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Analyzing the Effect of Spinning Process Variables on Draw Frame Blended

Cotton Mélange Yarn Quality

Article in Journal of the Institution of Engineers (India): Chemical Engineering Division · June 2018
DOI: 10.1007/s40034-017-0109-9

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J. Inst. Eng. India Ser. E
https://doi.org/10.1007/s40034-017-0109-9

ORIGINAL CONTRIBUTION

Analyzing the Effect of Spinning Process Variables on Draw

Frame Blended Cotton Mélange Yarn Quality
Suchibrata Ray1 • Anindya Ghosh2 • Debamalya Banerjee3

Received: 6 July 2017 / Accepted: 9 November 2017

Ó The Institution of Engineers (India) 2017

Abstract An investigation has been made to study the Keywords Cotton mélange yarn  Draw frame blending 
effect of important spinning process variables namely Spinning speed  Twist multiplier 
shade depth, ring frame spindle speed and yarn twist Box and Behnken design  Imperfections  Shade depth
multiplier (TM) on various yarn quality parameters like
unevenness, strength, imperfection, elongation at break and
hairiness index of draw frame blended cotton mélange Introduction
yarn. Three factors Box and Behnken design of experiment
has been used to conduct the study. The quadratic regres- Off late various types of fancy yarns are being manu-
sion model is used to device the statistical inferences about factured by textile industry using different techniques. The
sensitivity of the yarn quality parameters to the different market share of fancy yarn over conventional yarn is
process variables. The response surfaces are constructed increasing day by day. Some decorative discontinuity or
for depicting the geometric representation of yarn quality interruption in either yarn structure or colour or both are
parameters plotted as a function of process variables. introduced deliberately with the intention of producing an
Analysis of the results show that yarn strength of draw enhanced aesthetic effect, are known as fancy yarns. Gong
frame blended cotton mélange yarn is significantly affected and Wright [1] mentioned that the fancy yarns are the big
by shade depth and TM. Yarn unevenness is affected by classification of yarns that are being used as those having
shade depth and ring frame spindle speed. Yarn imper- something special than conventional yarn. Among fancy
fection level is mainly influenced by the shade depth and yarns, the fiber dyed mélange yarn is known for its
spindle speed. The shade depth and yarn TM have shown attractive colour and textured appearance. Mélange yarn is
significant impact on yarn hairiness index. a type of spun yarn made from two or more fibers groups
with different colours. Firstly, the fibers are dyed and then
blended with other grey fibers to spin mélange yarn, thus
it is reversing the process of the traditional yarn forma-
& Suchibrata Ray tion. Mixing of fibers with different colours could be done
raysuchi@yahoo.co.in
either in blow room at the beginning of the spinning
Anindya Ghosh preparation or by feeding coloured sliver and grey sliver
anindya.textile@gmail.com
to the draw frame. Depending upon the stage of mixing,
Debamalya Banerjee mélange yarn is classified as either blow room blended or
debamalya_banerjee@rediffmail.com
draw frame blended mélange yarns. Behera et al. [2]
1
Government College of Engineering and Textile Technology, found that the mélange yarn properties are significantly
Serampore 712201, West Bengal, India influenced by blending methods and blending stages. Koo
2
Government College of Engineering and Textile Technology, et al. [3] pointed out that the fiber damage during dyeing
Berhampore 742101, West Bengal, India process degrades the physical properties of the speciality
3
Department of Production Engineering, Jadavpur University, yarn. During fiber dyeing process cotton fibers entangle at
Kolkata 700032, India a greater extent and hence subsequent intense mechanical

123
 J. Inst. Eng. India Ser. E

process involved during yarn manufacturing leads to more illustrates the process flow chart for dyed fiber preparation.
fiber damage, thereby making the mélange yarn manu- At first, Mixing Bale Opener was used for opening of 100%
facturing process more difficult [4, 5]. An investigation dyed cotton fibers. Water with antistatic oil was sprayed
made by Selvan and Raghunathan [6] confirmed that there over opened dyed cotton fiber during layering at mixing
is a reduction in strength and length of fibers after dyeing, bin. Then the mixing was conditioned for 24 h before
drying, opening and carding stages of mélange yarn processing through blow room and carding. Subsequently,
manufacturing. Ishtiaque and Das [7] observed that each the carded sliver was processed at draw frame to produce
stages of mechanical processing consistently deteriorate levelled 100% dyed sliver.
the dyed fiber length and related parameters at rotor The process flow chart for grey fiber preparation is
spinning process. Memon et al. [8] noted that optimization shown in Fig. 2. The grey cotton bales were layered under
of cotton fiber dyeing parameters is important for better bale plucker and processed through blow room, card and
mélange yarn quality. Zou [9] studied the effect of pro- comber. The combed grey sliver was then drawn through
cess variables on the properties of air vortex spun mél- the draw frame to produce levelled grey sliver.
ange yarn made from viscose fibers and observed that the The blending of dyed and grey slivers was done at
vortex mélange yarn quality is largely affected by yarn blending draw frame. The blended slivers were then pro-
delivery speed, yarn count and nozzle pressure. Regar cessed through the breaker draw frame, finisher draw
et al. [10] reported that the compact mélange yarn frame, speed frame and ring frame to produce ‘draw frame
exhibited better mass uniformity, strength and elongation, blended mélange yarn’. Figure 3 schematically represents
less hairiness and coefficient of friction compared to the blending of dyed and grey slivers at blending draw
conventional ring spun cotton mélange yarn. Karim et al. frame and flow chart of the subsequent processes for pro-
[11] made a comparison of properties of ring spun and ducing mélange yarn of 40% shade depth. The dyed sliver
rotor spun cotton mélange yarns and observed less loss of count and grey sliver count were determined as per
mechanical properties of ring spun mélange yarn than that required shade %. In case of mélange yarn production, the
of rotor spun mélange yarn. percentage of dyed fiber in the mixture is commonly ter-
A survey of literature reveals that there is hardly any med as shade percentage or shade depth (%). As an
report on the process parameters optimization of cotton example, if a yarn is to be produced with 60% grey cotton
mélange yarn manufacturing. Even no study has been fiber and 40% dyed cotton fiber then the shade depth for
reported on the effect of individual and interactive factors that yarn is 40%.
encompassing raw material and spinning process parameters Three controlled factors, namely shade depth (%), ring
on the draw frame blended mélange yarn qualities. There- frame spindle speed (rpm) and twist multiplier (TM) were
fore, this study is undertaken to analyze the effect of raw chosen and three levels were selected for each factor.
material (dyed fiber % in the mixing), spinning process Conventional ring spinning system was used to prepare
variable (yarn twist multiplier) and productivity (spindle rpm yarn samples according to the experimental plan of
of ring frame) on the properties of draw frame blended cotton Box and Behnken [12] design of experiment as shown in
mélange yarn using Box and Behnken design of experiment. Table 1. The controlled factors X1, X2 and X3 correspond to
shade depth (%), spindle speed (rpm) and twist multiplier
(TM) respectively. The total number of yarn samples
Experimental produced was 15. The actual values of the controlled fac-
tors corresponding to their coded levels are shown in
Materials and Yarn Samples Preparation Table 2.

Grey and black dyed combed Sankar 6 cotton fibers have

been used to produce 20’s Ne mélange yarns. Figure 1

Fig. 1 The process flow

chart for dyed fiber preparation

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J. Inst. Eng. India Ser. E

Fig. 2 The process flow

chart for grey fiber preparation

Fig. 3 The blending of dyed

Levelled Dyed
and grey sliver at blending draw
Sliver (100%) of
frame and flow chart of the
subsequent processes 4.92 Ktex

Blending Draw Frame Breaker Draw Finisher Draw

3 ends dyed + 5 ends grey Frame Frame

Combed grey
coon sliver of
4.43 Ktex Speed Frame

Ring Frame

Arrangement of dyed and grey slivers at blending draw frame

Table 1 Experimental plan for preparation of draw frame blended Table 2 Actual values corresponding to coded levels
mélange yarn samples
Coded Actual value
Combination Shade depth Spindle speed Yarn TM level
no. (%) (rpm) (TPI/Ne0.5) Shade depth Spindle speed Yarn TM
(%) (X1) (rpm) (X2) (TPI/Ne0.5)
1 -1 -1 0 (X3)
2 1 -1 0
-1 10 12,500 3.5
3 -1 1 0
0 40 13,500 3.7
4 1 1 0
?1 70 14,500 3.9
5 -1 0 -1
6 1 0 -1
7 -1 0 1 combed fiber, dyed combed fiber and dyed fibers after
8 1 0 1 processing through carding were subjected to testing for
9 0 -1 -1 their length and strength parameters in HVI 900 and Bare
10 0 1 -1 Sorter instruments. The yarn samples were evaluated for
11 0 -1 1 yarn unevenness (U %), imperfections (IPI), hairiness
12 0 1 1 index (HI), strength (RKM) and breaking elongation (%).
13 0 0 0 Capacitance based evenness tester USTER 4 was used to
14 0 0 0 examine yarn U %, IPI and HI. The yarn withdrawal
15 0 0 0 speed and testing time were maintained at 400 m/min and
1 min respectively for testing. For each of 15 yarn types,
10 readings were taken for measuring the average U %,
Testing IPI and HI. The tensile properties of yarns were tested by
Uster Tensojet using the specimen test length of 500 mm,
All the fiber and yarn samples were kept in standard extension rate of 400 m/min and pre-tension of 0.5
atmospheric condition for 24 h before testing. The grey cN/tex. Average yarn strength and breaking elongation

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 J. Inst. Eng. India Ser. E

Table 3 Results of draw fame blended mélange yarn (20’s Ne) properties
Combination no. Unevenness (U %) Strength (g/tex) Elongation at break (%) Imperfection per km (IPI) Hairiness index (HI)

1 8.30 19.80 4.37 27.50 4.08

2 9.47 17.02 4.35 60.30 5.31
3 8.26 21.20 4.80 29.80 4.17
4 9.42 17.92 4.42 56.00 4.96
5 8.21 20.81 5.10 28.10 4.04
6 9.26 17.86 5.01 52.80 5.16
7 8.50 19.87 4.55 31.50 4.12
8 9.57 17.38 4.70 67.00 5.21
9 8.96 17.72 4.34 36.50 4.60
10 9.16 19.37 4.44 37.00 4.24
11 9.57 18.68 4.25 47.60 4.39
12 9.49 19.13 4.13 49.80 4.23
13 9.35 18.08 4.08 44.00 4.31
14 9.21 18.82 4.35 43.00 4.35
15 9.36 18.60 4.34 52.30 4.36

were estimated for each type of yarn sample based on the model term is less than 0.05 then that model term is
1000 tests. significant, indicating statistical significance at 95% con-
fidence level.
Table 5 illustrates the fitted quadratic regression models
Results and Discussion along with the coefficient of determination (R2), mean
accuracy of the fitted model, beta coefficient (b) and per-
The experimental values of yarn unevenness (U %), centage contribution of the significant terms for different
strength (RKM), elongation at break (%), imperfections yarn quality parameters. In the fitted models, only the
(IPI) and hairiness index (HI) of draw frame blended regression coefficients which are significant at the 95%
mélange yarn are tabulated in Table 3. The response sur- confidence level are taken into account. The coefficient of
face equations of the yarn quality parameters were derived determination is a measure of the proportion of variability
from the experimental data using MATLAB coding. The in the response variable that is explained by the model. The
estimated regression coefficients and p-values of model beta coefficients are the estimates resulting from an anal-
terms for different response variables are shown in Table 4. ysis carried out on the variables that have been standard-
A negative sign of regression coefficient indicates that the ized by subtracting their respective means and dividing by
value of response variable decreases with the correspond- their standard deviations. Standardization of the coeffi-
ing increase of factor value and vice versa. If the p value of cients appraises the strength of independent variable for

Table 4 Estimated regression coefficients (Coeff) and p-values of model term for different response variables
Model term Unevenness (U %) Yarn strength (g/tex) Elongation at break (%) Imperfection (IPI) Hairiness index (HI)
Coeff p value Coeff p value Coeff p value Coeff p value Coeff p value

Constant 9.306 0.000 18.500 0.000 4.256 0.000 46.433 0.000 4.340 0.000
X1 0.556 0.00001 - 1.437 0.0002 - 0.042 0.495 14.900 0.00006 0.528 0.000
X2 0.192 0.001 - 0.087 0.587 - 0.157 0.041 5.187 0.008 - 0.011 0.696
X3 0.003 0.909 0.550 0.015 0.060 0.346 0.087 0.945 - 0.097 0.016
X21 0.005 0.914 0.115 0.613 0.060 0.495 2.700 0.179 - 0.007 0.853
X22 - 0.002 0.957 - 0.125 0.584 - 0.090 0.321 - 1.650 0.384 - 0.110 0.035
X23 - 0.070 0.176 - 0.300 0.219 - 0.055 0.531 0.425 0.816 0.050 0.251
X1X2 - 0.427 0.0002 0.370 0.157 0.389 0.006 - 0.454 0.811 0.278 0.001
X1X3 0.005 0.911 0.110 0.642 0.194 0.071 - 1.129 0.558 0.014 0.745
X2X3 - 0.017 0.727 0.115 0.627 - 0.161 0.117 - 2.579 0.212 0.011 0.790

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J. Inst. Eng. India Ser. E

Table 5 Response surface equation of various yarn quality parameters of mélange yarn
Yarn quality Response surface equation R2 Mean Beta coefficient of Percentage contribution of
parameters accuracy significant terms significant terms (%)
(%)

Unevenness (U 9.31 ? 0.55X1 ? 0.19X2 - 0.43X21 0.98 99.42 b (X1) = 0.84 C (X1) = 52.57
%) b (X2) = 0.29 C (X2) = 18.19
b (X21) = - 0.44 C (X21) = 27.52
Strength 18.5 - 1.43X1 ? 0.55X3 0.90 97.81 b (X1) = - 0.89 C (X1) = 65.41
(g/tex) b (X3) = 0.34 C (X3) = 25.02
Elongation at 4.25 - 0.15X2 ? 0.39X21 0.61 96.52 b (X2) = - 0.40 C (X2) = 22.68
break (%) b (X21) = 0.67 C (X21) = 38.04
Imperfection 46.43 ? 14.9X1 ? 5.18X2 0.94 91.81 b (X1) = 0.92 C (X1) = 69.67
(IPI) b (X2) = 0.32 C (X2) = 24.26
Hairiness index 4.34 ? 0.52X1 - 0.09X3 - 0.11X1X3 ? 0.27X21 0.98 99.15 b (X1) = 0.91 C (X1) = 58.27
(HI) b (X3) = - 0.17 C (X3) = 10.74
b (X1X3) = - 0.13 C (X1X3) = 8.57
b (X21) = 0.33 C (X21) = 20.85

determining the response variable in the find models, when influence on yarn unevenness. Basically yarn unevenness is
the variables are measured in different units of measure- strongly dependent upon the drafting rather than twisting.
ment. The percentage contribution of the i-th significant As twist is applied after the final drafting process in ring
controlled factor (Ci) can be estimated from the following frame, it has no significant influence on the yarn uneven-
equation: ness. It can be observed from Fig. 4 that yarn unevenness
increases with the increase of shade depth. The change in
surface characteristics of dyed cotton fiber leads to more
jbi j
Ci ð%Þ ¼  100 ð1Þ fiber entanglement and higher fiber to fiber friction causing
P
k
processing difficulties of dyed cotton in spinning. The
jbi j
i¼1 problem is more intensified while the amount of dyed fiber
where bi the beta coefficient of the i-th significant con- in the mixture increases. Opening difficulties while pro-
trolled factor and k is the total number of significant con- cessing more dyed fiber in the mixture lead to uneven
trolled factors. movement of fiber cluster in the drafting area. Cross sec-
It is evident from the Table 5 that invariably for each tional mass variation occurs due to increased erratic
case higher value of R2 and higher mean accuracy sub- movement of fibers during drafting and eventually it results
stantiate a good fit of response surface equations to the into more yarn unevenness. It is also observed from Fig. 4
experimental data. From the values of percentage contri- that there is only a slight increase of yarn unevenness with
bution shown in Table 5 it is observed that shade depth is the increase of spindle speed. More rubbing action of yarn
most influencing factor among all the three factors for with the metallic part in the ring frame due to higher
mélange yarn quality parameters. This may be ascribed to spindle speed may cause a slight increase in yarn
the fact that the percentage change in shade depth from the unevenness. From the Table 5, it is noted that the contri-
lower to the upper level is 600% (from 10 to 70%), bution of spindle speed for the range from 12,500 to 14,500
whereas, that for spindle speed and TM are 16% (from on yarn unevenness is only 18.19%, which is significantly
12,500 to 14,500 rpm) and 11.43% (from 3.5 to 3.9) lower than that of shade depth. Hence, the influence of
respectively. spindle speed on yarn irregularity is much lower than the
shade depth.
Yarn Unevenness (U %)
Yarn Strength (g/tex)
The response surface equation of draw frame blended
mélange yarn unevenness is given in Table 5 and Fig. 4 Table 5 shows the response surface equation of draw frame
depicts the corresponding response surface and contour blended cotton mélange yarn strength and the corre-
diagram. It is apparent from the response surface equation sponding response surface and contour diagram are illus-
that the TM in range from 3.5 to 3.9, has no significant trated in Fig. 5. It is evident from Fig. 5 that yarn strength

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 J. Inst. Eng. India Ser. E

0.8

10 0.6

0.4
9.5
8.9
9.1
0.2 8.71 9.29

Spindle rpm
8.52
U(%)

9
9.49
0
9.49
8.5 -0.2

-0.4
8
1
-0.6
0.5 1
0 0.5 -0.8
0
-0.5 -0.5 -1
Spindle rpm -1 -1 -1 -0.8 -0.6 -0.4 -0.2 0 0.2 0.4 0.6 0.8 1
Shade depth (%)
Shade depth (%)

(a) (b)
Fig. 4 Response surface and contour plot of yarn unevenness as a function of shade depth and spindle rpm. a Response surface plot, b contour
plot

1
20
0.8
21
18.7 17.8
0.6
20
Yarn strength (g/tex)

0.4
TM ( TPI / Ne 0.5 )

19
0.2

18 0

17 -0.2
19.6 17
16 -0.4
1
-0.6 19.2 18.3
0.5 1 17.4
0 0.5 -0.8
0
-0.5 -0.5
-1
-1 -1 -1 -0.8 -0.6 -0.4 -0.2 0 0.2 0.4 0.6 0.8 1
TM ( TPI / Ne 0.5 ) Shade depth (%)
Shade depth (%)

(a) (b)
Fig. 5 Response surface and contour plot of yarn strength as a function of shade depth and TM (TPI/Ne0.5). a Response surface plot, b contour
plot

reduces with the increase of shade depth (%) which may be combed dyed fiber and dyed fiber after processing through
ascribed to the higher proportion of weak dyed cotton fiber blow room and carding. It is clearly evident from Table 6
content in the yarn cross section. Chemical processing that dyeing of cotton fiber causes 37.3% loss of fiber
causes strength loss of cellulosic cotton fiber and that drop bundle strength. Furthermore, the processing of dyed fiber
in dyed fiber strength is reflected into yarn strength. In in the blow room and card causes around 20% reduction of
addition to that, mechanical processing causes more dam- fiber bundle strength. It is also observed from the Bare
age to dyed cotton fiber resulting more short fiber gener- Sorter analysis of Table 6 that there is an increase of 36.2%
ation. Shorter length fiber contributes less towards the yarn short fiber content (by number) after processing of dyed
strength. Table 6 depicts the HVI and Bare Sorter results of fiber in the blow room and card. It is also apparent form
fiber strength and length parameters of combed grey fiber, Fig. 5 that yarn strength increases with the TM in the

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J. Inst. Eng. India Ser. E

Table 6 Fiber quality parameters

Material HVI test results Bare sorter analysis
Length (mm) Bundle strength (g/tex) Short fibre index (SFI) Effective length (mm) Short fiber content (%)

Grey combed fiber 27.59 32.6 6.6 33 10.32

Dyed combed fiber 27.47 20.43 6.7 33 10.73
Carded dyed fiber 26.71 16.37 8.5 32 14.62

present experimental set up. Fiber-to-fiber cohesion break varies within a narrow range with the change of
increases by increased surface contact with increase of shade depth. In this study the yarn elongation has not been
twist and thereby augmenting the yarn strength. Table 5 affected by TM within the experimental set up. This may
shows that the contributions of shade depth and TM on be ascribed to the more number of draw frame passages
yarn strength are 65.41 and 25.02% respectively. No sig- used to produce the draw frame blended mélange yarn.
nificant impact of spindle speed on yarn strength is More number of draw frame passages enables better fiber
observed within the present experimental set up. straightening which leads to lower yarn elongation. Thus
the reduction in yarn elongation due to fiber straightening
Yarn Elongation at Break (%) is balanced by the possible improvement in yarn elongation
due to increase of yarn twist.
The response surface equation for yarn elongation at break
is given in Table 5. Figure 6 illustrates the effect of shade Yarn Imperfection (IPI)
depth and spindle speed on yarn elongation at break for
draw frame blended mélange yarn. From the Table 5 and Response surface equation of mélange yarn IPI is shown in
Fig. 6 it is observed that yarn elongation at break decreases Table 5. Figure 7 illustrates the effect of shade depth and
with the increase of spindle speed. It is obvious that at spindle speed on yarn IPI. It is manifested from the Fig. 7
higher spindle speed twisting phenomenon occurs at higher that the yarn IPI increases with the increase of shade depth
spinning tension which causes more straightening of fibers and spindle speed. Opening and processing difficulties
while they are emerging out from the front roller nip and associated with mélange yarn manufacturing causes more
resulting in a reduction in yarn breaking elongation. It is dyed fiber damage and resulting reduction in effective
also observed from the Fig. 6 that the yarn elongation at length of fibers. When the dyed sliver containing more

0.8 4.18
5
4.26
0.6 4.49
4.8
0.4 4.33
Elongation (%)

4.6
0.2 4.57 4.41
Spindle rpm

4.4 0

4.2 -0.2 4.65

4 -0.4
1
0.5 1
-0.6 4.73 4.49
4.57
0.5
0 -0.8 4.65
0
-0.5 4.73
-0.5
-1
Spindle rpm -1 -1 -1 -0.8 -0.6 -0.4 -0.2 0 0.2 0.4 0.6 0.8 1
Shade depth (%)
Shade depth (%)

(a) (b)
Fig. 6 Response surface and contour plot of yarn elongation at break as a function of shade depth and spindle rpm. a Response surface plot,
b contour plot

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 J. Inst. Eng. India Ser. E

0.8
5.5
0.6
4.22
0.4
Hairiness Index

5 4.36

TM ( TPI / Ne 0.5 )
0.2
4.5
0
4.5 4.65
-0.2
4.79
-0.4
4 4.93
1
-0.6
0.5 1
0.5 5.07
0 -0.8
0 5.21
-0.5 -0.5
-1
0.5 -1 -1 -1 -0.8 -0.6 -0.4 -0.2 0 0.2 0.4 0.6 0.8 1
TM ( TPI / Ne ) Shade depth (%)
Shade depth (%)

(a) (b)
Fig. 8 Response surface and contour plot of yarn hairiness index as a function of shade depth and TM (TPI/Ne0.5). a Response surface plot,
b contour plot

short fiber due to fiber damage blended with grey combed higher spindle speed. From Table 5, it is evident that the
sliver at draw frame, it may cause higher drafting wave contributions of shade depth and spindle speed on yarn
resulting more thick and thin places in the yarn. In addition imperfection are 69.67 and 24.26% respectively. Yarn TM
to that the opening difficulties of dyed cotton fiber at blow was found to have no significant influence on the yarn IPI.
room and carding causes more fiber entanglement, which in
turn generates higher number of fibrous neps in the yarn. Yarn Hairiness Index (HI)
As the spindle speed increases the rubbing action between
yarn surface and thread guide, balloon control ring and ring Table 5 shows the response surface equation of mélange
traveller is more. Due to increased rubbing longer pro- yarn hairiness. Figure 8 depicts the influence of shade
truding fibers of the yarn surface get rolled up and gener- depth and yarn TM on yarn HI. It is observed that yarn HI
ates neps and thick places. This leads to more yarn IPI at increases significantly with the increase of shade depth. It

0.8 60.8

70 0.6
55
60 0.4

49.3
0.2
Spindle rpm

50
IPI

0 43.6
40
-0.2
30 37.8
-0.4
20 32.1
1 -0.6
0.5 1
0 0.5 -0.8
0
-0.5 -0.5 -1
Spindle rpm -1 -1 -1 -0.8 -0.6 -0.4 -0.2 0 0.2 0.4 0.6 0.8 1
Shade depth (%)
Shade depth (%)

(a) (b)
Fig. 7 Response surface and contour plot of yarn IPI as a function of shade depth and spindle rpm. a Response surface plot, b contour plot

123
J. Inst. Eng. India Ser. E

is obvious from the Table 6 that the opening difficulty of achieving better mélange yarn quality, especially for darker
dyed fiber during mechanical processing at blow room and shades. Although higher yarn TM makes the productivity
card causes more fiber damage and high short fiber gen- level a limiting factor, but it helps in achieving better
eration. The higher short fibers content increases the mélange yarn quality in terms of its strength and hairiness
number of protruding fibers in the yarn surface. Hence, index.
yarn HI increases as the shade becomes darker. From the
Fig. 8 it is also observed that the yarn HI reduces with the
increase of yarn TM. Higher level of twist improves the
binding of fibers in the yarn body which curbs the presence References
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explained in the following lines. At higher spindle speed blending methods and blending stages on properties of mélange
due to intense rubbing action, the longer hairs of weak yarn. Indian J. Fiber Text. Res. 22(6), 84–88 (1997)
3. J.-G. Koo, J.-W. Park, S.-K. An, Properties of speciality yarns
dyed fiber either get entangled and become fibrous neps or based on raw and dyed cotton. Text. Res. J. 73, 26–30 (2003)
get broken and cause higher fluff generation in ring frame 4. H.S. Hanumanth Naik, P.N. Bhat, Production of Mélange yarns—
section. Therefore, an increase in small hairs due to rub- a review. Manmade Text. India 51(5), 161–165 (2008)
bing action is compensated by reduction in long hairs. Also 5. A.R. Moghassem, Damaging of dyed cotton fibers with direct dye
in spinning processes and its effect on the properties of cotton
this phenomenon may be a reason for higher fluff genera- mélange yarn. Int. J. Eng. Trans. B Appl. 20(2), 203–210 (2007)
tion in ring frame section while manufacturing cotton 6. M.T. Selvan, K. Raghunathan, Effect of preparatory process on
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Res. 29(12), 477–479 (2004)
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face characteristics and drop in strength of cotton fibers
after dyeing make the productivity level a limiting factor in

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