Pattern 7539

pattern pieces
A A A A A A A A A A B B B B B B B C C C C C C C 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 Front 1x Front Band 4x Side Front 4x Front Band / Waist 1x Back Blende 2x Back 2x Back Band / Waist 2x Front Skirt Panel 1x Front Overskirt Panel 2x Back Skirt Panel 2x Front Skirt Panel 2x Front Overskirt Panel 2x Bk. Skirt Panel 2x / B Bk. Overskirt Panel 2x Bow 2x Strap 2x Front Hem Band (Lace) 1x Back Hem Band (Lace) 1x
SEAM AND HEM ALLOWANCES must be added to the pattern pieces: 15/8 ins (4 cm) for hem (B 5/8 in / 1.5 cm on overskirt), 5/8 in (1.5 cm) at all other seams and edges except on piece 15 for view C (seam allowance is already included on the pattern piece). Use BURDA carbon paper to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and all other lines and markings to the wrong side of the fabric pieces according to package instructions. INTERFACING Cut interfacing as illustrated and iron on the wrong side of the fabric pieces. Transfer pattern piece outlines to the interfacing pieces. LINING Use pieces 1, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 10 to cut the lining for view A. Use pieces 1, 4, 5, 6, 7, 11 and 13 to cut lining for views B and C. = See pattern sheet for cutting diagrams. Seam and hem allowances must be added to the pattern pieces. No hem allowance, 5/8 in (1.5 cm) at all other seams and edges. Transfer pattern piece outlines to the lining pieces.

BC B BC B C C C

the cutting layouts are on the pattern sheet preparing pattern pieces
Choose your size according to the Burda measurement chart on the pattern sheet: dresses, blouses, jackets and coats according to your bust measurement, pants and skirts according to your hip measurement. Adjust the pattern pieces, if necessary, by adding or subtracting the number of inches that your measurements differ from the measurements given in the Burda chart.

sewing
When sewing, right sides of fabric should be facing. Transfer all pattern lines to the right side of the fabric with basting thread.

ABC

DRESS / Front

1 B: Baste lace pieces on front and back bands, back pieces and
side front pieces with wrong side facing right side. Treat these pieces as one layer of fabric from now on. Illustration shows side front.

ABC
Cut out the following pattern pieces in the required size from the pattern sheet: for the DRESS view A pieces 1 to 10, for the DRESS view B pieces 1 to 7 and 11 to 14, for the DRESS view C pieces 1 to 7, 11, 13 and 15 to 17.

ABC front: Stitch darts on front. Press bust darts down, press waist darts toward center front (2a).

3 C: Stitch darts on front of lace fabric likewise. Lay lace piece on

Side Fronts with Bands (Doubled)

lengthen or shorten pattern pieces

Our pattern is calculated for a height of 5 feet, 6 inches (168 cm). If you are taller or shorter, you may adjust the pattern to fit your size at the lines marked lengthen or shorten here. = Make sure that you adjust all pieces of one model by the same amount at the same lines. How to lengthen and shorten pattern pieces: Cut the pattern pieces along the marked lines. To lengthen, slide the two halves of the pattern piece as far apart as necessary. To shorten, overlap the two halves of the pattern piece as far as necessary. Even out the side edges.

front with wrong side facing right side. Stitch side and lower edges together.

4 A: Cut lace trim (31/2 ins / 9 cm wide) for a right and a left band. Lay

trim on inside edge of front bands as illustrated, making a fold at each corner and pin in place. Sew the fold together by hand and trim on the inside. Baste trim along inside edge of band.

5 ABC: Baste front bands right sides together with side front pieces

(seam number 1) and stitch, clipping banding in each corner close to line of stitching (arrow). Stitch remainder of bands. Trim allowances and press onto side fronts (5a).

6 Lay two side fronts with bands each right sides facing and stitch

cutting out
FOLD ( ) means: Here is the center of a pattern piece but in no case a cut edge or seam. The piece should be cut double, with the fold line forming the center line. Pattern pieces outlined with a broken line in the cutting diagram are to be placed face down on the fabric. The cutting diagrams on the pattern sheet show how the pattern pieces should be placed on the fabric.

outer edges together. For view A, do not catch scalloped edge. Trim allowances, trim corners diagonally. Turn pieces. Baste edges and press. B: Stitch lace trim on front and upper edges of bands, making smalls fold at corners.

7 ABC: Lay

fronts with bands on front pieces with wrong side facing right side, baste lower edges and side edges together. Allowance of front overhangs at the top. Stitch side fronts in line of band joining seam.

8 Baste front waist band right sides together with lower edge of front
(seam number 2) and stitch. Trim allowances and press onto band. ABC Back A: Pin lace trim on back band (piece 5) , baste at lower edge and at side edges.

Fabric I and Fabric II Cut all pieces except piece 12 of fabric I. Also cut pieces 2, 3, 5, 6 and 13 and cut piece 12 of fabric II. = See cutting diagrams on pattern sheet.

9 ABC: Baste back bands (seam number 3) and back waist bands
(seam number 4) right sides together with back pieces, stitch. Trim allowances and press onto bands. Side Seams

Lace Fabric with Two Scalloped Edges Lay piece 1 with the upper edge and pieces 16 and 17 each with the lower edge on the scalloped edges of the lace to cut out. = See cutting diagrams on pattern sheet.

ABC
For a single layer of fabric, the pattern pieces are pinned to the right side. For double layers of fabric, the right sides are facing and the pattern pieces are pinned to the wrong side. Pattern pieces shown in the cutting diagram extending over the fold of the fabric should be cut last from a single layer of fabric.

J Lay back pieces right sides together with front. Baste side seams
(seam number 5) and stitch. Press allowances onto backs.

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Pattern 7539
C Straps Center Back Seam
3 8

K Fold straps lengthwise, right side facing in. Stitch

/ in (1 cm) next to fold edge. Trim allowances. Leave a length of thread hanging, insert into a darning needle and knot securely. Push needle eye first through fabric tube to turn right side out (11a).

{ Lay back skirt panels right sides together. Stitch center seam from
lower edges to slit mark. Lay end of zipper aside to stitch. Secure ends of stitching. B: Stitch back center seam of overksirt likewise. Neaten allowances and press open. SKIRT LINING BC: Stitch center front seam. ABC: Stitch side seams. Neaten allowances and press open. Baste pleats at upper edge as described and illustrated in step 17.

L Measure the middle between center front and side seam. Insert a
straight pin to mark placement of strap spaced 15/8 ins (4 cm) next to this measurement. Baste straps in place on upper edge of front. LINING Stitch darts on front as described and illustrated in step 2. Stitch waist band to front. Stitch upper band and waist band to back.

} Place skirt lining over skirt with wrong sides facing. Baste along

Lay backs on front, stitch side seams (seam number 5). Press allowances onto front and topstitch 3/8 in (1 cm) wide for boning. Line the Bodice

skirt joining seam, matching side seams. Stitch skirt lining along skirt joining seam, laying bodice right sides together with skirt. Sew edges of slit to zipper bands.

Cut boning into two pieces and slip into allowances of bodice side
seams. Turn in bodice lining and sew on at skirt joining seam. Stitch skirt hem as described and illustrated in step 16. AB Lining hem: Press lower edge of lining to inside by 5/8 in (1.5 cm), turn in and baste. Stitch narrow hem. Optional for view A: Sew scalloped edge of lace trim on with hand stitches. C Lace Bands / Lower Edge of Lining Stitch side seams of lace fabric bands. Neaten allowances together and press to one side.

N Lay lining right sides together with bodice. Baste and stitch upper

edges together, not catching front bands or scalloped edge of lace (AC). B: Stitch lace trim on upper edge of back bands, turning in ends at side seams. A FRONT OVERSKIRT

O Turn in lace trim and baste on front overskirt panels at marked line.
Scalloped edge of lace overhangs at FOLD LINE. Baste facing to inside at FOLD LINE, turn in and baste in place. Stich inside edge of facing close to edge, catching lace trim (15a). diagonally in. Press. Stitch hem loosely by hand.

Stitch band right sides together with lower edge of lining. Trim

P Neaten hem on overskirt panels, baste to inside, turn front edges Q Fold pleats on overskirt panels in arrow direction, baste. R Pin overskirt panels on front skirt panel with wrong side facing
right side and matching front edges with marked placement lines. Baste side edges and upper edges together, hem of front skirt panel overhangs. Baste pleats on back skirt panels as described and illustrated in step 17. Side seams: Lab back skirt panels on front skirt panel. Stitch side seams (seam number 6). Neaten allowances together and press onto back skirt panel. B SKIRT / OVERSKIRT Stitch center front seam on skirt. Neaten allowances and press open. Stitch side seams on skirt and overskirt (lace) (seam number 8). Trim allowances, neaten together and press onto back skirt panel. Baste pleats on skirt and overskirt as described and illustrated in step 17.

allowances, neaten together and press up. Try on dress. Pin straps on inside back edge and sew in place by hand. Sew beaded trim to straps by hand. Optional: Sew scalloped edge of lace front at neckline with hand stitches. B Bow

Lay pieces right sides together, stitch center seam to fold line. Secure ends of stitching. Press allowances open and go on to press to inside.

Fold strip on FOLD LINE, right side facing in. Stitch edges together.

Trim allowances, trim corners diagonally. Turn strip. Baste edges, press. Sew up opening in seam by hand. Tie a bow and attach to each side of zipper with a snap fastener on back waist band.

S Overskirt: Trim allowance at front edges and lower edges to 3/16 in

(0.5 cm), neaten and baste to inside. Stitch lace trim on front edges and lower edge, catching allowances.

T Pin overskirt on skirt with wrong side facing right side, matching

side seams. Baste upper edges and back edges together as far as slit mark, neaten together. Clip overskirt panels at slit mark (arrow). C SKIRT Stitch center front and side seams of skirt (seam number 8). Neaten allowances and press open. ABC Attach Skirt

Lay skirt right sides together with bodice. Baste waist seam (seam
number 7), not catching bodice lining. Stitch. Press allowances up. Invisible Zipper You will need a special presser foot for invisible zippers. The zipper should be a bit longer than the opening. It is inserted before stitching the center back seam. Do not catch bodice lining. Catch in overskirt for view B. Neaten back edges of dress.

Open the zipper and pin face down on the allowance at one edge
of the opening. The teeth of the zipper must lie exactly on the marked opening edges. Stitch the zipper with the special presser foot, stitching close to teeth of zipper. Stitch zipper onto other edge likewise (22a). Stitch both edges of opening from the top to the slit mark (arrow). The teeth of an invisible zipper roll inward and are held flat by the special presser foot. Close zipper.

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