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Costa Rica 2010
BY ELIOT GREENSPAN

Wiley Publishing, Inc.

Published by:
WILEY PUBLISHING, INC.
111 River St.
Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774

Copyright © 2010 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this
publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means,
electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under
Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission
of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright
Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/750-8400, fax 978/646-8600.
Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Permissions Department, John
Wiley & Sons, Inc., 111 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030, 201/748-6011, fax 201/748-6008, or online at
http://www.wiley.com/go/permissions.

Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc.
and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under
license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not
associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book.

ISBN 978-0-470-48217-9

Editor: Jennifer Reilly

Production Editor: Heather Wilcox
Cartographer: Andrew Murphy
Photo Editor: Cherie Cincilla, Richard Fox
Design and layout by Vertigo Design NYC
Graphics and prepress by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services

Front cover photo: Costa Rica: The Red-eyed Tree Frog (Agalychnis callidryas) peering out from leaf
© Dieter Herrmann/Mauritius/PhotoLibrary
Back cover photos, left to right: White Faced Capuchin monkey in tree waiting to steal food © Travelib
Prime/Alamy Images; Tourists walking on suspension bridges in Monteverde Canopy, Monteverde, Santa
Elena, Costa Rica © Jan Csernoch/Alamy Images; Profile of a couple and a young man running on the
beach with surfboards © Masterfile; Resplendent Quetzal taking wild avocado to nest, San Gerardo de
Dota Cloud Forest, Costa Rica © Keith and Rebecca Snell/DanitaDelimont.com/Alamy Images

For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our
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not be available in electronic formats.

Manufactured in the United States of America

5 4 3 2 1
List of Maps vii

1 THE BEST OF COSTA RICA 1

The Best of Natural Costa Rica 2 The Best Moderately Priced Hotels
The Best Beaches 7 19
The Best Adventures 8 The Best Ecolodges & Wilderness
Resorts 20
The Best Day Hikes & Nature
Walks 11 The Best Bed & Breakfasts & Small
Inns 21
The Best Bird-Watching 13
The Best Restaurants 22
The Best Destinations for Families
15 The Best Views 24
The Best Luxury Hotels & Resorts The Best After-Dark Fun 25
17 The Best Websites About Costa
Rica 27

2 COSTA RICA IN DEPTH 28

Costa Rica Today 29 Costa Rica in Popular Culture:

Looking Back at Costa Rica 31 Books, Film & Music 39
Art & Architecture 34 TICO ETIQUETTE & CUSTOMS 41

The Lay of the Land 36 Eating & Drinking in Costa Rica 42

TIPS ON SHOPPING IN COSTA RICA 46

3 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO COSTA RICA 48

When to Go 48 Health 63
CALENDAR OF EVENTS 51 Safety 65
Entry Requirements 52 Specialized Travel Resources 66
Getting There & Getting Around Sustainable Tourism 68
54 SUSTAINABLE PROPERTIES IN
PLANNING A COSTA RICAN WEDDING 59 COSTA RICA 68
Money & Costs 61 RESOURCES FOR GREEN TRAVEL 70
THE VALUE OF THE COLON VS. OTHER Staying Connected 71
POPULAR CURRENCIES 61 Tips on Accommodations 73
WHAT THINGS COST IN COSTA RICA 62
4 SUGGESTED ITINERARIES 75

Costa Rica Regions in Brief 76 Costa Rica for Families 85

Costa Rica in 1 Week 80 A Week of Adventures in Costa
Costa Rica in 2 Weeks 83 Rica 88
San José & Environs in 3 Days 90

5 THE ACTIVE VACATION PLANNER 92

Organized Adventure Trips 93 Costa Rica’s Top National Parks &
Activities A to Z 95 Bioreserves 107
WHERE TO SEE THE RESPLENDENT Tips on Health, Safety & Etiquette
QUETZAL 98 in the Wilderness 111
IN SEARCH OF TURTLES 105 Volunteer & Study Programs 112
MONKEY BUSINESS 113

6 SAN JOSE 116

Orientation 117 What to See & Do 155
“I KNOW THERE’S GOT TO BE A NUMBER Outdoor Activities & Spectator
HERE SOMEWHERE . . . ” 120 Sports 163
Getting Around 123 Shopping 166
FAST FACTS: SAN JOSE 126 JOE TO GO 167
Where to Stay 129 San José After Dark 171
IT’S IN THE BEANS 136 Side Trips from San José 177
Where to Dine 147 HOLY SMOKE! CHOOSING THE VOLCANO
DINING UNDER THE STARS 150 TRIP THAT’S RIGHT FOR YOU 182
7 GUANACASTE: THE GOLD COAST 192

Liberia 194 Playas Flamingo, Potrero, Brasilito

La Cruz & Bahía Salinas 205 & Conchal 222
Playa Hermosa, Playa Panamá & Playa Tamarindo & Playa Grande
Papagayo 209 231
Playa del Coco & Playa Ocotal 216 Playa Junquillal 245

8 PUNTARENAS & THE NICOYA

PENINSULA 248
Puntarenas 249 Malpaís & Santa Teresa 268
DIVING TRIPS TO ISLA DEL COCO Playa Sámara 273
(COCOS ISLAND) 254 Playa Nosara 280
Playa Tambor 256
Playa Montezuma 260

9 THE NORTHERN ZONE: MOUNTAIN

LAKES, CLOUD FORESTS & A VOLCANO 287

Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí 288 Along the Shores of Lake Arenal

Arenal Volcano & La Fortuna 296 315
BOATS, HORSES & TAXIS 298 Monteverde 321
TAKING A SOOTHING SOAK IN HOT SPRINGS
302

10 THE CENTRAL PACIFIC COAST:

WHERE THE MOUNTAINS MEET THE SEA 338

Playa de Jacó, Playa Hermosa & Dominical 379

Playa Herradura 339 San Isidro de El General: A Base
Manuel Antonio National Park 359 for Exploring Chirripó National
Park 390
11 THE SOUTHERN ZONE 397
Drake Bay 398 Golfito: Gateway to the Golfo
THOSE MYSTERIOUS STONE SPHERES 404 Dulce 421
Puerto Jiménez: Gateway to Playa Zancudo 429
Corcovado National Park 409 Playa Pavones: A Surfer’s Mecca
433

12 THE CARIBBEAN COAST 436

Barra del Colorado 438 Cahuita 454

Tortuguero National Park 441 Puerto Viejo 463
Limón: Gateway to Tortuguero
National Park & Southern
Coastal Beaches 451

13 FAST FACTS: COSTA RICA 482

Airline, Hotel & Car-Rental
Websites 486

14 SPANISH TERMS & PHRASES 488

Basic Words & Phrases 489 Menu Terms 492
Some Typical Tico Words & Other Useful Terms 494
Phrases 491

15 COSTA RICAN WILDLIFE 495

Fauna 496 Flora 505

Index 508

Accommodations Index 514

LIST OF MAPS
The Best of Costa Rica 4

Costa Rica Regions in Brief 77

Costa Rica in 1 Week 81

Costa Rica in 2 Weeks 85

Costa Rica for Families 87

A Week of Adventures in Costa Rica 89

San José in 3 Days 91

San José Orientation 121

San José 130

The Central Valley 179

Guanacaste 195

Santa Rosa National Park 207

Tamarindo 233

The Nicoya Peninsula 251

Montezuma 265

The Northern Zone 289

Along the Shores of Lake Arenal 317

Monteverde 323

The Central Pacific Coast 341

Playa Jacó 349

Manuel Antonio & Quepos 371

The Southern Zone 399

Drake Bay 401

Puerto Jiménez 411

Corcovado National Park 413

The Caribbean Coast 439

Puerto Viejo 465

vii
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 ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Eliot Greenspan is a poet, journalist, musician, and travel
writer who took his backpack and typewriter the length
of Mesoamerica before settling in Costa Rica in 1992.
Since then, he has worked steadily as a travel writer,
freelance journalist, and translator, and continued his
travels in the region. He is the author of Frommer’s Belize,
Frommer’s Ecuador, Frommer’s Guatemala, Costa Rica For
Dummies, Costa Rica Day By Day, and The Tico Times
Restaurant Guide to Costa Rica, as well as the chapter on
Venezuela in Frommer’s South America.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
I say this every year, but I continue to be eternally grateful to Anne Becher and Joe
Richey, who were instrumental in getting me this gig—muchas gracias. I’d also like to
thank my parents, Marilyn and Warren Greenspan, who showed unwavering love,
support, and encouragement (well, one out of three ain’t bad) when I chose words and
world-wandering over becoming a lawyer or a doctor. Jody and Ted Ejnes (my sister and
brother-in-law) deserve a mention; they risked life and limb—literally—leading to two
important tips that may help you save yours. (I now believe Ted, and he may have
actually almost stepped on a crocodile.) Mayling Charpentier did some excellent phone,
fax, and fact-checking work on this edition. And a big tip of my hat to Jennifer Reilly for
her editorial diligence and patience.

viii
HOW TO CONTACT US
In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants,
shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can
share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were
disappointed with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s Costa Rica 2010
Wiley Publishing, Inc. * 111 River St. * Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774

AN ADDITIONAL NOTE
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is
especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for
confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot
be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is
important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your
surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of
thieves and pickpockets.

ix
 FROMMER’S STAR RATINGS, ICONS & ABBREVIATIONS
Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality,
value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state,
and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choic-
es and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero
(recommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and
regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star
(highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see).
In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature icons that point you
to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers
from tourists. Throughout the book, look for:

special finds—those places only insiders know about

fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun

kids—best bets for kids and advice for the whole family

special moments—those experiences that memories are made of

overrated—places or experiences not worth your time or money

insider tips—great ways to save time and money

great values—where to get the best deals

The following abbreviations are used for credit cards:

AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa

DC Diners Club MC MasterCard

TRAVEL RESOURCES AT FROMMERS.COM

Frommer’s travel resources don’t end with this guide. Frommers.com has travel informa-
tion on more than 4,000 destinations. We update features regularly, giving you access
to the most current trip-planning information and the best airfare, lodging, and
car-rental bargains. You can also listen to podcasts, connect with other Frommers.com
members through our active-reader forums, share your travel photos, read blogs from
guidebook editors and fellow travelers, and much more.

x
 1

THE BEST
OF COSTA
RICA
 1

F
irst coming to the attention of international travelers in
The Best of Natura Costa R ca

the mid-1990s, Costa Rica is currently—and consistently—

one of the hottest vacation and adventure-travel
destinations in Latin America, with over two million
visitors each year. Despite the boom in vacationers,
Costa Rica remains a place rich in natural wonders and biodiversity,
where you can still find yourself far from the maddening crowds. The
country boasts a wealth of unsullied beaches that stretch for miles,
small lodgings that haven’t attracted hordes of tourists, jungle rivers
for rafting and kayaking, and spectacular cloud- and rainforests with
THE BEST OF COSTA RICA

ample opportunities for bird-watching and hiking. In addition to the

country’s trademark eco- and adventure-tourism offerings, you will
also find luxury resorts and golf courses, plush spas, and some truly
spectacular boutique hotels and lodges.

Having lived in Costa Rica for more than 18 years, I continue to explore and
discover new spots, adventures, restaurants, and lodgings—and my “best of” ex-
periences keep on coming. In this chapter I’ve selected the very best of what this
unique country has to offer. These places and experiences are covered in greater
detail elsewhere in the book; this chapter is merely meant to give you an overview
of the highlights so that you can start planning your own adventure.

THE best OF NATURAL

COSTA RICA
W Rincón de la Vieja National Park (northeast of Liberia, in Guanacaste):
This is an area of rugged beauty and high volcanic activity. The Rincón de la
Vieja Volcano rises to 1,848m (6,061 ft.), but the thermal activity is spread out
along its flanks, where numerous geysers, vents, and fumaroles let off its heat
and steam. This is a great place to hire a guide and a horse for a day of rugged
exploration. There are waterfalls and mud baths, hot springs, and cool jungle
swimming holes. You’ll pass through pastureland, scrub savanna, and moist
secondary forest; the bird-watching is excellent. See p. 198
W The Río Sarapiquí Region (north of San José between Guanacaste in the
west and the Caribbean coast in the east): This region is a prime place for
an ecolodge experience. Protected tropical forests climb from the Caribbean
coastal lowlands up into the central mountains, affording you a glimpse of
a plethora of life zones and ecosystems. Braulio Carrillo National Park
borders several other private reserves here, and a variety of ecolodges will suit
any budget. See “Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí” in chapter 9.
PREVIOUS PAGE: Arenal Volcano.

2
 1

THE BEST OF COSTA RICA

The Best of Natura Costa R ca
Manuel Antonio National Park.

W Arenal Volcano/Tabacón Hot Springs (near La Fortuna, northwest of San

José): When the skies are clear and the lava is flowing, Arenal Volcano of-
fers a thrilling light show accompanied by an earthshaking rumble that de-
fies description. You can even see the
show while soaking in a natural hot spring
and having a drink at the swim-up bar at
Tabacón Grand Spa Thermal Resort
( 2519-1900; www.tabacon.com). If the
rushing torrent of volcano-heated spring
water isn’t therapeutic enough, you can
get an incredibly inexpensive massage
here. See “Arenal Volcano & La Fortuna”
in chapter 9.
W Monteverde Biological Cloud Forest
Reserve (in the mountains northwest of
San José): There’s something both eerie
and majestic about walking around in the
early morning mist surrounded by bird
calls and towering trees hung heavy in
broad bromeliads, flowering orchids, and
hanging moss and vines. The reserve has
a well-maintained network of trails, and
the community is truly involved in conser-
vation. Not only that, but in and around Monteverde Biological Cloud Forest
Monteverde and Santa Elena, you’ll find Reserve.

3
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