A Beginner’s Guide to
Japanese Fermentation
Healthy Home-Style Recipes Using Shio Koji, Amazake,
Brown Rice Miso, Nukazuke Pickles & Much More!
T U T T LE Publishing
Tokyo Rutland, Vermont Singapore
CONTENTS
Welcome to the World of Japanese
Fermentation! 6
The Basics
Old-Fashioned Salty Miso 7
Homemade Shio Koji 8
Amazake, Concentrated Type 10
Homemade Brown Rice Miso 12
White Chickpea Miso 14
Shirasaki’s Fermentation Secrets 16
Fermented Foods to Keep on Hand 18
A Few Rules (or Lack of Rules) 20 Clockwise from top: Clams Simmered in Amazake,
Clear Soup with Clam Stock, Mitsuba Rice.
PART 1
Spring and Summer Meals Clam Miso Soup with Mixed Grain
Sautéed Marinated Salmon with Rice and Hot Snap Pea Broccoli Salad
Hot Salad of Sugar Snap Peas and
Fermented Onion Soup Broccoli 28
Fermented Onion Paste 23 Clam and White Miso Turmeric Soup 29
Tender Sautéed Salmon with Fermented Mixed Grain Rice 29
Onion Sauce 24 Amazake French Dressing 29
Fermented Onion Soup 25
Fermented Onion Salad Dressing 25
Seafood Steamed in Miso and Wine
Crispy Fried Tuna with Vegetables, with Watercress Rice and Crudités
Sea Bream and Clams Steamed in White
Sesame Rice and Miso Soup Miso and Wine 31
Rice with Black Sesame Salt 26 Watercress Rice 31
Fried Shio Koji Marinated Tuna Nuggets White Miso Lemon Dip Crudités 31
with Asparagus 27
Radish and Sweet Onion Quick Pickled in
Shio Koji 27
Sweet Onion and Radish Leaf Miso Soup 27
Rice Bran Pickles and Natto Fritters Mirin Pickles with
Easy Rice Bran Pickles (Nukazuke) 33 Amazake Fruit Yogurt
Delicious Natto and Green Bean Fritters 34 Amazake Fruit Yogurt 46
Mountain Yam White Miso Soup 35 Homemade Mirin Pickles 47
Mixed “Black” Rice 35 Pickled Beans, Burdock Root and
Mushrooms 47
Clams Simmered in Amazake with Pickled Bell Pepper and Onion 47
Pickled Bean Tapanade 47
Mitsuba Rice and Clam Stock with Tofu
Clam Stock with Tofu 36
Clams Simmered in Amazake 37
Plum Miso Octopus with Ginger Rice,
Mitsuba Rice 37 Kudzu Tofu and Zucchini Miso Soup
Refreshing Plum or Apricot Miso 49
Mackerel and Amazake Curry White Sesame Kudzu Tofu 50
Octopus and Cucumber with Plum Miso 51
with Iced Lemon Lassi Zucchini and Aburaage Miso Soup 51
Mackerel and Amazake Curry 39 Ginger Rice 51
Amazake Lemon Lassi Drink 39
Seafood Soy Milk Yogurt Curry
with Lemon Rice and Yogurt
Marinated Cabbage
Homemade Soy Milk Yogurt 41
Seafood and Soy Milk Yogurt Curry 42
Red Cabbage Marinated in Yogurt 43
Lemon Rice 43
Kimchi and Tofu Rice Bowl with
Vegetable Miso Soup
Homemade Cabbage Amazake Kimchi 45
Spring Vegetable Miso Soup 45
Kimchi and Tofu Rice Bowl 45
Mackerel and Amazake Curry
Soba with Green Chili Miso and
Eggplant Sautéed in Ume Vinegar
Fragrant Green Chili Miso 53
Green Chili Miso, Spinach and Natto
Soba Noodles 54
Eggplant Sautéed in Ume Vinegar 55
Mixed Vegetable Sushi Rice and Tofu
Topped with Fermented Ginger
Sushi Rice with Fermented Ginger and
Mixed Vegetables 57
Tofu Topped with Fermented Ginger 57 Sea Bream and Pickled Daikon Sushi,
Fermented Myoga Ginger and Regular Clear Soup with Broccolini
Ginger 57
Sea Bream and Pickled Daikon Root Vegetable Miso Soup with
Sushi with Clear Broccolini Soup Millet Rice and Miso Pickles
Crunchy Dried Daikon Pickled Root Vegetable Soup with Miso 69
with Amazake 59 Diced Vegetables Pickled in Miso 69
Sea Bream and Pickled Daikon Sushi 60 Glutinous Millet Rice 69
Clear Soup with Broccolini 61
Panfried Fish and Vegetables Marinated
PART 2 in Sake Lees with Bean Sprout Soup
Fall and Winter Meals Sake Lees Pickling Base (Kasudoko) 71
Panfried Fish Marinated in Sake Lees 72
Tofu and Shiitake Bibimbap with Vegetables Pickled in Sake Lees 73
Korean Style Vegetables and Leek Soup Bean Sprout and Sake Lees Soup 73
Homemade Amazake Gochujang 65
Tofu and Shiitake Mushroom Bibimbap 66 Creamy Oysters Sautéed in Sake Lees
White Leek Soup 66
and Soy Milk with Peppers Marinated
Four Types of Namul 67
in Ume Vinegar
Sake Lees Paste 75
Creamy Oysters Sautéed in Sake Lees
and Soy Milk 77
Bell Peppers Marinated in Ume Vinegar 77
Mushroom and Oyster Turmeric Rice Tempeh Teriyaki with Brown Rice
with Marinated Mushrooms and and Umeboshi Seaweed Soup
Vegetable Mushroom Soup Homemade Fermented Mayonnaise 93
Mushrooms Marinated in Shio Koji 79 Tempeh Teriyaki 94
Mushroom and Oyster Turmeric Rice 80 Umeboshi and Kombu Seaweed Soup 95
Mushroom Vegetable Soup 81
Greens with Marinated Mushrooms 81 Tofu Cheese Salad with Creamy
Kabocha Soy Milk Soup
Stir-Fried Pickled Greens with Millet Tofu Cheese Salad 96
Rice, Natto and Mackerel and Daikon Shio Koji Tofu Cheese 97
Sake Lees Soup Creamy Kabocha Soy Milk Soup 97
Salted Pickled Greens 83
Stir-Fried Pickled Greens 85 Shio Koji Potatoes Gratin with
Mackerel and Daikon Sake Lees Soup 85 Vegetable Lentil Soup and Quick Pickles
Shio Koji White Sauce 99
Panfried Swordfish with Spicy Miso, Shio Koji Potatoes Gratin 100
Cucumber Salad, Okra Miso Soup and Red Cabbage and Radish Quick Pickles 101
Barley Rice Lentil and Napa Cabbage Shio Koji
Tomato Soup 101
Spicy Miso Sauce 87
Panfried Swordfish with Lettuce Leaves
and Spicy Miso 88 Salmon and Napa Cabbage with
Barley Rice 88 Fermented Aromatic Chili Oil
Cucumber Salad 89 Salmon and Napa Cabbage
Spicy Okra Miso Soup 89 Hot Pot 103
Fermented Aromatic Chili Oil 103
Mackerel Simmered in Sake with
Pickled Greens, Sweet Potato Rice and Recipe Index by Ingredient 104
Root Vegetable Soy Milk Miso Soup Your Fermentation Pantry 108
Greens Pickled in Rice Bran 90
Fermented Foods Are All You Need! 111
Mackerel Simmered in Sake and
Fermented Rice Bran 91
Daikon and Carrot Miso Soy Milk Soup 91
Sweet Potato Rice 91
Welcome to the World of Japanese Fermentation!
Many people assume that fermented foods are difficult to make, but they
couldn’t be more wrong. Using a few tried-and-true shortcuts, you can
prepare a range of healthy superfoods that in the end will save you time.
Many of the foods keep in the fridge for a long time, so make a batch to have
on hand. As the fermentation process continues, the flavors change, growing
deeper and more complex.
What about store-bought fermented foods and ingredients? Sure, it’s
always an option to pick up commercially produced miso, shio koji and
amazake, but using my easy techniques, you’ll soon prefer you own home-
made concoctions. They typically taste better and the nutritional benefits
Fermented foods can play a range of roles—both starring and support-
ing—in your daily diet. The benefits are manifold. Your dishes and meals
will not only brim with taste and flavor, but it’s the long-term health benefits
that will keep you coming back for more. Key to maintaining gut health, the
high-performing probiotics and mighty microbes of fermented foods are the
essential elements for internal balance and better digestion.
Using simple ingredients and easy-to-follow preparation methods, you
can quickly create complex flavor profiles and unleash the nutritive power
of fermented foods. The sample menus included here are just the beginning.
Soon you’ll be adapting your own recipes, substituting your healthy D.I.Y.
ferments in new and surprisingly tasty ways.
—Hiroko Shirasaki
6 Introduction
The Basics
Old-Fashioned Salty Miso
Miso prepared four years
ago. It’s turned a little dark.
There are many forms of miso, each has its own merits and particular uses. But if I had to
choose my personal favorite, classic salty miso would be my go-to option every time.
Among at-home fermenters, sweet miso is cer- with koji-based miso, this version doesn’t become
tainly growing in popularity. It typically contains watery and the rice doesn’t get dry.
more rice koji than beans. Or you can simply This fantastic ferment also keeps in the fridge
mix in a generous portion of amazake to turn for a long time. Miso that has turned dark over
old-fashioned salty miso into its sweeter alter ego. time is delicious in a stir-fry or stirred into a sauce.
In smaller doses, amazake offsets the saltiness of Even more magical, you can use the leftovers as
traditional miso, balancing it while also adding a a starter for the next batch. Just add a little bit to
pleasing complexity to the flavors it imparts. the new preparation to kick-start the fermentation
Long-lasting, resistant to mold or rapid spoil- process and to keep the miso mold-free.
age, miso is high in protein and brings a new To make salty miso, the ratio of rice koji to beans
flexibility and freedom to some of the traditional is 1:1, and sea salt is half the ratio of beans. In other
dishes you love. Onigiri (or rice balls) coated in words, ½ cup (100 g) of beans requires ½ cup (100 g)
salty miso are delicious! Unlike the ones made of koji and 2¾ tablespoons (50 g) of sea salt.
7
Homemade Shio Koji
Shio koji intensifies the flavor of any ingredient, a power pairing that makes your dishes even
more delicious!
Shio koji is gaining in popularity as a substitute drying out. After it’s been stored for several days,
seasoning that enhances flavor and taste in place the water will evaporate, so be sure to keep your
of salt. It requires only salt and dried rice koji to developing ferment well-hydrated.
produce, so why not try my favorite preparation Shio koji can be used in a variety of tasty ways.
and whip up a quick batch of this versatile sea- Whether with vegetables, meat or fish, mixing
soning? If you have a simple yogurt maker, you or marinating your chosen ingredients quickly
can set some going before you head to bed. Come in shio koji will lift the level of their flavors. Use
morning, you’ll have the a thick, slightly sweet it as a seasoning for fried chicken or a base for
shio koji ready to power pack your favorite foods. quick pickles. Add it to your favorite soup or to a
If you’re preparing shio koji at room tempera- béchamel sauce for gratin. The recipes and ideas
ture, the key is to add water to keep the koji from presented in here are just the beginning.
8 The Basics
Shelf life: 1 MONTH IN THE
REFRIGERATOR NOTE Dried rice koji is easy to
obtain year-round from Asian or
1 cup (200 g) dried rice koji Japanese markets, health food
1¼ cups (300 ml) water stores and online. If you’re able
4 tablespoons (70 g) sea salt to find fresh rice koji, use a little
less water for this recipe.
Instructions
1 2
Crumble the dried rice koji, separating it with your Add the water, mix well and let stand at room
hands, then place it into a clean preserving container temperature.
and add the salt.
If you have a yogurt maker, you can
make shio koji by combining all the
3
ingredients in a container and
Mix it well once a day. Add more water if the mixture maintaining the temperature
dries out. It’s ready at room temperature in about a at 140°F (60°C) for 6 hours
week in the summer and after two weeks in the winter. without adding water.
9
Amazake, Concentrated Type
Amazake fuses the natural sweetness of rice with the tangy pop of umami to impart new
depths of fermented flavor to your dishes.
There are two main types of amazake: white rice rice and water in a heavy saucepan, cool it to
and brown rice. The version made from white 140°F (60°C), then stir in the rice koji. Remove
rice is milder and suitable for making desserts the pan from the heat, wrap it in a towel to keep
and sweets, while richly flavored brown-rice it warm and occasionally put it back on low heat
amazake is useful for general cooking. To make to maintain a consistent low-graade temperature.
this thick and smooth seasoning, all you need When it’s ready, it can be pureed in a blender to
is a yogurt maker to produce the concentrated produce this smooth and slightly sweet season-
form of amazake used as the basis for many of ing. If you want prefer your amazake in beverage
the recipes included here. form, just mix 1 part amazake to 2 parts water or
If you don’t have a yogurt maker, simply boil carbonated water and enjoy!
10 The Basics
