Picture Perfect Boracay

10 Aug 2012

Feature Story

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Azure waters, palm-tree fringed white sandy beaches, and ever-so-friendly locals complete the
picture postcard that is Boracay. Ranked among the most beautiful islands in the world, this gem
in the Philippine archipelago is truly a slice of paradise.
Words: Chitra S Photography: Adam Lee

Located approximately 315kms south of Manila and 2kms off the northwest tip of Panay in the
Western Visayas region, Boracay comprises three main barangays (villages) Manoc-Manoc,
Balabag and Yapak. Relatively tiny compared to other Southeast Asian island getaways like
Phuket and Bali, this dog-bone shaped island measures only 7kms in length and is just 1km wide
at its narrowest point. It is believed that the islands name stems from the word borac meaning
cotton in the local Aklan tongue, which alludes to its soft-as-cotton fine sand beaches.
But like all beautiful islands, Boracay has its own romantic legend. My guide, Bobby
Casimero, a native islander or Boracaynon, recounted a tale told to him by his grandmother
when he was just knee-high. According to legend, the island was first inhabited by a couple who
were deeply in love. The husband, Bora and his wife, Acay decided their island home should be
christened Boracay a testament to their everlasting love and, to ensure the memory of their
love would live on long after they had passed. I personally couldnt find any documentation to
verify this legend but the story is an appealing one and besides, Boracay certainly seems tailormade for romance. At every turn, I found myself wishing my other half was with me to share the
glorious beauty of the island. Taking cover from the sun beneath the shade of a palm tree while

Casimero rattled on, I imagined spending a lazy afternoon or two lying with my partner in a
hammock, with just the sound of waves lapping against the shore for company.

Feast on fresh seafood like these steamed mud crabs that are served at beachside restaurants
on White Beach

Beachy keen
Decades ago, before word of the islands beauty became widespread, White Beach on the
western side of Boracay was a backpackers haven, and a place to chill out and watch the world
go by. It may be hard to keep development at bay, especially now that tourists are flocking to
Boracay in droves, but the island still retains a laidback vibe that cannot be replicated, at least
not in this part of the world.
White Beach is split into three main zones named after disused boat stations that used to
serve particular stretches of the beach. Station 1 is home to boutique hotels and fi ve-star
properties while Station 2 offers mid-range accommodation. Station 3 offers lodgings that are
easy on the pocket and is the preferred choice of backpackers and shoestring travellers. All three
areas front the same gorgeous beach so, it really doesnt matter where you are based and,
considering the entire length of White Beach stretches only about 4kms, it is possible to walk
from one end to the other. Motorised vehicles arent allowed onto the sandy pedestrian pathway,
which is the strip of land between hotels, restaurants and shops, and the rest of the beach.

Quench your thirst with fresh coconut water in the middle of the sea

From sunrise to sunset, White Beach is the islands vibrant hub. During the day,
colourful paraw (sailboats) and bangka (pump boats) line up at the shoreline ready to ferry
passengers to outlying islets. Tourists and locals pass time with games of beach soccer or
volleyball, and little kids walk around with baskets of trinkets for sale. The scene, however,
changes as the sun sets, when makeshift stalls hawking everything from instant tattoos to
designer sunglasses take over the beach. Having hawkers cajole you into buying a fourth pair of
sunglasses may not be everyones cup of tea but bargaining on the beach for trinkets and I
LOVE BORACAY T-shirts is part of the islands charm. And once the sale is closed, reward
yourself as I did, with an ice-cold bottle of San Miguel from one of the many beach-side bars.
Sitting on a deckchair, on the beach and under the stars on my first night on the island, I was
coaxed into a lazy stupor by a combination of, I believe, San Miguels, the evening breeze, and
strains of reggae wafting from a band performing on the beach. As the night wore on, I traipsed
the entire stretch of Stations 2 and 3, and was promptly entertained by even more musicians
performing under makeshift tents, and firedancers that could sober anyone up with their daring
routines. The easy-like-Sunday morning feeling is what makes White Beach and Boracay a
much-loved and favoured destination. Boracaynons like Casimero, however, prefer Puka Beach
in the northern end of the island. Named for the cone-shaped shells of a sea snail found on its
shores, Puka is a much quieter stretch of beach. There are other beaches along the island as
well, like Diniwid on the West and the secluded Ilig-Iligan in the East. If you are keen on exploring
different beaches on the island, do your homework first or enlist the assistance of a local guide.

DMall is the largest shopping area in Boracay

The waters off Boracay Island are rich with marine life such as this pretty starfish.

Crystal clear

Waking up bright and early on Day 2 of my Boracay jaunt, I boarded a bangka from Bulabog
Beach to Crystal Cove Island Resort (www.crystalcoveisland.com), a private island dotted with
man-made sculptures of no particular theme. There was a voluptuous nude woman, various
animals, and life-sized figures reminiscent of Easter Island statues. Curiosities aside, it is the
islands beautiful coves and aviary that attract boatloads of tourists daily. I was told the island
gets its name from crystal rock formations that are found on it, but unfortunately, I never did
come across any. The exact location of the crystals is a well-kept secret; only the owners know
where it is, said Casimero of the hidden gems. Luckily for me and other visitors, the islands
natural coves were the bigger draw.
It took me about 30 minutes to trek from one end of the island to the other, in order to explore
the coves. Navigating my way carefully down a steep stone staircase, I entered the first cove,
which was ideal for snorkelling. The second cove further along the island took a little more work
though. Crawling on my hands and knees through a narrow tunnel, I was rewarded with stunning
sea views. The island also offers a birds eye view of the surroundings, which includes Boracay
and other nearby islands and islets. After exploring the coves, I got back onto the bangka and
headed out to the open sea for more snorkelling. Boats plying the Boracay-Crystal Cove route
often stop along a reef near Crocodile Island (so named for its snout-like appearance), allowing
passengers to explore the rich marine life there. Feeling a little tired, I decided against diving,
and watched as my more adventurous fellow passengers took the plunge. Joining them was my
experienced boatman who dived straight into the water sans equipment to bring me a starfish,
seahorses and pretty shells, which were promptly returned to the water after a very brief showand-tell session.

The entrance to Crystal Cove Island

Swimming in the clear waters of Crystal Cove Island

The afternoon heat was taking its toll on me when Casimero tapped my shoulder and
enquired if I wanted an ice-cream. With neither a cooler nor fridge in sight, I thought the sun had
gotten to his head, until I spied a couple of canoes racing towards our boat.
As the boatmen paddled closer, I could see that one was laden with coconuts while the other
had a little cooler box packed to the brim with ice-cream cones. Needless to say, everyone
devoured the ice-cream and had their fill of coconut water right there in the middle of the sea!

Fire dancer thrills the crowd with his daring routine on White Beach

Bye bye Boracay

Just as I was settling into the island way of life, and much too fast for my liking, Day 3 rolled
around and it was time to leave beautiful Boracay. That morning, I awoke to a puddle of water in
my room courtesy of a leaky roof and a tropical storm. The dismal weather echoed the way I felt
about leaving Boracay behind. I packed my bags with a heavy heart, but as the sun finally broke
through the dark clouds, lifting my spirits, I told myself I would one day return to Boracay the
island of everlasting love.

Bangkas moored by the beach at Boracay

Journey to Boracay
Though the island is sometimes described as far-flung, it is easy to get to Boracay with AirAsia.
My flight from Clark to Kalibo in the Aklan province took just about an hour. From Kalibo, which is
the gateway to Boracay and home to one of the largest festivals in the Philippines the AtiAtihan, I hopped on a bus to Caticlan. The journey through the rolling hills of Aklan province took
me past little towns and villages, paddy fields dotted with carabaos, and along a scenic coastal
road to the port at Caticlan. From there, it was just a short 10-minute boat ride to Boracay.

When to go
The weather is great during the summer months from March to the end of May but make
reservations early as this is the peak holiday season in Philippines. Summer is also the best time
to enjoy White Beach before the onset of the Southwest monsoon season (June Sept), which

results in choppy waters on the west of the island. During the monsoon, boats taking visitors to
outlying islets or back to Caticlan set off from Bulabog Beach on the opposite side of the island.

Things to do
PARAW SAILING These boats with eye-catching sails ply the waters of Boracay, offering rides to
tourists game for adventure. An average paraw can accommodate four to six
passengers. www.boracayinsider.com
KITE AND WIND SURFING Touted as one of the best places to learn kitesurfing in Asia due to
its perfect winds, Boracay is a favourite haunt of kitesurfers or kiteboarders. Before kitesurfing
was all the rage, the island was popular with windsurfers. Every January, the Boracay
International Funboard Cup, which features windsurfi ng and kiteboarding events, attracts
extreme sports enthusiasts from all over the
world. www.islakitesurfing.com, www.windsurfasia.com
DMALL PLAZA The biggest shopping area on Boracay, this pedestrian mall along Station 2 is
packed with shops selling everything under the sun, as well as restaurants and bars.