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Stitch Guide
Most Common Stitch Types in ASTM D-6193 and ISO 4915:1991 Standards
This quick reference guide is to help communication between designers, production managers and sewing contractors. The guide is freely distributed.
Images courtecy of www.garmento.org, www.wikipedia.org, www. merrow.com First Edition October 17, 2007 Second Editon June 3, 2008
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ASTM D-6193
101
ISO
ISO# 101 Chainstitch
Stitch formed by a needle thread passing through the material and interlooping with itself on the underside of the seam.
103
ISO# 103 Blindstitch
104 Blindstitch
301
Stitch is formed with one needle thread which interloops with itself on the top surface of the material. The thread passes through the top ply and horizontally through portions of the bottom ply.
One thread Blinstitch for hemming, See page 4
ISO# 301 Lockstitch
Stitch formed by a needle thread passing through the material and interlocking with a bobbin thread. Threads are meeting in the center of the seam. Stitch appear the same on the top as well as the bottom.
ISO# 301 Twin Needle Lockstitch
Same s 301 except that two rows of stitch are formed. Common needle spacing is 1/4 (6mm) however, the machines are available from 3/16 up to 1(6-25mm)
304
ISO# 304 Zig Zag
Lockstitch is formed with a needle and bobbin thread forming a symmetrical zig zag pattern. This stitch is also used in bartacking and lockstitch buttonsewing and buttonholing.
401
ISO# 401 -Chainstitch
Stitch formed by 1 needle thread and being interlooped with 1 looper thread that is set on the underside of the seam.
ISO# 401 Twin Needle Chainstitch
Stitch formed by 2 needle threads being interlooped with 2 looper threads, forming 2 independent rows of stitch set.
406
ISO# 406 Bottom Coverstitch
Stitch formed by 2 needle threads passing through the material and interlooping with 1 looper thread with the stitch set on the underside of the seam. Looper thread interlooped between needle threads, providing seam coverage on the bottom side.
407
ISO# 407 Bottom Coverstitch
Stitch formed by 3 needle threads passing through the material and interlacing with 1 looper thread with the stitch set on the underside of the seam. Looper thread is interlooped between needle threads, providing seam coverage on the bottom side only.
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ASTM D-6193
503
ISO
ISO# 503 Overedge
Formed by 1 needle thread and 1 looper thread producing a purl on the edge of the seam. Use: serging or blindhemming.
504
ISO# 504 Overedge
Formed by 1 needle thread and 2 looper threads producing a purl on the edge of the seam. Use: overedge seaming and serging.
505
ISO# 505 Overedge
Formed by 1 needle thread and 2 looper threads forming a double purl on the edge of the seam. Use: serging
512
ISO# 512 Overedge
Stitch formed with 2 needle threads and 2 looper threads with the looper threads forming a purl on the edge of the seam. 512-right needle only enters the upper looper loop.
514
ISO# 514 Overedge
Formed with 2 needle threads and 2 looper threads with the looper threads forming a purl on the edge of the seam. 514-both needles enter the upper looper loop.
516
ISO# 516 Safety Stitch
5-thread safety stitch. Combining a singleneedle chainstitch (401) and a 3-thread overedge stitch (504) that are formed simultaneously.
602
ISO# 602 Coverstitch
Formed with 2-needle threads, a top cover thread and a bottom looper thread.
605
ISO# 605 Coverstitch
Formed with 3-needle threads, using a top cover thread and a bottom looper thread.
607
ISO# 607 Coverstitch
Formed with 4-needle threads, a top cover thread and a bottom looper thread.
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ASTM D-6193
One thread Blinstitch for hemming,
202 Handstitch
Chainstitch provides stretchability for knits
205 Handstitch
One Thread True Handstitch for Topstitching
ASTM D-6193 Stitches Not shown in This quide Stitch Class & Thread Count
306 Blindstitch
Two Thread blindstitch
315 Three Step Zig-Zag
Lockstitch zig-zag with more stretch
316 Lockstitch
One Thread lockstitch using autoloading bobbin
502 Overedgestitch
One needle overedge stitch used for serging
515 True Safetystitch
Chainstitch provides stretchability for knits
102 One Thread 105 One Thread 201 Two Thread 203 One Thread 204 One Thread 302 Three Thread 303 Four Thread 305 Three Thread 307 Five Thread 308 Two Thread 309 Three Thread 310 Three Thread 311 Three Thread 312 Three Thread 313 Two Thread 314 Two Thread 402 Three Thread 403 Four Thread 404 Two Thread 405 Three Thread 407 Four Thread 501 One Thread 505 Three Thread 506 Four Thread 507 Four Thread 508 Three Thread 509 Three Thread 510 Two Thread 511 Two Thread 517 Five Thread 518 Four Thread 519 Six Thread 520 Eight Thread 521 Three Thread 522 Four Thread 601 Three Thread 603 Five Thread 604 Six Thread 606 Nine Thread
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104 Blindstitch
Photos: Juki
Single Double Stitched Stitched
Purl Whip Stitching Stitching
Keyhole Buttonhole
Basting Stitch
Joining Stitch Button -Flat
Button Stitches
Button -Shank
Cross Stitch
Four Hole Stitch
Two Hole Stitch
Button Wrapped Label Tacking, Webbing Attachment
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Buttonholes
2-thread, 1/8 wide, 20 stitches per inch, with differential feed: Photo: Merrow
Merrow rolled blanket stich
Purl Stich, Photo: Merrow Sewing Machine Company
Narrow blanket Stitch
3-thread, wide, 7 stitches per inch
4-thread, 5/32 wide, 17 stitches per inch Photo: Merrow Sewing Machine Company
Merrow blanket Stitch
Traditional Blanket Stitch
4-thread, 5/32 wide, 17 stitches per inch, Photo: Merrow
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Types of Overlock Stitches Overlock stitches are classified in a number of ways. The most basic classification is by the number of threads used in the stitch. Industrial overlock machines are generally made in 1, 2, 3, 4, or 5 thread formations. Each of these formations has unique uses and benefits: 1-thread formations are used for end-to-end seaming, or butt-seaming. Two- and three-thread formations, also known as merrowing, are the most common, used for edging and seaming, especially on knits and wovens. Four-thread formations are called mock safety stitches and create extra strength while retaining flexibility. 5-thread formations, which utilize 2 needles, are called safety stitches, creating a very strong seam used for apparel manufacturing. Overlocking is also referred to as overedging, merrowing or serging. Though serging technically refers to overlocking with cutters, in practice the four terms are used
Crochet Shell Stitches 22-FJ Large Shell
22-FJ
27-FJ
27FJ
35-FJ Small Shell
35-FJ
Crochet Stitches 15-CA-1
17-F
18-A
18-E
18-G
18-S
Dewellton LLC, Helsinki, TexUp O, Estonia, Wapductions Inc. New York
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Dewellton LLC, Helsinki, TexUp O, Estonia, Wapductions Inc. New York
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