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SOUL OF DUBAI
SOUL OF DUBAI
Who better to guide visitors to Dubai through the layers of the city than its
residents? While Dubais five-star hotels, shopping centres and beaches tend
to dominate the pages of most guidebooks, visitors who are limited to these
destinations would leave with an unsatisfactory glimpse of the city.
If youre looking to get a sense of what its like to live in Dubai, to visit the citys
distinctive corners and explore its nooks and crannies, this unconventional
guidebook will serve as your perfect companion. In its pages you will find
the reflections and recommendations of Emiratis and long-time residents
of the city, who will introduce you to its cultural identity, its distinguishing
characteristics, and its soul.
There is far more to the city and future World Expo 2020 host than recordbreaking skyscrapers and malls. The metropolis, which is home to more than
200 nationalities, has a rich history, celebrated through ongoing heritage
preservation programmes, and it has rapidly evolved into a global arts hub, a
multicultural culinary destination, an eco-friendly landscape, and a trendsetter
in fields as diverse as business, technology and fashion.
Through focus groups and interviews with the people who know Dubai best,
the Dubai Culture and Arts Authority asked the citys residents to tell its story,
highlight its popular facets and share their diverse memories of life within its
friendly borders. What follows is a peoples introduction to Dubai, an invitation
from the citys residents to potential visitors, guiding them towards its cultural
enclaves, historical districts, design boutiques, homegrown eateries, parks
and much more. Put on your walking shoes, grab a bottle of water and follow
this alternative trail through Dubai, thoughtfully laid out by a collective of

people who happily call it home.

First Edition 2014

DUBAI

PALM JUMEIRAH
AL SHINDAGHA HISTORICAL
NEIGHBOURHOOD
BUR DUBAI
KARAMA

JUMEIRAH CENTRE
SATWA
JUMERIAH BEACH

UMM SUQEIM

DOWNTOWN
DUBAI

DEIRA

AL FAHIDI HISTORICAL
NEIGHBOURHOOD

TRADE CENTRE

THE CREEK

DIFC

BUSINESS BAY
DUBAI MARINA

NAD AL SHEBA

AL QOUZ

MEYDAN

RAS AL KHOR
MIRDIF

CONTENTS
10 ZONE A
DUBAI MARINA / PALM JUMEIRAH
UMM SUQEIM / AL QUOZ

54 ZONE D
KHOR DUBAI (DUBAI CREEK) / DEIRA
BUR DUBAI / MIRDIF

22 ZONE B
JUMEIRAH BEACH / BUSINESS BAY
DOWNTOWN DUBAI / BURJ KHALIFA
NAD AL SHEBA / MEYDAN

68 ZONE E
AL SHINDAGHA HISTORICAL
NEIGHBOURHOOD
AL FAHIDI HISTORICAL NEIGHBOURHOOD

40 ZONE C
JUMEIRAH CENTRE / SATWA
TRADE CENTRE/ DIFC / SHEIKH ZAYED ROAD
KARAMA / RAS AL KHOR

82 ZONE F
GREATER DUBAI & THE DESERT

GREATER DUBAI

GET THE MOST FROM YOUR GUIDE

For convenience we have split Dubai into geographical zones A-F. Some overlap
and there is no particular order in which you should visit them. Oldest Dubai
can be found around the Creek in Zones D and E. The desert is in Zone F and
Zone C encompasses both the traditional and modern trading areas of Dubai.
Zone A with the Marina and the Palm show what Dubai is capable of in terms
of restructuring the desert whilst Zone B is a gentle mix of more traditional
residential, open beaches and parks. Each zone has its own personality and
characteristics and we have selected, on the advice of its residents, the very
best of what we believe Dubai has to offer. We do not cover everything, but
we hope that by giving you a taste of each zone we encourage you to explore
further.
Each zone is split into easy-to-use sections Intro & Map; Q&A with Cultural
Expert; Culture, Heritage and Places of Note; Art & Design; Food & Drink; Not
To Be Missed. All quotes included in the book come from residents of Dubai
who know the city inside out. Q&As are with those who have made their mark
in Dubai from a cultural or arts perspective. They know Dubai inside out and
their knowledge, suggestions and opinions make fascinating reading. The Not
To Be Missed Section at the end of each zone lists location and contact details
of places mentioned in each zone. At the end of the guide you will find a section
of walks that you can tear out. If you like shopping, but not malls, take a look at
our list of markets around the city for an altogether different retail experience.
Everything in this guide has been recommended by residents of the city, who
want you to appreciate that by peeling back its glossy exterior you will discover
Dubais roots, its heart and soul.

FOREWORD
This guide has come into fruition to show you a more personal side of Dubai.
I am very happy that people from over 200 different nationalities, that live
and work in Dubai, feel as connected to the city and its roots as I do. We have
tapped into this connectedness to bring to you a guide that will take you on
a journey to where it all began. We hope that through it you will experience
the Dubai that our forefathers built and called home. From the rustic banks
of the Khor to the gleaming infrastructure and skyscrapers, that are a living
manifestation of the dreams, hopes and ambitions of visionary generations;
our fathers, grandfathers and great grandfathers before them.
Within the hustle and bustle of the city lies a layer that is imbued with diverse
cultural nuances, traditions and heritage that we would love for you to see.
Dubais achievements are an inspiration to us all, and we know that those
achievements were possible because of a legacy of foresight and commitment
that our leaders posses. We also know that this legacy has allowed the beautiful
past to pave the way for a wonderful present, and a promise of the future. This
legacy of love and dedication a leadership has for the people on this land is the
essence that brings us all together, through generations and throughout over
diversity. It is an energy that pulsates through the city and its people, a spirit
that lives and breathes in Dubai. We want you to know it too.
I hope you enjoy this journey of discovery as much as we enjoyed presenting
it to you.

Latifa Bint Mohammed Bin Rashid Al Maktoum

Vice Chairman of the Board of Directors
Dubai Culture & Arts Authority

02

03

04

05

06

07

08

09

Zone A

Introduction

DUBAI MARINA / PALM JUMEIRAH

UMM SUQEIM / AL QUOZ

From arty industrial areas to a palm shaped island built out to sea, gentle
residential suburbs to architect-designed living communities, golden
beaches to man-made oases with tropical foliage, this area could not
contain more contrasts if it tried. Some pockets are worth exploring by
foot, the spread of beaches is extensive and art lovers are spoilt for choice.
This zone offers a glimpse into what Dubai was and what it has become.

< TO ABU DHABI

TO SHARJAH >

THE PALM
JUMEIRAH

DUBAI MARINA

AL SUFOUH RD

EMIRATES
HILLS

SHEIK

H ZA
YED R

AL BARSHA
3
JEBEL ALI
RACE
COURSE

JUMEIRAH RD
UMM
JUMEIRAH 3
SUQEIM 1
AL WASL RD

UMM
SUQEIM 3

UMM
SUQEIM 2

UMM
AL SHEIF

AL MANARA

AL QUOZ
INDUSTRIAL
AREA 3

10 AL BARSHA 2

1
JUMEIRAH 2

AL SAFA

AL SAFA 2

AL BARSHA 1

AL QUOZ
INDUSTRIAL
AREA 4

AL MARABEA RD

EMIRATES
HILLS 2

AL QUOZ
INDUSTRIAL
AREA 1
AL QUOZ
INDUSTRIAL
AREA 2

AL KHAIL RD

AL QUOZ 3

AL QUOZ 1
BUSINESS
BAY

AL QUOZ 4

AL QUOZ 2

MEYDAN

MR

AL BARSHA
SOUTH

EI

Umm Suqeim Beach

Kitesurfing Beach
DUBAI
The Courtyard
SPORTS
The jamjar CITY
Alserkal Avenue
Bu Qtair
Kaak ya Kaak
The Farm
Skyview, Burj Al Arab

UQ

1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9

JUMEIRAH
VILLAGE

M
UM

N
IA S
AB HE
AR ANC
R

8
M OH

AMMA
D

BIN ZAY
ED RD

CITY OF
ARABIA

FALCON CITY
OF WONDERS

010

1 Gulf Photo Plus Gallery

2 The Courtyard

011

Zone A

Q&A

Q&A
Abdulmonem Bin Eisa Alserkal
Developer of Alserkal Avenue
and Patron of the Arts

What does Dubai represent to you?

I am very proud to call it my home and to
have been a part of its growth. It is a force of
creation within a very dynamic and positive
climate that allows ideas to foster. This unique
synergy of the city encourages the birth of
interesting concepts across many fields. I am
a strong believer in talent, ideas and pursuing
projects that have never been done before.
This is what Dubai is about. You can pursue
and achieve anything you set your mind
to here.
A

How would you describe Dubais

cultural identity?
Dubai has evolved to become a centre for
arts and culture. From the art galleries that
pioneered the way for Middle Eastern artists,
to initiatives such as Art Dubai, weve attracted
audiences from abroad and have become an
international arts hub. The arts scene here is
developing its own infrastructure. Art brings
people together; it unites the community
and fosters creativity. In Alserkal Avenue, we
house the most dynamic and internationally
acclaimed contemporary art galleries and
various creative spaces that contribute to the
growth and reputation of the arts scene here.
We are expanding with additional spaces for
2014, in order to welcome and engage more
local talent. The arts community of gallerists,
artists, writers and enthusiasts all are a part of
the cultural landscape of the city.
What makes Dubai different?
It is a haven for opportunities and innovation
and has a unique synergy of embracing
tradition while being open to change and
modernity. It has become a global destination,
012

a city of achievements with strong bonds to its

history and a clear vision for its future. Weve
also become a commercial hub for arts and
culture within the region and globally. Last
year, for the first time in the history of the
GCC, two art galleries were accepted into Art
Basel: Green Art Gallery and Gallery Isabelle
van den Eynde, both from Alserkal Avenue.
How can we better promote Dubai as
a city of arts, culture and heritage?
I would emphasise the importance of
continuously supporting art initiatives,
nourishing local talent and providing a
better infrastructure for the art scene to
grow and strengthen.
Where would you take a visitor to show
them the heart of Dubai?
Al Ahmadiya School and Heritage House is
a big part of Dubais history. It was the first
regular school in Dubai founded back in 1912.
The architecture of the building itself is full of
exquisite details and intricate carvings within
the vast courtyard arches. Today, it functions
as a museum and is definitely worth a visit.

ABDULMONEM RECOMMENDS
Caf

Circle Caf at Al Murooj Rotana

Sheikh Zayed Road 971 4 321 1111

Restaurant

Caf Sushi at the Fairmont, Sheikh

Zayed Road 971 4 311 8316

013

Zone A

Culture, Heritage & Places of Note

CULTURE, HERITAGE & PLACES OF NOTE

This area is appreciated for its architectural

evolution the Marina, the Palm, Burj Al Arab,
and the grittiness of the Al Quoz industrial
district contrasting starkly with the manicured
gated communities of Emirates Living. Walk
along the coastline, enjoying the free beaches.
Umm Suqeim Beach, known also as Sunset
Beach, is great for surfing, whilst Kitesurfing
Beach, also called Soapy Beach by those in the
know due to its soapy football courts, is always
a vision of flapping surf kites, particularly on
weekends. Alternatively, if you cant resist its
allure, gawp briefly at the anamoly that is a ski
resort within a desert. It is these marvels that
represent Dubais astonishing capabilities.
Dubai can only be described as a city that is,
as Sukaiyna Gokal, Founder of Garden of Ayden,
puts it, ever changing, ever-evolving, never
stopping, never standing still. It brims with
ambition and has taken risks where others have
stood and watched.

014

1 A gallery in Alserkal Avenue

2 The Farm

015

Zone A

Art & Design

ART & DESIGN

Art-lovers will be spoilt for choice here,

especially between the months of March and
April. In February of 2014, the Dubai Culture
& Arts Authority announced the inaugural
Dubai Art Season, an annual month-long
celebration of international, regional and local
creativity. The season brings together the
citys major cultural happenings, including
renowned art fair Art Dubai, showcase of
local talent the SIKKA Art Fair, the Middle
East Film & Comic Con, and the Arts and
Culture Forum. The initiative promotes a local

trendy gastronomes. Al Quoz is the antithesis of

the chic glossiness often associated with Dubai.
And, with a nod to New Yorks Meatpacking
District, the newly beating pulse of Dubais art
scene has to be Alserkal Avenue.
Less an avenue, in the true sense of the word,
than a gated block of industrial warehouses,
Alserkal Avenue lies at the heart of Al
Quoz. A vibrant arts hub, its buildings have
been converted into galleries, studios and
workspaces. It currently houses 18 such spaces,
but is on track to double in size over the next

Dubai in March hosts globally renowned art fair

Art Dubai at the Madinat Jumeirah

engagement with these various events through

a variety of interactive public projects. For an
altogether different experience at any time
of year we suggest you make a visit to the nofrills Al Quoz Industrial Area, which is fast
developing into Dubais alternative edgy arts
district. There you will find art galleries housed
in concrete industrial spaces, retail outlets
revealing unexpected treasures, experiential
art and design and healthy eateries springing
up amongst the warehouses. Theres even a
weekly organic farmers market for Dubais

year or so. A live music and entertainment

venue, the Fridge, currently completes the mix.
Slightly off the beaten track in TECOM, a few
minutes from the Internet City metro station, is
the lesser known Dubai Moving Image Museum,
the Middle Easts only such institution and one
of the worlds few. Dedicated to documenting
the history of the moving image, it houses the
private collection of businessman and arts
patron Akram Miknas, which includes a variety
of quirky items, from peep boxes to magic
lanterns dating as far back as the 18th Century.

016

1-2 Work space and materials

at The Jam Jar in Al Qouz

017

Zone A

Art & Design

FOOD & DRINK

A stones throw from what has been described

as the worlds most luxurious hotel - Burj Al
Arab - is one of Dubais most modest eateries,
Bu Qtair. Located in a Portakabin, it would be
hard to imagine more of a contrast, but when
it comes to the freshest local fish, this is a
consistent favourite. Choose from the catch of
the day, watch it being grilled and hunker down
with everyone else around a communal table
by the beach. If youre after something a little
more substantial, go for the ultimate Lebanese
sandwich at Kaak ya Kaak. Kaak is Arabic for
cake or, in this case, a savoury bread topped
with sesame seeds; comfort food at its best. For
an altogether more surreal experience, drive
through the desert into an area of landscaped
lakes, waterways and botanical gardens on a
road trip out to The Farm. For sheer novelty
value, this is an enjoyable way to see a little bit
more of Dubai and its surroundings, and to eat
some delicious food too. There is probably no
better reflection of the culinary diversity the city
houses than the Dubai Food Festival, a series of
delectable events and exhibitions inaugurated
in 2014. The nearly month long celebration
involves such favourites as Taste of Dubai in
Dubai Media City three days of mouthwatering
offerings from all over the globe prepared by
some of the citys most beloved chefs.

018

4
1 Bu Qtair Restaurant
2-4 The Farm

019

Zone A

DIRECTORY

Umm Suqeim Beach

At Al Thanya St/Jumeirah
Beach Road interchange take
small road towards the sea.
Be amused by the coachloads
of tourists who stop here for
five minutes, dressed to the
nines, for their photo in front
of Burj Al Arab.

Bu Qtair
Road 4d, near Burj Al Arab,
Jumeirah, open daily 7pm
-midnight

Kitesurfing Beach
Corner of 2d and 35a street,
behind Saga World, Umm
Suqeim 1

Al Quoz Industrial Area:

The Courtyard
www.courtyard-uae.com
between Streets 4b & 6a, Al
Quoz 1
The jamjar
www.thejamjar.dubai.com
Street 17a, Al Quoz 3

Kaak ya Kaak
Al Quoz, Sheikh Zayed Road
971 4 338 0088, open daily
8pm-late
The Farm
Al Barari, Opposite Falcon
City - 971 4 392 5660, open
daily 7.30am 11pm

All of Alserkal Avenue

www.alserkalavenue.com
Street 8, Al Quoz 1

Defining Dubai

020

021

Zone B

Introduction

JUMEIRAH BEACH / BUSINESS BAY / DOWNTOWN DUBAI

BURJ KHALIFA / NAD AL SHEBA / MEYDAN

The term New Dubai resonates in this zone. Its home to the worlds
largest shopping mall and tallest building as well as dancing fountains and
the chic residential area of Downtown. It also houses a charming Old
Town composed of structures inspired by traditional Gulf architecture.
Despite all of the areas recent developments, scrape the surface and you
will find fascinating pockets of history and heritage. That is one of the
joys of Dubai, where the modern and traditional exist in perfect harmony.

< TO ABU DHABI

TO SHARJAH >
POR
T RA

SHID

JUMEIRAH RD

JUMEIRAH
3

UMM
SUQEIM 1

AL MANARA

AL SAFA 2

AL WASL RD

AL SAFA
SHEIKH ZAYED RD

JUMEIRAH
2

13

10

1
DEIRA

AL BADAA
AL WASL

18

JUMEIRAH
1

OL
AL MANKHO

AL SATWA

17

MA

AL KARA

DIFC
AL QUOZ 3

AL QUOZ 1

BUSINESS
BAY

AL

4
OZ

QU

11

16

DOWNTOWN
DUBAI

2
ZAABEEL 1

BUR DUBAI

D HA
OU ET
M
K

AL QUOZ
INDUSTRIAL
AREA 1

12 4

15

14
7

AL K
HA
IL
RD

DUBA
IC
RE
E

1
UMM
SUQEIM 2

MEYDAN
GARHOUD

AL MEYD
AN RD

DUBAI

RA

1 The Chalet
FESTIVAL
CITY
2 Al Koufa
3 Tashkeel Arts Centre
3
RAS AL KHOR4 Bikers Caf
NAD AL SHEBA 1
5 Mamzar Beach
6 Naif Souk
7 Majlis Ghorfatt
Umm Al Sheif
D
RR
8 Jumeirah
MA Archaeological Site
AM
RAS AL KHOR
9 ASafa
L H Park
NAD
D
INDUSTRIAL
NA
10 The Archive
AL SHEBA 2
AREA
11 The Ara Gallery
12 Al Ijaza Cafeteria
13 Al Reef Lebanese Bakery
D RD
AYE
14 Reem
Al
Bawadi
IN Z
DB
15MASamad
Al Iraqi
M Circle Caf at Al Murooj Rotana
A16
NAD
OH
H M 17 Caf Sushi at the Fairmont
AL SHEBA 3
NAD
EIK
SH
18 Mama Tani Caf
AL SHEBA 4
AL

OR

KH

RD

DEIRA

5
AL MAMZAR

SHEIKH ZAYED RD

SHARJAH

022

1 Dubais skyline
2 Downtown Dubai

023

Zone B

Q&A

Q&A
Jill Hoyle
Manager of Tashkeel Arts Centre

What does Dubai represent to you?

Its home. I feel that I belong now and it
provides the opportunity to make a difference.
I feel that there is a positive environment for
innovation and for change.
What is it about Dubai that makes it different?
A very superficial reaction is that it is very
international and very open-minded in its
environment. But more than that it is very
forward-looking.
B

What does the soul of Dubai mean to you?

I think that Dubai is very international but
at the same time it is firmly implanted in the
past. I have worked for a long time with young
Emirati women and it strikes me that they
do an amazing job of holding onto their past,
respecting their traditions and embracing the
future; Dubai seems to be resolving the issue
of not rejecting the past and traditions - it
continues to uphold and respect them, but at
the same time it recognises the fact that you
cant stand still and you have to look forward.
In order to provide successfully for its people,
it has to relate to the international world.
Where do you take your visitors to show them
Dubais cultural identity, its heart and soul?
Id always take them to Al Fahidi, across the
Creek on the abras and into the souk areas.
Three interlinking areas.

for people who visit, as the values we relate

to here arent communicated to visitors and
tourists.
How can visitors get to know the
soul of Dubai?
Its hard to create something that is genuine
without it being a plastic tourist attraction.
The change has been so rapid that maybe
theres a fear of this other community taking
away from the inherent culture, so Emiratis
tend to keep a distance in order to protect
themselves, which doesnt show the natural
Emirati openness and welcoming attitude.

JILL RECOMMENDS
Caf

The Chalet (Lebanese), Jumeirah

Beach Road, just past Al Manara St,
971 4 348 7557

Restaurant

Al Koufa (Arabic), Oud Metha, near

Al Nasr Leisureland, 971 4 335 1511

View

The Dubai skyline, as seen from the

other side of the trees near Tashkeel
Art Centre in Nad Al Sheba 1

How can Dubai be promoted better as

a city of culture and heritage?
Offer the local hospitality that is at the core
of this culture. People will still be interested
in coming if they think they will be getting a
different experience. I think its a bit confusing
024

025

Zone B

Culture, Heritage & Places of Note

CULTURE, HERITAGE & PLACES OF NOTE

Described variously as a city foraged from

tradition and culture, and a city that stands
for the future, but is trying to hold onto its
roots, Zone B offers the two sides of this
coin. Jumeirah, to the northwest, is the oldest
expatriate residential area in Dubai and is
therefore well established. It has developed
around several historical gems, one of which
is Majlis Ghorfatt Umm Al Sheif which was
built in 1955 as the summer residence of the
late Sheikh Rashid bin Saeed al Maktoum,
who ruled the city from 1958 to 1990 and is
considered the father of Dubai. Cooled by the
sea breeze, this building is comfortable even
during the height of summer without modernday air conditioning.
Jumeirah Archaeological Site is one of the
most important sites in the UAE, dating back
to 6AD. Although there is very little to see
now, it is of note because it was once a caravan
station along a trade route linking Iraq to

northern Oman. Artefacts excavated here are

displayed at Dubai Museum and Heritage
Village. Its also definitely worth indulging in
a few happy hours of leisure time by visiting
Safa Park, one of Dubais oldest parks and
an oasis of serenity, despite being flanked
by Sheikh Zayed and Al Wasl Roads. Longtime residents will tell you that park culture
was really big in the 1980s and that families
would spend entire days enjoying picnics, even
during the summer. They remember some
of the trees from their childhood. With 64
acres of beautiful landscaped gardens, it has
something for everyone - walkways, play areas,
a small fairground, cafs, a maze, a mini train, a
lake with boats, bikes for hire, a running track,
sports courts, and barbecue areas. On the first
Saturday of every month, the park hosts a
flea market where people can sell and buy a
range of secondhand items, from household
appliances, to furniture, antiques, clothes and

026

1 Ripe Market in Safa Park

2 Majlis Ghorfatt Umm Al Sheif

027

Zone B

more. In 2013, a Friday organic market was

also launched, offering health concious foodies
everything from fresh produce to homemade
preserves, organic coffee and sweets. Other
popular markets in Dubai include the Farmers
Market on The Terrace, held at Jumeirah
Emirates Towers every Friday during winter
season, and ARTE, a bi-monthly arts and crafts
market that takes place in Festival City and
Times Square Centre.
A reflection of Dubais innovative nature, Burj
Khalifa is an awe-inspiring architectural gem.
Sheikh Zayed Road, which cuts Dubai in half,
was originally a two-lane road traversing the
desert. If you examine the original plans youll
see that there was a large gap left between the
buildings and the road. The buildings were
built far back leaving space for expansion.
Even in the 1980s, there was always the vision
to widen it to three lanes and then six and to
have space for the Metro.

Known as the largest mall in the world, the

site where The Dubai Mall stands today was
once known as Defence Roundabout due to
the nearby Dubai Army Barracks. It presents
a very different picture now. Before you head
there, exit Sheikh Zayed Road onto Meydan
Road (Meydan is home to Dubais horse racing)
and you will come to Nad Al Sheba. Youll feel
like youve entered another more gently paced
universe. A new cycle track has now replaced
the famous camel racetrack. I miss it being here.
The practise pens were on one side of the road,
the racetrack on the other. When it was time
for the camels training, youd have to wait 20
minutes or so for them to cross the road. I used
to notice their blankets they were absolutely
beautiful with different patterns, says Jill
Hoyle, manager of Tashkeel Art Centre. Racing
season now takes place October to March at the
new Al Marmoom Camel Racetrack, further out
of Dubai.

Culture, Heritage & Places of Note

028

1 Safa Park
2 Jumeirah Archeological Site

029

Zone B

Art & Design

ART & DESIGN

There are some incredible new art centres

springing up in Dubai that typify a more holistic
approach to culture and the arts in general,
clearly responding to a need to make them
more accessible to everyone. Safa Park has
seen the very recent addition of The Archive
a contemporary library focusing on Middle
Eastern and North African art, culture, design
and literature. More than that it offers an
exciting, varied programme including indoor
and outdoor activities to promote art, culture
and sport. A modern caf offering delicious

Tashkeel even has an outdoor skate park where

you can practice your tricks

contemporary dishes, a full espresso bar and a

workspace with free wifi have made this venue
extremely popular with Dubais families and
creatives alike.

030

1 The Archive Safa Park

2 Gallery in Tashkeels Art Centre

031

Zone B

Art & Design

Gabriela Maj

Tired of the city? Take a drive to Nad Al Sheba

where Tashkeel Arts Centre will surprise you
with its laid back art-school vibe. Boasting
an extensive studio space which is home to
a stream of visiting artists from the UAE and
abroad, the centre hosts regular exhibitions
and a programme of workshops for artists of
all genres. Theres even an outdoor skate park
where you can practise your tricks.
This zone is set apart by its wide range of
unique shopping outlets.
The boutique
Bambah, for example, is dedicated to all things
vintage, and despite being associated with
international chains, outlets like Sunset Mall
and Dubai Mall actually house a number of local
brands and stores such as Zoo Concept.
Head to Jumeirah to find the independent
boutiques that have been key to the development
of Dubais young fashion scene. S*uce showcases
designs by emerging local creatives and DAS
has a wide range of luxurious abayas. For
unique home ware, O de Rose has an array of
products from across the region and French
owned Comptoir 102, with its carefully selected
collection of interior decorations and jewellery,
as well as a restaurant promising nutritious but
tasty treats, will not disappoint.

Gabriela Maj

032

1 Tashkeel Arts Centre

2 Tashkeel Skate Park

033

Zone B

Q&A

Q&A
Mouza Al Abbar
Entrepreneur

What does Dubai represent to you?

Its my home. I still see it through the eyes
of my grandparents, as a very close-knit
community with our family.
What is it about Dubai that makes it different?
In Dubai you feel the energy. Everythings
running. That sets Dubai apart. You can find
the new and modern here and if you want to
you can also discover the traditional as well.
What does the soul of Dubai mean to you?
Our culture, our people - they are the soul
of Dubai.
How would you describe Dubais
cultural identity?
Lets do the biggest and the best. I think its
a good way to be thinking generally, but in
application its happened very quickly. We
have accepted that we share our city and that
Dubai has reached a state that means many
people want to come and live here, but at the
same time we feel like its happening a bit too
fast. We love our community and the mix of
people here, but equally we want to ensure
that the way everyone lives is in line with our
culture and our traditions.
Where would you take a visitor to best show
Dubais heart and soul?
First to my mums house. Shes from Abu
Dhabi and is very traditional. She will give
visitors the true experience. She makes sure
they have Emirati food, that they experience
the perfumes and answers lots of questions.
I would then take them to Al Fahidi Cultural
District, including Sheikh Mohammed Centre
for Cultural Understanding (SMCCU). If I
034

couldnt take them to Burj Khalifa then wed

go to Al Khor with the abras and dhows.
That would give them a taste of Dubai.
How can Dubai be better promoted
as a city of culture and heritage?
Dubai has culture and heritage but the
message is not being communicated to
visitors. The way the city is marketed would
have to change.
How can people get to know the real Dubai?
One of the things I really enjoy doing is
the SMCCU breakfast. There is an Emirati
speaker, its very casual and you can ask any
questions you want. Its important to have
the chance to meet locals and I recommend
everyone goes there. (SMCCU: www.cultures.
ae Al Fahidi Cultural District)

MOUZA RECOMMENDS
Caf

Bikers Caf on Jumeirah Beach

Road for a good Emirati breakfast
and Klayya in Barsha Mall for a
contemporary take on Emirati food.

Restaurant

Al Raslaan has the best hot Emirati

breads. Al Khawaweej,
past Mushrif Park

Beach

Mamzar Beach great for

a picnic and a walk

035

Zone B

Art & Design

FOOD & DRINK

Amelia Johnson

Al Wasl Road and Jumeirah Beach Road are

home to a multitude of interesting little cafs,
juice bars and restaurants. For a back-to-basics
experience to tantalise the tastebuds, Al Reef
Lebanese Bakerys freshly baked steaming
cheese bread, crammed with a mouth-watering
vegetable mix of tomatoes, onions and olives is
not to be missed. If youve still got room in your
tummy, stock up on the Arabic style doughnuts
and sticky sweets for a naughty but very nice
dessert.
Al Ijaza Cafeteria is a bit of an institution
among Dubais 80s youth, some of whom
did own up to skipping school to go and eat
shawarma there (names omitted to protect

An insider tip at Samad Al Iraqi is to call ahead by a few hours and ask
the chef to prepare Mazgouf, a traditional smoked fish dish

Amelia Johnson

the guilty). It had its 15 minutes of fame when

the hit movie City of Life came out in 2009.
One of the main characters stops by and orders
himself a juice. Its still extremely popular today.
Another similarly popular restaurant is the very
lively Reem Al Bawadi, always packed with
a young Dubai crowd. The food is tasty, with
generous portions. If fish is your thing, Masgouf
Al Iraqi will definitely get your tastebuds going.
Complementary starters precede a wide array
of succulent grilled fish dishes. An insider tip
at Masgouf Al Iraqi is to call ahead by a few
hours and ask the chef to prepare Mazgouf for
you, a traditional Iraqi smoked fish dish. For
traditional Emirati offerings try Mama Tani,
where the menu is almost completely dedicated
to khameer, a signature local sweet bread.

036

1 Mama Tani
2 A traditional khameer

037

Zone B

DIRECTORY

Al Ijaza Cafeteria
www.alijaza.com Jumeirah
Beach Road, Jumeirah 2,
open daily 9am-3am

Majlis Ghorfatt
Umm Al Sheif
17th Street/Jumeirah Beach
Road

Jumeirah
Archaeological
Site
between Jumeirah Beach
Road and Al Wasl Road,
Jumeirah 2
Safa Park
between Al Wasl Road
and Sheikh Zayed Road,
Jumeirah 3

Tashkeel Arts Centre

www.tashkeel.org Nad Al
Sheba 1, near Nad Al Sheba
police station. Open Sat-Thu
10am-10pm

Al Reef Lebanese Bakery

Al Wasl Road, Jumeirah 3,
971 4 394 5200, open daily 24
hours

The Archive
Safa Park, Gate 5, open daily
8am-8pm
Al Marmoom
Camel Racetrack
Dubai-Al Ain E66 Road, Exit
37. Free admission
971 4 832 6526

038

039

Zone C

Introduction

JUMEIRAH CENTRE / SATWA / TRADE CENTRE/

DIFC / SHEIKH ZAYED ROAD / KARAMA / RAS AL KHOR

A fascinating group of areas, Zone C incorporates Old and New Dubai, city
and natural wetlands. Satwa and Karama are predominantly populated by
Dubais Asian community and offer small bustling streets crammed with
open-fronted shops. In direct contrast, Dubai International Financial
Centre (DIFC) behind the iconic Emirates Towers is impressive in its vast
proportions and world class architecture. For a refreshing fix of nature, take
a drive down to Ras Al Khor wildlife sanctuary and watch flamingos have
their breakfast. The evolution of Dubai and its many variances in character
are exemplified perfectly in this small geographical spread.
< TO ABU DHABI

TO SHARJAH >

POR
T RA

SHID

15
JUMEIRAH RD

AL SAFA 2

AL SAFA

20
19

AL WASL RD

AL WASL

10

L RD

D A
OU ETH
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AL KHAI

14

DUBA
IC
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UO

MEYDAN

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GARHOU

24

RAS AL KHOR
WILDLIFE SANCTUARY
DUBAI
FESTIVAL
CITY

NAD AL SHEBA 1

RAS AL KHOR

S
AL
OR

KH
RAS AL KHOR
INDUSTRIAL
AREA
NAD
AL SHEBA 2

RD

Q
Sammach,
AL Lebanese seafood
Flooka
The Index Tower
AL QUOZ 2
Parmar Tailors
Meena Bazaar
Deira Souk
Ravi Pakistani Restaurant
Al Damyati
Abu Al Abbas Restaurant
Calicut Paragon
Special Ostadi
Wild Peeta - Shawarma Kitchen
Saravana Bhavan
Spring Bamboo
Jumeirah Public Beach
The Music Room
City Land
Al Fida
Bookworld, Hudaiba Street
Iranian Hospital
Jumeirah Mosque
SMCCU
Union House & The Flagpole
Ras Al Khor Wildlife Sanctuary
Art Nights @ Gate Village

BUR DUBAI

RA

1
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3

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26

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SHEIKH ZAYED RD

AL QUOZ 3

18

KUWAIT

JUMEIRAH 3

2 23

21

1
JUMEIRAH 1

JUMEIRAH 2

SHEIKH RASH

UMM
SUQEIM 1

THE
LAGOONS

RR

MA

AM

LH

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NA

040

1 DIFC
2 Satwa

041

Zone C

Q&A

Q&A
Zayan Ghandour
Creative Director and Head Buyer at S*uce

What does Dubai represent to you?

My home. Its had a very positive effect on
my life. Ive been able to build a future and a
career that I feel would not have been possible
anywhere else. Its the vibrancy in the city that
moves me.

What is it about Dubai that makes it different?

The pace at which things happen. How people
go about their lives. You can be very sociable
and at the same time very private. But I think
its definitely the energy, the way everyone
works at the same frequency.
What does the soul of Dubai mean to you?
It is the fact that it offers a home to everyone
who moves here. It makes everyone
welcome. Its beautiful to see all the different
nationalities living alongside each other.
Anywhere else in the world the home
nationality dominates, here its about diversity.
How would you describe Dubais cultural
identity?
It offers a secure future, as well as retaining its
history. Go down to Al Fahidi Cultural District
or the Creek, even the mall and observe the
people and take in their culture.
If you were showing a visitor around the city,
where would you take them to show them
Dubais cultural identity, its heart and soul?
Id have to start with Al Fahidi Cultural
District. Its the first place I discovered in the
old part of the city. Its magnificent. When I
found XVA Art Hotel I would go there every
single day, for the vegetarian food and to sit
in the courtyard. Mona Hauser [XVA Owner]
invited me to design one of the rooms in
042

her hotel. Thats been a highlight for me. Al

Fahidi represents Old Dubai and is one of the
most beautiful areas of the city. Then wed
go to Satwa. It definitely has that old, natural
feeling. You see the traders and the movers and
shakers of the commercial scene. Some people
might say Deira is better, but for me its Satwa;
its like an old Bazaar. Then wed go to Safa
Park. Its my favourite place and I spend a lot
of time there with my two daughters.
How can we get to know the soul of Dubai?
You have to walk around. Visit Al Fahidi and
Satwa. Go down to the Creek and into the
tiny shops. Talk to the shopkeepers, hear the
languages being spoken. Capture the soul of
diversity, the vibrancy and energy. Just witness
the projects that are happening. No matter
what is going on in the rest of the world, Dubai
retains positivity and makes things happen.

ZAYAN RECOMMENDEDS
Restaurant

Sammach Lebanese seafood,

Beach Centre Mall, Jumeirah Beach
Road 971 4 349 4140
Flooka seafood, Dubai Marine Beach
Resort & Spa, Jumeirah Beach Road
971 4 346 1111

Tailor

Parmar, Bur Dubai: mens 971 4 353

5648; ladies 971 4 353 8313

043

Zone C

Culture, Heritage & Places of Note

CULTURE, HERITAGE & PLACES OF NOTE

For a slice of real life, head to Satwa, one

of Dubais oldest neighbourhoods, oozing
with personality. The area is celebrated and
criticised in equal measures. Al Satwa Road,
where it all starts, is a green, leafy residential
avenue that morphs into a busy, bustling souk.
Carpenters workshops sit adjacent to car
mechanics, electrical stores neighbour beauty
salons and florist shops and car accessories
are sold next door to the butchers shop with
a carcass hanging in the window. Narrow,
winding streets are crowded with Dubais Asian
community and well-dressed women visiting
the tailors and fabric shops. Hole-in-the-wall
cafs offer surprisingly good food, and the
charm of this district more than makes up for
its raggle-taggle appearance. Wander down 2nd
December Street which used to be nicknamed
Street of Love during the 1980s. Deepaks and
Regal Traders are both safe bets for fabric in
Hudaiba Street also known as Plant Street
because of the extensive range of plant shops.
Turn your fabric into the outfit of your choice
at City Land next door to Regal. Al Fida Trading
is an Aladdins store for every knick-knack
imaginable. For an affordable book try second
hand bookshop Book World. Satwas Post Office
is one of the original government buildings
and if architecture interests you, make a small
detour past the Iranian Hospital, built in the
1970s and notable for its striking blue tiling. You
should have worked up an appetite by now. No
trip to Satwa is complete without a visit to the
legendary Ravi, a Pakistani restaurant serving
incredibly cheap and tasty traditional dishes.
Jumeirah Mosque dominates the square at the

044

top of Jumeirah Beach Road and is a beautiful

piece of architecture as well being the only
mosque in Dubai that non-Muslims are allowed
to enter and tour. Built in the medieval Fatimid
tradition using modern building materials,
it was completed in 1983 and is particularly
lovely at night when it is illuminated. Tours are
organised by Sheikh Mohammed Centre for
Cultural Understanding (SMCCU).
Visible for miles is the Flagpole also at the
top of Jumeirah Beach Road, upon which the
worlds largest UAE flag, first introduced in 1971,
was raised on National Day in 2001 to mark the
30th anniversary of the union of the emirates.
At the base of the flagpole stands Union House,
built in 1965 and of great historical relevance.
On Thursday, December 2nd 1971, the rulers
of Abu Dhabi, Dubai, Sharjah, Ajman, Umm
al-Quwain, Ras Al Khaimah and Fujairah met
inside this house, known then as the guest
palace of the late Sheikh Rashid bin Saeed al
Maktoum, former ruler of Dubai, to sign the
declaration that brought into effect a temporary
constitution and established the independent
state of the UAE.
Head out of the city centre for a breath of
fresh air and an altogether different experience.
One does not immediately think of Dubai as
a bird-lovers paradise, however the UAEs
geographical position makes it a major stop-off
on the migration route between Asia and Africa
and the breathtaking Ras Al Khor Wildlife
Sanctuary, with its mangroves, mudflats and
lagoons, is home to herons, eagles, sandpipers
and more than 1000 pink flamingos.

4
1 Jumeirah Mosque
2 Book World

3 Jumeirah Public Beach

4 Union House

045

Zone C

Art & Design

ART & DESIGN

Zone C also offers an arts area a world away from

rough-around-the-edges Al Quoz. The Gate
Village at the DIFC is sleek, shiny, sophisticated
and polished and home to some really
interesting galleries. With all of them located
within a few metres of each other, visitors are
spoilt for choice. Art Night @Gate Village is
a lively quarterly event that brings together
the galleries and retailers of Gate Village to
combine elements of art, film, fashion, design
and cuisine through a variety of indoor and
outdoor activities. If youre interested in fine art
photography The Empty Quarter is particularly
interesting. It showcases photos from all around
the world. Everything, from documentary to fine
arts and photojournalism, is covered. Cuadro
Fine Art Gallery is a multi-gallery space in the
DIFC and focuses on four key areas painting,
paper, photography and sculpture. It hosts free
lectures, workshops and panel discussions to

accompany its exhibitions. Directly across from

Cuadro is the Farjam Collection, one of the most
impressive privately owned collections in the
world. Its regular programme of exhibitions,
talks and workshops focus on Islamic, preIslamic, contemporary Middle Eastern and
international art. At The Opera Gallery next
door to the Farjam Collection you will not only
find Picassos, Buffets and Dalis in the Black
Room downstairs, but also new artistic talent
from around the world.
For a slightly more modest art experience,
if youre on Jumeirah Beach Road near the
Mosque head across the road to ProArt Gallery,
where youll find an alternative range of works
from street art masters such as Banksy and Mr
Brainwash, plus lithographs from more than 50
artists from 15 countries.

046

1 The Empty Quarter

2 Cuadro Fine Art Gallery

047

Zone C

Q&A

Q&A
Mohamed Parham Al Awadhi
Entrepreneur, Founder of Wild Peeta,
Gourmet Shawarma and Qabeela New Media

What does Dubai represent to you?

My home. Its grown so fast, but I can still
connect with Old Dubai, and at the same time
appreciate tremendously New Dubai. To me,
its a symbol that nothing is impossible. When
people say things take time, I think - look at
what has happened to Dubai in just three
decades. Its insane. Internationally, I think
countries look at Dubai and say how is that
even possible? But it is possible and inspiring.

transporting goods to and from Dubai, from

neighbouring countries through to the Horn
of Africa, Pakistan, and up the Gulf as well, for
over 100 years. This is a great place to gain an
understanding of the context of Dubai.

How would you describe the Soul of Dubai?

Roots, history and memories. If the older
places were demolished or changed, it would
be like erasing the past. Thats why I like to
spend a lot of time in Old Dubai and I visit
New Dubai for different reasons.

How can we get to know the real Dubai?

You have to connect with people like me who
are from Old Dubai, who have been here.
through the transition and are part of new
Dubai as well.

What is it about Dubai that makes it different?

Its spirit. Its understanding. No matter who
you are, where youre from or what your
race is, you can come and settle in Dubai.
I dont think Dubai is perfect; we have our
challenges like anywhere else, but we are
pretty accepting.
How do you show visitors Dubais cultural
identity?
We start with Old Dubai Deira and Bur
Dubai, anywhere as close as possible to the
Creek. If theres a vein coming out of the heart
of Dubai its the Creek. So we would start
in these neighbourhoods, around the Spice
Souks. Walk through the alleys - the history
is beautiful over there. The people who have
shops there have been here for generations.
Then walk just out of that area to the
dhow wharfage. These dhows have been
048

I think if you visit the Creek and Karama as

well as New Dubai youll understand how
Dubai started, and youll understand its people
and where its going.

MOHAMED RECOMMENDS
Restaurant

Al Damyati Egyptian: the best

falafel in town! Kuwait Street Next
to Lulu Supermarket, Karama +971
4 396 5280
Wild Peeta - Shawarma Kitchen
Dubai World Trade Centre Plaza
+971 55 895 7672
Calicut Paragon Keralan: 16th Street,
Karama +971 4 335 8700

Live music

The Music Room Ground Floor,

Majestic Hotel, Mankhool Road,
Bur Dubai

049

Zone C

Art & Design

FOOD & DRINK

The problem isnt finding places to suggest, but

rather figuring out what to leave out. There is no
shortage of authentic, fresh, cheap restaurants
fizzing with atmosphere in this area. As previously
mentioned a trip to Satwa has to include a bite at
Ravi. One of Dubais best Lebanese cafs Al Mallah is
not only popular for its great Middle Eastern food at
budget prices, but because of its location sit outside
on the pavement in 2nd December Street and take in

No trip to Satwa in complete without a visit to the legendary

Ravis, a Pakistani restaurant serving incredibly tasty dishes.

the action as you stave off your hunger with mixed

grills, washed down with refreshing fresh juices. For
those tired of the same old shawarma, Wild Peeta
is definitely worth a try. Founded by two Emirati
brothers who wanted to put a gourmet spin on a
regional classic, the local eaterie takes an all-natural
all fresh approach to its creative wraps. If you fancy
some beetroot ketchup or curry with your shawarma,
pay these brothers a visit.

050

1 Inside Wild Peeta

051

Zone C

DIRECTORY

Ravi
Al Satwa Road, Satwa
971 4 331 5353

City Land
Hudaiba Street/Plant Street,
Satwa, next door Regal

Jumeirah Mosque
Jumeirah Beach Road/17B
Street Interchange, Jumeirah 1

Al Fida Trading
Al Satwa Road, next to Al
Satwa Mosque,
971 04 344 4008

SMCCU
www.cultures.ae

Bookworld
Hudaiba Street, Satwa, 971 4
349 1914
Satwa Post Office
Al Satwa Road
Iranian Hospital
Al Wasl Road/Hudaiba
Street Interchange

Union House
& The Flagpole
Jumeirah Beach Road/
Diyafah Street Interchange
Ras Al Khor
Wildlife Sanctuary
www.wildlife.ae
off Oud Metha Road,
971 4 606 6822

Al Mallah
Diyafah Street, Satwma 971 4
398 4723

Art Night @Gate Village

www.difc.ae/art-nights-atgate-village-2013
The Empty Quarter
www.theemptyquarter.com
Gate Village 2, DIFC
Cuadro Fine Art Gallery
www.cuadroart.com Gate
Village 10, DIFC

Wild Peeta
www.wildpeeta.com Dubai
World Trade Centre Plaza
Al Damyati
Kuwait Street Next to Lulu
Supermarket, Karama, 971 4
396 5280
Abu Al Abbas Restaurant
Al Shumookh Building, St
6A, Karama, 971 4 396 0665

Farjam Collection
www.farjamcollection.org
Gate Village 4, DIFC
Opera Gallery
www.operagallery.com Gate
Village 3, DIFC
ProArt Gallery
www.proartuae.com
Palm Strip Mall
Jumeirah

052

053

Zone D

Introduction

KHOR DUBAI (DUBAI CREEK) / DEIRA / BUR DUBAI / MIRDIF

The oldest part of Dubai, and very much the heart and soul of the city, both
sides of the Creek reveal Dubais true cultural identity. Trade started here,
where merchants settled. Visit Deira, the Creek and Bur Dubai and you will
get a taste of Emirati life as it was long before the UAE was formed or Dubai
became the city it now is. Explore winding, shady streets, haggle in small
shops, enjoy the banter in the souks, and cross the water on an abra. Be
sure to stop for a bite to eat and a much needed drink; you have a plethora
of restaurants and cafs to choose from, embracing cuisine from all over
the Middle East, Africa and Asia. Dont hurry. Watch the world go by and
marvel at what Dubai has achieved in such a short space of time.
< TO ABU DHABI

BIN

DR

SHID

JUMEIRAH RD

AN
AW

MIRDIF

POR
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KH

AD
MM
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AL

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TO SHARJAH >

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AL
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AL SATWA

15

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PARK

AL JAFILIYA

AL MAN

KHOOL

4
RD

ZAYED ST

ARAM

ZAABEEL 1

COR
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AL RIGGA

MUTEENA

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ZAABEEL
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2ND ZA
ABEEL

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SHARJA

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2
3
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Al Ahmadiya School
& Heritage House
Dhow Wharfage
Spice SoukZAABEEL 2
Gold Souk
Covered Souk
Fish Market
Womens Museum
Abra Stations along the wharf
Electronics Market
Mushrif Park
Al Bayt Al Baghdadi Restaurant
Jimma Caf
Karachi Darbar
Habiba Al Nabulsi
Raslaan

BANIYAS RD

AL K

RD

OL
AL MANKHO

ALIFA BIN

13

NAIF

SHEIKH KH

SHEIKH ZAYED RD

HA

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DM

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BUR DUBAI

DUB
AI
CR
EE

AL BADAA

SHEIKH RASHID RD

JR

DUBAI
CREEK
GOLF
CLUB

GARHOUD

DUBAI
INTERNATIONAL
AIRPORT

054

1 Al Ahmadiya School
2 Dubai Creek

4
3 Spice Souk
4 Dubai Creek

055

Zone D

Q&A

Q&A
Dr Rafia Obaid Ghubash
Founder of the Womens Museum,
Gold Souk

What are your early memories of Dubai?

My memories of Shindagha and Deira are that
they used to be the heart of Dubai. With all the
different types of souks it was about trade here.
The local people lived here. My first memory
is my parents beautiful house - the whole area
was full of houses like this. The other memory
is my teacher who taught me the Quran and
the school in this area - Al Ahmadiya School.
The seaside is another important memory. The
fishermen, the boats coming from abroad. My
hobby was bird hunting. We hooked small fish
and caught the birds. Id go home at 5pm with
my birds. The fish market was very important
where men and women gathered but the
women were the ones who fished, not the men.
This area was so active, but now it is only gold
that is sold here. It is called the Souk Al Khail
the horse souk. It didnt sell horses, but most
of the men rode their horses here. This was
before my time in the 1960s. These are my own
personal memories.
Part of my motivation to build the Womens
Museum was to preserve the history of Dubai.
I was born here, grew up here and enjoyed
my life here. I lived in this area and watched
people everything was linked to the sea.
What does Dubai represent to you?
Something I love not a place that I live in.
I have a very good feeling here its open,
welcoming, ready to accept new thoughts
its always been like that. That is old Dubai.
Dubai today is jumping. Not developing,
but jumping. Social and cultural change
happens throughout the world, but in Europe
it took 200 years, here its taken no time. I
am interested in how this rapid change has
056

affected women in particular. But Dubai is

also a story of success. Who would believe
that such a small geographical area would be
known by the whole world. My generation
has a sort of conflict. We like the changes, the
development, but there is a price we have to
pay. We have this dialogue either between
ourselves or with others. The very young
generation, the graduates from college, they
have grown up with a curriculum that has
prepared them for the modern UAE, not the
old. I want them to come and appreciate the
history of their grandparents.
How would you describe Dubais cultural
identity?
From the 1960s to the 80s, although there
were also many other nationalities here, you
still felt the Arab culture around you. Now
it has become cosmopolitan. Emiratis still
know where to find that Arabian feeling, but
its much harder for visitors to find this old
community. It is peaceful here, with a modern
community and also a traditional one. Emiratis
are still retaining their culture and whatever is
related to their heritage and traditions.
Where would you take visitors to show them
the heart of Dubai?
I immediately take my visitors to the Creek.
We take a boat from one side to the other. We
walk through the Gold Souk and the wholesale
market. I also enjoy New Dubai - the walk
around Burj Khalifa. I love to take my visitors
to the desert. We go for a drive to Ras Al
Khaimah or Fujairah.

057

Zone D

Culture, Heritage & Places of Note

CULTURE, HERITAGE & PLACES OF NOTE

058

Zone D is the heart of old Dubai and flowing

through it is The Creek or Al Khor, unanimously
described, by all we have interviewed, as the
life vein of Dubai. Were a city of merchants,
traders, pearl divers. The harbour of Dubai has
associations with Iran and the subcontinent.
The Creek has been tax-free since the time of
Sheikh Maktoum Bin Hasher Al Maktoum, ruler
of Dubai from 1894 to 1906. It was the creek
that started everything off, not oil. Oil expanded
things more rapidly but the Creek started it. The
idea for dredging the Creek was introduced in
1955 by Sheikh Saeed Bin Maktoum Al Maktoum
who ruled Dubai from 1912 until 1958 so
that larger ships could come in and trade could
develop. But before it was first dredged in 1961,
when it was low tide, you could walk down to
Al Ahmadiya school in Deira. If you look at the
architectural style of the buildings, you can
see how the Creek grew organically. This is
where Dubai started. says Yousuf Al Hashimi,
Entrepreneur & Managing Partner, Ahdaaf
Sports Club.
Indeed, the Creek is the pulse of Dubai. It
represents trade, the flow of people in and out,
the hustle and bustle of life from a bygone age.
There is nowhere else in Dubai where you will
experience such an atmosphere, this step back
into the past, the opportunity to truly understand
Dubais soul.
A little history lesson from Al Shindagha:
old Dubai was divided into three main areas:
Shindagha, Bur Dubai, and Deira. Dubai Creek is
the demarcation line separating Bur Dubai from
Deira. Shindagha, on the western bank of the
Creek, is separated from Deira by a sand stretch
called Ghubaiba. It is located at the southern
end of the Creek overlooking its entrance 1 Dubai Creek
2 Heritage House

3 The Fish Market

4 Old Dubai

historically the citys maritime gateway to the

world.
The area started to evolve around 1862 and
quickly acquired historical significance during
the late 19th Century when the citys population
started to increase. At that time urban planning
and constructing new residential areas became
a necessity. Moreover, Dubais ruling family
and most of the Bani Yas tribe used to reside
in Shindagha after H.H. Sheikh Maktoum Bin
Hasher relocated there at the end of the 19th
century.
In recent years the area has been the focus of
a multi-phase renovation project, with many
of the significant historical buildings being
restored to their former glory. The first school
in the city Al Ahmadiya School was established
in 1912 and is next door to Heritage House,
built in 1890. Completed in 1994, the rooms are
traditionally furnished and offer a vital window
into the past.
Wander down the Creek on the Deira side and
marvel at the blue wooden dhows, loaded with
all manner of cargo en route to and from other
countries. The docks are piled high with their
shipments. There are few areas in Dubai that
evoke such a sense of romance and adventure
on the high seas as the dhow wharf, and a trip
here is a necessity if you want to obtain a sense
of Dubais origins. Meandering away from the
Creek, youll come upon the small winding
streets of the old Souk, lined with open and
closed-roof stores.
The Fish Market is a vision of baskets
overflowing with the freshest seafood. In the
height of summer its best to go early in the day.
The Spice Souk sells an array of fragrances and
spices from frankincense to the many herbs
059

Zone D

used in Arabic and South Asian food. Textiles,

incense, rugs and artefacts can be found in
abundance here and the only way to shop is to
haggle over the prices. Since the 1940s, when
traders and entrepreneurs from India and Iran
pitched their stalls in this area, the Gold Souk
has been famed the world over. More than 300
retailers trade here and window upon window
is crammed with bracelets, necklaces, rings,
diamonds, emeralds, rubies, sapphires and
more; a spectacular sight at night when the
windows are illuminated.
A new addition to the Gold Souk is the Womens
Museum. Situated in a beautifully restored old
house, this is a heritage and educational centre
that portrays the role of the women of Dubai who

an Abra from a station across the Creek to Bur

Dubai. Literally translated as Mainland Dubai,
a reference to the traditional separation of the
Bur Dubai area from Deira by the Dubai Creek,
Bur Dubai originally consisted of all districts
between the western bank of the Creek and
Jumeirah.
The Electronics Market hasnt changed since
it was first established nor has its signage, and
if you have the opportunity to visit the area at
night, note the neon boards a throwback to
the neon culture of the 1980s. The pace of life
in Bur Dubai is seemingly unaffected by the
rapid transformations that have taken place
elsewhere in the city.
Bur Dubai contains the beautiful Al Fahidi

Culture, Heritage & Places of Note

The Creek reveals Dubais cultural identity. It is where

trade started and where traders settled.

have significantly contributed to the building of

the nation. Do not be put off by the name, this
important museum will fascinate visitors of both
genders with an interest in social history and the
evolution of the city.
Whilst we have not recommended hotels in
this guide, we cannot ignore the newly opened
Al Ahmadiya Heritage Guest House in the
heart of Al-Ras Heritage area. It is adjacent
to Al Ahmadiya School, Islamic Museum and
Heritage House and a stones throw away from
the Spice and Gold Souks. An impressively
restored traditional mansion, with five spacious
bedrooms overlooking a tranquil, shaded
courtyard and dining area, this boutique
guesthouse offers a taste of hidden Dubai and
the opportunity to step off the beaten track and
experience the richness of Arab hospitality.
Once you have had your fill of Deira, catch

Cultural District, which is written about in

detail in the following chapter.
For a day out of town, head to Mushrif Park,
considered by some to be Dubais best park. Not
only is it the citys largest park at 500 hectares,
but also the oldest. It truly is a desert park, with
long sand plains and desert flora and fauna.
Barbecue areas and 1950s style swimming
pools give it an old world charm. The road
that runs between Nadd Al Hamar Road and Al
Khawaneej Road behind Mushrif Park leading
towards Academic City, is a fantastic location
where Emiratis pitch their impromptu camps
from around November to March. On Thursday
and Friday nights the air is thick with the smell
of barbecues and sand generated by racing quad
bikes. We always take visitors their for a true
taste of Dubai. Jill Hoyle, Manager of Tashkeel
Arts Centre.
2

060

1 Heritage House
2 The Gold Souk

061

Zone D

Art & Design

ART & DESIGN

This is a zone of great historical significance

and contains some interesting traditional
Emirati architecture Heritage House is a great
example of late 19th century design, whilst Bin
Lootah Mosque in front of Al Ahmadiya School
dates from 1910 and the evolution of the Creek.

At low tide you used to be able to walk across

the Creek to Ahmadiya School

Walk through the souks and embrace the chance

to soak up the atmosphere, the fragrances and
the sounds of the oldest trading district in the
emirate whilst experiencing the old world
charm of a Dubai from a former era.

062

063

Zone D

Food & Drink

FOOD & DRINK

Authentic Middle Eastern and Asian cooking

abounds in Deira and the Souks. Considered
by some to be the best juice bar in Dubai, Jaffar
Beman Ali Cafeteria in the Spice Souk has been
in existence for decades, and is particularly
famous for its fresh juices - the lime cooler is
excellent and ice creams. Al Bayt Al Baghdadi
Restaurant is a no-frills eatery amongst many
others, but you will find really good Iraqi homecooking here. All the regular mezze are on offer,
but it is the open-fire grilled dishes that really
make it worth a detour. Portions are generous
and prices are cheap. Full of Ethiopian and
Sudanese customers, Jimma Caf promises
authentic Ethiopian dishes. Ask for advice on
what to eat and enjoy the informal atmosphere
and tasty dishes. For some excellent, very tasty
Pakistani food, Karachi Darbar wont disappoint
especially the chicken or mutton biryani,.
Meanwhile, Habiba Al Nabulsi will impress with
some of the best cheap Arabic food in Dubai. Its
huge trays of piping-hot kunafa - gooey cheese,
honey and pistachio nuts are just whats needed
after a long morning of sightseeing, but more
than this, simple, well cooked traditional dishes
will provide you with an excellent introduction
to local cuisine.

064

1 Al Bayt Al Baghdadi
2 Jaffar Beman Ali Cafeteria

3 Karachi Darbar

065

Zone D

DIRECTORY

Jaffar Beman Ali

Cafeteria
in the Spice Souk
Womens Museum
www.womenmuseumuae.
com Gold Souk
D
Al Ahmadiya School &
Heritage House
Al Khor Street/Al Ahmadiya
Street, Deira/Al Ras Area,
Behind Dubai Public
Libraries
971 4 226 0286
Dhow Wharfage
Baniyas Road, Deira
Souks:
Spice Al Sabkha Street
Gold Between Deira St
and Old Baladiya St
Covered Bet Al Sabkha
Road and Naif Road
Fish Market near
Shindagha Tunnel

066

Al Bayt Al Baghdadi
Restaurant
Al Muteena Street,
near Sheraton Deira,
971 4 273 7064

Ahmedia Heritage Guest

House
ahmediaguesthouse.com
adjacent to Al Ahmadiya
School, Deira, 971 4 225
0085

Jimma Caf
Al Khaleej Road, Deira,
971 4 271 7610

Abra Stations
along the wharf, Deira and
Bur Dubai sides of Creek

Karachi Darbar
Al Musalla Road, Deira,
971 4 272 3755

Electronics Market
Nr Al Mankhool Road,
Bur Dubai

Habiba Al Nabulsi
Muraqqabat Street,
Deira, near Reef Mall
971 4 227 7760

Mushrif Park
Al Khawaneej Road,
Mirdif, 971 4 288 3624
Bin Lootah Mosque
in front of Alahmadiya
School

067

Zone E

Introduction

AL SHINDAGHA HISTORICAL NEIGHBOURHOOD /

AL FAHIDI HISTORICAL NEIGHBOURHOOD

A small geographical area, Zone E in Bur Dubai is packed to the gills with
history, art, culture and beauty. Spend a few hours, a day or even consider a
few nights here to soak up Dubais heritage, architecture and hospitality. Al
Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood has been restored to its former splendour;
narrow streets with traditional courtyard houses and wind towers, museums,
art galleries, boutique hotels and delightful restaurants make this district a
restoration success story, whilst in neighbouring streets, souks and museums
only add to the enjoyment of the visit.

< TO ABU DHABI

TO SHARJAH >

POR
T RA

SHID

JUMEIRAH RD

12

11

20

13
KHA

AL MINA RD

10

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BI
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AL

AL HUDAIBA

AL SABKHA

8
9

T
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21

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SR
YA
NI
BA

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AL MAN
KHOOL
RD

AL
KH
ALE
EJ

COR
N

ICH

AL JAFILIYA

E DE

IRA

CRE E K

NAIF

D U B AI

DUBAI CREEK

17
6
7
LEB
N ABI TA

ALI BI

RD

AL FAHIDI
18
HISTORICAL
NEIGHBOURHOOD

ST

15
5
HIDI ST
OUD
METHA

14 16

19

AL FA

PORT
SAEED

AL RIGGA

1 Arabian Tea House

2 Special Kabab
3 Al Fahidi Historical
Neighbourhood
MUTEENA
4 Sheikh Mohammed Cultural
Centre for Understanding
5 Al Fahidi Fort, Dubai Museum
6 The Rulers Court
7 Grand Mosque
8 Textile Souk
9 Souk Al Kabeer
MURAQQABAT
AL10
Bait Al Wakeel
11 Sheikh Saeed Al Maktoum House
12 The Heritage and Diving Villages
13 Barjeel Heritage Guest House
14 The Orient Guest
15 XVA Hotel
16 Majlis Gallery
17 XVA Art Gallery
DUBAI-S
18 Ave Gallery
HARJA
H RD
19 Local House
20 Kan Zaman
21 Special Ostadi

068

1 Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood

2 XVA Hotel

069

Zone E

Q&A

Q&A
Isobel Abulhoul OBE
Director and Co-founder of Magrudys, Founder of Jerboa Book
Publishers and the Emirates Airline Festival of Literature

What does Dubai represent to you?

Home it always has been. When I stepped
off the plane into the desert night all that time
ago, I was at home from the beginning. I loved
the sultry smell in the air. It was a completely
new experience for me. The people are what
make a place. I received a welcome wherever
I went.
What is it about Dubai that makes it different?
Dubai has always been different. I arrived here
before there were any Emirates, so I knew it
before and after it became the United Arab
Emirates. When we went to Abu Dhabi you
went in convoy as there was no road. You went
to Sharjah, when the tide was out, until a road
was built. Dubai ended where the airport is.
I can remember going camping in the desert
just beyond there you felt like you were in
The Empty Quarter.

How would you describe Dubais cultural

identity?
You know immediately that youre in Dubai
because of the road signs, the way that
everything is organised, the appearance of the
buildings. If you dig deeper its different again.
Dubai is a strange character. Its made up of
almost complete opposites: a 21st century
metropolis but with authentic Arabic roots
that go back a long way and are integral to
Dubai-ans who live here and who are very
keen to preserve them.
Where would you take visitors to find the
heart of Dubai?
Id start with the Creek, the lifeblood
of Dubai. The Creek has been a major
influence in Dubais success as a trading
070

and entrepreneurial post. Take a look at

the dhows today and what is on them; it is
endlessly fascinating. Then visit Almahdiya
school Dubais first school and the Womens
Museum. Dont miss the fish market, the gold
souk and the spice souk. These are not tourist
destinations, they are here because people use
them and need them. As a rule we take all of
our authors out to the desert and make sure
the experience is authentic. Belly dancers are
not authentic. Make sure you ask an Emirati
how it should be.
What does the soul of Dubai mean to you?
Light and dark shadows. Never really getting
to the bottom layer. Theres always a surprise
there that you least expect. Dubais incredible
ability to somehow trailblaze in ways that noone could have thought possible.

ISOBEL RECOMMENDS
Caf

Arabian Tea House Al Fahidi Street,

Al Fahidi Cultural District, tel: +971
353 5071 Open daily 8am-10pm

Restaurant

Special Kabab Mina Road, Satwa,

tel: +971 4 398 4747

SHOP

Gerry Weber Dubai Mall

071

Zone E

Culture, Heritage & Places of Note

CULTURE, HERITAGE & PLACES OF NOTE

072

There is nothing to stop you from strolling

around the streets of Al Fahidi Historical
Neighbourhood at random, to discover it
for yourself, but we would suggest you drop
into Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural
Understanding (SMCCU) first. Based in
an elegantly restored house, SMCCU is
an organisation that focuses on breaking
down barriers between people of different
nationalities and raising awareness about
Emirati culture and traditions, and Islam.
It organises walking tours and breakfasts,
language classes and cultural programmes
and encourages visitors to ask all sorts of
questions. So, either take a guided walking
tour, or wander at your leisure around one
of the oldest residential areas in Dubai. The
original Old City Wall, built in 1800 from
gypsum and coral, is still partially intact. Look
up and youll notice that most houses have
wind towers the traditional means of cooling
buildings before the advent of air conditioning.
Many of the houses have been converted into
small, unusual museums. Amongst them are
Calligraphy House, Philately House, the Coins
Museum and The Architectural Heritage
Department as well as a wealth of galleries,
outlined in the following section on Art and
Design.
Be sure to find Al Fahidi Fort, the oldest
building in Dubai built around 1787, now
housing Dubai Museum. Pass The Rulers
Court, or Diwan, a handsome cream building
with impressive wind towers and the Grand
Mosque with the citys tallest minaret. You may
also notice the countrys only Hindu Temple,
situated between the Grand Mosque and the
Creek. Enter the Textile Souk to experience a
1 The Heritage and
Diving Village
2 Inside Sheikh Saeed House

3 Dubai Museum

riot of colour and textures and walk through

into Souk Al Kabeer or Meena Bazaar which
was established in the early 1900s by the citys
Asian immigrants.
Bait Al Wakeel was built in 1935 by the late
Sheikh Rashid and was a shipping office for
Gray Mackenzie & Company, agents for many
of the shipping lines sailing into Dubai. The
first office building in Dubai, it is a fine example
of early 20th century Arabic architecture,
made of mud and coral, with mangrove poles
imported from East Africa to support the roof.
Now a maritime museum, there is also a very
decent restaurant here from which you can
look out over the water and watch the boats
travelling up and down the Creek.
Another structure of great historical interest
is Sheikh Saeed Al Maktoum House, the
official residence of the grandfather of Dubais
present ruler Sheikh Mohammed Bin Rashid
Al Maktoum, who ruled between 1912 and 1958.
The building dates from 1896 and today houses
a rare collection of historical photographs,
coins, stamps and documents that record
Dubais history. Two minutes away by foot is
The Heritage and Diving Village a living
village with demonstrations of more than 30
traditional handicrafts and a great place to see
traditional Arabic dances from time to time. A
welcome new boutique guesthouse is Barjeel
Heritage Guest House in Al Ghubaiba. Its
refreshing to find delightful hotels springing
up in areas of great cultural significance and
this zone has more than its fair share with the
Orient Guest House, a traditional two storey
villa restored to its former glory, and also XVA
Hotel, a stylish and peaceful boutique hotel
with an award-winning vegetarian restaurant.
073

Zone D

Art & Design

ART & DESIGN

There is a feeling of calm and creativity in the

streets of Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood;
it is peaceful yet imbued with a sense of
productivity. Not only are there artisans at work
in small studios, but galleries full of charm and
charisma have also made their homes here.
Majlis Gallery has been here the longest
since the 1970s in fact. Situated in a beautiful
old house, Majlis is a haven for artists and artlovers. Traveller-painters works are exhibited
alongside sculptures, artefacts, trinkets and
shabby-chic furniture made of limed mango
wood from India. XVA Gallery, attached to the
hotel, showcases contemporary art in exhibition

Al Fahidi Fort, the oldest building in Dubai built around

1787 now houses the Dubai Museum.

rooms around the shaded courtyard caf whilst

Ave Gallery is a new space run by Iranian artist
Fereydoun Ave.
Culture enthusiasts will be happy to hear that
the neighbourhood plays host to the Sikka Art
Fair every year. Established in 2011, the event is
focused on showcasing contemporary artistic
production in the UAE, and includes everything
from film screenings to live music, and artist-led
workshops and talks.
To celebrate the citys rich history, the Dubai
Culture and Arts Authority organised the first
Dubai heritage and Touristic Season in 2014,
introducing around 50 activities during Eid Al
Adha aimed at highlighting and honouring not
only the countrys past, but the traditions and
customs that continue to play a valuable role in
Emirati society.
074

2
1 Majlis Gallery
2 XVA Cafe

075

Zone E

Q&A

Q&A
Hind Mezaina
Blogger at the Culturist and Photographer

What does Dubai represent to you?

Dubai is a cosmopolitan city, and an ever
changing one with big ambitions and big
dreams.
What is it about Dubai that makes it different?
The cosmopolitan factor. A richness to the
population that is not evident in the other
emirates. It is more vibrant, with more ambition
and a can-do attitude that you dont see
anywhere else. It is changing at a rapid pace.
What does the soul of Dubai mean to you?
When I think of the soul of Dubai, I
automatically think of Dubai Creek. That is the
heart and soul of Dubai. Its where the story of
Dubai starts.
How would you describe Dubais cultural
identity?
Trying to find and define what its cultural
identity is is a challenge. Its a city that is
changing so much that I dont think it has a
cultural identity just yet. There are so many
different nationalities here that the identity
depends where you are in the city and the time
of the year. To be honest, Im not sure it has
found its cultural identity yet.

How can we get to know the real Dubai, the

soul of Dubai?
Go to Deira, the Creek and Satwa, the real
downtown Dubai. Oh, and use the public
spaces more.

HIND RECOMMENDS
Caf

Gerards its been around since the

1980s and its great to show visitors
that we have some older places.

Views

Khor Dubai, the Marina by Festival

City, and a boat ride so you can look
inland and see the Dubai skyline
from the sea.

Buildings

Wind towers in Al Fahidi Historical

Neighbourhood and the 1980s
architecture in Deira

SHOP

Kinokuniya in Dubai Mall

Where would you take visitors to show Dubais

cultural identity?
Id take them for a walk along the Creek. It
hasnt really changed at all. Id show them the
dhows, the random cargos. Its a great walk.
Then wed go gallery hopping and end up at Bu
Qtair, for the local fish. Its one of my favourite
places you have the catch of the day on
Jumeirah Beach.

076

077

Zone E

Food & Drink

FOOD & DRINK

Part of Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhoods

charm is its delightful courtyard cafs. Arabian
Tea House is idyllic. It has a leafy courtyard,
as well as eclectic jewellery and art for sale,
but the star of the show is most definitely the
food - wonderfully large bowls of delicious
salads and hot bites too, washed down with
refreshing juices. For sheer entertainment
value drop into Local House for camel burgers
and fried camel milk ice-cream, or enjoy more
traditional Emirati dishes. The food is good,
but the location is stunning at Bait Al Wakeel,
built on stilts over the Creek. If youre visiting
Heritage Village, stop at Kan Zaman by the
Creek and enjoy traditional Arabic mezzes and
dishes. There is a great view from the terrace of
the boats and historic Deira and Bur Dubai. For
a restaurant brimming with character, head for
family-run Special Ostadi, with friendly service,
simple but delicious kebabs and fascinating
decor wherever you look especially the bank
notes from around the world displayed under
the glass table tops.

078

1 Bait Al Wakeel

079

Zone E

DIRECTORY

Arabian Tea House

Al Fahidi Street, Al
Fahidi Historical
Neighbourhood, Bur
Dubai 971 4 353 5071

Textile Souk
Bur Dubai along the Creek
Al Fahidi
Cultural District
Bur Dubai

Sheikh Mohammed
Cultural Centre for
Understanding
(SMCCU)
www.cultures.ae
Al Fahidi Cultural District
Al Fahidi Fort /Dubai
Museum
www.dubaitourism.ae
Al Fahidi Street
The Rulers Court
Al Fahidi Street, Al Souk
Al Kabeer, opposite Dubai
Museum
Grand Mosque
Ali Bin Abi Talib Street

Local House
Al Fahidi Street, Al
Fahidi Historical
Neighbourhood, Bur
Dubai, 971 4 354 0705

Bait Al Wakeel
By Dubai Creek, between
Bur Dubai Abra Station and
Old Souk Abra Station
971 4 353 0530
Sheikh Saeed
AlMaktoum House
Al Shindagha Historial
Neighbourhood
The Heritage
and Diving Villages
Shindagha Rd/Al Khaleej
Road 971 4 393 7151
Barjeel Heritage Guest
House
www.barjeelguesthouse.com
nr Heritage & Diving
Village, Al Shindagha
Historical Neighbourhood
The Orient Guest House
www.orientguesthouse.com
Opp Al Musalla Post Office,
Al Fahidi Street, Bur Dubai

XVA Hotel
www.xvahotel.com
close to Basta Art
Cafe and Local House,
Al Fahidi Historical
Neighbourhood,
Bur Dubai
Majlis Gallery
www.themajlisgallery.com
Al Musalla Roundabout,
Al Fahidi Historical
Neighbourhood,
Bur Dubai

Bait Al Wakeel
Al Fahidi Historical
Neighbourhood Bur
Dubai, 971 4 353 0530
Kan Zaman
Al Shindagha Historical
Neighbourhood Nr
Heritage Village
971 4 393 9913
Special Ostadi
Behind Mussalla Tower
Bur Dubai 971 4 397 1933

XVA Art Gallery

www.xvagallery.com
next to Dubai Creek,
Al Fahidi Historical
Neighbourhood,
Bur Dubai
Ave Gallery
Al Fahidi Historical
Neighbourhood,
Bur Dubai 971 4 353 5383

080

081

Zone F

Introduction

GREATER DUBAI & THE DESERT

A trip to Dubai is incomplete without a trip to the desert. There are a couple
of options available hire a four by four and head out by yourself, if you
know what youre doing, or take an organised trip with a tour operator,
but try to find an authentic one. Belly dancing and shisha are not Emirati
culture. Fossil Rock is the UAEs easiest desert route and is only 20 minutes
outside Dubai, but trips to Hatta, Oman, Mussandam, Dibba, Ras Al
Khaimah or Liwa will all satisfy your desire to explore and play in the sand.

082

1-3 Dubai Desert

083

Zone F

Q&A

Q&A
Muna Harib and Nojoud Bastaki
Buksha Founders

During the research of this book, our cultural

ambassadors unanimously agreed that you can
only discover the real Dubai by meeting Emiratis.
A tour company still in the developmental
stages but happy to advise and point you in the
right direction is offering a distinctly new type
of holiday experience in Dubai - homestays
in the northern emirates. Buksha, founded by
Muna Harib and Nojoud Bastaki, is embracing
the concept of cultural tourism. Combining
their love of travel with their desire to engage
in volunteer work and help people, Harib and
Bastaki developed the Buksha concept to offer
travellers the opportunity to interact with
locals, and to learn about traditional ways.
Describing Buksha as a cultural tour operator,
it is their hope not only to introduce tourists and
expatriate residents to the real culture of Dubai,
but also to find solutions for low-income Emirati
families in rural areas.
084

The idea is that we place those interested

in this experience for a few hours, overnight,
or a few days with a family so that they can
experience a series of cultural interactions,
explains Bastaki. You may go and cook with
the mother of the house, or fish or farm with
the man. It gives people the opportunity to see
the traditional side to rural life that you dont
see much of here anymore. Guests pay and
the money goes partly into the running of our
company, but also to the host family for the
accommodation and services rendered. The aim
is that they earn an extra income from this, and
our goal is to create awareness of Emirati culture.
Arab values are generosity and hospitality. We
want the rest of the world to know this.
The initial pilot project met with great
success, and the two women are now looking at
training more host families and finding ways to
prepare their homes for new visitors.

Where do you take visitors to show them

traditional life in the Emirates?
Masafi, in the mountains. Thats where the
water comes from. There is a man called Ali
Al Mehrezi who lives out there at the Masafi
Waterfalls. His house is incredible - hes been
building it for 30 years and its open to the public
on Fridays. He has animals monkeys, donkeys,
cats and dogs. He built seven waterfalls each
one has something unique about it. He has the
oldest cave in the country on his land and a
mango tree that is 700 or 800 years old. He loves
planting and farming and has all sorts of trees
on his land. He can tell you about the different
rocks and sand that we have in this country.
When we were looking for families for the pilot
phase of the project we were driving around and
saw an open gate and decided to go in. It was
Mehrezis house. He has thousands of photos of
the UAE as it used to be. In his time hes been an
actor, a football referee and worked in the army.
He also had the first pottery factory in the UAE.
We recommend that people go and visit him and
learn from him.

Favourite cafs?
For Emirati food Bikers Caf on Beach Road.
Apparently Sheikh Mohamed goes in on
Saturdays sometimes. Al Fanar in Festival City,
is also great for Emirati food. Wander along the
Creek on HSBC side (Bur Dubai). Walk towards
the water taxis and you arrive at a very narrow
alley where youll find a small restaurant on the
right (Bait Al Wakeel). This is by far the best
restaurant in town, we think. Its as cheap as
chips, with the best view of Dubai and the best
food. Then go through the market and youll
find a little shop called the Golden Boards on
the right at the start of the souk. It was owned
by a local man called Nasser Haji and he filled
the shop with everything hed picked up on his
travels throughout his life.
For the best tea in town, Karak (introduced
to the Gulf from the Indian sub-continent a
strong dark tea mellowed with full fat milk and
warm spices), try Bayat Al Fatayer (Jumeirah
Beach Road on the left after Al Urouba Street,
Jumeirah 1).

Favourite childhood memories?

Nojoud: In the old days a lot of families used to
go camping regularly, everyone did it. Thered
be my family, my aunts family, my grandparents.
Wed put up tents and cook with wood. We used
to go long distances into to the mountains.
When it rained wed all go to the wadis.
085

Zone F

086

Introduction

087

089

Special Thanks To
Abdulmonem Bin Eisa Alserkal
Jill Hoyle
Mouza Al Abbar
Zayan Ghandour
Mohamed Parham Al Awadhi
Dr Rafia Obaid Ghubash
Isobel Abulhoul OBE
Hind Mezaina
Muna Harib
Nojoud Bastaki
Danielle Simpson
And to the hundreds of invited residents
who contributed to this guide by sharing
their own Dubai.

Defining Dubai

092

#MyDubai
The #MyDubai initiative was created by HH
Sheikh Hamdan Bin Mohammed Bin Rashid
Al Maktoum, Crown Prince of Dubai, with a
request for residents and visitors to join him
in sharing photos, videos and stories on social
media and show their experiences of Dubai.
The intention is to celebrate the everyday lives
of the people and communities of the Emirate
and show the city that is beneath the landmarks,
headlines and superlatives. The images and
stories demonstrate residents and visitors
daily life activities, views and experiences, all of
which make up the rich tapestry of this vibrant
and cosmopolitan city.
The contributions will be shared across social
media platforms to create an e-museum
and in other forms of creative media such as
exhibitions and art installations. Launching the
initiative, His Highness Sheikh Hamdan said:
A citys story is created by its people and its
time to join together and show the world how
2.1 million people can create one remarkable
story: together we will create the worlds first
autobiography of a city.
The hashtag #MyDubai can be used on
Instagram, Twitter and Facebook to share
stories, photos, videos, and experiences in the
city. Collectively the contributions are building
a fascinating portrait of life in the Emirate. The
content will be curated across different multimedia to inspire art installations, films, books
and other creative projects, which together will
create the autobiography.