With clear, blue skies overhead, the Caribbean Sea at your feet and gourmet meals, luxurious

The beach. The pool. The lobby. Should the mood strike, all make excellent dance floors.8 accommodat ions and upscale amenit ies all
Fly free* to any Almond Resort.
Visit almondresorts.com/flyfree for details. around you, there are countless reasons to celebrate at Almond Resorts. Call soon, and well provide you with yet another- Free air travel to any Almond Resort when you book by February 9, 2007. May we have this dance?

Call your Travel Professional or Almond Vacations at 866 323 2172. www.almondresorts.com/flyfree
ALL- INCLUSIVE R ESORTS: Almond Morgan Bay Resort, St. Lucia Almond Beach Village, St. Peter, Barbados Almond Beach Club Resort & Spa, St. James, Barbados

COMING SOON : Almond Smugglers Cove, St. Lucia ( Opening Feb. 2007 ) Almond Casuarina Beach Resort, Barbados (Opening Mar. 2007)
*Offer valid 1/5 - 5/30/07, based on double occupancy. Subject to availability. Some blackout dates apply. Preset air credit will be applied against land package as determined by tour operator.

REVEALED! SECRET HAWAIIAN BEACHES pg 93

ECO-LUXURY ISSUE

DECEMBER FEBRUARY 2 0 0 07 6

of the 10 worlds

greatest escapes

EXCLUSIVE: Duchess of Yorks Seychelles AMAZING ISLAND GETAWAYS for less than $300
$4.99/CANADA $6.99

I SLANDS.com $4.99/CANADA $6.99

Book Early
SAVE UP TO 20%

ampered elegance and gracious hospitality beckon at Pueblo Bonito Oceanfront Resorts and Spas. Guided by holistic principles, our guests choose from an enticing selection of invigorating signature spa, salon treatments and rejuvenating Natura Biss products. Obsidian Sacred Stone. Shiatsu. Shirobyhanga. Just three of countless massages and luxurious amenities that await you. Whether you unwind in an elegant Jacuzzi, or bask in the sun, you will emerge renewed.
CABO SAN LUCAS LOS CABOS | PACIFICA HOLISTIC RETREAT | ROS | SUNSET BEACH PUERTO VALLARTA SAMBA VALLARTA

MAZATLAN EMERALD BAY | MAZATLAN

Extraordinary
Since the opening of our first resort in 1987, each of our new properties has arrived with its own unique personality, design and ambiance. Though no two are alike, all share the same high level of impeccable quaity and distinguished atmosphere that our hotels are known for, where guests can have a rewarding and excitingly different experience in every one.

Ernesto Coppel
owner

R E S E R VAT I O N S : P U E B L O B O N I TO. C O M | 8 0 0 - 9 9 0 - 8 2 5 0 O R YO U R T R AV E L A DV I S O R

Escape

your everyday life...

Visit these select Bahama Out Islands Properties:

LONG ISLAND
Cape Santa Maria Beach Resort www.CapeSantaMaria.com Stella Maris Resort www.StellaMarisResort.com

THE EXUMAS
Club Peace & Plenty and Peace & Plenty Beach Inn www.PeaceAndPlenty.com Four Seasons Great Exuma at Emerald Bay www.FourSeasons.com/GreatExuma Staniel Cay Yacht Club www.StanielCay.com February Point Resort Estates www.FebruaryPoint.com

ANDROS
Tiamo Resorts www.TiamoResorts.com Small Hope Bay Lodge www.SmallHope.com The Emerald Palms www.Emerald-Palms.com

THE ABACOS
Abaco Beach Resort & Boat Harbour www.AbacoResort.com Green Turtle Club Hotel, Resort & Marina www.GreenTurtleClub.com Treasure Cay Hotel Resort & Marina www.TreasureCay.com

Bahamas the perfect

way to totally relax and unwind in a spectacular island setting. Our crystal clear water, unspoiled beaches, and abundance of water sports are just a stones throw away.

scape to the nearby

Out Islands of The

Experience a place where you truly can escape your everyday life.
Visit

www.GoOutIslands.com

or call

1-800-OUT-ISLANDS

. o c i x M f O t s e B e ! h e T c a l l l P A e n O All In
Come and experience the essence of Mexico while enjoying our pristine beaches, rich local culture, and of course, deliciously authentic cuisine. From Mexicos largest aquarium to joyous local festivals held throughout the year, there are always exciting experiences waiting for you. Explore Mazatlns storied past at a wealth of historic sites and monuments found across this quaint city. A true sports paradise, Mazatln features some of the worlds most spectacular sportfishing. You can also enjoy challenging golf and a variety of water sports from sailing to sea kayaking.

Mazatln offers all the best of Mexico. All in one place! For more information and to book your reservations today, visit www.gomazatlan.com.

Please remember that as early as January 8, 2007, passports will be required for US citizens of all ages returning via air to the US.

Ja nu a r y / Fe br u a r y 2 0 0 7

Vo l u m e

27 / Numbe r 1

CONTENTS
Cover Stories
50 10 of the Worlds Greatest Escapes 93 Revealed! Secret Hawaiian Beaches 97 Exclusive: Duchess of Yorks Seychelles 100 Amazing Island Getaways for less than $300

Features
50
On these private paradises, you may nd yourself actually relaxing . But when you can stand that no longer, keep busy: Go to a Japanese bathhouse, walk rainforests, learn to surf.

Eco-Luxe: Perfect 10

ACCESS 97 The Duchess of York recounts her Seychelles journey. 100 Eco-Luxe: Perfect 10 trips require a bit of cash. These eight escapes cost less.

72
Cover: Le Tahaa Resort in French Polynesia by Philippe Bacchet. For story, go to page 52. This page: Anse Macquereau on Frgate Island, Seychelles, by Ty Sawyer

Eden exists on the Seychelles! Towering forests of palms, perfect beaches, skies full of fairy terns and tempting love nuts.
STORY BY TY SAWYER

In Search of Eden Empire of Sand

PHOTOS BY ALISON WRIGHT

80

To navigate the sand island of Moreton off Australia, youll need a four-wheel-drive, a cooler of sangers and plenty of momentum. STORY BY TONY PERROTTET PHOTOS BY R. IAN LLOYD

J a n u a r y/ Fe b r u a r y 2 0 0 7 ISL A N D S . c om

Ja nu a r y / Fe br u a r y 2 0 0 7

Vo l u m e 2 7 / N u m b e r 1

CONTENTS
Iceland p27 Isle of Eriska p100 Venice p24 Giudecca Island p56 Sporades p23 Sardinia p28 Niihau p93 Kauai p93 Oahu p93 Molokai p93 Maui p24, 93 Big Island p93 Lanai p28, 64, 93, 100 Little Palm Island p66 Cabbage Key p100 Cayo Espanto p62 Coco Plum Caye p100 Turks & Caicos p27 St. Thomas p23 St. Croix p22 Tenerife p24 Peter Island p70 Gomera p30 Long Island p54 Young Island p100 Trinidad & Tobago p12, 24 Panay p24 Phi Phi Le p26 Pangkor Laut p58 Seychelles p60, 72, 97 Wilson Island p68 Moreton Island p80 Gangga Island p100

Curaao p28 Aruba p43 Motu Aito p100 Motu Tautau p52

Zanzibar p22

Maldives p23

Mauritius p35 Runion p35

Woody Island p100 Tasmania p22 South Island, New Zealand p20, 28 pg 30 pg 43
FROM LEFT: ZACH STOVALL; RANDALL HYMAN; ROBERT FRIED/ALAMY; COURTESY ARUBA TOURISM AUTHORITY

Discover
20 Mussel Cruise This is the place for the perfect summer picnic in February. 23 Beds and Boats Float the days and nights away. 24 Masked Dance in costumed revelry through the streets at these four island Carnivals. 24 Love Potions Tour a garden full of aphrodisiacs on Maui. Look, but taste at your own risk. 27 Get Stones Icelands black stones might be magical.

Adventures
43 Arubian Nights When in Aruba after dark, venture off into the desert under a full moon. BY CHRISTINE RICHARD

Access
93 The 11 Best Hawaiian Beaches: Hawaiis secret strands. 97 A Duchess Diary Read what Sarah Ferguson discovered on North Island, Seychelles. 100 Eco-Luxe for Less An addendum to our Eco-Luxe: Perfect 10 feature: Enjoy your own private motu, castle or Caribbean island for under $300. pg 93

Departments
12 From the Editorial Director Island of Your Own 16 Explorers Our contributors 18 Mailboat Your letters and comments 118 Guess Whats Next Les Belles Iles

28 Bar None Taste test these bars of chocolate; each is made from island cocoa. 30 Language 101 Next time you need something on Gomera, whistle.

Island Life
pg 28 35 Aroma With a View Journey to Mauritius and Runion for fragrant escapes.
BY JOE YOGERST

Contest
18TH ANNUAL PHOTO CONTEST

19 Weve extended the deadline! Enter your best island photo to win a dream trip.

Free Airfare

with one of these fabulous Caribbean getaways

Book Now Its Easy

Receive one free airline ticket per room when you purchase a 7-night stay at any of these Elite Island Resorts. www.ISLANDS.com/EliteIslandResorts/CompanionTix.com or call 800-555-5555 to speak with an Elite Island Resorts reservations agent.

BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS / TORTOLA

ST. LUCIA

$500 value airline ticket per room is valid from most cities and is redeemed in conjunction with the purchase of a 7 night stay at any of these Elite Island Resorts. Travel must be completed by December 20, 2007 subject to resort availability. Certicate cannot be redeemed for cash or used with any other promotion or offer.

THE GRENADINES

ANTIGUA

F R O M T H E E DI T O R I A L DI R E C T O R

pg 50

pg 50

pg 80

pg 72

An Island of Your Own

I just read that authenticity has become the new measure of excellence. Certainly makes sense to us here at ISLANDS. Were always in pursuit of the authentic side of the ISLANDS dream. But does that mean youll need to give up amenities to have an eco-experience? Does authenticity obviate indulgence? We wanted to see if there is a luxury side to the sustainable equation of islands travel. We wanted to see if total escape could mean everything. So we sent both our editors and contributors to the near and far corners of the globe to find islands that excelled in both luxury and the natural experience. We chose places that were exclusive enough that when you visited youd at some time or another feel that you had the island all to yourself. Places where you could be coddled and pampered one minute, then the next minute roam the shore in the wee hours to see an endangered sea turtle heave herself up the beach to lay eggs in the moonlight. Places where you could tumble from your bed to the water and snorkel among nurse sharks and stingrays, only to have the most delightful eggs Benedict and cappuccino waiting as you hauled yourself from the waves. Places where nature and time and tide rule the assessment of the day. We selected a rare mix of islands that will give you the ultimate bragging rights to both your sybaritic and tree-hugging needs in equal measure: in other words, eco-luxe (page 50). We found five-star tents on the Great Barrier Reef; sea-breeze-filled, houseman-attended villas on nature islands off Belize; exotic lost worlds in Malaysia and a secluded private island ruled by giant tortoises, seabirds and banyan-tree forests 1,000 miles into the Indian Ocean. These are places worth saving all those extra pennies to see, places with deeply authentic experiences, the value of which cannot be measured. And it is those true experiences that define the art of ISLANDS travel. Sometimes its OK to indulge a bit along the journey. Safe travels. Ty Sawyer, editor@islands.com
JU S T B A C K F R O M

Tobago
HIKE the Western Hemispheres oldest protected rainforest. LOOK FOR rufous-tailed jacamars, blue-crowned motmots, whitebearded manakins and loads of hummingbirds. TASTE roti, a rich, curried amalgam of Caribbean, Indian and African dishes made of goat, chicken or beef with vegetables and potato wrapped in a flatbread. CHECK OUT the worlds largest (were talking VW-bussized) brain coral while scuba diving off LittleTobago island near the sleepy town of Speyside. JUMP into the wild abandon of Carnival in February.Then celebrate the two-week-longTobago Heritage Festival in mid-July and early August as well as Indian Arrival Day, Emancipation Day, Hosay, Divali, Phagwa and dozens of other festivals. STAY in your own Caribbean-style villa with a pool, poolside barbecue, veranda, spectacular views (and a stocked fridge, if you like) at the Palms Villa Resort. Rates from $450 per night for up to four guests. thepalmstobago.com GO TO visittnt.com. TS

12

J a n u a r y/ Fe b r u a r y 2 0 0 7 ISL A N D S . c om

F R O M L E F T: B O B F R I E L ; C O U R T E S Y N O R T H I S L A N D ; R . I A N L L O Y D ; A L I S O N W R I G H T; I N S E T: Z AC H S T OVA L L

Theres nothing like a beautiful sunset and a fine port.

Santa Maria Suites

Getaway and dream in sophistication and luxury in Key Wests premiere two-bedroom all suite resort located in historic Old Town. 800-874-0348 santamariasuites.com

Tranquility Bay Beach House Resort

Newest luxury 2 & 3 bedroom beach house resort on acres of private sandy beach. Featuring waterfront decks, open floor plans, 2.5 baths, gourmet kitchens, resort amenities and activities, fine dining & beachfront Tiki Bar. 866-MID-KEYS tranquilitybay.com

Hawks Cay Resort

Experience our 60-acre island destination resort! 2 & 3 Bedroom Waterfront Villas, 177 room hotel, Spa, Dolphin Encounters, Kids Programs, Water Sports, Marina, Tennis, Fishing & 4 Restaurants! 800-432-2242 hawkscay.com

Sunset Key Guest Cottages

Secluded 27-acre tropical island is located 10 minutes by launch from Key West. Offering elegantly appointed one to three bedroom cottages. Superior amenities and services. 866-219-8200 sunsetkeyisland.com

Indigo Reef Marina Homes Resort

Newest luxury 3 bedroom marina homes resort with seaside cottage dcor, gourmet kitchens, 2.5 baths, waterfront decks, private boat slips and state-of-the-art fish cleaning stations. 866-MID-KEYS indigoreefresort.com

Southernmost Hotel & Resorts

A collection of five unique properties including oceanfront and Duval Street accommodations, luxury two-bedroom suites and AAA four diamond boutique hotels located in historic old town. 800-874-0348 southernmostresorts.com

Westin Key West

AAA Four Diamond full service waterfront resort in Old Town. Walking distance to major attractions. Sunset Celebration on pier. Marina with on-site vendors offer watersport activities. 866-841-2600 westin.com/keywest

Cheeca Lodge
Everything it takes to restore and reinvigorate yourself is here. The ocean. World-class fishing & diving. Gorgeous beach. World-class spa. Romantic dining. Family fun. And luxurious West Indies inspired accommodations. 800-327-2888 cheeca.com

Dove Creek Lodge

14 Luxury Oceanfront Lodge Rooms and Suites. Pool, Jacuzzi, Marina with Kayaking, Guided Backcountry and Deep-Sea Fishing. 800-401-0057 dovecreeklodge.com

The Everglades

Miami Key Largo

Islamorada Key West Big Pine Key & The Lower Keys Marathon

fla-keys.com

1-800-FLA-KEYS

EDI TOR I AL
EDITO RIAL DI R ECTO R EDITO R F E ATU R ES EDITO R AS S O CIATE EDITO R EDITO RIAL AS SISTANT CO PY EDITO R CO NTRIB UTING EDITO RS

Ty Sawyer Christine Richard Megan Padilla Kelly Lack Amy Cassell Sue Youngsteadt Rita Ariyoshi, Amanda Jones, David Lansing, Tony Perrottet, Ned Sublette, Joan Tapper, Joe Yogerst Michael Bessire Lori Barbely Macduff Everton, Robert Holmes, Darrell Jones, Bob Krist, Andrea Pistolesi, Theo Westenberger, Nik Wheeler
PUBL ISHING

ART DI R ECTO R PH OTOG R APHY EDITO R CO NTRIB UTING PH OTOG R APH ERS

PU B LIS H ER

Carolyn Pascal-Guarino, 407-571-4694; carolyn.pascal@worldpub.net

ADVERT ISING

TER RITO RY MANAG ER TER RITO RY MANAG ER TER RITO RY MANAG ER TER RITO RY MANAG ER N O N - END EMIC SALES MANAG ER MARK E TPL ACE MANAG ER FLO RIDA / CARIB B E AN MARK E TPL ACE MANAG ER WO RLDWID E

Viveca Caldara, 786-877-2350; viveca.caldara@worldpub.net Cindy Chifari, 305-466-6277; cindy.chifari@worldpub.net Kerry Neujahr, 407-571-4898; kerry.neujahr@worldpub.net Katie Weiss, 805-690-9829; katie.weiss@worldpub.net Thomas Rudd, 212-219-4604; thomas.rudd@worldpub.net Ryan Fridley, 407-571-4712; ryan.fridley@worldpub.net Corrine Hicks, 646-468-6509; corrine.hicks@worldpub.net
Steve Thompson, Media Centric, Inc., 415-435-4678 Focus Media & Marketing, 313-670-0553

ADVERTISING DESIGN DI R ECTO R PRODUCTI O N ARTISTS ADVERTISING TR AFFIC MANAG ER ADVERTISING CO O RDINATO R

Suzanne Oberholtzer Monica Alberta, Wendy Crenner, John Digsby, Shannon Mendis Mary Hite, 407-571-4907; mary.hite@worldpub.net Kelly Henderson, 407-571-4608; kelly.henderson@worldpub.net
ISL ANDS . C OM

O N LIN E PRODUCER

Ted Wells, 407-571-4555; ted.wells@worldpub.net

TR AVEL & L IFEST YLE GROUP

G RO UP PU B LIS H ER E XECUTIVE AS SISTANT O N LIN E DI R ECTO R O N LIN E B USIN ES S CO O RDINATO R MARK E TING ARTIST MARK E TING CO PY WRITER M U LTI M EDIA PRODUCER WEB D ES IG N E R

Dave Freygang Barbara Lanning Laura Walker Amanda Jackson Elizabeth Cabrera Mike Tyler Michelle Makmann Jos L. Salmon

IS L ANDS IS A DIVISI O N O F

Terry Snow Dan Altman Russ Cherami Martin S. Walker Bruce Miller Dean Psarakis Leigh Bingham Peter Winn Vicki Weston Lisa Earlywine Jay Evans Mike Stea Nancy Coalter Dinah Peterson Sheri Bass Heather Idema Dean Turcol

President Chief Operating Officer Director of Corporate Sales Advertising Consultant Vice President, Consumer Marketing Business Director, Consumer Marketing Subscription Director, Consumer Marketing Planning & Development Director, Consumer Marketing Single-Copy Sales Director Director of Production Operations Director of New Media Technologies Director of Network and Computer Operations Controller Credit Manager Director of Human Resources Research Director Director of Communications
ISL ANDS MAGA Z INE

B USIN ES S AND EDITO RIAL O FFICES S U B SC R I P TI O NS

460 N. Orlando Ave., Suite 200, Winter Park, FL 32789 8 0 0 -2 5 0 -15 2 3

Occasionally, we make portions of our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services we think may be of interest to you. If you do not want to receive these offers, please advise us at 800-250-1523. We cannot be responsible for the care or return of unsolicited materials.

Lithography R R Donnelley PRINTED IN USA

H AWA II

AUSTR A L I A

NE W

ZE A L A ND

FIJI

TA HITI

GUA M

BA L I

Outrigger Waikiki Outrigger Reef on the Beach on the Beach

Outrigger Keauhou Outrigger Beach Resort Condominium Collection

Hawaiis Most Romantic Settings

Discover a tropical state of mind at any Outrigger Hotel & Resort. Outrigger Waikiki on the Beach brings Hawaiian tradition to life with a casual elegance. Outrigger Reef on the Beach is the consummate Waikiki beachfront hotel. Outrigger Keauhou Beach Resort offers an enchanting setting on Hawaiis Big Island. And the Outrigger Condominium Collection presents more than a dozen distinctive properties throughout the islands. Call any travel agent, 1-800-OUTRIGGER or visit outrigger.com.

E XPL ORERS

Off the east coast of Australia lies an island in perpetual motion. Moreton Island is a sand dune thats gained some permanency over the years with its resorts and beach homes, but its shifting sands and tides mean that its really still on the move, says photographer R. Ian Lloyd. Though Lloyd splits his time between Australia and Singapore, his trip to Moreton (Empire of Sand, page 80), where the sand hills are king and rising tides can swallow up cars in a matter of minutes, was his first. Lloyd delighted most in gunning round the island in his four-wheeldrive, getting it up to 75 mph on hard sand. If you plan to drive, listen to the locals, know the time of tides and reduce your tire pressure so your tires almost look flat, he says. The stalwart Lloyd has been a travel photographer for 32 years and has contributed to ISLANDS for 17.

When ISLANDS asked Sarah Ferguson to travel to North Island in the Seychelles as a luxury correspondent, she was excited about the prospect. Off went the Duchess of York with fragrant candles in her luggage, a travel ritual that helps her unwind once she arrives at a place. And unwind, she did. But the private island was the real elixir. You can find delicious solitude, just your own footsteps in the sand, Ferguson says, which is why it made our Eco-luxe list (page 50). On North Island, the hectic pace of her public life melted away. Ferguson and daughter Eugenie made quick friends with the neighbors: hawksbill and green turtles. Ferguson also enjoys traveling to Nassau, Bahamas; Ko Phuket, Thailand; and now the Seychelles. But ISLANDS, she thinks, is a good destination. Digging into an issue is like escaping on a great journey. Read the journal of her Seychelles travels on page 97.

Tony Perrottet journeyed to Moreton Island (Empire of Sand, page 80) for the 50thwedding-anniversary party of his in-laws who, many years ago, holidayed on the Australian island. Perrottet chronicled his adventures on Moreton, such as learning the ins and outs of driving a four-wheel-drive on Moreton sand. Perrottet and his wife, Lesley, traveled to more than 30 countries before they had two children; little Henry and baby Sam joined them on this trip. Bringing them allowed me to shamelessly spend more time sand tobogganing than I would probably have allowed myself alone. It lets you look at the world through someone elses fresh eyes. Perrottet is also the author of Pagan Holiday and The Naked Olympics .

16

J a n u a r y/ Fe b r u a r y 2 0 0 7 ISL A N D S . c om

M A I L B O AT

WE HAVE A WINNER! Morgan Fine of Irvine, California, won a trip to Turtle Island, Fiji, by writing this caption to accompany the illustration at left: Fine, exclaimed Lois, we can go back to Fiji. Just put some clothes on before the neighbors see you. turtlefiji.com

Ed. note: The game, pictured above, uses shells to advance around a board. Spend sand dollars. And if you eat bad conch, you could lose a turn.

F R O M L E F T: B E C K Y H E AV N E R ; Z AC H S T OVA L L

Memory Lane While ipping through the November issue of ISLANDS, a photo of Magens Bay caught my eye. I enjoyed Megan Padillas article St. Thomas: American Bella Vista. Except for that green building about mid-page (page 54), Magens Bay looks as it did when I was there in 1966, working for Pan Am, opening up St. Thomas for jets. There was no walking trail to the bay then. Y ou could, though, walk there. I drove. There were not a great many roads, and all were narrow. Huge water trucks labored up the steep hills to bring water to where I lived.

I was on St. Thomas for more than three years. One of Pan Ams most celebrated pilots was Charlie Blair, and every so often a beautiful lady would appear in my ofce. She would greet me and ask me what Charlies ETA was. This was Maureen OHara ... Mrs. Charlie Blair. As you can see, that photo triggered a wealth of memories. Lou Borok, via e-mail
Correction: In the November issue, Peter Island Resort in the British Virgin Islands was incorrectly referred to as a Marriott property on page 33. The resort is a privately owned hotel on its own island. peterisland.com

Letter of the Month

I get a thrill out of each issue of ISLANDS; the content is second to none. Ive loved the ocean and its beaches since I was a kid, so I created the game Island Run out of this passion. I gured you guys would appreciate it. Keep turning out an excellent magazine. Darrin David, ocean88.com

Entry Deadline Extended until February 15, 2007

18th Annual Photo Contest

Were looking for images that define the island dream, that sweep us away and take us into the essence of the island experience. Send us your favorite images of sunsets, authentic culture, people, critters, beaches, island moments and spectacular scenery everything that makes islands the ultimate escape. The winning images will grace the pages of ISLANDS June 2007 issue. And best of all ... entering is free.

GRAND PRIZE ESCAPE TO HAWAII

Win three nights in the Ihilani Suite at the JW Marriott Ihilani Resort & Spa in Ko Olina, and three nights in a one-bedroom suite at the Waikiki Beach Marriott Resort & Spa, including breakfast for three mornings at the resorts Kuhio Beach Grill. Prize valid for travel through May 15, 2008, based on availability. Peak and holiday blackout dates may apply. Hotel package is valued at $7,750. Round-trip air transportation for two is provided courtesy of Hawaiian Airlines, valid from any city that Hawaiian Airlines serves.
2006 Grand-Prize winner Douglas Nason took this photo of a local woman on Nosy Komba, off Madagascar. Dougs prize was a six-night stay at St. Lucias all-inclusive Jalousie Plantation, including airfare.

FIRST PRIZE
MUY BONITA

SECOND PRIZE
BEACHES FOR TWO

THIRD PRIZE
ANTIGUAN RESPITE

ARTISTIC MERIT
PARADISE FOUND

ARTISTIC MERIT
SHOOT LIKE A PRO

30 HONORABLE MENTIONS
Win an ISLANDS gift bag that includes BullFrog sunscreen with insect repellent, an Earworms musical brain trainer language CD, a Globetrotters LogBook, an ISLANDS T-shirt and other gifts for you to bring on your next island vacation.
All prizes are based on availability. Expiration or blackout dates may apply. See islands.com/ photocontest for details.

Win a fi ve-night stay for two in a master suite at the luxurious Pueblo Bonito Sunset Beach Resort & Spa in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico. The secluded resort spans more than 50 acres terraced into a landscaped hillside with its own private beach.

Win a six-night stay for two at the beachfront Hilton Curaao. Features include two private beaches, a free-form infinity pool, Gold Palm PADIcertified dive center, tennis courts, the Livingwell Health & Beach Club, Color of People Spa and a Las Vegas-style casino.

Win a six-night stay for two at the St. Jamess Club Resort on the island of Antigua. The 100-acre estate has two private white-sand beaches and beautiful ocean views around every corner.

Win a three-night stay for two in an ocean-view room at the Peter Island Resort in the British Virgin Islands. All meals, use of all complimentary resort activities and airport transfers to and from Beef Island Airport are included.

Win a week-long total-immersion workshop at the Maine Photographic Workshops, founded in 1973 in Rockport, Maine. Prize includes tuition to the workshop of your choice, lab fees, accommodations and meals.

2006 Third-Prize winner: Pierre Lemarchand

Photo Contest Entry Form

SEND ENTRIES TO: ISLANDS PHOTO CONTEST; 460 N. ORLANDO AVE., SUITE 200; WINTER PARK, FL 32789

Name Address City

Phone

State

Zip

Photos must be labeled according to Photo Contest Rules available at islands.com/photocontest. Please note that we cannot be responsible for returning images.

23
BY THE NUMBERS BEDS AND BOATS

26
HOW DO I GET HERE? A CAMEO BEACH

28
TASTE COCOA ISLAND CHOCOLATES

30
ARMCHAIR TRAVELER POLYNESIA IN REVIEW

D I S C OV E R experience the ultimate escape

Maori legend states that the explorer Kupe, while wrestling a giant octopus, grabbed onto South Island for support. His fingers carved the indentations that form the Marlborough Sounds.

A Mussel Cruise
CRUISING FOR THE JEWELS OF THE SOUNDS.
i am lounging outside on the open-air deck of a 40-foot launch as it putters away from shore in Havelock, the self-proclaimed world capital of greenshell mussels. Its February and, as friends freeze back in New York, I wear a shortsleeved shirt and wide-brimmed hat to protect me from New New Zealand Zealands sun. I have never before heard of a greenshell mussel and, truth be told, I am a reluctant eater of bivalves back home. But what crabs are to the Chesapeake Bay and lobsters are to Maine so, too, are greenshell mussels to the Marlborough Sounds, a region of inlets and bays on the northern tip of New Zealands South Island. These particular mussels, our guide tells us, were a favorite food of the indigenous Maori. So nding out there is a three-hour boat tour that not only cruises the sounds but also dishes out wine and mussels, is a deal-clincher.

DAV I D WA L L / A L A M Y

DI S C O V E R

THE ART OF ESCAPE

Sounds of Swahili
Listen to taarab (an orchestra with instruments such as the lute and zither) in front of the Old Forts ancient wall in Zanzibars Stone Town at the Sauti za Basura Music Festival (Feb 9-14). Spend your days (and nights) checking out over 40 musical and theatrical performances by groups from Zanzibar and East Africa, including rhythmic beni and popular afropop music. busaramusic.com

Down by the Docks

Some 500 wooden boats will be on display off Sullivans Cove in Hobart, Tasmania, for the Australian Wooden Boat Festival (Feb 9-12). Listen to roving buskers perform sea shanties; learn how to catch, prepare and cook abalone and lobster; and check out the boat-building competition where teams race to construct a wooden boat using limited supplies. australian woodenboatfestival.com.au

A Friendly Feast
Try kallaloo (stew of okra, seafood, meat, local greens and spices) and benye (fried banana fritter) and listen to local steel-pan, quelbe and calypso bands at the 36th annual U.S. Virgin Islands Agriculture and Food Fair (Feb 17-19). Vendors dressed in traditional attire set up booths in Frederiksted, St. Croix, to display and sell locally-made arts, crafts, food, drinks and more. usvitourism .vi AMY CASSELL
islands.com/calendar

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F R O M T O P : C O U R T E S Y T O U R I S M N E W Z E A L A N D ; C O U R T E S Y U. S . V I R G I N I S L A N D S D E PA R T M E N T O F T O U R I S M ; R O B WA L L S / A L A M Y; B U S A R A P R O M O T I O N S ; O P P O S I T E : F A R L E F T: C O U R T E S Y D H O N I M I G H I L I ( 2 ) ; T O P : C O U R T E S Y T H E M O O R I N G S ; B O T T O M : C O U R T E S Y T H E R I T Z - C A R LT O N , S T. T H O M AS

As we pull away from Havelocks marina, Dave Morgan, our captain, tells us about the European pioneers who settled in the sounds in the 1830s and about how living here still requires an off-the-grid mentality. Mail is delivered by boat twice a week, as are groceries. I peer into the water, an inviting hue of greenish blue, and ponder drinking it. I spot no otsam and nary an oil patch and, for the rst time, fresh from the sea sounds like a delicious idea. Surrounded by sea cliffs, the sounds look as if a carefully sculpted ice mold had been removed to reveal craggy formations. We marvel at the expanse of these waters and feel dwarfed. As we approach Kenepuru Sounds, about an hour north from Havelock, we see where the mussels are cultivated: Long rows of natural-ber buoys oat like lined-up cadets on the waters surface. Hanging down from these buoys are lines of rope on which the mussels anchor themselves. As we stop the boat near the buoys, Morgan explains that the water, which is 57 to 64 degrees, is carefully monitored for purity. He pulls up a line to reveal dozens of the jade- and gold-colored mussels, almost jewel-like in their iridescence, attached to it. Morgan cuts one off and explains that it takes 12 to 18 months for them to mature from seed to harvest. Once were all mussel experts, a ready supply of mussels
(from previous page)

The Marlborough Sounds region on New Zealands South Island has about 600 mussel farms, making it the countrys top producing area for these sea delicacies.

appears, and in about 10 minutes, after they are prepared, the eight of us on this cruise are gorging on the freshest mussels Ive ever eaten. Because they are recently harvested, and they havent been snap frozen, they are rich with salt water and the shellshs own juice. No garlic or white wine is necessary for avor. What does complement the mussels is a glass of chilled Awatere Terrace Sauvignon Blanc. On a gourmet roll, the next day I drive to wine country and visit Cloudy Bay, a well-known winery in the region. Only 20 minutes from Havelock, Marlborough wine country is a patchwork of small country lanes connecting huge green tracts of vineyards. The fruit hangs heavy, since it is less than two months from harvest. Walking into Cloudy Bay, I know Im in a sophisticated wine region, except I am the only one in the tasting room when was the last PL AN YOUR TR IP islands.com/newzealand time that happened in Napa? After the tasting, I journey to more vineyards, some whose wines Why here? There are clear, clean waters, fjords and coves along the Marlborough Sounds 930 miles of coastline. Then, there are the 106 Ive never heard of and others whose labels Ive wineries and 600 mussel farms. Why now? Suffer, if you will, the drudgseen on the shelves back at home. Throughout ery of winter. But in New Zealand, its summertime break out the my four days in Marlborough, I feast on greenSauvignon Blanc and mussels and have yourself a picnic on the deck shell mussels and sip white wine. Its the perfect of a boat or in a vineyard. marlboroughtravel.co.nz summer meal in February. ALEXIA BRUE

BY THE NUMBERS

Bedknobs and Boat Tacks

If you are the type of traveler who cant get enough of the water and its myriad activities, why not let it play a large part in your itinerary? CHRISTINE RICHARD

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Spend the entire week at sea. The Moorings charters lets you choose the size of yacht you want, the region where you want to sail and the type of crew youd like on board want a chef? A captain? One of the Mediterranean regions in which it operates is in the Sporades chain, off the east coast of Greece. Access coves and islets that landlubbers cant. On Kra Panaga, where there is a monastery atop a hill, there is light tour-boat traffic in late morning, but if you choose to moor overnight, itll be you and the monk. Stop in beautiful Skpelos town on Skpelos island; visit the isle of Alnissos with its marine park and Mediterranean monk seals; and dont miss the very traditional Skros island. Rates from $220 per day, typically with a seven-day minimum. Adding a chef or other crew is extra. moorings.com Her name is Lady Lynsey, a 53-foot catamaran thatll whisk you, a guest of The Ritz-Carlton, St. Thomas, through the waters off this Virgin Island. You can choose a snorkel, sunset or shopping cruise, but we like the Dinner-inSt.-John trip, which sails you to a great meal (much better than taking a taxi). Appetizers are served under full sail, you are dropped off to enjoy dinner, and dessert is served on the hour-long sail back. Located on the east end of the island, The Ritz-Carlton, St. Thomas overlooks the Caribbean Sea and has a half-mile of beach. The Dinner-in-St.-John sail is $100 per person, and the Lady Lynsey leaves directly from The RitzCarltons beach. Easy. Room rates from $659. ritzcarlton.com The Republic of the Maldives is 99 percent Indian Ocean water and 1 percent land, so a rental car here is useless. What you really need is a boat, and Dhoni Mighili on Ari Atoll, in the western part of the chain, delivers. Each of its bungalows comes with a 65-foot-long wooden vessel called a dhoni that is equipped with Frette linens and LOccitane bath products. Said dhoni also comes with a private crew and a thakuru, aka butler, who knows all the sites to dive and snorkel and will bring you to uninhabited islands for lobster picnics. There are also a few inhabited islands nearby, such as Hanghghaa Meedhoo, with about 300 islanders and the tomb of a sultan. Rates from $850 per person. dhonimighili.com

Clockwise from top: Check into Dhoni Mighili and get a boat with your bungalow; the bed onboard has Frette linens; Lady Lynsey sails the Virgins; pick up your boat on Skathos and cruise the Sporades.

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LOVE POTIONS
Botanists might blush to call Kahanu Garden Hawaiis love garden, but aphrodisiacs grow without inhibition in this Maui 123-acre ethnobotanical preserve in Hana, Maui. Within it, the Canoe Garden celebrates the cultural relationships forged between people and plants, displaying plant varieties carried by the Polynesians on their long voyages of settlement to the Pacific. Kahanu also holds the worlds largest collection of breadfruit cultivars and a good crop of awa, or kava, that induces euphoria. Papaa, a variety of sugar cane, is known for its seductive prowess, but garden director Kamaui Aiona wont point it out. I dont want to be responsible for promoting matches that might not work out. Hawaiis largest remaining forest of wild hala trees hems the gardens and, even here, love prevails. Pollen from the male halas flowers is said to be amorously efficacious. But its fragrance, Aiona says, is something like Windex. The pollen is certainly not used as French perfume. Piilanihale, the largest heiau (ancient temple) in Polynesia, broods over Kahanu Garden, named for a Maui king who made love, not war. ntbg.org RITA ARIYOSHI

Spirited Parties
wild, reckless, affected by the music and the liquors of the island, thats Carnival, which typically starts weeks prior to Ash Wednesday (this year on February 21), culminating on the Tuesday before. So brush off your costume and dance madly into the night on these islands. Port-of-Spain, Trinidad In the ultimate Caribbean-island Carnival, stilted Moko Jumbies and pitchfork-wielding Jab Jabs rule parades and parties called fetes, as catchy calypso music and rum mix together. DO IT RIGHT Sign up early to parade with a mas (masquerade) band, like Pulse 8. Then, on Ash Wednesday, recuperate on the beaches of Tobago. vi sittnt.com/carnival.asp; pulse8carnival.com Kalibo, Panay, Philippines Wearing grandiose headdresses and outlandish costumes, islanders pound bass drums and parade on foot and by oat, often becoming nearly possessed by good spirits. DO IT RIGHT Have a glass, or two, of arak , rice wine, and then chant the words Hala bira , or Onwards. ati-atihan.net Venice, Italy Venetians wear exquisite masks that harken back to the 18th century when the Venetian Carnevale was heralded throughout Europe, and masks were worn to save face when particularly scandalous acts were taking place. DO IT RIGHT Buy your mask from Gualtiero DallOsto, a traditional mascareri (mask maker) from his workshop Tragicomica. And dont miss the opening events like the ight of the angel from St. Marks tower. car nivalofvenice.com: tragicomica.it
Top: Venices Carnival. Above: Soot-covered revelers in Kalibo.

Santa Cruz, Tenerife, Canary Islands

This Spanish esta has costumes rivaling those of Vegas showgirls, a tendency toward cross-dressing and plenty of salsa, merengue and murgas (satirical folk singers). DO IT RIGHT Watch the Entierro de La Sardina, or Burial of the Sardine, on Ash Wednesday. Followed by hundreds of widows (aka: a healthy percentage of males dressed in drag), a huge sardine gure is paraded through the city then burned, signifying the festivities end. webtenerifeuk.co.uk KELLY LACK

To learn more, pick up a copy of World Party: The Rough Guide to the Worlds Best Festivals (Rough Guides, $24.99).

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F R O M T O P : G R F E N H A I N G N T E R / F O T O T E C A 9 X 1 2 ; I M AG E B A N K / G E T T Y; G R E G VAU G H N

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HOW DO I GET HERE?

To snorkel the clear waters of Maya Bay on Phi Phi Le island inThailand, where Leonardo DiCaprio filmed The Beach, fly to Phuket, Thailand, on Malaysia Airlines.Taxi to the Phuket Rassada Harbour pier where you will board a ferry for the two-hour ride from Phuket to Phi Phi Le, one of the two islands that make up Ko Phi Phi. Snorkel the bay, keeping an eye out for blacktip reef sharks which, contrary to their depiction in the movie, are quite timid.While youre on Phi Phi Le, visit Viking Cave on the northeast corner of the two-and-a-half-square-mile island and see prehistoric wall paintings of animals and later drawings of European ships.The cave is revered by locals who come to collect swiftlet nests to make birds nest soup.The nests are so valuable that the caves are guarded and, in an effort to protect the site, overnight stays on Phi Phi Le are prohibited. Bunk at Andaman Beach Resort on Ko Phi Phis other island, Phi Phi Don. Rates from $25 per night, andamanbeachresort.com. Ferry transfers from Phuket to Phi Phi Le start at around $40 per person. phi-phi.com/ferry; tourismthailand.org LORI BARBELY

The Beach

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At first glance the black stones on this necklace may look ordinary. But according to Icelandic folk tales, they are not. Pick them up from Djupalon Beach on a cloudless day, only choose those that Iceland are warm, and they will carry magic, reveals Gudrun Bergmann, a writer and owner of Hotel Hellnar in the Snfellsnes Peninsula on Icelands west coast. A glacier-covered volcano, Snfellsjkull, presides over the peninsula and is believed to be the underlying source of the areas magic powers. The smooth pebbles, referred to locally as pearls, are thought to possess both healing and grounding properties. Formed in the fire of the volcano, these remnants of ancient lava rock have been smoothed to perfection by the oceans waves. TRY THIS Enjoy a morning walk along Djupalon Beach to collect the sun-warmed stones (this region is about a two-hour drive north of Reykjavk). Once home, take a cue from Reykjavks jewelers, who treat them as local gemstones, and bring the pebbles to your local bead shop where they can be drilled and strung into necklaces and bracelets, or even earrings and cuff links. visiticeland.com AB

GET STONES

Conch Out
if youre seeking the best place in the world to eat conch, the Turks & Caicos Islands, the largest exporter of conch meat to the Turks & Caicos United States and home to a conch farm, may be a good place to start. Here are two ways to enjoy it on the conch capital of Grand Turk island. LAZY Visit Bohio Dive Resorts Guanahani Restaurant on the islands west-coast Pillory Beach. The freshly caught queen conch comes cracked, as fritters or in chowder and is best accompanied by a local Turks Head beer. Watch the sun sparkle over turquoise waters and eat your ll: No other mollusk has as many omega-3 fatty acids or as imposing a place on a countrys ag. LIVELY Sail an hour to Gibbs Cay on Bohios catamaran, Serendipity . Don snorkel gear and dive down about 30 feet to hunt your own conch. Then join divemaster-cousins, Kel Talbot and Craig Been, as they prepare the mollusks: cracking, cutting, rinsing, dicing and then marinating them in

F R O M T O P : Z AC H S T OVA L L ; J U P I T E R I M AG E S ; O P P O S I T E : PAU L H I L L

lemon, lime and vinegar for 15 minutes with red and green peppers, onion, celery, tomato and parsley ecks for a tangy ceviche. Pause now for another Turks Head and a swim with stingrays. Then after resurfacing, enjoy your conch. bohioresort.com JAMES STURZ

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Forget the heart-shaped box and surprise your favorite island-obsessed valentine with this sophisticated fi ve-pack* of chocolate bars from some of the worlds most exotic island locales. Make a game out of it: Take the chocolate bars and your sweetie to a dinner party and do a blind taste test with other couples, seeing if they can guess which bar comes from where. Its a lot more flavorful than charades. THE EDITORS
PLANTAT I ON

Bar None

MANGARO

LOS ANCONS

MARALUMI

TAMARINA

Scent

Sugary, like an Easter rabbit Oily and smooth Slightly bitter, darkchocolate flavor masks this bars sweet scent. Expect a slightly acidic aftertaste. Madagascar

Spicy Dry; wont melt in your mouth or hands We tasted olives (yes, olives) and also licorice, currants and apricots.

Mild, like classic cocoa Crunchy Raisin and citrus dominate the flavor palette.

Briny and earthy Waxy Of the sea. Turns out the cocoa is grown in volcanic marine soil.

Texture

Taste

Provenance
BUY IT The 1er Cru de Plantation series is a chocolate-tasting kit by French chocolatier, Michel Cluizel, who seeks out the finest cocoa beans from single plantations. Price $29.99. chocolate sophisticate.com

Santo Domingo, D.R.

Papua New Guinea

So Tom

*We taste tested only four. The fifth chocolate bar was on the mainland of Venezuela, not our territory.

SEEING STARS grows dark as squid

When the island sky

ink, think of it as a rst call to the best free show on earth: the spray of stardust that makes up the night sky. Islands are ideal spots for stargazers few city lights and minimal cloud cover to interfere with a magnicent celestial view. To maximize your star sightings, nd a high spot or a length of shoreline as far from light sources as possible and wait for the show to begin. Here are four islands where stargazing is premium: WINTER: Lanai, Hawaii Manele Bay will be one of the best sites for a sharp view of the Quadrantids meteor shower that peaks on January 3. Though brief, its one of the most intense showers on the annual astronomical calendar. Look for the shower to begin after 10 p.m. and continue until 4 a.m. SPRING: Otago Peninsula, South Island, New Zealand In mid-April, the atmosphere in New Zealand is dry and clear, an ideal time to see every facet of the Big Dipper. Find a perch on the cliffs of the Otago Peninsula on the islands east side

and try to see Mizar, the double star in the elbow of the Big Dipper. Ancient civilizations tested a warriors vision with it. SUMMER: Sardinia, Italy View the conjunction of Venus and Saturn when the two planets come into alignment. They approach each other throughout June, coming closest on July 1. At dark, snag a bottle of Sardinian wine, a chunk of local goat cheese and a telescope and head to the beach at Chia or Pula on the islands southern tip to see for yourself. Hint: Love could let you down. FALL: Curaao, Netherlands Antilles Head to Westpunts beach (the westernmost point on the island) with a midnight picnic to see the Geminids meteor shower that peaks on December 13 and 14. Best viewing is between midnight and dawn. Y ou wont need a telescope to join the debate over whether the spectacular display comes from an asteroid or a comet. TIP: Pick a clear night with a new (not full) moon for the most stars. Y ou wont need binoculars to see many features. Current world-wide sky charts are at skytonight.com. LOUISA KASDON

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Z AC H S T OVA L L

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ARMCHAIR TRAVELER

Encounters
Reading

Pacific Encounters: Art & Divinity in Polynesia 17601860 (University of Hawaii

Wind Talkers
When Gomera native Juan Cabello wants to ask his wife a question, he doesnt pick up a phone; he lets out a long, loud whistle. Like a growing number of the 20,000 residents on this Spanish island in the Canary Islands, Cabello uses Silbo Gomero, a whistling language that can trace its roots back 2,500 years to settlers who arrived from North Africa. It nearly died out in the 20th century but, thanks to government support, Silbos high-pitched tweets and trills are being heard again. The language is now taught in schools and is a candidate for UNESCO Living Heritage status. Based on Spanish intonation, Silbo has some 4,000 distinguishable words, and it sounds like birds conversing. It can be heard from more than two miles away; for centuries islanders used it for communicating across deep valleys. Listen to Silbo demos daily at Restaurante Las Rosas, fredolsen.es/lasrosas.To hear a sample, go to silbogomero.es. SARAH ANDREWS

Press, $42) by Steven Hooper is like wandering through a naturalhistory museum but, of course, the artifacts arent behind glass theyve been photographed and placed on the clean, crisp white pages in front of you. The book opens with a concise timeline and a map of Polynesia, Micronesia and Melanesia to help orient you. Hooper then launches into a general history of these areas and explains how (by the hands of explorers and ships captains) these items came to rest in museums; many of the more than 270 objects in Pacific Encounters landed in the British Museum. There are carefully carved drums from the Hawaiian Islands, a Triton-shell trumpet decorated with human hair from the Marquesas and necklaces made from whale ivory. The ancient Polynesians most mundane acts, from hair plaiting to pounding food, unfold into an intriguing visual history, thanks to the care Hooper has taken to categorize, date and detail each object. kl

from striking black-andwhite photos to emotive essays and poems (those of poet-great Henri Hiro are honest, unabashed and raw). But really, the luscious paintings by Bobby Holcomb that grace the cover and many of the inside pages will touch you most with their sensual interpretation of Polynesian life. kl

Art of War

Sid Campbell, a 10th dan (black-belt grandmaster) in the Okinawan martial arts discipline of Kobayashi Shorinryu karate, could himself be considered a warrior of some consequence; indeed, he taps into his own knowledge for his book Warrior
Arts and Weapons of Ancient Hawaii (Blue

Tupu Tales

V arua Tupu: New Writing from French Polynesia (Manoa, $29.95) gathered works for

nearly 10 years prior to publication in July 2006, and with this book they strive to exalt the islanders past and resurrect the ancient Maohi (Polynesian) spirits. Varua Tupu encompasses diverse media,

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F A R L E F T: R A N DA L L H Y M A N ( 2 ) ; R I G H T: Z AC H S T OVA L L ( 3 )

The brushes of Gauguin transferred the vibrant colors of Polynesian life onto canvas for the Western world to see, and the logs of Captain Cook detailed these exotic lands, but the time has come for the people of French Polynesia to put forth their own art and tell their stories mediated through no one. The editors of

Snake Books/Frog, Ltd., $39.95). The book is one part history, two parts strategy and two parts weapons manual stirred together with anecdotes that seem likely culled from Campbells own martial-arts experience. He uses his own oil paintings to depict how he imagines a warriors stance, dress and tactics. Before the arrival of Captain Cook and rearms in 1778, the ancient koa were upstanding warriors who honored their elders, were ercely loyal to their chiefs and believed that mastering the art of hula was equally as important as perfecting their ghting skills. Interesting fact: The birth of King Kamehameha, who eventually united all of the Hawaiian Islands, coincided with Halleys Comet, and it was thus prophesized that one day he would rule. For this his grandfather ordered him killed, but Kamehameha was hidden away by priests for ve years. He became a great warrior and did, indeed, live out his prophecy, yet it was only with the help of cannons and other repower that he was able to do so. kl

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ARMCHAIR TRAVELER

Dub and Dubber

in the beginning that is, about 1966 there was Version. That was the Jamaican name for instrumental B-sides back when the 45-rpm, 7-inch single with one song on each side of a black, vinyl disc was dominant. Rather than pay to record a second song for the ip side, they put an alternate version of the Aside recording on the B-side, usually with the vocals mostly (but not entirely) removed, and often with added echo. Version Dread (Heartbeat) collects 18 Versions produced by Coxsone Dodd for the Studio One label and previously un-rereleased. The standout might be Willie & the Brentford Rockers Armagideon Version, the B-side of the anthem-like Armagideon Time. A lot of people wont get no justice tonight / So a lot of people going to have to stand up and ght. And then Version begat Dub. One of the most radical new musics of the last half-century, Dub went farther out on the limb, making creative use of the possibilities of multitrack recording. These were the rst remix records, transforming instrumental backing tracks and

occasional bursts of vocals into spacedout electronic music through a generous application of over-the-top psychedelic echo and mind-altering herbs. They were quick, cheap, dirty, funny and mad and revolutionary in both lyrics and sound. Dub is a process as much as a product. Ive been listening to Trojan Dub Massive (Chapters One and Two) (Trojan), a collection of classics enhanced by bassist/producer Bill Laswell. His studio sound is cleaner than the crackly old tracks hes working with, so theres some gloss, but he never runs out of things to do with rhythm. Bob Dylan, who made one of his best albums with the Jamaican rhythm section of Sly and Robbie, would surely approve of the remodeling his songs get on Is It Rolling Bob? Dub Versions (Ras), the dub companion to an album of Dylan war horses reggaeed by Jamaican singing stars, including Toots Hibbert, Beres Hammond, Luciano and The Mighty Diamonds. The dub boils Dylans lyrics down to essentials. You hear Come gather round people / Wherever you roam, and dont need the rest of the words. Let that line bounce around in a world of echo as the other phrases play in your head. Dylan himself appears in the last song. Its wonderful. ned sublette

DID YOU KNOW? Nearly half of the 140 known bird species on Hawaii are extinct. Of the species left on these islands, 31 are on the U.S. Endangered Species List.

See the birds of Hawaii and witness them in their natural environment with this excellent DVD, Hawaii Birds ($25). Videographer Jim Denny, an over-30-year resident of Kauai, draws from a depth of personal experience. Forgoing narration (identifying titles appear briefl y on screen), his footage, which was captured on many of the Hawaiian islands, is accompanied by an original slack-key guitar score by Paul Togioka and Hal Kinnaman. Youll be transported right into the forest to see many species with exotic names, such as the scarlet iiwi that appears on the cover. This compilation is a welcome escape into Hawaiian nature. kauaibirds.com MARY ELLEN GADSKI

FOR THE BIRDERS

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THE QUICKEST WAY TO HANG OUT IN THE CARIBBEAN THIS WINTER.

In the amount of time it takes to y to South Florida, you can be in Nassau/Paradise Island. Where you can bask in our sunshine. Sail in our breathtaking waters. Enjoy our world-class golng, diving and shing. And play at our Vegas-style casinos. For a free vacation guide and directory of our hotels and resorts to t your budget and lifestyle, call 1-800-BAHAMAS or visit NassauParadiseIsland.com

FREE PREVIEW ISSUE

Discover the best-kept secrets of Floridas good life.

! e r e h e r e w Wish you
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Best spots to live from luxury homes to planned residential communities plus fabulous places to play and stay Access to the people, places, events and experiences that make life in the Sunshine State so enjoyable Weekend travel tips for uncovering world-class culture, award winning cuisine, the best shopping, beachcombing, and much, much more.

To rece complim ive your enta FLORID ry issue of A TRA & LIFE , simply VEL comp and mail the atta lete ched postage -paid card tod ay.

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ISLAND LIFE
mauritius & runion
On the volcanic island of Mauritius grow vetiver, vanilla, geranium and ylangylang all loved by fragrance makers for their enticing concoctions that stir the senses.

Take an olfactory journey they call it the paillasson pure indulgence a holistic spa treatto the Indian Ocean islands ment that involves a coconut-husk scrub (paillasson) followed by a coconut-oil masdone at the Oberoi Spa by Banyan Tree at the posh Oberoi Resort in Mauritius. of Mauritius and Runion. sage The dark-brown husk glides across my back, exfoliating my skin before the masseuse
BY JO E YO GERS T

aroma with a view

performs magic on my road-weary muscles. Coconut is the overwhelming smell, but every so often I detect exotic odors that my nose cant readily identify. The masseuse tells me these aromas are ingredients for other spa treatments being prepared in a nearby room potions made from ylang-ylang, coriander, jasmine and tamarind.

AR T WO L F E

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ISL AND L IFE

Hoping to learn more about the natural ingredients they use in spa treatments, I attend the resorts weekly aromatherapy workshop inside its wine cellar. About a dozen of us gather around a huge wooden table covered in petals and leaves, as well as vials of essential oils. Workshop leader Anil Jhurry takes us on a journey through the history of scent, gradually narrowing his focus to the Indian Ocean islands of Mauritius and Runion, where the raw ingredients for many of the worlds luxury perfumes and aromatherapy treatments are cultivated: exotic plants like vetiver and girofle (clove buds) as well as ora like vanilla, geranium and ylang-ylang. Although little of this sweet-smelling ora is native to the southwest corner of the Indian Ocean, Jhurry explains that the tropical trade wind climate and volcanic soil are ideal for cultivating these plants. It also helped that the French the worlds paramount perfume makers had a profound

colonial presence on both islands. Passing a vial of ylang-ylang oil beneath my nose, I have to admit that it smells wonderful, a rich oral aroma that is most denitely not your grandmothers perfume. But in the same breath, I nd myself wondering what the big deal is. Lots of things smell nice. What makes this so special? I ask. Beyond simply smelling good, Jhurry responds, many of these plants provide a variety of therapeutic benets. Ylang-ylang, it seems, is extremely effective for calming and bringing about a sense of relaxation. But it is also an aphrodisiac. During the workshop, we make potpourri from the ingredients on the tabletop. Reaching into a huge bowl in the middle of the table, I grab a handful of dried frangipani leaves and drop them into my ceramic bowl. By now everyone is snifng vials of essential oils and studiously trying to decide which

combination they should sprinkle on their leaves. I experiment with lavender and vanilla, shake the whole thing vigorously and take a whiff. Phew! It nearly knocks me out. Jhurry laughs and says that Ive used way too much lavender and suggests that I sweeten my potpourri by adding more tiny drops of vanilla oil. Eventually I get it right, dump everything into a cheesecloth sack and voil! Ive got a custom-made aromatic souvenir of my visit to Mauritius. My interface with local aromas could have ended right there. But the combination of my spa experience and aroma workshop sparked my curiosity. I could have easily whiled away my days on the beach, but I was game for something new an olfactory journey across Mauritius and nearby Runion, both of them off the east coast of Madagascar. I wanted to nd out where these plants are grown and how they start their long and winding road from

the Indian Ocean to the perfumes that scent the necks of millions of women. Ylang-ylang became a star more than 80 years ago when several Parisian fashion houses used it as a key ingredient in perfumes such as Chanel N5 (which launched in 1921) and Jean Patous ultra-expensive Joy (1930). It was vanilla oil from Runion that made Shalimar such a hit when it was introduced by Guerlain in 1925. And the trend of using Indian Ocean ingredients (especially ylang-ylang) continues today in funky post-modern perfumes like Sui Dreams by Anna Sui (ylang-ylang) and Revlons Charlie Blue (geranium). The aromatic path takes me through endless sugar-cane elds and around jagged volcanic peaks to the swish Mvenpick Resort & Spa, where I come across Whiff! Its a sophisticated atelier du parfum located in a breezy arcade overlooking the Indian Ocean, where you can transform your favorite

The ylang-ylang tree with its hanging flowers from which perfume is distilled is a member of the custard apple family.

scents and essential oils into a custommade perfume. You bottle it on the spot and slap it with your very own label. Call it what you will Eau d Colin or Janelle N5 it is even more unique than having your own wine label. Soon after entering the shop, I learn what it means to bottle at the source.

The whole purpose of Whiff! is to devise your own scent. But Im having a hard time deciding whats right for me. Laikrany Seehakoo, a shop assistant, explains the process: You choose three notes hot, base and head and then blend them together. Men seem to prefer stronger scents like bergamot and fern. But choose anything that suits you. Bergamot has a denite citrus scent and, in fact, its made from the peel of a certain type of orange. Fern has a woodsy aroma. Laikrany drips some essential oil on her wrist and holds it up to my nose. This is my favorite, she croons. Vetiver a small ower that grows near the sugar-cane elds. We use it a lot in Hindu ceremonies, especially weddings, but its very rare these days. Its rarity may be due to the fact that there are a lot of Hindu ceremonies on Mauritius, a one-time French and British colonial possession that is now largely

R. IAN LLOYD

ISL AND L IFE

populated by Indians and Chinese. My nal brew contains a mixedcitrus note called coral, blended with star fruit and oriental musk an aroma thats both rened and a little on the wild side. I toy with various names before deciding on Eau de Control, which seems to summarize both my life and my slapdash perfume making. To explore the other half of this aromatic equation, nearby Runion, I take a 45-minute ight to the island, rent a zippy little French sedan at the airport and head down the east coast into the heart of the vanilla-growing region, a prime crop along with geraniums. Its a steamy tropical morning when I arrive at the Cooprative de Vanille in the village of Bras-Panon. Vanilla has long been the king crop on this French island, thanks to a 12-year-old slave boy from Runion by the name of Edmond Albius who in 1841 perfected a simple way to pollinate vanilla owers

These sumptuous ingredients make up Oberois coconut body scrub. We just cant give away its special recipe.

articially. This made commercial cultivation possible for the rst time and spurred the islands vanilla boom. Almost two centuries later, vanilla plantations are among Runions more popular sights. The temperature and humidity on the east side of Runion are ideal for vanilla, says co-op manager

Francois Mayer as we stroll through an old warehouse now used for historical exhibits and vanilla-processing demonstrations. Runion doesnt produce an awful lot of vanilla compared to places like Madagascar and the Comoros, but we like to think that we grow the best, says Mayer. And the savoir-faire, the know-how, comes from Runion. From here, it spread to the rest of the world. While most of the vanilla produced on Runion is exported to France, the islanders do keep some for themselves, using it mainly in cooking. Among typical dishes that I come across in Creole restaurants on the island are chicken or duck la vanilla, as well as incredibly tasty vanilla ice cream, crpes, rum punch and my favorite crme brle avored with fresh vanilla, which I eat nearly every morning, noon and night. Although known as a decorative ower to the rest of the world, a type of rose-scented geranium (Pelargonium

R. IAN LLOYD

For more information call your Travel Agent or 1-800-SANDALS

www.sandals.com

Jamaica Antigua St. Lucia Bahamas

Unique Vacations, Inc. is the worldwide representative for Sandals Resorts.

When you want the best of the Caribbean, come to the Caribbeans Best.

ISL AND L IFE

graveolens) called the bourbon geranium thrives on Runion and is well-suited for perfume, soaps and aromatherapy because it blends well with other essential oils like clove, lavender and sandalwood. And though there have been attempts to cultivate it elsewhere, nobody has been able to replicate the bourbons distinctive aroma a bit like traditional rose oil but with a touch of mint. On Runions west coast, I discover white-sand strands that offer a refreshing respite from the humid clime. Volcanoes rise steeply behind the coast, their upper reaches smothered in pine plantations and geranium elds that glisten with yellow-green owers during the growing season. The production area which has the perfect soil and humidity for growing geraniums lies at around 3,000 feet. Reaching it takes a bit of effort: an hour-long drive on switchbacks up the ank of a huge volcanic caldera called the Cirque de Mafate. Just

past the village of Petite France, I spy La woman ounces by in a miniskirt and Distillerie du Mado, a geranium planta- high heels. I cant see her face, but her tion nestled among the pines where scent is unmistakable: ylang-ylang perI amble through the harvested elds, fume made from the delicate yellow owlearn about the distillation process that er, the aphrodisiac. My nose isnt yet good turns the petals into essential oil and enough to say which one Opium, browse a plantation shop of soaps, mas- Obsession, or one of the others. But sage oils and candles made from gerani- I now recognize it as a quintessenum and other local plant products. tial aroma of the Indian Ocean. ^ The geranium region PL AN YOUR TR IP islands.com/mauritius stretches for about ve kilometers around here, says ISLAND THERAPY Indulge in a ylang-ylang purity body treatment at Oberoi Spa by Banyan Tree on Mauritius. Olivier Favre, the hip, young $137 for 90 minutes. If you choose to stay there, room rates shop manager and son of the from $878, including breakfast, oberoihotels.com. At the plantation owner. We har- Mvenpick Resort & Spa Mauritius, the spas solarium is made from the bricks of an old nearby sugar factory. Spring vest in the winter June, for a full-body treatment using essential oils such as palmaJuly and August [in the rosa, ylang-ylang, lemon grass and raventsara. Room rates from $742, including breakfast and dinner, movenpick-hotels southern hemisphere]. .com. Whiff!, which was once at Mvenpick, is currently Whiling away an afternoon closed and has no plans to reopen as of press time. in one of the sidewalk cafs of RUNIONS FIELDS La Distillerie du Mido near Petite St.-Denis, Runions French- France in northwest Runion offers 30-minute tours of its colonial capital on the north geranium fields, distilleriedumaido.com. Also on Runion, the Cooprative de Vanille plantation in Bras-Panon will coast, I catch a whiff of some- teach you about vanilla through a film and a tour. The tour thing familiar and look up. A costs $6 per person. coopvanille-braspanon.com

A DV E N T U R E S
arikok national Park , aruba

arubian nights
BY CHR IS T INE R ICHARD

Walk Arubas desert under the full moon, and youll engage all seven senses.

CO UR T E S Y AR UBA TOU R I S M AUT H OR IT Y

i ended up here, gripping the side of a millions-of-years-old

hunk of coral wall in Aruba at 10:30 p.m. because Ive got a big mouth. Just a few minutes earlier, I had made the mistake of remarking (give or take a few words) to Eddy Croes, an Arubian who is part Dutch, part African, part samurai (he is a master of kendo) that I get bored on walks. As we bumped along a granite-washboard road in his Land Rover deep into Arikok National Park on the north coast of Aruba, I lled Eddy in on my walking philosophy: I mean, I get the whole peaceful nature thing. But I like a little challenge, or I get bored. Eddy is co-owner of Aruba Nature

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A DV E N T UR E S

Sensitive Hikers. Sensitive, he dened, as in how you experience nature. Y ou must engage the ve senses on my hikes. Not only does he engage the senses, but he uses the approximately 40-minute road trip a relatively at journey from the very bright and busy high-rise hotel zone, passing through Dutch villages with adobe homes to the vast emptiness and darkness of the desert as a way to get to know his customers so he can tailor-make an Arubian adventure. As we drove into the desert-like park that night onto unpaved roads, he turned off his headlights so I could see just what a force of light the full moon is. Without articial illumination, I could clearly make out the sentinel-like forms of candle cacti, mesquite trees and the infamous tree of the ABC islands (Aruba, Bonaire, Curaao), the gnarled divi-divi, bending over backwards as if gasping for air. Most people who visit Aruba, just 15 miles from Venezuelas coastline, never see this north side. They stay in one of two hotel zones, and who can blame them? There, on the islands west coast, the Caribbean beaches are calm and turquoise, and the sand is as soft as 1,000-threadcount sheets. At night these beach-goers tend to head to the casinos and, on the rare occasion when they get sick of the beach or the even rarer occasion when it rains, they might shop in Oranjestad, the

capital. If they want the back story, they visit the Aruba Historical Museum, housed in an old Dutch watchtower the Fort Zoutman and Willem III Tower built in 1796 to learn about Dutch and African inuences on the island as well as the history of gold mining and aloe making. I, too, spent days swimming, unsuccessfully deciphering the local Papiamento language and visiting the his-

brain coral, various shellsh and something glittery that in the dark I fancifully imagined to be gold. There are no man-made steps here, so Eddy climbed and I followed, scaling the coral, its rough crevices abrading my palms. Granted, it isnt a big rock, and we eventually emerge onto higher (and horizontal) ground. I realize then that Eddy has given me exactly what I wanted: a

As we drove into the park that night, he turned off his headlights so I could see just what a force of light the full moon is.
torical museum. But when I heard that I could walk the desert in the dark, I acted. It sounded eerie. I phoned Eddy. He said hed pick me up at my hotel, The Westin Aruba Resort, at 9:30 that very evening. If youre lucky, Eddy noted then, youll even get to see a rattlesnake. Lucky? I was hoping Id see something more like an owl, I replied. at around 10:15 p.m., eddy and i parked near Boca Prins, an inlet in the park, to begin our walk without ashlights. We took the man-made steps at Boca Prins down to its bay and then walked across the sand to the aforementioned coral wall, which had, stuck within its bottom layers, conch shells, challenge. So I give him what he wants: I begin paying attention to my senses. A slight breeze cools my skin. The sea salt in the air is so thick that I hear it, if thats possible. What I denitely hear, though, is a tittering, and I see little shadows. I cant make them out what are those? Rattlesnakes? I ask, quick to imagine the scariest boogeyman of all. Land crabs, Eddy says. But Im quickly distracted from sound to sight: Before me in the lunar glow is a 30-foot-high sand dune. I sense (I am using the sixth one now) another challenge underway. How are we going to get around that? I ask. He demonstrates by putting one foot in front of the other: walking, albeit slowly, as he sinks at every step, scaling

Many visitors travel to Aruba for its picture-perfect Caribbean beaches. The most popular are on the west coast of the island, fronting the two hotel zones. Shown is Eagle Beach.

the dunes of the Arubian desert. Grit ies in my face. I crunch on it. Ah, taste. The nice thing about the desert at night, I decide as I make slow progress, is the temperature. I had toured Arikok one day, near noon, and had almost fallen to my knees as I walked from my car to one of its natural bridges to peek at the Caribbean Sea. It seemed like I was standing much closer than 12 degrees north of the equator. The only coolness I felt that day was in the nearby Tunnel of Love, a network of caves with dripping stalactites. I stop my uphill hike to take a deep breath, to inhale this unusual sea desert. Salt, strong and heavy. A humid desert. Y oure not talking about hiking anymore on this walk, Eddy remarks as we stand there, snifng. Its the wind, the sea and the inuence of the moon. Y ou are recharging. He breathes in the oxygen. The view is magnicent on the other side of the dune. The sea whips against the coastline, and giant boulders of tonalite and basalt protect the
G R F E N H AI N G N T E R / F OTOT E CA 9 X 1 2

island. The moon hangs overhead. I think of early discovery and wonder if this is what Aruba looked like when the Caquetio Indians arrived or when the Spanish came in 1499, leaving long before the gold they were seeking was eventually found in 1824. I somehow feel connected to early life as I stand here. I think of their fertile imaginations, seeing this desert and thinking of calling it home. Im proposing that they saw the beach side rst because, lets face it, its denitely more welcoming. Thats when I discover another sense: one that is most readily felt in the dark, one that should be activated often because it gives us the courage for possibility, like explorers: the seventh sense, I shall call it. The imagination. Indeed, maybe the explorers had arrived in the dark! Do you hear that? Eddy asks me. Hes down on his hands and knees, approaching a grove of sea grapes. A tern its by. Or is it an owl? Eddys walk has successfully engaged all my seven senses. ^

PL AN YOUR TR IP islands.com/aruba MOONWALK Want to know what creeps around in the desert at night? Find out on a walk through Arikok National Park, best undertaken beneath the full moon. No, no werewolves just better light for seeing owls, land crabs and rattlesnakes. Walks typically last about three to four hours, including driving time. $50 per person. sensitivehikers.com HIGH-RI SE ZONE The 478-room Westin Aruba Resort has just gone through a renovation, including raising the Westin fl ag and adding its signature Heavenly Bed. Located on pretty Palm Beach on the islands west coast, the hotel has a large casino, a cabaret showroom, nice boutiques and many restaurants, including the romantic Azull, where you can take a four-course dinner barefoot on the beach. Rates from $299, and all rooms have ocean views. starwoodhotels.com

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Non stop service to Tobago from Atlanta commences February 17th 2007. Please contact www.Delta.com or your travel agent.

Contact us at: North America (Toll Free) 800 816 7541 Trinidad 868 675 7034/669 5196 info@tdc.co.tt

Nature & Adventure Paradise

t the far end of the sweep of islands that curves around the eastern Caribbean, the lush green folds of Tobago rise up out the sea like a green gemstone on a cobalt eld. At only 73 square miles, Tobago packs a lifetime of adventures within its boundaries. Offshore the reefs are fed nutrients from the Guyana Currents and everything from sponges to corals to legions of marinelife come supersized from feeding off the constant buffet passing by their door. Youll nd scalloped hammerheads, manta rays, bloated sea turtles, the worlds largest (think Volkswagon-sized) brain coral and barrel sponges twisted by a current whose creative hand seems guided by Dali rather than Neptune. Above the water, Tobagos steep slopes harbor waterfalls, trails through lush green rainforest, and more than 420 species of birds and 600 plus kinds of butteries. And, theres enough pristine, uncrowded beaches to satisfy every travelers need for soft sand. Its a wildlife, adventure, diver and nature lovers nirvana that remains largely undiscovered and lost in time.

Top: Lush rainforest frames the crescent curve of Bloody Bay Beach. Above: A talkative parrot, one of Tobagos 420 species of birds. Facing Page, Clockwise from bottom left: A secretary blenny peeks out of its hard coral lair. The 177 foot drop of Argyll Falls, which ends in a lovely pool perfect for swimming. Tobago was once called the hummingbird isle. A juvenile blue angelsh. Part of the local shing eet at rest on one of Tobagos plethora of beaches. Special Advertising Section

NATURE, ADVENTURE & CULTURE

obagos natural wonders are immense. The island has the western hemispheres oldest forest preserve, the Tobago Forest Preserve, established in 1776. The majority of the island remains covered in a thick coat of rainforest, has some of the Caribbeans loveliest waterfalls and has incredible hiking trails. The island is also truly a birdwatchers paradise. The half-mile walk to the 177-foot-high Argyll Falls can sometimes take up to two hours. Not because the trail is rough, but because your guide will probably nd several dozen of Tobagos 420 bird species, such as the blue crowned mot mot one of the dozens of species of hummingbird and the colorful jacana. A simple walk through the woods becomes a feathery treasure hunt. Its best to take a guide and start just after sunrise when the birds are most active, otherwise youll hear lots of chirping and tweets and probably miss seeing your quarry. Off Speyside, a visit to Little Tobago Island, which is known as the Bird of Paradise Island, will put you up close to a dozen species of seabirds. And besides the Argyll Falls, youll nd a half-dozen more picturesque falls all around the island. There are great beaches on every coast, such as Bloody Bay Beach,

Special Advertising Section C o n t a c t u s a t : N o r t h A m e r i c a ( To l l F r e e ) 8 0 0 8 1 6 7 5 4 1 Free Phone from UK: 0800-804-8787

Castara Bay and Englishmans Bay, but the soft swath of sand at Pidgeon Point near Crown Point seems to be the gathering point for weekend cultural activities. No matter when you visit, theres always an event going on. And Tobagans love to share their culture as well as their natural resources. Check the tourism website for an updated list of events. Even with all the distractions, you need to eat, and no trip to Tobago would be complete without stopping

at a roadside Roti stand. Youll nd dozens of them as you drive throughout the island. Roti is a pastry lled with curried chicken, pork or goat, and once youve tried it, youll soon begin to understand how many cultural inuences there really are on this little waypost of an island. Coupled with the amazing dive adventures that await just offshore, the onshore adventures will cause a nice little tug-of-war for your time. And when you cant decide what to do next, thats when youll realize just how special a place Tobago is.

Top: Thick growth decorates the sheer vertical wall on the ocean side of the Sisters dive site on the Caribbean side of Tobago. Above Right: The half-mile path to the famous Argyll Falls sometimes takes as much as an hour to walk because the guides are tremendously skilled at nding many of the beautiful species of birds that call Tobago home. Right: The friendly locals of Tobago, seen here at a house in the hilltop town of Patience Hill. Special Advertising Section W e b s i t e : w w w . v i s i t t o b a g o . g o v . t t w w w . V i s i t T N T. c o m E m a i l : i n f o @ t d c . c o . t t

Le Tahaa Resort doesnt sit on mainland Tahaa, but rather on one of its motu called Tautau, a fi ve-minute boat ride away. From Le Tahaa you can see Bora-Boras Mount Otemanu rising in the distance.

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ECO LUXE

Perfect 1O
when you dream of travel, do you often picture something like this? Where by the second day you feel like youve been there all your life? And where worries melt (or are massaged) away? If you are ready to sink into paradise, we have prescribed 10 private island resorts that appear like mirages in the midst of seas and lagoons, with staff typically greeting you jetty-side, tropical drink in hand. We rmly believe, however, that mending your soul in faraway, pampering places isnt a privilege but a necessity, so in our Access Guide weve also chosen eight other lower-priced options (page 100).

C O U R T E S Y L E TA H A A

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Beach villas have private gardens and pools. Opposite: Lounge beneath your beds gauzy canopy after snorkeling over a brilliant coral seascape, home to rays, turtles and reef fi sh.

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ECO LUXE

Le Tahaa
M O T U TAU TAU, S O C I E T Y I S L A N D S , TA H I T I

6:09 pm

I stumble out of bed and onto my deck, where I can see the South Pacic sun glittering upon the peaks of BoraBora in the distance and the rugged mass of Tahaa island behind me. With an overwhelming desire to breakfast in my skivvies, I reach for the room-service menu. An iced coconut parfait with roasted bananas and vanilla ... that will do just ne. Before the meal arrives, I dip into the lagoon outside my back door, splashing around with the tropical sh and eagle rays that frequent the aquamarine depths surrounding this motu, or islet, named Tautau. I meet resort guide Benjamin Marurai his jet-black hair pulled back in a ponytail for a private snorkel. Benjamin spots things that I would have never found solo: anemones with clownsh companions and a leopard eel that bares its little teeth at me. Afterwards, we nd a cooler waiting for us that contains ingredients for lunch fresh ahi tuna, onions, carrots, cucumber, tomatoes and coconut milk. Benjamin deftly slices and dices them into poisson cru . We eat with our ngers from coconut shells. I board a speedboat from the motu to mainland Tahaa where I rent a tiny car for an afternoon of aimless wandering my favorite pastime. Tahaa is a classic high island dominated by volcanic peaks with incredibly fertile soil: Growing all over the island are pineapples, mangoes, avocados, grapefruit, soursop, ylang-ylang and vanilla lots of vanilla. Mai tai in hand, I watch dusk silhouette BoraBoras peaks and think this might be the single most incredible sunset I have ever seen. I hear the call of ancient drums and then realize its only my stomach, telling me that its time to eat. At the resorts Ohiri restaurant, perched in branches like a giant tree house, I order lobster medallions with coconut saffron rice. Theres only one way to round off a meal like that: with another dip in the lagoon. JOE YOGERST

9:24 am the stilts of my over-water bungalow,

Roused by waves splashing against

F R O M T O P : C O U R T E S Y L E TA H A A ; T Y S AW Y E R ; O P P O S I T E : K Y L E R O T H E N B O R G / PAC I F I C S T O C K

11 am

TUPAI BORA-BORA MAUPITI

HUAHINE

MOTU TAUTAU
RAIATEA TETIAROA

1:45 pm

MOOREA MAIAO

TAHITI MEHETIA

GET THERE
Fly to Papeete on Air Tahiti Nui. Transfer to Raiatea on Air Tahiti. Ferry 35 minutes from Raiatea to Le Tahaa on the resorts private boat shuttle. Rates from $980. letahaa.com

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ECO LUXE

Jumby Bay
L O N G I S L A N D, A N T I G UA

glass lled with chunks of succulent Antiguan black pineapple yellow despite its name and the other holding a plate of sweets. Eighteen days earlier, Jumby Bay e-mailed me asking if I had any special requests. The pineapple was the rst, but the sweets are a happy extra. After the women leave, I wonder about the other requests. There on my coffee table is #2: a CD by the soca band Red Hot Flames. I play it and listen awhile, stretched out on my carved four-poster bed. Only one hand is needed to steer my Ultra Cruz bike to Pasture Bay Beach because the three-mile paved path that rings the island is quite at. I cruise past manicured grass and the driveways of the islands 40 or so private manses. Nearly empty Pasture Bay complements the lapis sea, and I coax picture after picture from my digital camera, though it complains of low batteries. Embarrassed, I sit alone on the resorts ferry thats making a special trip for me. Id taken the seven-minute ride across to mainland Antigua before realizing Id left my wallet in my room. Im heading to Shirley Heights, the site of a weekly sunset party with food, booze and live steel-pan and reggae music on Antiguas south coast. Maybe Ill bring the ferry captain a rum punch as thanks. But then I decide against it. He is driving. After roasted mahi-mahi with pawpaw and plumtomato salsa in Jumby Bays Estate House restaurant, an ivy-covered 230-year-old former plantation manor, Im in my villa considering my options: bathe in the deliciously large tub or outside in the private shower-nook? Theres really no question. I tote Jumbys luxe Lady Primroses products outside and disrobe. Showering out in the open is thrilling, and with its privacy walls, no one can see me. I look up for constellations, and stars wink at me from the nights dark sky. KELLY LACK

11:38 am open! Two ladies enter, one carrying a martini

While unpacking, I hear a polite knock. Doors

1:15 pm

4:45 pm

9:56 pm

FLORIDA

GET THERE
Fly to Antigua on American Airlines. Choose to be met by resort staff and transported by car to the dock (oneway drive is $25 per person), where the resorts private ferry will take you to Long Island. Rates from $775, including all meals and drinks. jumbybayresort.com
CUBA

HAITI

PUERTO RICO

LONG ISLAND
DOMINICAN REPUBLIC

54

Relax in solitude on the tip of Jumby Bay Beach. Opposite top: Jumbys Verandah Restaurant serves fresh coconuts adorned only with straws. Opposite bottom: Bathing outdoors, youll be au naturel in nature.

C O U R T E S Y J U M B Y B AY ( 3 )

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After a day of sunning yourself in central Venices only pool, spend the evening in town and then retire to your sumptuous suite. Opposite: Stroll through the hotels lush gardens.

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Hotel Cipriani
G I U D E C C A I S L A N D, V E N I C E , I TA LY
H O L L E N B E C K P R O D U C T I O N S ; O P P O S I T E C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P : WA LT E R B I B I K O W / A L A M Y; C O U R T E S Y H O T E L C I P R I A N I ; A N D R E A P I S T O L E S I

Canal, abuzz with boat trafc; beyond that is a panorama of Venice: the Basilica di San Marco, the Palazzo Ducale and the rest of the enchanted, oating city. Its my rst day in Venice, but I resist the urge to rush off. Ive waited a long time to get here, and I want to experience the city for the rst time at sunset. Plus, Ive a good excuse to dawdle: My room is something out of a Vivaldi composition sweet, sumptuous and accented with rich, buttery tones. Set in 15th-century Palazzo Vendramin, the oldest part of the hotel, I have a slanted alcove roof and parquet windows, which I leave open as I slip back under the silk coverlet. As I wander through gardens toward the hotels main building, I notice tiny purple grapes growing along the trellises. Giudecca Island had a few vineyards back when it was an escape for Venetian nobility, and these grapes will be harvested for the hotels private vintage, Casanova Salso. Hotel founder Giuseppe Cipriani would have approved; a pioneering foodie, he introduced both the Bellini and carpaccio at his famous Harrys Bar across the canal. After a simple lunch of homemade ravioli and a glass of prosecco, I stretch out poolside on a chaise, full and spoiled. Cipriani has the only pool in central Venice olympic-sized, heated, lled with ltered salt water and blissfully quiet. People thought Giuseppe was mad when he founded the hotel here in 1958 who would want to be across from Venice instead of in it? But therein lies the appeal. I enjoy the city from afar and wait for evening, when the marble walls will radiate a subtle pink as daytrippers depart and Venice returns to the Venetians. I board the private launch for the ve-minute crossing into town. On the canal, light catches on every ripple. No matter how many times you see it, it always catches your breath, says a gentleman next to me. I know my night will be perfect. And yet I look forward to my return. SUSAN MOYNIHAN

10 am and gaze out. Below me is the Giudecca

I roll out of bed, open the largest window

2 pm

GIUDECCA ISLAND

ITALY
Adria t ic Se a CORSICA

3:30 pm

Tyrrhenian Se a

SARDINIA

SICILY

GET THERE
Fly to Venice on American Airlines. Transfer from the airport to the hotel by water taxi for around $165. Or, from the airport, taxi to the Piazetta San Marco (near St. Marks Square) and take the hotels free boat service to the island. Rates from $817, including breakfast. The hotel is closed from November 19 to March 8, and the Palazzo and Palazzetto are closed from January 7 to April 6. hotelcipriani.com

6 pm

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Pangkor Laut
M A L AY P E N I N S U L A , M A L AY S I A

1 pm oating kingdom from the turquoise Strait of Malacca, its

As we approach by boat, Pangkor Laut emerges like a

3 pm 5 pm

8 pm

stilted, dark-wood bungalows looking more like chalets fashioned in traditional Malay style. Granite boulders tumble along the shore, and a jungle drapes the four-acre island that sits off the coast of the Malay Peninsula. I walk the raised, wooden-plank walkway to my Sea Villa where, jet lagged, I draw a bath in the deepest of stone tubs, push open the frosted-glass windows and let the steamy Asian air hypnotize me. I open my heavy eyelids just in time to see a teakwood tongkong boat sail by. Although the resident naturalist, Mr. Yip, is available to take a jungle trek with me, I opt to walk solo through Pangkor Lauts two-million-year-old rainforest to Emerald Bay on the west side of the private island. Its a steep walk, but Im rewarded with monitor lizards sunning on rocks, the distinct sounds of macaque monkeys squabbling in the thick canopy overhead and loads of colorful butteries. My feet are being pounded by a tiny woman in the Japanese Bath House, part of the Spa Village here. Im told this ritual was specially reserved for the concubines of feudal China, but Im not complaining at the comparison. Between a cold dip in a rock pool and a hot dip in a Rotenburu pool, I lean over steam pots to inhale scents that are marked detoxifying, passion, calming and uplifting. I linger at calming. After my campur-campur treatment, which combines Malay and Thai massage techniques, I nod off in my sarong in a napping pavilion, a pagoda-like, open-air structure near the beach. I walk toward swaying red silk lanterns. They mark Uncle Lims, a restaurant built on a rock overlooking the sea. I order an embarrassing amount of Hockchew Chinese-style dishes, but my favorite is the crispy, delicate soft-shell crab. As I head to my villa, a thin mist rises around the island. Like a good disciple of Eastern philosophies (and after all my impromptu naps), I suddenly feel awake refreshingly aware and at peace. christine richard
THAILAND LAOS

BURMA

CAMBODIA VIETNAM

GET THERE
Fly to Kuala Lumpur on Malaysia Airlines.Taxi 45 minutes to the domestic airport in Subang and fly to Pangkor on Berjaya Air. A resort guide will meet you and transfer you by boat to Pangkor Laut. Rates from $275, including food and non-alcoholic drinks. pangkorlautresort.com

PANGKOR LAUT
MALAYSIA

South China Se a BRUNEI

SARAWAK

SUMATRA

INDONESIA

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F R O M T O P : C O U R T E S Y PA N G K O R L AU T; T H O M AS H A LT N E R ; C O U R T E S Y PA N G K O R L AU T; O P P O S I T E : T H O M AS H A LT N E R

Respite can be found inside your Spa Villa and a short walk away at the Spa Villages lotus ponds and herb gardens. Opposite from top: Stilted Spa and Sea Villas; The Samudra restaurant; Emerald Bay.

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East Beach waits for you. Opposite from top: Felled alien tree species were used in the resorts construction; balance your chakra with an outdoor spa treatment; choose from North Islands 11 villas.

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North Island
I N N E R I S L A N D S G R O U P, S E Y C H E L L E S

light xtures and door hinges is crafted from local materials: takamaka, casuarina and banuas woods; bamboo, sandstone and granite. The teak oors are so smooth that I dont dare wear shoes, and it is a bit unfair to call the bathroom a bathroom. It is more of a second villa with a tub large enough for a party. My daughter, Eugenie, is in the outdoor shower: A waterfall cascades from a log. Im unsure whether she will ever get out. I head down to the Indian Ocean for a dip and am surprised to see an enormous tortoise. It raises its head, albeit only for a moment, as if to nod in the direction I need to go. Upon my return from the beach, I meet the tortoises family. Eugenie and I offer them mashed bananas. They are displeased, I think, with our lack of imagination. Here, nobody cares how or why or when you conduct your day. So, we request to have our lunch on Honeymoon Beach, a stretch of deserted sand reached by a short buggy ride through the forest. Footprints mar our beach! We soon realize that they are only the evidence of the staff that had been there moments before to arrange a lunch of wine, fresh lobster and organic salads. We walk to Grande Anse Beach and come across the rustic North Island Sunset Bar. After a showstopping sunset, the moon showers phantom daylight across the ocean. The path home is covered in snails chattering so loudly we think coconuts are falling its snail mating season. Our game is to make it all the way to our villa without crunching a single snail underfoot. Once we are home, we sit and listen to the waves, look at the stars and breathe. This is a tranquil haven from my public life, a place where I feel I am part of the scenery rather than an intruder. The magical and therapeutic powers of North Island will be everlasting. SARAH FERGUSON ( For more of the Duchess experience on North Island, go to page 97.)

10 am North Island everything from beds and bathtubs to

I walk through the rooms of our thatched-roof villa on

F R O M T O P : C O U R T E S Y N O R T H I S L A N D ( 2 ) ; R I PA N I M AS S I M O / F O T O T E C A 9 X 1 2 ; O P P O S I T E : C O U R T E S Y N O R T H I S L A N D

11 am

1:30 pm

5:40 pm

7 pm

GET THERE
TANZANIA

Ind ian Oc e an SEYCHELLES

Fly to Mah Island, Seychelles, from London on Air Seychelles and transfer to North Island by helicopter. Round-trip helicopter rates from $1,700. Resort rates from $1,999 per person, including meals, beverages, scuba diving courses and use of buggy. north-island.com

ZAIRE

NORTH ISLAND
MALAWI MOZAMBIQUE

ZIMBABWE Mo za mb ique Channe l

MADAGASCAR

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Top: Casa Brisa. Bottom from left: Take your meals, such as this prawn salad, anywhere youd like. Then, relax in Casa Mananas open-air bedroom. Opposite: Paddle around tiny Cayo Espanto.

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Cayo Espanto
O F F A M B E R G R I S C AY E , B E L I Z E

Cayo Espantos dock. Insignicant information really, but I awoke early and wanted to explore my private slice of Belize. So I decide to measure the size of it in footsteps. A walk across the entire length of the islet (223 steps total) takes me through a palm-tree-studded forest with a sand oor that has been raked with spiral patterns by someone who evidently got up earlier than I. Four more casas are hidden near the Caribbean shore, but I see no other castaways. The moment I return to my villa, Eddie, my houseman, delivers chunky banana pancakes and fresh slices of fruit. Signicant information: Aurora means dawn. German, my boat captain, brings me to Shark Ray Alley, part of Hol Chan Marine Reserve, about 15 minutes by boat from Cayo. The snorkeling is stupendous; I spot an eagle ray, nurse sharks and many tropical sh. We motor to the west side of Ambergris Caye for a picnic. Eddie and the staff have transported a Hobie Cat and kayaks, and a CD player is spinning my favorite musician, Aimee Mann. Then German prepares my favorite lunch, grilled snapper and lobster, while I nosh on my favorite appetizer, ceviche. A perfect afternoon of favorites all because Cayo Espanto knows the art of pampering. Im oating in my villas pool with a frozen margarita in hand when Eddie comes in to announce the chefs arrival. Chef Patrick recites the dinner specials as I oat. I choose the third: achiote-rubbed ank steak. Moments later, I walkie-talkie Eddie to conrm my poolside coconut body scrub. Its all been arranged, he tells me. Tiki torches and candles icker along the dock. The staff has set up this corner of the islet especially for me. Next to the single, white-linen table is a sofa with a tent-like draping over it that whips in the ocean breeze. I sit on its cushions and take in all the curves of the universe. Eddie walks up the dock, carrying a silver tray, stars twinkling behind him. Cayo Espanto, I think, has directed the best movie of the year. I call it, Cayo Pamperato (Im Never Leaving). CR

7 am shutters, is approximately 99 steps from

Casa Aurora, my open-air villa with turquoise

11 am

MEXICO

CAYO ESPANTO
BELIZE GUATEMALA HONDURAS EL SALVADOR NICARAGUA

Pa c if ic Oc e an COSTA RICA

Caribb e an Se a

5 pm

B O B F R I E L ; O P P O S I T E : L O R I B A R B E LY ( 4 )

GET THERE
Fly to Belize City on American Airlines and then to San Pedro, Ambergris Caye on Tropic Air. Ferry from there to Cayo Espanto on the resorts private boat. Rates from $1,695 per night with a fi ve-night minimum stay, including meals and a private houseman. aprivateisland.com

PANAMA

COLOMBIA

8 pm

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Explore Lanais diverse landscape in a Jeep. Opposite from top left: Stroll through the boulderstrewn Garden of the Gods, then relax on the porch with a pineapple cider. Grab your surfboard and catch a wave on Polihua Beach.

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C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P : T O M T I L L ; C O U R T E S Y F O U R S E AS O N S R E S O R T L A N A I , T H E L O D G E AT K O E L E ; R O N DA H L Q U I S T / PAC I F I C S T O C K ; O P P O S I T E : G R E G VAU G H N

Four Seasons Resort Lanai, The Lodge at Koele

L A N A I , H AWA I I

style room. Then I inhale the salt air mixed with plumeria and the earthy sweet tones of pineapple. Here, at the lodge, I can retreat into its wooded uplands but, at the same time, I can be at the beach within 20 minutes. Lanais not entirely a private island, but roughly 90 percent is privately owned. My belly lled with French toast and locally-grown coffee, I hop on one of the resorts bicycles (equipped with a lunch basket prepared by the hotels chef ) and pedal past a couple heading to the horse stables, while another sets out for a guided hike. Every venue and activity, Ive learned, is either part of or arranged by the resort, including mine: a 200-acre sporting clay-pigeon range. Within moments, Im tracking the high-tech discs across the sky, only to discover that Im a fairly good shot. The concierge puts me in a Jeep with a map, some sunscreen and a towel. Soon, Im banking turns on a red-dirt road, dodging lava rock and, nally, I pop out on secluded Polihua Beach, only a few miles from The Lodge at Koele. The only inhabitant on this stretch of powdery sand, aside from a few sea turtles, is Nick Palumbo II local boy, former pro surfer and my instructor for an afternoon of wave-riding. While practicing, Palumbo nods over my now-tanned shoulder at some visitors who have come to watch: A school of spinner dolphins not 50 yards out dance atop the water. After a sunset spent planted in a rocking chair on the lodges expansive porch, pineapple cider in hand, it is time to head in for some sustenance. I sidle up to the Tea Room Bar, where a replace is being lit. Over aged scotch and an ahi sashimi rose, I chat with the other guests, listening to their tales of adventure and sharing some of my own. Then, from the Great Hall, a trio begins strumming a ukulele, guitar and stand-up bass, mimicking the sounds of Hawaiis paniolos (cowboys), and explaining some of the lore that surrounds the great wooded isle of Lanai. Its now that I realize I am in a special place. BRIAN BERUSCH

7:45 am Island pine just beyond the lanai that skirts my lodge

I awake to two mynah birds conversing in a Norfolk

10 am

1:30 pm

KAUAI

OAHU MOLOKAI

MAUI

6:45 pm

GET THERE
Fly to Oahu, Maui or the Big Island and then to Lanai City on Hawaiian Airlines. Or, from Maui, take the Expeditions ferry from Lahaina Harbor to Lanai. $25 per person each way, go-lanai.com. Resort rates from $295. lodgeatkoele.com

LANAI

BIG ISLAND

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Little Palm Island

F L O R I DA K E Y S , U. S . A .

Miami FLORIDA

Gulf o f Mexic o PLANTATION KEY

KEY LARGO

MARATHON

ISLAMORADA

KEY WEST BOCA CHICA

LITTLE PALM ISLAND

Fly to Key West International Airport on Delta. Drive the 28.5 miles or take the luxury Escalade transfer ($125 each way per couple) to Little Torch Key, where the hotels private boat will ferry you to the island. Rates from $680, including breakfast and all non-alcoholic beverages. littlepalm island.com

10 pm

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GET THERE

though only 15 minutes by launch from Little Torch Key in the Florida Keys, I feel as if Ive awakened in a faraway place. The waitress delivers a plate of French toast, and the sweet smell snaps me to reality. I spread creamy almond mascarpone and a dab of guava jelly on a piece. The avors unfold on my tongue as I spot one of the tiny maybe two feet tall Key deer munching on sea-grape leaves. Now I understand why all the lower branches on the islands trees are bare. I paddle my kayak to an uninhabited neighboring island, navigate the red mangroves around its outer edges and nd myself lost in a maze of the trees tall, arching prop roots. Rather than struggle, I stop and enjoy the silence. Then I hear the call of a heron and see the birds elegant shape emerge from the camouage of its wetland habitat. The tide is out, and Rolando, the beach attendant, insists on carrying a table out to the sandbar for me, 50 feet from shore. Eating lunch in what seems like the middle of the Atlantic an expansive blue sky, warm sunshine and a soothing breeze is over the top. The vibrating sound of a gong signals sunset. I rush to the beach to join the small group of guests and, with a rum runner in hand, watch the aming ball descend. Dinner is served alfresco on the waters edge, and I delve into crab-stuffed Florida lobster with tomato salsa, Key-lime beurre blanc and chipotle pepper aioli. A delicious mango fragrance permeates my bungalow. The staff has lit aromatic candles, turned down the bed and laid out chocolate trufes. Before turning in, I soak in the swirling waters of a barrel hot tub on the veranda and consider booking a snorkeling trip to nearby Bahia Honda State Park tomorrow. Maybe Ill get lucky and see an endangered hawksbill sea turtle. PATRICIA LETAKIS

9 am the placid waters that surround Little Palm Island. Al-

From the restaurants weather-worn terrace I gaze at

10 am Noon 8 pm

Rejuvenate in the Zen Garden. Opposite from left: Relax on the lawn with a book from the Great Room Library; choose a clay body mask or maybe a sea-salt rub at Spa Terre; dine alfresco, ocean-side.

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Sup on succulent shrimp skewers dished out by Chef Heath around Wilson Islands communal dining table in The Longhouse. Then search out nesting sea turtles before retiring to your luxe beach tent.

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Wilson Island
G R E AT B A R R I E R R E E F, AU S T R A L I A

lightening darkness. The morning breeze rustles my luxetent guest room, one of six on this natural, coral-cay Eden. Small waves roll up onto the beach a few feet from my pillow. I rise and walk along the shore to the nature-carved Flintstone Chairs, the best spot to see the sun rise over the 1,200-mile-long Great Barrier Reef. I hover, snorkeling over one of the most pristine reefs Ive ever seen, punctuated by purple, yellow and red corals. The reef ripples with the movements of legions of iridescent sh, shy crabs and wildly colored sea slugs, and then I get lucky a manta ray passes, looking like an animated ying carpet. Its grace reveals my own awkwardness in the water. But I dont care. Im in awe, and the water feels like cool silk caressing my body. I wander to the beach where all 12 of Wilson Islands guests have gathered to watch the sunset. I sip Tanqueray and tonic, nibbling on canaps as the sun tumbles over the edge of the earth, accompanied by the cries of hundreds of wedge-tailed shearwaters. Its equal parts clamor and serenity, and despite the thread count of my sheets, the hot showers and the kingsize bed even a bit island-primal. Our group makes its way to The Longhouse for a candlelit, three-course meal paired with several bottles of shiraz, all in the embrace of this natural world. I have just watched a 400-pound green sea turtle heave herself up the beach. Getting up the beach past the high-water mark takes considerable effort. Sand ies as she digs a hole to lay her eggs and then covers them nimbly. I wish I could return in April to see the hundreds of hatchlings sprinting to the sea to start their lives of mystery. I walk back to my tented lodgings, let the million sounds of nature wrap around me like a sheet and race off to sleep in anticipation of another day on this, the loveliest island campground on the globe. ty sawyer

Sunrise of the day. Seabirds call out in the

I have been awoken by the stirring

10 am

GET THERE
AUSTRALIA

C O U R T E S Y VO YAG E S ; O P P O S I T E : B L AS I U S E R L I N G E R ( 5 ) ; T U R T L E : C O U R T E S Y VO YAG E S

Co ra l Se a

5 pm

QUEENS LAND

Fly to Gladstone, Australia, via Brisbane on Qantas. From the Gladstone Marina, transfer by boat (Heron Spirit Launch) to Heron Island. From there a resort boat will transfer you 45 minutes to Wilson Island. Package rates from $1,915 per person for fi ve nights (three nights on Wilson Island and two on Heron Island) include meals and beverages. Starting April 1, nightly rates will be available from $495. wilsonisland.com

T E A G R

B
A

R
R

I
E
R

R
F E E

11 pm

WILSON ISLAND
Gladstone

Brisbane

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Peter Island
BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS

GET THERE
FLORIDA

1 pm

CUBA

HAITI

PUERTO RICO

DOMINICAN REPUBLIC

PETER ISLAND

5 pm

6 pm

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C O U R T E S Y P E T E R I S L A N D R E S O R T; O P P O S I T E C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P : T E R R Y H A R R I S / A L A M Y; C O U R T E S Y P E T E R I S L A N D R E S O R T; S T E V E S I M O N S E N

Fly to San Juan, Puerto Rico, on American Airlines and then to Tortola, British Virgin Islands, on American Eagle. Transfer to Peter Island via the resorts private yacht. Rates from $560, including meals. peterisland.com

Island. I am utterly alone, and the 1,800-acre island save a small portion occupied by the resort seems to be all mine. Thirsty, I stop at Sunset Overlook, where a thermos of ice water awaits, placed there just for me. I pause to take in the view: a smattering of lush islands separated only by impossible blue. I spot Norman Island, said to be the inspiration for Robert Louis Stevensons Treasure Island . I take the resorts shuttle to White Bay Beach one of ve secluded Caribbean beaches exclusively used by resort guests and about half a mile from my suite where I dip into the peacock-blue water. Beneath me slithers a spotted eel, and I watch a rainbow-colored parrotsh peck at the seaoor. This may be snorkel-bliss, but one day Ill go deeper, diving the nearby wreck of the HMS Rhone la Jacqueline Bisset in The Deep . I emerge to nd a staff member delivering my idea of the perfect picnic: brie, fruit and chocolate-chip cookies, served on a silver platter. Undone by a frangipani-and-coconut moisturizing treatment at the resorts new seaside spa, I indulge in a bubble bath in my hot tub. Steam rising around me, I look out the picture window to a slice of sea. In the distance is Dead Chest Island, where Blackbeard marooned 15 mutinous men, leaving them with just a cask of rum; hence the pirate ditty Fifteen men on the Dead Mans Chest, yo-ho-ho and a bottle of rum. Perhaps its time for a Painkiller, the fruit-juice-and-rumlled drink of the BVIs, topped with freshly grated nutmeg. I watch dusk unfold from the beach outside my suite and see mega-yachts cross the horizon. In the harbor is the Silmaril, the resorts own yacht. Shes at my disposal, and tomorrow the crew will sail me wherever I wish perhaps Charlotte Amalie on St. Thomas for some shopping, or maybe well anchor in a lovely bay where I can picnic in the salt breeze and dive into the sea. jennica peterson

9 am mile trail through the scrubby green hills of Peter

I wake and decide to climb part of the steep ve-

Explore Peter Island, your own 1,800-acre playground. Pamper yourself and a loved one with a massage in the open-air treatment room; discover the underwater world. Opposite: Frolic in the hot tub.

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Uninhabited and virtually untouched by man until nearly the end of the 18th century, the islands of the Seychelles have been considered the original Garden of Eden almost from the moment of their discovery. Today, the islands exist in that rare realm where the raw purity and the exquisite sensuality of nature are combined. This is Eden, and this is where our search begins.

In Search of Eden

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Two contrasts of the raw beauty of the Seychelles: Anse Source dArgent (this page) on the island of La Digue and the Valle de Mai (opposite) on Praslin.

story by

Ty Sawyer

photos by

Alison Wright

T
74

hat night at the pub, the night before i left for the seychelles, there was a consensus. I was going to Eden. Eden, the London cabbie said, since London cabbies have been around a bit and are experts on these things. Thats where youre going, lad. Unsurpassed beauty then, init? Oh, yeah, just so you know: I dont live in London. I left from my home in Orlando, Florida. But since I was traveling through London, and Im a sucker for a good pint, I decided to stop over on my way to well, Eden. So, have you ever been? I asked a pint-clad professor (which pubs are known for, yeah?) sitting at the bar. Well, no, but a mate of mine went last year and stayed just stayed on. Lives there now. Sent me an e-mail and told me hed found Eden, and could I please put the dog out while he was away. He loved that dog, so it must be a ripping good bit of real estate, then, mustnt it? It was genuinely hard to argue with such logic. You know what I like about Eden, mate? a young punk chirped from the end of the bar. The serpent. Good stuff that serpent. Made Eden interesting, then, didnt it? Yes, indeed. Unsurpassed beauty and the appealing vestige of a wily biblical serpent? Now were talking Eden.

In a sanctuary within a nation of sanctuaries, guests at the Frgate Island Private resort can explore pirate ruins and banyan-tree forests full of rare fairy terns or laze on beaches such as Grand Anse.

the notion of the seychelles being eden actually began with the slightly eccentric and erotic thoughts of a British general named Charles Gordon. When he saw the raw and extraordinary beauty of the Valle de Mai (which, among other possible meanings, translates as Valley of May, the month in which it was discovered apparently the creative juices for naming things werent percolating too well) on the island of Praslin, he immediately claimed that hed discovered the original Garden of Eden. He gured the nut of the coco de mer palm tree, which only grows naturally on this island (and nearby Curieuse), was the forbidden fruit of Genesis due to its uncanny

resemblance to a womans legs, bum, belly and thighs (complete with an appropriately placed tuft of hair). Obviously hed been at sea for quite some time, for when he wrote about it, his sunburned biblical interpretations rationalized that, the heart is said by the scriptures to be the seat of desires, and the fruit [the nut of the coco de mer] externally represents the heart, while the interior represents the thighs and belly which I consider to be the true seat of carnal desires. People, due to the same physical interpretations, also consider the nut, which can weigh up to 44 pounds (in other words, dont fall asleep under this tree on a windy day), an aphrodisiac. Known in aphrodisiacal circles as love nuts, and highly prized as a result, they are protected by the Seychelles government, which had to institute a strict love-nut licensing policy to prohibit poaching. Interestingly, no one knows how these palms actually pollinate. Local legends state that, when storms pass through the Seychelles, male palms, which can reach almost 100 feet high, uproot themselves and have their way with female palms (80 feet) in a rowdy, wind-blown orgy. Of course, if you witness this carnal myth, so the legends go, you will surely die on the spot. So, I was pretty anxious to see the place. about 1,000 miles off africas east coast in the vivid blue waters of the Indian Ocean, the 115 astonishingly lovely islands that make up the Seychelles remained uninhabited, primitive and remote until almost the end of the 18th century, when the French claimed the islands and gave them a starter population that consisted of 15 whites, ve Malabar Indians and eight Africans. Except for transient pirates looking for a place to stash their booty, the odd sherman and Arab traders traversing the Indian Ocean, there was little impact from the hand of man. As a result, the Seychelles is a place of wild legends drawn from dark imaginations and nature in the raw. And after a nine-and-a-half-hour ight from London to Mah Island and a 15-minute island-hopper ight to Praslin, Im about to experience the surreal and ancient scenery of the Seychelles, including the World Heritage-listed Valle de Mai, which is where Im currently headed. Im riding in a hired car owned by a company that proudly boasts it was the ofcial supplier of cars for the movies Castaway, Pirate and Robinson Crusoe an interesting and modern contrast to the prehistoric forest were heading toward, the likes of which denitely hosted dinosaurs. My guide, whos driving, and I leave from the airport and head into the mountains. I notice the palms long before we actually reach the parking lot and entrance to Praslin National Park. Theyre massive and, unlike most palms, they have leaves so immense they could be effectively used for roong material or airplane wings. When we arrive at the trailhead and enter the forest, its as if weve been drawn through a portal in time. The enormous leaves spread out above the path like the ceiling of a cathedral. And theres a hush thats punctuated only by the creaks and groans of trunks swaying in the breeze. The female trees are heavy with ripening love nuts and the male trees are absolutely

Soak in your private hot tub on Frgate Island or indulge in the deeply sybaritic impulses of the islands Rock Spa. A brief walk off the path on Frgate will lead to a giant land-tortoise encounter. On Praslin, disappear into the ancient world of the coco de mer at the Valle de Mai (top).

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Constance Lemuria Resort

PRASLIN

secure and distinctive in their maleness, with suggestive catkins covered in small owers. The trees mature at a glacial pace, my guide relates. Once the seeds germinate, its 15 years before a trunk appears. Its certainly indicative of the pace of life on Praslin, too. The young trees until that point are recognizable by 46-foot leaves that sprout directly from the ground. I look for dinosaurs to appear around every bend, fully believing that in this place such things could still exist. Its not quite the idyllic place that my mind conjures when thinking about Eden, but fascinating in its primitive atmosphere. Eden, however, I would soon discover, was waiting for me at a place that once was the home of exiled Jacobin terrorists.

Hilton Seychelles Northolme Resort & Spa

Valle de Mai

LA DIGUE
Anse Source dArgent

Victoria

FRGATE

MAH ISLAND
Banyan Tree Seychelles

PL AN YOUR TR IP islands.com/seychelles

i arrive on frgate island, the most remote of the seychelles granitic islands, in a snowstorm of seabirds. Fairy terns, looking like pure-white, MAH LULLABY Spend the night at the Banyan Tree Seychelles on Mah Islands feathery angels, rise from their trees on their way to the days hunt at sea, and about southwest coast. Some villas are decoa zillion brown noddies are piled onto almost every available branch on every tree rated with eclectic paintings by local artist on the island. Offshore, lesser frigate birds patrol the sky as the chartered plane George Camille inspired by the coco de mer nut. Rates from $1,350, ban lands on the private islands grass strip. To get to Frgate, I had to y yantree.com. On northwest Mah, back from Praslin to Mah, the largest and main island of the Sey- DETAILS FLY to the Seythe Hilton Seychelles Northolme chelles from London on Air chelles, then change planes for the 34-mile ight to this exclusive, Seychelles. airseychelles Resort & Spa has oceanfront and hillside villas overlooking the Inprivate island. Only 40 guests are allowed on the island at a time, .com OVERNIGHT in London dian Ocean. Seek out surrounding at the Chesterfi eld Mayfair and most sequester themselves away in one of 16 lavish villas. beach coves and visit the Duniye Hotel near Berkeley Square. Frgate operates like its own country. Its almost entirely self- Rates from $377. chester Spa. Rates from $610, including breakfast. thenortholmehotel.com sustaining. Most of the fresh fruit and vegetables guests eat are fi eldmayfair.com HOP from PRASLINS VILLAS AND VALLES plucked from the ground the same day they show up on the menu. island to island on a chopper The Constance Lemuria Resorts from Helicopter Seychelles Same goes for sh from the sea. palm-thatched villas are perched LTD. One-way transfers I am whisked off by golf cart (called a buggy) from the airport to from around $111 per person. on Anse Kerlan, one of Praslins my villa overlooking one of Frgates seven sumptuous beaches, Anse helicopterseychelles.com GET longest beaches, on the islands AROUND Praslin in a car from northwest coast. Take a dip in the Bambous. To call it a villa is a disservice. Built in an architectural style Prestige Car Hire. Rates from three-tiered pool or watch for born in Bali, each villa has a spacious bedroom with a canopy bed, a around $64 a day. 011-248-23sea turtles nesting on the beach from your private terrace. Rates separate living room, indoor and outdoor showers, a private terrace 32-26 BUY emptied coco de mer nuts at theValle de Mais from $572, including breakfast, and garden, a king-sized day bed and Jacuzzi. Its truly a haven and, souvenir shop. sif.sc SPEND lemuriaresort.com. Within the once Im left alone in it, I dont want to leave. But Frgate, of all the Seychelles Rupees. $1US 48-acre Valle de Mai, centrally located in Praslin National Park, Seychelles islands, is packed with wonders and legends of pirates = 5.45SCR LEARN MORE at seychelles.com. youll fi nd the infamous coco de and headless ladies. I knew Eden would be a well-rounded place. mer nut and the islands endemic Frgate is a wild island, says Steve Hill, the islands ecology manager. Steve black parrot. There is a $20 entrance fee, and licensed private guides lead one-hour and I leave from the main house and head off into the hills toward Mount Sigtours for about $12 per person. sif.sc nal, the islands 410-foot peak. Youre the rst person to take this trail, he says. LA DIGUES SILVER CACHE Plan to take Im working on returning the island back to its natural state. Its true: Steve, the the ferry from Praslin to La Digue to antithesis of most of the guests (That luxury stuff is foreign to a South African spend a day on perhaps the worlds most beautiful and recognizable beach, Anse bushwhacker, he says), is trying to transform the island, taking it back in time and Source dArgent. Rent bikes in town and erasing a history that at one time cleared ride the mile and a half to the famous the island of trees for farming and grazsands, then explore the spectacular coves hidden between the famous sea-sculpted ing. He closes his eyes and imagines the granite rocks. seychelles.net/iif island in 50 years in a balanced state. PRIVATE ISLAND SPLURGE With only 40 Steve takes me on a trail through a banguests allowed on the island at once, yan-tree forest that hes growing. Most Frgate Island Private Resort is truly Edenesque. The resort grows many of of these trees have been planted during the fruits and vegetables served in its the last 25 years and have shot to the sky two main restaurants and menus change like theyre reaching for heaven seasonally. Indulge in a lekor wrap (a body wrap using fresh papaya, mango and baand in a hurry to touch it. His eyes nana, followed by a full-body massage) at light up as he points out blue piThe Rock Spa. Rates from $2,800 a night, geons, Seychelles white eyes, magpie with a three-night minimum stay, including food and non-alcoholic drinks. fregate.com robins, fodies, sun- (continued on page 106)

The Forbidden Fruit

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Hidden worlds of beauty exist around nearly every corner of La Digue, especially at Anse Source dArgents picturesque and famous shoreline.

J a n u a r y/ Fe b r u a r y 2 0 0 7

photos by R. IAN LLOYD

empire of

Go slow or is it fast? TONY PERROTTET learns the subtleties of navigating the Australian sand island of Moreton.

sand
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Arrive by ferry to the third-largest sand island in the world, Moreton. Then let the fun begin: Visit The Desert and learn how to toboggan down its massive sand hills.

he tropics of australia never see snow, but that doesnt mean you cant go tobogganing: You just have to nd the right sand dune. I discovered this one summers afternoon on Moreton Island, a verdant slice of wilderness that lies off of Brisbane on the Queensland coast, while speeding along the beach in a four-wheel-drive vehicle. The worlds third-largest sand island, which is about 97 percent national park, Moreton has no real roads. Visitors are advised to travel around the coast at low tide, when the wet sand is packed down as smooth as a sidewalk. My family and I had already passed several hours exploring Moretons remote south side, an otherworldly terrain where the beach narrows into a golden corridor between the gently lapping waves and a tapestry of mangroves. Every stop had been spent in a nature-induced delirium: My 6year-old boy, Henry, chased armies of soldier crabs across the rippled ats, their blue forms scuttling in Napoleonic formation before disappearing down their holes. My wife, Lesley, waded in the crystalclear shallows while our 9-month-old baby, Sam, sat in 3-inch-deep sand pools, splashing and singing. But then, only a mile farther south, we found ourselves faced with a more daunting feature of Moreton Island. Mangroves miraculously parted to reveal 260-foot-high sand dunes towering above the beach with a helpful sign: BIG SANDHILLS. You guys should explore, Lesley said, eyeing the Martian expanse from behind dark glasses. With its retina-searing brilliance, it was no place for babies, so she stayed in the air-conditioned SUV with Sam while I followed Henry into the wilds. Les was right: After 10 minutes traipsing across this mini-Sahara, we were staggering like foreign legionnaires in Beau Geste . I was about to give up when I heard a shrill scream from above a shriek of joy. Skimming down the dune toward us were two swimsuit-clad Aussies on homemade sleds pieces of plywood, about 4 feet long by 18 inches wide. After they ground

to a halt at the mangroves nearby, the pair did a little victory dance and then waved to us. Y ou want a turn? the athletic, sun-bleached woman asked Henry. She was as brown as a nut and had a tattoo of a buttery across her shoulder. Her boyfriend was wearing a T-shirt that read, Its Funny Until Someone Gets Hurt. Then Its Hilarious. Yes, please! Henry yelled gamely, and so we dragged their toboggans up to the highest peak of the sand mountain. After taking a deep breath the steep dunes now felt like the Himalayas, only with incredible sea views we let y. As I hit what felt like warp speed, I must have let the front of my board dip, and suddenly sand was blasting into my mouth and eyes. (Twenty-ve miles an hour is a typical speed on the steepest dunes, as I was later assured by sand-tobogganing acionados.) Spitting

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grains, I rolled off the board and into some mangrove roots with Henry coming to a halt nearby. Youse all right? yelled the pair, once theyd stopped laughing. We looked at each other in amazement, then Henry yelled, Again! By the time we lurched back to the car, we were caked head to foot in sand. But wed been initiated into one of Moretons many arcane rites: We were masters of the dunes. visiting moreton island is an education in more ways than one and, in my case, the learning curve had begun a few weeks earlier, back home in wintry New York. My wife, a Queenslander born and bred, knew Moreton from childhood camping trips; her parents, both doctors, had always maintained a close association with the wild island, holidaying and shing off its fertile waters. It had been their backyard. Now they had decided it was also the place to celebrate their golden wedding anniversary. At rst, 9,000 miles did seem a long way to go for a party especially with two young kids in tow. But Les was adamant. There are seven children in her family and three times as many grand-

Every summer its powdery shores are colonized by families from Queensland who camp for weeks at a time, thus creating a unique island society in short, enjoying the ultimate Aussie holiday.
kids, and every last one of them was converging on this remote spot in the Down Under summer. What could I do but dig out the map? I soon discovered that Moreton is an approximately 24-mile-long arrowhead of sand and tropical bush lying 21 miles offshore from Brisbane. About 100 permanent residents are based in a trio of so-called villages that are really no more than a few beach houses around a grocery shop. And like the other sand islands surrounding Moreton Bay, its far from a desert: It has freshwater lakes and thick eucalyptus forests with evocative tree names like scribbly gum and pink bloodwood, as well as wildower groves thick with bird life. Moreton boasts the southern hemispheres highest coastal sand dune, Mount Tempest. The islands coast is littered with sunken ships around which you can snorkel or dive. And every summer its powdery shores are colonized by families from Queensland

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who often camp for weeks at a time, thus creating a unique island society. They bring their own 4WD vehicles over on the ferry and go shing, swimming, hiking and exploring rock pools in short, enjoying the ultimate Aussie holiday. As I looked out at Manhattans winter sleet, it wasnt sounding bad at all. and so we found ourselves in the suv hire ofce in downtown Brizzy, picking up a Toyota Land Cruiser and learning that visiting Moreton, like all true Aussie adventures, is very much an independent affair. The rental agent red off crucial advice on the art of sand driving correct tirepressure levels, the use of winches, how to lock gears and the difference between 4H and 4L until my head swam. But the most important thing on Moreton, she said blithely, was to study the tide book that she pressed into my hand. Your insurance is void if your car gets sucked out to sea, she chirped. Some German tourists just got hit for $40,000! Really? I gulped. Youll be all right, mate! she laughed. Just remember: Keep your momentum up. That way, you wont get bogged! We certainly hit the ground running: After installing the baby seat, we dashed around Brisbane, loading up with food, Crown Lager beer and an Esky (Australian cooler) plus ice, then sped out to the ferry station at the port. There we joined a line of rugged vehicles all heavily laden with supplies, including shing rods on the bonnets. One had BUSHMONSTER painted on the side in dripping letters; another had a sign across the front fender: OF COURSE WERE OK written upside-down. Children of all ages were running in between the trucks and, although we obviously had the only rental in the line, we were instantly accepted into this nomadic Aussie world. In fact, as we were waiting, a guy with a owing beard and Akubra hat began inspecting our car, rubbing his chin thoughtfully. Soon we were chatting about tire pressure and sand driving like the best of them. (Im going 30 PSI, I said condently. Really? No higher than 18 for me.) He introduced himself as Richard Brown, an environmental academic from Brisbane, and said he was camping with his 12-year-old daughter for a week. We try to do Moreton three or four times a year, he conded. Piece of bloody paradise. Soon we had all parked our beasts inside the miCat ferry, which was like a touristic version of a

If you decide to pioneer Moreton Island on your own, rev down Middle Road and take in the nature of the island, such as the scribbly gum and pink bloodwood trees.

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celebratory swim, tiny silver bream sh darted around our feet; green sea turtles cruised offshore and a herd of dugongs (manatees) wallowed off the south-west coast, feasting on seaweed. When I rented a kayak to explore the The Wrecks, ying sh skipped past me; I jumped over the side to snorkel among the schools of sh that exploded from the ships underwater portholes, turrets and cogs. Even the villa had a zoological feel: I picked up the phone and a gold beetle crawled out of the mechanism. As I opened cupboard drawers, geckos itted out of sight. Relaxing on the porch at sunset, I was joined by a bizarre stick insect (so named because they camouage themselves to resemble twigs or leaves) swaying above my head. Wed only traveled 75 minutes from Brisbane, but we already felt like wed fallen off the edge of the earth. the next afternoon i thought a cyclone had hit, but it was only the in-laws arriving the guests of honor, Ian and Gwen Thelander, plus the bevy of kids, grandkids and signicant others who had arrived from every corner of Australia, London and the United States. They had ensconced themselves a hundred yards away in the islands lone resort, Tangalooma Wild Dolphin Resort, a retro collection of beachfront rooms and villas built on the site of an abandoned whaling station. Its safe to say that the event was not your average 50th anniversary party, and not only because Gwen strolled along the beach in her original bridal veil like a medieval princess. In the cool of the dusk, we descended like an occupying army on the outdoor restaurant right on the sand and began chowing down on Moreton Bay bugs, which are not insects but succulent langoustine-like crustaceans that breed in the rich coastal mud ats. After the sun had dissolved into a lurid red horizon, the cry went up: Dolphin feeding! We all charged off toward the beach, where oodlights revealed a dozen bottlenose dolphins sweeping in from the bay. The resort has been feeding the dolphins since 1992, and they moved into the shallows like synchronized swimmers. Kicking off our sandals, Henry and I went up to our knees in the surf, each holding a sh by the tail that had been handed to us by a teenage attendant; a dolphin named Shadow, identied, the guides helpfully explained, by the marks on his dorsal n, came forward and delicately took the offering from our ngers before his porcelain anks disappeared into the surf. Cool, Henry opined, after checking to see

D-Day landing craft. We all dashed to the upper deck to watch Brisbane recede into the distance, chow down a meat pie and sip XXXX (Fourex) beer, a local brew. Seventy-ve minutes later, we were all gazing dreamily in the other direction as the shape of Moreton Island with its towering sand dunes loomed from the lime-green sea. Closer to shore, the skipper navigated through the 15 massive ships sunk in the shallows, their dark shapes rising from the waves. I soon found out why the miCat had a D-Day look: Moreton has no dock, so the ferry lowers its ramp directly onto the beach. A few minutes later, engines revving, we were all speeding out onto the sand, laughing maniacally, like characters out of Mad Max. We didnt have to drive far only half a mile, in fact. Camping is one way to experience Moreton, but for some creature comforts wed decided to book a private beach villa, one of only a handful on the island. Before long we were perched on our balcony directly over Tangaloomas beach, a little more than a half-mile-long expanse on the bay side of the island, watching dolphins arc across the horizon. When we raced down to the beach for a

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Snorkel The Wrecks off Moretons west coast to see intact ships and the lionfi sh and wobbegong sharks that haunt them. Since the early 60s, 15 vessels have been sunk to create an artificial harbor.

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This page, clockwise from top left: Bottlenose dolphins love these waters near Tangalooma Wild Dolphin Resort; soldier crabs in the shallows; fi shing for bream, dart or fl athead; North Point beach.

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This page, clockwise from top left: They were this big. A days catch on Moretons east coast; snorkeling round The Wrecks; Honeymoon Bays secluded beach; off the islands west coast.

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Sand hills at sunset

that his ngers were still there. Then we all dashed back to the beachfront restaurant for dessert. The Thelanders partied late into the night. Although wed met many times over the years, their family habits still seemed as exotic to me as any Melanesian clan using nicknames for one another like Clam-ray and Trundle, communicating in an invented language called arpy-darpy talk and playing their own version of Monopoly called Thelanderopoly. In a momentary lull I drew the portly patriarch, Ian, aside to chat about his adventures on Moreton. It was a pretty rough old place, the retired doctor laughed. He had begun shing off Moreton in the 1950s, he said, and had for many years kept a shack on the island with emergency supplies for when the winter gales blew in from the Pacic and churned the bay into a sailors nightmare. Once, hed had to jump out of his putt-putt when it was plowed down by

We burst from the shadows and charged onto a broad white-sand beach. No sooner did we jump out of the vehicle than it was obvious we were in a more elemental version of paradise.
a prawn trawler, and had been terried of being taken by the Noahs arks sharks. Things had become more civilized on Moreton since then but not by much. As we gazed out at the beach, a tropical storm was building: Lightning ashed so rapidly it was like a giant strobe had been switched on in the sky. follow the phases of the moon, a man in a straw sombrero and torn shirt told me as he squinted at the waves. Watch the tides. Despite his salt-ecked beard and wild hair, he wasnt a New Age prophet or back-to-nature primitive just a sunburned Aussie sherman trying not to get his Bushmonster bogged. The bottom line, he explained, is that you cant drive on the beach two hours on either side of high tide when the sand dries out and becomes soft. Oh yeah, he added thoughtfully. Keep your momentum up. The in-laws had left, leaving Tangalooma in eerie quiet. It was time for us to get into the 4WD and explore the wild side of Moreton. The supplies were prepared sangers (sandwiches), bickies (cookies) and Crownie beers in the Esky. After

Moreton Bay bugs

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Cape Moretons lighthouse is the oldest of its kind still in use in the state of Queensland. From June to October, humpback whales migrate past its post on the islands northeastern coast.

nearly being bogged in the car park an embarrassing start we hit the beach in high gear. It was an exhilarating feeling, skimming along the hard sand so much so that I had to keep an eye on the speedometer: A Queensland Police SUV tours Moreton in high season, and the two burly coppers, who may have the worlds cushiest beat, make sure the shermen obey the trafc laws. Soon we spotted a sign by the side of the beach announcing the Middle Road: It pointed to a trail heading inland, a golden thread into the bush. We began plowing along it at 10 miles per hour past yellow wattle and eucalyptus trees called ghost gums with eerie, white bark oozing ruby sap. It was a wild ride, wrestling with the steering wheel as if it might be torn from my hands any second and Ill never know what 9-month-old Sam made of the whole business, being tossed back and forth in his car seat like a rag doll. This sand track qualies as Moretons Route 66: It was cut through the islands bush-covered center by Australian soldiers in the darkest days of World War II, when General Douglas MacArthur used Brisbane as his (continued on page 104)
PL AN YOUR TR IP islands.com/moreton

Dolphins and Dunes

VROOM VROOM Rent a four-wheel-drive vehicle on the mainland and ferry it to the island. Four Wheel Drive Hire Service in Brisbane supplies Toyota Land Cruisers. Rates from $115 per day. A vehicle- access permit for Moreton Island must also be purchased for around $26, and youll need to fuel up in Brisbane. 4wdhire.com.au

North Point Cape Moreton Lighthouse

MORETON ISLAND

Blue Lagoon

The Middle SAND & SLEEP Moretons only hotel, the Wrecks Road Tangalooma Wild Dolphin Resort, is a collection of rooms and two-story villas built in 1962 on the islands west coast. Feed bottle- Tangalooma Wild Dolphin Resort nose dolphins by hand each night off the The Desert resorts jetty. Rates from $192. tangalooma.com

TOBOGGAN TIME Tangaloomas 4WD Desert SafariTour takes you sand tobogganing. Rates from $19 per person.The resort also arranges bird-watching and nature treks called bush tucker walks where you learn about the islands 64 edible plant species. tangalooma.com

Big Sandhills

DETAILS FLY to Brisbane on Qantas. qantas.com FERRY 75 minutes to Moreton from the docks at Lytton in Brisbane on the miCat vessel. Oneway rates for two adults with a 4WD are around $69.Without a 4WD, one-way rates are around $23 per person. micat.com.au DAY TRIP to Moreton for sand tobogganing, swimming and bird-watching on a tour with Moreton Bay Escapes. Rates from $91 per person, including picnic lunch. moretonbayescapes.com.au FEAST on Moreton Bay bugs and grilled reef fi sh atTangaloomasTursiops Restaurant. SPEND Australian Dollars. US$1=1.30AUD. LEARN MORE at moretonbayislands.com.au.

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s o h W me?
with

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93
THE 11 BEST HAWAIIAN BEACHES

97
DUCHESS DIARY READ ABOUT FERGIES TRAVELS

100
ISLANDS FOR LESS ECO-LUXE GETAWAYS FOR UNDER $300

ACC E S S

ISLANDS

Halona Cove, Oahu

sacred territory
OF THE WORLD LIST
ROBERT FRIED/ALAMY

BEST

THE 11 BEST AUTHENTIC HAWAIIAN BEACHES

beaches, of all places on the planet, brim with hidden possibilities. they are
worlds of respite, the launching grounds for great adventures; they are nurseries, the homes of legions of marine creatures and the neutral zone between the entropy of the land and the sensuality of the sea. Beaches are blessings. They shimmer with endless opportunity, renewed daily with the cleansing tide. Picking the best beaches on any of the Hawaiian Islands is a lovely but complex burden. Sand, sun, people, surf, access, privacy each has its own appeal. In the end, we chose these for their vibe one that resonates deep into the heart of Hawaii. They are places where the footprints of past kings mingle with our present-day trails, places you can claim as your own and whisper about as you pass the secret information to your friends and neighbors.

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Your Caribbean Gateway to Central America

Belize is a world of atolls, cayes and undersea adventure. From rainforest resort to Maya mystery to barrier reef, Belize offers unmatched diversity, only 2 hours from the U.S. And our people are as warm and friendly as the climate. Call 1-800-624-0686 or visit our website: www.travelbelize.org

Banyan Bay Resorts

A MBERGRIS C AYE
The Villas at Banyan Bay, a full service luxury resort rated The Best of Belize continues its reputation of Quality and Service. Also offering the Presidential Suites accommodations at our adjoining sister resort The Grand Colony Island Villas. All situated on 1000 of pristine Caribbean swimming beach. Snorkel, dive, fish, watersports and inland tours. Tel: 866 466 2179 Web: www.banyanbay.com

Radisson Fort George Hotel & Marina

B ELIZE C ITY
Premier hotel offers fine dining, two restaurants, Le Petit Cafe, two pools, fitness room, conference facilities and full-service marina. Daily tours to the reef, rainforest and archaeological sites. Tel: 800-333-3333 Fax: 011-501-227-3820 E-mail: amin.dredge@radisson.com Web: www.radisson.com/belizecitybz

Ramons Village Resort

A MBERGRIS C AYE
Exotic beachside island paradise awaits you! Thatched roof cabanas, lagoon-style pool, fabulous restaurant & renowned staff! Scuba diving, snorkeling, fishing, sailing, Mayan ruins tours & more! Tel: 1-800-MAGIC15 Fax: 601-649-1996 E-mail: info@ramons.com Web: www.ramons.com

Sueo del Mar

A MBERGRIS C AYE
Paradise Has A New Address! Experience carefree island living. Complete with a private beach. Fish, dive or snorkel in our turquoise Caribbean water. Onsite dive shop, Grill/Bar and pools. One, two or three bedroom luxury residences are still available starting at $50,000. Tel: 800-871-5373 E-mail: Teresa@coloradolandproperties.com

Turneffe Island Lodge

T URNEFFE ATOLL

Escape to your own private island just 30 miles off the mainland. An allinclusive resort for scuba divers, fishermen & snorkelers. All rooms are ocean view and elegantly appointed. Over 70 dive sites less than a mile from the island. Some of the best fishing in the Western Caribbean. Refer to code ID04. Tel: 800-874-0118 or 713-236-7739 E-mail: info@turneffelodge.com Web: www.turneffelodge.com

Call 1-800-624-0686 or visit our website: www.travelbelize.org

ACCESS

the best

KAHALA BEACH, OAHU Urban Honolulus secret beach hides behind the backyards of the states priciest real estate. But you dont have to be a billionaire to enjoy this gem. Drive along berrich Kahala Avenue looking for marked beach access. Try Hunakai Street where the swimming is the best. Sea horses are rare but sometimes seen among the coral. HALONA COVE, KOKO HEAD

visited two-mile stretch of sand, just on the other side of Punahoa Point on the south shore, near the Poipu resorts. Archaeologists have found fossil remains of extinct birds such as the long-legged owl here. Seabirds still nest in the nooks and crannies. Snorkeling is rewarding.
Napili Bay, Maui

G I OVA N N I S I M E O N E / F O T O T E C A 9 X 1 2

The famous and romantic love scene in From Here to Eternity was lmed in this dramatically beautiful cove carved into the lava coast of east Oahu. The precarious trail down from Blowhole Lookout has recently been improved to allow gownadorned brides access to the golden sands below. Watch for whales from December through May.
REGIONAL PARK, OAHU BELLOWS FIELD BEACH PARK, OAHU

almost unknown to tourists, this windward shore beach is kept hidden within Bellows Air Force Station and is open to the public only on weekends and holidays. Tall, wispy ironwood trees stand along a dazzling stretch of white sand. Look for Hawaiian shore birds and sand turtles, actually tiny turtle-shaped crabs that swim in the shore break.

KEKAHA BEACH PARK, KAUAI The park claims the eastern end of a 15mile stretch of sandy beach that begins at the eastern edge of the towering Na Pali Coast. Youll like this one for swimming, surng and just watching the sun set behind the islands of Niihau and Lehua. Dont swim when the surf is up, due to powerful rip currents. NAPILI BAY, MAUI

Popular with locals and

Explore sand dunes, sea cliffs, caves, and a raised coral reef along this sparsely
MAHAULEPU BEACH, KAUAI

If youre seeking ne swimming in clear water and a perfectly dazzling smile of a beach, this secluded cove is the place. Yes, there are hotels tucked into the cove, but they are nicely cordoned off by wide green lawns.

Victoria House
A MBERGRIS C AYE

Captain Morgans Resort

Temptation Island packages including oceanfront room, welcome cocktail, R/T air from Belize City, taxes & use of resort equipment. 7 nts - $948 p.p. 4 nts - $593 p.p. Spacious casitas and villas located on beautiful white sand beach. Enjoy snorkeling, diving, kayaking, fishing, or just relax and enjoy the scenery by one of our two fresh water swimming pools. Tel: 888-653-9090 E-mail: belizevacation@yahoo.com Web: www.belizevacation.com

www.victoria-house.com Experience the casual elegance of Victoria House Ambergris Caye, Belize
Tel: 800-247-5159 or 713-344-2340 E-mail: info@victoria-house.com

The Villas at Cocoplum

P LACENCIA
Paradise Redefined! Come live, play and relax at TheVillas at Cocoplum.We offer you an indoor/outdoor lifestyle commencing with a world-class location! 100 exclusive beachfront resort condominiums Located within the Cocoplum resort community just south of Maya Beach Marina access and 500 feet of Caribbean Beach! (888) MY-BELIZE USA & Canada (501) 610-0294 Belize Website: www.TheVillasatCocoplum.com Email: Boris@TheVillasatCocoplum.com

Hamanasi Adventure & Dive Resort S TANN C REEK

Escape to secluded, casual elegance. Unwind in private treehouses, honeymoon suites, and spacious beachfront rooms. Snorkel & dive Belizes unspoiled Southern Barrier Reef and atolls. Explore Mayan pyramids, rainforests and the Jaguar Preserve. Discover the best of Belize on and offshore. Tel: 877-552-3483 E-mail: info@hamanasi.com Web: www.hamanasi.com

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Call 1-800-624-0686 or visit our website: www.travelbelize.org

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ACCESS

the best
Beware of any winter surf sneaking into the bay. Look for public access at Napili Place and Hui Drive.

Kekaha Beach Park, Kauai

Slaughterhouse is what locals call this beach carved into the base of the West Maui Mountains. Honolua Ranch once had facilities on the headlands. Now Slaughterhouse often refers to the winter surf that slams ashore. During summer, Mokuleia is tranquil, sandy and secluded. Snorkelers love it because its a marine conservation district and sh are plentiful.
MOKULEIA BEACH, MAUI

trees are said to have been planted personally by King Kamehameha V.

NANINA BEACH, NIIHAU Swim on Hawaiis forbidden island. The island is privately owned and not open to the public. The only access is a helicopter ight (Niihau Helicopters, 877-441-3500) that lands near Nanina Beach. Nanina is long and wide with good swimming, a protective reef and views of uninhabited Lehua island. Swimming and snorkeling are excellent. A picnic lunch is served in a beach pavilion. PUU PEHE COVE, LANAI On this southeast side of the island, the sea cliffs are red and the exceptionally clear water is a shade of teal, almost green. Swimming and snorkeling are excellent here. Beware of loose rocks from the cliff above. Follow the shoreline northeast from the left side of Hulopoe, the popular resort beach, to nd this hidden cove facing the sea stack called Sweetheart Rock. RITA ARIYOSHI

KIOWEA PARK, MOLOKAI Forget the swimming the bottom is silt. But bring your camera and lug the tripod; the sunsets here are spectacular. The beach is adjacent to the famous Kapuaiwa Coconut Grove. Hundreds of tall graceful niu, the Hawaiian coconut palm, are silhouetted against magenta and deep-purple skies in evening. The

Ever have the urge to swim in champagne? Natural freshwater springs bubble beneath tepid waves, spritzing swimmers with jets of icy water. More reasons to toast Pauoa: wide, white sands and a treasured reef harboring native green sea turtles, endemic reef sh and fascinating coral life. The Fairmont Orchid hotel is near enough for real champagne.
PAUOA BEACH, BIG ISLAND

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PETER FRENCH

ACCESS

I HAVE FOUND A TRANQUIL HAVEN FROM MY CRAZY PUBLIC LIFE: NORTH ISLAND, SEYCHELLES, AFRICA.
to categorize North Island as yet another fantastic, luxurious resort. North Island is, for me, much more it is a personal matter. Not only have I found the tranquility I so desperately need, but I have found a place where I can be myself: bare feet, a sarong and my hair pulled back. It is real, and it is normal those rarest of commodities. The natural beauty, the feeling that you are a part of the scenery rather than an intruder, and nding your roots in nature bring you back down to earth. How could a place so envelop you that it restores your soul, your faith and your understanding that in this busy, violent and chaotic world, serenity is possible? The rst thing I do when I travel the tropics is head straight for the beach. What I come upon just steps from my villa on North Island is an expanse of beach so perfect its almost embarrassing to step upon it. Not so much as a footprint spoils the sand. But thats what beaches are for, so off I go. The sand peeks through my toes and feels like petals. It turns out to be an appetizer for what will be the main course: the bright blue, gentle water. Floating in the Indian Ocean, I am instantly aware of my place in this world. I am tiny. The palms and their dancing shadows, the unspoiled and powdery sand, the crystal-blue expanse they are majestic. Out here in the water in this secret and glorious and remote part of the world, there are no eyes, no judgment, no strapless evening gowns, no cameras or gossip columns just a single bare soul, barely noted on this vast expanse of water. I nd that it often takes a few days to unwind. But not here. The moment the turquoise water envelops me, the shackles of city life loosen. Things that had me

diary of a duchess

It would be an injustice

BY

Sarah Ferguson, THE DUCHE S S OF YORK

worried even on the plane no longer seem important. Mission accomplished. For a moment, I feel ashamed. Or maybe I feel greedy that this perfection is all mine. And then I get over it. I head up from the beach to our villa. My daughter Eugenie and I are staying in one of 10 Robinson-Crusoelooking, thatched-roof villas nestled discreetly in the tree line, looking out onto Anse dest Beach. From the beds and bathtubs to the light xtures and door hinges, everything is crafted from local, natural materials. Seats, bathtubs and tables are wood, stone and glass. They feel different than their counterparts in England or in the States they are cool and calm and soft and comforting. The furniture even smells different: organic, fresh, clean.

F R O M T O P : R I PA N I M AS S I M O / F O T O T E C A 9 X 1 2 ; C O U R T E S Y N O R T H I S L A N D ( 2 )

Of the 11 villas on North Island, 10 of them are hidden within the tree line facing Anse dest Beach. The last is set further back. Guests can relax in the library and near the pool.

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Eugenie is standing on the terrace. Mum, there are no words to describe this, she says. She is transxed by the view and, as I make it to her side, the panorama of the electric sea is almost blinding. Not a single structure or person or even a boat obstructs the Indian Ocean laid out in front of us for a private viewing. Our villa sits a little over 3 feet above the ground, effortlessly catching the tropical breeze. We look at each other and giggle. Night is falling. The candles in the lantern are lit, and the mosquito netting is drawn around the soft, white sheets of our beds. We sit on our deck, and I open a bottle of cold, white wine. Holiday has begun.
THE GRAND SCHEME Wilderness Safaris bought North Island in 1997 as a rehabilitation

afraid they were expecting something a little more interesting or at least a bit more fattening.
WHAT DAY IS IT?

project. The goal was to create a sanctuary where many of the natural habitats under threat of extinction could be reintroduced and could thrive once again. The result is a physical oxymoron: wilderness decadence. Jane of the Jungle meets pure luxury a combination utterly spoiled and ecologically responsible. Every architectural detail has been carefully designed and crafted from local, natural and recycled materials. I am intrigued by the textures and colors patterns and hues and materials I had never seen before. And gorgeous names I had never heard of takamaka, casuarina and banuas trees. The ora and fauna are thriving under their project, as well. I am surprised one afternoon as I meander to the beach for a dip and pass an enormous tortoise. He raises his head, albeit for a moment, as if to nod in the direction I need to go. Upon my return from the beach, I meet the old mans family. We are delighted to learn that we will be sharing our garden with three huge beauties. In an effort to be neighborly, Eugenie and I offer them mashed bananas. They are displeased with our lack of imagination. Im

The days at North Island seem to meld into one another. Over the

course of our stay, Eugenie and I fall into some wonderful habits. We often wake up with an early-morning swim in the ocean. We have a leisurely breakfast and head back to the beach with a book. Then swim, nap, lunch, take a dip in our plunge pool (perhaps a massage), afternoon tea and another swim. Every evening we walk along Grande Anse Beach. The temperature in the early evening is so perfect, I dont feel the air. At the end of the walk we come upon the North Island Sunset Bar, located on the northern end of Grande Anse. It is here that the highlight of our day takes place because, for some reason, in this part of the world the sun sets with ultimate performance, as though every night is its grand nale. And just when you think youve seen Mother Natures best show, the full moon rises to the challenge by showering phantom daylight across the ocean. And that means it is time for snail jumping. Y es, Eugenie and I timed our trip perfectly for snail-mating season. This

translates into the path home being covered in snails chattering so loudly we at rst think coconuts are falling. The game is to make it all the way to our villa without allowing one to crunch underfoot. Once we are home, we sit and listen to the waves, look at the stars and breathe. Then I draw a bath, Eugenie lies in a wicker chair next to me, and we talk. What a wonderful way to spend time and relax with my daughter. By the way, the irony isnt lost on Eugenie and me that we happen to be in one of the most romantic settings in the world. So every day we badger a staff member, Jerry, to summon a boatload of handsome men to sweep us off our feet. That is the one thing North Island promises but never delivers. From time to time, Eugenie and I stray from our cherished rituals. Eugenie has a pedicure and foot massage that forever changes her life. The staff creates a spa within her room, complete with towels, products and a mini bath shop. They open all the windows and go to work on her feet, putting her straight to sleep for two hours. It is an experience that we have been unable to replicate since.
NO RULES

North Island, all rules disappear. Nobody cares how or why or when we conduct our day. For instance, there are no menus, and you can eat wherever you like a single conversation with the chef about your preferences, and the rest simply happens. Almost every day we request to have lunch on Honeymoon Beach. A stretch of sand reached by a short buggie ride through the forest, Honeymoon Beach is guaranteed desertion. You can imagine how annoyed we are when we arrive one day to nd footprints! We soon realize that they are the only evidence of the staff that had been there moments before to arrange our lunch table.

Another thing I notice and relish is that on

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After lunch, Eugenie and I snorkel. Giant stingrays guide us around reefs that teem with sh of every size and shape. (On one of these outings we are able to swim alongside a sea turtle with a most infectious smile.) While I greatly enjoy being part beach bum, part bookworm and part bary, Id be remiss not to mention the abundance of activities that exist on North Island for the active traveler. The islands of the Seychelles form part of the worlds longest coral reef system which means that many of the worlds best scuba-diving sites are around North Island. Many visitors take out sea kayaks or boats to explore surrounding islands, or you can arrange day trips to Mah Island, Silhouette, Praslin, La Digue and other outer islands, including the bird islands, Aride and Cousin. Another great way to be active around North Island is to walk the beaches or climb the granite outcrops that cross the saddle linking the eastern and western plateaus. I dont want to leave North Island. Re-entry into the real world will seem so strange.

evitable,

BACK HOME

and it has now been six months since Eugenie and I were in the Seychelles. Once again I am deeply embedded in overscheduled business and social mania. Eugenie is back in school, preparing for an endless stream of exams. When we left North Island, however, I took a little piece of it with me. I took the knowledge that peace and serenity come from the simple things in life. And it takes only the slightest breeze, a deep breath of fresh air, the taste of ocean water, a chance encounter with an animal in its natural habitat, or perhaps a moment of silence to remind me of what is important and good in this world. North Island is grounding. It is natural, beautiful, serene. Its magical and therapeutic powers are everlasting. That is what makes North Island, Seychelles, a special and personal place to which I have promised myself to return. ^

I faced the in-

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8 trips

Eco-Luxe for Less

CABBAGE KEY INN, FLORIDA 7:00 AM Your fi rst morning in hidden

Florida should be spent doing what real Floridians do to relax: fi shing. Motor your own skiff, arranged by the inn, or hire a local fi shing expert and try to reel in speckled seatrout, redfi sh or silver king in the Gulf of Mexico off the southwest Florida coast. Non-fi shers will get a look at bird life, including egrets and herons. 1:30 PM If you cant catch your own lunch, take it gulf side at Cabbage Key Restaurant, where you should definitely order the shrimp salad. Wash it down with the specialty drink of the house, the Cabbage Key Creeper. (Warning: Dont order two.) This popular old, two-room restaurant has a collection of more than 50,000 autographed dollar bills tacked to the walls. The waiter will even give you a pen and adhesive to add your $1 mark. 7:00 PM At sunset, climb to the top of the nearly 50-foot-tall water tower for a spectacular view of the entire 100-acre Cabbage Key, the surrounding islands and the Gulf. After, sit on the screened porch of your funky 1930s cottage, hidden by live oaks draped with Spanish moss. Did someone order a mint julep? GET THERE Fly to Southwest Florida International Airport in Fort Myers. Drive to the Pineland Marina on Pine Island. From there, water taxi to Cabbage Key. Rates from $99. cabbagekey.com
YOUNG ISLAND RESORT, ST. VINCENT 8:45 AM The island of St. Vincent is so

This page: The swim-up Coconut Bar off Young Island. Opposite: The Scottish baronial mansion on the Isle of Eriska.

close you might be tempted to swim, but stay dry and catch the resorts ferry thatll whisk you the 200 yards to the mainlands southern coast. Spend the morning shopping the local markets in Kingstown or, if natures calling, hike through the rainforest to Trinity Falls, named for its trio of 40-foot cascading waterfalls in northern St. Vincent. 3:00 PM Nap in a hammock strung in a quiet corner of Young Islands private beach or swim out a few yards to the Coconut Bar, a bar that floats in the Caribbean Sea. Sip on a Coconut Delight: rum and coconut water served straight from the coconut. 7:00 PM Sup on grilled mahimahi alfresco under a thatched gazebo. Dont be carb shy; Young Island bakes excellent homemade breads. You can work off dinner by strolling the tropical gardens of the 35-acre island before heading back to your stone cottage (some have plunge pools). GET THERE Fly to Barbados on Delta and then to St. Vincent on Caribbean Star Airlines. Taxi 10 minutes to the neighborhood of Villa. The resorts ferry leaves from the docks there. Rates from $215. youngisland.com

COCO PLUM ISLAND RESORT, BELIZE SUNRISE Let the sun be your alarm clock.

All fi ve of the stilted cabanas on 16-acre Coco Plum Caye face east and thus have front-row seats to the sunrise over the Caribbean Sea. The view comes at a negligible price: its only a few steps to your private veranda, and the sea breeze, backed by the suns rays, will gently will you awake. 11:30 AM After lounging on a private beach on the southern tip of the caye, paddle a resort-provided kayak half a mile through the mangrove-edged lagoon to nearby Man-O-War Caye, a bird sanctuary. Spotting pelicans, brown boobies and frigates is easy, and you may even see a manatee or dolphin. 2:00 PM Since you are only a 10-minute boat ride away from the second-largest barrier reef in the world, youll want to dive or snorkel it. Arrange a spot on the resorts dive boat to the Little Blue Hole. 6:00 PM Head to the thatched-roof dining hut, built by Maya artisans and situated over the water, for baked lobster. What will be on the agenda tomorrow: a jaguar sighting in the Cockscomb Basin Wildlife

Sanctuary or a hand-cranked ferry ride across a river to the ruins of Xunantunich? GET THERE Fly to Belize City on American Airlines; take a Tropic Air fl ight to Dangriga, for your 15-minute transport by boat to the island. Rates from $185 per person per night with a four-night minimum stay, including all meals. cocoplumcay.com
HOTEL LANAI, HAWAII 10:3O AM Since you are staying near

downtown, you browse the Saturday Farmers Market in Dole Park. Maybe you should buy a pineapple, since James Dole built the inn in the 1920s for Doles Hawaiian Pineapple executives. But that guava jam does look really tasty 1:00 PM Catch the shuttle that stops at The Four Seasons Manele Bay, where you can use some of that resorts facilities. Nearby is Hulopoe Bay, where you can learn one of many legends of Hawaii. Off Hulopoe is Puu Pehe, or Sweetheart Rock, on which the warrior Makakehau buried his deceased lover, Pehe, and then leapt from it to his own demise.

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LEFT: LYNN MCKAMEY/COURTESY YOUNG ISLAND; RIGHT: COURTESY ISLE OF ERISKA HOTEL

7:45 PM Dont be surprised by names like

Rajun Cajun Clays Shrimp at Hotel Lanais homey Henry Clays Rotisserie the chef/hotel owner, Henry Clay Richardson, is a New Orleans native. Place your order for Richardsons herb-marinated rotisserie chicken when you make your reservation. It would be nothing short of criminal to skip this house specialty. Retire to your cozy room with its country quilts, hardwood floors and large windows. GET THERE Fly to Oahu, Maui or the Big Island and then to Lanai City on Hawaiian Airlines. Or, from Maui, take the Expeditions ferry from Lahaina Harbor to Lanai. $25 per person each way, go-lanai .com. Resort rates from $125, including breakfast. hotellanai.com
MOTU AITO RESORT, FAKARAVA, TUAMOTU ARCHIPELAGO, TAHITI 3:00 AM The aroma from your steaming

Suspended, your body gently rises and falls with the slight waves near Tetamanu Village. A Napoleon wrasse cruises past, and you breathe out of your snorkel slowly, trying not to startle the fish. Its as if you have the privilege of a private viewing at an aquarium. GET THERE Fly to Papeete on Air Tahiti Nui. Transfer to Fakarava on Air Tahiti. Then ride one and a half hours on Motu Aitos boat. Rates from $160 per person per night with a three-night minimum stay, including all meals and boat transfers. fakarava.org
WOODY ISLAND ECOSTAYS, RECHERCHE ARCHIPELAGO, AUSTRALIA 7:30 AM Take a 30-minute ferry ride from

Esperance to Woody Island. Transfers from $39 per person, each way. Rates from $77, with linen service. woodyisland.com.au
GANGGA ISLAND RESORT, INDONESIA 9:00 AM Sunlight fi lters down, illuminating

cup of coffee has only just started to wake you up, but Manihi, one of the owners of the resort, is set to go lobster hunting. Grab your fl ashlight, follow him onto his boat and hell ferry you to the surrounding reef to watch for red refl ections under the water. If youre lucky, youll have barbecued lobster for breakfast. (Its never too early for lobster.) 7:30 AM Fall back to sleep in your pleasant bungalow made from pandanus, coconut and kahaia wood on a private motu. Yours is decorated with shells, sprouting coconuts, dried coral and fragrant blossoms. Drift off breathing in the scent of the ocean on this Tahitian island. 2:00 PM Go by boat with Manihi to the southern pass of Fakarava for a snorkel.

the mainland to 593-acre Woody Island off the west coast of Australia. Along the way, watch dolphins play in the boats wake. Maybe on the return ride youll spot New Zealand fur seals. 10:30 AM Wildflowers bloom with vigorous abandon during the spring, so take a walk down one of four bushwalking trails that cut across the island. One leads to Skinny Dip Bay on the islands north coast. Stroll down the path, keeping an eye out for kangaroos. 9:00 PM Relax on the private deck of your stilted hut and breathe in eucalyptus; those trees peeling trunks stand so close you can reach out and touch them. The forested accommodations might tend toward basic, but Ecostays is the only lodging on this nature reserve, so your sleep tonight will be undisturbed, leaving you well-rested for a hike down Twiggys Landing on the south coast tomorrow. GET THERE Fly to Esperance, via Perth on Qantas. Take the daily direct ferry from

patches of water in the Bunaken National Marine Park, a diving paradise off northern Sulawesi. The boat ride to get to Bunaken may take 75 minutes from Gangga Island, but it was in this ocean that the prehistoric coelacanth was found in 1997, so the chance however slight to see one of the curmudgeonly fi sh makes up for the longish transfer. 1:30 PM On Gangga, take a walk to one of the two nearby fi shing villages, Gangga Satu or Gangga Dua, and bring a camera because all the children will pose and want you to take pictures. Greet them by saying Selamat siang! (Good afternoon). 8:00 PM When strolling back from dinner, wander through the palms, frangipani trees and gardens that surround each of the 15 beachfront bungalows, styled after the islands traditional, wooden Minahasa dwellings. Sleep well because tomorrow the boat Cristina will take you to nearby Indonesian islands to explore the ecosystems of the Sulawesi Sea. GET THERE Fly to Manado, Sulawesi, via Singapore. The resort provides transportation: fi rst an hour by car and then half an hour by boat. Transfers are $30 per person, each way. Rates from $105 per person, full board. ganggaisland.com
ISLE OF ERISKA HOTEL, SCOTLAND 8:30 AM After awakening in your soft bed

at the Isle of Eriska Hotel, get up and pad over to the fi replace, still softly glowing from the night before. Your room is called Skye, after one of the Hebrides islands. This Scottish baronial mansion, circa 1884, retains its regal airs, and its dark furnishings and high ceilings transport you back to another era. 11:00 AM Borrow a pair of Wellies and traipse around the pond and through the wooded grounds. There have been 56 edible types of mushrooms found growing on Eriska, so you might spot a chef from the estate hunting for these delicacies. 8:15 PM Sit for a magnifi cent seven-course dinner that begins with organic salmon mousseline with courgette, sea bass and fennel essence followed, two courses later, by prime Argyllshire lamb, yam pure, cretan potatoes with a red-wine shallot jus and roasted garlic. After dinner, stop by the bar to see the family of three badgers that visits every night for a treat. GET THERE Fly to Glasgow on Continental from New York, then drive to the Isle of Eriska, which is reached by crossing a wrought-iron bridge north of Oban on the west coast. Rates from $280 per person in the winter, including breakfast, tea and dinner. eriska-hotel.co.uk

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FREE Travel Information

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Moreton (from page 91) headquarters for South Pacic operations, and Moreton was Australias front line of defense against a feared Japanese invasion. There are still pillboxes scattered along the east coast as reminders of those nervous days, and a section of the Moreton map is simply marked Shrapnel. Half an hour later, we burst from the shadows of the Middle Road into the sunlight and charged onto the ocean side of Moreton, where a broad whitesand beach runs unbroken for many miles along the pounding Pacic. No sooner did we jump out of the vehicle than it was obvious we were in a more elemental version of paradise. The sea wind blasted so ercely that Henry could barely stand upright; sand whipped up in clouds, and as soon as we jumped in the surf, we were tossed upside down and spat out like we were clothes in an enormous washing machine. Still, as we lurched back to the car, we had goofy grins on our faces. This was denitely Moreton unbound, raw and cleansing. Even on this wild shore, Moretons benign pockets were not far away. Only ve miles farther north, we hiked along a slippery sand path to nd the Blue Lagoon a sand-oored freshwater lake that operates as a vast natural swimming pool, enclosed by lush bush and skimmed by honeyeaters. We plunged into the Evian-clear waters which, to be honest, were more tea-brown than turquoise, tinted by the surrounding foliage. On the way back, we stopped at one of the semi-permanent beach camps a family of shermen had settled in for the summer and had put out an orange Children Crossing ag by the beach to warn drivers to slow down. A stocky woman named Francesca told us how she had moved to Queensland from Italy 30 years ago. Her hefty husband, an Aussie, came up from the surf with a bucket full of snapper. They ended up giving us two sh, and we prepared them back on the villa barbie, drenched in lemon and washed down with a Barossa Valley white.

after a week on moreton, we had this island life down. We were saltencrusted and sun-bleached after spending most of every day in the ocean. Wed tackled all the island trails without once getting bogged, even surviving some of the narrowest routes where two-way trafc can be nerve-wracking. (One car usually has to back up.) And most importantly, Henry and I had rened our sand-tobogganing skills. Wed taken our boards into the surreal zone known only as The Desert, where dozens of smooth sand peaks sit near the east side of the island, rippled with colored veins of mineral and dotted with solid patches believed to have been where lightning bolts hit during savage summer storms. Island regulars, who were scampering up and down the dunes, provided a few tips on how to keep our dignity intact: #1: Wear goggles. #2: Keep your mouth shut. A former surfer added #3: Wax the bottom of your toboggan. Before long, we were zooming down like slalom champions.

BRING BACK First crafted in 1874 by a Brit named Dunkerley who was living in Hobart, Tasmania, Akubra hats are uniquely Australian. Made from fur felt (a higher quality than wool felt), these hats have become a staple for hearty outdoorsmen and women, worn as protection from the strong Australian sun. The Akubra factory in Kempsey, New South Wales, produces more than a hundred styles. Crocodile Dundee thundered into New York City wearing the Down Under in black. Pick up an Akubra at Brisbanes airport (they start at about $50) or check out akubra.com.au for a list of distributors.

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Keep your momentum up and avoid high tides as you explore Moretons coast.

But one nal challenge remained: Moretons dreaded north coast. Id put the journey off because my map read all too bluntly: CAUTION: TIDAL LAGOONS OFTEN MAKE THIS STRETCH

Regulars on the beach pooh-poohed such warnings. I thought of the Germans and their 4WDs being sucked out to sea but, then again, there was the Moreton mantra: Keep the momentum up. So on a clear afternoon, we set off for one last charge along the beach, ducking inland at the village of Cowan Cowan to ask about the conditions of the route around the north coast. The lady at the grocery store looked at me as if I were crazy. I havent been up to that part of the island for 15 years! she roared. So dont look at me! But since I just stood there confused, she took pity on me and grabbed a sherman by the collar. Ere, this bloke might know. Ratso was a wiry character with a ve-day growth; his three children and a blue heeler dog stared at us from the back of his pickup. After pondering for a minute, he drawled, Our camps up there. I reckon you should follow me. There are a few rivers that are a bit tricky, but you can make it. He added quietly, We better hurry. Why? Is the tide coming in? I asked, but Ratso just shrugged. Yay! Henry said. An adventure! Sam gurgled in his car seat. Ratso roared off at breakneck speed into the most isolated part of the island, and I oored the 4WD in hot

OF BEACH IMPASSABLE.

pursuit. The landscape changed every minute as we detoured across mud ats laced with the holes of yabbies (shrimplike critters) and patrolled by hundreds of wading birds. We crossed a shimmering golden beach known as Yellow Patch and shot past a forest of white trees whose branches rose from the sand like skeletal ngers, then plowed across shallow rivers that sent streams of water shooting up past the windows. Last came a hair-raising obstacle course of sharp driftwood. Suddenly, Ratso pulled up and pointed at a track heading up a giant dune; above, on the islands only piece of rock, we saw a lighthouse with beige and red stripes. There you go, mate, Ratso said. Youre on your own from here. With a wave of thanks, we gunned the car up the sand in low gear, then got out to hike to the Cape Moreton Lighthouse, which had been built in 1857 by a team of convicts. We hiked along the edge of the cliffs. Though only 75 feet in height, the panorama was majestic: On one side stretched the Pacic beach, pounded by violent surf, the horizon dissolving in sea mist while, below us, in the emerald green Honeymoon Bay, a trio of turtles were lazily cruising. It might have been Everest for the sense of triumph we felt, and so we celebrated in classic island style by breaking out the prawn sandwiches and iced Crownies. Ratso, I think, would have approved. ^

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Seychelles (from page 78) birds and Seychelles kestrels, all of which now thrive on Frgate. To Steve, each bird tells him his efforts at returning the island to its natural state have been successful. It helps that rats have been eradicated on the island. That alone makes it a little slice of heaven. But its not just the birds. The island houses a unique giant tenebrionid beetle. Not really exciting for most people. But when bug-nutty entomologists saw it for the rst time, they thought the beetle had been pieced together from other beetles and that a hoax was being played on them. We nd dozens tucked in the branches of various trees on the island. It denitely looks like a bug. As we hike up to Mount Signal, the trail leads through thickets of banyan, cinnamon, breadfruit, ylang-ylang and cashew trees to the wind-sculpted granite peak and incredible views of Grand Anse Beach and The Rock Spa. Looking around its as if were on the only island in the ocean. Lush reefs ring Frgate like a jeweled hoop, and the water glows in shades of pure blue. Those thoughts of Eden ease back into my head. When we hike down to the end of the trail, there is a waiting buggy and a cooler lled with freshly chilled coconuts with straws. It is as if the staff has read our minds, and they have timed the end of our hike perfectly. We jump in the buggy. I drop Steve off by the original plantation house and head to the main house for a lunch of chilled yogurt-and-cucumber soup and

chicken curry with jasmine rice and islandfresh chutney. Id like to linger at my table, which overlooks the ocean and beaches that come laden with superlatives that never quite work when describing such ineffable beauty. The breeze here swirls and wraps around me in cool caresses. But I want to explore. Inspired by the sweep of sand at Anse Bambous, I take my buggy on a slow tour of the islands seven beaches. Frgates private realm includes several beaches that have achieved legend- A bike ride around La Digue reveals one stunning beach after another. But there are only two places in the world where the famous ary status for their coco de mer love nuts are found: Praslin and Curieuse. exquisiteness. For me, beaches are fascinating battlegrounds, Anse Macquereau, I nd coolers with really. A beach sits at the crossroads of a cold water and padded lounge chairs restless ocean and palm trees. The soft for guests intent on the pure bliss of apsweep of sand is never the same from day athy. Here you can call for room service to day; it changes by the hour. Crabs ap- and drinks to be delivered throughout pear and disappear with the tidal shifts the day. Its a lovely indulgence. and, beneath the sands, the secret lives I meet up with Francis, one of Frof predator and prey are lived out unob- gates naturalists, to visit the last beach. served. Here on Frgate, some beaches He takes me to the end of a trail so we become difcult during the southwest can walk to Anse Parc, a small beach on monsoon (off-season), only to return the far western side of the island. The to their normal calm from November trail leads through an old copra plantato April. Green sea turtles ply their an- tion, which is a good place to encounter cient paths and come to lay their eggs a few of the Seychelles giant land toron Frgate on dark nights. And some toises. Youd think these 90-year-old beaches are totally private. If a sign is beasts would be easy to nd. Frgate is here that says Beach Occupied, then one of the relatively few islands in the a lucky couple has secured the place all world where you can encounter these to themselves. The sands of Frgates slow-lived creatures. beaches are like the foam used on a bed Just look for the rocks that move, that molds to your shape, but softer. says Francis. And soon my eyes adjust, And all have perfectly sculpted granite and there are dozens of the ancient adornments and palm trees placed by animals in the grassland under trees, what seems the most meticulous art- alongside the trail and soaking in pools ist for the most perfect appearance of of water, all looking like sculpted boulparadisiacal bliss. At my two favorite ders that sprout legs and shift a few Frgate beaches, Anse Victorin and feet every now and then. Up close,

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even the young, 200-pounders look like theyve been living since the dawn of time. Their faces and skin remind me of Yoda. They hardly look up as we follow the trail to the beach. Before we arrive at the beach, Francis takes me under the canopy of an enormous banyan tree, and there in its shade are the stone walls of what is thought to be the remains of a pirate settlement. Theres a lead-lined conduit and, supposedly, three tombs made of coral. Early explorers spoke of golden doubloons washing up on the beach and a gold cross found near the wall, among other artifacts. We explore along the wall me looking for glints of the gold that some say still remains hidden on this island but our presence has spooked hundreds of brown noddies from their nests in the trees, and pretty soon its as if theyre using us for target practice. They say when a seabird poops on you, its good luck; after that experience, Im so touched with good fortune that I surely must be immortal. I like the birds, says Francis. But lets go see the beach. We continue down to the beach. Above our heads angelic fairy terns hover in the wind, and the shafts of light piercing the clouds make it look as if theyre riding the thermals toward heaven. As we stand admiring the small sweep of pillow-soft sand that denes Anse Parc, Francis relates that this was where a group of French Jacobin terrorists were said to have been exiled in the early 1800s. Theyd apparently been accused of plotting to assassinate Napoleon Bonaparte, which makes

their getting exiled a bit ironic. They were Frgates rst full-time inhabitants, but Im sure their experiences of the island were much less sybaritic. However, the island was for them, most likely, equally exclusive. After the hikes, the nature and the explorations, I turn to the self-gratifying side of Frgate and take the buggy up to The Rock Spa for a treatment that sinks me even further into the expansive world of pleasure and harmony. That night, as I did each and every evening at the resort, I walk down the steps from my villa to the open-air hot tub, strip down and climb in. Not too hot, the water swirls away any remaining vestiges of real life, and the moon, reecting its silver light over the soft waters of the Indian Ocean, carries my elated thoughts across the waters. With the twilight of evening pressing on the day, giant-winged fruit bats pierce the shadows of the coming night. The last of the fairy terns returns from the sea, and the waves on the beach below sigh into the sand. With a nal ourish, the day departs. I wander back up to the villa to dress and dine at Frgate House. Tonight Ill join Frgates amiable and elegant managers, Frits and Jenny Hannenberg, and converse my way through the catch of the day and an exquisite selection of French wines. On the way back to my villa, a feeling ripples through me. I have found Eden. The cabbies voice echoes through my head and the thought of the serpent reminds me that I must return to share the wonder of this corner of the globe with the one I love. ^

BRING BACK Hand-made by Seychellois craftsmen of local woods (pisonia tree or coconut palm) and the ivory-like bill of a swordfish, this wish box comes complete with a ready-made wish: to return to the Seychelles. An amalgam of land and sea, its the perfect reminder of these Edenic isles. Look for these kinds of local crafts in shops in Victoria on the main island of Mah. Or, for a last-minute search, the handmade boxes are available at the airport duty-free from about $50.

Special Advertising Section

ISLAND MARKET

ISLAND MARKET
A complete guide to island accommodations, travel & adventures, and information to help you live the island life.

FEATURED PROPERTY

PREMIER REAL ESTATE

ENJOYTHE PRIVACY AND TRANQUILITYTHAT SETS CUPECOY BEACH Club apart from the hustle and bustle of other St Maarten resorts. Situated on the top of the Cupecoy cliffs these condos offer spectacular views of the Caribbean Sea. All these luxurious units have 2 bedrooms, 3 baths. Each can be rented as -double deluxe rooms, one bedroom suites with private balconies overlooking the ocean or garden and pool, one cannot help but feel on top of the world. Phone & Fax: 599-545-2243 E-mail: cupecoy@sintmaarten.net

RE/MAX ST. MAARTEN/ ST. MARTIN

Your Caribbean Dreams can come truefor a week or twoat your own private villa. For over 20 years, Island Properties has been villa rental specialists on St. Maarten/St. Martin. We are renown for full product knowledge, ensuring the highest quality villas and unsurpassed service for all our guests. We offer everything from a romantic one bedroom cottage to breathtaking beachfront villas. Call the Rental Specialists today. Toll Free: (866) 978-5852 or (599) 543-6160 E-mail: info@islandpropertiesonline.com Website: www.islandpropertiesonline.com

Real Estate

SPECIAL
THIS ISSUE

Make it Official! LIVE the ISLANDS lifestyle. OWN your own home in paradise. It is time to make your favorite Island destination your own by purchasing Real Estate. In this issue we put the spotlight on Villa Operators that Sell as well as Rent. This is your opportunity to own a piece of paradise. Stop dreaming and start living the ISLANDS way Check out our special Real Estate / Rentals sectionand find your own piece of paradise now!

To advertise in Vacation Rentals, please contact Ryan Fridley (407) 571-4712 ryan.fridley@worldpub.net

SALES / RENTALS

ISLAND MARKET

Palm Terrace Villas

LARGE, LUXURY CONDOMINIUMS WITH PRETTY WATER VIEWS in Cruz Bay! Beautifully furnished and conveniently located, these brand new 2, 3 and 4 bedroom units are a block from the Caribbean, and a short walk to our bustling village of Cruz Bay. With only 6 units in a private and intimate setting, Palm Terrace has the location, amenities and value to make your next St. John vacation special! For more information or reservations, call 800-324- 5107/ 800-562-1901 or on St. John 340-779-4647 www.palmterracevillas.com

Calypso Realty St. Thomas U.S. Virgin Islands

Island-style living for a week or a lifetime. Enjoy the privacy and tranquility that sets Cupecoy Beach Club apart from the hustle and bustle of other St Maarten resorts. Situated on the top of the Cupecoy cliffs these condos offer spectacular views of the Caribbean Sea. All these luxurious units have 2 bedrooms, 3 baths. Each can be rented as -double deluxe rooms, one bedroom suites with private balconies overlooking the ocean or garden and pool, one cannot help but feel on top of the world. Phone & Fax: 599-545-2243

RE/MAX Island Properties St. Maarten/St. Martin

Your Caribbean Dreams can come truefor a week or twoat your own private villa. For over 20 years, Island Properties has been villa rental specialists on St. Maarten/St. Martin. We are renown for full product knowledge, ensuring the highest quality villas and unsurpassed service for all our guests. We offer everything from a romantic one bedroom cottage to breathtaking beachfront villas. Call the Rental Specialists todayToll Free: (866) 978-5852 or (599) 543-6160 E-mail: info@islandpropertiesonline.com Website: www.islandpropertiesonline.com

Private Condominiums Cupecoy Beach Club

ENJOY THE PRIVACY AND TRANQUILITY THAT SETS CUPECOY BEACH Club apart from the hustle and bustle of other St Maarten resorts. Situated on the top of the Cupecoy cliffs these condos offer spectacular views of the Caribbean Sea. All these luxurious units have 2 bedrooms, 3 baths. Each can be rented as -double deluxe rooms, one bedroom suites with private balconies overlooking the ocean or garden and pool, one cannot help but feel on top of the world. Phone & Fax: 599-545-2243 E-mail: cupecoy@sintmaarten.net

Beautiful, Tranquil, Uncrowded Culebra

Imagine your Caribbean dream house on this spectacular FIVE ACRE hilltop estate on Culebras exquisite and protected eastern shore. Sweeping ocean views looking out to St. Thomas and St. John. A trail through the forest leads down to a secluded coral beach with good swimming and a perfect place to moor a boat. Driveway and power in place. Approved for two homes. $950,000. Financing available. www.bluehorizonrealty.net 787-742-3298

St. Barth Live Your Dream St. Barth Properties represents over 150 of the finest private villas, a special collection of preferred hotels and offers a full range of concierge services exclusively on the beautiful island of St. Barth. Visit us at www.stbarth.com for details and destination information and to request our FREE full-color portfolio. Contact us at 800.421.3396 or info@stbarth.com - Your journey begins at www.stbarth.com
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ISLAND MARKET

VACATION RENTALS
Amazing Vacations with Wimco Villas
Imaging lounging poolside at your own private villa in an exotic Caribbean island like St Barts, Barbados, St Martin or the Virgin islands. Imagine the privacy, the space, and the glorious surroundings. Wimco Villas manages over 1,200 private villas in the Caribbean, including 160 exclusive villas in St Barts. We have 25 years of experience in providing concierge level services in all of our villas. We will also take care of your air travel, restaurant reservations, rentals cars, babysitters, private chefs and more. Exclusive agent for SIBARTH Villas in St Barts. Call 800-278-6469 or email info@wimco.com Or visit us at www.wimco.com

Catered To St. John, US Virgin Islands

CATERED TO VACATION HOMES OFFER A BIT OF PARADISE for every taste from moderate to luxurious. Our private homes are beautifully furnished and landscaped, all with spectacular deck views and most with swimming pools or spas. Each has a fully equipped kitchen, all linens, TV, VCR, CD, tape deck, gas grill, beach chairs, beach towels and coolers. Join us and be... catered to! Call 1-800-424-6641 or 340-776-6641, Fax 340-693-8191. See our website at www.cateredto.com

Catalina Island Vacation Rentals

NOT JUST AN ISLAND, ANOTHER WORLD! SANTA CATALINA, an island paradise 26 miles off Southern Californias coast, invites romantic getaways and family holidays. Quaint shopping, great restaurants, golfing, snorkeling, diving, hiking, boating, fishing, wildlife eco-tours. Over 100 privately owned, fully equipped vacation homes and condominiums, including oceanfront villas at Hamilton Cove. Free brochures and reservation information: (800) 631-5280 or (310) 510-2276 www.catalinavacations.com

Hideaway Beach Resort

Welcome to Hideaway Beach Resort, an elegant escape combining action and Serenity. Right on the shores of a mile-long stretch of beautiful and secluded white-sand beach, framed by tall palms whistling in the breeze, Hideaway Beach Resort invites you to live the adventure of the tropics in utmost luxury and privacy. Our villas are equipped with all the comforts you deserve, a true home away from home! ( 888) 9909955 or (212) 627-2878. www.hideawaybeachresor t.com 110

Discover the Big Island of Hawaii

VACATION IN A BEAUTIFUL CONDOMINIUM OR PRIVATE HOME in the tropical surroundings of Hawaii. Property Network, Ltd. offers a wide variety of Vacation Rental Properties along the Kona Coast from economy to luxury. Looking to buy real estate? Search listings on-line or call one of our friendly sales staff at (808) 329-9300. Visit us at: www. hawaii-kona.com (View our Live Webcam & Activities Page) Toll Free: 800-358-7977 or Direct: 808-329-7977
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VACATION RENTALS
St. John & Tortola www.caribbeanvilla.com
110 BEAUTIFUL BEACHFRONT & HILLSIDE VILLAS & CONDOS WITH 1-6 bedrooms from $110-$2200/night. Enjoy the best in privacy, comfort & tranquility in many lovely & ultra romantic locations. All with pools, hottub, magnificent views or tennis. Our friendly, attentive island staff meet you at the ferry and serve as your island hosts. Since 1985 Caribbean Villas & Resorts Management P.O. Box 458 St. John, Virgin Islands 00830 1-800-338-0987 (207) 871-1129 www.caribbeanvilla.com

ISLAND MARKET

Caribrep Villas, Antigua - Affordable Luxury

Enjoy ANTIGUA/BARBUDA WHILE STAYING IN PRIVATE, staffed, luxury villas. These homes are located around the Island, near golf and tennis, some on the beach with panoramic ocean views, each with its own special furnishings, amenities and charm. Caribrep has been renting Antiguas best selection of Island Homes since 1982. We offer special event holidays for families, romantic getaways, and adventure. Call Barbara at (268) 463-2070 or Fax 268 560 1824. info@caribrepvillas.com / www.caribrepvillas.com

Waterfront Villas on Bluefields Bay, Jamaica

VACATION IN TROPICAL LUXURY WITH SEAFRONT PRIVACY. Pampered with full service in one of five all-inclusive waterfront homes. Gourmet meals, private pools, four-poster canopy beds, fine furnishings. Beach pavilion, sea kayaks, night-lit tennis, snorkeling. Airport transfers. Safe secure area, no commercialism. Posh weddings/private parties for up to 42 guests. Photo: San Michele, on 1+ seafront acres. www.bluefieldsvillas.com Owners: 202-232-4010; or via E-mail: vacations@bluefieldsvillas.com

Destination St. John

A UNIQUE & EXCLUSIVE SELECTION OF PRIVATE VACATION HOMES on the beautiful island of St. John, U.S.V.I. Private waterfront & hill-side homes ranging from luxurious villas to Caribbean cottages. All offer lush landscaping, private decks and glorious ocean views. Most with pools or hot tubs. Personalized, experienced service from the moment you arrive on St. John. Discount airfare packages available. Call Destination St. John Toll-free: 1-800-562-1901 or (340) 779-4647 www.destinationstjohn.com

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ISLAND MARKET

Jamaica Villas by Linda Smith

Fifty exquisite private villas adorn Linda Smiths remarkable collection in the heart of the Jamaican Riviera. The warmth and service from dedicated staff in each home distinguish the villa vacation. Large or small, each villa comes with its own private pool and staff (chef, butler, housekeeper, gardener and laundress). Nannies, masseuses and drivers available too. Golf and tennis on site or nearby. Intimate honeymoon cottages to breathtaking beachfront villas, a dramatic 18-acre mountaintop estate, and even a magical 18th Century plantation on 2,000 acres renowned for its dreamlike weddings. Wonderful for weddings, honeymoons, anniversaries, special birthdays, offshore meetings and memorable family reunions (children welcome!) Simply the best. www.jamaicavillas.com (301) 229-4300 linda@jamaicavillas.com

VACATION RENTALS

Copyright: Nigel Lord

ICI & LA ST BARTH: Rent the Best Selection of Villas

OVER 15 YEARS OF EXPERIENCE IN VILLA SALES AND RENTAL. We will assist you in choosing your private villa among the best choice of select villas. From beachfront cottages to hillside luxurious villas with pool overlooking the ocean, many of our villas have been featured in decorator magazines. Car rental, boat, Spa & restaurants reservations between other services can also be provided. (011 590) 590 27 78 78, Fax (011 590) 590 27 78 28/(011 590) 590 27 72 72. villas@icietlavillas.com www.icietlavillas.com

Fort Recovery Tortola Villa Beach Resort, BVI

SUPERB 1-4 BDRM BEACHFRONT VILLAS ON BLUE CARIBBEAN W/ COOL breezes magnificent views, patio, living rm, kitchen, bdrm, bath, AC, TV, Maid, Pool & Dock. Package includes: 7 nts Villa, Jeep, Bfast, 3 Dinners each, Boat trip, Massage, Pedicure, Yoga & Tax. Featured Discoverys Ch., Fodors & AAA. Complimentary Wedding Planner. From $1,995 per couple (800) 367-8455 (wait ring) ftrhotel@surfbvi.com www.fortrecovery.com Also located Bequia (Bek-way), St. Vincent & The Grenadines www.bequiabeachvillas.com

Bahamas Luxury Nygard Cay

ROBIN LEACH OF LIFESTYLES OF THE RICH AND FAMOUS calls Nygard Cay the most unusual villa rental in the world. John Greer, CEO of Unusual Villas is exclusively offering the rental of Bahamas Luxury Nygard Cay. New Providencia, Bahamas. Rental of Nygard Cay includes 10 bedrooms, 5 jacuzzis, 2 pools, tennis, 7 boats, staff of 20, 2 Hummers, fishing boat, movie theater, More! $30,000 Per day, 3 day minimum (800) 846-7280, (804) 288-2823, See villa at www.unusualvillarentals.com 112

The Westin St. John Resort & Villas

RELAXING UNDER A PALM TREE HAS REACHED A WHOLE new level Serendipitous days spent sailing, snorkeling and exploring an island that is 2/3 US National Park. Sensuous nights of delicious dining and Heavenly Beds. Surrounded by 47 acres of lush landscaping on a white sand beach. Superb service and gracious amenities provided with personal touches that will surprise and delight. The Westin St. John Resort & Villasthe perfect respite for friends and family. Contact us at (340) 693.8000 or visit westinresortstjohn.com
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VACATION RENTALS

ISLAND MARKET

East Sister Rock Island Marathon, Florida Keys

VIEWS, VIEWS, VIEWS FROM YOUR OWN PRIVATE ISLAND in the Florida Keys. 5,000 sq. ft., 3 bed/2bath home including veranda surrounding the house. Finest snorkeling, diving & fishing at your door step. Surrounded by beautiful coral reef. Completely self-sufficient, pool table, swimming pool, TV w/ satellite. Sleeps 8. Boat for transportation to & from mainland. $4,995-$5,500/wk. Call (305) 446-7377 or (305) 796-8439. E-mail: island2@comcast.net www.floridaisland.com

The Buccaneer
GRACIOUS. ELEGANT. LEGENDARY. FOUNDED IN THE 17TH CENTURY and family-run for generations, St Croixs Buccaneer blends old-world charms with warm hospitality, and the amenities and services expected by todays discerning traveler. Offering luxurious accommodations, golf, tennis, exquisite beaches, fine restaurants, water sports, spa, and fitness center, the resort is situated on a 340-acre self-contained tropical estate. It has garnered numerous Worlds Best awards and is a member of the prestigious Historic Hotels of America. www.thebuccaneer.com reservations@thebuccaneer.com 800-255-3881 340-712-2100

Silent Waters Villa, Montego Bay, Jamaica

EXCLUSIVE PRIVATE LUXURY ESTATE SURROUNDED BY a bounty of tropical flora overlooking Montego Bay. Indulge in an atmosphere of lush gardens and tranquil ponds, exquisite dcor, fine dining, on-site tennis and helipad, Olympic size pool, nearby golf and beaches. Suites include A/C, fans, phones, CD/stereo, king or queen beds, private baths. Accommodates 2-20. Spectacular setting for special events! 16 staff/electronic security. (847) 304-4700 (U.S.A.), or www.jamaicavillas.net
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ISLAND MARKET

CARIBBEAN ACCOMMODATIONS Anguilla

VILLA AZURE YOUR DREAM REALIZED! -

Belize
THE LODGE AT CHAA CREEK, Belizes Award Winning Jungle Lodge - Features Exotic

New Mediterranean 5-Star Villa with every amenity overlooking Amazing Shoal Bay Beach. Over 8,000, infinity pool, spa, sunsets, 360 views, private! It was built just for you. www.azurevilla.com 262-376-2247

Tree-top Suites, Elegant Candlelight Dining, Exciting Tropical Adventures and a Rejuvenating Rainforest Spa. E-mail: reservations@chaacreek.com Website: www.chaacreek.com
A BEACHFRONT VACATION VILLA -

INCLUDES BOAT & CAPTAIN to Fish & Snorkel Ambergris Caye. Explore the Reef & Jungle! 888-280-7013 www.PlayaBlanca.biz

Mexico
2-Bedroom Condos, Pool, Restaurant, Bar Located on North Beach, 3 Blocks to downtown www.nautibeach.com
ISLA MUJERES CONDOMINIUMS NAUTIBEACH

British Virgin Islands

******BVI, TORTOLA -

Beautiful villa, pool, private, panoramic views. Walk to romantic beach. Experience paradise. (772) 692-1064.

St. Barthelemy
FRENCH CARIBBEAN INTERNATIONAL -

Antigua
ANTIGUA UN-SPOILED - Small, Simple, Special!

www.longbayhotel.com Telephone (268) 463-2005.

Bahamas
ABACO, BAHAMAS OUR SPECIALTY -

12 charming beachfront cottages on almost uninhabited COOPER ISLAND. Remote, casual, informal. Restaurant, wonderful snorkeling, & SCUBA. $105-$195 double. (413) 863-3162, (800) 542-4624; www.cooper-island.com
BVI BVI, VIRGIN GORDA - Elegant, secluded, affordable 1-6-bedroom beachfront and hillside villas/cottages at Mahoe Bay and Leverick Bay. Fully equipped, pools, tennis, water activities. VG Villa Rentals, Box 63, Virgin Gorda, BVI, (284) 495-7421, USA (800) 848-7081, Canada (800) 463-9396, E-mail: leverick @surfbvi.com Web: www.VirginGordaBVI.com TORTOLA, VIRGIN GORDA, ANEGADA & LITTLE THATCH VILLAS - wide selection!

The leading resource for private villas & lodging. (800) 322-2223. www.frenchcaribbean.com
ST. BARTHELEMY LIVE YOUR DREAM! -

Browse the finest villas and hotels at www.stbarth. com Contact The Experts! Free Dream Portfolio. St. Barth Properties, (800) 421-3396, (508) 5287727; E-mail: info@stbarth.com

70 Tranquil Hideaways. (800) 633-9197. www. AbacoVacations.com

ABACO DOLPHIN BEACH RESORT -

St. Lucia
BEAUTIFUL ST. LUCIA -

Intimate Out-Island hideaway, Fodors Choice 2005 /06. Unique beachfront cottages, rooms, pool, new Blue Water Grill. Swim to reef, on-site Scuba, tennis. Honeymoon or family escapes. 1-800-2222646; 242-365-5137 www.dolphinbeachresort.com Idyllic cottage on unique Man- O-War Cay. Beach front/back, affordable! (317) 849-5308.
ABACO HIDEAWAY ABACO, HOPE TOWN TURTLE HILL VILLAS - Accessible, Affordable luxury. (800) 339-

Private Villas with pools. Spectacular views! www.stonefieldvillas.com (758) 459-7037

St. Maarten/St. Martin

FRENCH CARIBBEAN INTERNATIONAL -

McLaughlin Anderson, 1-800-537-6246, Virtual tours + calendars at www.mclaughlinanderson.com.

LUXURY CONDOMINIUM RESORT - on beautiful Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands. Fitness center, tennis, spa, pool, caf, WiFi, A/C. www.olde yardvillage.com, (284) 495-5544.

The leading resource for private villas & lodging (800) 322-2223 . www.frenchcaribbean.com
DAFFODIL VILLA -

BEACHFRONT Only three weeks left in Mar/April 07 www.bestcaribbeanvilla.com (239) 593-7357

2124, (242) 366-0557. www.turtlehill.com

BAHAMAS, ELEUTHERA, KOKOMO -

ST. MAARTEN/MARTIN -

on a secluded pink sand beach. Large, 3-bedroom, airconditioned home completely equipped. Great Snorkeling! Kayaks! $2,195/week. (800) 454-2299 or (239) 732-5112, www.kokomo1.com

Cayman Islands
Seven Mile Beach, Grand Cayman. 1,2,3&4 BR fully-equipped condos. Resorts and smaller sized properties available. 800-9991338 www.cicondos.com
CAYMAN CONDOS CAYMAN VILLAS -

Fabulous Oceanfront Villas; Beachfront Cottages, Apartments, Hotels. (800) 338-4552, (718) 464-0769, www.villalady.com Breathtaking panoramic view. Private pool and Jacuzzi. For 2-4 guests. (888) 8444149, www.vistaroyale.com

VISTAROYALE -

Over 100 BEACHFRONT condos/private houses on Grand Cayman and Little Cayman, 1-6 bedrooms, economy-deluxe. (800) 235-5888, (345) 945-4144, reservations@caymanvillas.com, www.caymanvillas.com

St. Vincent & The Grenadines

8 spacious, breezy apartments near Friendship Beach. (784) 457-3148, sugarappleinn.com
BEQUIA SUGARAPPLE INN -

Jamaica
JAMAICA ASSOCIATION OF VILLAS -Over

Tobago
TOBAGO -

Barbados
BEACHFRONT LUXURY VILLA - Exclusive west coast, 3 spacious airconditioned bedrooms, 3 baths, pool, complete with gourmet cook, housekeeper, sat TV. High-speed internet. www.emerald beachbarbados.com or 1-800-565-2599

300 private Villas, Condos, Cottages Islandwide. Negril Montego Bay Ocho Rios, Port Antonio. Visit: www.villasinjamaica.com 1-800-845-5276
JAMAICAN TREASURES VILLAS LARGEST COLLECTION OF OVER 300 VILLAS IN JAMAICA - Luxury mansions.

Spectacular 4-bedroom private villa. Stunning views. Pool, cook, housekeeper. Golf. (203) 221-1969. www.fortyoungvilla.com Bed/Breakfast. Carnival! Tropical adventures, diving, bird-watching. 24 years experience. (800) 525-6896, www.pancaribetours.com

TRINIDAD * TOBAGO - Villas, Cottages, Hotels,

Honeymoon cottages. Spectacular Weddings. Fully staffed villas. www.jamaicantreasures.com Toll Free: 1-877-446-7188. Tel: 305-767-2282.

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ISLAND MARKET

Turks & Caicos

ABSOLUTE VIEW VILLA: PROVIDENCIALES BEACHFRONT PRIVACY! - 3 Bedrooms w/ AC,

ATTRACTIVE BEACHFRONT HOME - Moloaa Bay, 3 bedrooms, $1,050/ week. (800) 331-7626, www.kauaibeachhome.com irvdumm@yahoo.com KAUAI - 2-Bedroom cedar home. Waterfalls, Rainbows. $165 nightly. (808) 822-5131, www. makaleha.com KAUAI -

pool, sandy beach, ADSL, Kayaks, honeymoon/watersport packages. Ph: 649-232-1143 WWW. ABSOLUTEVILLA.COM paola@absolutevilla.info

U.S. Virgin Islands

ANCHORAGE VILLA -

On Cowpet Bay, St. Thomas. 2 BR/ 2 BA. Tennis, pool, restaurant, sandy beach. Days:914-739-6293, Evenings: 914739-5086 www.anchoragebeachvillas.com

Hanalei Beachfront Cottages, Homes, Condominiums. Hanalei Vacations, Brochure (800) 487-9833 or www.800hawaii.com

MAUI
#1 AFFORDABLE LUXURY HAWAII VILLAS - charming cottages, condos on the beach with

A BETTER CHOICE RENT DIRECT - St. Croix, St. John villas. Check availability, book online, personalized villa choice assistance. Rentavilladirect.com BLUE VILLA VISTA - New 4 Bedroom Villa with Breathtaking Panoramic Ocean Views. Heated Pool/ Spa, Greatroom, Bar, Flatscreen TV, Exercise Room www.bluevistavilla.com LUXURIOUS PRIVATE VILLAS AND ESTATES - with pools. Free color catalog, info,

pools. (800) 711-6284, (808) 877-7984, www. hawaiibound.com

*********ANDREAS MAUI CONDOS - Contact

FLORIDA ACCOMMODATIONS
CAPTIVA / SANIBEL -

Unique 1- 8 Bedroom Cottages Condominiums Homes Estates. Cottages-to-Castles.com (800) 472-5385

Mauis Mother & Daughter Team. We really do care. Luxury Condos. Home Rentals. Mid range High end. Mauicondos.com 800.289.1522
ALLNEW WAILEA BEACH VILLAS ON WAILEA BEACH! - Exquisite and breathtakingly

virtual tours + calendars at www.mclaughlinanderson.com. McLaughlin Anderson 1-800-537-6246 or fax 340-777-4737; excellent service!
ST. JOHN PALLADIOS VIEW -

HAWAII ACCOMMODATIONS
5 6 STAR EXTRAORDINARY LUXURY VACATION ESTATES - DIRECT SOURCE!

3 bedrooms, pool, spa. (610) 544-8283, www.palladiosview.com Luxurious Seaside Villas, Cowpet Bay, 2-4 bedrooms. Fantastic Location. Pat (800) 788-4VIP, www.viprentals.com

Visit www.TropicalVillaVacations.com. The best villas in Hawaii. Licensed Real Estate Broker and Travel Agency. Phone 888-875-2818 ext. 206.

beautiful 2 and 3 bedroom ultra-luxurious villas exclusive to Tropical Villa Vacations. Private elevators, plunge pools. 2-3,000 square feet. www.Luxury WaileaBeachVillas.com Phone 888-875-2818 ext. 206
BEACHFRONT MAUI - Quality vacation resort rental condos and homes. Free brochure: (800) 8224409. Virtual tour: www.RQMaui.com HANA, HAMOA BEACH OCEANFRONT -

ST. THOMAS -

Big Island
KONA COAST -

Condominium & Homes, Property Network, Ltd. (800) 358-7977, www. hawaii-kona.com

Spectacular views, $225+ nightly. (808) 248-7558 www.hanaoceanfrontcottages.com

*KIHEI WAILEA - Oceanfront condo endless beach. (415) 255-8989, http://members.aol.com/ condo4maui MILES OF SANDY BEACH - Luxury condos. Maalaea Bay Realty and Rentals, LLC. www.maalaeabay.com, (800) 367-6084

MAUNA LANI POINT OCEANVIEW CONDO - 1 bedroom, 15th (overwater) tee. (808) 881-1008 MAUNA LANI -

spacious, luxurious 3 & 2 bedroom golf course townhouses. Golf/resort privileges. (415) 789-9623, www.HawaiiG4.com

Kauai
A LAKEFRONT ESTATE KAUAI - Secluded, 3

Oahu
BEACHFRONT HOMES NORTH AND SOUTH SHORE - 2-8 BEDROOMS. $175-$750/

acres, private beach. Boat, swim, fish, golf. New luxury home. (310) 379-7842, www.kauaihoney moon.com
AAAH RELAX IN STYLE - Upscale Houses/ Condos on Kauais Preferred Northshore. Best Prices, Best Rentals, Best Service. (888) 873-2786 or www.SeaSunTicket.com AFFORDABLE TO ELEGANT -

NIGHT. (800) 442-6901 www.hawaii-beachhomes. com

NORTH SHORE -

Affordable 1-3 bedroom condos. Golf. Tennis. Beaches. Estates at Turtle Bay (888) 200-4202, www.turtlebay-rentals.com

vacation homes/ condos. Na Pali Properties, (800) 715-7273, www. napaliprop.com

PANAMA ACCOMMODATIONS
Beautiful house on Pacific Ocean. Very Secluded. Pool, maid, cook. $125/day. (713) 522-1484 www.panama-vacations.com
PANAMA, CENTRAL AMERICA -

ANINI BEACH COTTAGES - Idyllic Hawaiian Hideaways. (800) 323-4450, (808) 828-0068, www.aloha.net/~cottage ANINIALOHA.COM - Beachfront Homes. Tropical Hideaways, Luxury Estates. (800) 2465382, (808) 828-0067

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G U E S S W H AT S N E X T

Les Belles les In the rousing of early morning, these tiny islets might actually fall in the shadow of
the lower of their two largest parent islands, which splay out like buttery wings. The islets oat in an oceanic reserve named for a gentleman who was content only in or on the sea and is known as le commandant (en franais ). For this shot, photographer Justin Lewis strained against his seat belt, trying to get a composition that didnt include the planes wing. We took off the passenger-side door and attached a small wind guard that allowed me to lean out of the plane with shelter from the wind. But to get here, you need not y. Instead, day-trip by boat, ready to dive or snorkel, for the islets themselves arent as important as what surrounds them. Sponges and sea fans dot their coral reefs, and angelsh, trumpet sh, turtles, grouper and tuna populate their waters. Lewis captured this aerial image with a shutter speed of 1/640 of a second at f/5.6 on a Canon 5D with a 70-200 mm lens, using a polarizing lter.

If you can guess the name of these islets and the reserve that surrounds them, shot by photographer Justin Lewis for the March 2007 issue, send your answers to editorial@ islands.com by February 10, 2007. Readers who submit the correct answers will be entered to win an ISLANDS gift. November winner Janice Pisciotta from Granite Bay, California, was randomly selected from among those who correctly guessed the Bermuda archipelago and Castle Island.

ISLANDS (ISSN 0745-7847) is published eight times a year (Jan./Feb., March, April/May, June, July/Aug., Sept./Oct., Nov., Dec.) by World Publications, LLC, P.O. Box 8500, Winter Park, FL 32790; 407-628-4802. Vol. 27, No. 1, Jan/Feb 2007. One year (8 issues) $24 in the U.S. Copyright 2007 by World Publications. All rights reserved. No part of this periodical may be reproduced without the written consent of World Publications, LLC. Periodicals postage paid at Winter Park, FL, and at additional offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to ISLANDS, P.O. Box 420235, Palm Coast, FL 32142-0235. Printed in USA. PUBLICATION MAIL AGREEMENT NUMBER 40018707 CANADA RETURN MAIL: 4960-2 WALKER RD. WINDSOR, ONTARIO N9A 6J3

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