Journal of Forensic Chemistry and Toxicology

47
Volume 1 Number 1, July - December 2015
Review Article

Forensic Importance of Cosmetics and Cosmeceuticals

Anu Singla*, Vinod Dhingra**

Authors affiliation: *Institute of Forensic Sci enc e, Reprints requests: Anu Singla, Department of Forensic
Bundelkhand University, Jhansi-284128. **Forensic scientist, Science, Bundelkhand University, Jhansi-284128.
Regional Forensic Science laboratory, Gwalior- 474009 E-mail: anusingla73@gmail.com

Abstract
The branch of science which deals with the study of cosmetics is known as cosmetology. Women love
wearing makeup, as they feel it can help them enhance their beauty and make them feel and look more
attractive and gorgeous. Further, according to Locard’s Principle of Exchange, “every contact leaves a trace”.
Many of the violent crimes such as assaults, robberies, rapes and murders involve direct contact between the
assailant and a female victim. Well known examples of some trace or associative evidences are hair, fibers,
paint chips, broken glass fragments, soil particles, etc. Thus, a transfer of some type of cosmetic product is
possible and, consequently, the clothing or body of the suspect may bear smeared traces of a cosmetic. The
analysis of these smudges can provide circumstantial evidence connecting a suspect and victim or placing a
suspect at the crime scene. This review is an effort for enlisting of various cosmetics and cosmeceuticals which
may helpful in solving crimes against women.
Keywords: cosmetics, cosmeceuticals, forensic investigation, chemical evidences

Introduction applicable to, the human body or any part thereof for
cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or
altering the appearance, and includes any article

T he use of cosmetics is worldwide and dates

from the remotest antiquity. People of all ages
are aware of their appearance and give a lot of
intended for use as a component of cosmetic”.

attention on grooming their looks. Cosmetics is a Different Kinds of Cosmetics

general term applied to all preparations which are
intended to be applied externally to beautify and
condition the body by cleaning, coloring, softening Women love wearing makeup, as they feel it can
or protecting the skin, nail, hair, lips or eyes. “The help them enhance their beauty and make them feel
branch of science which deals with the study of cosmetics is and look more attractive and gorgeous. While some
known as cosmetology.” As per Oxford Dictionary, a cosmetics are useful for making the skin feel soft, healthy
cosmetic is defined as “a preparation applied to the and flawless, others assist in adding color to the skin,
body, especially the face, to improve its application. The thereby giving the appearance of good health and youth.
range covers everything from the latest cosmetics to skin Some different types of cosmetics are given below:
and hair care”.
According to Drugs and Cosmetic Act, 1940 cosmetic Solutions
means “any article intended to be rubbed, poured, The simplest kind of cosmetics, solution cosmetic
sprinkled, or sprayed on, or introduced into, or otherwise

© 2015 of
Journal Red FlowerChemistry
Forensic Publication Pvt.
and Ltd.
Toxicology / Volume 1 Number 1 / July - December 2015
48 Anu Singla et. al. / Forensic Importance of Cosmetics and Cosmeceuticals

is a homogeneous mixture of soluble ingredients. property known as “shear thinning”. Examples: hair
These are prepared by simply filling the containers products, body washes, shaving products and
with main diluent (usually water) and mixing with toothpastes.
the other ingredients to create the resultant cosmetic
product. Examples: shampoos, body wash, hand
cleansers, mascaras, eye liners, colognes, and so on. Sticks
Sticks enter the cosmetic product list when
consumers look out for cosmetics that they would not
Creams/ Emulsions want to touch, say, lipstick or underarm deodorant.
Most of the cosmetics contain raw materials that
are not compatible. Hence, creams or emulsions are
preferred. These are pseudo stable mixtures of Tablets & Capsules
immiscible liquids dispersed in another liquid. Creams Color cosmetics are generally found in the form of
and emulsions are prepared by combining three formula cakes, tablets or capsules. The solid ingredients are
components, such as oil phase, aqueous phase and an blended well with one another and pressed to get the
emulsifier. Examples: cosmetics like hand moisturizers, desired shape. Examples: compact powder, eye
make up, hair conditioners, sunscreens, etc. shadow, cheek shadow cakes, etc.

Lotions Generally Available Cosmetics in Market

Lotions are less greasy and lighter counterparts of
creams that come in handy for applications, wherein
Cosmetic products have a history covering
creams cannot be used. Lotions are basically thin
thousands of years with the use of many ingredients
creams that undergo the same production procedure
from plants, animals and mineral sources. Generally
as that of creams. Moreover, they can easily be applied
available cosmetic products in market are:
without worrying about them getting thick as opposed
to emulsions that get thick on cooling down. Examples: (a) Oral care products include toothpaste,
facial moisturizers, leave-in hair conditioners and toothpowder and mouthwash.
moisturizing cleansers. (b) Hair care products include shampoos,
conditioners, serums, hair oils and sprays.
Suspensions (c) Skin care products include lotions, moisturizers,
Suspensions are cosmetics that are used for sunscreens, cold creams, cleansers, face wash.
overcoming incompatible ingredients. Similar to (d) Lip care products include lipsticks, lip gloss, lip
creams, suspensions are clear solutions containing balms, lip liners.
visible particles, such as gelatin beads or inorganic
(e) Other miscellaneous products include nail
minerals, spread throughout. Examples: sunscreens,
lacquers, nail removers, kohl, anti-perspirants,
hand washes and shampoos are some such examples.
etc.

Ointments/ Pastes
But, once the product claims venture into
Ointments or pastes are extremely thick products used diagnosis, treatment, prevention of any disease, the
for dressing hair and cleaning skin. They are, generally, product is considered to be a ‘DRUG’. Therefore,
anhydrous (contain no water), sticky and greasy. products can be both cosmetic as well as drug if it
fulfills the intended use.
Powders Now-a-days a new term is gaining much more
Powders are the most common and popular form importance in the field of cosmetology i.e.
of cosmetic products. They are an amalgamation of ‘COSMECEUTICALS’. These are cosmetic products
solid raw materials which are ground together to get with biologically active ingredients purporting to have
a fine powder. Examples: products like baby powder, medical or drug-like benefits.
eye powder, foot powder, talcum powder, etc. Cosmeceutical is a pragmatic term that enables us
to state without pretense the benefits of a product.
The FD & C Act, 1938 defines cosmetic by its intended
Gels
use, meaning cleansing, beautifying, promoting
Gels are thick, clear products characterized by a attractiveness or altering appearance. Products in this
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 Anu Singla et. al. / Forensic Importance of Cosmetics and Cosmeceuticals 49

category include lipsticks, perfumes, skin An Industrial Overview of Cosmetics in India

moisturizers, nail polish, shampoos, deodorants, and
other beautifying products.
The cosmetic and personal care industry has been
Although there is no legal class called cosmeceuticals growing at an average rate of about 15% for the last
and the designated products stand at the border line of few years. This is mainly accounted from low and
cosmetics and drugs. The cosmeceutical label applies medium priced category products, comprises of about
only to products which are used topically, such as 90% of cosmetic market, in terms of volume.
creams, lotions, and ointments.
The rising demands for cosmetic products,
particularly in urban population owes to numerous
Types of Cosmeceuticals reasons like mall culture, better purchasing power,
awareness towards looking better, by both men and
women, nature of occupation, development in
On the basis of active ingredients present, advertisement technology (thanks to celebrities and
cosmeceuticals are: people of glamour world !!) and in whole, availability
A. Antioxidants: prevent risk of sun damage to skin. of wide range of cosmetic products- from head to toe.
B. Peptide: stimulates the production of collagen and In general, India is a very price sensitive market
(Nanda et al, 2005).
thickens the skin.
Growth Factors–chemical messengers between
cells playing a key role in cell division, blood Indian Standards
vessel growth as well as in production and According to BIS (Bureau of Indian Standards), all
distribution of collagen and elastin. the products shall meet the requirements pertaining
C. Combination Product: includes multiple to safety, quality and performance. These standards
antioxidants, retinol plus antioxidants, growth can be utilized in their forensic detection and
factors plus vitamin C or other unique identification. Table 1 describes the list of products
combinations. with their IS code number.

Table 1: List of Products with their IS Code Number

Chemicals Commonly Used in Cosmetics ingredients which are deemed to be industrial

chemicals. Industrial chemicals may be either
Now-a-days, cosmetics are made from a range of synthetic chemicals or naturally occurring chemicals.

Journal of Forensic Chemistry and Toxicology / Volume 1 Number 1 / July - December 2015
50 Anu Singla et. al. / Forensic Importance of Cosmetics and Cosmeceuticals

Alcohol – isopropyl alcohol blush and foundation, but you can also find it in
Isopropyl alcohol, also known as isopropanol, is various other cosmetic products like moisturizer,
an alcohol that evaporates quickly. Isopropyl alcohol cleanser and perfume.
is a widely used ingredient in cosmetics and personal
care products and can be found in products such as
Triethanolamine, Diethanolamine & Monoethanolamine
aftershave lotions, bath products, eye makeup, other
makeup products, cleansing products, as well as nail, Triethanolamine, diethanolamine and ethano-
hair and skin care products. lamine are clear, colorless, viscous liquids with
ammonia-like odors. In cosmetics and personal care
products, triethanolamine is used in makeup
Cetyl alcohol products such as eyeliners, mascara, eye shadows,
Extracted from coconut oil, it is an emollient that is blushers, make-up bases and foundations, as well as
included in skin care products to stabilize the in fragrances, hair care products, hair dyes, wave sets,
formulations or to alter their consistencies, or to increase shaving products, sunscreens, and skin care and skin
their foaming capacity. It is often included in baby cleansing products. Diethanolamine and ethano-
lotions, hand creams, foundation, lipsticks, shampoos, lamine are used mostly in permanent waves and hair
mascara, deodorants, nail polish removers etc. dyes and colors.

Stearyl alcohol Ethoxylated Surfactants–PEG

Stearyl alcohol is also derived from coconut oil. 1, 4-dioxane is produced in trace amounts as an
Because it is an emollient as well as an emulsifier, it unwanted by-product in the manufacture of
can be substituted for cetyl alcohol to firm skin care ethoxylated substances (for example, as impurity in
formulations. It is mostly found in creams, lubricants, PEG). Polyethylene glycols (PEGs) and their anionic
depilatories and conditioners. or nonionic derivatives are widely used in cosmetics
as surfactants, cleansing agents, emulsifiers, skin
conditioners, and humectants. Exposure to trace
Cetearyl alcohol amounts of 1,4-dioxane can potentially occur when
Cetearyl alcohol is an emulsifying wax that is used using products that contain ethoxylated substances
to soften thick formulas like skin ointments. Derived such as detergents, cosmetics, toiletries, etc.
from natural oils and fats, it is very efficient in
stabilizing skin care formulations because it imparts Formaldehyde
an emollient feel to the skin. It can be used in water-
in-oil emulsions, oil-in-water emulsions and Formaldehyde is a colorless, flammable gas often
anhydrous formulations. Cetearyl alcohol is widely used in cosmetics. It is most commonly used as a water
used in cleansers, permanent hair color, face creams, solution called formalin, rather than in its pure form.
eye make-up and sunblocks. With the help of preservatives, formaldehyde is released
in small amounts over time to help protect cosmetic
products against contamination by bacteria during
Ammonium lauryl sulfate storage and during continued use. Formaldehyde can
Ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS) is an anionic be found in nail polishes, nail hardeners, eyelash glues,
surfactant used in cosmetics such as cleansing agents, hair gels, soaps, makeup, shampoos, lotions, and
hair shampoos, bubble baths and hair bleaches. deodorants, among other products.

Imidazolidinyl urea
Butylated hydroxytoluene
Imidazolidinyl urea is an odorless white powder.
Butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) is used as an In cosmetics and personal care products,
antioxidant in food, animal feed and cosmetics. Imidazolidinyl urea can be found in many product
Primarily acts as an antioxidant food additive because types including lotions, creams, hair conditioners,
of its ability to preserve fats. In cosmetics, it is also shampoos and deodorants.
used as a preservative. As an antioxidant, it helps
fight against the deterioration of cosmetic products
caused by chemical reactions with oxygen. It is mostly Lanolin
used in makeup products such as eyeliner, lipstick, Lanolin is an ointment-like material isolated from
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 Anu Singla et. al. / Forensic Importance of Cosmetics and Cosmeceuticals 51

wool that is sheared from sheep. Lanolin can be “BP-33 ) is an organic compound used as an
separated into lanolin oil, a liquid phase, and lanolin ingredient in sunscreens because it absorbs UVB and
wax a solid phase. Heating Lanolin with water UVA rays. The ingredient easily dissolves into lotions
produces a mixture of organic acids (lanolin acid) and creams. Oxybenzone is also used in lip balms,
and a mixture of organic alcohols (lanolin alcohol). lipstick, moisturizers, anti-aging creams, conditioners,
Lanolin and its related ingredients are widely used and fragrances.
in the formulation of cosmetics and personal care
products. These ingredients can be found in baby
products, skin care, shaving, manicuring, hair care, Paraben preservatives: methyl, propyl, butyl, and ethyl
suntan and sunscreen products, as well as eye, lip Paraben preservatives are widely used in makeup,
and facial makeup. moisturizers, shampoos and conditioners, and
shaving products but they have hormone-like
activities. Parabens are chemicals that slow down
Lead the growth of mold in personal care products,
Lead is a bluish-gray, heavy metal that occurs pharmaceuticals, and foods.
naturally in the Earth’s crust and is present in trace
amount in the environment, in numerous foods and
in some natural products. Lead can be present in Phthalates: diethylphthalate (DEP) and dimethylphthalate
nearly all things we use and consume on a daily basis, (DMP)
including food and cosmetics. The toxicity of lead Phthalates are a group of chemicals that are used
compounds is mostly related to the lead portion in predominantly as solvents and plasticisers (plastic
the compound. softeners) in both industrial and consumer products.
There are many phthalate chemicals in use
worldwide.
Mercury
Mercury is a common ingredient found in skin
lightening soaps and creams. It is also found in other Propylene/butylene glycol
cosmetics, such as eye makeup cleansing products Propylene glycol is widely used as a food additive
and mascara. Mercury salts inhibit the formation of and in pharmaceutical preparations.
melanin, resulting in a lighter skin tone. Mercury in
cosmetics exists in two forms: inorganic and organic.
Inorganic mercury (e.g. ammoniated mercury) is used Sodium lauryl sulfate
in skin lightening soaps and creams. Organic mercury Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) is a widely used
compounds (thiomersal [ethyl mercury] and phenyl surfactant. In cosmetics and personal care products,
mercuric salts) are used as cosmetic preservatives in sodium lauryl sulfate is used primarily in shampoos,
eye makeup cleansing products and mascara. bath products, hair colorings, facial makeup,
deodorants, perfumes, and shaving preparations, but
can also be found in other product formulations.
Mineral oil/waxes – including liquidum paraffinum,
Sodium lauryl sulfate cleans the skin and hair by
paraffin oil, paraffin wax
helping water to mix with oil and dirt so that they
White mineral oil is a mixture of liquid hydrocarbons, can be rinsed away.
essentially paraffinic and naphthenic in nature. It is
obtained from petroleum, and is intensively refined
following several steps including atmospheric and Toluene
vacuum distillation, removal of aromatic and Toluene is a clear liquid with an aromatic odor. In
unsaturated compounds, de waxing and further cosmetics and personal care products, the use of toluene
processing. Some petroleum oil derivatives may contain is limited to nail products. Toluene is used as a solvent
polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, some of which are to dissolve other substances, such as resins and
known to be carcinogens. Only the highest purity plasticizers, used in the formulation of nail products.
medicinal-grade white mineral oil, with extremely low
levels of harmful hydrocarbons, is used in cosmetics. Apart from the above mentioned chemicals, some
more chemicals and their approximate concentrations
are given in Table 2. These chemicals can be
Oxybenzone chemically analyzed in cosmetic products for
Oxybenzone (also called “benzophenone-33 or evidential value.

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52 Anu Singla et. al. / Forensic Importance of Cosmetics and Cosmeceuticals

Table 2: List of Chemicals Commonly Used in Cosmetic Products

Importance of Cosmetics and Cosmeceuticals in chips, broken glass fragments, soil particles, etc. Thus,
Forensic Investigations a transfer of some type of cosmetic product is possible
and, consequently, the clothing or body of the suspect
may bear smeared traces of a cosmetic. The analysis
With a population of over 1 billion people in India, of these smudges could provide circumstantial
the cosmetic and personal care industry has been evidence connecting a suspect and victim or placing
growing at an average rate of about 15% for the last a suspect at the crime scene.
few years. The present article is a brief overview of
Forensic scientists are assigned the task to examine
cosmetics, differences between cosmetics and
the physical evidence with a range of analytical
cosmeceuticals, and they can be utilized in forensic
techniques to potentially identify trace amounts of
detection and identification.
evidence. Analysis of cosmetic traces from crime
Further, according to Locard’s Principle of scenes can be used to establish physical contact
Exchange, “every contact leaves a trace”, many of the between two individuals, such as a victim and a
violent crimes such as assaults, robberies, rapes and suspect, or to place an individual at a crime scene.
murders involve direct contact between the assailant The majority of techniques which are employed in
and a female victim. Well known examples of some forensic investigations of cosmetics are Gas
trace or associative evidences are hair, fibers, paint Chromatography and Fourier Transform Infrared
Journal of Forensic Chemistry and Toxicology / Volume 1 Number 1 / July - December 2015
 Anu Singla et. al. / Forensic Importance of Cosmetics and Cosmeceuticals 53

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Journal of Forensic Chemistry and Toxicology / Volume 1 Number 1 / July - December 2015