Halftrack FlaK

By Robert Oehler

Pic 1: Overall view of gun and trailer in travelling configuration.

As early as 1933 Krauss Maffei AG were recognised as the pioneers of German half-track development. By 1934 they had created a number of successful designs in their outstanding prime mover series that were deemed suitable to serve as self-propelled gun carriages. One of these designs, the final derivative KM m 11, was built to serve as a mount for a variety of anti-aircraft guns. Two of the more prolific selfpropelled anti-aircraft production types based on this design were the Sd.Kfz. 7/1, which mounted the famous quadruple, 2cm Flak 38, Flakvierling and the Sd.Kfz 7/2, which mounted the 3.7cm Flak 36. The latter, and the focus of this article, had a combat weight of 11.05 tons, which comprised the weight of the vehicle, armament, ancillary ordnance, equipment, the seven-man crew and ready use ammunition.

The Kit
Tamiya's model of the Sd.Kfz 7/2 is an ageing kit dating back to 1989. While this kit doesn't meet Tamiya's current detail standards, it is still a fine kit and an excellent subject for super detailing. Assembly of the kit was straightforward enough, though I found that careful test-fitting and sanding quickly cared for any possibility of alignment issues, especially around the hood and armoured cab. Aside from the road wheels and gun there were very few corrections that needed to be made, leaving me to focus on some aftermarket and scratch-built enhancements.

Details
Several different manufacturers' detail sets were used on the model. The cab floor, step-up treads and battery box were taken from the Eduard Sd.Kfz 7 set in addition to the scratch-built dashboard. I decided to add the dashboard because sheet metal was, on occasion, added to the dash area by the crew who were always on the lookout for additional stowage. Pic. 2, Pic. 3, Pic. 4

Pic 2 to 4: Finished model before painting. In these views one can clearly see all of the brass, plastic and white metal enhancements on the SdKfz 7/2. Note: These photos shows the kit wheels which were later replaced in favour of those made by Tank Workshop and the enhancement to the front of the vehicle as described in the text.
Overall, two Model Kasten Sd.Kfz 7/2 photo-etched sets were used. One set of parts was used on the gun shield and the other for the fold-down 'fighting platform' on the back deck. The screens from the Model Kasten set for the back deck were straightforward and only required some additional bolt detail on either side of each hinge. The gun, however, was an entirely different story. To ensure that each facet of the gun shield would remain firmly in place, I decided to solder all parts. While this method achieved the desired result, to attempt it again would surely result in insanity! Throughout the course of this endeavour, I used components of the Model Kasten as well as the Eduard sets. Notice the different nickel

and brass colours in the unfinished photograph of the gun in the photos. After several hours of soldering and re-soldering (and more than a few varied epithets) I was able to work out a way to insulate finished portions of the shield with clay, in addition to using varying temperatures of solder. When I was satisfied with the alignment of all of the shield components each joint was carefully sanded with 800 grit paper and the plastic bolt detail (produced from a punch and die set) was carefully positioned using cyanoacrylate glue. The front wheels are from The Tank Workshop and Model Kasten vehicle width indicators were placed on the front fenders along with some added extra bolt detail. Plastic sprue was added to outside edge of each fender in an effort to simulate the 'lip' that appears on the real vehicle. One of the roof hatches was cut out and opened up, and head pads were placed on the interior of each, with photo-etched hinges and handles. Several details were also added to the gun. In addition to replacing the entire gun shield, the muzzle f l ash suppresser was carefully reduced from a resin piece I had in my spare parts box. Finally, the Notek light and headlights were pirated from the Tamiya Steyr 1500A kit. Those of you familiar with this vehicle probably noticed my unfortunate error. After I finished the model, I discovered several photos, which display the rear view mirror configuration more clearly than the references I was using. After seeing these references, it is clear that the mirror on my model is wrong. It should be set on the armoured cab directly in front of the drivers' door.

Wheels and Tracks

The road wheels are from the Model Kasten set and the drive sprocket and tracks are Fruilmodel. The road wheels were given a 'roughing-up' with a ball tip and my Dremel tool to simulate a worn/used look. The Fruilmodel tracks were the old type that need be crimped together with a small electrician's screwdriver. This was carefully done using the small jig provided with the tracks. No clean up was needed on these tracks and after construction, they were given several coats of red oxide automotive primer. After drying overnight, the tracks were then given a coat of a lightened, Tamiya Red Brown XF64 to represent rusted areas. Then a light tan dry-brush mixture of Winsor & Newton Burnt Sienna and white oil paint was created. After carefully rubbing the paint off of the brush onto a paper towel, I dipped the brush into a small bit S&J Spray Metal Polishing Powder (aluminium). I rubbed the brush on a paper towel again until it was almost clean. Then, I carefully dry-brushed the mixture onto the tracks to highlight the worn metal areas. The track pads were painted a grey-black with a touch of brown and flat earth was lightly sprayed over the surfaces.

The Trailer
The trailer (known officially as the Sonder Anhanger 56 or 'special trailer 56') was scratch-built based on several photographs. My reference material suggested a number of inconsistencies between trailers of the same configuration indicating that many of these trailers were possibly field built and or modified. It appears that these gun limbers were converted to ammunition trailers as a matter of course. The chassis for the trailer is the limber from the Tamiya 3.7cm Flak gun (kit no. 35145). Also, I noticed that the wheels of the trailers were almost an exact match with those of the Tamiya Steyr 1500A (Kit No. 35225). Using comparative measurements in scale from the photographs, I scratch-built the trailer box and access doors. Most of the hinges for the access doors were fashioned from Evergreen plastic and stretched sprue with the exception of the top hinge, taken from an Eduard hinge set. The latches and padlocks were taken from separate Eduard and Royal Models sets respectively. Pic. 5, Pic. 6, Pic. 7, Pic. 8, Pic. 9

Pic 5: Note the kill markings on the inner gun shield. Pic 6 & 7: The unpainted gun; the soldered joints and different types of photo-etch are evident. Pic 8: Underside of the vehicle provides a clear view of the scratchbuilt storage bins as well as the simulated grass and mud described in the text. Pic 9: Fruilmodel's beautiful cast white metal tracks prior to painting.

A Word on Paints and Airbrushes

I have been using an airbrush for nearly 20 years. During this time, I have tried almost every brush on the market. I currently own eight different brushes! What I've discovered in my search for the finest spray pattern is the dual action airbrush with the matched headset design. The pre-eminent company that features this design is the Japanese company, B.B. Rich. Brushes currently manufactured by B.B. Rich include the Tamiya and Iwata airbrush lines. The matched headset design requires more precision in the machining process, but results in a needle/nozzle combination that offers the most control availableand that's the name of the game. One of the things that I have found curious about our hobby is the modeller who invests large sums of money on kits and then gets 'cheap' when it comes to tools (primarily the airbrush) only to complain later about the over-all results. To me, it makes sense that my father's espoused adage related to carpentry is true for models as well: "You're only as good as your tools." With this in mind, I invested in, and still use, the Tamiya HG airbrush for general coverage and highlights on medium to large areas. The Tamiya HG Superfine is my brush of choice when it comes to detail and fine lines. I find that the combination of Tamiya thinner and acrylic XF (flat) colours for me to be the perfect combination for airbrush work. Tamiya paints are specifically formulated for airbrush use and as a result they enable the modeller to spray with maximum control at an air pressure as low as 12 PSI.

Painting and Weathering

The paint process began by spraying the entire vehicle Tamiya Red Brown XF64 (a ratio of 70:30 paint to thinner). I use this colour because it is the closest Tamiya colour (in tone) to the primer used by the Germans. I followed by spraying Dark Yellow XF60 by highlighting the inner portions of each panel, carefully leaving a darker yellow/brown edge. When finished, this panel-highlight look presents an overall dark yellow vehicle with darkened edges at the panel lines. Next, I began with the camouflage. Since this was a late war vehicle with a heavily mottled three-colour scheme (patterned after a photograph of 4 Batterie 12th SS), I was interested in a dark look with a great deal of contrasting highlights. To do this, I began laying in the camouflage with Tamiya Red Brown XF64 using the 'scribble method.' I call it the 'scribble method' because it closely resembles a random scribble across the model. The initial scribbles are applied in a small area with very thin paint (40:60 paint to thinner) at a low pressure (about 12-15 psi). Once I am satisfied with the look, I pick out the areas where the scribbles cross with more paint. It is important to carefully watch your efforts when picking out the crossing areas to ensure that the overall look remains random. I then lay in the olive green, in the same fashion, adjacent to the previously applied red brown pattern. Pic. 10, Pic. 11, Pic. 12, Pic. 13,

Pic 10: The vehicle minus the gun, showing the fighting platform to good effect. Twenty-five additional ammo cans were added and weathered to display extra 'stocking-up' by the crew. Granted, due to shortages, this was a very rare occurrence near the end of the war. Pic 11 & 12: The trailer in unpainted plastic with photo-etched brass additions. Pic 13: The crew compartment adorned with the excellent Eduard photo-etch set.
Next, I detail-washed the entire model with black Winsor & Newton oil paint heavily thinned with Turpenoid to pick out the recessed and raised features. This is done by placing the mixture, with a liner brush next to (or into) the detail to be enhanced. Capillary action takes the paint around the detail without any additional assistance. Once the Turpenoid had evaporated, I dry-brushed the entire model using Winsor & Newton Yellow Ochre, Burnt Sienna, and Olive Green. Each of these colours was drybrushed over the corresponding colour previously painted on the vehicle. After drying for a period of four hours the model was sprayed with Tester's Dull-Cote. The Dull-Cote is an extremely important part of this painting style because it works to 'flatten' all of the different layers of paint into one layer adding a degree of depth to the look of the paint. When completely dry, the markings can be applied. I used several of the excellent Stencilit sets for the 12th SS Hitler Jugend Division markings. The numerical markings were decals from the Tamiya Sd.Kfz 7/2 kit. The metallic look on the gun was achieved by spraying the entire surface with Tamiya Flat Black XF1 and then dry-brushing with a mixture of Winsor & Newton White, Burnt Sienna and S&J Aluminium

spray metal polishing powder. Then the entire surface is rubbed with black pastel, re-dry brushed and repeated until a satisfactory look is achieved. Tamiya Smoke X19 is then applied to the surface of the gun to tone the silver and provide a look closer to gunmetal. The final stage was to spray the entire model with Tester's Dull Cote from an airbrush and highlight all of the nut and bolt detail/seams/join lines with black pastel. I also added paint chips and worn areas with Prisma Color pencils. I generally use steel and dark grey and occasionally medium red. Mud was added to the underside of the vehicle including the scratch-built fender boxes. The 'mud' was a mixture of Tamiya putty, Tamiya Flat Earth XF52 acrylic paint and static grass applied in a stippling motion with a shorthaired brush. When it was completely dry, I washed it with a mixture of Turpenoid and Winsor & Newton black.

Pic. 14, Pic. 15, Pic. 16, Pic. 17, Pic. 18

Pic 14: The gun after painting; the feed tray features anti-aircraft as well as armour-piercing rounds. This view also offers a look at the scale thickness of the gun shield. Pic 15: Painted and weathered gun showing the results of the wash. The grey scratches were made using a Prisma Color pencil. Pic 16: Finished gun showing the clean lines of the shield and the bolt detail. Pic 17 & 18: The complete and painted Sd.Anh 56 Ammunition trailer. The locks are from Royal Model.
Conclusion
All in all, this project turned out to be more complicated than expected due to my decision to solder the gun shield. On the other hand, the rest of the work was not particularly complicated and the Model Kasten, Eduard and Friulmodel sets were excellent as usual.

References
Walter J. Spielberger, Gepard The History of German Anti-Aircraft Tanks, ISBN 0-933853-30-4, 1982. Walter J. Spielberger, Die Halbkettenfahrzeuge Des Deutschen Heeres 1909-1945, Band 6, ISBN 387943-403-4, 1989. First published in Military Modelling Vol.31 No.7 2001