Technical Sketch

Knits, No Waist Seam, Midi, 3/4 Circle, Stretch, No Seam, Center Back Seam, Elbow Puff
Sleeve, Set In Sleeves, Deep V Neck, Back Curved Seam with Invisible Zipper, Neckline Facing
Fabric yield: 3.29yd at 44–45” width fabric

Sewing Instructions
Sewing the Shoulders

- With right sides together, pin Front to Back at shoulders, then stitch. Finish the seam
allowances separately and press open.
Setting the Invisible Zipper

Note: Use special invisible zipper foot when stitching invisible zipper. Zipper can be trimmed
(remove the excess zipper length from the bottom, secure the new end of the zipper by stitching
over the zipper teeth using a bar tack).

- Open the zipper. From the wrong side, press the zipper coils flat so that the two rows of
stitching show.
- Open zipper, on outside, pin zipper to one of the opening edges, face down in seam allowance,
placing zipper tape flush with the upper edge of the fabric and zipper teeth on seamline.
- Stitch the open zipper tape close to the teeth, starting at the top of the edge and stitch until foot
meets the zipper pull. Backstitch at the beginning and the end.
- Close zipper. Pin remaining zipper tape to the other opening edge, placing zipper teeth on
seamline.
- Open zipper. Stitch close to teeth, until foot meets the zipper pull.
- Close zipper and pin Back sections together below zipper. Position and lower needle slightly
above (about 1/4" (6mm) up) and to the left of zipper stitching. Stitch remainder of Center Back
seam.
- Stitch or hand sew each end of zipper tape to seam allowances, keeping the garment free when
stitching.
Sewing Side Seams

- With right sides together, pin Front to Back at right side seam, then stitch.
- Stitch the left side seam, leaving an opening between zipper notches.
- Finish the seam allowances separately and press open.
Setting Side Seam Invisible Zipper

Note: Use special invisible zipper foot when stitching invisible zipper. Zipper can be trimmed
(remove the excess zipper length from the bottom, secure the new end of the zipper by stitching
over the zipper teeth using a bar tack).

- Pin the remainder of left side seam, then baste between zipper notches. Press open.
- Pin the closed zipper tape face down to seam allowances, placing zipper teeth on seamline,
aligning centers and matching notches. Baste.
- Undo the basting stitch that was keeping front and back side seams together.
- Open the zipper. Position left-hand groove of zipper foot over teeth and stitch close to teeth,
starting at the top of the edge and stitch up to the zipper notch. Backstitch at the beginning and
the end.
- Position right-hand groove of the zipper foot over teeth and stitch the zipper tape to the right
opening edge, starting at the top of the edge and stitch up to the zipper notch. Backstitch at the
beginning and the end.
- Undo the basting stitch. Press.
- Stitch or hand sew each end of zipper tape to seam allowances, keeping the garment free when
stitching.

Setting the Sleeves

- Place notches on the cap where you want the gathering to begin and end.
- Baste-stitch stitch at 1/2" (1.3 cm) between notches. Secure one end with a backstitch and
leave the other end with a long thread. Baste-stitch another line of stitching parallel to the first
(1/4" (6mm) away inside seam allowance), again securing one end with a backstitch and leaving
the other end with a long thread. Then pull threads and evenly distribute gathers.
- Stitch the underarm seams.
- Place sleeves into armholes, right sides together, pin, matching notches and the underarm
seam. Distribute gathers evenly between notches.
- Stitch the sleeve, starting at the underarm seam and taking the pins out as you sew. Stitch all
the way around, making sure that the shoulder, sleeve, and side seams are open and flat.
- Stitch again 1/4" (6mm) away inside the seam allowance. Serge the seam. Press seam towards
the bodice.
- Use 5/8" (1.5cm) narrow hem at lower edge: turn the hem in, then press. Ease in fullness if
necessary. Open out hem, turn in again so that raw edge is aligned along with the crease, then
press. Turn in along the crease and stitch.

Neckline without Facing

Mock Coverstitch (pic. 1)

OR

Zigzag Stitch (pic. 2)

- Turn up the hem along foldline. Zigzag stitch hemline around circumference of the garment
(pic. 1) or sew with a double-needle from the right side of the garment (pic. 2). Press.