National Institute of Fashion Technology

Bachelor of Fashion Technology (2022-2026)

Department of Fashion Technology

Apparel Internship Report

Mentored by :
Associate Prof. Ms. Aboli Naik

Submitted by:
Ananya Vatsa (BFT/22/135)
Likitha Desetti (BFT/22/942)
Vaishnavi Chaudhari (BFT/22/46)
National Institute of Fashion Technology
Apparel Internship Report
Gokaldas Exports Ltd.

Bachelor of Fashion Technology

Submitted by:
Ananya Vatsa (BFT/22/135)
Likitha Desetti (BFT/22/942)
Vaishnavi Chaudhari (BFT/22/46)

Under the guidance of

Associate Prof. Ms. Aboli Naik

Department of Fashion Technology

National Institute of Fashion Technology (Mumbai)
 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

We would like to express our sincere gratitude to everyone who supported us during our 8 week
internship at Gokaldas Exports Ltd. This experience has been invaluable in understanding the
garment industry and we are truly appreciative of the opportunity to learn from such a reputable
organization. Firstly, we extend our sincere thanks Gokaldas Exports Ltd., for providing us with
this invaluable opportunity.
We are deeply grateful to our industry mentor, Mr. Sankha Dolui for his support, guidance and
encouragement throughout this 8-weeks internship and making it a success and we learned so
much under his mentorship.
We would also like to thank our internal mentor, Associate Prof Aboli Naik, for providing us
with continuous support and mentoring. Her advice and guidance were crucial in helping us
make the most of this internship experience.
The staff of each department at Gokaldas Exports played a significant role in our learning
process and we thank them for making this internship a great learning experience.
CERTIFICATES
Table of Contents
Sr no. Contents Page no.

1 Abstract 8

2 Introduction 9

Company Profile
3 About The Company 10
About The Unit

4 Learning Outcomes and Project 13

Chapter 1: Fabric and Trims Store

Fabric Store
Fabric Relaxation 14
Performance and Testing Lab
Trim Store

Chapter 2: CAD Department 25

Chapter 3 Spreading & Cutting Department

Spreading
Cutting 26
Fusing
Supermarket Area

Chapter 4: Heat Transfer Printing 31

Chapter 5: Embroidery 33

Chapter 6: Sewing Department

Sewing 37
Metal Detection

Chapter 7: CTPAT 40

Chapter 8: Industrial Engineering 42

Chapter 9: Maintenance Department

Performance Tracking
45
Needle Maintenance Protocol
Central Maintenance Department (CMD)

Chapter 10: Quality Department

47
Traffic Light System
 Chapter 11: HR Department 49

Chapter 12: Merchanising & Product Development

Merchandising
52
Product Development
Sourcing Procedure

Chapter 13: Value-added Services

Washing Department
Printing Department 54
Poly-filling
Poly-wadding

Chapter 14 : Sustainability 58

Chapter 15 : Project 59

5 Appendices 65

6 Conclusion 112
List of Figures

Sr no. Figure Page no.

1 Organisation Chart 14

2 Fabric Store 16

3 Picture of Rolll-to-Roll relaxation machine 15

4 Shrinkage Test Template 17

5 Spirality Test

6 Trim Store 18

7 Box to store trims 19

8 Trim Card 19

9 Material Requisition Sheet (MRS) 19

10 Trims Inspection Card 21

11 Plotter 22

12 Lay Sheet 24

13 Straight Knife cutting machine 25

14 Edge cutter 25

15 CNC Cutter 25

16 Process flow of spreading and cutting department 26

17 Bundle Label 27

18 Laser light for placement of print on the panel 29

19 Carbon test: Even pressure distribution 30

20 Carbon test: Even pressure distribution 30

21 Embroidery Machine 31

22 Design details sheet 32

 23 Marking of embroidery location 32

24 Marking the starting point of the embrodery 33

25 Sorting section 34

26 Process flow of embroidery department 35

27 Line-wise bundles from supermarket 36

28 Quality inspection 36

29 End table check point 37

30 Sample displayed at the end of the line 37

31 Metal detector gun 37

32 Metal detector machine 38

33 Flow Process

34 Traffic light system (TLS) cards 47

35 Draft layout 61

36 Visual instructions English 62

37 Visual instructions Kannada 62

39 Display on workstation 1 63

40 Display on workstation 2 63

List of Tables

Sr No. Table Page No.

1 Fabric Store Workflow 17

2 Trims Inspection Checklist 24

 8

Abstract

This internship report provides an overview of our 8-week internship experience and learning at
Gokaldas Exports Ltd., a leading garment manufacturer. The report covers detailed information
about the company and documents each step of the garment production process.
Throughout the internship, we gained hands-on experience in various departments, including
Fabric Storage, Sampling, Spreading, Cutting, Fusing, Embroidery, Sewing, Finishing,
Maintenance, Packing, Industrial Engineering, and Dispatch.
With the support and expert guidance from our industry mentor and the team at Gokaldas
Exports, we were able to delve deep into the practical aspects of each department. This hands-on
experience was invaluable in bridging the gap between theoretical knowledge and real-world
application, enabling us to grasp the complexities of the garment industry with greater clarity.
Beyond the technical skills we gained, we also came to truly appreciate the teamwork and
collaboration that are vital to maintaining quality and efficiency in production.
This experience didn’t just broaden our understanding of the garment manufacturing process it
also shaped our perspective on the importance of working together toward a common goal. It has
been a meaningful chapter in our professional journey, giving us the knowledge and confidence
we need to take the next steps in our careers with a deeper sense of purpose and readiness.
 9

Introduction

The modern garment industry operates as an intricate global network, connecting designers, raw
material suppliers, manufacturers, and distributors in a highly efficient business ecosystem.
Within this landscape, India’s apparel sector has established a significant international reputation,
recognised for producing goods that are well-crafted and durable. This is fueled by several
converging factors, including a market shift towards branded apparel, the rapid expansion of the
retail sector, rising consumer disposable incomes and strategic government initiatives designed
to bolster textile exports. Together, these elements have fostered a dynamic investment climate
within the country.
The practical basis for this report is an extensive industrial training program undertaken at Euro
Clothing Company-1, a unit of Gokaldas Exports Ltd. in Bangalore. This immersive experience
provided a detailed, operational understanding of the end-to-end garment manufacturing process.
The training encompassed a comprehensive tour through the facility’s departments, beginning
with order intake at the merchandising department and concluding with the final dispatch of
finished product. This report has key observations and technical knowledge acquired during this
internship period.
 10

About the Company

Gokaldas Exports Ltd., headquartered in Bangalore, is one of India’s foremost apparel

manufacturing and export companies. Established in 1979 by Jhamandas H. Hinduja, the
company has evolved from a small partnership into a major player in the global apparel industry.
Today, it operates a wide network of manufacturing facilities across Karnataka, Tamil Nadu,
Andhra Pradesh, and Madhya Pradesh. In 2004, it transitioned into a public limited company and
was listed on the stock exchange the following year. The Hinduja family managed the company
until 2011, though a significant turning point came earlier in 2007, when private equity firm
Blackstone acquired a controlling stake.

Gokaldas Exports has continued to expand its global footprint, most recently through
acquisitions such as the Dubai-based ATRACO Group and Matrix Design and Industries Private
Limited in 2024. Now owned by public shareholders, the company remains a key player in
international markets.

The company specialises in a diverse product line, including fashion wear, outerwear, casuals,
sportswear, and bottoms. It has earned a strong reputation worldwide for producing high-quality
garments with a strong focus on sustainability, safety, and compliance with global health and
environmental standards. Gokaldas Exports operates 22 state-of-the-art factories, a processing
mill, and several specialised units, including sewing and embroidery facilities, a high-capacity
printing unit, and zero liquid discharge laundries.

Sustainability is central to the company’s long-term vision. Gokaldas Exports is targeting

net-zero emissions by 2045, with ambitious goals such as eliminating solid waste to landfill by
2030 and increasing the use of recycled materials in production. On the social front, the company
is committed to creating positive community impact, with corporate social responsibility (CSR)
initiatives focused on equitable employment, economic empowerment, and inclusive workplaces.
Facilities such as on-site crèches, medical centres, and affordable housing for migrant workers
reflect this commitment.

Internally, the company is structured around key departments that ensure smooth operations and
innovation across the board. These include Manufacturing, Industrial Engineering, R&D,
Technology, Logistics, Finance, Retail, and Design. Long-term partnerships with prominent
international brands such as Adidas, Gap, Old Navy, Puma, Columbia, Banana Republic, and
Superdry have cemented Gokaldas Exports’ reputation as a trusted global apparel supplier. Their
customer base spans continents, including clients in Europe, Asia, Oceania, Africa, and South
America.
 11

Euro Clothing Company - 1

About the Unit

The unit where this internship was completed was the Euro Clothing Company (ECC-1) unit of
Gokaldas Exports LTD. Established in 1987, it is one of the oldest units specialising in knitted
products, primarily for sportswear brands like Adidas, Nike, Puma, and Columbia. The garments
produced in this unit are usually exported to countries like the USA, Canada, Japan, etc. This
unit also manufactures the official Indian cricket team jersey under Gokaldas Exports' tie-up with
the BCCI.

The unit has 24 sewing lines and up to 1200 sewing machines, with a building dedicated to the
sewing department and other areas in the unit include the main factory area with fabric and trims
store, the cutting department, supermarket, the IE Department and an office area.

Other units:

●​ Triangle Apparels (TA-VI): For woven apparel

●​ Wear Craft Apparels (WCA): For both knit and woven apparel
●​ Global Garments (GG-III): For value-added services
●​ Indigo Blues (IB): Separate washing unit
●​ Sri Krishna Industries (SKI): Poly Wadding and quilting unit
 12

Figure 1: Organisation Chart

 13

LEARNING OUTCOMES AND PROJECT

 14

Chapter 1: Fabric and Trims Store

Fabric Store

Figure 2: Fabric Store

The operational workflow of the fabric store begins with the receipt of a Purchase Order (PO)
packet which is one of the many documents in the Fabric File check sheet.

Fabric File check sheet has :

●​ GE PO SHEET ●​ Relaxation Report

●​ Fabric inspection report ●​ Face Side Approval
●​ Shade Approval Card ●​ Combination Card
●​ GSM ●​ FPT
●​ Shrinkage Report ●​ Supplier Inspection Report

Following this, a Goods Dispatch Instruction (GDI) is released for the specific factory, acting as
the official directive to collect the required fabric from the central warehouse. Upon arrival, the
fabric undergoes a rigorous preparation and inspection process. Shade bands and CSV (Color
Shade Variation) blankets are prepared to categorize the material, and a comprehensive fabric
inspection is conducted. All roll-wise details including quantity, width, shade, and shrinkage data
are meticulously updated in the fabric statement.
 15

Next, the bales are opened, and the quantity and width of each roll are physically verified against
the Goods Delivery Note (GDN). Once confirmed, the rolls are stored in a designated racking
system, with each roll assigned a unique barcode for easy identification and tracking. As per
style requirements, fabric relaxing is performed, and this information is updated on the roll-wise
sticker. To issue fabric for production, a lay sheet is prepared based on priority, strategically
selecting specific rolls based on their precise shrinkage, shade, and width characteristics. Fabric
is then issued to the cutting department strictly according to this lay sheet. After each lot is laid, a
reconciliation is performed to check for any excess or shortage of fabric, and any deviation is
immediately reported to the Head Office (HO). Any remaining end bits are identified with their
style and roll number and moved to a dedicated recutting area for future use. Finally, upon the
completion of the entire PO, any leftover fabric is sent back to the central warehouse, guided by
an official Return to Godown report.

Step No. Activity Person Responsible Documents Used

1 Issue PO packet MPCC PO Packet, Tech Pack

2 Prodcut entry & GDI release Fabric In-charge GDI, Procut System

3 Receive & verify fabric Fabric In-charge Fabric Statement,

Invoice

4 Bale opening & shade Fabric In-charge, Bale Opening Register

review FM/QAM

5 Store rolls by width/shade Fabric In-charge Roll Tags

6 Fabric relaxation Fabric In-charge Relaxation Sticker

7 Consumption calc. & Fabric In-charge MCPR

MCPR

8 Prepare lay sheet Fabric In-charge Lay Sheet

9 Issue fabric to cutting Fabric In-charge Lay Sheet, Product

Updates
 16

10 Check excess/shortage Fabric In-charge Lay Summary

11 Store balance fabric Fabric In-charge RTG Card

12 Prepare & send FCR Fabric Auditor FCR, RTG Card

13 Move goods to CWH Fabric In-charge RTG Master Book

Table 1: Fabric Store Workflow

Fabric relaxation
This process is essential for eliminating the tension that builds up in the fabric during its
manufacturing and transportation.
During production, fabric is tightly rolled and subjected to mechanical tension. Additionally,
environmental changes such as fluctuations in humidity and temperature during transit can
further alter the fabric’s state. Cutting the fabric in this condition may lead to distortions during
sewing and post-production processes, resulting in uneven garments and fit inconsistencies.
Fabric relaxation machines or trolleys are used to address this. The machines allow the fabric to
rest in an untensioned state for a specific period, enabling it to return to its original form. By
relaxing the fabric before spreading, the factory ensures dimensional stability and improves the
overall quality of the garments.
This process is especially important for stretch or knit fabrics, as it helps maintain consistency in
garment shape and appearance.
In this unit, there are two types of fabric relaxation processes taking place:
1)​ Manual: Manual relaxation is a simple yet essential process where fabric is laid out flat
and left to rest for about 24 hours. This pause gives the material time to naturally release
any stress or tension it picked up during manufacturing or transport. To avoid creases or
folds during this stage, the fabric is spread carefully on a clean, smooth surface. It's kept
under controlled environmental conditions, allowing it to settle into its true shape and
size. This step ensures the fabric is stable and ready for accurate cutting, which is crucial
for maintaining consistency and quality in the finished garments.

2)​ Machine: Machine-based fabric relaxation is a relatively new and efficient method
increasingly adopted in the apparel industry. In this process, specialised machines
equipped with rollers, cradles, and heating elements are used to relax the fabric. The
application of heat helps to expand the fibres, which then contract upon cooling, allowing
the fabric to return to its natural state. The fabric passes through a series of rollers that
gently stretch and release it while maintaining controlled parameters such as tension,
temperature, and speed.
 17

This method offers significant advantages in terms of speed, consistency, and the ability
to handle large volumes of fabric. Unlike manual relaxation, where the fabric must rest
for 24 hours, machine relaxation follows a roll-to-roll process, allowing the fabric to be
used for cutting immediately after treatment. This not only saves time but also makes the
process highly suitable for large-scale industrial production.

Figure 3: Picture of Roll-to-Roll relaxation machine

Performance & Testing Lab

Gokaldas Exports has a centralized testing lab, accredited by various buyers where all the testing
for the performance of fabric as well as the garment is done, in the Global Garments-III unit.

Tensile and Seam Strength Test ​

Tensile strength refers to the ability of a fabric to withstand pulling forces without breaking.
Seam strength refers to the strength of the stitched areas in a garment. Both tensile strength and
seam strength are crucial for determining the overall durability and quality of garments.

The testing procedure for both tensile strength and seam strength is the same. It is conducted
using a tensile tester device, which has two jaws. The lower jaw is fixed, while the upper jaw is
movable. A fabric specimen measuring 10 x 7.5 cm is cut, with one end fixed in the lower jaw
and the other in the upper jaw. The upper jaw is then moved, and the reading is taken at the point
where the fabric yarns or seam threads begin to break.

Piling Test​
Pilling tests assess the fabric's resistance to forming small, fuzzy balls of fiber on the surface,
known as pills. These tests are crucial for determining the durability and quality of textiles.
Three types of piling tests are conducted here:

1)​ Martindale Pilling Test: This test uses a Martindale machine, where fabric samples
are rubbed against a standard abrasive surface or another fabric under controlled
conditions. The extent of pilling is then visually assessed and rated.
 18

2)​ ICI Pilling Test: Also known as the ICI Pilling Box Test, this method involves
placing fabric samples in a cork-lined box and rotating the box to simulate wear. The
pilling that results is then evaluated and rated.

3)​ Random Pilling Test: This test uses a Random Tumble Pilling Tester, where fabric
samples are tumbled inside a cylindrical chamber with cork or other abrasive materials. It
mimics random wear conditions, and the degree of pilling is visually assessed and rated.

Colour Fastness Testing​

A fabric specimen is tested along with a multi fibre fabric that contains rows of different fibers
such as wool, acrylic, polyester, nylon, cotton, and acetate.

Different methods are followed for AATCC & ISO standards. First, the washing solution is
prepared, and the specimen, washing solution, and steel balls are all added to a canister. The
canister is placed in the laundrometer, whose temperature is set to 49-45 degrees for 45 minutes.
The sample is removed, rinsed, dried, and then follows an assessment which is tested in
grayscale. Similarly, water fastness and perspiration tests are also done based on the buyer’s
requirements.

pH Test​
pH testing in garment testing involves measuring the acidity or alkalinity of fabrics and
garments. It is essential because pH levels can affect comfort, durability, and even skin reactions.
In this experiment, 250 ml water is boiled and 10 g of specimen is dipped in it. Then the water is
again boiled, this time with the specimen for 2 minutes, and then let to cool down at room
temperature. Then the water is extracted and its pH scale readings are recorded. Approval is
given based on the buyers’ requirements.

Shrinkage test​
Certain fabrics tend to shrink lengthwise/widthwise or sometimes both when they are washed.
Shrinkage can affect the overall fit of the garment once constructed and washed if not taken into
consideration. So each fabric roll undergoes shrinkage testing, where a 50x50 cm of fabric is cut
from the roll. Two types of shrinkage tests are done, one dry test to check shrinkage due to iron
steam and another wet test to check shrinkage due to printing and washing. A template is used to
mark the points on the fabric which later helps in measuring the shrink/stretch percentage. After
marking, the sides are overlocked. Here, the fabric is treated with steam, checked for
shrink/stretch, and then, mentioned in the final report.

The tolerance is ± 5% shrink/stretch is allowed on the fabrics.

 19

​
Figure 4: Shrinkage Test Template

GSM Test​
A 11.28 cm diameter circle is cut from every roll and it is tested on the GSM testing scale. This
measurement helps determine the fabric's thickness, durability, and overall quality, crucial for
ensuring consistency in production and meeting customer specifications.

Width Analysis​
In this process, both the full width and the cuttable width of each fabric roll are measured and
recorded. The cuttable width of the fabric refers to the usable width available for cutting
garments or other products from a roll or bolt of fabric, taking into account any selvage edges or
unusable areas. This measurement is considered crucial for fabric usage planning and
optimization during production processes in the garment industry.

Yarn Count Analysis​

The yarn count of the fabric is calculated in English Cotton Count (ne). The formula used here is: ​
Yarn Count (ne) = No.of threads X Length (cm) X 0.00589 (constant)​
Weight of yarn (g)

Spirality test​
Spirality in knits is just like skewing and bowing in woven, that’s why it is also known as fabric
skew or fabric torque. It is the angle between the wale line and the line perpendicular to the
course line. Spirality occurs in any fabric when the wale is not perpendicular to the course
direction. This leads to twisting in fabric from the side seam after washing. Spirality is mostly
found in single jersey knitted fabric as in rib and interlock fabric, the front loops are balanced by
the back loops.

The tolerance for spirality is also 5%.

 20

Spirality is checked in two ways:

1.​ First, in open-width form. In this, the swatch is taken and is measured lengthwise and
widthwise. Then it is washed and the shift occurring in the fabric watch is measured. The
spirality percentage is calculated by the following formula:

Figure 5. : Spirality Test

2.​ The second is done in a tubular form where the shift in the side seam is used to calculate
the spirality percentage using the same formula as mentioned above.

CSV grouping: ​
This stands for center-to-selvedge variation. It is used to group the fabric samples from different
fabric rolls. This is done so that variations in the same kind of fabric roll do not create any
problems in fit or the visual appearance of the garment. The standard procedure to check shade
variation is to cut the fabric into 5 panels, mix and match, and sew them together to observe the
difference in shade.

1 2 3 4 5

4 1 3 5 2
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Trims Store

Figure 6: Trims Store

The manager receives the Buyer’s Purchase Order (PO), based on which a master list of required
trims is prepared according to the buyer’s style, size, and brand specifications. Trims are
received at the back entry of the store and placed in a designated Quarantine Area until they
undergo a quality inspection. A quality control representative checks the trims according to
Acceptable Quality Level (AQL) standards. AQL 1.0 for brands like Adidas and Puma, and AQL
0.65 for Columbia and metal trims. The inspection includes reviewing visual standards, trim
specifications, button sizes (in ligne and centimeters), raw material shrinkage parameters, and
overall compliance through a quality audit. Upon passing inspection, a trim card is validated by
the QC representative, and trims are officially issued.

Trims are then labeled with details such as Buyer, Style, PO, Item, Color, and Size, and stored in
carts arranged across 126 racks in the trim section. These racks are organized based on buyer and
style numbers, with an Index Board providing quick reference to the location of trims based on
 22

Buyer, Style, PO, and Item. Each box also carries a board (as shown in fig. 5) indicating all
relevant trim details for easier access. Additionally, a store index box with color-coded labels is
used to reflect trim status: Green for pass, Yellow for hold, Red for reject, and Black for return to
godown (RTG). QR codes are generated and scanned into the system, logging data such as serial
numbers, buyer names, style numbers, and item details. This digital system supports the creation
of a Material Requisition Sheet (MRS), which streamlines the issuing of trims during production.
The correct sizes, quantities, and types of trims are defined using the QR code-linked data.
Materials are then issued to the feeding helpers, with unique security labels attached for
PFAS-free products. These specific trims are kept in separate, dedicated racks to ensure control,
traceability, and to avoid misuse or misplacement.
 23

Figure 9: Material Requisition Sheet (MRS)

Trim Store Checking Instructions

Every trim is checked for quantity against the Purchase Order, colour and quality against the
approved trim card

The following are the checking instructions for different types of trims received in the store

Main Label & Label defects like missing yarn, weaving defects, or stains, and
Wash Care label check if all the details are mentioned in the label

Zippers Runner logo, colour, function and size of the zipper

Eyelets Size, sharp edges, uneven colour, pull strength

Elastic Pull strength, steam and wash shrinkage, width, missing yarn, open
lycra, stains

Price Ticket Misprint, scratches, barcode damage

Button Button size, colour variation lot to lot, damages and uneven shapes

Thread Thread tex and shade number against the BOM and approved trim
card, thread defects

Table 2: Trims Inspection Checklist

 24

Figure 10: Trim Inspection Card

 25

Chapter 2: CAD Department

Figure 11: Plotter

The department handles the creation of all patterns and markers used for bulk cutting. Based on
the buyer-approved PP (pre-production) sample, patterns are developed and shared digitally via
email. A trained team member, skilled in marker-making software, receives the pattern files
along with the PP sample and the cut file. These patterns are then adjusted for fabric shrinkage to
create a size set sample. Once finalised, a lay slip is issued, and a marker is prepared for the
fabric lay in line with the lay slip instructions.

The unit uses Gerber Accumark software, and every operator receives around six months of
hands-on training to become fully proficient in using the software.

There are two plotters in use:

1.​ Prints the full marker layout on white paper for use during bulk fabric cutting.
2.​ Prints individual patterns on brown kraft paper, mainly used for template-making and
other purposes.
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Chapter 3: Spreading and Cutting Department

In this unit’s spreading and cutting department, there are 8 spreading tables and two fusing
machines. It also integrates CAD, heat transfer, and embroidery functions, streamlining the
process before sewing. Table allotment is planned based on the type of fabric and the priority of
the orders. The marker and cut plan come in from the CAD department.
The cutting procedure begins with planning, where the Cutting In-Charge reviews the Fast React
plan and collaborates with the Floor Manager to finalise the styles for cutting. Once the PO
packet is received from Head Office, the sample or pattern is reviewed by the Pattern Master for
verification. The number of fabric layers to be spread is determined based on the cut order plan.
The sampling process uses actual fabric and trims unless substitutes are approved. Sampling
cuttings are verified against original patterns, with QAM overseeing online and final quality
inspections. Once approved, the samples are recorded in the sampling register and prepared for
PPM (Pre-Production Meeting). In parallel, the CAD department prepares and verifies markers,
ensuring all style-specific details are incorporated and shrinkage adjustments are correctly
applied.
The cutting department includes 8 cutting tables, 10 straight knife cutting machines, 1 band
knife, and 2 fusing machines. Round knife cutting machines are also used when necessary,
depending on the fabric or style requirements. To ensure shade consistency and fabric behaviour,
the team refers to the fabric roll list to group rolls of the same shade and match fabrics with
similar shrinkage under a single marker. In cases where two shade groups must be spread
together, brown paper is sometimes used as a separator. Fabrics are manually spread on the tables
using two operators and a spreading stand, aligning them to the marker length. An end cutter is
used to trim one end after each layer is spread.
Operators maintain a lay sheet to record key details such as fabric shade, roll number, total
quantity, size-wise cut quantities, lay length, plies, shrinkage, and fabric required. End bits are
stored with their respective roll numbers for recutting later.
 27

Figure 12: Lay Sheet

The lay sheet and inspection report consist of:

1.​ Buyer details 8.​ Roll No.

2.​ Style 9.​ Width
3.​ Cut No. 10.​Planned lay
4.​ Plies 11.​Actual lay (to be filled by the
5.​ Lay Length spreading operator)
6.​ Fabric required 12.​End bits
7.​ Size Ratio 13.​QC Checks

The marker is placed on the lay and checked for marker length, width, face, shrinkage, grainline,
shade, etc. Once approved, it proceeds to bulk cutting. There are 5 types of cutting machines
used according to requirements:
1.​ CNC Cutter
2.​ Straight knife cutting machine
3.​ Band Knife cutting machines
4.​ Round Knife Cutting Machine
5.​ End Cutter
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Machine Maintenance

●​ Daily
○​ Check the power supply in the stabiliser (380-390 V) & air filter (6 bars).
○​ Check the lower guide bearing every working 8 hours with dried air.
○​ Clean sharpening stones every working 8 hours with Ballmer stone cleaning
spray.
○​ Clean the ventilators of CNC units and blower units.
○​ Clean the Canal filters every 8 hours.
○​ Clean the Bristle conveyor with the auto bristle cleaning system.
○​ Check the knife drive oil level & supply of oiler.
○​ Measure knife width using a vernier calliper and change from parameter setting.

●​ Weekly
○​ Look at all cables, connectors & air supply tubes for any damage.
○​ Check all drive belts & their tensions.

●​ Monthly
○​ Check the bristle band, motor, chain, and lubrication.

The process of assigning numbers to each garment piece after cutting is known as ticketing. Each
cut panel is marked with a unique ticket number. All panels belonging to a single garment are
given the same ticket number to ensure accurate matching and assembly during sewing.
After ticketing 100% of the panel inspection, defective pieces are recut according to the
requirements. Panel inspection report includes the total number of cut parts and the number of
defective parts, and the conclusions are noted in the form of a percentage and a Top-3 defects
report is made for the record.
 29

After recutting, the panels are bundled according to size, style, shade and sent to the
supermarket, where the panels are issued to the respective sewing lines against an MRS slip.

Figure 16:Process flow of spreading and cutting department

Fusing
Pieces like cuffs and collars that require fusing are sent to the fusing section by the helpers from
the cutting section. The details like type of interlinings to be used, temperature, pressure and time
to be set in the fusing machine are sent by the HO, which are chosen based on the type of fabric
and interlining used. Woven and non-woven are the two types of interlinings used.
Tests done:

●​ The machine temperature is monitored twice daily, once at 10:00 a.m. and again at 2:30
p.m., using a thermo strip. This strip is placed between the fabric and the interlining
during the fusing process. The ideal temperature is considered to be one degree below the
point at which the strip loses its white colour, indicating the optimal heat level.
●​ A Bond Strength Test is carried out to evaluate how well the interlining adheres to the
fabric. For this, the fabric is fixed to a spring balance, and the fused interlining is
 30

manually pulled apart. The pressure required to separate the layers is measured. A
standard bond strength of 2 kg is expected.

The supermarket area is where all the cut fabric pieces come after they’ve been checked and
bundled. Helpers make sure the pieces are in the right order and nothing is out of place. Each
bundle has a card with details like batch number, part name, size, and the order of the pieces in
the bundle. These bundles are placed in bins and stored on racks in the cutting supermarket,
ready to be sent to the sewing section. Every batch has a QR code so its location can be tracked
easily.

Figure 17: Bundle label

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Chapter 4: Heat Transfer Printing

In sportswear, heat transfer printing is commonly used to apply small logos or graphics on cut
garment panels before they move to the sewing line. The department is equipped with 3
single-bed and 3 multi-bed heat transfer machines, along with an automatic pickup system for
labels.

Stickers are first positioned by operators using a guiding system. An underlit table is used where
a piece of the garment pattern is aligned under the cut fabric panel. Light from below highlights
the exact placement area, helping the operator accurately place the heat transfer sticker. To
further assist in accurate placement, laser lights and mounted above the machines. These lasers
create lines for placing the design on the fabric as per the placement template.

Figure 18: Laser light for the placement of print on the panel

A detailed instruction sheet is provided for every order, mentioning:

●​ Buyer details.
●​ Style number.
●​ Type of prints.
●​ Recommended temperature, time and pressure settings.
Types of heat transfer machines:
●​ Single bed heat transfer machine: This machine has a single flat bed where larger designs
are applied. It provides ample space for accurate placement and application.
●​ Multiple-bed heat transfer machine: Designed for smaller prints, it has four smaller beds.
Pressure is applied using an air cylinder integrated into the machine.
 32

●​ Automatic pickup heat transfer machine: This system automates part of the process. The
bed moves automatically, and a robotic suction arm picks up labels from a stack and
places them accurately on the garment part.

Compressed air system: All heat transfer machines rely on compressed air to apply the required
pressure. Air is drawn in from the environment by an air compressor, filtered, and compressed to
high pressure. The compressed air is stored in an air receiver tank, located just outside the
department, which maintains consistent air pressure and supplies it to the machines through
ceiling-mounted valves.

Calibration and testing : An industrial temperature gun is used to measure the heat at the centre
and corners of the bed, ensuring even distribution

A carbon paper test is used wherein a white sheet is placed on the bed, with carbon paper on top.
When pressed, the transfer of colour shows how evenly pressure is distributed across the surface.
 33

Chapter 5: Embroidery Department

Embroidery, crucial for sportswear branding, commences at Gokaldas's ECC-I unit upon receipt
of marked cut panels from the cutting supermarket. Operators follow buyer-provided EMB
approval sheets detailing design specifics like buyer, style, and thread types.

Figure 21: Embroidery Machine

Figure 22: Design details sheet

 34

Figure 23: Marking of embroidery location

The position of the embroidery is first marked using a pattern stencil. The the starting point for
embroidery is manually marked using a needle before the cut panel is mounted on the frame. The
frame size is selected based on the dimensions of the embroidery design, with commonly used
diameters including 7 cm, 9 cm, 12 cm, 15 cm, and 18 cm. Larger frames are used for more
extensive designs to ensure proper alignment and fabric stability during stitching.

To protect the fabric from damage during the high-speed embroidery process, interlining is
applied to the embroidery area during framing.

Upon completion of the embroidery, the panels are carefully removed from the machine. Loose
threads and excess lining are trimmed, followed by a visual inspection to identify any defects
such as missing stitches, fabric puckering, or distortion of the embroidery design.

Figure 24: Marking the starting point of the embroidery

 35

Once the required number of panels has been successfully embroidered, they are returned to the
cutting supermarket for further processing. To maintain standardisation and assist machine
operators, an Embroidery Control Manual is kept accessible within the unit, along with a visual
reference board displaying samples of correctly executed embroidery.

After final inspection, all embroidered pieces are sorted into three categories:

1.​ Dispatch-ready pieces, which meet all quality standards and proceed to the next stage.​

2.​ Pass pieces, including those that were initially defective but successfully reworked.​

3.​ Rejected pieces, are either held for further rework or scrapped if the defects are
irreversible.​

Figure 25: Sorting Section

A maintenance log is maintained with specific checkpoints. The machine operator is responsible
for conducting and recording daily and weekly checks, while an electrician performs daily
inspections, and a mechanic carries out a comprehensive half-yearly maintenance.:

1.​ Daily Check (by operator) for:

a.​ Rotary Hook Set/Damage/Lubrication
b.​ Bobbin Case & Bobbin
c.​ Needle Size & Damage
 36

d.​ Machine Cleanliness

e.​ Working Table Cleanliness
f.​ Thread Tension Knob Cleanliness

2.​ Weekly Check (by operator) for:

a.​ Needle Bar/Hook Set Oiling
b.​ X&Y Axis Driving Rail Cleanliness
3.​ Monthly Check (by electrician) for:
a.​ Power Supply Box & Man Motor Drive Box Cleanliness
b.​ Step Motor Drive Cleanliness
4.​ Half Yearly Check (by Mechanic) for:
a.​ Hook Set/ Gear Box/ Trimming Can/ Chain & Apply Grease
b.​ Machines are serviced accordingly

Figure 26: Process Flow of embroidery department

 37

Chapter 6: Sewing Department

There are 24 sewing lines in this factory, named from A to X. There are 5 sewing floors named
after rivers of India:

1)​ Nandini (A-C)

2)​ Kaveri (D-F)
3)​ Tunga (G-L)
4)​ Ganga (M-R)
5)​ Kali (S-X)

The process begins with a feeding helper collecting cut panels, bundled line-wise, from the
Supermarket. Once the stitching starts the quality is monitored through in-line inspections, the
resultsfor each piece are logged on a tab (as shown in fig. 25).

Once a garment is fully assembled, it reaches end-of-line inspection checkpoint. Here each piece
is checked and sorted into bins. Garments that pass the inspection proceed to the ironing,
tagging, and folding and are packed into polybags. For immediate operator reference a
completed sample of the current style is displayed at the end of each sewing line. (fig.27).
 38

Metal Detection

After the garments are packed in a polybag, they are sent for metal detection. It ensures that
metal fragments like broken needles, pins, or other metallic objects are not present in the finished
garments, which could be a safety hazard to consumers. Garments are placed on a conveyor belt
that moves through the detector. If metal is detected, the contaminated item is removed and
checked.

Figure 31: Metal Detector Gun

 39

Figure 32: Metal detector Machine

Figure 33: Flow process

 40

Chapter 7 : CTPAT
The Customs Trade Partnership Against Terrorism (CTPAT) is a voluntary supply chain security
program led by U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP). Under the direction of the U.S.
Customs and Border Protection (CBP), the Customs Trade Partnership Against Terrorism
(CTPAT) is a voluntary supply chain security initiative. From the point of origin to the final
destination in the United States, the garment sector relies heavily on CTPAT to ensure supply
chain security. Here are a few crucial CTPAT elements for the clothing sector.

• Security Standards: CTPAT requires participating companies to implement specific security

measures and best practices to protect their supply chains from terrorism and other criminal
activities.

• Supply Chain Mapping: Companies must map their entire supply chain, identifying all the
entities involved, from raw material suppliers to manufacturers, logistics providers, and
importers.

• Risk Assessment: Regular risk assessments are required to identify and mitigate potential
security threats within the supply chain.

• Security Protocols: Implementing and maintaining security protocols, such as employee

background checks, secure packing and shipping processes, and ensuring the integrity of
containers and trailers.

• Partnership and Collaboration: CTPAT fosters collaboration between CBP and the private
sector, encouraging information sharing and best practices to enhance supply chain security.

• Validation and Verification: Participating companies are subject to periodic validations by CBP
to ensure compliance with CTPAT requirements. This includes on-site visits and audits.

In our industry, there are several critical checkpoints that must be completed to ensure
compliance with CTPAT standards before goods are sent for shipment:

• Security Inspection: During the loading process, security personnel use mirrors to inspect the
underside of vehicles for any explosives or other unauthorized items.

• Vehicle and Driver Verification: Detailed information about the vehicle and driver, including
the driver’s identification, insurance documents, and referral letters, is thoroughly checked and
recorded.

• Leakage Test: Water is poured over the container to check for any leaks, ensuring the integrity
of the container before shipment.
 41

• Container Integrity: The container must be fully sealed, with no visible joints or areas that are
not fully concealed. This includes ensuring that no welding or other visible modifications
compromise the container's security.

• Loading Documentation: Photos are taken at four key stages of the loading process to
document that it is completed correctly. After 25% of the packages are loaded, a photo is taken,
and this is repeated at each subsequent 25% stage. Once one side of the
 42

Chapter 8: Industrial Engineering Department

The Industrial Engineering IE department is crucial to any garment manufacturing unit, acting as
its central support system. It oversees and monitors the performance of all other production
departments. The IE team is responsible for providing technical solutions to production issues
and continually strives to improve productivity and efficiency across various departments. In this
particular unit, the IE department comprises 10 members who are solely responsible for all
pre-production activities (PPA).

Major focus points of the IE department are:

1)​ Ramp up efficiency

2)​ Multi-skilling skill matrix
3)​ Strandardisation
4)​ Digital operation breakdown

Roles of the department:

1)​ Starts from the preparation of the Operation Breakdown of any particular garment or
style.
2)​ After the operation breakdown, the SAM Value is calculated by the formulae given
below:

SAM= Basic Minute+ Bundle Allowance+ Machine and personal Allowance

3)​ Then, a time study is conducted with element breakdown and noting the time in cycles. A
minimum of 5 cycles is taken into consideration
4)​ After this, a method study is done. In this, every operation is noted along with the number
of operators and helpers needed.
5)​ The layout is set for the flow of material. In this unit, a modular system is used for
production due to buyer requirements. A simulation layout is made and tested before it is
executed in batches on the production floor.
6)​ Critical operation monitoring is done to figure out the critical operations based on the
style, then inline checkpoints are added to the layout according to the critical operations.
7)​ The thread consumption rate (TCR) is calculated with the following formula:

TCR= Seam Length × Machine Factor × Frequency

Machine factor is different from machine to machine; it’s based on the SPI (Stitch per
inch) of any machine

8)​ The skill matrix of operators is done.

 43

A skill matrix is done by a grading system in which operators are graded based on their
ability to use a machine. The grades given are:

I.​ I can talk about it

II.​ I can do it with help
III.​ I can do it on my own
IV.​ I can teach it to others

​ These are the ratings of operators used from highest grade to lowest:

I.​ Floater: All-rounder operators who can handle any machine or operation.
II.​ A+: Operators that are reserved for some specialised machines, especially for
critical operations.
III.​ A grade: Operators that perform difficult but not critical operations like collar
attach, sleeve attach, pocket attach, etc.
IV.​ B grade: Operators that perform comparatively easier operations like shoulder
attach, side seam overlock, etc.
V.​ C grade: Trainee operators who are assigned the most basic operations, like
single-needle joints, etc.
9)​ Line-Balance Ratio (LBR Percentage)- For this, a time study of 5 cycles of all the
operations is done, and the highest cycle time is taken into consideration.

LBR % = Total Cycle Time × 100​

Highest Cycle Time × No.of Workstations

Usually, LBR% ranges from 85-90 %.

10)​ Preparing Line Plan

Efficiency % = Total production in a day × SAM × 100​

No. of working hours × No.of operators

i)​ Peak efficiency is this unit is 50-60 %

ii)​ The efficiency of this unit is low because, after cutting, the panels must go
through heat transfer, embroidery, or printing processes before sewing.

Target = Available Minutes × No.of workstations​

SAM

The line plan is prepared based on SAM and Efficiency.

11)​ CPM( Cost Per Minute) is calculated.

a)​ It is based on the number of workstations, no. of production, total available
minutes, and line efficiency.
b)​ A time study is done of 5 readings for every operation.
 44

c)​ CPAM (Cost per Available Minute)

i)​ CPAM = Total Factory Cost .​
No. of working days × Total Available Minutes
d)​ CPEM (Cost per Earn Minute)
i)​ Earn minutes = SAM × No. of garments produced in one line
ii)​ CPEM = Daily Available Minute × CPAM​
Earn Minute
12)​ Cutting plan- A planned cut date is decided for the cutting plan, with planned cutting for
25-30,000 pieces. The same is done for finishing, depending on the output.
13)​ MMR (Man-machine Ratio) is taken out
a)​ MMR = Total no. of employees​
No.of machines
b)​ This shows how many helpers there are for one tailor.

GAP Analysis is done to find out more efficient ways a task could be done. For any new style, it
takes one day for batch setting. For garments with a higher SAM Value, it could also take 2 days.
On the third day, operators familiarise themselves with the work, and a time study is conducted
to determine the initial LBR percentage. After the fifth day, when operators are well-acquainted
with the process, another time study is conducted to determine the final LBR percentage. Based
on this, batch targets are assigned to each sewing line.
 45

Chapter 9: Maintenance Department

The maintenance department plays a vital role in ensuring that all machines and equipment work
properly without unexpected breakdowns. This helps the company maintain production
schedules and avoid downtime.

The maintenance department follows a structured approach to keep equipment in good condition.
They use different types of maintenance strategies, track equipment performance, and follow
specific procedures for handling repairs and routine maintenance tasks. The department’s main
goal is to prevent equipment failures before they happen while also being ready to fix problems
quickly as they occur. In this unit, each machine has at least 2 barcodes: one for machine
breakdown, and one for recording the machine record.

When equipment needs attention, whether for routine maintenance or emergency repairs, a work
order is created with all the necessary details. This includes what needs to be done, which
equipment is involved, what parts might be needed, and who should do the work.
The process starts when someone reports a problem or when scheduled maintenance is due. The
maintenance supervisor reviews the request and decides how urgent it is. High-priority items like
safety issues or equipment that affects production get handled first. Regular maintenance tasks
are scheduled based on the maintenance calendar and available staff.

Each work order includes step-by-step instructions for the maintenance worker. This ensures that
the work is done correctly and safely every time. After completing the work, the technician fills
out the work order with details about what was done, any parts used, and how long it took. This
information helps track equipment history and plan future maintenance.

Performance tracking
The maintenance department tracks several important measurements to see how well they are
doing by recording the following:
Mean Time Between Failures (MTBF): Shows how long equipment typically runs before
needing repairs. A higher MTBF means equipment is more reliable.
Mean Time to Repair (MTTR): Tracks how long it takes to fix equipment when it breaks
down. The goal is to keep this time as short as possible to minimise production interruptions.
The department also tracks the percentage of planned maintenance versus emergency repairs,
with more planned work being better.

PAMS App
The maintenance department has its application. This comprehensive software solution
streamlines maintenance operations across all production units by implementing a barcode-based
tracking system.
 46

Every piece of machinery throughout the facility is equipped with its unique barcode identifier.
When equipment failures occur, technicians immediately scan the affected machine's barcode
through this module. The system not only logs the breakdown incident but also provides
diagnostic information, displaying the probable cause of the failure and recommended repair
procedures. This instant access to troubleshooting guidance significantly reduces diagnostic time.

Needle Maintenance Protocol

Needle management follows a multi-level distribution system with central storage on the third
floor and issuing points on each production floor. The department maintains comprehensive
records tracking needle distribution by floor, size, and type specifications.
Critical safety protocols for missing needles:

When a broken needle cannot be located, the following escalation procedure must be followed:
1)​ Initial search: inspect oil tanks and floor areas.
2)​ Discovery protocol: if needle fragments are found, report immediately and request
replacement.
3)​ Garment Screening: If no needle is located, pass the garment through the metal detector.
4)​ Final authorisation: If the needle remains unlocated, obtain approval from the factory
manager, the production manager and the product safety officer before issuing a
replacement and registering the incident.

Button Pull Testing Procedure:

The button pull test serves as a quality assurance measure to evaluate the structural integrity and
durability of button attachments on finished garments.

Central Maintenance Department (CMD):

CMD at Gokaldas Export’s head office acts as the company’s innovation hub. Beyond routine
repairs, the department designs and fabricates custom machine folders. And profiles for
automated stitching machines, mainly used for quilting. When a factory encounters a machine
breakdown that it cannot resolve on site, the equipment is sent to the CMD for repair. Since
every new machine arrives here first, the department can apply uniform upgrades, test small
in-house inventions that make sewing tasks easier and send the machine to the factory.
 47

Chapter 10: Quality Department

Quality assurance (QA) is a term used in manufacturing and service industries to describe the
efforts made to ensure that products meet customers' performance, design, dependability, and
maintainability expectations. The QA department is responsible for controlling the quality of raw
materials, assemblies, products, components, and production and inspection procedures. The QA
team also creates standard operating procedures (SOPs) for each part of the team.​
The quality department's work begins when it receives a file from the head office for a specific
style. They prepare two size sets: one that is ironed and one that isn't, to check for fabric
shrinkage and changes in garment dimensions after ironing. Based on this, fabric is sorted,
pattern measurements are given, and tolerances are decided. During the making of the size set,
they also identify potential quality issues.

The size set must be approved by the Nominated Quality Auditor (NQA), who acts as a mediator
between the factory and the buyer's QA. Additionally, there is a Certified Factory Auditor (CFA)
and a Brand Tech, who leads all the NQAs of different factory units for one buyer. The Brand
Tech serves as the single point of contact for the buyer. The Brand Tech and the NQAs are
responsible for establishing the buyer’s standards in the factory, including the Fabric Package
Test and the Garment Package Test. Usually, trims are supplied only by nominated suppliers
certified by the buyer to maintain the garment's quality and the brand's image. It is advised not to
sell C-grade garments and to dispose of them, either by dismantling or incinerating.

Quality Control (QC) in the garment industry involves checking products at various stages of
production to ensure they meet specific standards. This includes inspecting raw materials,
monitoring the production process, and examining finished garments for defects. The goal is to
ensure that each garment meets the quality, design, and performance expectations before
reaching the customer. Before the production of every style, a pre-production meeting takes
place with all the department’ heads. They decide the batch to be allocated for a particular style
according to the order quantity. Based on the order quantity, it is also decided whether a pilot run
will take place or not. A supervisor sample is made for the line supervisor to get acquainted with
the style and understand the critical operations while making the garment. The first garment for
each style and each colour made goes for approval from the NQA.

Traffic light system

The TLS (Traffic Light System) in the garment industry is a quality inspection method that uses
colour-coded cards (green, yellow, red) at workstations to indicate the quality status of the
garment. It is a buyer requirement proposed by Adidas. The process starts with the quality
checker performing random inspections at each workstation. A sample of 5 pieces is taken from
the current production at that workstation for inspection.
 48

Based on the inspection, the workstation is assigned a colour status:

Card Meaning Action Taken

Green (Proceed) Quality meets the standard. A green indicator is put in

No defects were found place at the workstation, and
QC moves on to the next
operation

Yellow (Look and proceed) Signifies ‘Caution’, one Details of the defect are
minor defect was found. passed to the line supervisor.
The status of the operation
changes to Yellow. A critical
aspect is that if any defect is
found during subsequent
inspections of an operation
already in Yellow status, it
automatically moves to Red.

Red (Stop) Indicates ‘assistance The machine and operation

required’, two or more minor are stopped. The QC informs
defects are found, or one the supervisor. The defect is
Critical Defect is found analysed to define its issue
type.
 49

Chapter 11: HR Department

Hiring process for operators

While hiring a new operator for a production process, HR checks for their KYC documents as a
verification card to confirm their age. Furthermore, for the position of a tailor, the person is made
to give a test of their skills. If someone is not skilled in stitching, they are assigned as a
helper/checker. To classify the operators hired in this process, grades are assigned to them based
on the kind of work they provide on the production floor.

Compliances

Statutory Compliance: Statutory compliance refers to the legal framework within which an
organisation must operate while dealing with its employees. This involves adhering to the
various laws, regulations, and guidelines set by the governing bodies. This includes complying
with all the relevant laws and regulations, such as labour laws, tax laws and environmental
regulations. Ensuring that employees are aware of their compliance by regular communication.

Common areas of statutory compliance are:

1.​ Labour and employment laws: They govern the workers’ rights, including their wages,
working hours, occupational health and safety, and non-discrimination policies.
2.​ Environmental Regulations: Complying with environmental laws, which include waste
management, wastewater treatment and other sustainable practices.
3.​ Health and safety: This compliance ensures a safe and healthy working environment by
following all the necessary procedures of safety standards.
4.​ Other industry regulations: They must also follow pharmaceutical regulations and food
safety standards in the canteen for the workers

Non-statutory compliance: Non-statutory compliance refers to adherence to guidelines,

standards, and best practices that are not mandated by law but are followed by organisations to
achieve higher operational standards, improve efficiency, and maintain a good reputation, like
Transport, Attendance Bonus and Provident Fund.

Employees’ State Insurance

ESI is a self-financing social security and health insurance scheme for Indian workers, which is a
major part of one of the policies that is covered in Gokaldas Exports Units. Its purpose is to
provide medical and cash benefits to employees and their dependents in case of sickness,
maternity, disability, and death due to employment injury. It is followed in all factories and
specified establishments. Contributions to the ESI fund are made by both where the employer
contributes a larger percentage, while the employee contributes a smaller portion of their wages.
For any worker to be eligible for ESI, the ceiling limit for salary is 21k. Other employees, such
as staff members, have an insurance scheme with ICICI.
 50

Provident Fund:

The Provident Fund (PF) for workers in an industry is a government-managed savings scheme
designed to provide financial security and stability to employees after retirement. A fixed
percentage of the employee's salary (usually 12% of the basic salary) is deducted each month and
contributed to the Provident Fund.

This provides a secure source of income for employees after retirement in savings while offering
financial stability to employees and their families in case of unforeseen circumstances.

Committees in the industry:

The role of the committees is to ensure the smooth functioning of the company and the
well-being of its employees. There are 4 committees in this unit, namely:

1)​ Canteen Committee

This committee is responsible for the subsidised food issued in the unit to the staff
and operators. They make sure of the cleanliness and food standards of the food
prepared in the unit.

2)​ Works Committee

This committee is responsible for preventing and settling industrial disputes at the
unit level. It promotes measures to secure and preserve good relations between
employers and workers.

3)​ Safety Committee

Plays a crucial role in maintaining a safe working environment. It conducts

regular inspections and risk assessments to identify potential hazards in the
workplace.

4)​ Internal Committee

This committee oversees if there is any situation regarding a case of sexual

harassment, where a worker can report within 90 days of the incident, and the
committee takes action upon it within 60 days.

Performance Appraisal:

This is usually followed by the staff members of the industry, where the appraisal usually ranges
from 8 to 15%. For the procedure of appraisal, KRA (Key Result Area) is followed. This test is
taken quarterly from the managers, peers and juniors as well. During this, the employee gets
scores according to which they may be excellent, good, satisfactory or in need of improvement.
Regular data is captured on employees’ performance in the industry/workplace.
 51

Audits:

Technical audit: Under this comes the quality audit, production, SOPs, etc.

Compliance audit: Housekeeping, doctor, first aid, safety, salary, etc.

 52

Chapter 12: Merchandising & Product Development

Merchandising

The team is responsible for turning an order into products after it is received from the buyer. The
merchandiser acts as the main contact, getting all the necessary details from the buyer throughout
the making of a particular order.
A new approach called “co-creation” is becoming more common, where designers from both the
buyer and Gokaldas Exports work together to develop new collections. This helps combine
creative ideas from both the side to create ranges that work in the market. For most orders, the
total lead time is about 90 days.

Product Development
This development phase usually lasts about 3-4 months before the order is placed
It usually includes:
1)​ Range Building- Creating a lineup of the styles for the season.
2)​ Setting retail prices- Deciding on prices that will suit the market.
3)​ Buyer agreements- Finalizing agreements with buyers.
4)​ Selecting fabric and trims: Choosing the right materials.
All orders are entered into an ERP system, so every department from merchandising to
production has access to the latest details of the order. Theres also special Product Lifecycle
Management (PLM) software used to connect and share information with buyers.
The product development team starts as they get an assortment, which is basically the selection
of the garment styles to make. They create the tech pack that outlines all design and technical
details. Next, a garment sample is prepared. The team’s main objective is to make sure
everything is ready before actually production starts. Costs are updated at each stage up to the
approval of the final fitting sample.
Buyers estimate their order quantities with the help of market data, such as what sells at each
store.

Sourcing Procedure
The sourcing process begins with creating a moodboard or concept collection that reflects the
latest market trends. Buyers provide fashion forecasts, which help Gokaldas Exports understand
what fabrics, styles, and fits are in demand.
The sourcing team then:

1)​ Identifies desired fabrics and projects usage and style needs.
2)​ Approaches mills that can meet order size, fabric quality, and delivery timelines.
 53

3)​ Decides the minimum order and minimum color quantity for fabric production.
4)​ Completes a Fabric Development Sheet and sends it with fabric samples to the buyer.
5)​ Organizes meetings for buyers to choose the final fabric and approve color swatches and
fabric yardage.
6)​ Finalizes the fabric price, helping the merchandiser decide garment pricing for orders.
Either the company or an independent lab does fabric testing as per the buyer’s request. After
testing and approvals for color and quality, the fabric is shipped for production. The team works
to a 60-day deadline for getting all raw materials delivered, making sure certifications and
standards required by the buyer are met.
 54

Chapter 13: Value Added Services

Value-added services in the garment industry refer to additional features or enhancements that
improve the overall product. The aim is to add extra value to the garments, making them more
attractive and unique to customers. At Gokaldas Exports, there is a separate unit, Global
Garments-III, where the following Value Added Services take place:

Washing Department
The washing department plays a critical role in the final aesthetic and feel of a garment. Its
process goes far beyond simple cleaning, serving to alter fabric properties, achieve specific
design effects, and ensure products meet consumer expectations for both style and comfort. The
facility is equipped to handle a wide spectrum of treatments, from basic pre-washes that remove
sizing agents and control shrinkage to advanced finishing techniques.
The unit specialises in a diverse range of dyeing and washing methods, including:
1)​ Softener wash
2)​ Dyeing
3)​ Enzyme wash
4)​ Rag wash
Every wash cycle is initiated by a job card received from the production units. This document
serves as a detailed instruction manual, outlining the fabric type, GSM, required wash finish,
total quantity of the batch and the chemicals required.
Before any large-scale production begins, a small pilot run of 15 to 20 garments is conducted.
This sample wash allows technicians to calibrate the machine settings precisely and is followed
by a thorough quality check. The results are documented in a report and approved by the buyer
before the bulk order proceeds.
Once the main wash cycle is complete, the garments are transferred to a hydro extractor. This
machine uses powerful centrifugal force to rapidly spin out excess water, a crucial step that
significantly reduces subsequent drying time and energy consumption. Finally, the semi-dry
garments are moved to a dryer, where they are either tumble-dried or machine-spun until ready
for the next step of production.
The following equipments are used in the department:
1)​ Ramsons RHW-30 (Horizontal sampling washing machine).
2)​ Ramsons RVW-520 and Yimark Ecogen-EG-W-400 (Bulk washing machines).
3)​ Ramsons RHE-200 (Hydro extractor).
4)​ Ramsons RTD-60 (Tumble Dryer).

Chemical Storage area- This area stores all the chemicals used in different processes. Only
authorized personnel can enter, and records are kept to ensure safe handling of chemicals. Each
container is labeled for safety. There are 9 racks with 3 rows each for storing chemicals, sorted
into three sections: enzymes, softeners, and auxiliaries. Safety precautions are strictly followed,
 55

especially for flammable chemicals, and organic chemicals are stored separately, mainly for
kidswear production. Anti-explosive lights are installed here, designed with strong materials and
sealed to prevent sparks or heat from causing fires. Every rack has cards detailing the chemical
category, material, issuance nature, and handling precautions.

Printing Department
Several types of prints are done in this unit :

1)​ Rubber Print: Rubber print or Plastisol print is a technique that applies a thick, opaque
layer to the cloth by using rubberised ink. It offers outstanding colour vibrancy and
coverage.
2)​ Semi-Rubber Print: Compared to rubber print, this technique uses less ink, giving the
fabric a softer feel. It blends a cosier touch with the robustness of rubber print

3)​ Metallic Print: A glossy, reflective effect that is produced by using metallic inks. This
method gives the design a shiny, metallic sheen.

4)​ Foil Print: This technique uses a unique adhesive to put a coating of metallic foil to the
fabric. As a result, the design is bright, reflecting, and has a distinctly metallic
appearance.

5)​ Shiny Gold Print: A kind of metallic print or foil that especially uses foil or ink coloured
gold to give the fabric an opulent, shiny gold appearance.

6)​ HD Print: A high-density print produces a raised, three-dimensional appearance by

applying dense layers of ink. The pattern gives the fabric a haptic, embossed effect as
though it were raised above it.

7)​ Puff Print: This technique uses an ink component that, when heated, expands to give the
texture a raised, puffy appearance. As a result, the design appears soft, spongy, and
three-dimensional.

8)​ Flock Print: This technique adds fibres to the cloth to give it a velvety touch. As a result,
the print has a plush feel to it with a raised, soft design that is fuzzy to the touch.

9)​ Flock Print with Hologram: This technique combines holographic components with
conventional flock printing. With a holographic effect that varies in colour and look
according to the angle of light, the design boasts a velvety touch.
 56

10)​ Glow in the Dark Print: makes use of phosphorescent ink, which illuminates when light
is absorbed. Because the design is visible in low light, it is perfect for special effects.

11)​ HT Sublimation Print: Dye is transferred onto synthetic materials using heat in
high-temperature sublimation printing. The dye absorbs into the cloth to produce a vivid,
durable design that won't peel or fracture.

12)​ Reflective Print: This type of printing makes the design visible in low light by using
materials that reflect light or reflective inks. In sportswear, it's frequently used for
visibility and safety.

13)​ Discharge Print: This technique involves removing the fabric's original dye and applying
a fresh hue in its stead. Because the design appears to be a part of the fabric rather than sit
on top of it, this approach gives the material a velvety, antique appearance.

Screen printing is a method where pigment is pushed through a fine mesh template to print
patterns onto the fabric. The department operates with 9 automated screen printing machines and
10 manual units to handle various other production requirements. They follow a detailed printing
guide which includes buyer name, style number, type of print, design details, fabric colour,
quantity, pigment used, heat and pressure settings, and the number of layers and passes required
for the design
After printing, the panels undergo 100% panel inspection, wherein the panels are checked for ink
spots and stains, stretching, crease lines, cracking, sticky print, etc.

How are the screens made?

The screens use polyester mesh material in various densities, like 39p, 160p, 180p, 150p, 180p,
and 200p. The more there is colour variation in the print, the finer the mesh is chosen. A wooden
frame is selected based on the size of the print, and polyester mesh is pulled tight across it. And
adhesive is brushed along each edge so the mesh bonds to the frame. Then, the frame is set aside
until the glue cures. Once the glue is dry, the mesh is evenly coated with light-reactive
photo-emulsion. A transparent plastic film printed with the design in solid black is laid flat
against the emulsion side of the screen. The black areas on the film block light and clear areas let
light pass through, curing it. The assembly is placed under a 6000-watt ultraviolet exposure unit.
After exposure, the screen is washed with water.
 57

Poly-filling
Polyfilling is the process of using polyester fiberfill to add insulation to apparel and other textile
goods. This synthetic material is a key component in outerwear like jackets and coats. Polyfill is
chosen for its excellent thermal properties, light weight, and resilience, as it maintains its loft and
shape even after repeated wear and washing.
It starts with raw polyester fibres, which are fed into a carding machine. This machine aligns and
separates the fibres, transforming them into a uniform, lofty material known as fiberfill. The
prepared fiberfill is then transported from the carding station to the filling machine using a
pneumatic system, which uses air pressure to move the material efficiently through closed tubes.
Panels which have pre-sewn channels are positioned at the filling station. Using a Richpeace
ST-MJ-226 poly-filling machine, a precise amount of fiberfill is injected into each panel. After
filling, each panel undergoes padding. Workers use a wooden stick to tap the panels, ensuring the
fiberfill is evenly distributed and gets rid of empty spaces. The opening is then stitched closed.

Poly-wadding
The process begins with a blend of three types of polyester fibers – siliconized poly, low-melt
poly, and non-siliconized poly – which are mixed in specific percentages and fed into a mixing
bale opener to break them apart. These fibers then go through a feeder to a mixing opener, where
they are thoroughly blended and separated. Next, a carding machine combs the fibers into a
uniform web, which is then layered by a web cross conveyer to build thickness and loft for
insulation.

For bonding, a resin spray is applied to the web. It then enters a drying chamber, where heat sets
the resin and, if present, thermally bonds any low-melt fibers, creating a stable wadding. The
wadding moves onto a net conveyer, where a non-woven fusible layer is attached. Finally, the
finished wadding is wound onto a rolling roll and packed using vacuum to compress it for
transport
 58

Chapter 14: Sustainability

In Gokaldas Exports, they have implemented several sustainable practices, integrating various
initiatives across its operations to reduce its environmental footprint and promote ethical
practices. One of the key areas of focus is water conservation. The company has implemented
water saving measures such as rainwater harvesting and advanced wastewater treatment systems.
These efforts significantly reduce water consumption and promote responsible water usage,
which is critical in water-scarce regions. In terms of energy efficiency Gokaldas Exports has
taken substantial steps to reduce energy consumption by installing energy-efficient lighting and
machinery. Additionally, the company has adopted energy-saving practices, like changing all the
CFLs to LED lights further minimising its energy usage and contributing to a reduction in
greenhouse gas emissions. The company is also committed to waste reduction. Gokaldas Exports
has introduced recycling programs for paper, plastic, and fabric waste, ensuring that these
materials are reused rather than discarded. They sort fabric waste, paper waste and plastics.
Gokaldas Exports is equally committed to fair labour practices, ensuring that employees work in
safe conditions, receive fair wages, and have equal opportunities. They also have adopted solar
power and measures to reduce transportation emissions. By prioritizing renewable energy. The
company also upholds responsible chemical management, ensuring the safe handling, storage,
and disposal of chemicals. Finally, Gokaldas Exports has implemented supply chain transparency
practices, ensuring accountability and traceability of materials and processes. Obtaining
certifications like GOTS, Oeko-Tex, further demonstrates the company’s commitment to
sustainable and ethical practices.
 59

Chapter 15: Project

Implementing 5S Principles with Visual General Instructions on the

Sewing Floor for the Operators

Introduction

Operators on the sewing floor at Gokaldas Exports occasionally face challenges in consistently
recalling or clearly understanding all general instructions. This can result in minor
inconsistencies in operational practices and workstation organization, impacting overall
uniformity. Traditional text-based Standard Operating Procedures (SOPs) have proven
insufficient, often being forgotten or not referred to during daily work. Over time, this
contributes to operational variations, less organized workstations, and occasional safety
oversights, particularly for new or multitasking operators.

This project addresses this gap by introducing visual general instructions, grounded in the 5S
methodology (Sort, Set in Order, Shine, Standardize, Sustain). By transforming key daily
practices into visually clear, pictorial SOPs, this initiative aims to make instructions instantly
understandable, easily recallable, and visually reinforced at the point of work. This approach is
crucial for a busy production environment, as visual cues are highly effective in standardizing
behavior, embedding good habits, and ultimately contributing to improved quality, safer working
conditions, and enhanced efficiency.

Objectives

1.​ Reinforce and Improvise 5S Principles through Visual instructions.

2.​ To enhance operator understanding and adherence.
3.​ To standardize workstation and operational practices.
4.​ To promote workplace safety and well-being.
5.​ To improve overall quality and reduce operational errors.

Methodology

​
Phase 1: Observational Study

●​ Conducted focused observations of operators across a variety of sewing machine types

(e.g., Single Needle Lockstitch, Overlock, Flatlock, etc.) on the sewing floor.
 60

●​ Observation was done when the operator used to arrive at their workstation till they
completed their shift for a few days to capture different operating conditions.

●​ Engaged in brief, informal discussions with operators and floor supervisors to gather
qualitative insights into perceived challenges, frequently forgotten instructions, and the
clarity of existing guidance.

Phase 2: Content Definition & 5S Integration

Systematically mapped each compiled instruction to the relevant 5S principle and categorized
them into actionable phases relevant to an operator's daily shift

1.Sort (Seiri)

Keep only what is necessary – remove all unnecessary items.

●​ Remove foreign items from the machine table (e.g., bottles, bags, extra tools)
●​ Don’t place stickers randomly avoid visual clutter
●​ Keep only required bundles and tools for the current operation
●​ Tie hair back to prevent hazards and distractions

2. Set in Order (Seiton)

A place for everything and everything in its place.

●​ Pass pieces in serial order to maintain workflow clarity

●​ Keep trimmers in their holders not in pockets
●​ Use dedicated areas for bundles and sticker sheets
●​ Use sticker panels or templates to place stickers in the right spot

3. Shine (Seiso)

Keep the workstation clean and inspect regularly.

●​ Clean the machine before shift starts

●​ Use a cloth or brush to remove lint and dust
●​ Place oil check sheet under the needle after shift to check for leaks
●​ Keep workstation tidy after each task
 61

4. Standardize (Seiketsu)

Establish visual standards and routines everyone follows.

●​ Follow the same routine every shift: Clean → Test stitch → Needle guard → Serial
passing → Oil check → Power off
●​ Use visuals and illustrated SOPs for all machines
●​ Wear a mask and follow dress code rules (e.g., no loose clothing, tie hair)
●​ Maintain consistent layout for materials and instructions at each station

5. Sustain (Shitsuke)

Build the habit – make 5S a part of daily routine.

●​ To remain effective and relevant in the long run, the visual general instructions will
require ongoing review and minor adjustments. As processes evolve, new challenges
emerge, or feedback is gathered, small, iterative changes to the visuals or instructions will
be necessary. This commitment to continuous refinement ensures the system remains a
living document that truly supports operations.
 62

Phase 3: Visual Design & Development

Deliverables

We have successfully developed comprehensive visual instructions for the following key sewing
machines present on the floor:

●​ SNLS
●​ SNLS Edge Cutter
●​ DNLS
●​ Overlock 4-thread
●​ Overlock 6-thread
●​ Flatlock Machine
●​ Double Needle Split Bar
●​ Bartack m/c
●​ Button hole m/c
 63

Expected Outcomes

Integrating 5S principles through these visual general instructions is expected to yield significant
positive outcomes, particularly in fostering a safer, more disciplined, and higher-quality work
environment.

Crucially, the standardization of daily practices, including precise material handling (e.g.,
following bundle sequences , self-trimming, and self-checking procedures, directly contributes to
a significant reduction in operational inconsistencies and errors, leading to improved stitch
quality and a more uniform final product.

Ultimately, the emphasis on standardization and sustained practices through visual reinforcement
will cultivate a proactive safety and quality culture, ensuring that worker well-being and product
excellence are intrinsically linked to daily operational success.

Implementation
 64

The visual general instruction posters will be put up at each workstation at an optimal height of
approximately 33-34 cm from the table surface. This ensures the instructions are positioned
directly at the operator's eye level when seated and working, making them highly visible and
easily accessible for quick reference without interrupting their workflow. The lamination of the
posters, as seen in the images, further ensures their durability in the factory environment.

●​ The team will start by putting these new picture guides up in one area or on one line. This
helps them see how they work and if any changes are needed before a full rollout.
●​ The small picture guides (A5 size) will be placed right at each machine, where operators
can easily see them. They will be made durable to prevent damage.
●​ Supervisors will conduct short, clear briefing sessions to explain each picture guide. They
will demonstrate what to do and answer any questions from operators.
●​ Supervisors will continuously observe and support operators in following the new
procedures. They will provide positive reinforcement for correct practices.
●​ New hires will learn using these picture guides from their very first day, integrating them
into their initial training.
●​ Simple messages about these new guides will be shared across the floor so everyone
understands their purpose and how they contribute to daily work.
 65

Appendices
Machine Details
Fabric Relaxation Machine

●​ Machine Make/Model: Ram Dukes RVR HFRR

●​ Optimal Running Speed: 15m/min
●​ Fabric Width: 1.8-3 m
●​ Standard Roll Diameter: 500mm
●​ Standard Roll Weight: 100 kg
●​ Electric Spec: Phase 3- 380 V; 50 Hz
●​ Power: 324 hp 110 W

CAD Plotting Machine

●​ Make: Richpeace Vertical Inkjet ●​ Max. Paper Weight: 22 kg

Cutting Plotter ●​ Material: Gray Shading
●​ Model: RP-MT/2-180-KC Whiteboard Paper, Double-Sided
●​ Dimensions: 2550 x 550 x 1060 Gray Paperboard and Kraft Paper
●​ Power supply: 200 V ●​ Knife type: Rotary Knife
●​ Plotting Speed: 72 sq.m/hour ●​ Paper feeding system: Fully
●​ Plotting Precision: 0.025mm Automatic
●​ Cutting Speed: 800mm/s (max) ●​ Cartridge type/no.: HP45/2

Cutting Machines

●​ CNC Cutting Machine

Gerber cutter Assyst Bullmer cutter

●​ Model no: XLC7000 ●​ Model no.: Pro-cut XL7501

●​ Cutting speed (maximum): 30.5 ●​ Cutting speed (maximum): 30.5
m/min- 1200 in/min m/min- 1000 in/min
●​ Fabric drill: up to 12.7mm with a ●​ Knife length: 22.3 cm
vortex knife cooler ●​ Knife width: 8 mm
●​ Intuitive graphical touchscreen ●​ Material thickness: 2.5 mm
●​ Cuts up to 7.2 cm of compressed ●​ Cuts up to 7.5 cm of compressed
material material

●​ Straight Knife Cutting Machine

○​ Make/Model: Eastman 629x
○​ Motor: Phase 1, 220 V
 66

○​ Horsepower: 1.93 ph
○​ Weight: 15.4 kg
○​ Stroke Size: 1.5 inch (3.81 cm)
○​ Blade Size: 8 inch (20.3 cm)
○​ Cutting Capacity: 6.5 inch ​

●​ Band Knife Cutting Machine

○​ Make/Model: Eastman EKPG 102
○​ Power Supply: Phase 1; 220 V
○​ Power Consumption: 180 W
○​ Arm Size: 900mm
○​ Horsepower: 1 ph
○​ Weight: 300 kg
○​ Blade length: 3m

Fusing Machines​
There are 3 continuous bed fusing machines in the cutting department:

●​ Hashima HP 450 MS
○​ Power Supply: Phase 1; 220 V
○​ Rated Output: Heater- 4kW; Motor- 33W
○​ Temperature: 195°C (max)
○​ Pressure: 1.5 kg/cm2 (max)
○​ Belt Speed: 8.7m/min (max)
○​ Heating Time: 5~20 sec
○​ Fusing Width: 450 mm
○​ Dimensions: 1660mm X 880mm X 490mm
○​ Weight: 152 kg

●​ Oshima OP 1000 L
○​ Power Supply: Phase 3; 380 V
○​ Rated Output: Heater- 21.6 kW; Motor- 440W
○​ Temperature: 200°C (max)
○​ Pressure: 0.2~0/6 MPa
○​ Fusing Time: 0.2m/min~6m/min
○​ Dimensions: 4860mm X 1550mm X 1350mm
○​ Weight: 1050 kg

●​ Fiblon HBP FA 700

○​ Power Supply: Phase 3; 380 V
○​ Rated Output: 8.4 kW/H
○​ Temperature: 200°C (max)
○​ Pressure: 1 MPa (max); 1-5 kg/cm2
○​ Belt Speed: 13m/min (max)
○​ Dimensions: 4900mm X 1580mm X 1350mm
 67

○​ Weight: 1100 kg

Embroidery Machines​
There are two types of embroidery machines in this unit:

●​ Barudan BEKS Y918 ●​ Tajima TMCP-V0620FD

○​ Quantity: 1 ○​ Quantity: 2
○​ 18 heads ; 9 needles ○​ 20 heads ; 6 needles
○​ Needle: DB×1 KN ○​ Needle: DB×K5Z1FS
○​ Stitch Length: 0.1-12.7 mm ○​ Speed: 200 - 1100 rpm
○​ Speed: 200 - 1000 rpm ○​ Power Supply: 3P 380 V
○​ Power Supply: 3P 380 V ○​ Power Consumption: 1.2 kW
○​ Power Consumption: 0.7 kW ○​ Embroidery field:
○​ Embroidery frame diameter: 550×200/400 mm
8-21 cm

Sewing Machines used: ​

Different machines are used here depending on their purpose.

Table 14: Sewing Machine Types

Sewing Machine Make Model Distinct Features

900B-BSNBK Oil shielding system

Juki Semi-dry head with
9000B-MS-SC920
control panel

Digital control panel,

Single Needle S7250-503P automatic stitch
Lockstitch UBT length
Brother
S7220D-403-022 Needle Feed

Direct Drive
S-7300A-403
Electronic Feed

Highlead GC-188 MD Includes Edge Cutter

Standard hook with

Juki LH-3528-ASF-7WB
UBT
Double Needle Lock
Touch Control Panel
Stitch (DNLS) with Brother T-8422D-403-N64D
with UBT
Standard Bar
With bottom and
Highlead GC-20518-M
needle feed
 68

Brother T-8452D-S03-N64D UBT

DNLS with Split Bar
Highlead GC-20528-M -

Highlead GK-0058 -

Semi-dry head with

Double Needle Chain Jack JK-8558-WZ
rear puller
Stitch (DNCS)
Direct drive with
FDM FD-380-2
Puller device

TNCS Shangong GK-3830 -

Kansai DFB-1412-P Flat Bed

Multi Needle Chain Hikari HW-800T-UTC Cylinder Bed

Stitch (MNCS)
Siruba VC008-12064P Cylinder Bed

Kansai UK-Series With Back Latch

M852-13 -

Pegasus M952-52H With Tape Feeder

4 thread Overlock
EXT-S114-03-333N For Rib Attach

CZ6120-Y5DF-STC With Tape Feeder

Yamato
AZF-8420-YSDF For Rib Attach

5 thread Overlock Pegasus M932-38 -

Pegasus M932-355
6 thread Overlock With Submerged Bed
Yamato CZ-6250-AY5DF

Juki MS-161 -

Tony H-928-MP -
Feed of the Arm
Brother DA-9280-5
For Stripes Attach
Duke H-928-M
 69

Kansai WX-8803 -
Flatlock with 3
Pegasus W-562PV-01
needle 2 looper UBT
Yamato CF-2300M-156M

VT-1560-160S -
Flatlock with 4
Yamato With Cylinder Bed,
needle 2 looper VC-2790-GP
Puller and UBT

Flat Seam Machine Yamato FD-62G-12HS -

Button Wrapping Loiva ST-9 UBT

Juki LK-1903A-SS
Button Stitch Computer Controlled
Brother BE-438FX-11

Juki LBH-1790-ANS
Button Hole Computer Controlled
Brother HE-800B-2

Juki LK-1900
Computer Controlled
Bartack Brother KE-430HS-03

Sunstar SPS-C-B1201H For heavy fabrics

Automatic Placket Duke T-5878-58B -

Stitch Uzu UZ-PL-59D -

Single Head Elastic For waistband elastic

Supreme SP-F1612A
Joining Machine joining

Pattern Sewer Brother BAS-311-HX With large bed

Welt Pocket Attach ASS 3202 -

Metal Detection Machine

Machine Make/Model- Besta Machine Model: CBS-800 MAS

●​ Passing Width: 850mm ●​ Conveyor: 2250 mm

●​ Passing Height: 100m ●​ Alarm: Buzzer, Lamp, Belt Stop
●​ Belt Speed: 35~40m/min ●​ Power Supply: Phase 2, 220V
 70

Appendix II
ORGANIZATION DETAILS
Name of Establishment: Gokaldas Exports (ECC-I)
Year of Estd. 1987
Type of Establishment
Pvt. Ltd.
(Proprietary/Partner./Pvt. Ltd.)
Annual Turnover (Rs.crore) 2268.75 crores INR
Export/Doms/Both./100%EOU Export
In house /Fabrication/Both Fabrication
Total Floor Area (Sq. meter) 12,141
Total Worker (Numbers) Male ( 311 ); Female ( 1289 )
Total Employee (Other than Workers) Male ( 83 ); Female ( 67 )
CUTTING Dept.
Production Manager 1
CAD Specialists 3
Supervisor 7
Workers / Helpers 192
Staff 28
QA/QC 3
SEWING Dept. (including FINISHING & PACKING)
Production manager 1
Floor Incharge 5
Supervisor 27
QC 28
Sewing Operators 764
Helpers 164
Ironers 109
Checkers 82
 71

MACHINE/EQUIPMENT DETAILS
SEWING M/C TYPE Make / Model No.of M/C
Juki 900B-BSNBK 49
Juki 9000B-MS-SC920 164
Brother S7250-503P 115
SNLS With UBT
Brother S7220D-403-022 20
Brother S-7300A-403 3
Highlead GC-188-MD 72
Juki LH-3528-ASF-7WB 2
DNLS with Standard Bar Brother T-8422D-403-N64D 10
Highlead GC-20518-M 13
Brother T-8452D-S03-N64D 1
DNLS with Split Bar
Highlead GC-20528-M 5
Highlead GK-0058 9
DNCS Jack JK-8558-WZ 17
FDM-380-2 8
TNCS Shangong GK-3830 1
Kansai DFB-1412-P 2
MNCS Hikari HW-800T-UTC 1
Siruba VC008-12064P 23
Kansai UK-Series 50
4Th. O/l Pegasus M852-13 3
Pegasus M952-52H 53
Pegasus EXT-S114-03-333N 17
4Th. O/l Yamato CZ6120-Y5DF-STC 64
Yamato AZF-8420-YSDF 13
 72

5TH. O/L Pegasus M932-38 9 .

Pegasus M932-355 47
6TH. O/L
Yamato CZ-6250-AY5DF 5

Juki MS-161 1
Brother DA-9280-5 1
Feed Off the Arm
Tony H-928-MP 1
Duke H-928-M 1
Kansai WX-8803 7
Flatlock with 3 needle 2 looper Pegasus W-562PV-01 13
Yamato CF-2300M-156M 16
Yamato VT-1560-160S 8
Flatlock with 4 needle 2 looper
Yamato VC-2790-GP 12
Flat Seam Machine Yamato FD-62G-12HS 25
Button Wrapping Loiva ST-9 2
Juki LK-1900 7
Bartack Brother KE-430HS-03 30
Sunstar SPS-C-B1201H 1
Juki LK-1903A-SS 14
Button sew
Brother BE-438FX-11 1
Juki LBH-1790-ANS 12
Button hole
Brother HE-800B-2 2
Duke T-58578-58B 9
Auto Placket Stitch
Uzu UZ-PL-59D 2
Single Head Elastic ​
Supreme SP-F1612A 1
Join Machine
Pattern Sewer Brother BAS-311-HX 5
Welt Pocket Attach ASS 3202 4
 73

SPREADING/ CUTTING M/C Make / Model No.of M/C

Automatic Cutting M/C (CNC) Gerber XLC7000/Assyst Bullmer 2
Fabric Drilling Machine Sulee CD-600 1
Round Knife Cutting Machine Golden Tiger GT 110 1
Automatic Spreader Gerber SY-101-180-L 1
End Cutter Eastman EC 3NL 15
Straight Knife Cutting Machine Eastman 629X8 13
Band Knife Cutting Machine Eastman EC-900N 1
FUSING M/c Make / Model No.of M/C
Hashima HP 450MS 1
Continuous Fusing Machine Oshima OP 1000L 1
Fiblon HBP FA 700 1
EMBROIDERY M/c Make / Model No.of M/C

18 heads; 9 needles Barudan BEKS Y918 1

20 heads; 6 needles Tajima TMCP-V0620FD 2
FINISHING M/c Make / Model No.of M/C
V-Table Ironing Workstation Ramsoms-RON006-87 87
Rectangle Ironing Workstation Sunshine SVT-138 35
Form Finisher Ramsoms 8308 1
Stain Removing Workstation Ramsoms CL-4 1
Snap Attach Machine Loiko SLQ-01-100-SH 11
Single Head Thread Trimming Grand T-22E-BLN 4
Tumble Dryer IFB MAXIDRY-550 1
Washing Machine IFB SENORITA SXS 6510 1
Auxiliary Equipment Make / Model No.of M/C
Boiler Jaya JS IBR 3.5 ton 1
Diesel Generator Cummins NTA-14-G3 380 kVA 2
 74

Air Compressor CP CPC-40 P 300L 2

Strapping Machine Ventura TP-103 1
Needle Detector Besta CBS-600MAS 2
 75

Appendix III & IV

Organization Details

Name of the Organization Gokaldas Exports (ECC-I)

Country India State Karnataka

Nature of Business Exports City Bengaluru

Fabric & Garment Details for 1st lay

Adidas Fabric Width

57
Style Description IS2408MR2106V (Inches)

Fabric Category Fabric Category

Weft Knit Fabric Single Jersey
(Primary) (Secondary)

Fabric Description Single Pique Hydrophilic

Fabric Weight
Solid 61-100
Fabric Type (GSM)

Symmetrical in Open Width Fabric

Fabric Surface Design Both Direction Fabric Package Type Roll

Fiber Content Polyester 100

Percentage (%)
Fabric Construction

Ends/Wales per Inch 30 Warp Count (Ne) 30.0

Picks/Course Per Inch 38 Weft Count (Ne) 40.0

Spreading Method Details

Spreading Method > Manual Spreading M/c Type Spreader

>
 76

Make of Spreading Gerber Machine Age 2-5 Years

Machine >

Table Height (Inches) 35.5 Table Width (Inches) 72.5

Lay Length (Meters) 3.22 Centered

Lay Height 1.5"-2" Total Plies in Lay 43

Spreading Mode FOW-NOW Use of Splice None

CAD printed paper No. Of Splice

Marker Type marker Points None

Spreading Time Study

Number of Plies Time Duration Total Fabric
Spread (Minutes) Handled (Meters)
Observation Cycle -1 10 14:35 32.3

Observation Cycle -2 20 30:08:00 63.2

Observation Cycle -3 10 15:57 33.1

Number of Operators involved 2

Age of Height of Educational Experience of Gender of

Operator Operator Qualification Operator Operator
(Years) (Years)
Operator 1 22 5' 3" Sr. Sec. 2 Female

Operator 2 25 5' 1" Matric 5 Female

Marker & Cutting Method Details

Number of Marker
Marker
12 Ways Patterns per 4 Width 57
Ways
Garment (Inches)
 77

Type of Make of Marker

CNC Gerber
Cutting Cutting Length 3
Cutter XLC7000
Machine Machine (Meters)

Blade Type Straight Blade Length

2.5" Machine Age 2-5 Years
Edge (Inches)

Whether Block Cutting Used?

No

Cutting Time Study (for CNC Cutter)

Time Duration Total Number Linear Number of
(Minutes) of Patterns Cut Length Cut Notches Marked
(Meters)
Observed
Cycle-1 15 5 1 3

Observed
Cycle -2 15 6 1.2 2

Observed
Cycle -3 30 12 2.3 4

Number of Operators involved 2

Age of Height of Educationa Experience of Gender of

Operator Operator l Operator Operator
(Years) Qualificatio (Years)
n
Operator 1 26 5' 6" Sr. Sec. 4 Male

Operator 2 24 5' 8" Matric 3 Male

Operator 3 23 5' 5" Matric 2 Male

 78

Fabric & Garment Details for 2nd lay

Adidas
Fabric Width
Style Description IS24SPRMGFX001 62
(Inches)
V

Fabric Category
Weft Knit Fabric Fabric Description Single Jersey
(Primary)

Fabric Type Solid Fabric Weight (GSM) 171-210

Fabric Surface Symmetrical in Both Open Width
Fabric Package Type
Design Direction Fabric Roll

Fiber Content Cotton 100

Percentage (%)
Fabric Construction

Ends/Wales per Inch 65 Warp Count (Ne) 20.0

Picks/Course Per Inch 70 Weft Count (Ne) 25.0

​
Spreading Method Details

Spreading Method > Manual Spreading M/c Type Spreader

>

Make of Spreading Gerber Machine Age 2-5 Years

Machine >

Table Height Table Width

(Inches) 35.5 (Inches) 72.5

Lay Length (Meters) 1.53 Centered

Lay Height 2.5"-3" Total Plies in Lay 34

Spreading Mode FOW-NOW Use of Splice None

 79

CAD printed paper No. Of Splice

Marker Type marker Points None

Spreading Time Study

Number of Plies Time Duration Total Fabric
Spread (Minutes) Handled (Meters)
Observation Cycle -1 10 00:21:31 15.5

Observation Cycle -2 20 00:43:52 30.7

Observation Cycle -3 30 01:05:52 45.9

Number of Operators involved 2

Age of Height of Education Experience of Gender of

Operator Operator al Operator Operator
(Years) Qualificati (Years)
on
Operator 1 26 5' 3" Matric 2 Female

Operator 2 24 5' 1" Sr. Sec. 3 Female

Marker & Cutting Method Details

Marker Number of
Marker
Ways Patterns
2 Ways 6 Width 62
per
(Inches)
Garment

Type of Straight Make of Marker

Eastman
Cutting Knife Cutting Length 1
629x
Machine Cutter Machine (Meters)

Blade Type Blade

Straight
Length 8" Machine Age 5-8 Years
Edge
(Inches)

Whether Block Cutting

Yes
Used?
 80

Cutting Time Study (for Straight Knife Cutting Machine)

Time Duration Total Number Linear Number of
(Minutes) of Patterns Cut Length Cut Notches Marked
(Meters)
Observed
Cycle-1 15 3 0.5 4

Observed
Cycle -2 15 4 0.3 3

Observed
Cycle -3 30 7 0.9 6

Number of Operators involved 3

Age of Experience of
Height of Educational Gender of
Operator Operator
Operator Qualification Operator
(Years) (Years)
Operator 1 27 5' 5" Sr. Sec. 6 Male

Operator 2 25 5' 7" Matric 3 Male

Operator 3 34 5' 8" Matric 10 Male

General Details
Total Amount
Total Total
of Fabric
Number of Number of
21 17 Handled per 1028.8
Spreading Cutting
day (in Linear
Operators Operators
Meters)

Total Cumulative Total Area of all

length of Cutting Tables in
20.38 301.6
Cutting/Spreading Sq. Meters
Tables in Meters
 81

Appendix V
Time Study Graph​

Style: F20080602-FW25 (Round-Neck Tshirt)

Operation 1: Rib Ready
 82

Style: F20080602-FW25
Operation 3: Rib Ready
 83

Style: EM2180-03-26-BUYF25 (Leggings)

Operation 1: Rib Ready
 84

Style: EM2180-03-26-BUYF25 (Leggings)

Operation 7: Pocket Attachment to side seam
 85

Appendix VI
Time Action Plan Calendar

Order/Style 1
Country of buyer USA
buyer Adidas
Garment description: T-shirt
Fabric details - Knits/wovens/solid dyed/yarn dyed/print* Knit
Fabric description: Single Jersey Pique
Order quantity/original delivery date: 5,000
Date
Activity Description On/From To
Date buyer meeting (sampling request+specifications received) 17/01/2025
Date FIT samples were sent to the buyer 18/1/2025
Date comment (approval/rejection) received from the buyer 19/1/2025
Duration of FIT 1st iteration (steps 2 - 3) 20/1/2025 22/01/2025
Duration of FIT 2nd iteration(steps 2 - 3)
Date Order Confirmation (Col+Qty+Delv+Price) 22/1/2025
Date size set were sent to buyer 5/2/2025
Date comment on size set from buyer 6/2/2025
Duration of size set: 1st iteration (steps 5 - 6)
Duration of size set 2nd iteration (steps 5 - 6)
Date lab dip were sent to the buyer 20/2/2025
Date comment (approval/rejection) on lab dip from buyer 21/2/2025
Duration of lab dip 1st iteration(steps 7 - 8)
Duration of lab dip 2nd iteration(steps 7 - 8)
Date first lot finished fabric received in store 20/3/2025
Date bulk fabric (from first lot) sent to buyer for color approval 21/3/2025
Date bulk fabric color (approval/rejection) received from buyer 21/3/2025
Duration of fabric color approval 1st iteration (steps 10 - 11)
Duration of fabric color approval 2nd iteration (steps 10 - 11)
Date processed fabric (first approved lot) sent for lab test 23/3/2025
Date lab test comment (approval/rejection) received 25/3/2025
Duration of lab test 1st iteration (steps 12 - 13)
Duration of lab test 2nd iteration (steps 12 - 13)
Date Bulk embroidery thread sent to buyer for approval
Date Bulk embroidery thread approval/rejection received
Duration embroidery thread approval 1st iteration (steps 14 - 15)
Duration embroidery thread approval 2nd iteration (steps 14 - 15)
Duration cutting 26/3/2025 28/03/2025
Duration Sewing 27/3/2025 16/04/2025
Duration washing (if applicable)
Date production piece sent to buyer 28/3/2025
Date goods out of factory (in exporting country) 17/4/2025
 86

Shipping Date (after customs) 22/4/2025

Entire Order Cycle 96

Order/Style 2
Country of buyer USA
buyer Columbia Hardware
Garment description: Jacket
Fabric details - Knits/wovens/solid dyed/yarn dyed/print* Knit
Fabric description: Fleece Unbrushed
Order quantity/original delivery date: 2,000
Date
Activity Description On/From To
Date buyer meeting (sampling request+specifications received) 01/03/2025
Date FIT samples were sent to the buyer 2/3/2025
Date comment (approval/rejection) received from the buyer 3/3/2025
Duration of FIT 1st iteration (steps 2 - 3) 04/03/2025 05/03/2025
Duration of FIT 2nd iteration(steps 2 - 3) 05/03/2025 06/03/2025
Date Order Confirmation (Col+Qty+Delv+Price) 7/3/2025
Date size set were sent to buyer 8/3/2025
Date comment on size set from buyer 9/3/2025
Duration of size set: 1st iteration (steps 5 - 6)
Duration of size set 2nd iteration (steps 5 - 6)
Date lab dip were sent to the buyer 27/3/2025
Date comment (approval/rejection) on lab dip from buyer 28/3/2025
Duration of lab dip 1st iteration(steps 7 - 8) 29/03/2025 30/03/2025
Duration of lab dip 2nd iteration(steps 7 - 8)
Date first lot finished fabric received in store 4/5/2025
Date bulk fabric (from first lot) sent to buyer for color approval 6/5/2025
Date bulk fabric color (approval/rejection) received from buyer 6/5/2025
Duration of fabric color approval 1st iteration (steps 10 - 11) 6/5/2025 7/5/2025
Duration of fabric color approval 2nd iteration (steps 10 - 11) 7/5/2025 8/5/2025
Date processed fabric (first approved lot) sent for lab test 7/5/2025
Date lab test comment (approval/rejection) received 8/5/2025
Duration of lab test 1st iteration (steps 12 - 13)
Duration of lab test 2nd iteration (steps 12 - 13)
Date Bulk embroidery thread sent to buyer for approval 20/3/2025
Date Bulk embroidery thread approval/rejection received 21/3/2025
Duration embroidery thread approval 1st iteration (steps 14 - 15)
Duration embroidery thread approval 2nd iteration (steps 14 - 15)
Duration cutting 9/5/2025 11/5/2025
Duration Sewing 10/5/2025 25/5/2025
Duration washing (if applicable) 26/05/2025 30/05/2025
Date production piece sent to buyer 11/5/2025
Date goods out of factory (in exporting country) 31/05/2025
 87

Shipping Date (after customs) 07/06/2025

Entire Order Cycle 98

Order/Style 3
Country of buyer India
buyer Adidas
Garment description: Shorts
Fabric details - Knits/wovens/solid dyed/yarn dyed/print* Woven
Fabric description: Plain Weave
Order quantity/original delivery date: 10,000
Date
Activity Description On/From To
Date buyer meeting (sampling request+specifications received) 07/02/2025
Date FIT samples were sent to the buyer 8/2/2025
Date comment (approval/rejection) received from the buyer 9/2/2025
Duration of FIT 1st iteration (steps 2 - 3)
Duration of FIT 2nd iteration(steps 2 - 3)
Date Order Confirmation (Col+Qty+Delv+Price) 12/2/2025
Date size set were sent to buyer 13/2/2025
Date comment on size set from buyer 14/2/2025
Duration of size set: 1st iteration (steps 5 - 6)
Duration of size set 2nd iteration (steps 5 - 6)
Date lab dip were sent to the buyer 3/3/2025
Date comment (approval/rejection) on lab dip from buyer 4/3/2025
Duration of lab dip 1st iteration(steps 7 - 8)
Duration of lab dip 2nd iteration(steps 7 - 8)
Date first lot finished fabric received in store 13/3/2025
Date bulk fabric (from first lot) sent to buyer for color approval 14/3/2025
Date bulk fabric color (approval/rejection) received from buyer 15/3/2025
Duration of fabric color approval 1st iteration (steps 10 - 11)
Duration of fabric color approval 2nd iteration (steps 10 - 11)
Date processed fabric (first approved lot) sent for lab test 16/3/2025
Date lab test comment (approval/rejection) received 18/3/2025
Duration of lab test 1st iteration (steps 12 - 13)
Duration of lab test 2nd iteration (steps 12 - 13)
Date Bulk embroidery thread sent to buyer for approval 6/3/2025
Date Bulk embroidery thread approval/rejection received 7/3/2025
Duration embroidery thread approval 1st iteration (steps 14 -
15)
Duration embroidery thread approval 2nd iteration (steps 14 -
 88

15)
Duration cutting 21/3/2025 23/03/2025
Duration Sewing 22/3/2025 6/5/2025
Duration washing (if applicable)
Date production piece sent to buyer 7/5/2025
Date goods out of factory (in exporting country) 8/5/2025
Shipping Date (after customs) 9/5/2025

Entire Order Cycle 92

 89

Appendix VII
Apparel CAD Evaluation format

Section A
QUESTIONNAIRE

SEGMENT – I (ORGANIZATION)

i.​ Which Cad system is being used in your organization? Gerber Accumark

ii.​ When was the CAD system being implemented in your organization?
●​ Before 5 years
●​ 3-5 years
●​ 1-3 years
●​ less than 1 year

iii.​ How many times has the organization upgraded the CAD software or installed / changed to a
new one ?
●​ Once
●​ Two - five times
●​ Almost every year
●​ Whenever required

SEGMENT – II (PURPOSE)

i.​ Is CAD easier than traditional methods?

(a)​ User’s point of view: Yes
(b)​Your point of view: Yes

ii.​ For what purpose/s is the CAD system being used? (Can be more than one)
●​ Only for pattern making
●​ For digitizing the patterns provided by buyer’s
●​ Marker planning
●​ Alterations in patterns
●​ Grading
●​ Other’s

iii.​ Does CAD result in greater productivity, is it more lucrative?

(a)​ Yes ​ ​
(b)​If no, why?​

SEGMENT – III (GENERAL)

i.​ Do you feel that CAD is affordable?

 90

●​ Yes
●​ No
●​ Can't say

ii.​ Are traditional skills required to work on CAD?

Please Comment: Yes, basic pattern making skills and calculations are needed.

iii.​ Are experienced pattern makers (who manually developed patterns and markers) easily
accepting the extensive use of CAD / CAM?
●​ Yes
●​ No
●​ Sometimes

iv.​ Is the combination of an individual readily available who is an expert in CAD / CAM and
pattern making?
●​ Yes, always
●​ No, sometimes
●​ Rarely

SEGMENT- IV (TRAINING)

i.​ Was any training imparted to the operator when the new soft-ware was installed?
●​ Yes
●​ No
●​ If yes, then for how many days?
-​ Less than 7 days
-​ 7-15 days
-​ More than 15 days
ii.​ Are you satisfied with the training given?
●​ Yes
●​ No
●​ If no, please specify the reason?
-​ Training should be of longer duration
-​ Language problem
-​ Any other __________________________

iii.​ Do you think that training is only required when a new software is installed or do you
recommend an in-house training otherwise as-well?
●​ Training every year or 6-months
●​ Only when a software is installed

iv.​ Do you think that the person working on CAD / CAM should be well versed in Pattern and
Marker development or should he have fair knowledge about textile and styling as-well?

Please Comment: Only knowledge about CAD is enough.

 91

SEGMENT – V (PEOPLE INVOLVED)

i.​ How many people are working in the pattern development and marker making department?
Please specify, (approx.)
Before there were 10-12 people working in the pattern development department, after usage
of CAD, this number reduced to 2.
ii.​ Has the number changed (increased / decreased) with the usage of CAD?
●​ Reduced
●​ Are the same
●​ Can’t say
iii.​ What is the age of person working on CAD?
●​ 20-25 yrs.
●​ 25-35 yrs
●​ Above 35 yrs.
iv.​ Does he have any prior work experience on CAD?
●​ Yes
●​ No
●​ If yes, then how many years?
-​ 1 yr.
-​ 1-2 yrs
-​ More than 2 yrs.

Section B
The following factors have been identified to have an influence on adoption of
CAD / CAM. (Kindly select the most appropriate option)​

Factors influencing Strongly Moderately Indifferent Moderately Strongly Can’t

adoption of IT positive positive negative negative say
High Price
𝁁
Reduces dependence
on people 𝁁
Failed installation in
other organization 𝁁
Collaborative
working between
various employees,
supplier and buyer is
𝁁
easier
 92

Ability of supplier to
train the users in our
organization
𝁁

Saves fabric
𝁁
The supplier does not
have an office in the
location where my
organization is
𝁁
situated

Improves first pass

quality product 𝁁
Reduces throughput
time for product
assemble
𝁁

Requirement of
constant training 𝁁
Ready availability of
literate professionals 𝁁
Constant up
gradation of system
required
𝁁

Section C
This sheet will help you decide which system is best for your pattern
development department and organization. ( Even if you have one. )
Note: Simple instructions to fill in the form.
●​ Mention the various CAD / CAM systems you are aware of in (*) columns
●​ In the row below, mention how each of these systems came to your knowledge, whether
through your institute, buyer’s, pattern maker, the respective company, fairs and
exhibitions or some journals etc.
●​ Mention the CAD system under the evaluating points of 1-7.evaluate by giving score of
1-7 where 1 stands for best and 7 for the least.
●​ Same number maybe given for more than one company if the features are felt to be the
same. The company scoring the minimum score as per your requirements should be your
choice for buying the CAD system.
 93

●​ In the last column, kindly mention the basis of your evaluating criteria. For ex., if you
have give 1 to a particular system and 3 to the other, kindly mention who / why you made
the decision.

Criteria Lectra Modaris Gerber Accumark

How you found
out about them
Through College Used in the ECC unit
Communication
s-digitizers and 6 6
file import
Piece geometry
identifications​
(points, lines,
notches,
7 7
orientations
lines, piece
rotation line for
marker making)
Pattern design
functions-measu
6 6
rement
capabilities
Pattern design
functions-darts,
pleats, trace,
cut, combine, 5 6
shrink, stretch,
flip, rotate
patterns.
Pattern design
functions- seam
allowance
6 6
definition,
corners, corner
insert
Removing and
adding of
patterns from
present files,
printing and
6 5
redo and undo
functions &
keyboard and
mouse hot keys-
shortcut keys
 94

Pattern grading
6 6
functions
Maker making
7 7
functions
Automatic
marker making 7 7
functions
Software
7 7
platforms
Outputs and
consumables 6 6
availability
Manuals 7 7
Communication
s access with
6 7
respect internet
compatibility
Warranty and
after sales 5 7
service
CAM and CAS
5 6
interface
Customizing
6 6
features
Cost
5 7
implications
Interface
capabilities with
6 7
other design
software
Plotting facility 7 7
TOTAL 116 123
​
Section D
Analyzing usage of various functions in the CAD / CAM systems.

Note: Kindly tick mark in the relevant column and pen down any remark / comment related to
the point in the last column.

S.No. Criteria Always Sometimes/ Rarely Never Additional

Occasionally Comment
1. Digitization
𝁁
 95

2. On screen
pattern 𝁁
construction
3. Notches
option
𝁁
4. Dart
manipulation 𝁁
5. Grading tools 𝁁
6. Size
corresponden 𝁁
ce
7. Specification
sheet 𝁁
development
8. Piece
assembly
𝁁
9. Variant tools 𝁁
10. Marker
planning 𝁁
11. Plotting
𝁁
12. Piece rotation
𝁁
13. Measurement
capabilities
𝁁
14. Pattern
Design
functions-
Darts, pleats,
trace, cut,
combine,
𝁁
shrink,
stretch, flip,
Rotate
pattern.
15. Removing
and adding 𝁁
patterns

Section E
Technical specifications
Note: Simple instructions to fill in the form.
●​ Mention the various CAD / CAM systems you are aware of in (*) columns
 96

●​ Mention the CAD system under the evaluating points of 1-7, evaluate by giving score of
1-7 where 1 stands for simplest and 7 for the complicated.
●​ Then compare the following system on the basis of the criteria mentioned with respect to
the manual pattern making methods also (Mention the rating in the appropriate column.)
●​ If a particular facility is not available in manual pattern making / CAD, mention NIL.
●​ In the remarks column, kindly mention the basis of your evaluating criteria (If possible).
For ex., if you have given 1 to a particular system and 3 to manual pattern development,
kindly mention why you made the decision.

Lectra Gerber Manual Pattern

Criteria
Modaris Accumark Making
Communications-digitizers
6 6 NIL
and file import
Pattern design
functions-measurement 6 7 7
capabilities
Pattern design
functions-darts, pleats, trace,
7 7 5
cut, combine, shrink, stretch,
flip and rotate patterns.
Pattern design functions-
seam allowance definition, 6 6 7
corners, corner insert
Removing and adding of
patterns from present files,
printing and redo and undo
7 7 5
functions & keyboard and
mouse hot keys- shortcut
keys / Pattern alterations
Pattern grading functions 6 7 6
Changes in Marker plans 6 7 NIL
Automatic marker making
6 6 NIL
functions
Software platforms 6 6 NIL
Outputs and consumables
6 7 NIL
availability
Manuals / Books 6 6 NIL
Communications access with
respect internet 7 6 NIL
compatibility
Warranty and after sales
6 7 NIL
service
CAM 6 6 NIL
Customizing features 6 7 7
Cost implications 7 6 6
 97

Interface capabilities with

6 7 NIL
other design software
Plotting facility 6 7 NIL
Marker Planning Options
(Piece rotation, Ply and
edges, direction of pieces,
quantity of pieces and piece 6 7 NIL
adjustment command,
marker efficiency, fabric
width, etc.)
TOTAL 118 125 43
 98

Appendix VIII​
Software Evaluation format
Section One - Overall Software Name of the
GEX Connect
Requirements software

Meeting your general or overall Your Total (your W/F *

Ref. Score
software compatibility requirements W/F Score )

Operating System (Widnows NT, XP,

1.1 4 4 16
etc.)(NT)
1.2 Database format (SQL, Oracle,etc.)(SQL) 4 4 16
1.3 Data import or export requirements 4 3 12
1.4 The look and feel of the application 3 3 9
1.5 Filtering and searching friendliness 4 4 16
1.6 Look ups 3 3 9
1.7 User configurabilty of look ups and lists 4 3 12
1.8 Users configurabilty of tags and labels 3 3 9
1.9 Handling of links to ancillary information 4 2 8
1.10 Required number of concurrent users 2 4 8
1.11 Archiving requirements 3 3 9
1.12 Barcoding, PDAs and remote devices 4 4 16
1.13 Single or multi-site functionality 4 3 12
1.14 Graphical, hierarchical data structure 4 4 16
1.15 Regulatory compliance support 4 3 12
1.16 Ease of implementation 4 4 16
1.17 Additional database software required 2 3 6
1.18 System maintenance 4 4 16
1.19 Paperless systems 4 2 8
1.20 Access to data from various areas 3 3 9
1.21 Equipment history 3 3 9
1.22 Simple login process 4 4 16
1.23 Speed 4 4 16
1.24 Customisable screens 4 3 12
 99

1.25 Resourcing 4 4 16
1.26 Alternative Languages 4 4 16
1.27 Overall ease of use 4 4 16
1.28 Innovation and change 3 3 9
1.29 Easy to understand 3 3 9
1.30 Presentation 3 3 9
Total 107 101 363
A B C
Efficiency = C/(A*4)*100 84.81%

Section 2 - Application Support for Name of the

GEX Connect
various functions in the Unit software

Application Support for various Your Total (your W/F

Ref. Score
functions in the Unit W/F * Score )

2.1 Marketing ( Pre Sales)

Enquiry 4 4 16

Quotation 3 4 12

Follow up - buyer ratings 3 4 12

Communication - summary /status 4 4 16

2.2 Sales Order Processing ( post sales)

Bulk, Sample, Job orders 4 3 12

Order Tracking 4 3 12

Order Amendments/cancellation 4 4 16
 100

Technical review, 4 4 16

Order Grouping, Shipment status 3 4 12

2.3 Planning and Scheduling (T & A)

Planning document 2 4 8

Process Sequence 3 4 12

Allocation to Jobs ( skill matrix ) 2 3 6

BOM status 3 4 12

Fabric/Yarn Consumption 4 3 12

Order budget/Actuals 3 4 12

2.4 Purchase and Stores

Purchase Order handling and status 4 4 16

Goods received details 3 3 9

Invoice details 3 4 12

Quality inspection details 3 3 9

Supplier rating 4 4 16

Debit and credit note 3 3 9

2.41 Raw Material Store

 101

Opening stock updates 2 4 8

Requisitions in and out 3 4 12

Stock transfer 3 4 12

Isuues to process and production 4 3 12

2.5 Process Management

Process orders, issues, receipts, returns 3 4 12

Quality and inspection 4 3 12

Debit and credit note 3 4 12

2.6 Production and Floor management

Material Inward 4 3 12

Fabric Consumption plan/details 3 4 12

Bundling 4 4 16

Cut garments Stock 4 4 16

Components Tracking 3 4 12

Damaged Fabric Stock 4 3 12

2.61 Printing/Embroidery/Other Stages 4 4 16

2.62 Sewing
 102

Capacity Planning 3 4 12

Line allocation 4 3 12

Line issues/Bundles 4 3 12

Line production 4 4 16

Rejections 3 4 12

Issues/receipts statements 4 3 12

Capacity vs production details 4 4 16

Daily Production Summary 4 3 12

2.63 Finishing / WIP finishing 3 4 12

2.64 Checking / Ironing / Packing / Despatch

Piece issues / receipts 3 4 12

Packing entry 4 4 16

Despatch details 4 4 16

Returns and damages details 4 4 16

2.65 Quality and inspection

Size set 3 4 12

Accessory inspection 3 4 12
 103

2.7 Shipment and Documents

Shipping Bill /Invoice 3 4 12

Payment Pending 4 4 16

Buyer Payment/Discounts 3 4 12

Letter of credit 4 4 16

2.8 Asset Management

Asset Inward Details 4 4 16

Asset allocation / Transfer 3 4 12

Service Records 4 3 12

Caliberation 3 4 12

Disposal / depreciation 4 3 12

Warranty / AMC 3 4 12

2.90 Personal Management

Employee records 4 3 12

Allowance/deduction 4 3 12

Payslip 3 3 9

Loans and advances 3 3 9

 104

2.91 Financial Management (tally 7.2)

Ledger 4 3 12

Balance sheet 3 4 12

Vouchers 4 3 12

Trail balance 3 4 12

Sales / Purchase 4 3 12

Section 2 Total 239 252 867

A B C

Efficiency = C/(A*4)*100 90.69 %

Section3 - Administration and Name of the

GEX Connect
Security software

Administration and security Total (your W/F *

Ref. Your W/F Score
Assessments Score )

3.1 Ease of use 4 4 16

3.2 Tabular selection 3 4 12
3.3 Password 4 4 16
3.4 Individuals and group settings 3 4 12
3.5 Audit trial 4 4 16
3.6 Customisation 2 3 6
 105

Section 3 Total 20 23 78
A B C
Efficiency = C/(A*4)*100 97.5%

Name of the GEX

Section 4 - Reports
software Connect

Total (your W/F

Ref. Reports and statistical output Your W/F Score
* Score )

4.1 Ease to access to reports 4 4 16

4.2 Data export capability 2 4 8
4.3 Customisable reports 2 4 8
4.4 Format of reports (graphical/text) 3 4 12
Section 4 Total 11 16 44
A B C
Efficiency = C/(A*4)*100 100%

Section 5 - Web Based

Name of the software GEX Connect
Software
Total (your W/F *
Ref. Web based Assessments Your W/F Score
Score )
5.1 Purchase of rent 4 3 12
5.2 Data ownership 4 4 16
5.3 Functionality 4 4 16
5.4 Response Speed 4 4 16
5.5 Company stability 4 4 16
5.6 Cost analysis 4 3 12
5.7 Internet access 4 3 12
5.8 Customisation 2 3 6
 106

Section 5 Total 30 28 106

A B C
Efficiency = C/(A*4)*100 88.33 %

Section 6 - Vendor and Vendor

Name of the software GEX Connect
Support

Vendor assessment and Total (your W/F *

Ref. Your W/F Score
support provision Score )

6.1 Stability 4 4 16
6.2 Professionalism 4 4 16
6.3 Service level agreement 4 4 16
6.4 Provision of customisation 2 4 8
6.5 Upgrade path 3 3 9
6.6 Customer base 3 4 12
6.7 Support for add-ons 4 4 16
Section 6 Total 24 27 93
A B C
Efficiency = C/(A*4)*100 96.875 %

Section 7 - Software and other

Name of the software GEX Connect
Costs

Cost of the software and Total (your W/F *

Ref. Your W/F Score
associated costs Score )

7.1 Cost of software 4 4 16

7.2 Cost of hardware 4 4 16
7.3 Potential future cost 3 3 9
7.4 Implementation cost 4 3 12
7.5 Training cost 3 4 12
7.6 Cost of customisation 3 3 9
Section 7 Total 21 21 74
A B C
 107

Efficiency = C/(A*4)*100 88.10 %

Final Scores

Section Description Efficiencies

1 Overall Software Requirements 84.81%
Application Support for various functions in
2 90.69%
the Unit
3 Administration and Security 97.50%

4 Reports 100.00%
5 Web Based Software 88.33%
6 Vendor and Vendor Support 96.88%
7 Software and Associated Costs 88.10%
8 FINAL EFFICIENCY 92.33%
 108

Appendix IX
Plant Layout Evaluation format​

Plant Layout: Area Details

Name of the
Organizatio
n: ECC-1 Location: Bangalore, Karnataka
Total Floor
Land Plot Area - All
Size (sq. Plinth Area Floors (Sq.
meters): 12,141 (sq. meters): 4075.65 m.): 7066.50

PERCENT
OF AISLES
TOTAL PERCENT OF PERCENT OF
OR
AREA ACTIVITY AREAS IN AREA (sq.
AREA ALLOCATED PASSAGES
ALLOCAT- AREA / EVERY meter) PER
FOR EACH ACTIVITY AREA TO
ED FOR TOTAL AREA DEPARTMEN WORKERS IN
IN VARIOUS TOTAL
EACH OF EVERY T TO TOTAL EACH
DEPARTMENTS AREA IN
DEPARTM DEPARTMEN AREA OF DEPARTMENT
EVERY
-ENT T. PLANT
DEPARTME
NT.
Department/A Area (sq.
ctivity meters)
Fabric Store
Quarantine
Area 43.20 5%
Fabric Storage 406.30 48%
Relaxation 839.95 13.32% 12% 5.60
Rack 37.80 5%
Aisles 111.90 13%
Data Entry 240.50 29%

Sampling
Pattern making 3.30 7%
Design section 2.50 6%
Embroidery
Machine 24.2 45.3466 53%
Aisles 9.20 20% 20% 1% 3.02
Data entry 1.36 3%
CAD Machine 4.6.4 10%
 109

Cutting
Spreading/​
Cutting 570.02 67%
Ticketing/​
Bundling 14.40 2%
Fusing 12.68 1%
849.528 7% 12% 4.57
Aisles 60.39 7%
Checking 84.80 10%
CNC Machine 78.80 9%
Heat Transfer
Machine 25.2 3%

Cutting
Supermarket
Cut Panel
Storage 310.98 85%
366.52 6% 5% 7.64
Aisles 22.5 6%
Sorting Area 33.6 9%

Sewing (5
floors)
Sewing 2697.5 54%
Ideal Machines 211.25 4%
Checking
Table 130 3%
4965.15
Aisles 149.85 3% 3% 70% 4.21
Ironing table 1260 25%
Helper table 225 5%
Loading Table 270 5%

Plant Layout: Material Handling Details

Methods and In–out points
Material flow
carriage capacity and its impact
frequency, and
per hour when on flow
duration
pick layout Comment on the
No Observati Frequenc Length Overall synergy
Depart-​
. of on y of max/min of between Activity
ment
In-​ regarding Moveme different laps location + MH +
Duration
Method Capacity Ou Impact on nt Building Plan
(in mins)
t layout and (moveme
Poi material nts per
nts flow hour)
 110

Manual
Store Unloadi 700 rolls 1 positive 75 1.25 5 1 good
ng

10
Manual
Sampling garment/ 2 positive 100 2 3 1 good
Sewing
day

Manual
Shifting
/
20
Cutting Cutting 4 positve 150 5 10 3 good
patterns
done at
same
place

18 cut
Sewing Trolleys 1 positive 20 15 25 10 good
panels

Plant Layout: Building Structural Study

Area (Sq. meter) of windows available
Relationship
Finishing for Area (Sq. meter) of floor area in
between
Structural span Materials : every department
structural
in both Structural for Floor / Area of
span and Window area
direction and its materials Roof / Windows
arrangement as %age of
relevance Walls / Department in
of activities / total area of
Openings Departme
departments Department
nt

Machine Fabric Store 8.4 1

Well connected
Warehouse had
fabric, trims
opposite opening, Trims Store 6.3 1.57
store with Reinforced
which was time
cutting area Concrete, Steel, Normal Cutting
consuming, and
and Brick and Wall Paint Department 21 2.47
required more
supermarket Mortar
labour. Cutting
for better
Everything else Supermarket 6.3 1.72
accessibility.
was good.
Sewing
Department 210 4.2
 111

Plant Layout: Feedback Observations

Sr.
Layout Aspects Observation
No.

Comment on Suitability of Plant Layout for the

1
production process and also with building types.

Very Suitable
Space Utilization

How effectively is the available space being utilized?

2 Are there any areas that are underutilized or
overcrowded?
Optimum Space Utilisation as
per order quantity

Judgmental comfort level – department wise and over all

3
(Consider level of illumination, thermal comfort etc.)
Good Ventilation, Sufficient
Sunlight as well as Tubelight

Quality of Internal Environment (including quality of air,

4
general cleanliness, etc.)
Good Air Quality and floors
Comfort and Safety regularly cleaned.

5 Are there any safety hazards in the current layout?

No.
Yes, aisles clear of
Are the aisles/passages are clear of an obstruction? obstructions and easily
6 Are emergency exits and safety equipment easily accessible emergency exits.
accessible? Fire extinguishers in every
department

How easily can the layout be adjusted to accommodate

7
changes in production volume or new product lines?
Flexibility and Very Easily
Scalability
Are utility connections (like power, air, and water)
8
flexible enough to support layout changes?
Yes.
 112

Conclusion

This internship at Gokaldas Exports Limited provided invaluable hands-on experience across
the entire garment production process, from order placement to final dispatch. Documenting
each department's activities, including Fabric Storage, Sampling, Sewing, Finishing, and
Dispatch, with flowcharts and images, significantly deepened our understanding of the industry's
complexity and coordination. We are immensely grateful for the exceptional support and
practical guidance provided by the employees, whose expertise made this a truly enriching
learning journey. This experience has not only broadened our professional understanding of
garment manufacturing but also instilled a profound appreciation for the dedication and hard
work that goes into creating quality apparel.