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.
opportunity of attending. So you can see that some of the Christiania
pastors have good cause to mourn their national hilarious Sunday.

Copyright by Underwood & Underwood, N. Y.

View from Hammerfest.

But to return to Hardanger. At the occasional country weddings in

Hardanger the bride’s costume would bear comparison with the
plumage of the bird of paradise. It is only in the depths of the
country that you can now see a real Norwegian wedding, for Norway
is becoming sadly internationalized in this respect, and plain white
for the bride and funereal black for the groom are fast supplanting
the old gay costumes. In Sætersdal you may stand a better chance
than in the Hardanger district of seeing a good, old-fashioned
country wedding.
A tough, spudding little pony draws a two-seated stolkjaerre, on
which is seated the bride in all her finery, and adorned for the
occasion in a magnificent crown of brass. Beside her sits the groom,
and on the step of the carriage the master of ceremonies, the
ancient fiddler. He must be ancient, white-haired, toothless, and a
bit doddering, or it is hardly a genuine wedding. All along the bridal
procession this doddering fiddler plies his bow at a tremendous rate,
and if you are some distance away it really sounds very well. All
Norway has for ages been devoted to the violin. It seems to me that
half the people in Norway must either play it or play at it; it is the
national instrument.
You will not find the full charm of seventeenth-century Norway
until you get up here in the Sætersdal. It is an interesting trip, too,
from Odda on the Hardanger Fjord overland by the Telemarken
route to Skien, the birthplace of the famous Henrik Ibsen, and from
there down to Christiansand, and up here through the Sætersdal to
Bredvik. Not far from Odda we pass a hotel in the Seljestad glen
where, as a certain guide book proudly points out, Mr. Gladstone,
Lady Brassey, and the rest of the party of The Sunbeam greatly
enjoyed the view in 1885. Certainly Mr. Gladstone and Lady Brassey
and the others were justified in their admiration, for there is no more
beautiful spot in all the Hardanger district. At the top of the pass
there is a mountain chalet called Haukeli Sæter, and here the snow
falls in such immense quantities that even in summer the road
passes through a tunnel dug through a snow drift.
Farther on, near Dalen, there is a precipice nine hundred feet high
called the Ravnegjuv, under which a wild, mad river tears along.
Whether this river is responsible I cannot say, but there is here a
strong draft, blowing upward and back over the precipice. Throw
over paper or leaves, or something equally light, and it will come
sailing back to you like a boomerang. It is also stoutly claimed that
the breeze is strong enough to blow back a hat, but I never heard of
anyone who wanted to risk it. It would be an interesting experiment,
and even if it failed the hat might not be a total loss; probably it
would fall into the torrent below and go whirling down toward the
Skager-Rack. The hatless experimenter could then hurry down to the
mouth of the stream by carriage and train and there lie in wait for
his wandering hat. This draft over the Ravnegjuv sinks into
insignificance compared with the draft which swirls against certain
parts of the Nærö dal in the Sogne district. Here the farmhouses are
surrounded by earthworks to protect them from the blasts of air
caused by avalanches descending on the other side of the valley.
Farther down the Telemark route from Ulefos there is a fine
excursion up the Saur River and the Nordsjö to Notodden and the
Rjukan Falls. This Saur River is erroneously called the “Norwegian
Rhine.” The Rhine should be called the “Swiss-German-Dutch Saur,”
for I maintain that Norway is the fatherland of natural scenery, and
the mere fact that the Rhine is situated within easy access of all
Europe does not justify the implication that it is the last word in river
scenery and that the Saur is rather a poor, second-rate, Norwegian
imitation of it.
Opposite Notodden there is a romantic mountain called
Helgenotra, from an old heroine named Helga Tveiten. As she was
walking over this mountain, she met a trold disguised as a
handsome cavalier. She allowed herself to be beguiled by him, and
together they strolled into a cave, which immediately closed behind
them, leaving the girl entombed in the mountain. However, the
ringing of church bells broke the spell; she was released from her
prison, and had nearly reached home when the bell rope broke. The
spell came back in full force, and she was dragged by magic back to
her mountain tomb, where she is to this day buried.
I may say, as the comforting guide book says of Bishop
Pontoppidan’s monstrous sea serpent with a back “an English mile
and a half in circumference,” that “there seems to be no doubt that
the whole thing is purely an illusion.”
However, there is a story connected with the Rjukan Falls, a little
farther on, which is perhaps a trifle less mythical. A maiden named
Mary had a lover named Eystein. On the face of the precipice over
which the Rjukan plunges was a narrow path called Mari-sti, or
“Mary’s Path.” Along this path Mary went to warn her lover of
danger, for enemies were plotting against his life. He fled for safety,
but returned after many years along the selfsame path to claim his
bride. In his haste he ran, and slipped and plunged down into the
foaming abyss of the Rjukan. The story runs that “for many years
after this a pale form, in whose eyes a quiet madness spoke,
wandered daily on the Mari-sti and seemed to talk with someone in
the abyss below. Thus she went, until a merciful voice summoned
her to joy and rest in the arms of her beloved.”
The Rjukan Falls are still wonderful to behold, and formerly vied
with Skjeggedalsfos for the honor of being the finest waterfall in
Norway, but electric plants and other industrial developments have
robbed it of any claim to true greatness, and the Mari-sti has
become a busy thoroughfare. Along the way between Notodden and
the Rjukan we meet many peasants in the ancient Telemark
costume, white stockings, green vests, and silver buttons being
predominant features. At Hitterdal, a village not far from Notodden,
there is an old stave-kirke, or stock church, dating from the
thirteenth century. There are very few of these ancient churches
now left in Norway, as fire has destroyed most of them. In the last
century and a half at least forty Norwegian churches have been
struck by lightning and destroyed, and of course lightning is only one
method out of many of setting fire to a church.
The finest example of a medieval stave-kirke is at Borgund in the
Valdres district. It is built of logs of timber and the roof is arranged
in several tiers like a pagoda. The walls are shingled with pieces of
wood cut into the shape of the scales of a fish, and the many
pinnacles and gables are surmounted by the most curious wooden
gargoyle dragons, pointing their tongues skyward.
Returning to Ulefos we are within a few miles of Skien. Skien is in
itself a dull, brick and stone town, devoted largely to the wood-pulp
industry, but its honor of being the birthplace of Norway’s greatest
literary genius is enough distinction for one town.
Here Henrik Ibsen was born on March 20, 1828. This great genius,
the first to raise Norwegian literature to a standard as high as
anything in all Europe, was strangely slow in discovering his talent.
For seven dreary years, “which set their mark upon his spirit,” he
was apprenticed to an apothecary in Grimstad. One of his
companions says of him during this period that he “walked about
Grimstad like a mystery sealed with seven seals.” He lived for awhile
a most precarious, hand-to-mouth existence as a Christiania
journalist. Then he became stage poet at the Bergen theater and
studied the drama at Copenhagen and at Dresden. He wrote some
poems, which began to earn for him a wide reputation. But soon his
Bergen theater failed; he applied for a poet’s pension at Christiania
and was refused, though one was at the same time granted to
Björnson. Sick and discouraged and fighting against poverty, and
above all burning with bitterest rage, he went to Berlin and Trieste
and then to Rome.
In this tempestuous mood he wrote at Rome a poem called Brand
in which he let himself go and poured out his bitterness against his
native land. Brand was a Norwegian priest who tried to live like
Christ and “was snubbed and hounded by his latitudinarian
companions.” It was a magnificent poem, and verily Norway must
have trembled at its ferocity, for in Brand’s “latitudinarian
companions” the poet had typified the current religious and moral
sentiment of his native land.
Soon he wrote the dramatic satire Peer Gynt, in which the hero
typified Ibsen’s conception of Norwegian egotism, vacillation, and
luke-warmness. He commenced this splendid work in all the fiery
anger with which he had written Brand, but in spite of himself he
soon forgot his anger and developed the great piece of literature
which critics say is as fine as anything produced in the nineteenth
century.
Four years later he did receive a poet’s pension, for his country
could not longer ignore his genius.
He had phenomenal success in many lines, but finally turned his
attention to simple conversational drama. He is one of the most
widely discussed dramatists of recent times. He fearlessly, almost
morbidly, braved convention, and was venomously attacked as an
immoral writer. Hjalmar Ekdal, the main character of one of his
plays, The Wild Duck, has earned the name of being the most
abominable villain in all the world’s drama. Certainly Ibsen revelled
in the sins and faults of society, but only, as he himself says, as a
diagnosist, and not, like Tolstoy, as a healer.
On his seventieth birthday the great dramatist was received with
the highest marks of honor by the native land which he had so
bitterly abused, and it must have been soothing to his fiery, cynical
nature to thus come into his own during the last days of his life.
Henrik Ibsen, and all Norwegian literature in general, should be of
especial interest to Americans, for it bears the same relation to
Danish literature that our own bears to English. It is only within the
last century that Norway has had any real, national literature. The
great Holberg, who lived in the seventeenth century, was really a
Norwegian, but he hardly thought of his own country as being a
fitting home for literature, and he devoted his talents to Denmark,
and is generally regarded as a Dane.
You will be ready now to make your way to Christiansand and
then up this most peaceful of dals to Brevik. On the way you will see
many country scenes, becoming more and more unconsciously
primitive and rustic as you leave the outside world behind. You will
see swarms of children along the way, or should I say “prides” or
“nides” of them? At any rate, there is no race suicide in rural
Norway. These children are now in the midst of their summer
holidays, which for many of them last nine months in the year.
Education is compulsory from the ages of seven to fourteen for
every child in Norway, but many of the farms, particularly in the
lonely Sætersdal, are so far apart that it would be impossible to
maintain any regular public-school system. Accordingly itinerant
schoolmasters must travel over the length and breadth of Norway,
imparting instruction to every child within the specified ages, for at
least twelve weeks in the year. Sometimes he must devote his twelve
weeks to a single child or a single family, and in this case he
becomes the farmer’s guest. Sometimes two or three neighboring
farmers combine and appoint one house as the common
schoolhouse and the home of the itinerant pedagog. The Norwegian
school-teacher’s life is thus one of pleasurable variety. Very often the
farmer’s grown-up daughter assists the teacher in his labors, and
many a tender passage occurs between them while the children are
studying and the fond, hoping mother peeks through the crack of
the door.
As I have said before, Sætersdal is the most charmingly peaceful
spot in all Norway. There is nothing strenuous about the scenery or
the life. Both continue as they have continued for ages and as they
will continue for ages to come, unless the ubiquitous railway finds its
way here. The cares of life for these peasants are reduced to a
minimum. No problems perplex them. Perhaps their simple minds
are hardly capable of being perplexed, but they live a calm, God-
fearing, happy life. While their fellow countrymen in the towns are
wrestling year in and year out with problems, they scarcely know
what the word means. Perhaps you think this is a deplorable mental
stagnation, but you would not and could not think so if you saw the
people. They are noble and generous and honest and good, and as
long as they possess these qualities they certainly do not need
problems. These fine Norwegian peasants have done as much as all
the fjords and mountains and waterfalls and valleys to fill me with
the charm of Norway.
I had intended to visit the “Sand Hills of Jutland” and to write to
you about them, but after all they are just what Hans Christian
Andersen called them, sand hills, and, charming as some parts of
Jutland doubtless are, I fear it would be an anticlimax to the varied
glories of Norway. Denmark would not have so much interest for a
lover of Norway were it not for the historical associations inseparably
linking the two countries together, so I base my strongest plea on
the land of the fjord. You have been very obliging, Judicia, in
performing these sudden chess-metamorphoses from your natural
queenliness to knighthood and castlehood and bishophood (I have
never reduced you to the rank of a pawn), as the nature of your
imaginary move might demand. However, I will refrain from further
compliments, lest you should think I am trying to bribe you.
Trusting that the charm of Norway will take possession of you as it
has of me, I await your Judicia-l decision.
Yours hopefully,
Aylmer.
 FOOTNOTES
[1] Honorable W. W. Thomas: Sweden and the Swedes.
[2] Emil Svensen: Sweden’s Place in History.
[3] Quoted by Honorable W. W. Thomas in Sweden and the
Swedes.
[4] Honorable W. W. Thomas: Sweden and the Swedes.
[5] Ernest Young: Finland.
 INDEX

Åbo, 123, 128, 129, 134, 139, 141

Castle of, 135
Marketing in, 137
Absalon, Bishop, 188, 189
Alexander II, 170
Alexius, Emperor, 282
Alfvesta, 4, 7
Almenningen, 217
Ambassador Long Legs, 103, 104
Amundsen, 263
Andersen, Hans Christian, 204, 207
Atterdag, Valdemar, 105, 210
Aurora Borealis, 59

Baltic, 129
Bellman, 118
Bennett, 266, 267
Bergen, 273, 276
Bernadotte, Prince, 68
Birchlegs, 281
Birger, Jarl, 70
Birgitta, 71, 98
Bishop Absalon, 188, 189
Bishop Henrik, 140
Bishop Ulphilas, 86
Björnsen, Björnstjerne, 291, 292
Bohus, 112
Bothnia, Gulf of, 130
Boyesen, Hjalmar, 238
Brahe, Ebba, 83, 84
Bremer, Frederika, 119
Bull, Ole, 275
Bye, Fru, 268

Canon Wieselgren, 29
Canute, 183
Cederstrom, 115
Charles XI, 16
Charles XII, 17, 69, 75, 78, 115
Christian II, 37, 38
Christian IV, 191
Christiania, 257
Holmenkollen, 258
Liquor Stores, 272
Winter Sports, 258
Christmas Day, 1520, 42
Codex Argenteus, 50, 87, 115
Copenhagen, 177
Frue Kirke, 190
 Grand Hotel, 185
Pillar of Shame, 195
Promenade, 192
Raadhus, 189
Taxameters, 184
Thorvaldsen Museum, 202
Tivoli, 196
Vesterbrogade, 186

Dal, 34
Dalecarlia, 20, 33, 34, 35, 40, 43
Dalen, 312
Djupvand, 290
Domaas, 295
Dovre, 296
Drottningholm, 82
Du Chaillu, 263

Edelfelt, 135
Elfsson, Sven, and wife, 41
Eric, XI, 124
Ericsson, John, 78

Finland,
Art, 157
Bathing Customs, 148
Bear Hunt, 161
“Church Boat,” 160
Coffee, 155
Coinage, 126, 155
 Education, 166
Four Estates in, 166
Lakes, 143
Railway Restaurants, 155
Russia’s Domination of, 126
Suffrage in, 164
Trains, 153
Wedding, 149
Fosterbrödralag, 101
Frederick VIII, 196
Frederiksborg, 208
Frey, 89

Geiranger Fjord, 286, 288

Gilchrist, Harold, 242
Glipping, Erik, 210
Gogstad Ship, 269
Gorm, 183
Göta, Canal, 94, 96, 100
Gothenburg, 93, 97, 100
Goths and Vandals, 8
Gotland, 8, 102, 108, 110
Grieg, 275
Gudbrandsdal, 290
Gulf of Bothnia, 130
Gustavus Adolphus, 69, 73, 75, 83, 86, 98
Gustavus Vasa, 37, 40, 42, 44, 50, 73, 75, 88, 90, 97, 98, 140
Gyda, 240, 241

Haakon Haakonsson, 283

Haakon, King, 245, 247
Haakon Sverresson, 283
Haakon VII, 260, 309
Halfdan the Swarthy, 221
Hamlet, 211, 212
Hammerfest, 304, 305
Hangö, 134
Hanseatic House, 277
Haparanda, 154
Harald Bluetooth, 182, 183
Harald Fairhair, 221, 240, 244
Harald Hardruler, 264
Hardanger, 289, 307, 308, 309
Hasting, 239, 249
Helsingfors, 128, 134, 150, 163, 168, 169
Henrik, Bishop, 140
Hönefos, 273
Hornvik Bay, 305
Hospitset, 253, 254

Ibsen, 311, 315, 317

Iron Mines, 60
Isala, 41

Jarl Birger, 70
Jungfrutornet, 106
Jutland, 319

Kalevala, 145, 149, 172

Katherine, Queen, 140
Kattegat, 201
Kiruna, 46, 56, 59, 60, 61
Kjöge, 181

Lapland, 46, 50
Lapps, 66
Larsson, Carl, 116
Leijonhufvred, Ebba, 97
Lemmings, 298
Lind, Jenny, 121
Linnæus, 29, 76, 88
Littlegirl, Eystein, 281
Lödingen, 230
Loen, 299
Lofotens, 218, 226
Longfellow, Henry W., 118, 145
Louis XIV, 16
Luleå, 62, 107, 154, 237
Luther, 73

Maelström, 225
Magnus, 70
Magnus Barefoot, 242
Majstang, 107
Månsdotter, Karin, 140
Marok, 289
Matthias, Bishop, 38
Molde, 290, 291, 293
Mounds of Odin, Thor and Frey, 89
Müller, Max, 172

Narvik, 61, 62
Hotel, 235
Iron, 231
Shops, 234
Temperature, 220
Nillson, Christine, 121
Nobel, 121
Norrland, 9
North Cape, 305
Notodden, 313

Odda, 311
Odense, 204
Odin, 89, 245
Olaf, St., 71, 224, 252, 264
Oscar, King, 15
Oslo, 264
Oxenstjerna, Axel, 74

Peasants’ Independence, 10
Plowpenny, Erik, 210
Polcirkeln, 54
Prince Bernadotte, 68

Rabbing, Lindom, 39
Riksgränsen, 7
Rime, 51, 66
Rjukan Falls, 314
Romsdalshorn, 293
Roskilde, 182
Rügen, 2
Runeberg, 172
Russia, 125
Domination of Finland, 126

Sætersdal, 285, 303, 308

Sampo, 132
Sassnitz, 2
Scandinavia, 8
Sigtuna, 82
Skager-Rack, 201
Skansen, 53
Skokloster, 82, 114
Smith, Harald, 262
Sognefjord, 288, 300, 301
Steyper, Peter, 283
St. Nicholas, Church of, 171
St. Nikolaus, 110
Stockholm, 13, 23, 33, 38, 69, 81, 107
“Automatic City,” The, 23
“Blood Path,” 38
Great Lift, 18
Stoddard, John L., 266, 306
Suffrage, 164
Suomi, 143
Svealand, 9
Sverresborg, 280
Sweden,
Art, 114
Church Life, 21
Farm Statistics, 25
Fires and Insurance, 30
Honesty, 95
Independence Day, 36
Lakes, 92, 96
Language, 49
Lavishness, 6
Parliament, 18
Politeness, 89
Railway Restaurant, 4
 Sleeping Cars and Fares, 7
Smörgåsbord, 1, 5, 94
Stoves, 27
Temperance in, 28
Tips, 49
Trains, 46, 49
Unified Cattle, 25
Swedenborg, 72, 88
Sweyn Forkbeard, 183

Tammerfors, 153, 156

Cathedral, 157
The “Manchester” of Finland, 157
Taylor, Bayard, 56, 59
Tegnér, 118
Thangbrand, 222
Thirteen Nations, 85
Thirty Years’ War, 74, 83, 98, 115
Thomas, Hon. W. W., 10, 31, 47, 119
Thor, 89
Thorvaldsen, Bertel, 202, 203
Thyra, 209
Torg’s Hat, 218, 219
Trelleborg, 2, 7
Trollhätten, 99
Trondhjem, 214, 215, 217, 237
Cathedral, 250
Tryggvesson, Olaf, 209, 221, 223, 238, 243, 254
Uleå, 151
Ulphilas, Bishop, 86
Upsala, 50, 84, 103
Cathedral, 88, 139
Gamla Upsala, 88
University of, 85

Valdemar, 180
Vanniman, 307
Venern, Lake, 96
Vettern, Lake, 97
Viborg, 134
Visby, 102, 108, 110
Von Heidenstam, 96, 116
Voss, 273
Vreta Klostenkyrka, 97

Wainemann, Paul, 147

Warnemünde, 178, 181
Wellamo, 131, 132
Wellman, 307
Wieselgren, Canon, 29

Young, Ernest, 125, 138, 167

 Transcriber’s Note
The following probable printing errors were corrected:

Page
xi“Alymer” changed to “Aylmer”
44 duplicate word “of” removed from “the George Washington of Sweden”
61 duplicate word “miles” removed from “one hundred miles farther”
72 “abby” changed to “abbey”
76 “more that double” changed to “more than double”
121 “every crossed the ocean” changed to “ever crossed the ocean”
162 “you, and Alymer, too” changed to “you, and Aylmer, too”
178 “Copengahen” changed to “Copenhagen”
193 “concete” changed to “concrete”
195 “geat lovers” changed to “great lovers”
202 “Bertel Thorvalsden” changed to “Bertel Thorvaldsen”
212 “Encyclopædia Brittanica” changed to “Encyclopædia Britannica”
237 “Ostersundand” changed to “Ostersund and”
240 “tryant” changed to “tyrant”
289 “Norangsdal” changed to “Norangdal” (both spellings do seem to be
valid, but the inconsistency on the same page was jarring)
312 “Skagger-Rack” changed to “Skager-Rack”

Accents have been standardised, and punctuation amended where needed without
further note. Authorial errors and inconsistencies have been left as is.
*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CHARM OF
SCANDINAVIA ***

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