All you need to know about

where to sleep, eat, drink,

visit and enjoy

Online

Mobile

Print

www.

pocket.com

Europes biggest publisher of locally produced

city guides
italy.inyourpocket.com

ARRIVING & GETTING AROUND

Airports
Venice Marco Polo Airport
Venice Marco Polo is one of Italys main airports, serviced by world class
airlines from Emirates to Alitalia - the national carrier, flights are available
to over 60 international and domestic destinations. Marco Polo is also
popular with budget travellers with Easyjet offering numerous domestic
and European connections. Marco Polo airport is just across the lagoon
from the floating city with water taxis and waterbuses shuttling back and
forth between Venice and the airport. Regular taxis and buses also connect the airport with Venice and Mestre.
There are a wide range of shops at the airport offering airport standards from
perfume and electronics to international newspapers whilst the regional delicacies on offer including excellent local wines and grappa make for excellent
gifts. Foodwise there are a couple of places offering quick pizza and pasta

meals whilst there are also a number of cafes and bars perfect for grabbing a
sandwich and that last espresso/Campari of your trip to Venice.QVia Galileo
Galilei 30/1, Tessera-Venezia, tel. +39 041 260 9260, www.veniceairport.it.

Gondola
The gondola is surely the most famous symbol of Venice. Perfectly designed for shunting around the shallows of the Venetian lagoon and the
citys narrow waterways, these exquisite handcrafted vessels have been a
mainstay of Venetian life and culture for centuries. The gondola may have
lost its place as the workhorse of Venice, though fleets of them continue
to punt tourists around and come the first Sunday in September they race
along the Grand Canal in the classic Regata Storica.
Skippered by the proud (occasionally arrogant), stripped shirt wearing gondoliers, todays gondolas are basically just for tourists and yes they can cost an
arm and a leg to ride in (though there are ways to keep costs down) however
we must admit that a ride in a gondola is a quintessential Venetian experience and great way to explore this wondrous city. The gondolas themselves are

obsessively alike - we havent measured ourselves, but apparently they must

be 10.87m long and constructed using eight specific woods. So the question
is not which gondola to choose, but what you want to see. Tours can be prebooked or you can negotiate a personalised itinerary with your gondolier - we
love exploring the narrow back canals where Venices hidden beauty can be
seen. The other big question, is of course, how much you are willing to spend.
The official minimum fare is 80 per gondola (for up to 6 persons) for 40 minutes. Prices fluctuate seasonally and can also depend on ones haggling skills,
though in general group tours during the day are the cheapest option.
For those on tight budgets the seven Traghetto gondola ferries, which simply shuttle back and forth across the Grand Canal, are a great way to have a
gondola trip very cheaply (2) even if it lasts barely a minute.

Vaporetto
Vaporetto or waterbuses are the way the masses travel in Venice, whilst
they are not quite as romantic as a gondola they are a fraction of the cost
and are a great way to get around and see Venice. The vaporetto network

has some 22 lines (some of which run seasonally) including countless lines
along the Canal Grande and connections with practically all of Venices surrounding islands such as Murano, famous for its blown glass.
Single use tickets start from 7 for 60 minutes, while tourist travel cards
offer a much better value for most visitors, allowing unlimited travel for
periods from 12 hours to 7 days.
Note: remember to stamp your ticket in the yellow machine before getting on the vaporetto.Qwww.actv.it

Water Taxis
One of the best ways to see Venice is from the water, and while gondolas
may be the traditional favourite (and also the priciest option) the stunning
fleets of luxury wooden water taxis have always taken our fancy (and are
significantly less pricey). Water taxis dont just offer luxury airport transfers
from Marco Polo, they also shuttle visitors around Venice and between its
islands, whilst a water taxi guided tour of the sights is a great way to experience the Most Serene Republic.

E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S
Publisher IQBATOR Ltd.
Italy In Your Pocket
Drenikova 33, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia
Tel. +39 328 083 1957, +386 30 316 602
venice@inyourpocket.com
Director
Niko Slavnic M.Sc., niko.slavnic@inyourpocket.com

Printed Grafokom
Published three times per year
Map Creative Commons / ShareAlike 3.0 License
Editorial
Managing editor Yuri Barron
Writers John Bills, Will Dunn, James Cosier, Yuri Barron
Research Florence Mnard
Layout & Design Radomir Lazovi
Consulting Craig Turp
Photos Shutterstock, Flikr, Wikimedia Commons
Cover photo Sonsam/Shuterstock
Sales & Operations Management
Eva Trinca, Niko Slavnic
+39 328 083 1957
eva.trinca@inyourpocket.com

inyourpocket.com

INTRODUCING VENICE

WHERE TO STAY
Upmarket
Bauer Palladio Hotel & Spa
The five-star Bauer Palladio offers an unbeatable location on the peaceful
Giudecca island, just across the water from San Marco. As such, the views of
Venice are breathtaking, some rooms looking out over the water and other over
the hotels tranquil gardens. In addition, theres a 450 square metre spa with eight
treatment rooms, and the whole thing is housed in a 16th century convent. While
several of the rooms look dated, the decor is impressive, with antiquated tapestries and paintings. A free shuttle boat runs between the hotel and San Marco.
QE-6, Giudecca 33, tel. +39 041 27 03 80 9/+39 041 52 07 02 2, fax +39 041 52
07 55 7, info@bauervenezia.com, www.palladiohotelspa.com. Open every
day 24h/ a day. 50 rooms.

Light traffic near Rialto Bridge on the Grand Canal just after sunset,
Wikimedia Commons/chensiyuan

We first visited Venice more than a decade ago. Attempting to make the
drive from Paris in a single day, we arrived sometime in the early morning
hours and ended up sleeping in our rental car (a tiny grey Peugeot 206) to
save money on a hotel. Unfortunately, it seems St Martha, the patron saint
of hoteliers, was watching over our incredibly uncomfortable few hours of
half-sleep, as we awoke to find a parking ticket on the windscreen! Failing to
fully appreciate the irony of the situation, we grudgingly took the train from
Mestre on the mainland to the island(s) of Venice proper - definitely worse for
wear and not exactly in the best of spirits, but still intent on checking another
famous city off our bucket list.
But Venice is not just another famous city. You always remember your first
trip here, your first glimpse of buildings rising up out of the lagoon as you
cross the causeway or approach by boat. Regardless of the mood youre in,
its impossible not to be enchanted by the mere sight of the Most Serene
Republic. Even for us, the city is still every bit as charming as it was on that
morning more than a decade ago. Venice is a truly magical place, and there
is simply nowhere like it in the world, which is our rather long-winded way
of saying that we are very pleased to introduce our first, and much overdue,
Venice In Your Pocket (mini) guide. On the pages below weve just begun to
scratch the surface of what Venice has to offer, and are currently preparing
reams more content for the release of our full guide later this year. Until then
keep up to date on our progress online at venice.inyourpocket.com or on
Facebook. And if you have any questions, comments or feedback of any kind
wed love to hear it at venice@inyourpocket.com.

Venice by the numbers

271,000 inhabitants (commune)
60,000 inhabitants (historic centre)
20,000,000 tourists per year
121 islands in the historic centre
435 bridges
4 bridges over the Grand Canal
177 canals
42 kilometres of canals
400 licensed Gondolas
7.6 square kilometres (historic centre)
119 churches
50,000 people died from plague in 1630
120,000 pigeons

Mini-Guide

Spring 2014

Venice

Hotels

Restaurants

Bars

Sights

Maps

WHAT TO SEE

DISCOUNTS
UP TO 70
Take in Venice in all its glory from atop the Campanile, Flickr/Rob Young

Essential Sights

FOLLOW US ON:

ALWAYS OPEN,
FROM 10 AM TO 8 PM.

A4 HIGHWAY
FROM VENICE TO TRIESTE
EXIT PALMANOVA

WWW.PALMANOVAOUTLET.IT

Cipriani
Located on Giudecca Island, Hotel Cipriani really is the definition of old world
luxury. With glorious views of the Venice lagoon and the grand Palladian church
of San Giorgo, Cipriani is an island of tranquility existing outside of the chaos of
the Piazza San Marco. Relaxation is the only option when faced with the beautiful gardens, Olympic-sized swimming pool and luxury wellness facilities. The
room and waiting service borders on the unbelievable too, with nothing left to
chance.QE-6, Giudecca 10, tel. +39 041 240 801/+39 01 852 678 451, fax +39
041 520 3930, reservations@hotelcipriani.net, www.hotelcipriani.com.
Danieli
The Danieli promises convenience, comfort and atmosphere, and they arent
far wrong. The views are breathtaking and the location simply cannot be
beaten. Theres a reason the Danieli was chosen as the location for large parts
of The Tourist, as well as being the hotel of choice for Dickens, Byron, Goethe
and Steven Spielberg. Its all elegant columns and old style wooden floors,
brining to life the Venice that exists in the minds of most.QE-4, Riva degli
Schiavoni 4196, tel. +39 041 522 6480, fax +39 041 5200 208, danieli@
luxurycollection.com, www.danielihotelvenice.com.
Gritti Palace
When thinking of the Gritti Palace, only one word springs to our mind: total luxurious elegance. Okay, thats three words, but theres no way of truly describing
this hotel in a single word. It is grand, it is lavish and it is exactly what the name
would suggest. Somehow a relaxed air is maintained throughout. The rooms are
spacious, the food is excellent and the veranda bar gives you wonderful views
over Venice with cocktails to die for, for want of a better phrase. Gritti Palace is
the definition of opulence.QD-4, Campo Santa Maria del Giglio, 2467, tel. +39
041 794611, fax +39 041 5200942, grittipalace@luxurycollection.com, www.
thegrittipalace.com.
Londra Palace
In a city full of hotels renowned for their beautiful views of Venices endless
canals, the ones afforded to you by the Londra Palace really take the biscuit.
Whether youre sipping coffee at sunrise or downing cocktails at sunset, Venice

WHAT TO SEE
on par with its Parisian counterpart in terms of worldwide recognition,
the comparison is not entirely accurate. For instance, you wont find many
shops, restaurants or pavement cafs lining its banks, as only short sections of the canal actually have pavement. Along much of the Grand Canal,
the turquoise waters gently splash up against the fronts of the some 200
palaces and other historic buildings found along its path.
Many of the residences were built between the 13th and 18th centuries
by wealthy families, who often competed amongst each other to see who
could build the most splendid and ornate homes, with Venetian interpretations of Byzantine, Gothic, Baroque and Neoclassical architectural styles all
well-represented. Of course the undisputed winners of these noble rivalries are the modern day tourists who get to view magnificent faades while
traversing the canal. In fact, you could likely spend a lifetime making daily
trips on and down the waterway, and still find new sights to feast ones
eyes on each time.

90 BRAND
STORES.

ALL YEAR

Corte Di Gabriela
Somewhere around 100 per cent of the hotels in Venice claim to be both classic
and contemporary, but none manage this quite as well as Corte Di Gabriela in the
San Marco district. The breakfast is utterly exquisite, often cooked by the manager
of the hotel himself. Its this sort of hands-on service that truly encapsulates the feel
of Corte Di Gabriela. They claim that no two rooms are alike, and they arent wrong.
One even has a circular bed! Venetian furnishings and frescoes provide a true 19thcentury atmosphere, all be it a 19th century with a free-to-use iPad provided in
each room.QD-4, Calle degli Avvocati - San Marco 3836, tel. +39 041 523 5077,
fax +39 041 241 3339, info@cortedigabriela.com, www.cortedigabriela.com.

Basilica di San Marco

While the magnificent Byzantine-style Basilica of San Marco is Venices most
recognisable sight, most people are likely unaware of the rather roguish history
behind both the churchs construction and the way in which St Mark came to
be the citys patron saint. The short version of the story is that it was originally
built in 828 to house the remains of Mark the Evangelist, which were stolen
from their resting place in Alexandria by Venetian merchants and smuggled
out of Egypt hidden beneath pork and cabbage (to dissuade Muslim customs
agents from finding them). The reason for this holy heist? The Doge was convinced that the burgeoning Venetian Republic would greatly benefit from the
supernatural protection bestowed upon it by possessing the relics of one of
the original apostles. And given what transpired in the following nine centuries, its hard to argue with the results.
Of course history aside, the basilica itself is truly a sight to behold both
inside and out, with its trademark domes and golden mosaics dominating
the eastern edge of its namesake square. Dating from the end of the 11th
century, its current form follows the layout of a Greek cross and is based on
the Church of the Holy Apostle in Istanbul. The ceilings are covered with an
astonishing 8000 square metres of gold mosaics, while the most impressive single work is the high altarpiece (the so-called Pala dOro or Golden
Cloth), which depicts the story of St Mark and is encrusted with nearly 2000
precious gems. All things considered, its not hard to see why its nickname
is the Church of Gold.QE-4, San Marco 328, tel. +39 041 2708311, www.
basilicasanmarco.it. Open 09:45-17:00, Sun and holidays 14:00-16:00,
Bell Tower open 09:00-15:45 in winter, 09:00-19:00 in Oct and spring,
09:00-21:00 in summer. Admission to basilica free, museum 5, Pala
dOro 2, Treasury 3, Bell Tower 8.
Grand Canal
Following the path carved out by an ancient river that once flowed into
the lagoon, the Grand Canal divides the main island of Venice roughly into
two halves on either side of a 3.8km long inverted S-shape, which leads
from Santa Lucia train station to the Giudecca Canal and the edge of Piazza
San Marco. Its width varies between 30 and 90 metres, and in a testament
to the citys water-centric mentality it was only crossed by a single bridge
(Ponte di Rialto) until the 19th century, and today there are still only a total
of four - the last of which was the controversial Ponte della Constitzione,
which opened in 2008.
The worlds most famous aquatic thoroughfare is often described as Venices version of the Champs-Elyses, and while the Grand Canal is indeed

Piazza San Marco

The heart and soul of historic Venice, the drawing room of Europe (according to
Napoleon), ground zero for the millions of tourists that pour into the city each
year - Piazza San Marco is truly one of the worlds most famous and impressive
squares. Not overwhelmingly massive in size, it does feel quite large relative
to the labyrinth of narrow streets, passageways and canals that most visitors
have to navigate to arrive there. When the Basilica of San Marco was first constructed at the beginning of the 9th century, the square that lay in front of it
was little more than a grassy patch of land no more than 60 metres in length,
but as Venices wealth and power grew so to did its central public space.
The piazza was expanded to its present size during the late 12th century,
when the Rio Baratario canal was filled in and the Church of San Geminiano
was demolished and moved much further to the west. The instantly recognisable Campanile took its present form in 1514, while the three-story
buildings that still stand to the north and south were slowly built and rebuilt during the 1500s. In 1810, the twice unlucky Church of San Geminiano
was once again demolished from its position at the western end of the
square to make room for what is now known as the Napoleonic Wing, on
the personal orders of the Little Corporal himself.
The smaller lagoon-facing square to the southwest may be officially known
by the diminutive title Piazzetta San Marco, but it does have claim to just as
many points of interest as its larger sibling, including the Doges Palace, the
Biblioteca Marciana (one of Italys most important libraries), and two large
granite columns topped by two greatly important symbols: the winged
Lion of Venice and St Theodore, the citys original patron saint.QE-4.
Ponte di Rialto
One of Venices most iconic sights, the Rialto bridge is also one of only
four spans that cross the nearly 4km length of the Grand Canal. Taking its
name from the the historical financial and commercial district found in its
immediate area (which itself is derived from the Italian for high bank), the
bridges first incarnation was as a floating pontoon structure built at the
end of 12th century, which was shortly upgraded to a more permanent
wooden bridge in 1255. However, in the three centuries that followed, the
bridge was destroyed and rebuilt no less than three times - once by the
great fire of 1514 that engulfed the whole Rialto neighbourhood, and twice
collapsing under the weight of spectators watching a boat regatta.
In the mid-16th century, local authorities finally decided that the construction of a more resilient stone bridge was called for, and received proposals
from many of the top Italian architects of the period, including the none
other than Michelangelo himself. However, the commission was won by
the little known, but aptly named, Venetian architect Antonio da Ponte,
whose design was considered quite audacious at the time, and openly ridiculed by several of his contemporaries. Of course it was da Ponte who got
the proverbial last laugh, as his magnum opus went on to become one the
most famous and photographed bridges in the world.QD-3.

WHERE TO STAY

WHERE TO EAT

comes alive from the various rooms of the Londra Palace. Speaking of those
cocktails, they may be pricey but they also happen to be fantastic. The restaurant offers great food with generous portions, something that should be
applauded in a hotel of such class.QE-4, Riva Degli Schiavoni - Castello 4171,
tel. +39 041 52 00 53 3, fax +39 041 52 25 03 2, info@hotelondra.it, www.
hotelondra.it.
Molino Stucky Hilton Venice
Situated in a 19th century flour mill, the Hilton Molino Stucky describes itself
as a modern Venetian masterpiece and that might just be an understatement.
Timber beamed ceilings dominate the elegant bedrooms, and there is a 24hour fitness centre free to use by guests. However, for us the real star of this
show is the rooftop swimming pool, situated 35m above sea-level. There isnt
a better place to watch the sun go down (or go for a swim) in the city.QB-5,
Giudecca 810, tel. +39 041 27 23 31 1, fax +39 041 27 23 30 8, info.venice@
hilton.com, www.molinostuckyhilton.com. Open 24h/ a day.
The Westin Europa & Regina
As strange as it might sound for a hotel where you can easily spend 500 a
night for a double room, there might not be better value for location in Venice
than the Westin. With rooms overlooking the Grand Canal, the addition of its
own personal pier for a water taxi arrival embellishes the romance of this hotel.
Bar Tiepolo inside is a little on the expensive side, but when sipping in such
grandiose surroundings its easy to see why. Late at night the terrace bar comes
alive. Great beds too.QD-4, San Marco 2159, tel. +39 041 24 00 01, fax +39
041 52 31 53 3, europa.regina@westin.com, www.westin.com. Open every
day 24h/ a day. 185 rooms.

Budget
Casa SantAndrea
Sometimes no frills is just what the doctor ordered. Casa SantAndrea could be
defined as such, an certainly considered basic, but as far as affordable options
in a notoriously expensive city go its one of the best. Situated in an old monastery, its in a great location for the bus to and from the airport as well as being
a frequently used stop on the vaporetto (waterbus) routes. Wake up to the
old monastery bell and explore Venice before the crowds fill the streets.QB-3,
Sestiere Santa Croce 495/B, tel. +39 041 277 0945, info@casasantandrea.it,
www.casasantandrea.it.
Generator Venice
On the historical Giudecca island in south central Venice, Generator Venice is
one of the best (and only) accommodation options in the city for those on a
tighter budget. Dorms, quads and private en-suite rooms are all available here,
and each bed comes with an individual plug and LED light for some late-night
reading. The real joy is in the downstairs 360 bar however, an area that is perfect for socialising over a beer or two. The see-through shower doors are a bit
strange, but we all have our quirks.QD-6, Fondamenta Zitelle 86, Guidecca,
tel. +39 041 877 8288, info@ostellovenezia.it, generatorhostels.com.
Ostella Santa Fosca
Italy is known for many things, and a long Catholic history is one of those.
Ostella Santa Fosca is located in an old church campus, giving you the opportunity to sleep in this very same history. Its also connected to a university residence hall, so the atmosphere is a bit more lively and youthful
than your average church. Unlimited free tea and coffee can keep even the
sleepiest going, and the staff are extremely adept at providing advice on
your time in Venice. One thing to be aware of however, the common room
closes at 20:00 and the reception times are quite strict.QD-2, Fondamenta
Canal, Cannaregio 2372, tel. +39 041 715 775, ostello@santafosca.it,
www.ostellosantafosca.it.

WHAT TO SEE

Dining al fresco on the Giudecca Canal, photo by YMB

Al Bacco Felice
Can a fine-dining pizzeria truly exist? Al Bacco Felice suggests that it can. A
fantastic place for a slow, relaxed lunch, this small unassuming eatery provides
a pleasant atmosphere thats perfect for watching the day go by. The staff accentuate this, with a stress-free attitude to service that contrasts with many
other places in the city. Theres a 2 cover charge per person, but dont let
that stop you from enjoying some of the best pizza in town.QB-3, Colle degli Amai 197/E, Santa Croce, tel. +39 041 528 7794, albaccofelice@libero.it.
Open 12:00 - 15:30, 18:30-23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:30.
Antico Martini
The Antico Martini started out as a coffee shop in 1720 and has since grown
into one of Venices top restaurants, these days serving up fine Venetian specialities with an emphasis on seafood. Being on San Fantin square, the terrace
is too good to miss when the weather is nice, otherwise there are the three
elegant dining rooms. The Fenice theatre is adjacent, making it perfect for preshow dinner or after-show drinks, while the proprietors nearby piano bar (San
Marco 2007) is also open from 22:00.QD-4, San Marco 1983, tel. +39 041 52
37 02 7/+39 041 52 24 12 1, info@anticomartini.com, www.anticomartini.
com. Open . Closed Tue. .
Aromi
The Venice Hiltons flagship restaurant Aromi goes a long way towards proving
that the south of the country doesnt have a monopoly on quality Mediterranean food. Open from April until October, diners have a choice of either the
interior dining room or the panoramic terrace - the latter is quite obviously the
better choice, affording guests magnificent views of the Giudecca canal and
Venices skyline. Sure, the prices are typical of the Hilton name, but the sophisticated setting makes you feel like youre at least getting your moneys worth.
QB-5, Giudecca 810, tel. +39 041 2723 311, www.molinostuckyhilton.com.
Open 19:00 - 22:30. .

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

In a city full of classic, instantly recognisable sights, it is the silhouette of
what the locals lovingly refer to as La Salute that finds its way into the
background of perhaps the most photographs and canvasses. Built in the
17th century to celebrate the ending of the plague, subtlety was not something on the artists agenda. The huge octagonal building was constructed
on a platform of more than one million wooden piles, taking more than
50 years to complete. In contrast to the bright gold of the Basilica di San
Marco, the interior here is much more austere, but it is home to works of
art by luminaries such as Tintoretto and Titian, as well as many exquisite
stone sculptures.QD-5, Fondamenta Salute, tel. +39 041 241 1018. Open
09:00 - 12:00, 15:00-17:30.

Osteria Alle Testiere

A simple trattoria both inside and out, this eatery becomes a Michelin
acclaimed gem when their amazing food is tasted. Widely praised, we
waited in anticipation for the 19:00 sitting, with 20 or so other lucky diners (the restaurant seats an exclusive 24), and werent disappointed. Of
all the fine dining in Venice, nothing gives the satisfaction more than the
understated. Perfectly cooked scallops, prawns in busara sauce, and a
divine pumpkin ravioli were all top notch. Located a few hundred metres north of Piazza San Marco.QE-3, Castello 5801, Calle del Mondo
Novo, tel./fax 0039 041 52 27 22 0, osterialletestiere@yahoo.it, www.
osterialletestiere.it. Open 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00-23:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

Harrys Bar
Harrys bar was opened in 1931 by former bartender Giuseppe Cipriani. It has
since acquired legendary status, courtesy of a patronage including the likes of
Charlie Chaplin, Earnest Hemingway, Alfred Hitchcock and Orson Welles. Still
run by the Cipriani family, Harrys currently has a full menu including soups,
sandwiches, scampi and veal mains (among others) and of course, Harrys
Dolci cake for dessert. If nothing else, come for the cocktails; the Bellini and
Carpaccio were actually invented here.QD-4, San marco 1323, tel. +39 041
52 85 77 7, fax +39 041 52 08 82 2, harrysbar@cipriani.com, www.cipriani.
com. Open 10:30 - 23:30. 20 - 50. .
Gam Gam Kosher
The only Kosher restaurant in all of Venice, Gam Gam is something special. Sitting right
at the entrance to the oldest ghetto in the world, Gam Gam cooks up homey food
with huge variety and even bigger portions - seriously, these are some big portions!
Its very popular, so we recommend making a reservation ahead of time. Head there
on a Saturday evening for Shabbat, where meals are free, costing just a suggested
donation. The rest of the week is still inexpensive, with most of the mains under 15.
QC-2, Ghetto Vecchio, Sestiere Cannaregio 1122, tel. +39 041 275 9256/+39 366
250 4505, info@jewishvenice.org, gamgamkosher.com. Open 12:00 - 22:00.
Il Ridotto
Down a side street just off Piazza San Marco, Il Ridotto (which translates as
reduced) is a delightfully romantic intimate experience. The two-course lunch
tasting menu is good value at 28, and the attentive and well-humoured staff
will add to your enjoyment. Theyll also help out with the rather intimidating
wine list, which has a great selection of choices by the glass. The food is fresh
and full of gutsy local flavours, and its popularity with the locals can only be
a good thing. Book ahead to avoid disappointment.QE-4, Campiello Santi
Filippo e Giacomo, Castello 4509, tel. +39 041 520 8280, info@ilridotto.
com, www.ilridotto.com. .
Met Restaurant
The charge of stagnation is something that Luca Veritti and his staff at the Met
Restaurant cant be accused of. This Michelin star restaurant is unique in that it
offers TraContemporary cuisine, helping it to stand out brighter than most. The
idea is simple enough: traditional recipes deconstructed with a modern spin.
The result can bring out some peculiar aesthetics, but this is truly a rare joy. The
dcor is all 17th century paintings and antiques, topping off this most unique
of gastronomic experiences.QF-4, Riva degli Schiavoni, Castello 4149, tel.
+39 041 5240034, met@hotelmetropole.com, www.hotelmetropole.com.

WHAT TO SEE

WHAT TO SEE
you can visit the island from April till October and explore the detailed archives of its
unusual history. Book ahead for a tour in English.QIsola del Lazzaretto Nuovo, tel.
+39 041 244 4011, info@lazzarettonuovo.com, lazzarettonuovo.com.
Lido
Venices Lido is the original, the term having been been appropriated by the British to refer to public swimming pools sometime in the mid-1930s. With large
sandy beaches (some private, some public) and quiet open space, its good as
a summer retreat from the crowds for a stroll or spot of cycling. Most famously,
Lido is home to the Venice Film Festival, which is held here every September.
Other than that theres the Grand Hotel Excelsior and Grand Hotel des Bains, the
latter made famous by Thomas Manns Death in Venice. The lagoon side of the
island has a Vaporetto water bus stop, from which the main street, the Gran Viale
Santa Maria Elisabetta, leads to the islands eastern shore, on the Adriatic sea.

Historic Buildings
Palazzo Ducale (The Doges Palace)
Dont be deceived by the beauty of the exterior of the Doges Palace, Piazza San
Marco, for justice was served decidedly brutally here, particularly for the crime of
treason. The seat of the supreme rulers of the Venetian empire until 1797, Palazzo
Ducale is a wonderful example of Venetian Gothic architecture, where every column
is different. An awesome sight even from an exterior glance, the two possible tours
reveal at least some of the layers of history, the standard tour leading the (literally)
hourdes of visitors (over one million in 2010) through rooms of painted ceilings, featuring paintings by Titian, Tintoretto and Veronese, majestic staircases and the grave
bridge of sighs, where prisoners would take their last walk to their fate. Of course,
each room also has its secret passageways, prison cells and theres even a torture
chamber, the secret tour opening these up to our modern gaze. The great seducer,
Casanova, was the first to break this gargantuous bastion of power, escaping from
one of the prisons. The palace has been open as a museum since 1923.QE-4, San
Marco 1, tel. +39 041 271 5911, info@fmcvenezia.it, palazzoducale.visitmuve.it.
Teatro La Fenice
Is there a more aptly named theatre in the entire world? La Fenice (the Phoenix) has quite literally risen from the flames on two separate occasions during its
more than two-century history. Fires in 1836 and 1996 couldnt hinder its reputation as one of the most famous theatres in Europe. And what visit to Italy is complete without a trip to the opera? If you cant make a show, the theatre is open
from 9:30 to 18:30 every day for tours, costing 9 with discounts for students. The
stunning interior is worth every Euro.QD-4, Campo San Fantin 1965, tel. +39
041 786 511, www.teatrolafenice.it.

Islands
Burano
Whilst much of Venice itself could be considered hugely photogenic, Burano
might just be the very definition of the term. This residential archipelago
some 40 minutes from Venice by boat is one bright house after another, the
whole place resembling the most intense of colour explosions. Burano really is a photographers paradise. Originally used to show where each familys quarters ended, the choice of colours is now strictly controlled by the
government. The island has also always been famous for its handmade lace
products, as well as its yellow S shaped biscuits. Be sure to try them!

The Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute as seen from Giudecca Island,
Flickr/Torcello Trio

C DOro alla Vedova

Truth be told, there are only two things you truly need to know about Alla
Vedova: authenticity and meatballs. Dont expect hoards of tourists here, this
truly is Venetian cuisine off the beaten track. Its the type of restaurant that attracts mainly locals, most of whom seem to be instinctively drawn here by the
sheer quality of their meatballs. Full of flavour, we really cant recommend them
enough. One thing to note, they dont accept credit cards, so carry cash when
visiting.QD-2, Calle del Pistor, Cannaregio 3912, tel. +39 041 528 5324.
Open 11:30 - 14:30, 18:30-22:30, Sun 18:30 - 23:00. Closed Thu.

Mirai
In a sea, or rather lagoon, of only Venetian and Italian dining options, some will
inevitably tire of all the pasta and seafood sauces and crave for something different.
Asian cuisine is not very well represented here in Venice, but Mirai offers a more
than acceptable alternative. With fresh market bought fish they churn out some
very respectable sashimi, maguro and tempura, which despite being expensive,
are to a comparable standard of the US or other more sushi-fond European cities.
Located near the train station.QC-2, Rio Ter Lista de Spagna, Cannaregio 227,
tel. +39 041 220 6517, www.miraivenice.com. Open 19:30 - 23:00. Closed Mon.

Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs)

Given its peculiar name by Lord Byron, Venices Bridge of Sighs still emanates history from its every surface. Built in 1602 after the design by the nephew of Antonio da
Ponte (of Rialto bridge fame), the covered stone structure connects the New Prison
with the Doges Palace. The view of Venice through the bridges windows and stone
grills was the last that convicts saw before serving their sentences, and legend has it
that if a couple kisses on a gondola underneath during sunset while the bells of the
Campanile are ringing, they shall be granted eternal love and bliss. Take the tour at
the Doges Palace to see that grave, sigh-inducing view for yourself.QE-4.

Churches

WHERE TO EAT

Bacaro Osteria Barababao

Some may call the dcor unconventional, but we think it adds extra layers of
enchantment to Barababao. Hidden down a narrow lane just a few minutes
walk from Rialto bridge in the Cannaregio district, those who find it will be
rewarded with a complimentary glass of Prosecco upon arrival their arrival. All
the food is prepared to order to guarantee some of the freshest meals in the
city, and the servings are generous to say the least. Plus anything with black
squid ink on the menu is fine with us.QE-3, Cannaregio 5835, tel. +39 041
522 1061, info@barababao.it, nuke.barababao.it.

Bridges

Ponte dei Pugni (The Bridge of Fists)

In the 17th century, autumn in Venice was fighting season. For many reasons,
be they clashing romantic interests or trade squabbles, men would meet on
neighbourhood bridges in order to settle the issue with their fists. These fisticuffs werent approved by the law enforcement, but they were deemed much
better than the sharpened stick fights that were the norm previously. The most
famous of these bridges was Ponte dei Pugni, near Campo Santa Barnaba in
Dorsoduro. Today four white marble footprints mark the position from where
the fighters would begin.QC-4, Campo San Barnaba.

WHERE TO EAT

Lazzaretto Nuovo and the Vampires of Venice

What started out as a peaceful monastic centre would become a hellhole. In 1468,
Lazzaretto Nuovo (Italian for new quarantine) was converted into a plague stop for
ships arriving in Venice from the east, and anyone suspected of carrying the plague
was summarily left here to perish. The island was back in the headlines in 2005,
when the skull of a woman was discovered with a brick shoved into her jaw. During
the Middle Ages, this was one of the more reputable methods of killing vampires,
whom it was believed were responsible for spreading the plague. Fun! Nowadays,

Murano
This archipelago one mile north of Venice is known worldwide for one thing: glass.
There is barely a single upscale hotel in all of Italy, let alone Venice, that doesnt
make a point of talking up the Murano glass chandeliers they possess, and with
good reason. Murano had a monopoly on glass-making for centuries, and it was
the most elite of professions in Venice, making Murano the most famous of Venices
archipelagos. The glass has been produced since the 10th century, but it wasnt
until 1291 that it gained its inflated status. It was in that year that all of the glassmaking factories in Venice were moved to Murano due to the fear of potential fires.
Whilst the majority of the best glass factories today are closed to visitors, you
can still visit a couple of them, as well as the Glass Museum in Palazzo Giustinian near the centre of Murano. There are also a total of four churches, although
only two are open for visitors. The more impressive of the two is the Basilica
del Santa Maria e San Donato. Legend has it that it houses the bones of a slain
dragon. Were skeptical, but you never truly know.
Visit the archipelago by taking vaporetto number 12, 13 or 52 from Fondamente Nuove, or the number 52 from Piazzale Roma.
San Servolo Insane Asylum
Okay, so an insane asylum might not sound like the most enjoyable place to spend
an afternoon while on holiday in Venice, but theres no denying it can be a hugely
fascinating experience. San Servolo Island earned the unflattering nickname the
Island of the Mad by serving as the official mental asylum for Venice from 1725
until 1978. It has been open as a museum since 2006. Divided into nine sections
(one of which is cheerily titled the Sick) and containing a photo album of patients,
this is one of Venices most macabre yet captivating sights. Vaporetto 20 makes
the 10-minute journey here from the San Zaccaria pier near San Marco every hour
or so.QIsola di San Servolo, tel. +39 041 2765451/+39 041 5267871, info@
fondazionesanservolo.it, www.fondazionesanservolo.it.

Osteria Da Fiore
What isnt there to love about eating in an old Venetian tavern? This
odd yet charming space provides quality cuisine, all be it with often
challenging ingredients. The subtle tastes on the menu might not fit all
palettes, but the elegance of Da Fiore is undeniable. Book well ahead
in order to secure the balcony table overlooking the canals, surely one
of the most romantic spots in the entire city.QC-3, San Polo 2002, tel.
+39 (041) 721308, info@dafiore.net, www.dafiore.net. Open 12:30 14:30, 19:30-22:30. Closed Mon, Sun. .
Quadri
The only fine dining experience to be had on San Marco piazza itself, the
Quadri is one of the citys top restaurants. Featuring some of the first dark
wood furnishings and sparkling chandeliers that would come to characterise a quintessential Venetian dining room, it is presently run by the Alajmo
family. Silvio Giavedoni and the sous chef Denis Mattiuzzi maintain a menu
of increasingly traditional Venetian cuisine, the fish coming direct from the
citys lagoons and Rialto market every day. Tasting menus range from 180220 without wine.QE-4, 720 Sestiere San Marco, tel. 0039 041 52 89 29 9,
fax 0039 41 52 08 04 1, quadri@quadrivenice.com, www.quadrivenice.
com. Open 12:00 - 14:30; 19:00 - 22:30. Closed Mon. .
Trattoria Corte Sconta
Dont let the unassuming faade fool you, inside this little restaurant is
a beautiful courtyard perfect for outdoor dining. This is traditional food
done well. It can be a little tough to find, down narrow alleys and anonymous streets, but it is worth the effort. Vegan and gluten-free choices are
also available. The immense selection of antipasti can be daunting, but
the attentive staff will help you out at a moments notice.QF-4,Calle del
Pestrin 3886, Castello, tel. +39 041 522 7024, corte.sconta@yahoo.it.
Open 12:30 - 14:30, 19:00-21:30. Closed Mon, Sun.
Venissa
In Venice, fine dining isnt restricted to the main island. Hop on the Motonave ferry and take a half-hour journey out to the little island of Mazzorbo.
Formerly a spiritual retreat for the rich, Mazzorbo is now home to Venissa,
an estate that is home to vineyards, a small guesthouse and this wonderfully elegant restaurant. To call it idyllic would be doing it a disservice. The
setting is reflected in the delightful food, with ingredients almost entirely
sourced from the surroundings. The seasonal nature of the cuisine means
the menu changes almost daily. Venice simply doesnt get any more tranquil.QFondamenta Santa Catarina 3, Isola di Mazzorbo, tel. +39 041 52
72 281, fax +39 041 52 72 323, info@venissa.it, venissa.it.

Many more restaurants online at

venice.inyourpocket.com

WHAT TO SEE
Carnevale di Venenzia
15.02 Saturday - 04.03 Tuesday
Aside from the outlandish parties that engulf the streets of Rio de Janeiro
in Brazil each year, Venices Carnival is easily the worlds most famous
celebration ostensibly held to mark the beginning of the 40-day fasting
period before Easter known as Lent. And while Rio may have the advantage of a tropical climate, Venices Carnival tradition not only outdates its
South American rival by over seven centuries, but the very word carnival
is derived from the Latin phrase meaning farewell to meat.
Although written documents first mention Carnival-like parties in Venice
at the end of the 11th century, historians point to the year 1162 as the
official beginning of the event, which celebrated the victory over and
subsequent public humiliation of the Patriarch of Aquileia, and was so
much fun that it became an annual event. Masks first began appearing a
century later, and as the power of the Venetian Republic grew, so too did
the festivities - reaching the point where masks were worn for up to half
the year by the end of the 18th century!
Of course all good things come to an end, and when the historically
stodgy Austrians took control of the city in 1798, masks were forbidden
in public and the tradition all but died out, until being revived in 1979 as
a way to spur tourism and economic growth. But the plan worked perhaps too well, as nowadays its estimated that some three million visitors
crowd into Venice during the two-week long festival each year, almost
literally packing every square metre of pavement in the citys historic centre. If youd like to be part of the fantastic chaos, the full programme of
event and lots of other info can be found well in advance on the official
website.Qwww.carnevale.venezia.it.

Jewish Venice
The Venetian Ghetto
Believe it or not, the first ghetto in recorded history can be found in
Venice. Founded in 1516 in an area of Canneregio district, this is where
the Jewish population of Venice lived during the Venetian Republic. The
very word ghetto that we know today came from the Venetian word
geto, which translates rather unflatteringly as slag or waste, a reference
to the large number of foundries in the area. Today, the area is the centre
of Jewish life in the city, with five synagogues still standing, as well as a
museum of Jewish art. Shabbat, the seventh day of the Jewish calendar,
is celebrated every Saturday here - arrive early to experience the lively
atmosphere. See the very infomative website of the Jewish Community
in Venice, or visit the info point at Cannaregio 1222.QC-1, tel. +39 041
523 7565, info@jvenice.org, www.jvenice.org.

Museums & Galleries

The weatherbeaten faade of the Doges Palace on Piazzetta San Marco,

Flickr/archer10

Gallerie dellAccademia
The gallery you should visit for a broad overview of Venetian and Italian
Rennaissance art, the Gallerie dellAccademia housing a pre-19th century
museum collection of paintings from numerous big names. There are
more than 20 medium sized rooms with works from Bellini, Canaletto,
Carpaccio, Giorgioni (The Tempest) and Paulo Veronese (Feast in the
House of Levi), and the Drawing of Vitruvian Man by Leonardo Da Vinci
undoubtedly draws the biggest crowds. Set in the old bulding of the
Scuola della Carit, it was once the gallery of the art academy of Venice,
the name of which the Vaporetto stop and a nearby bridge still bear (Accademia and Ponte dellAccademia). Beware entries are limited to a total
of 300, so head there before noon for the best chance of not waiting in
line.Q C-4/5, Campo della Carit 1050, tel. +39 041 520 0345, info@
gallerieaccademia.org, www.gallerieaccademia.org.