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JAMES LOWEN &
CARLOS BOCOS
BIRDS OF
SPAIN
A PHOTOGRAPHIC GUIDE
SECOND EDITION
                                      HELM
                          Bloomsbury Publishing Plc
                  50 Bedford Square, London, WC1B 3DP, UK
                     29 Earlsfort Terrace, Dublin 2, Ireland
 James Lowen and Carlos Bocos have asserted their rights under the Copyright,
    Designs and Patents Act, 1988, to be identified as Authors of this work.
 Bloomsbury Publishing Plc does not have any control over, or responsibility for,
any third-party websites referred to or in this book. All internet addresses given in
  this book were correct at the time of going to press. The author and publisher
regret any inconvenience caused if addresses have changed or sites have ceased
         to exist, but can accept no responsibility for any such changes.
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
   To find out more about our authors and books visit www.bloomsbury.com
                        and sign up for our newsletters
                 CONTENTS
Introduction4
Natural Spain                             5
Birds and Bird Conservation in Spain      6
Good Birdwatching Sites in the Region     8
How to Use This Book                     21
Species Accounts                         22
Further Reading and Resources           219
Acknowledgements219
Photo Credits                           219
List of Species Names                   220
Index222
   4
                                       INTRODUCTION
Introduction
               Millions of British tourists visit Spain every year – more than any other country, in fact, and
               not far off the combined total of visitors to France and Germany. While the majority may
               prioritise their time on sun-drenched beaches, an ever-increasing proportion is exploring
               Spain’s wilder side – especially the birdlife of its remarkably varied countryside.
                  And for good reason. Spain is the second-largest country to lie wholly within Europe, so
               is much bigger than many visitors might appreciate. It boasts a hugely diverse landscape
               that contains many spectacular and important habitats for wildlife. It has snow-capped
               mountains that stretch more than 3km into the sky, where vultures soar around lofty peaks,
               and swathes of traditionally managed dehesa wooded pasture, beneath which Common
               Cranes gulp down acorns each winter. Despite the best (i.e. typically deleterious) efforts
               of agricultural intensification, extensive areas remain shrouded in semi-natural grasslands
               – the steppe-like home of bustards and sandgrouse. Not all agriculture is bad, of course:
               the expansion of rice cultivation has created new wetlands that sometimes harbour
               large numbers of wintering and migrant waterbirds. Then there are rocky deserts, a vast
               central plateau, rich and verdant wetland deltas, ancient oak forests, both Atlantic and
               Mediterranean coastlines, and the insular havens of the Balearics. And if that were not
               enough, Spain lies at the interface between Europe and Africa, funnelling avian migrants
               between the two continents. It is truly a land of avian plenty.
                  Moreover, Spain’s average human population density of 92 people per km2 places
               the country firmly in the more sparsely populated half of the European league table.
               The UK, by comparison, is roughly three times more densely populated. Furthermore,
               80 per cent of Spaniards live in urban areas – which leaves vast areas of uninhabited
               countryside to explore.
                  And wherever you explore in Spain, you should find birds – which is where this book
               comes in. Drawing on a rich font of digital photography, this guide illustrates and describes
               301 bird species that are most likely to be encountered on a visit to Spain, including the
               Balearic Islands (but excluding the far-flung archipelago of the Canary Islands).
                                                                                                    5
                        NATURAL SPAIN
                                                                                                 Natural Spain
The Iberian Peninsula – comprising Spain and Portugal – is isolated from the rest of Europe
by the great mountain range of the Pyrenees. The remainder of the landmass is fringed
either by the Mediterranean Basin or by the Atlantic Ocean. The coast is important in
Spain; only five European countries have a seaboard longer than its 5,000 or so kilometres.
Nor should Spain’s proximity to Africa be underestimated: at its closest point, it is
nearer to Morocco than England is to France. Where not overlain with concrete, Spain’s
Mediterranean coast holds impressive wetlands, jagged cliffs and vast sandy strands. The
Atlantic coast tends to be rockier, but is interspersed with estuaries and cosy coves.
   Much of inland Spain comprises a vast upland plateau known as the Meseta.
One-sixth of Spain lies above 1,000m and, across Europe, only Switzerland has a
higher average land height. The Meseta is split by the Sistema Central, a mountain
range that peaks just shy of 2,600m. Further north, the Cordillera Cantábrica attains
roughly the same altitude in the Picos de Europa. The 400km-long Pyrenees tower
above them all, however, reaching 3,400m. The zone above the treeline teems with
specialised wildlife, from arctic–alpine plants to hardy butterflies, evolutionarily
adapted mountaineering mammals, reptiles and amphibians, and exciting birds such
as Bearded Vulture, Wallcreeper and Alpine Accentor.
   As the Meseta tilts towards the south-west, four main rivers (the Duero, Guadalquivir,
Guadiana and Tajo) drain into the Atlantic, leaving only the Ebro to exit at the
Mediterranean. The Meseta is dotted with rocky gorges and standing waterbodies
(particularly reservoirs), which serve as oases for birds – especially ducks – in an otherwise
largely arid, agricultural domain. This is the home of Spain’s dwindling ‘pseudo-steppes’,
semi-natural grasslands where Eurasian Stone-curlews rub shoulders with bustards, while
various species of lark sing overhead in skies through which sandgrouse career.
   Among Spain’s natural wetlands are the famous river deltas of the Ebro and Guadalquivir
(the latter better known as the Coto Doñana). Reedbeds and marshes nudge lagoons and
riverine forests, creating a diversity of landscape packed with herons, rallids and warblers.
   Spain offers wooded habitats, too. Cantabrian slopes are cloaked in Sessile Oak
(Quercus petraea), Downy Birch (Betula pubescens) and Beech (Fagus sylvatica). The
Pyrenees are renowned for ancient forests of pines (Pinus spp.) and European Silver
Fir (Abies alba). Where these upland woodlands have been cleared for agriculture,
grassland has developed – notably hay meadows, in which butterflies and orchids thrive.
   Further south lies the dehesa, the wooded pasture dominated by Cork Oak (Quercus
suber) and Holm Oak (Q. ilex). This region is of huge significance for wildlife, with the
oaks’ umbrella-shaped canopy providing nesting sites for Cinereous Vulture, Spanish
Imperial Eagle, Great Spotted Cuckoo, Iberian Magpie and many more species of bird.
Finally, on particularly dry or unstable ground that is no longer suitable for agriculture,
secondary scrub communities (usually known as maquis or garrigue) have developed.
Warblers, shrikes and open-country specialists such as Hoopoe thrive here.
          6
                                                    BIRDS AND BIRD
                                                 CONSERVATION IN SPAIN
Birds and bird conservation in Spain
                                       Of more than 550 bird species recorded in Spain, roughly 350 occur regularly in
                                       mainland Spain and the Balearics, and more than 240 routinely breed. Many will be
                                       familiar to visitors coming from the British Isles. Excitingly, however, others that are
                                       at best rare in the UK and Ireland transpire to be common and widespread in Spain,
                                       including Black Redstart, Cirl Bunting and European Serin.
                                          You will soon notice other differences, too. Although climate change is pushing
                                       some of these species north into the UK, long-legged waterbirds such as egrets, herons
                                       and spoonbills are generally more frequently encountered in Spain. Bustards and
                                       sandgrouse roam the rolling, grassy plains, and there is a wider variety of woodpeckers
                                       in Spanish forests. In addition, there is a much broader diversity of birds of prey
                                       (including several eagles and vultures), and many more warblers and larks.
                                          Wildfowl and waders may feel pretty familiar, but less familiar are colourful,
                                       exotic-looking creatures such as Hoopoe, European Roller, European Bee-eater and
                                       Great Spotted Cuckoo. Gulls include unexpected interlopers, notably Audouin’s and
                                       Slender-billed. High-altitude zones offer special birds – including such evocatively
                                       named species as Alpine Chough and White-winged Snowfinch.
                                          According to current classifications by BirdLife International and the International Union
                                       for Conservation of Nature, 23 species occurring in Spain (here including the Canary
                                       Islands) are considered globally threatened (which means they face a very real chance
                                       of extinction), with 22 others (including Cinereous Vulture, Little Bustard and Woodchat
                                       Shrike) on the cusp of being so. Roughly half of these globally threatened species breed
                                       in Spain, which is consequently of particular importance for them. Balearic Shearwater
                                       breeds nowhere else in the world other than the Balearics. Should you wish to see globally
                                       threatened birds such as White-headed Duck, Spanish Imperial Eagle or Iberian Grey
                                       Shrike in Europe, your best bet is to visit Spain – so we indicate the status of such birds in
                                       the species accounts. Make no mistake, Spain is special.
                                          Despite such importance for birds, Spain has not always garnered positive press
                                       in conservation circles. However, things do seem to be changing. Interest in and
                                       awareness of environmental issues has widened in the country. This development has
                                       been reflected in the expansion of protected areas (and associated investment in their
                                       infrastructure) as well as the ever-growing membership of conservation organisations.
                                          Foremost among these is the BirdLife International partner in Spain, Sociedad
                                       Española de Ornitología (SEO/BirdLife; in English, the Spanish Ornithological Society).
                                       Founded in 1954, SEO/BirdLife works on the conservation of birds and their habitats,
                                       conducting scientific studies, disseminating knowledge and developing environmental
                                       initiatives. It engages in conserving particularly threatened bird species, identifies
                                       Important Bird and Biodiversity Areas (IBAs), manages internationally important
                                       locations, and advises the management boards of other reserves.
                                          Many of the IBAs benefit from protection under European Union biodiversity
legislation. Several have complementary national-level designations, of which the
four most prominent are, in descending order of protection level: Parque Nacional
                                                                                                                                                                        7
(National Park), Parque Natural (Natural Park), Paraje Natural (Natural Locality) and
                                        River Duero
                                        South-west of Zamora and north-west
                                        of Salamanca, the River Duero and
                                        tributaries flow through spectacular          Mediterranean Forest, Cerrato.
Villafáfila                                 area is well known for Griffon Vulture,
                                            but Golden Eagle and Eurasian Eagle-
                                                                                            11
Pseudo-steppes and large wetlands
provide good, year-round birding. The       owl also breed. The wooded areas are
                                                                                    Los Monegros
                                        ARAGÓN
                                                                                    A mosaic of pseudo-steppe and
                                        Anso and Hecho Valleys                      agricultural land lying mainly north of
                                        Spectacular Pyrenean valleys with cliffs,   the AP-2 motorway. Although similar to
                                        woodland and alpine pastures. A diverse     Belchite, Los Monegros also offers juniper
                                        raptor offering includes Bearded, Griffon   and pine forest plus seasonal lagoons.
                                        and Egyptian Vultures, and Short-toed       Little Bustard is more regular than at
                                        Snake Eagle. Gorges hold cliff-nesters      Belchite, and Lesser Kestrel has become
                                        including Eurasian Eagle-owl, Alpine        a prominent breeder. For Dupont’s Lark,
                                        Swift, Eurasian Crag Martin, Blue Rock      try north of Osera de Ebro. In winter,
                                        Thrush, Rock Sparrow and Rock Bunting.      lagoons south of Bujaraloz may hold
                                        Alpine and Red-billed Choughs are           wildfowl. Eurasian Dotterel passage
                                        common. Once expected at Boca del           peaks in September. Cliff faces may
produce Egyptian Vulture, Alpine Swift,       for Garganey, Little Crake, Spotted Crake,
                                              Whiskered Tern, Red-footed Falcon and,
                                                                                              13
Eurasian Crag Martin and Rock Sparrow.
                                              increasingly, Black-winged Kite.
                                        toed and even Dupont’s Larks. Other         Waterbirds are impressive, including
                                        open-country species include Great          Marbled Teal (resident) and White-headed
                                        Spotted Cuckoo, Red-necked Nightjar,        Duck (particularly in winter). Greater
                                        European Roller, Black Wheatear and         Spotted Eagle winters. In summer, enjoy
                                        Western Black-eared Wheatear. The           breeding herons, egrets and Little Bittern,
                                        reservoir may hold Purple Heron, Little     plus large colonies of Black-necked Grebe
                                        Bittern and Great Reed Warbler in spring    and Whiskered Tern.
                                        and summer.
                                                                                    Marjal de Pego-Oliva
                                        Llobregat Delta                             This coastal wetland lies north-west
                                        Conveniently located adjacent to            of Dénia. The main attraction is a
                                        Barcelona airport, this coastal wetland     substantial resident population of
                                        is shared between two reserves. Winter      Moustached Warbler. Purple Swamphen
                                        offers large numbers of Mediterranean       and Red-crested Pochard occur year-
                                        Gull, with Ferruginous Duck on the          round, and the lucky visitor may
                                        wetlands, and Balearic and Yelkouan         encounter Marbled Teal. Breeding birds
                                        Shearwaters offshore. Breeding species      include Little Bittern and Purple Heron,
                                        include Little Bittern, Black-crowned       while winter wildfowl are complemented
                                        Night Heron, Red-crested Pochard,           by Bluethroat and Eurasian Penduline Tit.
                                        Audouin’s Gull and Great Reed Warbler.
                                        Birding excels during spring and autumn     MADRID
                                        migration, when crakes, waders, gulls       La Pedriza
                                        and terns occur.                            Part of the Sierra de Guadarrama National
                                                                                    Park, La Pedriza offers good birding-cum-
                                        COMUNIDAD VALENCIANA                        hiking close to Madrid. Griffon Vulture
                                        Albufera de Valencia                        breeds. Cinereous Vulture, Spanish
                                        This coastal lagoon is complemented         Imperial Eagle and Golden Eagle may
                                                                                    appear overhead. European Crested Tit
                                        by marshes, reedbeds and rice fields – a
                                                                                    breeds in the pine forests. Iberian Magpie
                                        combination rendering it a haven for
                                                                                    inhabits the scrub. In spring and summer,
                                        birdlife. Large numbers of various herons
                                                                                    look also for Common Rock Thrush,
                                        and egrets breed, as does Red-crested
                                                                                    Western Black-eared Wheatear and Red-
                                        Pochard and the occasional Marbled
                                                                                    billed Chough. Further west, birds include
                                        Teal. Purple Swamphen and Red-knobbed
                                                                                    Alpine Accentor at high altitude, Citril
                                        Coot have been introduced. Audouin’s,
                                                                                    Finch beside upland forests, and breeding
                                        Slender-billed and Mediterranean Gulls
                                                                                    Cinereous Vulture.
                                        breed. Glossy Ibis and Moustached
                                        Warbler are resident. Thousands of Black-
                                        tailed Godwits occur among passage
                                                                                    CASTILLA–LA MANCHA
                                        waders. Wildfowl abound in winter, with     Navalcán
                                        Red-crested Pochard, Common Pochard,        Navalcán is a large reservoir surrounded
                                        Gadwall and Northern Pintail.               by scrub and dehesa, best visited in
winter: the north-western arm is typically     de Manjavacas, east of Pedro Muñoz.
productive. Common Crane congregates           Across the area there is a large breeding
                                                                                               15
in numbers. Cinereous and Griffon              population of Black-necked Grebe, plus
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