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Word Of Mouse

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.
Cut oranges in halves, squeeze the juice through a sieve; cut the
peel off very thin, and steep it a night in water, and the next day boil
it till tender in the same water. Then cut the peel in strips and put
them with the juice, in an earthen pan, with an equal weight of lump
sugar, set it high over a moderate fire or stove, till the chips candy,
stirring frequently; then spread them out in a cool room for a
fortnight, to dry.

Orange Marmalade.

Get the clearest Seville oranges you can; cut them in 2, scoop out all
the pulp and juice into a basin, and pick out the seeds and skins.
Boil the rinds in spring water, changing that two or three times, to
take off their bitterness: if for smooth marmalade, heat the rinds in a
marble mortar, if for thick marmalade cut the rinds in thin pieces,
add it to the juice and pulp, put it all into a preserving-pan, with
double the weight of lump sugar, boil it over a fire, rather more than
half an hour. Put it into pots, cover with brandy papers, and tie down
close.—Or: put 6 Seville oranges into a scale, and weigh their
weight, and half their weight again, of lump sugar: to every lb. of
fruit measure a wine-pint of cold spring water. Cut the fruit in
quarters, remove the pips, and throw them into the water; then cut
the oranges in slices on plates, so as not to lose any part of the juice
or pulp, then take the pips out of the water, put all the fruit, juice,
and sugar in, and boil it gently an hour, or until it is sufficiently
consistent. Put by in pots. Both these are good receipts.

Oranges to Preserve.

Cut a hole at the stalk end, and scoop out the pulp, tie each one in
muslin, and lay them in cold spring water, to cover them, for two
days, changing the water twice a day; then boil them in the last
water, till tender. Take the oranges out of the liquor and allow 2 lbs.
of the best lump sugar, and 1 pint of water, to every lb. of fruit, and
put it into the liquor; boil and scum till it is a clear syrup, let it cool,
then put in the oranges, and boil them gently half an hour. Boil the
syrup every day, for a week, or till it looks clear.—Or: grate the
oranges, put them in water, change it twice a day, then boil gently,
till tender, and put them in cold water again, for two or three hours.
Cut a small piece off the top, take out the seeds, and to every
orange allow ½ lb. of lump sugar, strew it over them in a preserving-
pan, without any water, and set that over a gentle fire, turning the
oranges occasionally: when clear, lift them out, put them into little
pots, boil up the syrup, and pour it hot over the oranges. If the
oranges do not look clear, boil them half an hour, for two or three
days: then boil the syrup by itself, or make a fresh one thus: pare
and core some green apples, and boil them to make the water taste
strong; do not stir the apples, only put them down, with the back of
a spoon; strain the water till quite clear, and to every pint put 1 lb.
double refined sugar, and the juice of a lemon strained, boil it to a
strong jelly, drain the oranges out of the syrup, each one in a jar the
size of an orange, the hole upwards, and pour the jelly over. Cover
with brandy papers, and bladders. Do lemons the same way.—Or:
pare the oranges, tie them separately in cloths, boil them in water
till tender, that a straw may pass through them: cut a hole in the
stalk end, take out the seeds, but not the pulp. Make a syrup of
sweet oranges, lemons, and sugar, and when clear, put in the
oranges.

Apricots, Peaches, Magnum Bonum Plums, and Greengages.

Pare and stone the finest fruit, not over ripe, and weigh rather more
than their weight of lump sugar. Spread the fruit in a dish, the split
part upwards, strew the sugar over, and let them stand all night.
Break the stones, blanch the kernels, and simmer the whole gently,
till the fruit looks transparent: scum well, lift the fruit out carefully
into pots, pour the syrup over, and, when quite cold, cover close.
 To Preserve Green Apricots.

Spread vine or apricot leaves at the bottom of the pan, then fruit,
then leaves, till the pan be full, but the upper layer thick of leaves,
fill up with water, and cover quite close, to keep the steam in. Keep
the pan at such a distance from the fire, that in four or five hours,
the fruit may be soft, not cracked. Make a thin syrup of sugar and
some of the water, and drain the fruit; when both are cold, put the
fruit and syrup back into the pan, no leaves, and keep it over the fire
till the apricots are green, but they must not boil or crack; repeat
this for two or three days: then pour off as much of the syrup as you
think necessary, and boil it with more sugar and some sliced ginger
to make a rich syrup; when this is cold, drain the apricots, and pour
it over them. What there is left of the thin syrup will be useful to
sweeten fruit tarts.

Orlean Plums.

An equal quantity of sugar and of plums. The fruit gathered before it

is quite ripe. Put it into a pan with cold water, simmer it till the skins
appear to crack, so that you may peel them off. Have ready, a thin
clear syrup made of 1 lb. sugar, and a gill of water, put in the plums,
give them a gentle boil, and put them by in a basin, till the next day;
if they then appear done enough, drain them from the syrup, if not,
boil again, and remain till the following day; then drain them, add
the remainder of the sugar to the syrup, boil it till rich, and quite
clear; put the plums into jars, pour the syrup over, leave them open
till the next day, then put brandy papers over, and over them run
mutton suet.

Jargonelle Pears.
Pare smoothly and thinly, some large, well shaped pears. Simmer in
a thin syrup, and let them lie two days. Then pour off the syrup, add
more sugar: simmer and scum it; then put the pears in, simmer till
they look transparent, lift them out into pots, pour the syrup over,
and tie closely. Rather more than the weight of fruit in sugar. A grain
of pounded cochineal may be put in the syrup; lemon juice is an
improvement.

Quinces.

Pare the quinces very thin, and put them into a stew-pan; cover with
their parings, and fill the saucepan with hard water, set it over a
slow fire, and keep the lid close that the steam may not escape;
when the fruit is tender take it out, and put to it 1 quart of water,
2½ lbs. lump sugar, to make a clear syrup: put in the quinces, boil
them ten or twelve minutes, and set them by, for four or five hours;
then boil again five or six minutes, take them off the fire, and set
them by two days: boil again, ten minutes, with the juice of 2
lemons. Let the quinces be quite cold, put them into broad pans,
singly, and pour the syrup over. Cover with brandy papers, and skins
over the whole.—Or: cut them in quarters, and to 5 lbs. fruit, put 3
lbs. sugar, and ½ pint water; lay a piece of white paper over, to
keep in the steam, and let them simmer gently, three hours.

Fruit pastes are made by boiling the fruit with clarified sugar to a
thick marmalade; moulded into thin cakes, and dried in a stove.

To Candy Fruit.

Put fruit, finished in syrup, in a layer, in a new sieve, and dip it

quickly into hot water; spread it on a napkin before the fire to drain,
and do more in the sieve; sift double refined sugar over the fruit, till
white all over. Spread it on the shallow ends of sieves to dry in a
warm oven, turning it two or three times. Do not let it get cold
before it is dry. Watch it carefully.

Almacks.

1 lb. each of baking pears, apples, apricots, and plums; slice the two
first, and open the others, put them, in alternate layers, in an
earthen jar, in a slow oven. When the fruit is soft, squeeze it through
a cullender, put to it 1 lb. lump sugar, and simmer gently, stirring all
the while, till it leaves the pan clear, then put it in small moulds, or
drop it in little cakes; when cold, put them by.

Peaches, Apricots, and Plums in Brandy.

Gather peaches before they are quite ripe, prick them with a needle,
and rub off the down with a piece of flannel. Pass a quill carefully
round the stone to loosen it. Put them into a large preserving-pan,
with cold water, rather more than enough to cover them, and let it
gradually become scalding hot. If the water does more than simmer
very gently, or the fire be fierce, the fruit may crack. When tender,
lift them carefully out, and fold them in flannel, or a soft table cloth,
in several folds. Have ready a quart, or more, as the peaches
require, of the best brandy, and dissolve in it 10 oz. of powdered
sugar. When cool, put them into a glass jar, and pour the brandy and
sugar over. Cover with leather, or a bladder.

Cherries in Brandy.

Gather morella cherries on a dry day, when quite ripe; cut off half
the stalk, and put them into wide mouthed bottles, strewing layers
of finely pounded sugar between. Allow to each bottle half the
weight of the fruit in sugar. When the fruit reaches the neck of the
bottle, fill up with brandy; cork and rosin it tight.

Grapes in Brandy.

Put some close bunches, of any sort, into a jar (having pricked each
grape), strew a good quantity of pounded sugar candy over them,
and fill up the jar with brandy. Tie a bladder over, and keep in a cool
place.

Barberries for Tartlets.

Pick barberries without stones, from their stalks, and put them into a
stone jar, in a kettle of water, or on a hot hearth, and simmer very
slowly till the fruit is soft: then put it into a pan with ¾ lb. lump
sugar to 1 lb. barberries, and boil slowly for fifteen minutes. Use no
metal but silver.

Barberries in Bunches.

Tie the stalks of the fruit on little flat pieces of wood, 3 inches long,
a ¼ inch wide. Simmer these in syrup two successive days, and
when cold, cover them with the syrup. On the third day candy them.
(See to candy fruit.)
 C H A P T E R X X I V.

PICKLES.

The great art of pickling consists in using good vinegar, and in

selecting the various articles, at the proper seasons.—Pickles are
indigestible, but their liquor is good to give relish to cold meat,
therefore the strongest vinegar should be used, because a less
quantity will suffice. They should be kept in a dry place, and glass
jars are best, because then it is easy to perceive whether the
vinegar diminishes, and if it does, more should be boiled with spice,
and poured over the pickles. Fill the jars 3 parts full with the pickles,
but always let there be 3 inches above their surface of vinegar. If
earthenware jars are used, let them be unglazed; and vinegar
should always be boiled in unglazed earthenware; indeed, it ought
never to boil at all, but be just scalding hot, for boiling causes much
of the strength to evaporate. Keep the bottles closely stopped, with
bungs, and a bladder, wetted in the pickle. When you have opened a
bottle, cork it again, put a fresh bladder over, if you wish the pickles
to keep. When the pickles are all used, the vinegar should be boiled
up with a little more spice, and bottled when cold. The colour of
pickles is a matter of no small difficulty, though of the greatest
consequence, when used by way of ornament. A fine colour is
sometimes preserved by keeping pickles a long time in scalding hot
vinegar, the vessel being covered. When a bottle of capers or pickles
is opened, it should be kept filled, by fresh boiled vinegar.

Artichokes are in season in July and August.

Cauliflowers, in July and August.

Capsicum pods, end of July and beginning of August.

Cucumbers, the end of July to the end of August.

French beans, July.

Mushrooms, September.

Nasturtium pods, middle of July.

Onions from the middle to the end of July.

Radish pods, July.

Red cabbage, August.

Samphire, August.

Tomatas, the end of July to the end of August.

Walnuts.

Make a strong brine of salt and water, about ¼ lb. salt to a quart of
water, and steep the walnuts in it a week, previously pricking them
with a large needle; then put them, with the brine, into a stew-pan,
gently simmer them, pour off the liquor, lay the walnuts on a sieve
to drain in the air two days, to turn them black. Have ready made a
pickle of strong vinegar; add to each quart 1 oz. ginger, 1 oz. strong
pepper, 1 oz. eschalots, 1 oz. salt, ½ oz. allspice, and ½ a drachm
of cayenne (some persons add garlic, brown mustard-seed, bay
leaves, cloves, mace, chopped chilies, and horse-radish); put all into
a stone jar, tie over a bladder wetted with vinegar, and over that a
leather; keep it close by the side of the fire two days and nights;
shake it frequently. Put the walnuts into jars, and pour the pickle hot
over them; when cold, put in bungs, and tie wetted bladder over.

Walnuts, Green.

The best time is while the shells are still tender, and before they are
quite ripe. Lay them in a strong brine of salt and water for ten days,
changing the brine twice during that time; put in a thin board to
float over, that the air may not get to them and turn them black;
then pour the brine from the walnuts, and run a large needle several
times through each one; lay some vine leaves at the bottom of an
earthen pan, put in the walnuts, and cover with more leaves, fill up
the vessel with water, and put it on the fire till scalding hot; then
pour off the water, put fresh in, let that become hot, pour it off, and
repeat this once again; scrape off the husks, rub the walnuts smooth
with flannel, and throw them into a vessel of hot water. Boil, three
minutes, a quart of vinegar for every 50 walnuts, with white pepper,
salt, ginger, cloves, and cayenne (in the proportion of the last
receipt), and after rubbing the walnuts, dry them out of the water,
and pour the vinegar over them.

Gherkins.

The best are about 4 inches long, and 1 inch in diameter. Put them
into unglazed jars, or open pans, and pour salt and water over (¼
lb. salt to a quart of water), cover, and set them by the side, when
not convenient for them to stand before the fire; in two or three
days they will be yellow; pour off the water, and cover them with
scalding hot vinegar: set them again before the fire, and keep them
of an equal heat, if possible, for ten days, and they will become
green; then pour off the vinegar, and have ready to pour over the
gherkins (in jars), the same pickle as that for walnuts, leaving out
the eschalots if you choose. The vinegar poured from the gherkins
should be bottled, for it will be good cucumber vinegar.

Onions.

Take off the tops and coats of small round silver button onions, the
size of a nutmeg, and put them into a stew-pan three parts full of
boiling water; put no more at once than just enough to cover the
top of the water. As soon as the onions look transparent, take them
up in a sieve, lay them on a folded cloth, whilst you scald the
remainder. Make them quite dry with these cloths, then fill the jars
three parts full, and pour over them the following pickle, quite hot:
to a quart of strong vinegar put 1 oz. allspice, 1 oz. ginger, 1 oz.
mace, 1 oz. scraped horse-radish, 1 oz. black pepper, and 1 oz. salt;
infuse it by the fire three or four days; when the pickle and the
onions are cold, bung the jars, and cover them, first with bladder
wetted in vinegar, then with leather.—Or: put the onions into salt
and water, change that every day for three days, then put them in a
stew-pan with cold milk and water, let that stand over a fire till near
to a boil, take out the onions, dry, and put them into jars, and pour
a pickle over of good vinegar, salt, mace, and pepper, boiled and
become cold.

Cucumbers and Onions.

Boil in 3 pints of vinegar ¼ lb. flour of mustard, mixed as for table

use; let it get cold; slice 12 large cucumbers, and ½ gallon large
onions; put them into jars with 2 oz. ginger, ½ oz. white pepper, and
a small quantity of mace and cloves, and pour the vinegar, cold, over
them.

Red Cabbage.
Cut out the stalk, and divide a firm, dark coloured middling sized
cabbage, then cut in slices the breadth of straws; sprinkle salt over,
and let it lie two days; then drain the slices very dry; fill the jar, 3
parts full, and pour a hot pickle over them, of strong vinegar, heated
with black pepper, ginger, and allspice. Cover the jar to keep the
steam in, and when the pickle is cold, put in bungs, and tie bladders
over.

Melon Mangoes.

Cut a small square piece out of one side, and take out the seeds; fill
them with brown mustard seeds, garlic, eschalot, scraped horse-
radish, ripe capsicums, and a little finely pounded ginger: stuff the
melons as full as the space will allow, replace the square piece, and
bind them up tightly with thread. Boil a gallon of white wine vinegar,
with ¼ oz. mace, ¼ oz. cloves, ½ oz. ginger, ½ oz. black and long
pepper, and ½ oz. cayenne; as it is coming to a boil, pour in a wine-
glassful of essence of horse-radish, and of garlic vinegar.

Beet Root.

Boil them very gently from an hour and a half to two hours, or till 3
parts done; take them out of the water to cool; peel and cut them in
slices about half an inch thick. Prepare a pickle of good vinegar, and
to each quart 1 oz. black pepper, ½ oz. salt, ½ oz. horse-radish, ½
oz. ginger, and a little cayenne; infuse these by the fire three days,
and let the pickle be cold before you pour it over the beet-root.

Mushrooms.
Take the red inside out of the large ones, and rub both large and
small, with a piece of flannel and salt; put them into a stew-pan,
with a little mace and pepper, and strew salt over; keep them over a
slow fire, till the liquor which will be drawn, dries up again; shake
the stew-pan often; then pour over as much vinegar as will cover
them, let it become hot, but not boil, and put all into a jar.—Or: boil
buttons in milk and water till rather tender, put them into a cullender,
and pump cold water on them till they are cold; put them into salt
and water, for twenty-four hours, then dry them in a cloth. Make a
pickle of distilled vinegar, mace, and ginger, if to be white, if not,
white wine vinegar. It must be cold before you pour it over the
pickle.

India Pickle.

Put into a jar a gallon of white wine vinegar, 1 lb. sliced ginger, ½
oz. turmeric bruised, ½ lb. flour of mustard, ½ lb. salt, 1 oz. long
pepper, bruised; peel ½ lb. garlic, lay it on a sieve, sprinkle it with
salt, let it stand in the sun, or before the fire, three days to dry, then
put it into the vinegar. Place the jar by the side of the fire, cover
close, and let it remain three days, shake it every day, and it will be
ready to receive the vegetables.—Or: boil in a gallon of vinegar, ten
minutes, 2 oz. black and white peppercorns, 2 oz. flour of mustard,
2 oz. turmeric, and 2 oz. ginger, 1 oz. of the best cayenne, and a
good quantity of young horse-radish: (you may add ½ oz. more
turmeric, and 2 oz. white mustard seed), add curry powder and
eschalots.—Or: to a gallon of the strongest vinegar allow 3 oz. curry
powder, the same of flour of mustard, rub these together with ½
pint of olive oil, 3 oz. ginger bruised, 1 oz. turmeric, and ½ lb. of
eschalots, and 2 oz. garlic (both these sliced and slightly baked in
the Dutch oven), ¼ lb. salt, and 2 drachms cayenne; put it all into a
jar, cover with bladder wetted in the vinegar, and keep it by the side
of the fire three days, shake it several times during each day, and it
will be ready to receive the vegetables. Great care is required, to
prepare the vegetables; they should be gathered, as they come in
season, on a dry day. Parboil in salt and water strong enough to
bear an egg, then drain and spread them in the sun, before the fire,
or on a stove, to dry; this will occupy two days; then put them into
the pickle. The vegetables are, large cucumbers sliced, gherkins,
large onions sliced, small onions, cauliflowers, and brocoli in
branches, celery, French beans, nasturtiums, capsicums, white turnip
radishes, coddling apples, siberian crabs, green peaches, a large
carrot in slices, nicked round the edges, and a white cabbage cut up;
neither red cabbage nor walnuts. Small green melons are good; cut
a slit to take out the seeds, parboil the melons in salt and water,
drain and dry, then fill them with mustard seed, and 2 or 3 cloves,
tie round, and put them into the pickle.—Some persons boil it up
after the vegetables are in. These receipts are all good.

Lemons.

Cut them across, about half way through, and put 1½ tea-spoonful
of salt into each one, let them lie in a deep dish five or six days; to
each lemon add 1½ nutmeg, grated, 1 table-spoonful of black
mustard seed, and a little mace; boil till tender, in vinegar to cover
them, then put them by. Keep the jar filled with vinegar.—Or: cut the
lemons in 4 parts, but not through, fill with fine salt, put them in
layers in a jar, and sprinkle fine salt over each layer. Examine and
turn them, every five or six days, and in six weeks they will be ready.
If dry, add lemon juice to them.—Or: grate the rind of 8 lemons, rub
well with salt, and turn them every day for a week: put them into a
jar with 2 oz. race ginger, a large stick of horse-radish sliced, 2 tea-
spoonsful flour of mustard, 3 of cayenne, 1 oz. turmeric, and vinegar
enough to cover them. Put more vinegar if required.

Cauliflower and brocoli before they are quite ripe, may be picked in
neat branches, and pickled, the same way as gherkins; also French
beans, nasturtiums and radish pods, in the same way.
 C H A P T E R X X V.

VINEGARS.

Vinegar is seldom made at home, and as the best is made from wine
only, it is scarcely worth the trouble, for, for every purpose, the best
vinegar is the cheapest.

Gooseberry Vinegar.

To every quart of bruised ripe gooseberries, put 3 quarts of spring

water, stir well, and steep them eight and forty hours; then strain
into a barrel, and to every gallon of liquor, put 2 lbs. white pounded
sugar, and a toast soaked in yeast. Put it in the sun in summer, and
by the fire in winter, for six months, without stopping the bung hole,
but keep it always covered with a plate. White currants, stripped, in
the same way.—Or: boil 1 lb. coarse brown sugar in a gallon of
water, a quarter of an hour, scumming well; put it in a pan; when
nearly cold put in a thick slice of toasted bread spread with yeast: let
it work twenty-four hours, put it in a cask or jar, and place that in
the sun, or near the fire. You may add some ripe gooseberries,
bruised.

Good Common Vinegar.

To every gallon of water, put 2 lbs. coarse sugar, boil and skim. Put it
in a pan or tub, and when sufficiently cold add a slice of toast,
spread on both sides with fresh yeast. Let it stand a week, then
barrel, and set it in the sun or by the fire, for six months.

Cider Vinegar.
To every gallon of cider, put 1 lb. white sugar, shake well, and let it
ferment, four months.

Vinegar of Wine Lees.

Boil the lees half an hour, during which, skim well. Pour it into a
cask, with a bunch of chervil. Stop the cask close, and in a month it
will be ready.

Cayenne Vinegar.

Put into a quart of the best vinegar, 10 oz. cayenne, 1 oz. salt, 1 oz.
cloves, 1 oz. garlic broken, and 2 grains cochineal bruised; shake it
every day, for a fortnight.

Chili Vinegar.

Put 100 fresh gathered red chilies into a quart of the best white wine
vinegar; infuse them, ten days, shaking the bottle every other day.
½ an ounce of really good cayenne will answer the purpose of the
chilies.—A spoonful or two in melted butter, for fish sauce. Chili
Wine.—The same way as the last, using sherry, or brandy, instead of
vinegar. A fine flavouring ingredient.

Eschalot Vinegar or Wine.

Infuse in a pint of vinegar, 1 oz. eschalots, peeled and sliced, a little

scraped horse-radish, and 2 tea-spoonsful cayenne: shake the jar or
bottle, once a day for three weeks, then strain and bottle the liquor.
Wine.—Very good for flavouring made dishes: peel, mince and
pound in a mortar, 3 oz. eschalots and steep them in a pint of sherry
ten days, pour off the liquor and put in 3 oz. fresh eschalots, and let
it stand again ten days, then pour off and bottle it.

Tarragon Vinegar.

Pick the leaves on a dry day, about Midsummer, make them perfectly
dry before the fire, then put them into a wide-mouthed bottle or jar,
and pour in vinegar to cover them; steep them fourteen days, then
strain through a flannel jelly bag, into half pint bottles; cork
carefully, and keep in a dry place.

Vinegar for Salads.

Take of chives, savory, tarragon, and eschalots, each 3 oz., of balm

and mint tops, a handful each. Dry, pound, and put them into a wide
mouthed bottle or jar, with a gallon of the best vinegar, and cork
close. Set it in the sun, for a fortnight, strain it, squeeze the herbs;
let it stand a day, then strain and bottle it.

Garlic Vinegar.

Peel and bruise 2 oz. garlic, infuse it in a quart of vinegar, three

weeks. Strain and bottle it. A few drops to a pint of gravy; a very
slight flavour is approved of by some, which by others, is considered
highly offensive.

Green Mint Vinegar.

Fill a wide mouthed bottle with the green leaves, cover with vinegar
and steep them a week; pour off the vinegar, put in fresh leaves, let
it stand another week, then bottle it.

Horse-radish Vinegar.

Prepare this about November. Scrape 3 oz., also 2 oz. eschalots, and
1 drachm of cayenne, pour on them a quart of vinegar, and let it
stand a week, then strain, and it is ready.

Camp Vinegar.

Put into a pint of the best vinegar, 1 drachm of cayenne, 3 table-

spoonsful soy, 4 table-spoonsful walnut catsup, a small clove of
garlic, minced fine, and 4 anchovies chopped. Steep a month, shake
it every other day, strain it, pour it into pint or ½ pint bottles.

Cucumber Vinegar.

Pare 8 or 10 large cucumbers, cut in thin slices, and put them into a
china bowl, with 2 onions sliced, a few eschalots, a little salt, white
pepper, and cayenne. Boil a quart of vinegar, let it cool, then pour it
into the bowl; cover close, let it stand three days, and bottle it.

Basil Wine.

About the end of August fill a wide mouthed bottle with fresh leaves
of basil, cover with sherry and infuse them ten days; strain and put
in fresh leaves, infuse another ten days, then pour off, and bottle it.
A table-spoonful to a tureen of mock turtle, just before it is served.
 Raspberry Vinegar.

This, besides being a nice sauce for batter and other light puddings,
is good with water, as a summer drink, also for colds, sore throat or
fever. It will not be good unless made with fresh fruit; and the finer
the sugar, the clearer the syrup.—To 1 quart of fruit add 1 pint of
vinegar (cold); cover close for twenty-four hours; pour off the liquor,
and put to it a quart of fresh fruit, cover close and let it again stand
for twenty-four hours; repeat this for the third time. Then boil up the
vinegar, with a lb. of lump sugar to each pint, until it becomes a
syrup.
 CHAPTER XXVI.

ESSENCES.

Some of the following are useful in culinary, others in medicinal

compounds, and some in both.

Essence of Ginger.

Put 3 oz. fresh grated ginger, and 1 oz. thinly cut lemon peel into a
quart of brandy, let it stand ten days, and shake it every day.—
Essence of Allspice—Oil of pimento, 1 drachm, strong spirits of wine,
2 oz., mix them by degrees; a few drops will flavour a pint of gravy
or wine.—Essence of Nutmeg, Clove, or Mace—Put 1 drachm of
either into 2 oz. of the strongest spirit of wine. A few drops will be
sufficient.—Essence of Cinnamon—2 oz. spirits of wine, and 1
drachm of oil of cinnamon.

Essence of Savoury Spice.

1 oz. black pepper, ½ oz. allspice finely pounded, ¼ oz. grated

nutmeg, infused in a pint of brandy ten days.

Essence of Cayenne.

Steep 1 oz. good cayenne in 1 pint of brandy, or spirits of wine, a

fortnight, then strain and bottle it, for use.

Essence of Seville Orange and Lemon Peel.

Rub lump sugar on the lemon or orange, till quite saturated with the
rind, then scrape the sugar so saturated into the jar you keep it in,
rub the rind again, and so on, till you have enough, press the sugar
down close, and keep it for use. This imparts a very nice flavour to
custards and puddings. Tincture of lemon peel is made by paring the
peel, and steeping it in brandy.
 CHAPTER XXVII.

CATSUPS.

These should be made at home, as well as pickles. A small quantity

of catsup every year is sufficient, and very little time and trouble will
provide it. It should be put into small bottles (filled to the neck), for
when a cork is once drawn, catsups, essences, and pickles begin to
decay. The bottles kept lying on their side, because this tends to
preserve the cork. Keep them in a dry place.

Mushroom Catsup.

Made in September. The large flaps are best. Break off whatever
parts are dirty or decayed, and lay the rest in pieces, in an earthen
pan in layers, with salt between; put a folded cloth over, and let it
stand a day and night, or longer, by the side of the fire; then strain
off the liquor into the saucepan, and to every quart, put ½ oz. black
peppercorns, a ¼ oz. allspice, ½ oz. sliced ginger, a few cloves, and
2 or 3 blades of mace. Boil the liquor, fifteen minutes, over a quick
fire, though it will be stronger and keep longer, if boiled until the
quantity be reduced one half, and then the spices need not be put in
until it has been boiling about twenty minutes. When you take it off
the fire, let it stand to settle, pour off clear, and bottle it; the
sediment may be strained and bottled also, for it answers for fish
sauce and brown soup. Anchovies, bay leaves, and cayenne, may be
added to the spices. Dip the corks in melted rosin. Some put a table-
spoonful of brandy into each pint bottle. A table-spoonful of
mushroom catsup is sufficient to flavour ½ pint of sauce.—Or: break
them in a pan, sprinkle salt between and let them stand till the next
day, when, if their liquor be not drawn, add fresh mushrooms and
more salt: the next day pour off the liquor, boil it three hours, let it
settle, strain and add to every 2 quarts, ½ oz. of cloves, ½ oz,
nutmegs, ½ oz. mace, 1 oz. race ginger, 1 oz. jamaica, and 1 oz.
black pepper, some eschalots and horse-radish, and 1 pint of Port
wine, then boil it again half an hour. This will keep well.

Walnut Catsup.

Gather them green, prick them with a large needle, and let them lie
three days, in an earthen pan, sprinkled with a handful of salt, and a
very little water. Mash them well each day, with a rolling pin. On the
fourth day, pour some scalding hot salt and water over, mash again,
and let them stand the whole day; then with a spoon or cup, lift out
what liquor there is, pound the walnuts well, and pour a little good
vinegar and water over them, which will extract all their juice; pour
this off, and put to it what you already have, boil it slowly, and scum
well. When there is no longer any scum, put to every quart 1 oz.
bruised ginger, 1 oz. allspice, 1 oz. black pepper, a ¼ oz. each of
cloves, mace, and nutmeg; simmer it three quarters of an hour,
when cold, bottle it.—Or: when of a full size, but tender, pound the
walnuts, strain out the juice, let it settle and boil it up, taking off the
scum as it rises: to each 2 quarts allow 3 lbs. anchovies, and boil
gently till they are dissolved, then strain, and boil again with a small
quantity of garlic and eschalots, a stick of cinnamon, ½ an oz. each
of black pepper, cloves and mace, the rind of 2 lemons, 3 pints of
vinegar, 4 wine-glassfuls of port wine, and the same of strong beer;
boil it gently three quarters of an hour; scum well. The longer this is
kept the better.

Oyster Catsup.

Use fresh Melton oysters. Pound them in a marble mortar, and to a

pint of oysters add a pint of sherry. Boil them up, then add 1 oz.
salt, 2 drachms of pounded mace, and 1 drachm of cayenne; boil up
again, skim, then strain it through a sieve, and when cold, bottle it,
and seal down the corks. Brandy will assist to keep it: it is a nice
catsup for white sauces.—Cockles and muscles, the same way, but a
pounded anchovy or two may be added to give flavour.—Or: boil 100
oysters in 3 pints of sherry, with 1 lb. of anchovies, and 1 lemon
sliced, for half an hour; then strain it, add a ¼ oz. cloves, ¼ oz.
mace, 2 oz. eschalots, and 1 nutmeg sliced, boil it a quarter of an
hour: when cold, bottle it, with the spice and eschalots. If the
oysters are large they should be cut.

Tomata Catsup.

Take 6 doz. tomatas, 2 doz. eschalots, 1 doz. cloves of garlic, 2

sticks of horse-radish, and 6 bay leaves; slice and put them in 1½
pint of vinegar, with a handful of salt, 2 oz. pepper, 2 oz. allspice,
and a little mace. Boil well together, ten minutes, pour it into a pan,
let it stand till the next day, add a pint of sherry, give it one boil,
take it off the fire, skim it, and after it has stood a few minutes, add
a tea-cupful of anchovy sauce, and a tea-spoonful of cayenne.
Strain, and when cold, bottle it. The pulp may be rubbed through a
sieve for sauce.

Lobster Catsup.

Get a lobster of about 3 lbs. weight, and full of spawn, pick out all
the meat, and pound the coral with 6 anchovies in a marble mortar:
when completely bruised, add the meat, pound and moisten it with
½ a pint of sherry or Madeira, a tea-spoonful of cayenne, a wine-
glassful of chili or eschalot vinegar, and 1½ pint of eschalot wine;
mix well, put it into wide-mouthed bottles, on the top put a dessert-
spoonful of whole black peppers, to each bottle: cork tightly, rosin
them, and tie leather over. Keep in a cool place. 4 or 5 table-
spoonsful to a tureen of thick melted butter.
 CHAPTER XXVIII.

THE CELLAR.

A good cellar, besides its general convenience, in regard to a variety

of household purposes, is indispensable to every one who wishes to
have good beer. However skilful and successful the brewer, no beer,
nor, indeed, any fermented liquors (with few exceptions), can be
kept good, any length of time, especially in the summer months,
unless they be secured from being turned sour by heat, and by
sudden variations of the atmosphere. No cellar can be considered
perfect which is not below the surface of the ground. Houses in the
country are frequently without the convenience of underground
cellaring; but every house ought, where it is practicable, to be built
over cellars, which, independently of other advantages, contribute
very materially to the dryness and warmth of the building.

The directions for brewing, given by my father, in his "Cottage

Economy," are so circumstantial, and so simple, clear, and
intelligible, that any person, however inexperienced, who reads them
with attention, may, without further instruction, venture to brew
without risk of a failure. It is certain that many families, who had
previously never thought of brewing their own beer, have been
encouraged by the plainness and simplicity of his directions to
attempt it, and have never since been without good home-made
beer. Brewing is not, perhaps, in strictness, a feminine occupation;
there are, nevertheless, many women who are exceedingly skilful in
the art. It is obviously not within the province of the mistress of a
house, even to superintend the brewing department, but, when
circumstances may render it necessary that she should undertake
the task, she cannot, when about to give her directions, do better
than consult the "Cottage Economy."
The utensils necessary are: a copper, a mash-tub and stand, an
under-back, to stand under the edge of the mash-tub, when the
malt is put in, two buckets, a strainer, a cooler, a tun-tub, and a cask
to put the beer in.

Having these utensils, the next thing is, materials for making the
beer. These are, soft water, malt, and hops. The water should be
soft, because hard water does not so well extract the goodness of
the malt; but if you have none but hard water, soften it by letting it
stand two days in some open vessel in the air. The malt should be
(or, at least, usually is) ground or bruised into a very coarse meal.
The hops should be fresh, of a bright yellow, and highly scented.
Farnham hops are the cleanest and best. I give receipts for finings,
but do not recommend them, though they certainly will make beer
clear which might not be so without them.

The process is this: if you mean to make about a hogshead of beer,

take 120 gallons of water (soft, or softened by exposure to the air),
and put it into the copper. When it has boiled, pour it into the malt.
This is rather a nice matter; if you put in the malt too soon, it cakes
and becomes dough. The old-fashioned rule is, to let the steam keep
flying off till you can see your features in the water; but as the
weather frequently renders this an uncertain criterion, take your
thermometer, and plunge it into the water now and then, and when
the quicksilver stands at 170, the heat is about right. Pour the malt
in gently, taking care to stir it about as it goes in, so as to separate
it, and make every particle come in contact with the water; when it
is all in, stir it for twenty minutes or half an hour; then put your
stirring-stick across the mash-tub, and cover cloths all over to keep
in the heat. Let this, which is called mashing, go on for four or five
hours. It cannot well be too long about. When the malt has
remained soaking all this time, draw off the liquor by means of your
buckets, and put it into the copper again. This liquor is called the
"sweet wort." Light the fire under the copper, and pour into it, for
every bushel of malt that you have mashed, ¾ lb. of hops, or, if not
very good, 1 lb. for every bushel. Stir these well into the wort, and
keep it on a good hard boil for an hour, being very particular to
make it boil all the while. This being done, you have now to cool the
beer: rake the fire out from under the copper, and again take out
your liquor in your buckets; put the cooler in some place away from
the chances of dirt falling into it, and where it may stand level; then
strain the liquor into it. The next operation is, the working; and the
most difficult part of this is, to ascertain when, precisely, the liquor is
cool enough to bear it. Experienced brewers generally ascertain this
by the feel of the liquor, by merely putting the finger into it; but it is
better to use the thermometer again; plunge it in, and when the
quicksilver stands at 70 the heat is right. Then, with your buckets
again, put the whole of the liquor out of the cooler into the tun-tub;
and take a pint, or thereabouts, of fresh yeast (balm), and mix it in a
bowl with some of the liquor; then pour it into the tun-tub with the
liquor that is now cool enough to be set to work; mix it up a little by
dipping the bowl in once or twice, and pouring it down from a height
of two or three feet above the surface of the liquor in the tun-tub;
then cover the tun-tub with cloths, as you did the mash-tub. In a
few hours it will begin to work; that is, a little froth, like that of
bottled porter, will begin to rise upon the surface; when this has
risen to its height, and begins to flatten at the top and sink, it should
be skimmed off, and is good yeast, and the beer is ready to put into
the cask in your cellar. When you put it into the cask, let it stand a
day, without being bunged down, because it may work a little there.
When you find that it does not, then, if you use finings, put them in,
and bung down tightly.

The following receipt is given to me by a gentleman who is

celebrated for the excellence of his beer.

Suppose the brewer is about to make a hogshead of beer of good

strength. Eight bushels of malt will be sufficient. Let the water, if not
soft, stand two days in some vessel in the open air, which will soften
it. One hundred and twenty gallons will be sufficient; and, if he uses
ground malt, let him remember to attend to the heat of the water in
the mash-tub before he puts it in, and also to the stirring and
separating as it goes in. When it has stood long enough in the mash-
tub, he must draw it off, and put it into the copper, and then throw
in ¾ lb. of good hops for every bushel of malt; or, if the hops be not
really good and strong, 1 lb. to the bushel. Boil the liquor at least an
hour; but be very particular to make it boil the whole time; for much
depends on this. Beer that has not boiled well is always crude, and
soon spoils. It is the great fault of most brewers, that, to save the
evaporation caused by a good boiling, they cool the liquor before it
is sufficiently cooked. When it has boiled the proper time, pour it
immediately, hot as it is, into a clean cask; put the bung and vent-
peg in lightly; watch the cask, and when you find fermentation going
on, which will show itself by a little oozing out of froth round the
bung, take out both bung and vent-peg, and let them remain out till
the working is over, and the froth begins to sink down into the cask;
then put the bung and vent-peg in tightly, and the brewing is over.
The cask should not be filled to running over, yet very little space
should be left below the bung when driven in, as the body of air that
would fill this vacancy would deaden the beer.

This mode deviates from that practised by my father, in two essential

points: namely, the cooling and the working of the beer; for, in the
last receipt it is not cooled at all, and no yeast is required to work it.
If it answers, it is a less troublesome, and, calculating the cost of the
coolers, less expensive mode of brewing than that detailed in the
"Cottage Economy."

The "Cottage Economy" speaks of the necessity of keeping the casks

in good order; and this is a matter, though of great importance,
often neglected. New casks should be seasoned before they are
used; one way recommended is, to boil 2 pecks of bran or malt dust
in a copper of water, pour it hot into the cask, stop close, and let it
stand two days, then wash it out well, and drain the cask. Servants
are negligent about vent-pegs and bungs. They should be put in
tight, the tap taken out, and a cork put in, as soon as the last beer is
drawn. If the casks were kept in proper order, beer would not so
often be spoiled. Of equal consequence, is the cleanness of the
brewing utensils. They should be scoured well with a brush and
scalding water, after they have been used. Do not use soap or any
thing greasy. A strong ley of wood ashes may be used, if there be
any apprehension of taint. When hops are dear, gentian may be
substituted in part for them, in the proportion of 8¼ oz. gentian,
and 2 lbs. hops, to 12 bushels of malt.

To Fine Beer.

Draw out a gallon of ale, put to it 2 oz. isinglass, cut small and
beaten; stir the beer, and whip it with a whisk, to dissolve the
isinglass, then strain, and pour it back into the cask, stir well, a few
minutes, and put the bung in lightly, because a fresh fermentation
will take place. When that is over stop it close; let the vent-peg be
loose. Fermentation is over, make the vent-peg tight; and in a
fortnight the beer will be fine. Drink 3 parts, and bottle the rest.—A
good way to fine new beer, is to run the wort through a flannel into
the tun, before it has worked.

For Stale Small Beer.

Put 1 lb. chalk, in small pieces, into a half hogshead, and stop it
close. It will be fit to drink on the third day.—Or: put half chalk, and
the other half hops.

To Bottle Beer.
Stone bottles are best. The best corks the cheapest, put them in
cold water half an hour before you use them. The bottles perfectly
clean and sweet, fill them with beer, put in each bottle a small tea-
spoonful of powdered sugar, and let them stand uncorked, till the
next day: then cork, and lay the bottles on their sides; or, better still,
stand them with the necks downwards.—When a bottle is emptied,
the cork should be returned into it directly, or it will become musty.

To Make Cider.

The apples quite ripe, but not rotten. If the weather be frosty,
gather the apples, and spread them from 1 to 2 feet thick, on the
ground, and cover with straw; if mild, let them hang on the trees, or
remain under, if fallen, until you are ready to make the cider. It
should not be made in warm weather, unless they are beginning to
rot, in which case you must not delay. Unripe fruit should be made
by itself, as the cider never keeps.—Large cider mills will make from
100 to 150 gallons in a day, according to the difference in the quality
of fruit, some sorts of apples being more tough and less juicy than
others, consequently requiring more grinding. Not more than 7 or 8
bushels should be put into the mill at once. They should be ground,
till the kernels and rinds are all well mashed, to give the flavour to
cider. Pour the cider from the mill into a press; press the juice well,
then pour it into hogsheads. When it has done fermenting, and the
time for this is very uncertain, rack it off into other hogsheads, let it
settle, and then bung it down.

ENGLISH WINES AND CORDIALS.

Fruit of every kind should be gathered in dry sunny weather, quite

ripe. All home made wines are the better for a little brandy; though
some persons never use any.

To Clear Wine.

Dissolve ½ lb. hartshorn shavings in cider or rhenish wine; this is

sufficient for a hogshead.—Or: to 2 table-spoonsful boiled rice, add
½ oz. burnt alum in powder: mix with a pint, or more, of the wine,
stir it into the cask, with a stout stick, but do not agitate the lees.—
Or: dissolve ½ oz. isinglass, in a pint or more of the wine, mix with
it ½ oz. of chalk in powder, and put it into the cask: stir the wine,
but not the lees.

British Sherry, or Malt Wine.

Take 12 quarts of the best sweet wort, from pale malt, let it cool and
put it into a 10 gallon cask. Take as much water as will be required
to fill up the cask, put it on the fire, with 22 lbs. of the best lump
sugar, stir from time to time, and let it boil gently about a quarter of
an hour, taking off the scum as it rises. Take it off the fire, let it cool,
pour it into the cask, and put in a little good yeast. It may, perhaps,
continue to ferment two or three weeks; when this has ceased, put
in 3 lbs. raisins, chopped fine; these may cause fresh fermentation,
which must be allowed to subside; then put in the rinds of 4 Seville
oranges, and their juice, also a quart of good brandy; at the end of
three or four days, if a fresh fermentation have not taken place, put
the bung in tight. Keep it a year in the cask, then bottle it; the
longer it is kept the better.—Or: stir 42 lbs. good moist sugar into 14
gallons of water, till it is dissolved, then boil it twenty minutes; let it
cool in a tub, then put in 16 lbs. good Malaga raisins, picked and
chopped; when it is quite cold pour in 2 gallons of strong beer ready
to be tunned, and let it stand eight days; then taking out the raisins,
put it into a 16 gallon cask, with 2 quarts of the best brandy, 1 lb.
bitter almonds blanched, and 2 oz. isinglass. Bottle it in a year.
 British Madeira.

Boil 30 lbs. moist sugar in 10 gallons of water, half an hour, and

scum well. Let it cool, and to every gallon put 1 quart of ale, out of
the vat; let this work, in a tub, a day or two; then put it in the cask,
with 1 lb. sugar candy, 6 lbs. raisins, 1 quart of brandy, and 2 oz.
isinglass. When it has ceased to ferment, bung it tight, for a year.

English Frontiniac.

Boil 11 lbs. lump sugar in 4 gallons of water, half an hour; when only
milk warm, put it to nearly a peck of elder flowers, picked clear from
the stalks, the juice and peel of 4 large lemons, cut very thin, 3 lbs.
stoned raisins, and 2 or 3 spoonsful yeast: stir often, for four or five
days. When quite done working, bung it tight, and bottle it in a
week.

Red Currant Wine.

To 28 lbs. of moist sugar, allow 4 gallons of water, pour it over the

sugar, and stir it well. Have a sieve of currants (which usually
produces between 10 and 11 quarts of juice), squeeze the fruit with
the hand, to break the currants, and as you do so, put the crushed
fruit into a horse-hair sieve, press it, and when no more will run
through the sieve, wring the fruit in a coarse cloth. Pour the juice on
the sugar and water, mix it, and then pour it all into a 9 gallon cask,
and fill it with water, if the barrel should not be full.—The cask
should be filled up with water every day, while the wine ferments,
and be bunged up tight, when it ceases. This is a cheap and simple
method of making currant wine.—Or: put a bushel of red, and a
peck of white currants, into a tub or pan, squeeze well; strain them
through a sieve upon 28 lbs. of powdered sugar; when the sugar is