are the
the hills above Zermatt, at the foot of hotel has a wellness area with a Rhine Gorge
the Matterhorn, last year during our swimming pool, jacuzzi, and spa. The
summer vacation in Switzerland. Both breakfast was excellent! The best place
modern and chic, it allowed us to spend we stayed in Switzerland, along with the
the night in a magnificent room with a Matterhorn Focus (also in Zermatt).
view of the Matterhorn, designed by From €350 per night. Information and
Swiss designer Heinz Julen. The hotel reservations at beausi-tezermatt.ch.
has an indoor and outdoor swimming
pool, set in a magnificent natural setting.
Special mention for the friendly staff Where to eat?
and the generous breakfast! Free
shuttle service to and from Zermatt train Parkhotel Beau Site
station. From €200 per night. Our hotel's restaurant, great value for
Information and reservations at money, generous portions. $$
matterhorn-focus.ch. CasaMia
A great Italian restaurant just a stone's
PARKHOTEL BEAU SITE throw from the train station. $$
For this winter break in Zermatt, we - Findlerhof
stayed at the sumptuous Parkhotel Mountain restaurant serving Swiss specialties.
Beau Site, which has just been $$$
renovated! The atmosphere is - Walliserstube Zermatt
reminiscent of the world of Wes Traditional cuisine from all over Switzerland.
Anderson. $$
- Saycheese
Fondue and raclette on the menu! $$

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 SWITZERLAND

ROAD TRIP BY TRAIN

* CHUR *

Welcome to Switzerland's oldest city, Winter is the perfect time for a

capital of the canton of Graubünden, at getaway between two scenic train
the foot of the mountains! Whether rides: the Glacier Express and the
you're passing through by car (as we Bernina Express. The pedestrianized
did last summer) or by train, this is a old town is worth a detour for its
must-see! Chur is ideally located a few cobbled streets and colorful houses—
kilometers from the Rhine Gorge, the it's a bit like the Swiss version of
Landwasser Viaduct, and Lake Notting Hill! There are also small
Caumasee (accessible by car). In designer boutiques and trendy coffee
shops that are really nice. We loved
the relaxed lifestyle of this alpine
village. A word of advice? To visit it,
just lose yourself in it—that's the best
way to appreciate it!

OUR ADDRESSES
GASTHOUSE GANSPLATZ
Restaurant serving local specialties,
definitely worth trying!

AMBIENTE HOTEL
Right in the heart of the historic center.
Around CHF 110 per night.

HOTEL STERN
Where we stayed last summer, a great
hotel and very good restaurant with a
menu of Graubünden specialties. From
CHF 150 per night.

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OSPIZIO BERNINA
The tiny mountain station "Bernina Diavolezza" is surrounded by high snow-capped
mountains. Here, out of season, you won't meet anyone, but during school holidays
the place is popular for winter sports and hiking in summer. We decided to stay the
night here, at the Albergo Ospizio Bernina inn, which provides a shuttle service
(you have to call before arriving) from the station.
The location is peaceful, our room was comfortable, and the evening meal and
breakfast were fantastic—we loved it! Of course, what we liked best were the
landscapes of Val Poschiavo and the tranquility of this white paradise.
From CHF 70 per night, information and reservations at bernina-hospiz.ch.

THE BERNINA EXPRESS Palü (3,905 meters) or Lago Bianco, a

This scenic train connects Chur to Tirano magnificent turquoise lake in the heart
(Italy) in four hours, and in summer, you of the mountains. The Bernina Express
can reach Lugano by bus in three hours. then stops at Alp Grüm for 20 minutes
In terms of scenery, it's the most to enjoy the view of the Palü glacier.
spectacular journey of our trip through There is a nice restaurant here, and you
Switzerland... and for good reason: the can then go hiking along the many
railway line between Thusis and Tirano trails!
is even listed as a UNESCO World After this stop, the Bernina Express
Heritage Site. That says it all! To say continues on to Tirano, and we take
the least, it was a feast for the eyes: the another train to the "Bernina
train winds its way through the Alps, Diavolezza" stop in the opposite
revealing the most beautiful landscapes direction (20 minutes—there is a train
between the Viamala Gorge, the Albula, every hour). The journey is included in
the Solis Viaduct, the famous the Swiss Travel Pass, and reservations
Landwasser Viaduct, Bergün, Preda... for this train are mandatory.
Before reaching the highest point of the Alternatively, you can take regional
circuit: Ospizio Bernina at an altitude of trains on the same route without a
2,253 meters. From there, it's a white reservation. If you have not opted for the
paradise! On a clear day, you can see Swiss Travel Pass, check the timetables
the Morteratsch Glacier (4,049 meters), and fares at rhb.ch.
Piz

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VAL ROSEG IN PONTRESINA

From the inn where we spent the night, we stopped in Pontresina before taking the
train back to Zurich (20 minutes). If, like us, you have luggage, there is a locker at the
station. We paid CHF 8 (cash only). We then set off to explore Val Roseg, one of the most
beautiful valleys in Switzerland, easily accessible on foot, by horse-drawn carriage, or by
bike (in summer). From Pontresina station, simply head to the Roseg stream and follow
the path to the Roseg Gletscher hotel, which offers incredible views of the Bernina massif.
On foot in winter, it takes about 3 hours round trip (13.4 kilometers), and is an easy hike.
Alternatively, you can do as we did and walk part of the way, which already offers
sublime scenery.

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Zurich's economic image. Among our

favorite streets are Predigergasse,
Augustinergasse, Glockengasse, Schipfe,
In Gassen, Strehlgasse, and
ROAD TRIP BY TRAIN Fraumünster. Finally, enjoy the different
views from the bridges connecting the
* ZURICH * left bank to the right bank:
Rathausbrücke and Münsterbrücke. At
the end of your visit to the old town, we
recommend taking a boat trip on Lake
Zurich. The ticket is included in the Swiss
Travel Pass. We enjoyed stopping at the
"Zürichhorn" stop and walking back
GETTING AROUND ZURICH along the quays, passing through
GOOD TO The city is both sprawling and human- Zürichhorn Park and the Le Corbusier
sized. If, like us, you plan to visit mainly
KNOW the historic center, it is very easy to get
Center.

GEOGRAPHICAL LOCATION around on foot, losing yourself in the

Located in northeastern Switzerland, narrow streets. You can also get around
Zurich borders the lake of the same by tram, boat, train, or funicular.
name and is surrounded by mountains.
The city is divided in two by the Limmat
River, which flows through the medieval PLACES TO
city. A true economic hub, many large
and small companies are based here in
VISIT
various sectors such as banking, THE OLD TOWN
industry, and commerce. In short, it is a Divided by the Limmat River, it is split
dynamic city on the doorstep of nature... between the left bank and the right bank.
There's no chance of getting bored! To get a first glimpse of Zurich, we
recommend the Lindenhof esplanade, a
historic square with a breathtaking view
of the river and the city. We then
abandoned our city map and wandered
from one square to another, from one
cobbled alley to another, discovering the
old town and its colorful houses dating
from the 14th and 15th centuries. On the
right bank, don't miss the Grossmünster
Cathedral (you can climb to the top). Its
unique charm contrasts with

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CHRISTMAS MARKETS
AND
ILLUMINATIONS
Of all the cities we visited in
Switzerland, I think Zurich's Christmas
markets and lights were the ones that
charmed us the most! We especially
loved the "Singing Tree," a choir that
performs every evening in the heart of
the city against a backdrop of
Christmas trees. The Christmas market
near the lake was our favorite, with its
bucolic atmosphere, fairy lights, and
old-fashioned carousel. Finally, don't
miss the "Lucy" lights, which refer to the
famous Beatles song
"Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds": it feels
like you're seeing little diamonds
floating all along Zurich's main
thoroughfare.

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Other places to visit in

Zurich
Where to stay?
- Kunsthaus Zürich 25HOURS Hotel Langstrasse
Museum of Modern Art A few minutes' walk from Zurich Central
- FIFA Museum Station in the Langstrasse district, this
- The Botanical Garden magnificent 4-star establishment was
- The Chinese Garden in Zurich designed by Zurich architect Alfredo
- The Swiss Chocolate Museum Haeberli. A trendy hotel with
Lindt comfortable rooms, a sauna with
breathtaking views of the city, and a
Places to visit in Zurich very nice bar and restaurant.

- Yalda
Gustav-Gull Platz 2 – restaurant/buffet
serving Oriental cuisine. $$
- Nooba
Europaallee 12 – Asian specialties, a
wonderful place! $$
- Zeughauskeller
Bahnhofstrasse 28a – restaurant
serving traditional specialties. $$

UETILBERG ZURICH WEST

The mountains, just outside Zurich! The industrial district has been
Located at an altitude of 870 meters, completely renovated! It's a part of the
you can get there by train in just 30 city that's relatively unknown to tourists
minutes from the main station. but very popular with locals. You can
It is a popular spot with locals for its discover independent shops, bars, and
exceptional views of the city, the lake, restaurants in the arches of the viaduct. You
and the Alps. Unfortunately for us, it can even walk along the viaduct, which
was very foggy, but we loved the reminded us a little of the High Line in
mystical atmosphere of the place. New York! To get there, take tram 11 or
13 and get off at the "Zürich Harbrücke"
stop.

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© Nos Curieux Voyageurs, 2022
www.noscurieuxvoyageurs.com
Photos: Maxime Vallée

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