Boat cruise inside Periyar Tiger Reserve
After having successfully river rafted on the Holy Ganges,Indus,
Zanskar, Kali Ganga (Kumaon) and Kinabatangang river (Borneo) and
having had long cruises on the Mekong, Brahmaputra, Ganges, Kaveri,
Godavari and Ganges, I decided to cruise on the river closest to my
ancrstral house. One takes the train to Kottayam and after a pleasant
three hour drive, one reaches the picturesque Periyar Tiger Reserve in
Thekkady on the banks of the Periyar. So near yet so far...
The drive to Thekkady from Kottayam through the ghats offers airplane
views as one's vehicles gently climbs the slopes. Lots of fruit vendors
can be seen selling fresh fruits all long the way. The long and winding
uphill journey through the hills is a delightful experience. As we cross a
multitude of hills, one can sight several more in the distance. Part of
the journey is through dense forests.
The drive to Thekkady from Kottayam through the ghats offers airplane
views as one's vehicles gently climbs the slopes. Lots of fruit vendors
can be seen selling fresh fruits all long the way. The long and winding
uphill journey through the hills is a delightful experience. As we cross a
multitude of hills, one can sight several more in the distance. Part of
the journey is through dense forests.
The Periyar meanders through a multitude of small hills and flows quite
rapidly. However compared to the Himalayan rivers, the rapids are
gentler. Though there is no river rafting at Thekkady, a long boat cruise
along the river is possible. There are several rocky islands in the
middle of the river and the colour of the waters is a deep aqueous
blue. One can sight a few stray macaques and an occasional gibbon
dangling from the treetops. The wild sounds of the rainforest pervade
the morning air. Chirps of sparrows, whines of hornbills, squeaks of the
monkeys, clicking sound of the lizards and hoots of owls.
After the long drive, it is pleasant to rest under the shade of two giant
peepal trees on the banks of the river. The cool river breeze and the
relaxing tune of the endless chirping of birds provides much needed
relief to the weary traveller. There are several small motor boats at the
pier and one chooses a boat to cruise on the river. A few minutes later,
the engine spurts to life and one is gently cruising upstream. These
mechanised boats are fitted with engines and move at ideal cruising
speed. One can enjoy every minute of one's gentle cruise over the
calm waters of the river.
The view from the boat jetty is majestic. One gets a bird's eye view of
the translucent river as it circles the islands.
Half slipping, half crawling, one steps into an open gorge, covered by
tree laden hills on three sides and the waterfall on the opposite end.
The shallow pool created by the water enveloped by the gorge is Tam
Nam. One gets awe struck by the beauteous scene around.
The crystal clear pool, reflecting the golden sunlight and covered with
smooth, shining, round, shining, stones at the bottom. The colour of
the water was azure. Throwing caution to the winds, one enters the icy
cold water of the pool to refresh oneself for the return trek. Meditating
on the rocky shores of this tiny drop of tranquility, encased in an oyster
of peace was a divine experience which touches the inner chords of
one's soul.
One can see two other boats make their way through the river. Also a
few elephants can be seen at the distance. The lush green foliage is a
sharp contrast to the light blue skies. The cobalt blue waters and snowwhite clouds add to the picturesque view. The boat cruise is as
adventurous as river rafting upstream. Several rocky islands have to be
avoided as one moves upstream. After an hour of facing turbulent
waters, one starts cruising at gentle speed.
Along the cruise one stops alongside several river islands enroute, to
watch several river birds, resting under the canopy of trees. One also
enjoys a relaxing bath in the crystal clear waters of this river steeped
in history. As one travels further upstream, one can enjoy the solitude
of being lone with Mother Nature. The hum of the river, the buzz of the
bees, the melodies of winged crooners, the impending sunset and the
changing colours of the sky. The gently rocking boat and the endless
flowing waters puts one into a mild trance all along the cruise! There
are hundreds of trees submerged after the water reservoir was built at
Thekkady and these submerged trees emerge out of the water all
along one's cruise.
The wildlife seen during the boat cruise includes gaur, deer and
elephants. The lush green coloured hills make a great background for
perfect photographs. Several ancient trees are also found around
Thekkady. Most of these trees are gigantic, having stood undisturbed
through centuries. The cruise gives us opportunities to watch wildlife at
close quarters without disturbing the animals, As one nears the shore,
the engines are switched off and one patiently waits for the arrival of
elephants. Walking on the soft grass reminds me of the foot massages
of north-east Thailand I had at Prana Spa at the Shangri-La Hotel in
Kota Kinabalu.
The boat cruise presents an opportunity to photograph several species
of birds, a few of whom are courageous enough to fly alongside the
cruising boat. However, the moving boat, the swirling waters and the
flying birds make it a difficult proposition to photograph.
As the boat inches further, one can see a green island. It is
extremely relaxing to rest on the grass, while listening to the gurgling
sounds of the river. Meditating here was a divine experience. One
forgets one's worries and troubles and remains in the present absorbed
in the sounds and sights of nature. Sitting on the deck of the boat
assures one a steady stream of cool water, slashing against one's face
to refresh you for the long cruise ahead. This is a welcome respite
while cruising in the hot sun. Trekking through the forests is the only
way to explore the interiors of the hills. Special forest permits and
guides are needed for trekking inside Periyar Tiger Reserve. The
benefit of trekking through the jungle is to be able to see wildlife at
close quarters. Returning to one's boat, one prepares for the return
cruise, with the impending crimson sunset, promising a colourful return
journey. On the return trip one sights a lone tusker, besides several
wild boar, gaur and foxes.
How to get there?
The Periyar Tiger Reserve is located 5 km. away from Kumily Town. The
120 km. drive from Kottayam to Kumily should not exceed 3 hours.
By bus:
Visitors traveling by bus have to take the bus from Ernakulam to
Kumily which is approximately 200 km. This journey can take 6 hours.
By air:
The nearest airport to reach Thekkady is at Kochi. Kochi is connected
by direct flights from most Indian cities. Kumily is a 200 km. drive from
Kochi airport which takes approximately 5 hours.
By train:
Kottayam Railway Station is the nearest railhead to reach Thekkady.
From Kottayam town, KSRTC buses ply to Thekkady via Kumily.
All trains going to Thiruvanthapuram via Coimbatore stop at Kottayam.
Where to stay?
Homestays are the only option for tourists who want to visit Thekkady.
A family of four can avail a homestay at Rs. 2000/- per night, exclusive
of food. Breakfast, lunch and dinner which includes traditional Kerala
delicacies like idlis, dosas, injipuli (ginger with tamarind) , rice and
elisseri (pumpkin) can be home delivered from the small eateries at
Palakkad. Avoid all hotels and resorts at Neliampathy as they are
overpriced and offer no value for money. It is better to stay at a
homestay at Kumily and visit Thekkady as a day trip. The Periyar Tiger
Reserve entrance is 5 km. away from Kumily.
Where to eat?
Lots of small restaurants serving Malayalee vegetarian cuisine dot
Palakkad. Freshly steamed vegetables with spices, cooked in coconut
milk, with hot freshly steamed idlis are available at most roadside
dhabas. The food at the high profile hotels is only for the
gastronomically adventurous who like greasy food. Vegans can opt for
fresh tropical fruits including water-melons, papayas, tender coconuts,
pineapples which are available at the local market.
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Murli Menon, is a travel writer, stress management consultant and
author based at Ahmedabad, India. He is the author of "ZeNLPLearning through stories" published by The Written Word Publications,
"ZeNLP-the power to succeed" published by Sage publications and
ZeNLP-the power to relax by New Dawn Press. He can be reached at
ceo@tips4ceos.com
________________________________________________________________________
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Murli Menon
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Phone:079-25600269
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High resolution digital photographs attached with caption.
The following article and photographs are copyrighted and all rights
are reserved. No part of this article or the accompanying photographs
may be reproduced or utilised in any form or by any means electronic
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storage or retrieval system without written permission from the author
by emailing us at ceo@tips4ceos.com
________________________________________________________________________
Courier payments/published magazine author copies to:
Murli Menon
E/503, Borsali Apt;
Khanpur
Ahmedabad-380001
Phone:079-25600269
________________________________________________________________________
High resolution digital photographs attached with caption.
________________________________________________________________________
A picturesque river island inside the Periyar Tiger Reserve
The picture postcard view at Thekkady
Inside the boat
Wild Buffaloes or gaur seen from ones boat
Deer inside Periyar Tiger Reserve
A boat cruising inside Periyar Tiger Reserve
The water stars where the greenery ends
Deer inside the forest
Elephants inside Periyar Tiger Reserve
