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 Honolulu,
Waikiki & Oahu
11th Edition

by Jeanette Foster
A B O U T T H E AU T H O R
A resident of the Big Island, Jeanette Foster has skied the slopes of Mauna Kea—during a Fourth
of July ski meet, no less—and gone scuba diving with manta rays off the Kona Coast. A prolific
writer widely published in travel, sports, and adventure magazines, she’s also the editor of Zagat’s
Survey to Hawaii’s Top Restaurants. In addition to writing this guide, Jeanette is the author of
Frommer’s Hawaii Day by Day, Frommer’s Hawaii, Frommer’s Maui, Frommer’s Hawaii from $80
a Day, Frommer’s Kauai, Frommer’s Hawaii with Kids, and Frommer’s Portable Big Island.

W I L E Y P U B L I S H I N G, I N C.
111 River St.
Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774
Copyright © 2010 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No
part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in
any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or
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Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authoriza-
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Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John
Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark
of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their
respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor
mentioned in this book.
ISBN 978-0-470-49764-7
Editor: Jamie Ehrlich
Production Editor: Eric T. Schroeder
Cartographer: Roberta Stockwell
Photo Editor: Richard Fox
Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services
Front cover photo: Rental surfboards at Waikiki Beach on Oahu. ©Chad Ehlers/
Alamy Images
Back cover photo: The King Kamehameha Statue draped with lei on June 11th, the day
that honors him in downtown Honolulu. ©Ann Cecil/Photo Resource Hawaii/Alamy
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Manufactured in the United States of America
5 4 3 2 1
 CONTENTS

LIST OF MAPS viii

1 THE BEST OF OAHU 1

1 The Best Oahu Experiences . . . . . . . .1 9 The Best Luxury Hotels & Resorts. . .10
2 The Best Beaches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 10 The Best Bargain
3 The Best Snorkeling & Diving Accommodations. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Sites . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 11 The Best Resort Spas . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
4 The Best Golf Courses . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 Pampering in Paradise . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
5 The Best Walks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 12 The Best Restaurants . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
6 The Best Views . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 13 The Best Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
7 The Best Adventures for 14 The Best Spots for
Thrill-Seekers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 Sunset Cocktails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
8 The Best Places to Discover 15 The Best Oahu Websites. . . . . . . . . . .17
the Real Oahu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

2 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO OAHU 19

1 When to Go. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19 Don’t Get Burned:

Oahu Calendar of Events . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Smart Tanning Tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
2 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 7 Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
3 Entry Requirements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 8 Specialized Travel Resources . . . . . .42
4 Getting There & Getting 9 Sustainable Tourism. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44
Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 Questions to Ponder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
The Welcoming Lei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 General Resources for
Car Rental: To Smoke or Green Travel. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
Not to Smoke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 10 Packages for the
5 Money & Costs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 Independent Traveler . . . . . . . . . . . . .49
The Value of US$ vs. Other Tips for Digital Travel
Popular Currencies. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Photography . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
What Things Cost in Honolulu . . . . . . 37 11 Special-Interest Trips . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51
6 Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 12 Staying Connected. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56
iv Frommers.com: The Complete What If Your Dream Hotel
Travel Resource . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Becomes a Nightmare? . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
Online Traveler’s Toolbox. . . . . . . . . . . . 58 14 Getting Married in the Islands . . . . .61
13 Tips on Accommodations . . . . . . . . .59

3 SUGGESTED HONOLULU, WAIKIKI &

OAHU ITINERARIES 63
H O N O LU LU, WA I K I K I & O A H U

1 The Island in Brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64 5 Oahu for Families . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78

2 Oahu in 1 Week . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .72 6 One Week of Adventures
3 Oahu in 2 Weeks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .76 on Oahu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80
4 A Cultural & Historic Week
on Oahu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77

4 WHERE TO STAY 82

1 Waikiki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .82 4 The North Shore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111

Family-Friendly Hotels. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 5 Leeward Oahu: The Waianae
Big Changes in Waikiki: Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113
Waikiki Beach Walk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 6 Oahu’s Campgrounds &
CO N T E N T S

2 Honolulu Beyond Waikiki. . . . . . . . 106 Wilderness Cabins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114

3 The Windward Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . 109 Tips on Safety at Hawaii’s Parks . . .115

5 WHERE TO DINE 120

1 Waikiki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 Local Chains & Familiar Names . . . .140

Dining in Waikiki 24-7. . . . . . . . . . . . . .125 3 East of Waikiki: Kahala . . . . . . . . . . . 146
Tasty Tours for the Hungry 4 East Oahu. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147
Traveler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .128 5 The Windward Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . 147
2 Honolulu beyond Waikiki. . . . . . . . 129 6 The North Shore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149
Attention Condo Dwellers: LUAU! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .151
Fix, Freeze & Feed Dinners . . . . . . . . . .132
7 Leeward Oahu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
Family-Friendly Restaurants. . . . . . . .135

6 FUN IN THE SURF & SUN 153

1 Beaches. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 3 Nature Hikes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171

Favorite Outdoor Experiences . . . . . .158 4 Great Golf. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177
2 Watersports . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164 5 Other Outdoor Activities . . . . . . . . 182
Experiencing Jaws: 6 From the Sidelines:
Up Close & Personal. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .168 Spectator Sports . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184
 v
7 EXPLORING OAHU 186
1 Guided Tours. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186 Walking tour 1: Historic
Rolling through Waikiki Chinatown. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .204
on a Segway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .188 Walking Tour 2: Honolulu
2 Historic Honolulu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189 Waterfront . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .209
Rainy Days or Too Much Time Walking Tour 3: Historic
in the Sun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .197 Honolulu. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .211

H O N O LU LU, WA I K I K I & O A H U
3 Fish, Flora & Fauna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197 Walking Tour 4: Kapiolani Park. . . . .216
Especially for Kids . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .198 The President Lived Here,
and Here, and Here . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .220
4 Spectacular Views. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201
6 Beyond Honolulu: Exploring
5 More Museums . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203
the Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221

8 SHOPPING 232

1 In & Around Honolulu & The New Royal Hawaiian

Waikiki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232 Shopping Center. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .245
Oahu’s Vibrant Gallery Scene. . . . . . .234 2 Windward Oahu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246
Pampered Pedicure: 3 The North Shore: Haleiwa . . . . . . . 247

CO N T E N T S
A Must-Have in Hawaii . . . . . . . . . . . .237

9 OAHU AFTER DARK 249

1 The Bar & Club Scene . . . . . . . . . . . 249 4 Jazz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253

2 Hawaiian Music . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252 5 The Performing Arts. . . . . . . . . . . . . 254
Get Down with ARTafterDark . . . . . .252 6 More Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . . 257
3 The Blues . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253

10 OAHU FAST FACTS & WEBSITES 258

1 Fast Facts: Honolulu, 2 Airline, Hotel & Car Rental

Waikiki & Oahu. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258 Websites. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262

INDEX 264

General Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264 Restaurant Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273

Accommodations Index. . . . . . . . . 272
 LIST OF MAPS

The Hawaiian Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Beaches & Outdoor Pursuits

Oahu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 on Oahu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154
TheBus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Honolulu Attractions . . . . . . . . . . . . 190
Honolulu Neighborhoods Walking Tour 1: Historic
in Brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Chinatown. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205
Waikiki Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 Walking Tour 2: Honolulu
Waterfront . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211
Downtown Honolulu . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68
Walking Tour 3: Historic
Suggested Oahu Itineraries . . . . . . . 74
Honolulu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213
1 Week of Adventures on Oahu . . . 81
Walking Tour 4: Kapiolani Park . . . 217
Waikiki Accommodations . . . . . . . . . 84
Eastern Oahu & the
Waikiki Dining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 Windward Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223
Honolulu Dining Central & Leeward Oahu . . . . . . . . . 229
beyond Waikiki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
Oahu’s North Shore. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231
AC K N OW L E D G M E N T
Much love and many heartfelt thanks to Priscilla Life for her excellent research on this
book.
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H OW TO CO N TAC T U S
In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops,
and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the informa-
tion with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recom-
mendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s Honolulu, Waikiki & Oahu, 11th Edition
Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774

A N A D D I T I O N A L N OT E
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is espe-
cially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when
making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for
the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we
encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras,
purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.
F R O M M E R ’S S TA R R AT I N G S, I CO N S & A B B R E V I AT I O N S
Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value,
service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state, and
regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and
budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (recom-
mended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are
rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recom-
mended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see).
In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature icons that point you to the
great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from tourists.
Throughout the book, look for:

Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about

Fun Facts Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun

Kids Best bets for kids, and advice for the whole family

Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of

Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money

Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money

Value Great values—where to get the best deals

The following abbreviations are used for credit cards:

AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa
DC Diners Club MC MasterCard

T R AV E L R E S O U R C E S AT F R O M M E R S.CO M
Frommer’s travel resources don’t end with this guide. Frommers.com has travel information
on more than 4,000 destinations. We update features regularly, giving you access to the most
current trip-planning information and the best airfare, lodging, and car-rental bargains. You
can also listen to podcasts, connect with other Frommers.com members through our active-
reader forums, share your travel photos, read blogs from guidebook editors and fellow travel-
ers, and much more.
 1
The Best of Oahu
Everyone ventures to Oahu seeking a different experience. Some talk
about wanting to find the “real” Hawaii, some are looking for heart-pounding adventure,
some yearn for the relaxing and healing powers of the islands, and others are drawn by
Hawaii’s aloha spirit, in which kindness and friendliness prevail.
This book is designed to help you have the vacation of your dreams. For those too
excited to page through from beginning to end, this chapter highlights the very best of
what Honolulu and Oahu have to offer.

1 THE BEST OAHU EXPERIENCES

To have the absolute best experiences on • Meet Local Folks: If you go to Hawaii
Oahu, be prepared for a different culture, and see only people like the ones back
language, cuisine, and way of doing things. home, you might as well stay home.
Slow down—you’re on an island that oper- Extend yourself, leave the resorts and
ates on its own schedule. To really experi- tourist quarters, go out and learn about
ence Oahu, we recommend the following: Hawaii and its people. Just smile and
• Get Out on the Water: You’ll take say “Howzit?” which means “How’s it
home memories of an emerald island going?”—and you’ll usually make a new
rising out of the cobalt sea with white friend. Oahu is remarkably cosmopoli-
wispy clouds set against an azure sky, or tan; every ethnic group in the world
the Waikiki shoreline colored by the seems to be here. It’s fascinating to dis-
setting sun. There are many different cover the varieties of food, culture, lan-
boats to choose from, ranging from tiny guage, and customs.
kayaks to 100-foot sightseeing vessels, • Drive to the North Shore: Just an
even state-of-the-art boats guaranteed hour’s drive from Honolulu, the North
to prevent seasickness. See chapter 6 for Shore is another world: a pastoral, rural
details on all kinds of cruises and water- setting with magnificent beaches and a
sports. slower way of life. During the winter
• Plunge Under the Water: Don mask, months, stop and watch the profession-
fins, and snorkel and dive into the als surf the monster waves. See chapter 7.
magical world beneath the surface, • Watch the Hula: This is Hawaii, so you
where clouds of colorful tropical fish flit have to experience the hula. A hula
by, craggy old turtles lumber along, and performance is a popular way for visi-
tiny marine creatures hover over exotic tors to get a taste of traditional Hawai-
corals. Can’t swim? Take one of the ian culture. For a more genuine
many submarines or semi-submersibles. Hawaiian hula experience, catch the
If you come to Hawaii and ignore the hula halau performed Monday through
underwater world, you’re missing half Friday at 1pm at the Bishop Museum.
of what makes up this paradise. See See chapter 7.
chapter 6.
2 • Experience a Turning Point in America’s Memorial, which straddles the eternal
History: The United States could no tomb for the 1,177 sailors and Marines
longer turn its back on World War II after trapped below deck when the battleship
December 7, 1941, the day that Japanese sank in 9 minutes, is a moment you’ll
warplanes bombed Pearl Harbor. Stand- never forget. See chapter 7.
ing on the deck of the USS Arizona

2 T H E B E S T B E AC H E S
See chapter 6 for complete details on all consider it the place to go. Weekdays,
these beaches and their facilities. you practically have it all to yourself.
• Kahana Bay Beach Park: With salt-
THE BEST OF OAHU

• Waikiki Beach: This famous stretch of

sand is the spot that originally put and-pepper sand, a crescent-shaped
Hawaii on the tourist map. No beach beach protected by ironwoods and
anywhere is so widely known or so kamani trees and, as a backdrop, a lush
universally sought as this narrow, junglelike valley interrupted only by
11⁄2-mile-long crescent of soft sand at jagged cliffs, you’d swear this beach was
the foot of a string of high-rise hotels. in Tahiti or Bora Bora. Kahana offers
Home to the world’s longest-running great swimming (even safe for chil-
beach party, Waikiki attracts nearly five dren), good fishing, and perfect condi-
1 tions for kayaking. Combine that with
million visitors a year from every corner
of the planet. In high season, it’s packed picnic areas, camping, and hiking trails,
T H E B E S T B E AC H E S

towel-to-towel, but there’s no denying and you have one of the best beaches on
the beauty of Waikiki. the island.
• Lanikai Beach: Hidden and off the • Malaekahana Beach: If you’d like to
beaten tourist path, this beach on the venture back to old Hawaii, before jet
windward side has a mile of powder- planes brought millions of people to
soft sand and water that’s safe for swim- Oahu and there were few footprints on
ming. It’s the perfect isolated spot for a the sand, then go north to the romantic
morning of swimming and relaxation. wooded beach park at Malaekahana.
With the prevailing trade winds, it’s This is a place to sit in quiet solitude or
also excellent for sailing and windsurf- to beachcomb along the shore. There’s
ing. Sun-worshipers should arrive in the good swimming most of the time, and
morning, as the shadow of the Koolau good snorkeling when it’s calm, but no
Mountains blocks the sun’s rays in the lifeguard. Surprisingly, very few visitors
afternoon. come to Malaekahana—one of the best
• Kailua Beach: Imagine a 30-acre pub- beaches on Oahu, it’s a true find.
lic park with a broad, grassy area with • Sunset Beach: Surfers around the
picnic tables, a public boat ramp, rest- world know this site, famous for its
rooms, a pavilion, a volleyball court, spectacular winter surf—the waves can
and food stands. Add a wide, sandy be huge, thundering peaks reaching 15
beach, great for diving, swimming, sail- to 20 feet. In the summer months,
ing, snorkeling, and board- and wind- Sunset calms down and becomes a safe
surfing, and you’ve got Kailua Beach, swimming beach. It’s a great place to
which is tops on the windward side of people-watch year-round, as you’ll spot
the island. On weekends, local families everybody from wannabe Baywatch
babes to King Kong surfers.
 160˚
0 W Hanalei 9 W
Princeville 159˚
Pr 158˚
8 W 157˚
7 W 156˚
6 W 155˚
5 W
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a KAUAI 22˚ N

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ai Laie Mountain
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LANAI Kihei
Honolulu–Tokyo ki
Honolulu Honolulu–Los Angeles i k ahi el
la Hal k
Haleakala

AL DAT
3,862 miles 2,556 miles el nn
Hawaii Kea hann
C National Park k ha
KAHOOLAWE C
ha
Honolulu–Mexico City ha
3,791 miles n ui
e

INTERNATION
Al Hawii
Equator
Honolulu–Sydney
5,065 miles P A C I F I C HAWAIII 20˚ N
Samoa “The
T e Big Island”
Island
Islands O C E A N Waimea
Fiji Tahitii

AU
Easter Mauna Kea
Kea
Cook Island Keahole Point
Point

ST
Islands Hilo

RA
Tonga Kailua-Kona

LI
P A C I F I C O C E A N

A
Sydney Captain Cook
o Kilauea
Mauna Crate
Crater
raterr
New Loa Hawaii Volcanoes
Volc
Zealand Nation Park
National P
19˚ N
19˚ N

160˚
6 W 159˚
9 W 158˚ W 157˚
7 W 156˚
6˚ W Ka Lae (South Point)
Point 155˚˚ W
The Hawaiian Islands

T H E B E S T B E AC H E S THE BEST OF OAHU

1
3
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