APRIL 2015 | VOTED AUSTRALIAS BEST FOOD MAGAZINE
delicious.
10
P
SINFULLY
GOOD
CHOCOLATE
RECIPES
Prestons
+ Matt
breads from
+
+
around the world
Easy one-tray dinners
Italian Easter feast
Tales from
TURKEY
The hottest foodie
destination for 2015
doughnuts
With a wicked whisky chocolate glaze
PIMP YOUR
DOUGHNUTS
Baked buttermilk
doughnuts with whisky
chocolate glaze
JAMIE OLIVER Modern Asian inspiration
VALLI LITTLE Mulled wine plum cobbler
COLIN FASSNIDGE The ultimate roast pork
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SHOP with CONFIDENCE
60
contents
162
SAVOUR
23
Hand picked
Seasonal recipes from Mike
McEnearney, of Kitchen by Mike.
43 Hotspot
Menu highlights from WAs Propeller
and Melbournes Estelle Bistro.
46 Balancing act
Antioxidants where you least expect
them, including luscious gnocchi.
60 Autumn entertaining
As the weather cools, Valli dishes up
a menu using her favourite produce.
68 Matt Preston
Sweet and savoury lled breads
from around the world.
80 Entertaining
Silvia Colloca invites us into her
home for Easter lunch, Italian-style.
90 Australian avours
Must-cook recipes from Australias
PorkStar chef-ambassadors.
100 Jamie Oliver
Fiery Southeast Asian specialities.
110 Faster food
Ten quick and easy one-tray baked
dinners for no-fuss weeknights.
124 Wicked
Decadent chocolate desserts to
enjoy this Easter or anytime.
ESCAPE
136 Global avours
An exclusive extract from Anatolia:
Adventures in Turkish Cooking.
144 24 hours in Lausanne
Make the most of one day in this
charming French-Swiss city.
146 Postcard
A taste of paradise at The Datai,
on Langkawi Island, Malaysia.
136
148 Locavore
Discover all there is to see, taste
and do in SAs Adelaide Hills.
REGULARS
10
12
15
16
32
35
48
52
54
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Talk to us
Out & about
Join us for our Next Gen dinner
in Queensland; a weekend away
at Lake House in Daylesford, Vic;
plus we preview the 2015 Noosa
International Food & Wine Festival.
Produce awards
Dont forget to cast your vote.
Insider
Food trends and restaurant news.
Im loving...
Matt Prestons Easter obsessions.
Drinks
What to drink with all the chocolate
in this issue? Mike Bennie explains.
Innovators
Anthony Huckstep spills the
beans on your morning coffee.
56
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Upgrade to receive a premium
Pukara Estate gift pack.
142 Insider: travel
Hot destinations, news and
products for the stylish nomad.
158 Recipe index & directory
162 Hit list
Meet Katherine Sabbath, home
baker and social media sensation.
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@deliciousAU
deliciousAU
ON THE COVER
Baked buttermilk doughnuts with
whisky chocolate glaze (recipe p 132)
Recipe Warren Mendes
Photography Jeremy Simons
Styling Vivien Walsh
delicious. 9
ED'S LETTER.
welcome
THERE ARENT many foods I love
more than chocolate and baked goods.
So put them together and you have
one super indulgent April issue.
As we bid farewell to summer, I like to
spend more time indoors baking with
my children. Saturday mornings are busy
spent at the kitchen bench, which oods
with milk puddles, our bombs and the
imprints of sticky little ngers. I love
watching the sense of achievement and
pride they feel at taking something special
out of the oven (and eating it, of course).
This month, theres so much to experiment with and be inspired by, in and
out of the kitchen: travels to exotic foodie destinations and recipes to cook
over the Easter break. On my radar are Matt Prestons breads of the world
(p 68), Silvia Collocas hearty Easter feast (her no-knead dough has my name
all over it, p 80), and the wicked chocolate desserts from our delicious.
food team (p 124). Plus, our regular Faster Food feature (p 110) is all
about speedy, one-pan roasts and bakes to beat the midweek dinner
rush walk through the door, turn on the oven and dinner is served.
Kerrie McCallum, Editor-in-chief
Follow me:
BOOK IT
Get in quick for our
Next Gen Dinner
Series: Queensland
pop-up Boy & Bird
by Ben Devlin is going
to be a eeting feast.
Dont miss it, p 16.
10 delicious.
WELCOME
Mike McEnearney,
of Sydneys beloved
Kitchen by Mike,
is joining us as a regular
contributor. Enjoy his
Hand Picked dishes
this month, p 23.
@kerriemccallum
@kerrie_mccallum
SHARE IT
Spread the love this
Easter with Warren
Mendes cover recipe
of baked buttermilk
doughnuts with
whisky chocolate
glaze, p 132.
E N T E R TA I N I N G
MODERN ASIAN
Crispy pork belly with
cashew nut caramel and
pickled watermelon, p 98
Henschke Julius Riesling
Swedish pecan
& cinnamon buns
AUTUMN BRUNCH
Mushrooms on eggy bread, p 28
~
BLT Tatin (bacon & tomato tarte
Tatin with cos salad), p 113
~
Swedish pecan & cinnamon
buns, p 74
Now that summers
beach days are gone,
my favourite weekend
pastime is a long brunch
at home. Add my
signature sparkling
pamplemousse
(grapefruit juice, soda
and Champagne) to
keep Monday at bay.
Shannon Harley,
managing editor
12delicious.
Gnocchi with
miso butter prawns, p 46
Calabria Private Bin Pinot Bianco
Banana fritters, p 108
Pressing Matters R69 Riesling
Best rule of thumb
with Asian is to go for
cooling, crisp whites
made from aromatic
grapes, like riesling.
Mike Bennie,
drinks writer
Oven-steamed salmon
PA R T Y F O O D
EASTER FEASTING
Torta pasqualina
(Easter savoury pie), p 86
Krondorf Chardonnay
Oven-steamed salmon, p 113
Minchinbury Prosecco
Crispy pork belly
Salted chocolate tart with
candied mandarin, p 128
Minchinbury Blush Ros Cuve
Opt for a lively
prosecco for the salmon
and end on a blushing
bubbly to elevate this
sensuous dessert.
Tina Jarrett, winemaker
at Minchinbury Wine
delicious.
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Kerrie McCallum
FOOD DIRECTOR
Valli Little valli.little@news.com.au
ART
Art Director Shannon Keogh shannon.keogh@news.com.au
Senior Designer Kate Skinner katherine.skinner@news.com.au
FOOD
Food Editor Warren Mendes warren.mendes@news.com.au
Food Assistant Hana Reza hana.reza@news.com.au
Food Enquiries askvalli@newslifemedia.com.au
Senior Editors Sally Feldman and Matt Preston
Contributors Mike Bennie, Maya Beus, Silvia Colloca,
Jill Dupleix, Anthony Huckstep, Sarah Lewis, Matt Moran,
Jamie Oliver, Matt Wilkinson, Simon Wilkinson
National Sales Director Paul Blackburn
NSW Group Sales Directors Rachael Delalande (02) 8045 4657,
Sam Tomlinson (02) 8045 4676, Belinda Miller (02) 8045 4651
Group Sales Partnerships David Rogers (02) 8045 4741
VIC Sales Director Kim Carollo (03) 9292 3204
VIC Group Sales Directors Karen Clements (03) 9292 3202,
Sally Paterson (03) 9292 3217, Astrid White (03) 9292 3222
QLD, SA & WA Sales Director Rose Wegner (07) 3666 6903
Account Manager WA Louise Arnoldi (08) 9326 9806
Classieds Advertising Rebecca White 1300 139 305
Brand Strategy Director Dennis Michael (02) 8045 4661
Head of Sales and Strategy, Food Donna Hodges (02) 8045 4661
Brand Strategy Manager Kate Corbett (02) 8045 4737
Brand Strategy Coordinator Angela Apostolakis (02) 8045 4744
Advertising Creative Director Richard McAuliffe
Advertising Creative Manager Zoe Tack
Senior Art Director, Creative Services Vanessa Samuels
Production Director Mark Moes mark.moes@news.com.au
Production Manager Neridah Burke neridah.burke@news.com.au
Ad Production Coordinator Katie Nagy (02) 8045 4923;
katie.nagy@news.com.au
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EDITORIAL
Managing Editor Shannon Harley shannon.harley@news.com.au
Chief Subeditor/Features Writer Heidi Finnane heidi.nnane@news.com.au
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Events Manager Joanne Khawaja
Enquiries: Locked Bag 5030, Alexandria, NSW 2015, tel: (02) 8045 4909, email: delicious@newslifemedia.com.au.
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14 delicious.
ISSN 1448-4455
Chief Executive Ofcer Nicole Shefeld
Group Publisher, Food Fiona Nilsson
Commercial Director Sev Celik
Head of Commercial Management Catherine Burden
Director of Communications Sharyn Whitten
Marketing Director David Weisz
General Manager, Retail and Circulation Brett Willis
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@delicious
INSTA OF
THE MONTH
#deliciousmagazine
quacked it
Id never cooked duck
before, but I decided to give
Kylie Kwongs chilli-salt duck
breasts with lemon (February
15, p 54) a go. It was so crispy
and moreish, it is now my
new favourite recipe!
Judy James-Hulm
Send your emails to delicious@newslifemedia.com.au or write to us at Locked Bag 5030, Alexandria, NSW 2015.
delicious. reserves the right to edit reader letters.
love struck
Im taking
this berry &
rosewater trifle
cake (Dec 14/
Jan 15, p 68)
to a barbecue
tonight cant
wait for dessert!
@bake_in_the_suburbs
FOLLOW US...
facebook.com/
deliciousmagazine
@deliciousmagazine
@deliciousAU
I received my March
issue of delicious. and all
I can say is this issue is a
favourite already. Im going
to cook every single recipe.
Love, love, love it.
@whatsfordinnernat
red letter day
I cooked the February
cover recipe (goats cheese
tart with chia seed pastry and
beetroot, g & pomegranate
salad, Vallis Kitchen Diary,
p 88) on the weekend as part
of my red-themed dinner
for Valentines Day. Oh my
goodness, it was beyond
words! The tart was oozy
and luscious, and the crisp
marinated beetroot was
the perfect counterbalance.
Celeste Maddocks
GREEN POWER
Im very appreciative of Green Kitchen Stories haloumi vegie
burgers (February 15, Extract, p 136). They provided the most
delectable, affordable and easy meat-free Monday dish. I used
goats-cheese haloumi and served them in butter lettuce, and my
family were more than satised. Emma Hasking, via Facebook
EDS NOTE: Congratulations Emma! Youve won a Wsthof
Classic Ikon Cooks Knife, valued at $315, to make Monday night
cooking even easier. Call: 1800 099 012 for more details.
NEXTgen.
DINNER SERIES
Want to know which chefs will be inuencing the way we eat out in 2015? The delicious. Next Gen
dinner series spans the country, shining the light on hot new talent and restaurants in each state.
This month, join us in Queensland for lunch at Ben Devlins new pop-up diner, Boy & Bird.
@krillinontherun
WESTERN AUSTRALIA
@kelliejake
QUEENSLAND
SOUTH AUSTRALIA
@stewartwesson
MITCH ORR ACME
JAKE KELLIE ESTELLE
@moyle_david
STEWART WESSON
THE FLINDERS STREET PROJECT
NEW SOUTH WALES
VICTORIA
TASMANIA
DAVID MOYLE FRANKLIN
BEN DEVLIN
BOY & BIRD
@boy_and_bird
SETH JAMES
WILLS DOMAIN
@sjaychef
YOUR INVITATION.
Garden snacks with mutton
Smoked scallop with
roe and broth
Red cabbage heart,
wild boar and cheese
Autumn honey served
in bees wax and honeycomb
Tea infusion
and sweet treats
join us
or the Queensland leg of our Next-Gen tour of the country, look forward to
produce grown specically for this not-to-be-missed lunch and harvested a
few hours before being served on custom-made plateware. This is the nature of
Boy & Bird, a unique pop-up event concept launched by current Queensland
Young Chef of the Year, Ben Devlin (the Boy), along with his artistic
collaborator, Yen Trinh (the Bird). We love the energy that comes with pop-up
events. Their temporary nature makes them more exciting for guests and for
us creatively, says Ben. After three years helping to build Brisbane restaurant
Esquire to its three-chefs-hat status, Ben packed his knives to start his own
dining ventures, pairing the food he loves to cook with Yens creative vision.
We see design playing a big role in the feeling and experience of dining
from the booking system, to the architecture and shape of a spoon, says Yen.
And the menu? All courses are designed to showcase the connection between
the local environment and its produce. I cook with produce I can connect
with, to try and tell a story about our place, through avour, adds Ben.
@deliciousmagazine
@deliciousAU
@deliciousmagazine
WHERE Boy & Bird, Wandering
Cooks, 1 Fish Ln,
South Brisbane, Qld
WHEN
PRICE
12pm, Sunday, May 3
$100 for 4 courses with
matching wines from
La Petite Mort
BOOK
For online bookings, visit:
boyandbird.wordpress.com
deliciousdoes
delicious. 17
D
A
I IO
.W
at Lake House, Daylesford
utumn marks the harvest festival in Victorias beautiful Daylesford and
Macedon Ranges. To celebrate this most romantic change of season,
when woodsmoke scents the crisp evening air and quinces, pumpkins and
apples are being stockpiled to be turned into comforting dishes, youre invited
to join us for a delicious. weekend at Lake House. In April, Alla Wolf-Taskers
(pictured) luxe lakeside retreat will become the ultimate base for a weekend
of spectacular foodie experiences. The welcome party at Wombat Hill House,
Allas cafe in the nearby Botanic Gardens, kicks off proceedings and is your
chance to sample the best local beer and cider with burgers and more.
But make sure you leave room for the Long Table Lunches that delicious. food
director Valli Little will co-host with Alla at Lake Houses new Waterfront Pavilion
on Saturday and Sunday. The Regional Producers Day on Sunday is your chance
to mingle with award-winning producers over breakfast and live music, before
sampling the regions best at tastings and cooking demonstrations with Valli,
chef Nicky Reimer and former MasterChef nalist Alice Zaslavsky.
18 delicious.
FRIDAY, APRIL 24 Harvest Welcome Party
at Wombat Hill House, $65.
SATURDAY, APRIL 25 & SUNDAY, APRIL 26
delicious. Long Table Lunch at Lake House
with food director Valli Little, $125.
SUNDAY, APRIL 26 Breakfast with the
Producers, $40 (includes entry to Regional
Producers Day); Regional Producers Day, $12
(entry only) at Lake House. Lake House
Package (includes 2 nights accommodation,
tickets to selected events and 1 dinner in the
award-winning dining room) from $790 per
person. To book, visit: lakehouse.com.au
NEW CHROME
3
1. Mark Best will be among the star-studded line-up of chefs behind the stoves
at Fridays Westpac Premier International Degustation. 2. Troy Rhoades-Brown
is one of the Rising Star Chefs cooking at Berardos restaurant. 3. Alex Herbert
joins Martin Boetz on the new Real Farm Experience Food Trails. 4. Dan Hong will
be smokin at the American Cookout & BBQ by the River. 5. Colin Fassnidge
will be wielding the tongs at Saturdays Seventies Beach Party, BBQ & Clam
Bake. 6 & 7. Join Matt Moran for a Wild Food Dinner on the Beach, alongside
fellow Produce Awards judge David Moyle (7), of Franklin in Hobart. 8. Victor
Liong, of Melbournes Lee Ho Fook, will be spicing things up at the ever-popular
Audi Asian Food Trails on Thursday and Friday. 9. Watch Matt Preston
attempting to retain his Food Critics Cooking Competition title.
9
6
OUT & ABOUT.
essential NOOSA
In the Noosa International Food & Wine Festivals 12th year, Jim Berardo, its founder and
director, talks to delicious. about taking one of Australias top food festivals back to its roots.
ITS BEEN 12 YEARS since Jim Berardo and his partner, Greg
OBrien, set up a food and wine festival on the beach in Noosa,
attended by a handful of fellow restaurateurs and chefs,
including Stephanie Alexander. There are so many producers
behind the scenes, working themselves to death. There seemed
no better way of thanking them, says Jim. There were about
150 people that year, and only 100 actual punters, he laughs.
This year, some 300 contributors chefs from around the
country and overseas, winemakers, producers and food media
will gather for four days of feasting, tasting, learning and
discovering, with last years event attracting 33,000 visitors.
I think things are moving away from the celebrity chef idea,
so were putting the emphasis on up-and-coming talent, says
Jim. Therell be lots of young head chefs from top restaurants
the next generation and its them we want to promote.
Dining trends are changing, too, and this will be reected
across the board. Restaurants here and overseas are becoming
WORDS SALLY FELDMAN
The chefs this year are really
creative people, who are into
this new way of thinking about
ingredients and alternative eating.
all things to all people so they can be a cafe, a bar, a bistro,
and have a ne dining component, too, explains Jim. Look
at The Tippling Club in Singapore. Ryan Clift, a guest chef this
year, runs four different venues there and it works like a charm.
Still front of mind are the producers, not only the 40 or
so delicious. Produce Awards nalists and winners who will be
showing their wares, but the many local growers, shers and
farmers who supply all the guest chefs with their raw materials.
Wild and native foods are also on the agenda: Everything
from kangaroo and wild rabbit, to sea urchin, says Jim.
Weve even been looking at cane toads! The chefs this year
are really creative, imaginative people, who are into this new
way of thinking about ingredients and alternative eating.
For full info and bookings, visit: noosafoodandwine.com.au
FESTIVAL
HIGHLIGHTS
THURSDAY, MAY 14
s Sunshine Coast Food Trails:
De Brett Seafood Trail, $195;
Hinterland Trail, $195;
Audi Asian Food Trail, $205.
s Westpac Ruby Luncheon,
12pm, $135.
FRIDAY, MAY 15
s Asahi Super Dry Premium
BBQ Lunch on Noosa
Main Beach, 12pm, $135.
s Westpac Premier International
Degustation, 6.15pm, $495.
s Westpac Wild Food Dinner
on the Beach, 6.30pm, $195.
SATURDAY, MAY 16
s Show Day 1: cooking demos;
panel discussions; food critics
cooking competition and food
kiosks; wine and beer kiosks,
9am-7.30pm, from $40.
s delicious. Produce Awards
Shared Table Lunch, 12pm, $105.
s Seventies Beach Party, BBQ
& Clam Bake, 6.15pm, $195.
SUNDAY, MAY 17
s Champagne Breakfast on
the Beach, 9am, $125.
s Show Day 2, 9am-7.30pm,
from $40.
s Ilve Presents Australias
Best Home-Cooked Dish
Competition, 9am-11am.
s American Cookout & BBQ
by the River, 12pm, $105.
s Sunset Concert at the Lookout
and Dinner with the Rising Star
Chefs at Berardos, 4.30pm, $205.
delicious. 21
With cooler weather kicking in, were making the most of autumn
ingredients from breakfast through dinner. Seasonal-food hero
Mike McEnearney from Sydneys Kitchen by Mike shows us how.
RECIPES & STYLING MIKE MCENEARNEY
PHOTOGRAPHY BRETT STEVENS
WORDS LARA ZILIBOWITZ
delicious. 23
I love
pine mushrooms for their
earthy avour. Sear them quickly in
a hot pan to
24delicious.
caramelise.
HAND PICKED.
Roast pumpkin with maple syrup
and cinnamon. Opposite:
mushrooms on eggy bread.
In-season pumpkin is sweet, unctuous and richly avoured. I roast it
with the skin on and seeds intact to allow the full pumpkin avour to sing.
Pot-roasted spatchcock with saffron,
olive and quince. Opposite:
pomegranate & Aperol granita.
spatchcock with a little bit of liquid keeps it tender
and succulent. Its like roasting and steaming at the same time.
Pot-roasting
26delicious.
HAND PICKED.
Tart pomegranate and bitter
Aperol make this dessert like a
frozen negroni.
HAND PICKED.
SERVES 4
ROAST PUMPKIN WITH MAPLE
SYRUP AND CINNAMON
SERVES 4 AS A SIDE
50g unsalted butter
1 onion, nely chopped
5 garlic cloves, nely chopped
100ml port
100g pine mushrooms, thickly sliced
100g Swiss brown mushrooms,
thickly sliced
100g eld mushrooms, thickly sliced
100g oyster mushrooms, thickly sliced
100g enoki mushrooms,
ends removed, pulled apart
1/2 bunch tarragon, nely chopped
EGGY BREAD
200ml milk
1 tbs sherry
100g unsalted butter
4 x 1.5cm-thick slices brioche
4 eggs, lightly beaten
1/4 bunch at-leaf parsley,
leaves nely chopped
Melt butter in a pan over medium-low
heat. Add onion and garlic, and cook
for 2-3 minutes until softened but not
coloured. Increase heat to medium-high,
add the port, then cook for a further
1-2 minutes until reduced and syrupy. Add
pine, Swiss brown and eld mushrooms,
and cook for 1-2 minutes. Add oyster and
enoki mushrooms, and cook for a further
1-2 minutes until caramelised. Add the
tarragon, season and toss to combine.
Remove from heat. Cover and keep warm.
For the eggy bread, whisk milk and
sherry in a bowl with 1 tsp salt. Melt half
the butter in a large frypan over medium
heat until foaming. Working in batches,
soak brioche slices in milk mixture, then
carefully lift out and dip into beaten egg.
Add to pan and fry for 2 minutes each
side or until golden. Drain on paper towel.
Repeat with remaining butter, milk, egg
and bread.
Top the eggy bread with the
mushrooms, and pan juices, and
serve with chopped parsley.
28delicious.
1/2
Kent pumpkin (skin on, seeds intact),
cut into thick wedges, halved
lengthways
1 tbs sunower oil
1/4 tsp ground cinnamon
1/2 cup coconut yoghurt
(we used Co Yo)
1/2 bunch coriander,
leaves roughly chopped
MAPLE & CINNAMON DRESSING
1 tbs tamarind puree
2 tbs maple syrup
2 tbs light soy sauce
2 tsp ground cinnamon
1/2 cup (125ml) olive oil
Juice of 1 lime, plus extra wedges to serve
For the dressing, combine the tamarind
puree, maple syrup, soy sauce and
cinnamon in a bowl. Whisking constantly,
gradually add oil in a steady stream until
combined and emulsied. Add the lime
juice, season to taste and set aside.
Preheat oven to 220C. Place pumpkin,
skin-side down, on a baking tray. Drizzle
with sunower oil, scatter with cinnamon
and toss to combine. Season with salt,
then bake for 30-35 minutes until tender
and lightly charred. Transfer to a platter,
drizzle with dressing, dollop with coconut
yoghurt and scatter with coriander leaves.
Serve with lime wedges to squeeze over.
POT-ROASTED SPATCHCOCK WITH
SAFFRON, OLIVES AND QUINCE
SERVES 4
Pinch of saffron threads
2 tsp ras el hanout
(Moroccan spice mix)
1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil
1 onion, chopped
3 garlic cloves, peeled
1 tsp ground allspice
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
1/2
tsp sumac
11/2 cups (300g) red quinoa,
rinsed, drained
Juice of 1/2 lemon
4 x 500g spatchcocks
200g mixed olives
1 quince, peeled,
cored, quartered
50g wild rocket leaves
PRESERVED LEMON SALSA
1 preserved lemon, esh and white pith
discarded, skin nely chopped
2 spring onions,
nely chopped
100ml olive oil
1/2 bunch oregano,
leaves roughly chopped
1/4 bunch each coriander, mint and
at-leaf parsley, leaves roughly
chopped
For the preserved lemon salsa, combine
all the ingredients in a bowl and set aside.
Preheat the oven to 150C. Combine
saffron threads, ras el hanout and 1/2 cup
(125ml) water in a saucepan over high heat.
Bring to the boil, then remove from heat
and season. Set aside for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat 11/2 tbs oil in a
saucepan over medium heat. Cook the
onion and garlic for 3-4 minutes until
fragrant and transparent, then add the
allspice, cinnamon, sumac and quinoa,
and cook, stirring, for a further 1 minute.
Remove from heat, add the lemon juice,
and set aside to cool.
Spoon the quinoa mixture into the
cavities of the spatchcocks and tie the
legs together with kitchen string. Heat
remaining 11/2 tbs oil in a ameproof
casserole over medium heat. In batches,
sear the spatchcocks, turning, until deep
golden all over. Return spatchcocks,
breast-side up, to the casserole, pour
over the saffron mixture, then add the
olives and quince. Cover with the lid
and roast for 11/2 hours or until cooked
through and tender. Remove from the
oven and set aside for 15 minutes to rest.
Mushrooms on eggy bread: large white plate, best handmade ceramics. Roast pumpkin: large handpainted shallow bowl in
white and ink, best handmade ceramics. Spatchcock: small bowl Cafe au Lait bowl in white, and small pouring dish in white,
both best handmade ceramics; Falcon Enamelware 36cm oval roaster, Koskela. For stockist details, see Directory, p 159.
MUSHROOMS ON EGGY BREAD
To serve, carve spatchcocks and divide
among plates with the quinoa stufng.
Spoon over the pan juices and serve with
preserved lemon salsa.
After youve nished the spatchcock,
divide rocket among the plates to mop
up the juices and cleanse the palate.
POMEGRANATE &
APEROL GRANITA
SERVES 4
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Combine the sugar and 1 cup (250ml)
water in a saucepan over medium heat.
Cook for 1-2 minutes until the sugar
completely dissolves. Remove from heat
and chill sugar syrup before use.
Remove pomegranate seeds by cutting
the pomegranate in half and hitting the
rounded end with a wooden spoon over
a bowl so the seeds fall out. To remove
any remaining seeds, prise open the
fruit and remove them with your ngers.
Place the seeds in a sieve set over a
bowl and press down with your hands
to release the juice. Discard the seeds
left in the sieve.
Combine the Aperol, 1 cup (250ml)
fresh pomegranate juice and 1 cup
(250ml) sugar syrup in a shallow container
and place in the freezer for 2 hours or
until partially frozen. Remove from the
freezer and break up the crystals by
raking the surface with a fork. Return
to the freezer for 1 hour, then remove
and rake crystals again. Repeat this
process twice more, then store in the
freezer until ready to serve.
To make the Chantilly cream, whisk
cream and extra 1 tbs sugar in a bowl
to soft peaks. Chill until ready to use.
To serve, spoon the granita into
serving glasses and top with dollops
of Chantilly cream. >>
Whole pumpkins, with
their different shapes,
sizes and colours, can
provide a beautiful
autumn display on your
table for several weeks
before being turned into
dinner or dessert. And
when treated right, this
stalwart of the squash
family can be elevated to
superstar status: try them
deep-fried as chips;
steamed and blended
with chickpeas, cumin and
chilli akes as a dip; or baked into a breakfast loaf with cinnamon and nutmeg.
And when roasting, follow Mikes lead and leave the skin and seeds intact.
Prized in Europe and coveted by chefs around the country, these wild fungi
grow in woods and on heaths under pine trees after the rain. They have a
vibrant saffron-coloured cap, gills and stem, and vary from 5cm to 25cm in
diameter. Pan-fry with parsley, garlic and cream and serve with pappardelle
or slow-cook in casseroles to release their rich, umami avour.
In Australia, spatchcock refers to young chickens, weighing around 400g-600g
(called poussins in French). These baby birds are bred to be extra avourful
and meaty while small, and are the perfect single-serve portion. Try them
butteried and grilled on the barbecue with a peri-peri spice rub; or
roasted with marjoram, thyme, garlic and lemon.
Long appreciated in Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cuisines,
pomegranate adds tang and sweetness (and visual wow-factor) to salads,
stufngs and desserts. Australian varieties are available from autumn to late
winter: look for heavy fruit with bright skin and no wrinkles. Dont be put off
by the seemingly hard-to-access fruit the crimson jewels can be removed
easily by banging with the back of a spoon over a bowl, ready to be tossed
with honey-grilled haloumi or folded through slow-cooked lamb pilaf.
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delicious.
HAND PICKED.
Mike McEnearney in the physic
garden at Kitchen by Mike in
Sydneys Rosebery. Above:
wild pine mushrooms from
Flemington Markets.
Pur & SI
Not only is he a champion of market produce, but Mike McEnearney from Kitchen by Mike is
passionate about all-things homemade, including making bread and butter his bread and butter.
ike McEnearney is not your typical inner-city chef
he starts his day at 5am with a glass of homemade
kombucha or beetroot kvass (thats beetroot fermented
with salt for the uninitiated).
After years spent working his way up the ranks of top
London restaurants and Sydneys Rockpool, he turned his back
on foams, gels and white tablecloths to start Kitchen by Mike,
a neighbourhood canteen-style eatery that celebrates simple,
honest fare and champions seasonal ingredients. Our philosophy
is less is more. We dont over-complicate; we want the real
avours to shine, maintaining the integrity of the produce, he
says. And anyone who has ever tried Mikes sublimely simple
starter of baby radishes served with hand churned butter and
salt for dipping will concur.
The cafe menu varies daily, depending on whats ended up on his
shelves from his weekly market visit. We choose the produce rst
30delicious.
and then think how we can build a dish around it, he says. We
only buy ingredients when theyre ready, when avour is optimal,
and then we have a no-waste policy. What we dont serve that
day, well pickle and preserve to enjoy throughout the year.
Everything you see piled high on the cafe counter, from the
burnished sourdough, to the chutneys and cheeses accompanying
the seasonal roasts, salads and grains, has been made from scratch,
much of it grown from seedlings in the kitchen garden.
Mikes pride and joy is the restaurants physic garden. Its nothing
short of a photosynthesising medicine cabinet and greengrocer,
with thriving ora serving both culinary and medicinal purposes,
including oregano an antimicrobial digestive healer and
grapes. We run classes for making tonics, teas and topical lotions
for healing. The garden serves as an educational space for the
community, he says, and invites anyone who is interested to
wander through at their leisure. kitchenbymike.com.au
PRODUCE AWARDS.
MEET THE
Producers
One Sea Rottnest Island scallops won 2013 Producer of the Year,
and were quickly snapped up by top-hatted chef Guillaume Brahimi.
WHAT IS YOUR PRODUCT?
BIGGEST CHALLENGE?
Rottnest Island Scallops are a boutique
product harvested on a seasonally
available basis. They are conditioned
by the Leeuwin Current that ows across
the scallop beds just north of Rottnest
Island off Fremantle in Western Australia.
In the past two years, the effects of
a marine heatwave have been disastrous
for the shery. The rapid increase in
water temperatures wiped out the
opportunity to harvest scallops. This
event essentially shut down all our
operations for two years, and it is
only now in 2015 that we are seeing
recruitment taking place once again.
HOW HAS THE PRODUCT
EVOLVED OVER THE YEARS?
One Sea was founded on the principle
of supplying the freshest locally caught
seafood to the Fremantle community.
Within two years, the company had lifted
the prole of its scallops by air-freighting
product to the eastern seaboard on the
same day it was harvested allowing
it to reach chefs in Sydney and Melbourne,
as well as here in Perth.
WHAT IS THE FUTURE?
We have a lot of challenges ahead with
securing a balanced shing strategy that
delivers a consistent range of fresh local
seafood to consumers. The Australian
consumer needs a healthy choice of
traceable seafood and our goal is to
provide that option for the future.
I love the sweetness of Rottnest
Island scallops. All they need is
salt, pepper and to be sealed in
a pan with a little olive oil.
GUILLAUME BRAHIMI, NATIONAL JUDGE
Join the hunt! Nominate your favourite producers
now by visiting deliciousproduceawards.com.au
#PRODUCEAWARDS
32delicious.
Above: One Sea
directors Clayton,
Ian and Alex.
TA B L E TA L K
COMPILED BY HEIDI FINNANE
WORDS HEIDI FINNANE, ANNA FLANDERS, SHANNON HARLEY & SARAH LEWIS
Chocolate on your mind?
Head to newly opened MORK
CHOCOLATE BREW HOUSE
(above), a concept (or should
we say calorie) store in North
Melbourne where cacao-laced
drinks and bites make for a
decadent menu. Sydneys Surry
Hills welcomes design-luxe LIXIE
CHOCOLATERIE where the delicate
paper-wrapped bars include the
likes of milk chocolate studded with
hazelnuts and Hawaiian black salt.
The party-hard crew from
Cookie and Revolver have
ung open the doors to MAGIC
MOUNTAIN SALOON in Melbourne,
a multi-tasking bar and restaurant
serving knockout cocktails and ery
Thai fare until late. The Mountains
an early riser, too, with inventive
Asian breakfasts, and by that we
mean congee and curries (go on!).
South Yarras ENTRECOTE
is removing food envy from
the equation by offering one
main: steak frites, served until
midnight with salad and baguette.
The savvy team behind Sydneys
chic Japanese restaurant Toko
have opened TOKONOMA in
the CBD and its the date-night
destination youve been waiting for.
A discreet doorway in a laneway
behind Bridge Street leads to an
elegant Japanese den where the
likes of black cod with miso and
chocolate fondant with salted
sesame ice cream are shared over
glasses of Suntory Yamazaki whisky.
Perth Olympian Eamon Sullivan
has expanded his Fremantle
portfolio with MAY STREET
LARDER launching as the East Freo
sister to his beachside Bib & Tucker.
Open for breakfast and lunch with
a focus on in-house fermented,
pickled, cured and preserved bites.
Drinks? Theres house-made soda
and kombucha on tap.
3
4
Harrys Bar
& Dining
Coconut chia pudding, quinoa
fritters with fattoush, cured ocean
trout with fennel and grapefruit,
housemade almond milk macchiatos
this is not your average corner
store fare, and Bondi institution
Harrys Espresso Bar is no longer
your average corner store after
being reincarnated as Harrys Bar
& Dining. Its sleek, its chic and
the breakfast, lunch and dinner
(Thurs-Sat) menus from ex-Tilbury
chef Bryan OCallaghan are
supercharged with superfoods.
insider NEWS
Hot tables, lust-have products, the latest news, books & more.
TRENDING NOW
FOOD FESTIVALS
Edited by Heidi Finnane:
@runsandheids
@heidifinnane
delicious. 35
INSIDER.
of the best
ALL AROUND THE
COUNTRY, DOUGHNUTS
ARE ALL GROWN UP.
want NEED
Brisbanes NODO DONUTS are
organic and gluten-free, so you can
go back for seconds. Were loving the
raspberry, triple coconut and dark
chocolate option. nodo.com.au
Take a lead from Sydney chef and My Kitchen Rules judge Colin Fassnidge, who swears by serving
his pot-roasted chicken straight from the table in his LE CREUSET cast-iron pot. The new Palm range
(pictured) combines on-trend lush botanical tones with Le Creusets classic style, or add a little
lustre to your dinner with the new 3-ply Stainless Steel range, which has a metallic silver nish.
FINDERS KEEPERS
Im having a great time pairing whisky
with chocolates.The chocolate acts as a
support, and with remarkably similar
flavour notes. WILLIE HARCOURT-COOZE
who goes all out, even making
his own sprinkles.
12 Edward St, Brunswick, Vic
NEW IN
Subscribe to Australian-owned
GROUNDED PODS for
monthly deliveries of locally
The Rubin 2.5L casserole
from COUNTRY ROAD
combines form and
function with its matte
slate nish. $49.95.
countryroad.com.au
US expat Janell Smith is based in
NSW and makes her WHOA NELLY
glazed, baked doughnuts to order.
woahnellybakes@gmail.com
OUTSIDE
THE BOX
AUX ANYSETIERS DU ROY Mini
Milk Chocolate Fondue, $22.95,
essentialingredient.com.au;
HOT CHOCCY Orange Choccy
Powder, $12.95 (150g),
hotchoccy.com.au.
YOUNG AT
HEART
SIMON JOHNSON French
Candied Eggs, $17.95 (210g),
simonjohnson.com;
BURCH & PURCHESE
Milk Chocolate Easter Egg
Lollipop, $5.50 each,
burchandpurchese.com.
ALT-CHOC
LADUREE Napoleon Box of
Six Macarons (Chocolate,
Chocolate Marshmallow &
Vanilla), $26, laduree.com;
LOVING EARTH Luvju goji,
chia & spirulina $2.95 (35g),
lovingearth.com.au.
SOPHISTICATE
WILLIES CACAO Lime Chilli
Caramel Black Pearls, $14.30 (150g),
coles.com.au; MONSIEUR TRUFFE,
Sardines in a Box, $16.50 (90g),
monsieurtruffechocolate.com; KOKO
BLACK Milk Egg with Tasmanian
Leatherwood Honeycomb, $20
(180g), kokoblack.com.
PICK
N
MIX
From Easter egg purists to sugar-free
ends, we have the perfect gift for every
type of chocolate adrenaline junkie.
THE
CLASSICS
LUXOCOLAT Easter Eggs,
$15.75 (165g), rawmaterials.com.
au; HAIGHS CHOCOLATES Large
Dark Egg with Dark Chocolate
Assortment, $54.30,
haighschocolates.com.au;
LINDT Gold Bunny, $5.80
(100g), lindt.com.au.
INSIDER.
5
2
BEAN there
10
Chocolate is the ultimate indulgence, whether its a square
of 70 per cent dark laced with sea salt, or a rich scented body
wash. Just dont be tempted to eat all of these products!
STYLING MEGAN MORTON
PHOTOGRAPHY JASON BUSCH
1. Bobbi Brown Holiday 14 shimmerbrick, $15 (large), honeyhousenaturals.com. 2. DB Cosmetics
natural ground minerals bronzer, $19.99, dbcosmetics.com.au. 3. The Little Alchemist cacao & banana
face glow, $65 (100ml), thelittlealchemist.com.au. 4. Willies Cacao Peruvian gold, $4.40 (50g),
coles.com.au. 5. Willies Cacao lime chilli caramel black pearls, $14.30 (150g), coles.com.au. 6. Willies
Cacao sea salt caramel black pearls, $14.30 (150g), coles.com.au. 7. Bare Blends dark cacao & kakadu
plum native whey protein isolate, $12 (350g), bareblends.com.au. 8 & 9. Loving Earth coconut
chocolate butter, $8.95 (175g), lovingearth.net. 10. Loving Earth raw organic cacao nibs, $12.90 (250g),
lovingearth.net. 11. Grace Wood Design Studio cosy cup with porcelain cup, felt cosy and timber
base, $139, gracewooddesigns.com. 12. Mauviel copper sugar pot, $200, williams-sonoma.com.au.
13 & 16. Haighs Chocolates dark honeycomb block, $10.50 (200g), haighschocolates.com.au.
14. Sephora Bubble Bath & Shower Gel in chocolate, $15 (260ml), sephoraaus.com.au.
15. Patron XO Cafe Dark Cocoa, $85 (750ml), danmurphys.com.au.
16
11
15
14
12
13
38delicious.
URBAN
ATTITUDE
ppy
a
h
FR O M t h e
FRESH
food PEO PLE
Only at Woolworths
Entertain with our
award winning Gold
range this Easter
Fresh Meat Category
LD MEDAL
GO
E MED
ONZ
AL
BR
2 014
2 014
Premium Deli Category
Try our award-winning range for yourself
Gold Smoked Wagyu Beef. Gold Angus Beef Burger with Caramelised Onion. Gold Burrata Cheese. Gold Camembert
Cheese & Sauteed Onion Chicken Sausages, Gold Italian Style Pork & Beef Sausages, Gold Pork Chorizo Sausages.
Gold Trufe Salami. Gold Banoffee Dessert Sauce. Gold Salted Caramel Ice Cream. Gold Fresh Tasmanian Smoked Salmon.
HEALTHY CERAMIC NON-STICK
HOTSPOT.
WORDS ANNA FLANDERS
RECIPE PROPELLER
FOOD PHOTOGRAPHY JEREMY SIMONS
STYLING DAVID MORGAN
propeller
WHERE 222 Queen Victoria
St, North Fremantle, WA;
(08) 9335 9366.
WHO Siobhan Blumann and
Hamish Fleming (of Flipside,
Mrs Brown, Dominion
League and The Mechanics
Institute), Harry and Emma
Bray, and head chef Kurt
Sampson (ex-Pata Negra).
THE BUZZ Industrial port
and beachside meet on
a corner block in this
fast-emerging precinct.
A very Freo mural is the
backdrop at this revamped
bus garage with shipping
container add-on.
THE MENU Middle Eastern
leanings served up grazing
style. Whatever you do,
throw a pizza in the order.
THE DRINKS Sub-100 list
with a heavy pour of
Australian wines and savvy
selection from Italy, Spain
and Portugal. Small list of
craft beers (two on tap).
MUST-EAT Quail pie with
light pastry, cinnamon
and fried almonds.
full steam AHEAD
The folk behind some of WAs best small bars and burger joints add
their sophisticated urban spin to North Fremantle with Propeller.
PRAWN & POTATO
TORTILLA WITH AIOLI
SERVES 4
2 potatoes (400g), peeled,
cut into 2cm pieces
8 eggs, lightly beaten
1/2 cup (125ml) pure (thin) cream
100g manchego cheese, grated
1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil
1 onion, halved, thinly sliced
1 tsp smoked paprika (pimenton)
3 garlic cloves, crushed
12 green prawns, peeled,
deveined, roughly chopped
1 roasted red capsicum, thinly sliced
2 tbs chopped at-leaf parsley leaves
1/3 cup (75g) whole-egg mayonnaise
Finely grated zest and juice of 1/2 lemon
Preheat the oven to 180C.
Place potato in a pan of cold salted
water and bring to the boil over high heat,
then cook for 8-10 minutes until just
tender. Drain and set aside.
Combine eggs, cream and cheese
in a large bowl and season. Set aside.
Heat the oil in a 22cm-deep ovenproof
frypan over medium heat. Add onion and
cook for 5-6 minutes until softened, then
add paprika and half the garlic. Cook for
a further 1 minute or until fragrant. Add
potato to the frypan and cook, turning,
for 2-3 minutes until golden. Add prawn
and cook for 1-2 minutes until almost
cooked. Scatter capsicum and parsley
over potato mixture, then carefully pour
egg mixture over. Reduce heat to very low
and cook the tortilla for 10-12 minutes,
then transfer to the oven and cook for
5-6 minutes until light golden and set.
Meanwhile, combine mayonnaise, lemon
zest and juice and remaining garlic in a
small bowl. Season and set aside.
Slide tortilla out onto a board and cut into
wedges. Serve warm or chilled with aioli.
delicious. 43
HOTSPOT.
ROASTED T-BONE WITH ONION
BUTTER AND SALT-BAKED CARROTS
SERVES 2
1/3 cup (80ml) olive oil
200g softened unsalted butter
4 eschalots, thinly sliced
2 x 450g thick T-bone steaks
3 thyme sprigs
3 unpeeled garlic cloves
SALT-BAKED CARROTS
3 cups (450g) plain our,
plus extra to dust
120g ne sea salt
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon
4 thyme sprigs, leaves chopped
2 rosemary sprigs, leaves chopped
3 eggs, lightly beaten
1 bunch baby (Dutch) carrots,
trimmed
Heat 2 tbs oil and 25g butter in a frypan
over medium-low heat. Cook eschalot,
stirring occasionally, for 15-20 minutes until
caramelised. Cool, then combine with a
further 125g butter in a bowl. Form into a
44delicious.
log on a sheet of plastic wrap, roll up and
twist ends to secure. Chill until needed.
For salt crust, combine our, salt, zest,
herbs, two-thirds of the egg and 150ml
water in the bowl of an electric mixer tted
with a dough hook. Knead on low speed
for 6-8 minutes until smooth. Enclose in
plastic wrap and chill for 3 hours.
Preheat oven to 180C. Roll out dough
on a oured surface to a 5mm-thick
rectangle slightly wider than the carrots.
Place carrots at one end, then roll up to
enclose. Seal edges and trim pastry. Place,
seam-side down, on a baking paper-lined
baking tray. Brush with remaining egg.
Bake for 30 minutes, then set aside.
Heat a large frypan over high heat until
smoking. Season steaks, drizzle with
remaining 2 tbs oil, then cook for 3 minutes
each side. Add thyme, garlic and remaining
50g butter to the pan and baste steaks with
butter mixture. Transfer steaks to a baking
tray and pour over butter mixture. Roast
for 10-15 minutes for medium. Rest, loosely
covered with foil, for 5 minutes. Top steaks
with slices of onion butter and crack open
the salt-crusted carrots to serve.
WHO Chef/owner
Scott Pickett with head
chef Aaron Brodie and
(delicious. Next Gen)
young-gun chef Jake Kellie.
THE BUZZ One-hat Estelle is
now twice as enticing, with
the original morphing into
this casual eatery. It will be
soon joined by neighbouring
Estelle by Scott Pickett (ESP),
a rened diner offering an
eight-course tasting menu.
THE MENU A box-ticking
menu spans charcuterie and
snacks of crackling and
croquettes, textural salads,
plus mains of tuna nicoise or
steak, plus Estelles original
ve-course chefs menu.
THE DRINKS Expect lesser
known local gems alongside
standout imports, with a
handful by the glass.
MUST-EAT The roasted
T-bone. To nish, a sinful
assembly of chocolate,
honeycomb and gold leaf.
RECIPE JAKE KELLIE
A much-loved hatted Melbourne restaurant segues into the casual
Estelle Bistro, with the added bonus of a ne-diner next door.
estelle bistro
WHERE 243 High St,
Northcote, Vic;
(03) 9489 4609.
WORDS SARAH LEWIS
DOUBLE delight
BALANCING ACT.
Which ingredients pack a powerful antioxidant punch? Kate Skinner looks beyond
the usual suspects to nd free-radical ghters where youd least expect them.
Follow Kate:
nutritionbynature.com.au
nutritionbynature
GNOCCHI WITH MISO BUTTER PRAWNS
SERVES 4
Follow Shannon:
@misspamplemousse
PHOTOGRAPHY JEREMY SIMONS
RECIPE SHANNON HARLEY
Preheat oven to 150C. Place potatoes in a large
saucepan of cold water. Bring to the boil over high
heat, then simmer for 30 minutes or until tender.
Drain, then, when just cool enough to handle,
peel. While still warm, mash, then pass through
a potato ricer or ne sieve into a large bowl. Cool.
Place miso, vinegar and mirin in a small pan over
low heat, stirring for 1 minute or until combined.
Add 80g butter, 2 pieces at a time, stirring until
smooth. Stir in lime juice to taste. Keep warm.
Toss kale with oil and seeds. Divide between
2 baking trays. Bake for 20 minutes or until crisp.
Using a fork, stir egg into cooled potato, then
sift over our. Using damp hands, combine to form
a sticky dough. Divide into 6 portions and roll each
on a lightly oured surface to a 30cm-long log.
Flatten slightly, then cut into 6 pieces and cook in
a large pan of boiling water for 2 minutes or until
they rise to the surface. Drain. Melt remaining 20g
butter in a large frypan over medium-high heat. In
batches, cook gnocchi for 1 minute each side or
until golden. Divide among 4 plates.
Return pan to heat and cook prawns for 1 minute
each side or until just cooked. Pour miso butter over
prawns and cook for 1 minute or until caramelised.
Top gnocchi with prawn mixture and kale, scatter
with cress, if using, and serve with lime.
STYLING VIVIEN WALSH
1kg desiree potatoes, skin on
2 tbs each white miso paste, rice vinegar and mirin
100g unsalted butter, chopped
Juice of 1 lime, plus extra wedges to serve
1/2 bunch purple kale, stalks removed
1 tbs olive oil
2 tbs sesame seeds
1 egg
12 /3 cups (250g) plain our, plus extra to dust
1kg green prawns, peeled
(heads and tails intact), deveined
Micro cress (optional), to serve
WORDS KATE SKINNER
IF ALL THE ANTIOXIDANT-RICH foods were cast
in a Broadway production, then no doubt brilliant berries
would razzle-dazzle us and curly kale would steal the show.
But what about those unsung heroes the understudies,
supporting cast and crew? You might not see their names in lights,
but the credentials are well and truly there. Such is the case with
antioxidant superfoods foods that supply us with the nutrients needed
to mop up excess free radicals and slow the damaging effects of things
like stress, smoking, alcohol, pollution and even exercise. You only have
to give the quiet achievers their chance in the limelight to discover
a wealth of hidden antioxidants where youd never think to look.
In some quarters, it seems to be a major faux pas to be caught with a
potato on your plate, but the pride of Idaho has much to boast about in
the way of health. The spud ranks as one of our top sources of vitamin C,
packing a heftier punch than oranges or wild blueberries per serve.
Whats more, the total antioxidant content of potatoes rivals that of
broccoli, spinach and even green tea take that, tater haters!
Oh coffee, how do we love thee? Coffees reputation for antioxidants
isnt unknown, but let me assure you these arent just feeble claims
made to justify a raging caffeine addiction. In America, coffee was
found to be the leading source of dietary antioxidants, contributing
more than fruits and vegetables combined.
The health and beauty industries are jostling to tell us about the latest
antioxidant star, coenzyme Q10, or CoQ10 for short. Its been linked
to everything from ghting disease and supporting heart health, to
improving athletic performance and reversing the visible signs of
ageing. Liver and kidney mightnt have the same selling power as
a LOreal slogan, but the truth is that offal meats such as liver, heart
and kidney are a richer source of CoQ10 than any facial lotion or vital
green. Beautiful from the innards-out, perhaps?
It also appears that a bulb of garlic may ward off more than just
vampires the antioxidant group of phenolics found in garlic may
protect against free-radical damage. Interestingly, older sprouting
specimens when those little green shoots appear from the bulb
appear to have a greater antioxidant capacity than young garlic,
so dont be too quick to assume that older bulbs are past their prime.
Seafood always appears near to the top in the health charts but
shellsh in particular should be singled out for their antioxidant
potential. While not technically classied as antioxidants on their own,
the essential minerals zinc and selenium found in oysters, mussels,
clams and prawns are referred to as nutrient antioxidents. Theyre
required for the activity of many antioxidants in the body and thereby
have an antioxidant effect. Of course, fresh seafood is best.
delicious. 47
Large white plate: 'Camargue' plate, Marie Helene Clauzon. For stockist details, see Directory, p 159.
IM LOVING.
I
...
EASTER EATING
Chocolate may be top of mind, but dont just gorge on eggs! Its time to feast on
buns, lamb and even guinea pig, says Matt Preston. Just dont mention bunnies.
EASTER BEER
Crown Lager has long been known as Melbournes
Christmas beer, due to its festive gold packaging and
celebratory pricing, but in Ayacucho (yes, were back in Peru,
in a city so in love with Easter it has 33 churches one for
each of the years of Christs life before he endured that rst
not-for-him-very-Good Friday), they actually
brew an Easter beer called chicha, made from
fermented maize. In Denmark, they make their
own paskebryg or Easter brew.
I have to talk about the joy of
hot cross buns... no chore, as a
toasted HCB is the best excuse
ever invented to eat butter.
THE CADBURYS CREME EGG (CCE)
If there were a scale for sweetness, then the CCE would
be up the top alongside Carrie Bickmores smile, but this
is also about the only egg you can put in a microwave and drop
from a height onto ice cream for a timely Easter treat.
HOT CROSS BUNS (HCB)
The Carob Police have excised my negative comments
about Carob Bilbys that were my third point. Instead,
I have to talk about the joy of hot cross buns, which is no chore,
as a toasted HCB is the best excuse to eat butter ever invented.
BTW, its not a hot cross bun if it has chocolate in it or is
avoured with some quirky combo like coffee and barberry.
48delicious.
GREEN FOOD
Long before the wheatgrass shot, Germans
associated Easter with going green at the
dinner table. Grndonnerstag is their version
of Maundy Thursday, which marks the apostles
Last Supper. Not sure why Germans think only green food
was eaten then. Chervil soup would be traditional, but a green
smoothie would sufce.
THE EGG
It wasnt just fertility that pagans celebrated during their
Easter period, but also the end of winter and return or
should that be the resurrection of the sun. For these reasons,
eggs have always been in-eggs-tricably linked to Easter eating,
such as the boiled red-dyed eggs that serve as decoration on
tsoureki (Greek Easter bread). The French town of Haux takes
this egg obsession further by making an omelette with more
than 5000 eggs on Easter Monday to feed over 1000 people.
STYLING KIRSTEN WILSON
ANYTHING CHOCOLATE
Some of the things I love about Easter are obvious: the joy
on childrens faces during the egg hunt; cheap chocolate; a
discussion on the sartorial style of the Elegant Rabbit. But they
pale in comparison to my other 11 true Easter loves. And I should
note, curmudgeonly old bugger that I am, that Easter hasnt
been the same since the chocolates hidden in the egg came
packed on the side. Whod put lollies on the outside of a piata?
THE EASTER BUNNY
With traditions both Christian and pagan built around
Easter being the time of rebirth and fertility, its no surprise
that the most fecund of vermin, the rabbit, was a big part of
pagan Easter and is still there in advertisings Disney-ed Easter.
While I shrink at serving bunny braised with bacon due to the
tender sensibilities of my children, perhaps we could introduce
a dish inspired by one of the 12 traditional Easter dishes in the
Peruvian city of Cusco? Guinea pig stew or chiriuchu.
WORDS & RECIPE MATT PRESTON PHOTOGRAPHY BRETT STEVENS
WE HAVE 12 DAYS of Christmas so why dont we have
12 days of Easter? It seems so unfair that this most foodie of
religious festivals is over in just ve days especially when there
are so many delicious things associated with this time of year.
Coming after a long winter of deprivation, or 40 days of fasting,
thats no surprise, so heres my pick of the 12 best Easter eats.
Peters revenge or pollo tinto
(red wine & chocolate chicken)
IM LOVING.
Talking about tsoureki gets me thinking about all those
incredible Easter bakes. Were familiar with hot cross
buns, but what about simnel cake, Spanish mona de Pascua
or Croatian pinca? All are worth exploring, but my Easter
favourites are a braided cardamom-scented sweet milk bread
called pulla from Finland, and Mexican capirotada a bread
and butter pudding where every ingredient rather macabrely
references the Christian crucixion story, be it cloves for nails
or cinnamon quills for the wood of the cross.
SPRING CLEANING AND CAKE
Interestingly, in Scandinavia and other parts of northern
Europe, Easter Thursday is associated with cleaning.
The day is called shere or clean Thursday, or Skrtorsdag (skar
translates as wash). The moral of this story is that spring cleaning
has a history inextricably linked with a slice of Easter cake.
10
PASSOVER
Religion is a good place to look for inspiration
culinary that is and the Jewish faith is no different.
The traditional Seder plate served during Pesach is full of food
symbolic of the Jewish peoples ight from Egyptian slavery.
Roast lamb shank, bitter herbs like endive, horseradish or
cos lettuce, a vegetable, a wine paste and hard-boiled eggs
are also a ne basis for a great, and very symbolic, dish.
11
LAMB
While wed all struggle to eat rabbit at Easter, there
seems to be no qualms about eating the symbol of the
leader of the Christian church, the lamb. Anyone whos visited
one of our Greek precincts at this time of year will know by
the procession of old blokes heaving lamb carcasses out of
butchers, that lamb is very much a Greek Easter thing. Given
a choice of traditional dishes, bring me arni me dendrolivano
(lamb cooked over rosemary) rather than magiritsa I nd
minced lambs innards soup clashes with all those creme eggs.
12
SWEET REVENGE
For the Easter dish I love best, Ive drawn on the hours
spent in churches enduring the kneeling nightmare that
is the Stations of the Cross. I always wondered what Peter was
thinking every time that cock crowed, so for him I thought Id pop
that pesky bird in a pot as his revenge. Ive enhanced Frances
best rooster dish, coq au vin, with a further Easter touch. The
red wine sauces of Spain and southern Italy are sometimes
enriched with a little bitter chocolate often in place of the
more traditional blood which seems suitably Easter. Id love to
call this choc-o-vin, but thats not very appetising. Instead, enjoy
Peters revenge or pollo tinto (red wine and chocolate chicken).
Follow Matt:
50delicious.
@mattscravat
@mattscravat
PETERS REVENGE OR POLLO TINTO
(RED WINE & CHOCOLATE CHICKEN)
SERVES 4-6
50g unsalted butter
2 tbs olive oil
3 x 5mm-thick slices speck, chopped
2 celery stalks, nely chopped
16 whole eschalots
200g button mushrooms
4 garlic cloves, nely chopped
1.8kg whole chicken, jointed into 8 pieces
2 tbs plain our
2 tbs tomato paste
3 cups (750ml) red wine
2 bay leaves
2 oregano sprigs, plus extra to serve
1/2 bunch at-leaf parsley, leaves chopped,
stalks reserved
2 cups (500ml) chicken stock
6 allspice berries
2 each whole cloves and cinnamon quills
1 tsp cumin seeds
20g dark (70%) chocolate, grated
Buttered steamed brown rice, to serve
Preheat oven to 180C. Place half the butter
and oil in a casserole over medium heat. Cook
speck, celery and eschalots for 3-4 minutes
until softened. Add mushrooms and garlic,
and cook, stirring, for 2-3 minutes until
fragrant. Remove from pan and set aside.
Return casserole to medium heat with
remaining 25g butter and 1 tbs oil. Season
chicken with salt and cook, in 2 batches,
turning, for 6-8 minutes until golden. Remove
from pan and set aside. Return all chicken to
pan. Sprinkle with our and cook, stirring, for
2 minutes or until browned. Add tomato paste
and cook for a further 1 minute, then add wine,
scraping the bottom of the pan. Tie together
bay, oregano and reserved parsley stalks to
make a bouquet garni and add to pan with
stock and spices. Bring to the boil, then
cover with a lid. Transfer to oven and cook for
50 minutes or until tender. Strain chicken and
vegetables and set aside, discarding cinnamon
and bouquet garni. Return sauce to medium
heat and bring to a simmer. Cook for 5 minutes
or until slightly reduced and thickened, then
whisk in chocolate. Pour sauce over chicken
and scatter with extra oregano. Serve with
buttered brown rice.
W
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t TALK
With aster on the horizon and chocolate on our minds (if were honest,
thats a 24/7 obsession), Mike Bennie nds the perfect matches.
52delicious.
2013 CAILLARD SHIRAZ, $50
While traditional Barossa Valley
shiraz can be full-bodied, bold
and often have higher alcohol
levels, savvy producers, like
Caillard, make wines of great
elegance, while showing their
warmer vineyard origins. The
bouquet is all forest berries and
spice, and goes superbly with
choc covered nuts and raisins.
1995 CHAMPAGNE
CHARLES HEIDSIECK BLANC
DES MILLENAIRES, $320
Charles Heidsieck draws on
a wealth of older and younger
wines to blend and create this
hedonistic agship. With its
perfume of brioche and nougat
and texture like nely whipped
foam, it would make the perfect
foil for a ne chocolate mousse.
2014 CHARLES STURT
MOSCATO, $15
Moscato is awesome. Instead
of an intense sticky wine, why
not try this gently zzy sweet
wine thats light in alcohol
and goes with just about any
dessert. This one is produced
by students at Charles Sturt
University, so drinking it helps a
new generation of winemakers.
2014 KALLESKE
ZEITGEIST, $26
Zeitgeist likely refers to a vogue
in lo- winemaking practices,
resulting in purer expressions of
fruit. This shiraz is fermented
naturally, with no preservatives
added, making it a bright, juicy,
wildly perfumed sweet-sour red.
Try chilled with something fun,
such as a Cherry Ripe.
YOUNGS LUXURY DOUBLE
CHOCOLATE STOUT, $7
Its a little mind-bending that
a beer could be made with real
chocolate, but for Youngs, a UK
brewery, its a no-brainer. The
beer still retains great freshness,
even with its dark colour, rich
choc-malt hops character and
gently sweet personality. An
ideal match with milk chocolate.
Choc & awe
The intense fortified muscat wines
of Rutherglen in northern Victoria
are true icons of the Australian wine
scene. Often made by blending wines
matured in the barrel up to and
beyond 100 years, their rich, intensely
flavoured potency seems to have a
neat synergy with chocolate, which
can be notoriously hard to match.
Says David Morris, fifth-generation
winemaker of famed Morris Wines:
Muscat is almost the lazy persons
dessert. A block of chocolate, a bottle
of muscat and away you go.
Rutherglen muscat is classified into
Rutherglen (aged three to five years),
Classic (six to 10), Grand (11 to 20)
and Rare (a minimum of 20).
When I think of the Rutherglen,
I immediately go to chocolate pairings
like rocky road and Turkish delight
not quite the single-origin of
connoisseurs, but a fun pairing.
Classic wines show some of
muscats typical spice and dried-fruit
characters. This is your zone for milk
chocolate, or 50 to 60 per cent dark,
says David. That hit of spice goes
well with nut-filled chocolate, too.
Grand muscats are complex and
intense, reminiscent of liquefied
Christmas pudding, according to
David. So its about now you should
head for a higher cocoa percentage.
At the top of the scale, Rare is
bottled in ultra-small batches, and
is the prized jewel of winemakers.
Its often seasoned with wines aged
for more than 100 years, says David.
These are breathtakingly complex and
decadent wines, so go for a chocolate
match of 85 per cent or thereabouts.
Follow Mike:
@mikerism101
ILLUSTRATION MAYA BEUS/THE ILLUSTRATION ROOM
BELGROVE DISTILLERY
PEATED RYE WHISKY, $230
Sustainable whisky? You bet.
Belgrove built the still, grows
the grain, uses bio-diesel and
harvests its own water from the
roof. This wonderfully complex
peated rye whisky all smoke,
caramel and spice is great on
its own, but add very dark
chocolate for a brilliant match.
Our specially grown Australian popping corn is
COATED and BAKED to seal in the crunch. Its then seasoned
with Gourmet ingredients for a delicious avour sensation
youve never tasted popcorn like this.
INNOVATORS.
smells like
BEAN SPIRIT
a man so tall youd expect him to be banned beneath regular
ight paths takes me into the storeroom to lug 30kg bags
of green beans to pour into the roaster once it reaches 185C.
Once the beans are added, the core temperature drops until it
reaches a turning point, when the temperature starts to rise
again to reach its goal (198-208C depending on the roast)
12 minutes later. This stage is known as rst crack (the sound
of cracking beans is reminiscent of popping corn). Lighter
roasts are released near rst crack to retain their oral, fruity
notes. Longer roasts continue for up to two minutes to aid that
chocolate-toffee espresso embrace. The beans are then cooled
over a giant fan. Samples are placed on a petri dish over lasers
to calculate the colour and ensure it has hit its requirements.
Next, Jacob and Tommy
take me through the
cupping ritual. No, not
a naked initiation; rather,
each roast is tasted to
ensure its integrity. Some
6g of ground coffee per
100ml of boiled water is
steeped for four minutes
to allow it to open up.
They stir, spoon out grit,
swirl and spit to pinpoint the adjustments required.
Coffee is such a volatile product. The moment its roasted
it starts to oxidise and, in truth, the beans have an optimum
drinking life span of three weeks. But what about ground
coffee? Three minutes, says Ben, Thats all youve got.
Coffee is quite complex, too. There are so many variables for a
measly $3.50. So, next time you contemplate the universe over
a cup, savour it. Its taken more than 40 hands, from all over
the world, to reach your lips. Thats quite a wake-up call.
Coffee is quite complex, too. There are so
many variables for a measly $3.50. So, next
time you contemplate the universe over a
cup, savour it. Its taken more than 40 hands,
from all over the world, to reach your lips.
Coffee is the second most sought-after traded commodity
in the world after crude oil and while specialty coffee accounts
for about 10 per cent of the global market, in Australia, its
much higher, thanks to the maturity of our coffee culture.
Five Senses uses up to seven single-origin green beans at
any given time the core sourced directly, at a higher price,
from micro-lots in Kenya, Ethiopia, Indonesia and elsewhere.
We deal face to face and that trust ensures quality, says Ben.
When we arrive, a crew of bleary-eyed bean-o-holics are
waiting. Shaun, a musician who left record pressing to roast
beans, runs through the days roasts. Meanwhile, Jordan
54delicious.
Follow Anthony:
@huckstergram
@anthuckstep
PHOTOGRAPHY PETRINA TINSLAY
of Five Senses Coffee. Sorry, what? I dont know about
you, but as a creature of the night, I love to howl at the moon.
Sure, I may look more like a middle-aged Winnie the Pooh than
a werewolf, but theres still more chance of me getting into bed
at 5am than getting out of it. Nevertheless, if youre going to
rise in the small hours, a brewed awakening is pretty good bait.
The plan is to undertake a crash course in coffee roasting at
the Cheltenham-based roaster. Coffee is, after all, the fuel that
starts our engines. Not only that, it has become an integral
part of our social construct: how we take it, where we drink it
and who makes it. We have only ourselves to blame for making
those beardy baristas the poster boys of our obsession.
STYLING VIVIEN WALSH
This month, we hauled culinary detective Anthony Huckstep out of bed for
an early-morning date with specialty Victoria-based coffee roasters, Five Senses.
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delicious. 59
AUTUMN ENTERTAINING.
SEASONS fall
As the days soften into autumn, embrace the new season with Valli Littles menu,
from heartwarming cauliower soufes to a rich red wine and plum cobbler.
RECIPES VALLI LITTLE
60delicious.
PHOTOGRAPHY JEREMY SIMONS
STYLING DAVID MORGAN
Parsnip skordalia with wild
mushrooms. Opposite:
g, prosciutto & radicchio
salad (recipes p 66).
TWICE-BAKED
CAULIFLOWER SOUFFLES
MAKES 4
These twice-baked soufes can be made
a day in advance, making them perfect
for entertaining or for a simple lunch.
Serve them with a bitter-leaf salad to cut
through the richness of the gruyere.
Autumn is my favourite time of year in
Australia, as bright sunshine is often followed
by cooler nights spent indoors, when our
thoughts naturally turn to slightly heartier,
warming dishes. I also love the autumn
bounty. Along with some of the last fruits
of summer, such as figs and all manner of
plums, root vegetables like celeriac and
parsnips are starting to appear, as well as
new-season apples and pears. The cooler
weather also means the anticipation of the
wild mushroom season. I cant wait to pop
them in a pan with some garlic and butter.
These recipes are some of my favourites,
using the best of the seasons harvest. Enjoy.
62delicious.
Preheat the oven to 180C and grease
four 1-cup (250ml) ramekins.
Place the cauliower, onion, bay leaf,
thyme and milk in a saucepan over
medium heat. Bring to a simmer, then
reduce heat to low and cook, partially
covered, for 8-10 minutes until cauliower
is tender. Strain, reserving cauliower and
milk, and discard the other solids.
Melt butter in a clean saucepan over
low heat. Add the our and cook, stirring,
for 2-3 minutes, then gradually whisk
in the reserved milk. Cook for a further
2-3 minutes until thickened and combined.
Whisk in the egg yolks, 1/2 cup (125ml)
cream and half the cheese until combined.
Remove from heat and set aside.
Whiz the cauliower in a food processor
until smooth, then add cheese sauce and
pulse to combine. Season.
In a large bowl, using electric beaters,
whisk eggwhites to stiff peaks. Fold
one-quarter of eggwhites into cauliower
mixture to loosen, then gently fold in
remainder. Divide among prepared
PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY DAMIAN BENNETT
200g cauliower, cut into orets
1/2 onion, chopped
1 bay leaf
2 thyme sprigs
350ml milk
80g unsalted butter
120g plain our
4 eggs, separated
300ml thickened cream
140g gruyere, grated
Radicchio leaves and watercress,
to serve
AUTUMN ENTERTAINING.
Twice-baked
cauliower soufes
4 thick slices at pancetta,
rind removed, chopped
250g small Swiss brown mushrooms
2 garlic cloves, crushed
2 bay leaves
2 thyme sprigs,
leaves chopped
2 tsp tomato paste
2 tsp plain our
1/2 cup (125ml) red wine
11/2 cups (375ml) beef stock
Mashed potato and wild rocket leaves,
to serve
Growing up in the UK, we always used to
celebrate autumn with a harvest festival,
when an abundance of produce from local
farmers would be distributed to those in need.
ramekins, place in a deep baking pan and
ll with enough boiling water to come
halfway up the sides of ramekins. Bake for
20 minutes or until puffed and golden.
Remove from pan and set aside to cool
slightly before turning out onto a baking
tray (they can be covered and refrigerated
for 24 hours at this stage).
Preheat oven to 180C. Pour remaining
175ml cream over soufes and scatter
with remaining cheese. Bake for a further
10-15 minutes until soufes rise again and
sauce bubbles. Serve with salad leaves.
64delicious.
30-MINUTE BEEF BOURGUIGNON
SERVES 4
I love the avours of a hearty beef
bourguignon, but sometimes you just
want it now! This quick version still
has a rich depth of avour, but comes
together in a ash.
8 eschalots
2 tbs olive oil
20g unsalted butter
500g beef eye llet,
cut into 4cm pieces
Fill a saucepan with water and bring to
the boil over high heat. Blanch the
eschalots for 5 minutes or until just
tender, then drain and set aside.
Heat 1 tbs oil in a large deep frypan
over medium-high heat. Cook the
eschalots, turning, for 2-3 minutes until
golden. Remove from pan and set aside.
Add the butter and remaining 1 tbs oil
to the pan. Add the beef, in batches
and cook, turning, for 3-4 minutes until
browned all over. Remove from pan
and set aside.
Reduce heat to medium, add the
pancetta, mushrooms, garlic, bay
leaves and thyme, and cook, stirring,
for 5 minutes. Add the tomato paste
and cook, stirring, for 1 minute, then add
the our and cook for a further 1 minute
or until combined. Stir in the wine and
cook for 2 minutes or until slightly
thickened. Add the stock, whisking to
combine, then return the eschalots to the
pan. Cook for 6-8 minutes until slightly
reduced and thickened. Return the beef
to the pan and simmer for a further
2 minutes or until warmed through.
Serve with mashed potato and
garnished with rocket leaves.
AUTUMN ENTERTAINING.
Pumpkin & goats cheese
bruschetta with sage burnt
butter (recipe p 66). Opposite:
30-minute beef bourguignon.
AUTUMN ENTERTAINING.
PUMPKIN & GOATS CHEESE
BRUSCHETTA WITH SAGE
BURNT BUTTER
MAKES 6
1/2
butternut pumpkin (500g),
peeled, cut into 1.5cm pieces
2 tbs olive oil
1/2 tsp dried chilli akes
6 slices sourdough
1 garlic clove, halved
150g soft goats cheese
3/4 cup (250g) caramelised onion jam
(we used Stefanos)
50g unsalted butter
12 sage leaves
Preheat the oven to 180C. Place the
pumpkin on a baking paper-lined baking
tray and drizzle with 1 tbs oil, season
and sprinkle with chilli akes. Roast for
20 minutes or until golden and tender.
Heat a chargrill pan over high heat. Toast
bread slices for 1-2 minutes each side until
lightly charred. While still warm, rub both
sides with garlic halves. Place toast on a
baking tray. Spread each slice with goats
cheese, top with caramelised onion and
scatter with pumpkin pieces. Bake for
2 minutes or until warmed through.
Meanwhile, melt butter and remaining
1 tbs oil in a small frypan over medium
heat. Add sage leaves and cook for
1 minute or until butter is browned
and sage is crisp.
Drizzle bruschetta with sage burnt
butter, and serve immediately.
PARSNIP SKORDALIA
WITH WILD MUSHROOMS
SERVES 4
The wild mushrooms in this dish work
perfectly with the soft parsnip puree
and the dukkah adds a lovely crunch.
500g parsnips, peeled,
chopped
300ml milk
2 garlic cloves
Juice of 1/2 lemon
21/2 tbs olive oil
2 /3 cup (50g) grated parmesan
66delicious.
50g unsalted butter
500g mixed wild mushrooms (such as
Swiss brown, shiitake, king brown,
black ear fungus and enoki)
2 tbs chopped at-leaf parsley leaves
2 tbs dukkah
Micro red garnet (optional), to serve
Whisk remaining 1/3 cup (80ml) oil,
2 tbs balsamic and g cooking juices in a
bowl. Season. Transfer to a bowl with the
leaves, prosciutto, cheese and croutons.
Toss to combine. Arrange on a platter and
garnish with baked gs to serve.
MULLED WINE PLUM COBBLER
Place parsnip, milk and 1 garlic clove in
a pan over medium-high heat. Bring to
the boil, then reduce heat to medium-low
and cook for 10-12 minutes until parsnips
are tender. Cool slightly, then transfer
parsnip mixture to a food processor. Add
lemon juice and whiz until smooth. With
the motor running, slowly add the oil.
Add the cheese, season and whiz to
combine. Cover and keep warm.
Finely chop remaining garlic clove. Melt
half the butter in a frypan over high heat.
In two batches, cook half the mushrooms
and garlic for 3-4 minutes until golden.
Repeat with remaining butter, mushrooms
and garlic. Return all mushrooms to pan.
Stir through parsley and season.
To serve, divide parsnip skordalia among
plates. Top with mushrooms and sprinkle
with dukkah and red garnet, if using.
FIG, PROSCIUTTO
& RADICCHIO SALAD
SERVES 4-6
4 slices sourdough, torn
100ml extra virgin olive oil
4 gs, halved
2 tbs honey
1/3 cup (80ml) balsamic vinegar
150g mixed salad leaves (mesclun)
1 small radicchio, leaves torn
8 thin slices prosciutto, torn
150g English stilton or other
blue-vein cheese, crumbled
Preheat oven to 180C. Place the
sourdough on a baking paper-lined
baking tray and drizzle with 1 tbs oil.
Bake for 8-10 minutes until golden and
crisp. Remove from tray and set aside.
Place gs, skin-side down, on tray, drizzle
with honey and half the balsamic. Bake
for 6-8 minutes until starting to collapse.
SERVES 6
450ml red wine
1/2 cup (110g) caster sugar
2 tbs redcurrant jelly
2 each star anise and cinnamon quills
3 whole cloves
Pared zest of 1 orange
12 blood plums, halved,
stones removed
11/2 cups (225g) self-raising our
1 tsp ground cinnamon
125g unsalted butter, chopped
1/2 rmly packed cup (125g) brown sugar
1 egg
1 tbs nely chopped rosemary leaves,
plus extra sprigs to garnish
1/2 cup (125ml) buttermilk
1 cup (100g) aked almonds
Double-thick cream, to serve
To make the mulled wine sauce, combine
wine, caster sugar, redcurrant jelly, spices
and zest in a pan over medium-low heat.
Cook, stirring, for 1-2 minutes until sugar
dissolves. Cook for a further 15 minutes
or until reduced and syrupy. Strain,
discarding solids. Set aside to cool.
Preheat oven to 180C. Place plums,
cut-side up, in a 2L (8-cup) baking dish,
then bake for 10 minutes or until softened.
Meanwhile, sift our and ground
cinnamon into a bowl and rub in butter
until mixture resembles ne breadcrumbs.
Add brown sugar, egg, rosemary and
buttermilk, and stir to combine. Set aside.
Remove plums from the oven. Drizzle
with 1 cup (250ml) mulled wine sauce,
then drop heaped spoonfuls of dough
over plums. Scatter with almonds, then
bake for 30 minutes or until golden.
Garnish cobbler with extra rosemary
sprigs and serve with remaining mulled
wine sauce and double-thick cream.
Mulled wine
plum cobbler
early RISER
From pillowy cinnamon-scented buns to oozy fontina-lled atbreads,
PHOTOGRAPHY BEN DEARNLEY
68delicious.
STYLING DAVID MORGAN
MATT PRESTON.
Swedish pecan
& cinnamon buns
(recipe p 74)
PRAWN & BACON FLATBREADS
MAKES 4
Thicker atbread and the smokiness
of cumin gives this simple bread recipe
a makeover and the strength to hold
some heavyweight llings.
As Ive grown older and
wiser, Ive learnt to love the
earthy joys of the bake, and
the satisfaction of making
your own breads and rolls
assuming you can make
them quickly.
I DID NOT TAKE to baking early. As a hungry child, there is little joy in hours
spent watching an oven for something good to come out of it. As Ive grown
older and wiser, however, I have learnt to love the earthy joys of the bake and
the satisfaction of making your own breads and rolls assuming you can make
them quickly and without all the usual palaver. Thats what I hope these six
recipes represent: simple baking that makes you feel like a domestic god
or goddess, but without the usual sacrices.
Theyll also give you, your family and your friends a really good feed. Plus,
you also get to use the throwaway (but loaded with honey-rich smugness) line,
yeah, I baked that myself, when shrugging off their effusive praise. Sweet!
Place the yoghurt, our and cumin seeds
in the bowl of an electric mixer tted with
a dough hook. Knead on low speed for
2 minutes or until a smooth dough forms.
Turn out onto a lightly oured surface
and divide into 4 equal portions. Shape
each into a ball, then roll out to 20cm
discs. Place discs between sheets of
baking paper and cover with a tea towel.
Peel and segment limes, then cut each
segment into 3. Place in a bowl with 1 tbs
oil and set aside in a warm place (this
softens their acidity without losing their
vibrancy). In a separate bowl, combine
mayonnaise and Maggi seasoning.
Place a large frypan over medium-high
heat. Brush one atbread with oil and
place in the pan. Cook for 2 minutes each
side or until slightly blistered. Remove
and repeat with remaining atbreads,
then set aside and cover to keep warm.
Heat remaining 1 tbs oil in a pan
over medium-high heat. Cook the bacon,
turning, for 4-5 minutes until crisp and
golden. Drain on paper towel, then
roughly chop. Keep fat in the pan and
return to the heat. Cook the prawns,
turning, for 2-3 minutes until almost
cooked, then add the garlic and cook
for a further 1-2 minutes until fragrant.
Spread 1 tbs mayonnaise mixture on
each atbread. Top with avocado, bacon,
lettuce, prawns and lime to serve.
PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY ADAM HADDRICK
1 cup (280g) thick Greek-style yoghurt
2 cups (300g) self-raising our
1 tsp cumin seeds
3 limes
2 tbs olive oil, plus extra to brush
1/2 cup (150g) Kewpie mayonnaise
3 drops Maggi seasoning
4 streaky bacon rashers
600g green prawns, peeled, deveined
2 garlic cloves, nely chopped
2 avocados, esh chopped
1/4 iceberg lettuce, shredded
MATT PRESTON.
Black buns with
smoked trout.
Opposite: prawn
& bacon atbreads.
delicious. 71
Hot ice cream bread
72delicious.
MATT PRESTON.
BLACK BUNS WITH SMOKED TROUT
MAKES 12
Frances dreamiest pastry chef is, apparently,
according to the woman I love and, in fact,
to most women I know my old mate
Gontran Cherrier. And if that wasnt enough,
hes also the avour of the month in the City
of Love, for the colourful buns he sells in his
uber-hip Montmartre patisserie. While Ill
never look like him, at least I can steal his
idea for a jet-black bun, and give it an Aussie
twist by lling it with trout and cream cheese
and the fresh crunch of cos lettuce.
Begin this recipe 1 day ahead.
2 x 7g sachets (1 tbs) dried instant yeast
1kg bread our, sifted
150g squid ink (available from
shmongers and gourmet shops)
Olive oil, to grease
2 tsp caster sugar
1 telegraph cucumber, peeled, seeds
removed, thinly sliced into ribbons
250g softened cream cheese
1 baby cos lettuce, leaves separated
300g smoked ocean trout
1 red onion, halved, very thinly sliced
2 tbs small capers, rinsed, drained
1 lemon, cut into wedges
Combine yeast with 1 cup (250ml) warm
water in a bowl. Stir to combine, then set
aside for 5 minutes or until frothy.
Place the our and a pinch of salt in the
bowl of an electric mixer tted with a dough
hook. Combine squid ink with 2 cups (500ml)
water. With the motor running on low speed,
gradually add the squid ink mixture, along
with the yeast mixture. Knead for 5 minutes
or until well combined (note that it will be
a very wet dough). Transfer dough to a large
oiled bowl, cover with plastic wrap, then
chill overnight or until tripled in size.
Preheat the oven to 200C. Line 2 baking
trays with baking paper. Using a 1/2 cup
(125ml) measuring cup, divide the dough
into 12 portions.
1/2
Oil your hands slightly and shape dough
into smooth balls. Place, 4cm apart, on
the baking trays and bake for 30 minutes
or until the crust looks matt black and set,
and the inside sounds hollow when tapped.
Meanwhile, combine sugar and 1 tsp salt
in a bowl. Add the cucumber and toss to
combine. Set aside.
Split the rolls horizontally (dont cut all
the way through). Spread the cream cheese
over base of each roll, top with a lettuce leaf,
drained cucumber, then the trout, onion and
capers. Spread more cream cheese on the
top lid. Serve with lemon wedges.
HOT ICE CREAM BREAD
MAKES 1 LOAF
This is one of those recipes that just sounds
impossible, but the result is a cakey loaf
with a crunchy crust. Take this bread to
next-level status by serving with slices of
frozen salted butter. The contrast in texture
when combined with the contrasting
temperature of the frozen butter makes
this a strangely addictive bake.
11/2 cups (225g) self-raising our
2 cups (500ml) melted vanilla ice cream,
plus extra frozen ice cream to serve
1 tsp vanilla extract
250g punnet strawberries, hulled,
roughly chopped
2 tbs caster sugar
Preheat the oven to 180C. Grease and our
a 12cm x 22cm loaf pan. Combine the our,
melted ice cream and vanilla in a large bowl
and stir until the mixture is just combined
but still lumpy. Transfer the mixture to the
prepared pan and bake for 35-40 minutes
until golden and a skewer inserted into the
centre comes out clean. Set aside to cool
slightly, then turn out onto a wire rack.
Meanwhile, combine the strawberries
and sugar in a bowl and toss to coat.
Slice the bread while warm and serve
with strawberries and extra ice cream.
MAKES 16
Sweden is one of the great baking
destinations of the world. The rather
stunning journey over the mountains
between northern Sweden to the old
Norwegian capital of Trondheim is
made all the sweeter with a bag of these
fragrant cinnamon-scented beauties.
220ml milk
21/2 tbs caster sugar
7g sachet (2 tsp) dried instant yeast
450g bread our, plus extra to dust
250g chilled unsalted butter
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 tbs ground cinnamon
3/4 rmly packed cup (185g) brown sugar
3 cups (420g) pecans
1/2 cup (125ml) maple syrup
1 cup (150g) pure icing sugar
Combine 160ml milk and caster sugar in
a saucepan over low heat to warm slightly,
then remove from heat. Transfer mixture
to a small bowl, add yeast, stir to combine,
then set aside for 5 minutes or until frothy.
Sift the our into the bowl of an electric
mixer with 1 tsp salt. Chop 100g butter
into 1cm cubes and add to the bowl. Rub
butter into our mixture until it resembles
coarse breadcrumbs. Make a well in the
centre and pour in the eggs. Knead with a
dough hook on low speed for 1-2 minutes
until combined, then add the yeast
mixture. Knead on low speed for a further
8-10 minutes until dough is soft. Transfer
YOGHURT BREAD PIADINA
WITH FONTINA
MAKES 6
1 cup (280g) thick Greek-style yoghurt
2 cups (300g) self-raising our,
plus extra to dust
1 tbs olive oil, plus extra to brush
1 garlic clove, crushed
350g baby spinach leaves
Juice of 1/2 lemon
250g fontina cheese, sliced
250g truss tomatoes,
seeds removed, chopped
Combine yoghurt, 11/2 cups (225g) our
and 1/2 tsp salt in the bowl of an electric
mixer tted with a dough hook. Knead
on low speed for 2 minutes or until a wet
dough forms. Scatter remaining 1/2 cup
(75g) our on a clean surface. Transfer the
dough to the surface and knead by hand,
stretching it corner to corner, and bringing
in the remaining our until smooth and
elastic. Form into a log and cut into
6 equal portions. Shape into balls and
set aside. Lightly dust the surface with
extra our, then roll each ball into a
20cm disc. Place discs between sheets
of baking paper and cover with a clean
tea towel until ready to cook.
Heat oil in a large frypan over medium
heat. Add the garlic and cook for
10 seconds, then add the spinach and
toss to combine. Cook for 1-2 minutes
until the spinach starts to wilt, then stir
through lemon juice. Drain any excess
liquid from the spinach, remove from
the pan and set aside to keep warm.
Wipe the pan clean and return to
medium-high heat. Brush 1 atbread on
both sides with oil and place in the pan.
Cook for 1-2 minutes until light golden
and bubbles start to form, then ip over.
Place one-sixth of the cheese over half of
the atbread, then top with some spinach
and tomato. Season, reduce heat to low,
then fold over half of the atbread to
encase the lling. Cook for a further
1-2 minutes, then ip and cook for a
further 1 minute or until melted and
warmed through. Repeat with remaining
atbreads, cheese, spinach and tomato.
Cinnamon buns: 'Retro Chair' in Essential Black, Freedom. For stockist details, see Directory, p 159.
SWEDISH PECAN
& CINNAMON BUNS
dough to an oiled bowl, cover with a
damp tea towel and stand in a warm
place for 1 hour or until doubled in size.
Meanwhile, place cinnamon, 1/2 cup
(125g) brown sugar, 1 cup (140g) pecans
and 11/2 tsp salt in a food processor and
whiz until nely chopped. Add another
1/2 cup (70g) pecans and pulse until the
pecans are roughly chopped.
Knock back the dough on a lightly
oured surface, then divide into
2 portions. Dust the tops with our,
then roll out on baking paper into two
24cm x 36cm rectangles. Melt remaining
150g butter and lightly brush a little over
each rectangle. With a long edge facing
you, gently press half the pecan mixture
into one rectangle, leaving a 3cm gap
along the top edge. Working from the
edge closest to you, roll up the dough,
making sure to tighten the roll as you
go. Using the blunt edge of a knife, seal
the edge along the seam. Repeat with
the second rectangle and remaining
pecan mixture. Place rolls on a baking
tray, seam-side down, then chill for
30 minutes to rest and rm up.
Meanwhile, roughly chop the remaining
11/2 cups (210g) pecans, then combine
two-thirds (reserving the remaining third
to garnish) with maple syrup, remaining
melted butter (left over after brushing)
and remaining 1/4 cup (60g) brown sugar.
Remove the rolls from the fridge and
cut each into 8 slices. Evenly spread the
maple-pecan butter into a 30cm-deep
heavy-based baking dish, then sprinkle
with 1/2 tsp sea salt. Arrange the slices,
cut-side up, evenly around the dish with
2-3cm spaces between. Cover the dish
with plastic wrap and set aside in a warm
place for 30 minutes or until risen.
Preheat the oven to 180C. Remove
the plastic wrap and bake buns for
35-40 minutes until golden and cooked
through (cover with foil if browning too
quickly). Set aside to cool slightly.
To make the icing, combine the icing
sugar and remaining 1/4 cup (60ml) milk
in a bowl. Invert the buns onto a platter
so the pecan-caramel side is facing up.
Sprinkle over the reserved chopped
pecans and drizzle with icing to serve.
MATT PRESTON.
Yoghurt bread piadina
with fontina
delicious. 75
MATT PRESTON.
MEMPHIS BANANA BREAD
SERVES 6
Elvis loved peanut butter and banana
sandwiches, so this seemed the perfect
makeover for my favourite banana bread
recipe, fortuitously known in our house
as rockstar banana bread because the
recipe is seemingly indestructible.
1 cup (220g) caster sugar
175g softened unsalted butter
2 eggs
3 ripe bananas, mashed,
plus 5 rm bananas
13/4 cups (260g) plain our
1 tsp bicarbonate of soda
100g brown sugar
Juice of 1/2 lemon
76delicious.
300ml thickened cream,
whisked to soft peaks
1/2 cup (75g) salted peanuts,
chopped
100ml rum
Preheat the oven to 180C. Lightly
grease and line a 1.25L loaf pan with
baking paper.
Using electric beaters, beat caster sugar
and 125g butter until thick and pale. Add
the eggs and mashed banana, then beat
on low speed until combined. Add the
our, bicarbonate of soda and 1/2 tsp salt,
and stir until just combined. Pour the
mixture into the prepared loaf pan and
bake for 55 minutes or until a skewer
inserted into the centre comes out clean.
Set aside to cool slightly, then turn out
onto a wire rack to cool completely.
To make the topping, place brown sugar
and remaining 50g butter in a saucepan
over medium heat, stirring until sugar
dissolves. Slice rm bananas at an angle
and toss in lemon juice to coat, then add
to pan. Cook, tossing, for 1-2 minutes until
banana starts to soften and caramelise.
To serve, slice banana bread and toast
lightly. Top with the caramelised banana,
whipped cream and peanuts. Place the
rum in a small saucepan over medium
heat and warm slightly. Tilt the pan slightly
away from yourself. Carefully light a match
and ignite the rum, then immediately pour
aming rum over the plated banana
bread, bananas and cream.
ADVERTISEMENT
SWEET SURPRISE
A little sugar and spice is the secret to this smart mufn recipe
made using Easter eggs and MasterFoods Vanillin Sugar.
EASTER EGG MUFFINS
Makes 12
2 cups (340g) self-raising flour
cup (155g) caster sugar
1 egg
cup (125ml) sunflower oil
cup (185ml) milk
12 mini chocolate Easter eggs, unwrapped
cup (55g) MasterFoods Vanillin Sugar,
for dusting
Preheat oven to 160C. Line twelve 1/3-cup capacity
non-stick muffin pans with paper patty cases.
Sift flour into a bowl and stir in sugar. Make a
well in the centre. Combine egg, oil and milk in a jug
and pour mixture into the well. Using alarge metal
spoon, stir until just combined. Donot over mix.
Spoon of the mixture into prepared cases.
Press an Easter egg into the centre of each muffin
making sure it does not touch the bottom.
Spoon over remaining batter, making sure to
cover Easter eggs completely. Sprinkle tops
of muffins liberally with vanillin sugar
(approximately 1tsp per muffin).
Bake for 20 minutes or until muffins are
light golden and spring back when lightly
pressed at centre. Stand in pan for 2 minutes
before turning out onto a wire rack. Serve warm.
TIP: Muffins are best eaten on day of baking. Once
cooled, you can wrap individually in plastic wrap and
freeze for up to 3 months. Leave to defrost and eat at
room temperature or warm slightly in the microwave.
SUGAR AND SPICE MAKE ALL THINGS NICE
MasterFoods Vanillin Sugar is a special blend of fine white sugar and aromatic vanilla.
In a ready-to-sprinkle bottle, it adds a light fresh flavour to porridge and cereal, and
tastes delish sprinkled on fruit or ice-cream. Use it to
sweeten coffee or tea and add a little to a smoothie or
milkshake. For more recipes and information,
visit taste.com.au/easterbaking
crafted by nature
On an organic farm in the rich pastures of the Goulburn Valley in Victoria, an Australian family
is following age-old traditions and working with nature to produce pure pot-set yoghurt.
JALNA ADVERTISING FEATURE
Peter Smith, John Schoeld and Melinda Smith
Jalna is a second-generation Australian
family business, passionate about
making traditional pot-set yoghurt.
pure pot-set quality
Peter and Melinda Smith, who run the Jalna biodynamic organic farm
for the McLaren family, believe life should be as simple and
uncomplicated as possible. On the farm, located just outside of Echuca
in Victoria, they adopt a holistic, organic approach. They lovingly tend
to the lush pastures and herd of cows to supply the best-quality milk to
make Jalnas traditional pot-set yoghurts. Jalna produces yoghurt in the
most natural way they simply take the fresh milk sourced from local
farms, add friendly probiotic cultures, place it in pots, sealing with a lid,
and create the ideal environment to let nature do the rest. Jalna is a
second-generation family business, with the McLaren story beginning
over 36 years ago when they purchased a small dairy from a Polish
migrant who specialised in making cheese, cream and pot-set yoghurt.
The dairy was called Jalna, so they decided to keep the name and
continue the pot-set tradition.
Quality Assurance Manager, John Schoeld, is always on hand to
ensure the nest ingredients are used to make the yoghurts, with
absolutely no articial ingredients, gums, stabilisers or cane sugar. The
team is passionate about the way they make their yoghurt and believe
that the delicious results speak for themselves they know that food
made in a natural way not only tastes better, but is better for you. Life
in Australia is wonderful, with our vast outdoors and abundance of
delicious foods and fresh ingredients, says Melinda. We want
Australians everywhere to enjoy our small contribution.
visit www.jalna.com.au
A little pot of purity
SI VI
L
a
Easter feast in Sydney with family and friends.
PHOTOGRAPHY PETRINA TINSLAY
STYLING VIVEN WALSH
ENTERTAINING.
Colomba (Easter sweet bread)
with amaretto mascarpone
(recipe p 88)
delicious.81
ENTERTAINING.
aster is an important time on my familys entertaining
calendar. Growing up in Italy, Easter was the
much-anticipated feast that signalled the end of
Quaresima (Lent) and that heralded the longed-for
spring season. Lent nally coming to an end was
not taken lightly by my older siblings and me. After 40 days
of no lollies, no chocolate and no special treats (unless we were
willing to recite the rosary for one hour), we would eagerly visit
our Nonna Irene, knowing that freshly baked treats would be
on offer to reward our frugality.
Easter in Italy is a time of indulgence, best served with copious
amounts of chocolate eggs, the opulent pastiera Napoletana
(an orange-avoured ricotta and wheat tart) and the famous
Sicilian cassata. The queen of all desserts, though, is colomba,
a sweet bread very similar to panettone, but shaped like a dove
from which it gets its name (colomba). Colomba is widely available
in colourful packaging in all stores, but for me and my mum,
nothing comes close to the fragrance of one that is home-baked.
Yes, I will concede it is slightly labour-intensive, but the effort
is well worth the pain! With this in mind, here is my familys
version, and this Easter I am so lucky to have my mum,
Loredana, and dad, Marco, here to help with the kneading.
Easter savoury offerings in Italy are a celebration of spring,
from tender lamb and sweet garden peas, to asparagus tips
of an intense emerald green. Fresh pasta is always on the menu
and there are no rules as far as the sauce goes: anything will
do so long as you roll your own dough.
These days, I have swapped my seasons around and I enjoy the
cooler breeze of the mild Sydney autumn and the abundance of
exciting produce it brings, such as the cornucopia of mushrooms
making a welcome appearance at market stalls. For todays lunch,
my friend, stylist Jono Fleming, has joined my sons, Raphael
and Miro, and my mum and dad to share our authentically Italian
meal, with silky homemade pasta, succulent braised lamb shanks
with potatoes and lemon (my dads absolute favourite) and
my homemade colomba with Marsala-soaked sultanas. The spirit
remains unaltered cherishing the snug feeling of preparing
robust, warming food to share with the ones I love.
82delicious.
PREVIOUS PAGES: Silvia: Stripes wide black
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NO-KNEAD BREAD
MAKES 1 LOAF
The secret to this recipe is proving the
dough overnight. As you dont knead
the dough, the air bubbles stay trapped,
resulting in a loaf with a soft, airy crumb.
Begin this recipe 1 day ahead.
3 cups (450g) plain our
1/2 tsp dried instant yeast
Combine our, yeast and 350ml room
temperature water in a large bowl. Add
2 tsp salt and stir to combine (the mixture
will be quite sticky). Cover with plastic
wrap and set aside to rest for 10 hours
or overnight until tripled in size.
Turn out dough onto a lightly oured
surface, then using your hands, form into
a ball. Gently wrap in a tea towel dusted
with our. Set aside for a further 11/2 hours.
Preheat the oven to 220C. Place a cast
iron pot, without the lid, in the oven to
preheat for 40 minutes. Place dough in the
preheated pot, cover with the lid and bake
for 30 minutes. Remove lid and bake for
a further 15-20 minutes until golden.
Remove from pot and cool to room
temperature before serving.
Pasta handkerchiefs
with mushroom ragu.
Above: Jono Fleming
with Miro and Raphael.
PASTA HANDKERCHIEFS
WITH MUSHROOM RAGU
SERVES 6 AS A STARTER
You will need a pasta machine.
THIS PAGE: Pasta handkerchiefs: Rattan
placemats, Camargue large round plates,
Avignon washed-linen napkins in white,
Porcelain Dusk bowl in Light, and Florence
Broadhurst Cockatoo napkin in black (all as
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OPPOSITE: Torta pasqualina: Florence
Broadhurst Cockatoo napkin in black,
vintage fork, Camargue small white plate
and Black tie plate with black rim
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84delicious.
21/2 cups (400g) 00 our
4 eggs, lightly beaten
Semolina, to dust
1/3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil
2 eschalots, thinly sliced
1 garlic clove, nely chopped
1/2 bunch at-leaf parsley, leaves picked,
stalks nely chopped
1/2 tbs thyme leaves, nely chopped
600g mixed mushrooms (such as pine,
portobello, king brown, chestnut
or slippery jack), roughly chopped
1/2 cup (125ml) white wine
20g unsalted butter
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon
To make the pasta, place the our in a
mound on a clean work surface and make
a well in the centre. Pour in the eggs
and 1/2 tsp salt, then, using your hands,
gradually incorporate the eggs into the
our to form a soft dough. Knead for
5-8 minutes until smooth and elastic.
Enclose dough in plastic wrap and
chill for 30 minutes.
Divide the dough into 4 equal portions,
then enclose 3 portions in plastic wrap
and set aside. Starting on the thickest
setting of your pasta machine, run the
dough through 2-3 times, folding it in
half each time, until smooth and elastic.
Continue rolling the dough through
the settings 2-3 times, reducing the
thickness each time, until 2mm thick.
Place pasta sheet on a semolina-dusted
tray and cover with a clean tea towel
while you roll remaining dough portions.
Dust each sheet of pasta with
semolina, then, using a sharp knife,
slice each sheet into rough triangular
shapes that resemble handkerchiefs.
Dust again with semolina and set aside.
To make the mushroom ragu, heat
the oil in a large frypan over medium
heat. Add the eschalot, garlic, parsley
stalks and thyme, and cook, stirring, for
1 minute or until fragrant. Increase heat
to high and add the mushrooms. Cook,
stirring, for 2-3 minutes, then add the
wine and simmer for 2-3 minutes until
most of the liquid has evaporated.
Reduce heat to low, cover with a lid and
cook for a further 4-6 minutes, then add
the butter and stir to combine. Season
and remove from the heat.
Cook pasta in a large saucepan of
boiling salted water for 2 minutes or until
al dente. Drain, reserving a little cooking
water. Add pasta to the ragu and toss to
combine. Return the pan to high heat and
cook, tossing, for 1 minute or until heated
through. Add a little cooking water, if
necessary, to loosen.
Divide pasta among bowls and garnish
with parsley leaves, lemon zest and freshly
ground pepper to serve.
ENTERTAINING.
Torta pasqualina
(Easter savoury pie)
ENTERTAINING.
TORTA PASQUALINA
(EASTER SAVOURY PIE)
SERVES 6-8 AS A STARTER
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Preheat the oven to 200C. Grease
a 26cm springform cake pan.
Heat oil in a large frypan with a lid over
high heat. Cook garlic for 30 seconds or
until fragrant. Add silverbeet and cover
with the lid. Cook for 3-4 minutes until
wilted. Season with salt and set aside to
cool. Remove garlic and discard. Drain
silverbeet in a colander, pressing down
to remove excess liquid.
Combine the silverbeet, ricotta, nutmeg,
lemon zest, cheeses and 2 eggs in a large
bowl, season and set aside.
Roll out the pastry on a lightly oured
surface until 5mm thick, then line the base
and 4cm up the side of the pan to form a
rim. Cut the remaining pastry into four
26cm-long strips. Spoon ricotta mixture
into base, smoothing surface with a spoon.
Make four evenly spaced indents in the
lling, then crack an egg into each.
Arrange 4 pastry strips in a criss-cross
pattern over the lling to create 8 wedges.
Lightly beat remaining egg and brush over
pastry. Transfer to a baking tray and bake
for 40-45 minutes until golden and crisp.
ROASTED CAULIFLOWER WITH
ANCHOVY & PARSLEY SAUCE
SERVES 4-6 AS A SIDE
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Preheat oven to 200C. Line a large baking
tray with baking paper. Cook cauliower
in a large saucepan of boiling salted water
for 3-5 minutes until par-cooked. Drain
and return to pan over low heat. Stir
for 30 seconds to remove excess water.
Toss cauliower with 1/4 cup (60ml) oil
and 1/2 tsp salt, then place on prepared
baking tray, and roast, turning occasionally,
for 25-30 minutes until tender and golden.
Meanwhile, to make dressing, place
lemon zest and juice, anchovy, capers,
eschalot, parsley and remaining 2 tbs oil
in a jar, seal, then shake to combine.
Arrange the cauliower on a platter,
drizzle with the dressing and season
with freshly ground pepper to serve.
BRAISED LAMB SHANKS WITH
POTATOES, OLIVES AND LEMON
SERVES 4
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Dust the lamb in our. Heat 2 tbs oil
in a large casserole over medium-high
heat. Season the lamb, then cook, turning,
for 6-8 minutes until browned. Remove
from pan and set aside.
Reduce heat to medium and add the
garlic, onion, carrot, celery, thyme and
remaining 2 tbs oil. Cook for 2-3 minutes
until fragrant. Return lamb to the casserole
Silvias
Theres nothing I enjoy more than
PLAN
having friends and family over for
dinner. I try to get organised and prepare as much
as I can in advance, so that I can enjoy my guests
company instead of slaving in the kitchen. Even
when the menu calls for some intense work, I try
to think of it as part of the enjoyment. Cleaning
up afterwards, however, is a different matter...
My boys, Raphael and Miro, like to
TABLE
help pick owers and herbs from the
garden to dress the table. I use freshly cut rosemary
or thyme to nestle on top of linen napkins, then all
I add is simple cutlery and crockery, and candles
to set the mood. If the weather allows, I set the table
on our deck, to enjoy the tranquil Pittwater views.
My iPod is an eclectic mess
PLAYLIST
of operas and classical music
mixed with hard rock. To avoid quizzical looks, my
husband Richard is the DJ. His more sensible dinner
party list includes some of the best Italian singers
and our absolute favourite, Adriano Celentano.
My friend Marziale says, A glass of
WINE
prosecco is good at any time of day.
So I always greet guests with the pop of a prosecco
bottle and serve it in chilled Champagne utes. As for
wine, my loyalty lies with pinot grigio and Trebbiano
dAbruzzo, two examples of stunning crisp, dry white
wine. And to accompany meats and pasta sauces,
I always favour a good Montepulciano dAbruzzo.
OPPOSITE: Vase setting: Tall white and taupe
vase, $105, and small white and taupe vase, $28,
CPUI/P$IJOU[tA4USJQFTXJEFCMBDLDVTIJPO
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Table setting: 3BUUBOQMBDFNBUT
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Clauzon Lamb shanks: 5FSSBDPUUBDBTTFSPMFJO
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t%JBNPOEFODBVTUJDCMBDL
and white tile, $150/m2
5BQMPX5JMF4UPOF
Clockwise (from top left): Miro
and Raphael; Silvias mum
Loredana; braised lamb shanks
with potatoes, olives and lemon.
ENTERTAINING.
and season. Increase heat to high and add
wine, scraping the bottom of pan. Cook for
1-2 minutes until evaporated. Add stock
and enough water to cover lamb. Reduce
heat to low, then cover with a lid and cook
for 2 hours. Add potatoes and olives, cover
and cook for a further 45 minutes or until
the lamb is very tender and potatoes are
cooked through. Remove the lid and
simmer for 10-15 minutes until reduced by
one-third. Remove from heat and season.
Sprinkle lamb shanks with lemon zest
and extra thyme leaves to serve.
COLOMBA (EASTER SWEET BREAD)
WITH AMARETTO MASCARPONE
SERVES 8-10
Silvia bakes her colomba in a paper
baking mould from Italy. To purchase
a mould, visit: bakerybits.co.uk.
Begin this recipe 1 day ahead.
1/4
cup (60ml) lukewarm milk
2 tsp dried instant yeast
41/3 cups (690g) bread our
2 /3 cup (150g) caster sugar
120g softened unsalted butter
2 tbs honey
2 tsp vanilla bean paste
3 eggs
3/4 cup (120g) sultanas, soaked in 2 tbs
amaretto and 1/3 cup (80ml) warm water
Finely grated zest of 1 orange
GLAZE
1/4
Colomba (Easter sweet bread)
with amaretto mascarpone.
Above: Silvia and her sons,
Raphael and Miro.
Colomba: Steel cake stand
and Camargue small
white plate (all as before).
88delicious.
cup (25g) almond meal
2 tbs icing sugar, plus extra to serve
1 eggwhite
1/4 cup (40g) almonds
AMARETTO MASCARPONE
1 cup (250g) mascarpone
100ml double-thick cream
2 tbs amaretto (almond liqueur)
2 tbs icing sugar
1 tsp vanilla bean paste
Combine the milk and yeast in a bowl,
then set aside for 5 minutes or until
bubbles appear on the surface.
Whisk 1/4 cup (40g) our into yeast
mixture. Cover with a tea towel and stand
in a warm place for 1 hour or until frothy.
Add 150ml water to yeast mixture and
stir to combine. Whisk in another 2 /3 cup
(100g) our. Cover with a clean tea towel.
Stand in a warm place for a further 1 hour.
Transfer dough to the bowl of an electric
mixer tted with a dough hook. Add
2 tbs sugar and 3/4 cup (120g) our, then
knead on low speed for 5 minutes. Add
half the butter and knead for a further
2 minutes or until combined. Cover with a
clean tea towel and stand in a warm place
for 11/2 hours or until doubled in size.
Return bowl to the mixer. Add remaining
23/4 cups (430g) our and knead on low
speed for 1 minute. Add the honey, vanilla
and remaining 1/2 cup (110g) sugar, and
knead for a further 3-4 minutes. Add the
remaining 60g butter, a little at a time,
until combined. Add eggs, 1 at a time,
beating well after each addition. Continue
kneading on medium-low speed for
15-20 minutes until elastic and smooth.
If the dough feels wet, add 1-2 tbs more
our and beat until smooth. Drain the
sultanas, discarding liquid, and gently
fold through dough with the orange zest.
Place dough in a lightly oiled bowl. Cover
with a clean tea towel and stand in a warm
place for 1 hour.
Turn out dough onto a oured surface
and, using your hands, stretch to form into
a rough rectangle. Fold the rectangle into
three, then re-shape dough into a ball.
Place in a lightly oiled bowl and rest for
2-3 hours until doubled in size.
Grease a 28cm round cake pan or paper
colomba baking mould. Stretch, fold and
form dough into a ball as before. Transfer
to the pan. Cover with a tea towel, then
place in a large plastic bag (this will aid
the fermentation process). Chill overnight.
The next day, preheat the oven to 180C.
For the glaze, combine almond meal,
icing sugar, eggwhite and 1 tbs water.
Remove colomba from bag and gently
brush with glaze. Arrange almonds on top,
then bake for 1 hour or until golden and
cooked through (cover loosely with foil
if browning too quickly). Cool in pan.
For the amaretto mascarpone, combine
all the ingredients in a bowl. Set aside.
Dust colomba with icing sugar and
serve with amaretto mascarpone.
SUPER EASY TWIST ON THE TRADITIONAL TACO!
MAKES: 10 SOFT TACOS
500g chicken mince
large carrot, grated
Small handful coriander, washed and chopped
Old El Paso Taco Spice Mix
400g can baby roma or cherry tomatoes
Fresh Green Salsa
1 ripe avocado
1 cucumber, nely chopped
cup coriander leaves, chopped, extra
Juice of 1 lime
To Serve:
Old El Paso Mini Tortillas 10pk
Old El Paso Mild or Medium Thick n Chunky Salsa
1. Combine chicken, carrot, coriander and Taco Spice Mix in
a bowl. Take heaped tablespoons of mixture and roll into
30 meatballs. Heat a little oil in a frying pan and brown
meatballs. Add tomatoes to pan and simmer gently for
10 minutes or until meatballs are cooked.
2. Fresh Green Salsa: In a small bowl, roughly chop avocado
and mix with cucumber, extra coriander and lime juice.
3. For deliciously pan toasted soft tacos,
heat a non-stick frying pan over a medium
heat and brown each Mini Tortilla for
10 seconds on one side only.
4. Serve everything to the
table and enjoy!
Discover more delicious recipes like this from Old El Paso on
General Mills.
AUSTRALIAN FLAVOURS.
secret swine
SOCIETY
To celebrate the 10th anniversary of the popular PorkStar campaign,
we asked a few of its chef-ambassadors to share their pork recipes,
which use the whole hog, from belly to trotters.
PHOTOGRAPHY BRETT STEVENS
90delicious.
STYLING KRISTEN WILSON
We often have this recipe on the menu at
Four in Hand. Its a classic combination, with
the apple and celeriac remoulade. Pretty much
anything pickled or fruity goes with pork.
S D
Roast pork loin with bitter greens
and apple (recipe p 94)
AUSTRALIAN FLAVOURS.
ENGLISH PORK PIES
organisation for local producers, came up with the idea of harnessing the
creativity, cachet and culinary nous of the countrys top chefs for the PorkStar
initiative. The idea was simple to promote the versatility and quality of our
homegrown product by getting it onto restaurant menus, which in turn would
have a trickle-down effect on home consumers. Since 2005, some 60 chefs,
including those featured here, have become ofcial ambassadors, contributing
their recipes to the PorkStar website (porkstar.com.au) and adding plenty of
rockstar glam to a sophisticated, yet fun media campaign.
Over the decade, weve had more than 50 events in our PorkStar national
tours, as well as countless PorkStar pop-ups, says Mitch Edwards, Australian
Porks marketing manager. And Ive been thrilled to witness chefs jumping on
board, including many who are utilising the whole beast from nose to tail.
Its been great how PorkStar has worked
to get chefs involved, to the point that its
almost like this exclusive club... everyone
wants a bit of that action.
One such chef is Colin Fassnidge, of Sydneys Four in Hand and 4Fourteen,
whose whole suckling pig, and dishes such as pigs ear schnitzel and crisp pigs
tail with prawn, bisque and sorrel mayo, feature regularly on his menu.
The nose-to-tail thing isnt new to me, he reveals. Its what I grew up with,
but its good to see it catching on with the younger chefs now.
Colins long-time colleague, Neil Thompson, who now owns and runs The
Little Kitchen in Sydneys Coogee, also has nothing but praise for the PorkStar
initiative. Its a great way of meeting up with other chefs and exchanging
ideas, he says. PorkStar events bring a lot of people together.
Hamish Ingham, of Bar H Dining in Surry Hills, agrees. Ive been involved
for two years now, and, of course its good for your prole as a chef, and for
the restaurant, but its also brilliant at bringing the publics attention to the
Australian pork industry and supporting local producers. Thats always been
important to me, he says. Its also a good way to meet others in the industry
chefs and producers. PorkStar sometimes puts on secret chef sessions,
where we can get together and exchange ideas.
Its a social thing, too, says Colin: Its been great how PorkStar has worked
to get chefs involved, to the point that its almost like this exclusive club.
You know they get you dressed up like a drag queen and take your photo.
Everyone wants a bit of that action, he laughs.
WORDS SALLY FELDMAN
MAKES 6
Begin this recipe 1 day ahead.
3 pigs trotters, split lengthways
800g boneless pork belly,
rind removed
1 each onion, carrot and celery stalk,
roughly chopped
1/2 bunch each thyme and sage, leaves
picked, plus extra sprigs for stock
200g bacon rashers, rind removed,
nely chopped
200g pork mince
Hot English mustard and cornichons,
to serve
PASTRY
4 cups (600g) plain our, sifted
150g lard
1 egg, lightly beaten
Place trotters and pork belly in a large
saucepan and pour in enough water
to just cover. Add onion, carrot and
celery with a few sprigs of thyme and
sage. Bring to the boil over high heat,
skimming off any impurities. Reduce
heat to low, cover and simmer for
3 hours. Remove from heat and cool
meat completely in liquid. Once cool,
remove the pork belly and trotters from
the stock and shred, discarding fat from
trotters as well as any skin and bone.
Strain the stock into a large saucepan,
discarding remaining solids, then bring
to a simmer over medium heat. Simmer
for 15 minutes or until reduced by half.
Remove from heat and set aside to cool.
In a large bowl, combine bacon, mince,
and shredded trotter and belly meat with
the herbs. Season and stir to combine.
For the pastry, preheat oven to 180C.
Place the our and 1 tsp salt in an electric
mixer tted with a dough hook. Bring the
lard and 1 cup (250ml) water to just below
boiling point in a small pan over medium
heat. Add to the our mixture, then mix
on low speed until a dough forms.
Remove dough from mixer and cut into
6 equal-sized balls. On a lightly oured
surface, roll out the balls into 5mm-thick
discs. Grease, then line six 10cm round,
Pork pies are one of my favourite things
you just have to make sure you use lard to
get that crunch to the pastry. And you cant
have a proper pork pie without the jelly!
English pork pies
S
delicious. 93
AUSTRALIAN FLAVOURS.
4cm deep, pie moulds with pastry. Divide
pork mixture among the pastry cases. Trim
excess pastry, then re-roll trimmings until
5mm thick. Using a 11cm pastry cutter, cut
into 6 discs. Brush edges of pastry cases
with beaten egg, then cover with pastry
lids. Trim to remove excess pastry, sealing
edges with a fork. Use a knife to pierce a
hole in top of pies. Bake for 1 hour or until
pies are cooked through and pastry is
golden. Set aside on a wire rack to cool.
Pour remaining stock into each pie hole
until almost overowing. Chill overnight.
Serve cold with English mustard and
cornichons on the side.
PARMESAN & SAGE PORK CUTLETS
WITH SPICED TOMATO RELISH
SERVES 4
4 x 220g pork cutlets
21/2 cups day-old sourdough, torn
1/3 cup sage leaves, nely chopped
11/4 cups (100g) nely grated parmesan
2 eggs
1/3 cup (80ml) milk
Plain our, to dust
Sunower oil, to shallow-fry
Lemon wedges and salad leaves,
to serve
SPICED TOMATO RELISH (makes 3 cups)
2kg tomatoes, roughly chopped
2 garlic cloves, nely chopped
1 cup (250ml) white wine vinegar
400g caster sugar
1 tsp ground black pepper
1 tsp ground ginger
1/2 tsp ground allspice
1/3 tsp cayenne pepper
1/4 tsp ground cloves
94delicious.
For the relish, place all the ingredients
and 2 tsp salt in a saucepan over high
heat and bring to the boil. Reduce heat
to low, then simmer for 13/4 -2 hours until
reduced and thickened. Transfer to
sterilised jars. Store for up to 3 months.
Place the cutlets on a board and cover
with plastic wrap. Flatten with a rolling pin
until 1.5cm thick. Season.
Place sourdough in a food processor
and whiz to ne crumbs. Combine in
a bowl with sage and parmesan. Whisk
eggs and milk together in a bowl, then
place our in a third bowl. Holding the
cutlets by the bone, dust with our
and shake to remove any excess. Dip
into the egg mixture, then coat with
the breadcrumb mixture.
Heat 2cm oil in a large frypan over
medium heat. Cook cutlets for 3 minutes
each side or until golden and cooked
through. Serve with tomato relish, lemon
wedges and salad leaves.
ROAST PORK LOIN WITH
BITTER GREENS AND APPLE
SERVES 6
1.8kg boneless pork loin, skin scored,
rolled, tied at 2cm intervals
1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil
3 Granny Smith apples
100g unsalted butter
1/2 cup (110g) caster sugar
1 bunch sorrel, trimmed
1 bunch large rocket, trimmed
1 red endive,
leaves separated
1/2 bunch radishes, trimmed,
thinly sliced
Juice of 1/2 lemon
PORK SAUCE
2kg pork bones, chopped
(ask your butcher)
2 tbs olive oil
2 each onions, carrots and
celery stalks, chopped
400ml port
400ml clear apple juice
1 cinnamon quill
2 star anise
2L (8 cups) chicken stock
100g ginger, roughly chopped
1 bunch sage, torn
CELERIAC REMOULADE
450g celeriac
1 Granny Smith apple
Juice of 1 lemon
1/3 cup (150g) whole-egg mayonnaise
2 tbs creme fraiche
2 tbs Dijon mustard
2 tbs nely chopped at-leaf parsley,
plus extra to serve
For the sauce, preheat the oven to 200C.
Place the pork bones in a roasting pan and
roast for 30 minutes or until golden. Heat
oil in a large saucepan over medium-high
heat and cook the onion, carrot and celery
for 3-4 minutes until slightly softened. Add
the port, bring to the boil and cook for
1 minute, then add the apple juice and
two-thirds of the pork bones. In a small
frypan, dry-fry the cinnamon and star anise
for 1-2 minutes until fragrant. Add to the
saucepan with the chicken stock and
three-quarters of the ginger. Bring to the
boil then reduce heat to low and simmer,
uncovered, for 4 hours, skimming off any
impurities that rise to the surface. Strain
through a ne sieve into a large saucepan.
Parmesan & sage pork cutlets
with spiced tomato relish
There are hundreds
of variations on the
pork bun here I have
created a sweet, sour,
salty and slightly
caramelised filling.
through the mayonnaise mixture. Garnish
with extra chopped parsley.
Combine sorrel, rocket, endive and
radish in a bowl and drizzle with lemon
juice and remaining 2 tbs oil.
Just before serving, reheat pork sauce
and serve alongside pork, with apples,
bitter greens and remoulade on the side.
PORK BUNS
Pork buns
MAKES 16 BUNS
1kg boneless pork shoulder
2 cups (500ml) milk
1/2 cup (110g) caster sugar
80g fresh yeast (from gourmet shops)
5 cups (750g) plain our
STOCK
3 cups (750ml) Chinese rice wine
(shaohsing)
2 cups (500ml) dark soy sauce
1 cup (250ml) light soy sauce
11/2 cups (330g) caster sugar
1 cup roughly chopped ginger
10 garlic cloves, bruised
1 bunch spring onions, chopped
3 cinnamon quills
8 star anise
Pared zest of 1 orange
DIPPING SAUCE
1 long red chilli, nely chopped
1 tbs rice vinegar
2 tsp sesame oil
Bring stock back to the boil over high heat.
Add the sage and remaining ginger and
pork bones. Reduce heat to medium and
simmer for 20 minutes or until reduced by
half. Strain through a ne sieve and skim
off any impurities that rise to the surface.
Preheat the oven to 230C. Place pork
loin in a roasting pan, rub with 1 tbs oil,
then sprinkle with salt, massaging it into
the skin. Roast for 40-45 minutes until the
skin is crisp. Reduce heat to 180C. Roast
for a further 1 hour or until pork is cooked
through. Transfer to a platter and set
aside to rest, loosely covered with foil,
for 10 minutes.
Cut apples in half. Melt butter and
sugar in a frypan over medium heat. Cook
apples for 3-4 minutes each side until
caramelised. Cover and keep warm.
For the remoulade, peel the celeriac
and apple and thinly slice into matchsticks.
Place in a bowl lled with water and lemon
juice. In a separate bowl, combine the
mayonnaise, creme fraiche, mustard and
parsley, then season. Drain celeriac and
apple, pat dry with paper towel, then stir
For the stock, place all ingredients in a
saucepan over high heat and bring to the
boil. Reduce heat to medium and simmer
for 15-20 minutes. Add the pork to stock,
ensuring it is fully submerged, cover with
baking paper, then a lid. Reduce heat
to low and simmer for 11/2-2 hours until
tender. Remove the pork from stock
and set aside to cool, reserving stock.
Discard rind and excess fat from pork
and shred meat. Combine with 1/4 cup
(60ml) reserved stock. Cover and set aside.
For the dipping sauce, combine all
ingredients in a bowl with 1/4 cup (60ml)
reserved stock, then set aside.
To make the buns, warm milk in a pan
over low heat, then remove from heat, stir
AUSTRALIAN FLAVOURS.
Crispy pork belly with cashew nut
caramel and pickled watermelon
delicious. 97
in sugar and yeast. Stand for 5 minutes
or until mixture starts to froth.
Place our and 1 tsp salt in a bowl. Make
a well in the centre and add yeast mixture.
Use your hands to form into a dough. Turn
out onto a oured work surface and knead
for 5 minutes until smooth and elastic.
Place dough in an oiled bowl and cover
with plastic wrap. Rest in a warm place
for 30 minutes or until doubled in size.
Divide dough into 16 balls and roll out
to 12cm-wide discs. Place 2 tbs of pork
mixture in the centre of each disc, then
pinch the edges of the dough together
and seal to enclose lling. Sit a large
bamboo steamer over a wok lled with
boiling water. In batches, place buns in the
steamer, cover and steam for 12 minutes
or until cooked through.
Serve immediately with dipping sauce.
CRISPY PORK BELLY WITH
CASHEW NUT CARAMEL
AND PICKLED WATERMELON
SERVES 4 AS A STARTER
1kg boneless pork belly
1/4 cup (60ml) rice wine vinegar
1/4 cup (55g) brown sugar
1/4 watermelon (450g),
cut into 5mm pieces
200g pumpkin, cut into 5mm pieces
1/2 daikon (white Japanese radish),
cut into 5mm pieces
Sunower oil, to deep-fry
2 spring onions, thinly sliced
1 tsp black sesame seeds
Baby shiso and baby coriander
(optional), to serve
CASHEW NUT CARAMEL
3/4
cup (200g) grated palm sugar
cup (35g) toasted cashews
1 garlic clove
1/2 cup sliced ginger
1/2 tbs sh sauce
1 small red chilli, chopped
1 kafr lime leaf
1 tbs lime juice
1/4
98delicious.
Remove skin from pork belly. Sit a large
bamboo steamer over a wok lled with
boiling water. Place pork in the steamer,
cover and steam for 1 hour, topping up
with extra boiling water if necessary.
Remove pork from steamer and place on a
baking tray lined with baking paper. Cover
pork with more baking paper and another
tray, then weigh down with cans and place
in the fridge for at least 2 hours to rm up.
Meanwhile, for the caramel, place palm
sugar and 1/4 cup (60ml) water in a small
pan over medium heat and bring to the
boil. Reduce heat to medium and cook,
swirling the pan to ensure all the sugar
dissolves, for 3-4 minutes until a light
caramel forms. Set aside to cool slightly.
Whiz the cashews in a small food
processor until ne crumbs. Remove
and set aside. Add the garlic, ginger,
sh sauce, chilli, lime leaf and juice to
the food processor and whiz to a paste.
Combine cashew, ginger mixture and
half the caramel in a bowl. Set aside.
Place the rice wine vinegar, brown
sugar and watermelon in a saucepan over
medium heat. Cook for 5 minutes or until
sugar dissolves. Cool. Blanch pumpkin
and daikon in a saucepan of boiling water
for 2 minutes or until tender, drain, then
add to the watermelon mixture.
Remove pork from the fridge and cut
into 2.5cm pieces. Half-ll a deep-fryer
or large saucepan with sunower oil and
heat to 190C (a cube of bread will turn
golden in 30 seconds when the oil is hot
enough). Deep-fry the pork belly, in
batches, for 3-4 minutes until golden
and crisp, then drain on paper towel.
Heat cashew nut caramel in a large
saucepan over medium heat. Toss the
fried pork belly pieces in the warmed
cashew nut caramel, then add remaining
caramel and stir to combine.
Drain watermelon, pumpkin and
daikon, discarding liquid, then combine
with spring onion and sesame seeds.
Garnish with shiso and coriander, if using,
and serve with the pork.
Opening pages (detail): Tony Sly 37cm tarte platter in green, The Bay Tree. Roast pork loin: French horn fully forged carving knife and fork set,
The Bay Tree. Pork pies: English vintage pewter rectangular plate, and Tony Sly 12cm tapas dish in green, both The Bay Tree. Crumbed pork:
English vintage pewter beer mug, The Bay Tree. Crispy pork belly: Tony Sly 37cm tarte platter, as before. For stockist details, see Directory, p 159.
AUSTRALIAN FLAVOURS.
Campbells Real Stock is made from scratch,
gently simmered for 3 hours just like youd make
it. We cook our Chicken Stock with real Australian
grown chicken and vegetables. Because we know
that using the best, real ingredients will bring out
the best flavour in your dish. So why would you use
any other stock?
eastern
Give your palate a wake-up call with Jamies sampler
of Southeast Asian classics, from spicy chilli crab
with roti canai, to crisp, lime-spiked banana fritters.
RECIPES JAMIE OLIVER
100delicious.
PHOTOGRAPHY DAVID LOFTUS
STYLING CHRISTINE MACKENZIE
JAMIE OLIVER.
Murtabak. Opposite:
banana fritters (recipes p 108).
Having spent most
of my time training
in English, French
and Italian cooking,
its really exciting
to experiment
with Asian food.
By adding a few
new ingredients
to your repertoire,
you can capture a
little piece of these
incredible cuisines
at home. Now, I
know theres a
massive difference in the areas, regions
and countries in Southeast Asia, but there
are a few things that seem important
across all of them. You need to get the
hang of balancing the sweet, salty and
sour flavours, the heat of chillies, the
fragrance of lemongrass and ginger, and
that savoury saltiness you get from soy
and fish sauces. It takes subtlety, but if
you get the balance right, it has the power
to transform a plate of ingredients into
something really special.
OTAK-OTAK
MAKES 10
These spicy seafood cakes are cooked
in banana leaves enjoy the parcels
with rice, or on their own as a snack.
You will need 20 toothpicks.
400g skinless salmon, pin-boned,
cut into 1cm pieces
400g green king prawns, peeled,
deveined, roughly chopped
10 banana leaves (from Asian food stores
and selected greengrocers)
1 tbs peanut oil
SPICE PASTE
1 bunch coriander, leaves picked and
reserved, stalks roughly chopped
1 red onion, roughly chopped
4 garlic cloves
11/2 tsp shrimp paste
1 tsp ground turmeric
1 tbs coconut cream
1 tbs soy sauce
2 lemongrass stalks (inner core only),
roughly chopped
3cm piece ginger, roughly chopped
1/3 cup (55g) blanched almonds,
roughly chopped
2 small red chillies, seeds removed
1 tbs peanut oil
DIPPING SAUCE
1 small red chilli, seeds removed,
nely chopped
1 garlic clove, nely chopped
1 spring onion, nely chopped
Juice of 2 limes
For the spice paste, place all the
ingredients in a food processor and whiz
to a paste. Season, then divide between
two bowls. Add the salmon to one bowl
and the prawns to the other. Turn to coat.
Rub the banana leaves with peanut
oil then, working with one leaf at a time
and using tongs, carefully hold each
leaf over a gas stove for 1-2 seconds
until softened (this will make them
easier to roll).
102delicious.
JAMIE OLIVER.
Otak-otak
JAMIE OLIVER.
Cut the banana leaves into 10cm
squares, then divide the prawn and
salmon mixtures into ve portions each.
Place each portion in the middle of a leaf
and roll up. Secure ends with toothpicks.
Place a chargrill pan over medium heat.
Cook the parcels, in batches if necessary,
for 3 minutes each side or until lightly
charred and the lling is cooked through.
Meanwhile, for the dipping sauce,
combine all the ingredients with half the
reserved coriander leaves. Season to taste.
Serve the parcels with the dipping
sauce, spice paste and remaining
coriander leaves on the side.
JAMIES CHILLI CRAB
SERVES 4-6
This is a real treat and best eaten with
your hands dont forget the crab
crackers and nger bowls!
1 large cooked mud crab
(about 1.2kg)
1 bunch coriander, leaves picked,
stalks reserved
4 spring onions, white parts nely
chopped, green parts sliced
into thin matchsticks
2 tbs peanut oil
1 garlic clove, nely chopped
3cm piece ginger, nely grated
1 long red chilli, seeds removed, nely
chopped, plus extra sliced to serve
1/2 tsp cornour, combined with
100ml warm water
Roti canai (optional recipe follows),
to serve
CHILLI SAUCE
1 white onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, chopped
3 small red chillies, chopped
2 lemongrass stalks (inner core only),
bruised, chopped
1 tbs white wine vinegar
1 tsp brown sugar
11/2 tbs tomato paste
1 tbs sweet chilli sauce
1 tsp shrimp paste
104delicious.
To prepare the crab, twist off the legs and
claws. Turn the crab upside-down, hold
both sides and use your thumbs to push
under the central body until it breaks
away. Remove and discard the spongy
gills and pick out any white meat. Scoop
out the brown meat from the main shell
and place in a bowl. Crack the large claws
in half and pick out the meat. Reserve
the legs, claws and meat and discard the
other parts of the crab.
Fill a bowl with iced water and add
the coriander leaves, as well as the sliced
green spring onion this will make the
onion curl up.
For the chilli sauce, whiz all ingredients
in a food processor, along with reserved
coriander stalks, until a rough paste.
Heat 1 tbs oil in a frypan over medium
heat. Cook the chilli sauce for 8-10 minutes
until softened and coloured.
Heat remaining 1 tbs oil in a wok over
medium heat. Add the chopped white
spring onion, garlic, ginger and chilli, and
fry for 10 minutes or until cooked through.
Add the crab legs and claws. Stir in the
chilli sauce and cornour mixture, season
and simmer for 5 minutes, then remove
from the heat and add the crabmeat.
Serve with a good sprinkling of the
drained coriander leaves, green spring
onions and extra chilli, with roti canai for
dipping into the sauce, if using.
ROTI CANAI
MAKES 8
This atbread is found throughout
Southeast Asia, especially in Malaysia,
where it's served with curry.
Begin this recipe 1 day ahead.
Sift the our straight onto a clean work
surface and make a well in the centre.
Pour in the egg mixture, then, using
a fork gradually stirring the liquid into
the our until it forms a dough.
Knead the dough on a lightly oured
work surface and for 5 minutes or until
smooth and elastic.
Grease the work surface with a little
ghee. Roll the dough into a sausage,
then divide it into 8 pieces. Shape each
piece into a ball, rubbing with ghee as you
go. Place the balls on an oiled tray and
cover loosely with plastic wrap. Set aside
in a warm place to prove overnight.
The next day, place a dough ball on an
oiled surface and repeatedly pat it out
with the palm of your hand to make a
20cm disc. Gently stretch it to around
30cm, teasing out the edges (without
breaking the dough) until ultra-thin. Stop
stretching when you see small holes
forming in the edges of the dough.
Brush the dough with a thin layer of
melted ghee, then fold each side into the
middle, like an envelope, brushing with
more ghee as you go. You want to create
a rough square shape. Place on a plate
and repeat with the remaining dough balls.
Heat the sunower oil in a large frypan
over medium heat. Cook the roti, in
batches if necessary, for 2-3 minutes each
side until golden. Carefully remove, then
set aside to cool slightly.
Place the roti with one corner facing
you, then, with one hand either side,
gently and quickly crush the roti, before
turning it 180 degrees and repeating with
the other corners. This will separate the
layers to create a lovely puffy result.
1 large egg, lightly beaten
1 tsp caster sugar
3 cups (450g) plain our
150g ghee, melted, plus extra to grease
2 tbs sunower oil
ROJAK
Combine the egg, sugar and 1 tsp salt in
a bowl, then gradually add 225ml water,
stirring to combine.
1 green mango, peeled,
thinly sliced
125g bean sprouts
SERVES 4-6
Hailing from Malaysia, Singapore and
Indonesia, this salad brings together fruit,
vegetables and crispy tofu.
Jamie's chilli
crab with
roti canai
125g baby spinach leaves
1 bunch radishes, thinly sliced
1 Lebanese cucumber, halved
lengthways, seeds removed,
cut into 1cm pieces
1/2 pineapple, peeled, cored,
cut into 1cm pieces
2 tbs peanut oil
300g rm tofu, cut into 2cm pieces
100g roasted unsalted peanuts
Thinly sliced small red chilli, to serve
DRESSING
1/3
cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil
1 tbs honey
1 tsp sambal oelek (ery Southeast
Asian chilli paste)
1 tsp tamarind puree
1 tsp light brown sugar
Finely grated zest of 1 lime,
plus juice of 2 limes
For the dressing, whisk all the ingredients
in a bowl and season to taste. Transfer
to a jug and set aside.
Combine the mango, sprouts, spinach,
radish, cucumber and pineapple in a bowl.
Heat oil in a frypan over medium heat
and cook the tofu, turning, for 10 minutes
or until deep golden on all sides. Drain on
paper towel. Scatter over salad mixture.
Drizzle over dressing and top with the
roasted peanuts and chilli to serve.
FISH HEAD CURRY
SERVES 6
Get the hang of balancing the sweet,
salty and sour flavours, the heat of chillies,
the fragrance of lemongrass and ginger,
and that savoury saltiness from soy and
fish sauces. If you get the balance right,
it will transform your ingredients into
something special.
106delicious.
1 tbs coconut oil
1 large snapper head and collar
(about 500g)
11/2 tbs ground coriander
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp chilli powder
11/2 tsp ground turmeric
1/2 tsp white pepper
1/4 cup curry leaves
4 large ripe tomatoes, halved,
seeds removed, roughly chopped
400ml can coconut milk
150g okra, thinly sliced into rounds
JAMIE OLIVER.
Rojak. Opposite:
sh head curry
JAMIE OLIVER.
150g pineapple, peeled, cored,
cut into 1cm pieces
Juice of 1 lime, plus extra wedges to serve
Steamed rice, to serve
CURRY PASTE
1 bunch coriander, leaves picked and
reserved, stalks chopped
1 tbs shrimp paste
1 tbs sambal oelek (ery Southeast Asian
chilli paste)
4cm piece ginger, peeled, chopped
2 garlic cloves, peeled
6 spring onions, trimmed
1-2 small red chillies, seeds removed
3 tsp tamarind paste
For the curry paste, combine all the
ingredients, except coriander leaves in a
food processor and whiz to a thick paste.
Place a large ameproof casserole over
medium heat. Add the coconut oil, sh
head, spices and curry leaves, and cook
until the spices are starting to toast and
the sh head browns.
Add the curry paste and cook for
5 minutes or until fragrant, then stir in the
tomatoes and coconut milk. Add the okra,
bring to the boil, then reduce heat to
low and simmer, stirring occasionally, for
10-15 minutes until thickened. Stir through
the pineapple and return to the boil.
Add the lime juice and reserved coriander
leaves, and season to taste. Serve with
steamed rice and extra lime wedges.
MURTABAK
SERVES 8
Youll nd many variations of this stuffed
pancake dish throughout central and
Southeast Asia. This Indian-inspired
version is lled with spiced mince lamb.
Begin this recipe 1 day ahead.
1/2
quantity roti canai (recipe p 104)
cup (80ml) coconut oil
4 white onions, nely chopped
2 garlic cloves, nely chopped
3cm piece ginger, peeled, nely chopped
11/2 tbs mild curry powder
1/3
108delicious.
500g lamb mince
1 tsp caster sugar
1/3 cup curry leaves
1 large egg, lightly beaten
2 tbs ghee, melted, plus extra to brush
1/2 bunch each mint and coriander,
leaves picked, nely chopped
Mixed pickled chillies (optional), to serve
ONION PICKLE
1 red onion, thinly sliced
1 tbs sea salt
1 tbs caster sugar
1 tbs white wine vinegar
Prepare roti canai according to instructions
(p 104). Place the balls on an oiled tray
and cover loosely with plastic wrap. Set
aside in a warm place to prove overnight.
To make the lling, heat 1 tbs coconut oil
in a wok over medium heat. Add the onion,
garlic, ginger and curry powder, and cook
for 5-10 minutes until softened. Add the
lamb, sugar, half the curry leaves and
1 tsp salt, breaking up the meat as it cooks.
Cook for a further 15 minutes or until the
liquid has evaporated and the meat is
browned. Season to taste, remove from
the heat and stir though the beaten egg.
Heat the ghee in a frypan over medium
heat. Fry the remaining curry leaves until
crisp, then remove from pan and set aside.
Place a ball of dough on a work surface
brushed with ghee. Roll out the dough to
form a 30cm square.
Scatter one-eighth of the lamb mixture
over the centre, then fold in each side
tightly to create a 12cm square, brushing
the outside with ghee. Repeat with the
remaining dough and lamb mixture.
Heat another 1 tbs coconut oil in a frypan
over medium heat. Cook 3 parcels,
folded-side up rst, for 6-8 minutes, turning
halfway, until golden and cooked through.
Repeat with remaining 2 tbs oil and parcels.
For the onion pickle, place all the
ingredients in a bowl and season to taste.
Serve murtabak scattered with herbs and
fried curry leaves, with onion pickle and
pickled chillies on the side, if using.
BANANA FRITTERS
SERVES 6
Deep-fried banana is favoured as
a sweet snack everywhere from Macau
to Malaysia, where they make deep-fried
banana balls called cekodok pisang.
You will need 6 bamboo skewers.
6 bananas, peeled
Finely grated zest of 2 limes,
plus lime wedges to serve
Sunower oil, to shallow-fry
Icing sugar, ground cinnamon and
thick Greek-style yoghurt (optional),
to serve
BATTER
1 cup (150g) plain our
1/3 cup (65g) rice our
2 tsp baking powder
Stick a skewer lengthways through the
middle of each banana, with enough
length sticking out so you can easily
grasp it and ensuring it will t into your
frypan, then place on a plate. Sprinkle
over the lime zest.
For the batter, combine all the
ingredients with 1/2 tsp salt in a bowl,
then, whisking constantly, gradually add
11/2 cups (375ml) water until you have a
smooth, thick batter.
Fill a large frypan 4cm deep with
sunower oil and heat to 180C (a cube
of bread will turn golden in 45 seconds
when the oil is hot enough).
In two batches, dip the bananas into
the batter until evenly coated, then
carefully lower into the oil (make sure
you dont overcrowd the pan). Fry the
fritters for 2-3 minutes each side,
until golden and crisp.
Using a slotted spoon, carefully remove
the fritters and drain on paper towel.
Repeat with the remaining fritters.
Set aside to cool slightly.
When ready to serve, dust fritters with
icing sugar and cinnamon. Serve with lime
wedges on the side, with Greek-style
yoghurt, if using.
FASTER FOOD.
10
ONE-TRAY
wonders
Forget the line-up of pots and pans dinner usually
requires. These simple one-tray oven roasts are
your new-season go-to dishes.
RECIPES WARREN MENDES PHOTOGRAPHY PETRINA TINSLAY STYLING VIVIEN WALSH
Quick chicken roast
(recipe p 120)
delicious. 111
BLT Tatin (bacon
& tomato tarte
Tatin with cos salad)
112delicious.
FASTER FOOD.
BLT TATIN (BACON & TOMATO
TARTE TATIN WITH COS SALAD)
SERVES 2-4
250g mixed baby tomatoes, halved
8 streaky bacon rashers
1 sheet frozen butter puff pastry, thawed
1 egg, lightly beaten
1/3 cup (100g) aioli
Finely grated zest and juice of 1/2 lemon
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1 baby cos lettuce, leaves separated
Flat-leaf parsley leaves, to serve
Preheat the oven to 200C. Grease
a 23cm square baking dish.
Squeeze seeds and excess liquid from
tomatoes and discard. Arrange tomato and
bacon over the base of the baking dish.
Season and bake for 10-12 minutes until
bacon is starting to crisp. Place puff pastry
over the top of the bacon and tomatoes,
tucking the edges under. Brush with beaten
egg and return to the oven for 20 minutes
or until golden and puffed. Remove from
oven and set aside to rest for 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, combine aioli, lemon zest
and juice, and mustard in a bowl.
Invert tart onto a serving plate. Serve
topped with lettuce and parsley, with
lemon aioli on the side.
OVEN-STEAMED SOY SALMON
SERVES 4
2 tbs soy sauce
2 tsp sesame oil
4 x 150g salmon llets (skin on), pin-boned
2 spring onions, cut into thin matchsticks
2 long red chillies, seeds removed,
cut into thin matchsticks
4cm piece ginger, cut into thin matchsticks
1 bunch baby bok choy, halved lengthways
200g thin rice noodles (vermicelli)
Juice of 1 lime, plus extra wedges to serve
1/2 tsp caster sugar
2 tsp XO sauce (spicy Chinese sauce)
1 garlic clove, crushed
Preheat the oven to 180C. Combine
1 tbs soy sauce and 1 tsp sesame oil,
and brush over salmon. Place salmon on
one side of a wire rack set in a roasting pan.
Sprinkle half the spring onion, chilli and
ginger over salmon. Place bok choy on the
other side of rack. Pour 1cm boiling water
into pan, then cover pan with foil. Bake for
15 minutes or until salmon is just cooked.
Meanwhile, cook the noodles according
to the packet instructions. Drain, refresh
and set aside.
Combine the lime juice, sugar, XO sauce,
garlic and remaining 1 tbs soy sauce and
1 tsp sesame oil in a bowl.
Divide noodles among bowls and top
with salmon and bok choy. Drizzle with lime
dressing, then top with remaining spring
onion, chilli and ginger. Serve with extra
lime wedges to squeeze over.
FASTER FOOD.
SPANISH KUMARA POCKETS
SERVES 4
4 x 350g kumaras (skin-on)
1 red capsicum, halved lengthways,
seeds removed
2 dried chorizo,
split lengthways
4 unpeeled garlic cloves
2 /3 cup (160g) sour cream
Juice of 1/2 lemon
1 red onion, nely chopped
1/2 bunch at-leaf parsley,
leaves chopped
1 tsp smoked paprika
(pimenton)
Preheat the oven to 200C.
Pierce the kumaras with a fork, then
place on a large baking paper-lined
baking tray. Roast for 50 minutes, then
remove from oven and add the capsicum,
skin-side up, chorizo and garlic to the
tray. Roast for a further 20 minutes
or until kumaras are cooked through
and chorizo is crisp.
Remove and discard capsicum skin,
then slice into thin strips. Thinly slice
the chorizo. Set aside.
Squeeze garlic from their skins and
mash with the sour cream and lemon juice.
Slice kumaras lengthways, leaving
them attached to form a pocket. Spoon
in the garlic sour cream, then top with
capsicum, chorizo, onion, parsley and
paprika. Drizzle over any remaining
chorizo oil from the tray to serve.
ROASTED MUSHROOM & HALOUMI
SALAD WITH CRISPY LENTILS
SERVES 4
400g can lentils, rinsed, drained
250g haloumi, thinly sliced
4 portobello mushrooms,
stalks removed
Olive oil, to drizzle
Juice of 1 lemon
200g green beans, trimmed, blanched
150g mixed salad leaves (mesclun)
2 tsp pink peppercorns,
lightly crushed
Spinach pesto
cup (25g) grated parmesan
50g baby spinach leaves
1/2 cup (50g) walnuts, chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed
100ml extra virgin olive oil
1/3
Preheat oven to 200C. Line a baking tray
with baking paper. Place lentils in a pile
at one end of tray, and place haloumi slices
and mushrooms, stalk-side up, at the other
end. Drizzle with oil and season. Roast for
25 minutes or until mushrooms are tender,
haloumi is golden and lentils are crisp.
Remove tray from oven. Set aside.
Meanwhile, for the pesto, combine all
the ingredients in a small food processor
and whiz to a smooth paste. Set aside.
Carefully pour the roasting juices from
the mushroom cups into a small bowl.
Add lemon juice and whisk to combine to
make a dressing. Slice the mushrooms.
Combine mushroom, beans, leaves,
haloumi and lentils in a bowl. Drizzle with
dressing, spoon over pesto and scatter
with peppercorns to serve.
Roasted mushroom
& haloumi salad
with crispy lentils
delicious. 115
MISO BUTTER SNAPPER
WITH BROCCOLINI
Juice of 1/2 lime
Thinly sliced spring onion, to garnish
SERVES 2
1 tbs white miso paste
25g softened unsalted butter
2 x 180g skinless snapper llets
1 tsp sesame oil
2 small red chillies, thinly sliced,
plus extra thinly sliced to serve
1 tbs each soy sauce and peanut oil
2 bunches broccolini, halved
lengthways
150g mixed shimeji and enoki
mushrooms, stalks trimmed
1 tsp sesame seeds
116delicious.
Preheat the oven to 200C. Line a baking
dish with baking paper.
Combine miso and butter, then spread
over snapper. Combine sesame oil, chilli,
soy sauce and peanut oil in a bowl. Add
broccolini, mushrooms and sesame
seeds, toss to combine, then spread over
the base of prepared baking dish. Top
with snapper. Roast for 18-20 minutes
until snapper is just cooked and the
broccolini is tender.
To serve, squeeze over lime juice and
scatter with spring onion and extra chilli.
FASTER FOOD.
QUICK ROAST BEEF WITH CHILLI
PARMESAN CAULIFLOWER
SERVES 4
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 tbs nely chopped sage leaves
1/3 cup (80ml) olive oil
2 tbs caramelised balsamic vinegar
800g beef eye llet, trimmed,
tied at 3cm intervals
1 small cauliower, cut into orets
1/2 cup (40g) grated parmesan
1 long red chilli, nely chopped
150g wild rocket leaves
Juice of 1 lemon
Preheat the oven to 200C.
Combine garlic, sage, 1 tbs oil and
1 tbs caramelised balsamic in a bowl.
Add the beef and turn to coat. Place beef
at one end of a baking paper-lined baking
tray. Spread the cauliower over the
rest of the tray and drizzle with 2 tbs oil.
Roast for 15 minutes, then remove tray
from oven and sprinkle cauliower with
the parmesan, chilli and remaining
1 tbs caramelised balsamic. Return the
tray to the oven and roast for a further
12-15 minutes until cauliower is golden
and beef is cooked to medium. Rest beef,
loosely covered with foil, for 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, toss the cauliower with
the rocket. In a separate bowl, whisk
lemon juice, beef resting juices and
remaining 1 tbs oil. Drizzle over the
cauliower salad.
Thinly slice the beef. Divide salad
among bowls and top with beef to serve.
FASTER FOOD.
Roast lamb koftas
with pumpkin and
crisp couscous
ROAST LAMB KOFTAS
WITH PUMPKIN AND
CRISP COUSCOUS
SERVES 4
11/2 cups (300g) instant couscous
2 tbs olive oil, plus extra to drizzle
1 tsp each cumin and coriander seeds
2 tsp sumac
300g each pork and beef mince
3 garlic cloves, crushed
1/4 cup chopped mint leaves,
plus extra whole leaves to serve
1 small onion, grated
600g Kent pumpkin, cut into 2cm wedges
2 tbs honey
1 cup (280g) thick Greek-style yoghurt
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
Preheat oven to 200C. Place couscous
in a heatproof bowl and stir through
1 tbs oil. Season, then add 11/2 cups
(375ml) boiling water. Cover with plastic
wrap and set aside for 5 minutes or until
the liquid is absorbed.
To make the koftas, using a mortar and
pestle, lightly crush cumin and coriander
seeds and 1 tsp sumac. Combine pork
and beef mince, garlic, chopped mint,
onion, spice mixture and remaining
1 tbs oil. Season, then roll mixture into
16 walnut-sized balls. Fluff the couscous
with a fork, then spread over the base of a
roasting dish. Add pumpkin and meatballs
to the dish, then drizzle with honey and
extra oil. Roast for 30 minutes or until
pumpkin is tender and meatballs are
browned and cooked through.
Combine yoghurt and lemon zest and
juice. Drizzle over the dish and sprinkle
with remaining 1 tsp sumac. Scatter with
extra mint leaves to serve.
OVEN-BAKED PRAWN RIGATONI
SERVES 4
400g rigatoni
2 cups (500ml) sh stock
2 garlic cloves, chopped
1 tbs chopped oregano leaves
16 large green prawns, peeled
(tails intact), deveined
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
1 cup (120g) frozen peas
2 tbs extra virgin olive oil
125g soft goats cheese
1/2 bunch chives, snipped
Preheat the oven to 200C.
Place the pasta, sh stock, garlic, oregano
and 2 cups (500ml) hot water into a 3L
(12-cup-capacity) casserole dish. Cover with
a lid and bake for 20 minutes, then remove
from oven and add prawns, lemon juice and
peas. Cover and cook for a further 15 minutes
or until the pasta is al dente and the prawns
are cooked through. Season.
Drizzle with oil and scatter with goats
cheese, chives and lemon zest to serve.
delicious. 119
QUICK CHICKEN ROAST
SERVES 4
6 thyme sprigs, leaves picked
4 anchovies in oil, drained, chopped
2 tsp dried oregano
1 tsp chilli akes
2 tbs olive oil
2 garlic cloves, chopped
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon
8 chicken thighs (bone in, skin on)
800g baby kiper potatoes,
halved lengthways
100g speck or streaky bacon,
cut into 5mm-thick batons
250g baby truss tomatoes
add to the tray. Season and roast for
40 minutes or until chicken is golden
and potatoes tender. Remove from the
oven and top with tomatoes. Roast for
a further 10-15 minutes until tomatoes
are blistered.
Squeeze over roasted lemon juice
to serve.
HARISSA LAMB WITH ROAST
CARROTS AND QUINOA PILAF
SERVES 4
Yes, you caught us, this recipe has two
trays, but both trays cook at the same
time, for a quick and easy meal.
1/4
Preheat the oven to 200C.
Combine the thyme, anchovies,
oregano, chilli, oil, garlic and lemon
zest in a bowl. Add the chicken and
turn to coat. Add the potatoes and
toss to combine. Place on a large
baking tray and scatter over the speck.
Cut the zested lemon into wedges and
120delicious.
cup (60ml) olive oil
3 garlic cloves, crushed
Finely grated zest of 1/2 lemon
3 tsp ground cumin
11/2 tbs harissa
2 x 6-cutlet untrimmed lamb racks,
fat scored
1 bunch baby (Dutch) carrots
11/4 cups (250g) quinoa, rinsed, drained
1 cup (250ml) chicken stock
400g can chickpeas, rinsed, drained
Coriander leaves, to serve
Preheat the oven to 190C. Line a baking
tray with baking paper.
Combine oil, garlic, lemon zest, 2 tsp
cumin, 1 tbs harissa and 2 tsp salt in a
bowl, then rub over the lamb. Place the
carrots on baking tray and top with lamb.
Roast for 40 minutes for medium or until
cooked to your liking. Remove from oven
and rest lamb, loosely covered with foil,
for 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, to make the quinoa pilaf,
combine quinoa, stock, chickpeas,
remaining 1 tsp cumin, 1/2 tbs harissa,
1 tsp salt and 3/4 cup (185ml) hot water
in an ovenproof dish. Cover with foil and
roast on the bottom shelf (underneath
the lamb) for 25 minutes or until all the
liquid is absorbed. Transfer to a serving
bowl. Drizzle over the lamb resting juices.
Scatter lamb with coriander and serve
with carrots and quinoa pilaf.
FASTER FOOD.
Harissa lamb with
roast carrots and
quinoa pilaf
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WICKED.
the dark SIDE
Resistance is futile. These decadent chocolate desserts are the ideal x for every
occasion over Easter or at any other time you want to cross over to the dark side.
RECIPES VALLI LITTLE & WARREN MENDES
124delicious.
PHOTOGRAPHY JEREMY SIMONS & PETRINA TINSLAY
STYLING VIVIEN WALSH
Salted chocolate tart
with candied mandarin.
Opposite: Nutella
cheesecake with
chocolate mirror glaze
(recipes p 128).
WICKED.
MARZIPAN, PEAR & DARK
CHOCOLATE CAKE WITH
POACHED PEARS
SERVES 6-8
250g softened unsalted butter
250g marzipan, softened
315g caster sugar
1/4 tsp almond extract
1/4 tsp vanilla extract
6 eggs
1 cup (150g) self-raising our
1 cup (100g) almond meal
1 tsp ground cardamom
2 ripe pears, chopped
2 /3 cup (120g) dark chocolate chips
8 paradise pears
1 lemon, halved
2 cups (500ml) red wine
1 vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped
Know your chocolate
Sweet, bitter, spiced and creamy there is a wide world of chocolate out there.
We spoke to chocolate authority Willie Harcourt-Cooze to get the scoop.
WHITE CHOCOLATE
Dark forces have
been ruining the
reputation of white
chocolate for
years, says Willie.
As white doesnt
contain cocoa
solids, its arguably
not chocolate.
High-quality white
choc made purely
from milk solids,
sugar and cocoa
butter is available,
however. Its my
favourite thing to
dip into espresso,
adds Willie.
MILK CHOCOLATE
Milk chocolate has
a mild, creamy
avour due to the
high level of milk
solids and low
amount of cocoa
solids (only about
10-20 per cent)
it contains.
DARK CHOCOLATE
Made with a high
content of cocoa
solids and no, or
very little, milk,
dark chocolate is
classied as sweet,
semi-sweet,
bittersweet or
unsweetened,
depending on the
amount of cocoa
added. Desserts
usually call for
70 per cent dark
chocolate, to get
sufcient avour,
says Willie.
COUVERTURE
Couverture refers
to the nest quality
chocolate. It is
produced with
a high percentage
of cocoa butter,
giving it a creamy
avour, more sheen
and a rmer snap
when broken.
Preheat the oven to 170C. Grease
and lightly our a 25cm bundt pan.
Place butter, marzipan and 2/3 cup
(150g) sugar in the bowl of an electric
mixer tted with a paddle attachment.
Beat for 3-4 minutes on medium speed
until creamy. Add almond and vanilla
extracts, then add the eggs, 1 at a time,
beating well after each addition. Fold in
our, almond meal and cardamom. Gently
fold through chopped pears and chocolate
chips, then spread into pan. Bake for
40-45 minutes until a skewer inserted
comes out clean. Cool slightly, then turn
out onto a wire rack to cool completely.
Meanwhile, peel and core the paradise
pears, leaving stalks intact, then rub the
esh with the cut lemon halves. Place wine,
vanilla pod and seeds, and remaining
3/4 cup (165g) sugar in a pan over low
heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves.
Add pears and enough water until pears
are just covered. Poach for 15-20 minutes
until tender (this will depend on the
ripeness of the fruit). Remove pears with
a slotted spoon and set aside. Return
poaching liquid in pan to medium-low
heat and simmer for 10 minutes or until
syrupy and reduced by half. Pour over
the pears, then set aside to cool.
Fill the hollow of the cake with poached
pears and drizzle with syrup to serve.
Marzipan, pear & dark chocolate
cake with poached pears
delicious. 127
WICKED.
WITH CANDIED MANDARIN
NUTELLA CHEESECAKE WITH
CHOCOLATE MIRROR GLAZE
SERVES 6
SERVES 6-8
435g packet Careme Vanilla Bean
Sweet Shortcrust pastry or
11/2 sheets shortcrust pastry
2 mandarins, plus the nely grated
zest and juice of 1 extra mandarin
11/2 cups (375ml) thickened cream
300g dark chocolate, chopped
75g softened unsalted butter
2 tbs Grand Marnier or other
orange-avoured liqueur
1 cup (220g) caster sugar
250g chocolate biscuits, crushed (we
used Arnotts Choc Ripple biscuits)
120g unsalted butter, melted
1/2 cup (110g) caster sugar
2 tbs plain our
500g cream cheese
1 tsp vanilla extract
4 eggs
300ml thickened cream
200g Nutella or other
choc-hazelnut spread
2 /3 cup (100g) hazelnuts, roasted,
skins removed, crushed
PEANUT BUTTER & MILK
CHOCOLATE TERRINE
WITH PEANUT BRITTLE
SERVES 6-8
Grease a 12cm x 36cm rectangular
loose-bottomed tart pan.
Place the pastry on a lightly oured
surface. Scatter over mandarin zest, then,
using a rolling pin, lightly press zest into
the pastry. Use pastry to line the pan,
trimming any excess. Chill for 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 180C. Line the
pastry shell with baking paper and ll
with pastry weights. Bake for 15 minutes,
then remove weights and paper. Bake
for a further 5 minutes or until dry.
Place the cream in a small saucepan
over medium heat and bring to just below
boiling point. Place the chocolate and
1 tsp sea salt akes in a heatproof bowl
and pour over the hot cream. Set aside
for 2-3 minutes to melt, then whisk to
combine, adding the butter, a little
at a time, until combined. Add the
mandarin juice and Grand Marnier
and stir to combine. Pour into pastry
shell, then chill for 2 hours.
Meanwhile, to make candied mandarin,
thinly slice remaining 2 mandarins and
set aside. Place sugar and 1 cup (250ml)
water in a large frypan over medium heat.
Bring to a simmer, then add mandarin
slices. Reduce heat to low and cook
for 6-7 minutes until softened. Using a
slotted spoon, remove from pan and cool
on a wire rack. Return syrup to medium
heat and cook for a further 2-3 minutes
until slightly reduced. Cool slightly.
Arrange mandarin slices over tart,
drizzle with syrup and scatter with
extra sea salt akes to serve.
128delicious.
CHOCOLATE MIRROR GLAZE
1 titanium-strength gelatine leaf
120g caster sugar
1 tbs golden syrup
3/4 cup (75g) cocoa powder
1/4 cup (60ml) pure (thin) cream
Preheat the oven to 140C. Grease
and line the base and side of a 23cm
springform cake pan.
Combine crushed biscuits and butter,
then press into the base of the prepared
pan. Chill for 30 minutes or until rm.
Using an electric mixer, beat sugar, our,
and cream cheese for 3-4 minutes until
smooth. Add vanilla, eggs and cream, and
beat for 1-2 minutes until combined. Add
Nutella and beat for 2-3 minutes until
smooth. Spread mixture into pan. Bake for
1 hour or until almost set in the centre. Turn
off oven. Leave cheesecake in oven, with
the door ajar, for 2 hours or until cooled
completely. Chill for 1 hour or until set.
For glaze, soak gelatine in cold water for
5 minutes to soften. Place sugar, golden
syrup and 1/4 cup (60ml) water in a pan
over low heat, stirring until sugar dissolves.
Bring to the boil, and cook for 1 minute,
then whisk in cocoa and cream. Return to
medium heat. Cook, stirring, for a further
1 minute or until smooth. Squeeze excess
water from gelatine, then add to mixture,
stirring until dissolved. Strain and set aside.
To serve, pour warm glaze over
cheesecake and scatter with hazelnuts.
300g milk chocolate
1/2 cup (140g) peanut butter
3/4 cup (180ml) milk
600ml thickened cream
50g dark chocolate, melted, cooled
PEANUT BRITTLE
2 cups (300g) roasted unsalted peanuts
2 cups (440g) caster sugar
75g unsalted butter
Line a 1L (4-cup) terrine with plastic wrap,
leaving enough overhanging the sides to
cover the surface.
Melt milk chocolate in a heatproof bowl
set over a pan of simmering water (dont let
the bowl touch the water), stirring until
smooth. Set aside to cool slightly. Transfer
to the bowl of an electric mixer with the
peanut butter. Beat on medium-low speed
for 1-2 minutes to combine. Place milk and
1/4 tsp salt in a small pan over medium heat
and bring to a simmer. Beating slowly,
gradually add the milk to the chocolate
mixture until combined. Beat for a further
5 minutes or until thick and creamy. In
a separate bowl, whisk the cream to soft
peaks, then fold into the chocolate mixture.
Spread evenly into the prepared terrine.
Freeze for 4 hours or until set.
Meanwhile, for the brittle, line a baking
tray with baking paper, then spread
peanuts over the centre. Combine the
sugar and 1 cup (250ml) water in a small
saucepan over medium-low heat, stirring
until sugar dissolves. Increase heat to
high, bring to the boil, then cook for
10-15 minutes until a golden caramel.
Remove from heat and stir in the butter.
Immediately pour over the peanuts,
then set aside for 3 hours or until set.
Crush the peanut brittle with a rolling
pin into 1cm pieces. Carefully invert the
terrine onto a serving platter, gently
pulling on the plastic wrap to remove
terrine. Serve slices scattered with
crushed peanut brittle and drizzled
with melted dark chocolate.
Peanut butter & milk chocolate
terrine with peanut brittle
WICKED.
Caramelised white
chocolate ice cream &
brownie sandwiches.
Opposite: mile-high
chocolate meringue
pie (recipes p 132).
130delicious.
WICKED.
CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM
& BROWNIE SANDWICHES
MAKES 6 SANDWICHES
Begin this recipe 1 day ahead.
300g white chocolate, chopped
395g can sweetened condensed milk
600ml thickened cream
100g dark chocolate, melted, cooled
BROWNIE COOKIES
2 eggs
2 cups (300g) pure icing sugar, sifted
1 cup (100g) almond meal
1/2 cup (50g) cocoa powder, sifted
200g dark chocolate, melted, cooled
100g unsalted butter, melted
Preheat the oven to 125C.
To make the ice cream, place white
chocolate in a baking dish and bake,
stirring chocolate around the dish every
15 minutes, for 11/2 hours or until golden.
Cool slightly, then transfer to an electric
mixer with condensed milk and thickened
cream. Beat on medium-high speed for
3-4 minutes until soft peaks form. Pour
into a 1.5L container and freeze overnight.
The next day, preheat the oven
to 180C and line 2 baking trays with
baking paper.
For the cookies, place all ingredients
in a bowl and stir until combined. Roll
into 12 equal-sized balls, then place,
4cm apart, on trays. Flatten slightly with
the back of a spoon. Bake for 12 minutes
or until just cooked. Cool slightly on a
wire rack (cookies should be eaten warm).
Remove ice cream 15 minutes before you
serve to thaw slightly.
Sandwich scoops of ice cream between
two brownie cookies to serve.
MILE-HIGH CHOCOLATE
MERINGUE PIE
SERVES 6-8
You will need a kitchen blowtorch.
300g packet Careme Dark Chocolate
Shortcrust Pastry
1/4 cup (25g) cocoa powder
2 tbs plain our
132delicious.
1 tbs cornour
375ml can evaporated milk
1/2 cup (125ml) thickened cream
5 eggs, separated
2 cups (440g) caster sugar
1 tsp vanilla extract
50g unsalted butter, chopped
2 tbs creme de cacao (optional)
Preheat the oven to 180C. Grease a
23cm x 4cm-deep loose-bottomed tart
pan. Use pastry to line pan, trimming any
excess. Chill for 15 minutes, then line with
baking paper and ll with pastry weights.
Bake for 10 minutes, then remove the
weights and paper. Bake for a further
5 minutes or until dry. Set aside to cool.
Place cocoa, our, cornour, evaporated
milk, cream, egg yolks and 2 /3 cup (150g)
sugar in a pan over low heat. Whisking
constantly, cook for 4-5 minutes until
smooth. Remove from heat and whisk in
vanilla, butter and creme da cacao, if using,
to combine. Pour mixture into pie case and
allow to cool. Chill for 2-3 hours until set.
Whisk the eggwhites and remaining
11/3 cups (295g) sugar in a heatproof
bowl until combined. Set over a pan of
simmering water (dont let the bowl touch
the water) and whisk for 3 minutes or until
thickened. Place in the bowl of an electric
mixer and whisk on medium-high speed
for 5 minutes or until glossy and cooled.
Pile meringue over tart lling. Using a
kitchen blowtorch, brown the meringue
until golden.
BAKED BUTTERMILK DOUGHNUTS
WITH WHISKY CHOCOLATE GLAZE
(COVER RECIPE)
MAKES 10
100ml milk, plus extra to brush
200g dark chocolate
21/2 tbs whisky
2 /3 cup (150g) caster sugar
2 tsp ground cinnamon
Chopped almonds and shaved dark
chocolate, to serve
DOUGHNUTS
21/2 tsp dried instant yeast
1/4 cup (60ml) milk, warmed
2 /3
cup (150g) caster sugar
31/4 cups (485g) plain our
2 /3 cup (165ml) buttermilk
1 egg, lightly beaten
40g unsalted butter, melted,
cooled slightly
For the doughnuts, combine yeast
and warm milk with a pinch of sugar
in a bowl. Set aside for 10 minutes or
until frothy. Combine the our and
remaining sugar with a pinch of salt
in the bowl of an electric mixer tted
with a dough hook. Gradually add
the yeast mixture, buttermilk, egg
and butter, and knead on low speed
for 5 minutes or until smooth and
elastic. Place dough in an oiled bowl
(the dough will be quite wet), cover
with plastic wrap and set aside in
a warm place for 1-11/2 hours until
doubled in size.
Turn out the dough onto a oured
work surface and knock down. Roll into
a sausage and cut into 10 equal-sized
pieces. Roll each piece of dough into a
smooth ball. Divide between two baking
paper-lined baking trays. Lightly atten
each ball into a 9cm disk. Using a 3.5cm
round cutter, cut out centres of dough and
discard. Lightly cover doughnuts with oiled
plastic wrap. Set aside in a warm place for
a further 1 hour or until risen.
Preheat the oven to 200C. Baking one
tray at a time, bake the doughnuts for
8-9 minutes until light golden and cooked
through. Remove from oven and transfer
to a wire rack to cool slightly.
Meanwhile, for the glaze, combine
milk, chocolate, whisky and 1 tbs sugar
in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of
gently simmering water (dont let the
bowl touch the water), stirring until
melted and combined. Remove from
heat. Cool slightly.
Combine cinnamon and remaining
sugar in a bowl. Wet a pastry brush
with milk, then brush over doughnuts.
Toss the doughnuts in sugar mixture,
then dip the tops in glaze.
Serve doughnuts warm, sprinkled with
almonds and shaved chocolate, with any
remaining glaze on the side.
Baked buttermilk
doughnuts with
whisky chocolate glaze
escape
delicious. 135
GLOBAL FLAVOURS.
back to ANATOLIA
In his new cookbook, Anatolia: Adventures in Turkish Cooking,
Sydney chef Somer Sivrioglu, with writer David Dale, casts his
net wide to capture one of the great cuisines of the world.
PHOTOGRAPHY BREE HUTCHENS
The Aegean village of Turkbuku,
where geese, normally conned to
fresh water, have been breeding in
salt water since they were left at the
beach by Somers stepfather in 1995.
delicious. 137
GLOBAL FLAVOURS.
Spoon salad (recipe p 140). Left: Somer
Sivrioglu outside the Istanbul apartment
block where he grew up.
the wild weeds, fruits, vegetables and
greens he could use. During that visit,
Musa made the best sumac salad Id
ever eaten using an Australian native
Davidson plum instead of sumac.
He showed me that Turkish cooking
is less about particular ingredients and
more about philosophy. Its about sitting
at a table in a Black Sea village, sharing
a plate of Armenian topik [vegetarian
meatballs] Kurdish kebap, Jewish boyoz
[lled pastry] and Greek taramasalata,
and washing down the meal with a glass of raki or ayran. Its
about the ways different cultures have taken advantage of
the abundance of produce in the area now called Anatolia.
In Australia, Im regarded as a Turkish chef with a modern
representation. I think Im simply doing what the peoples of
Anatolia have done for millennia getting the best out of local
produce with techniques tested and proved by my ancestors.
We called this book Anatolia because that word best conveys
the history and diversity of a land that only started using the
term Turkiye in the 11th century, and only became the Turkish
Republic in 1923. The word is used to show that our book
includes the delicious Arab, Armenian, Assyrian, Balkan, Greek,
Jewish, Kurdish and Romany contributions to the way Turks eat.
Turkish cooking is less about
particular ingredients and more about
philosophy. Its about sitting at a table in
a Black Sea village, sharing a plate of
Armenian topik, Kurdish kebap, Jewish
boyoz and Greek taramasalata.
I LANDED IN AUSTRALIA in 1995. Living close to Chinatown,
and eating every cuisine but my own, I re-learned the value of
a multicultural society and its contribution to national happiness.
Fast-forward to 2007 and I am married to my beautiful wife
Asli. Just after we had our second baby, we opened our rst
restaurant, serving what I imagined to be modern Turkish
cuisine. My rst menu included okra in trufe oil, crab manti
[ravioli-like dumplings] and Turkish-coffee creme brulee.
My mind was opened by a visit to Sydney from my culinary
hero, Musa Dagdeviren, from the world-famous Ciya restaurant
in Kadikoy [Istanbuls shmarket district]. I apologised that
Australian ingredients would be limiting. He asked me if there
was a Chinatown in Sydney and soon he was showing me all
138delicious.
Clockwise from left: one of Musa
Dagdevirens three Ciya restaurants in
Istanbul; saffron-layered rice pudding (recipe
p 140); view over the Galata Tower and
Old City, Istanbul; the city's spice market.
GLOBAL FLAVOURS.
SERVES 4
You will nd mastic crystals, geranium
water and candied chickpeas in Middle
Eastern food shops.
1/2
cup (100g) medium-grain rice,
rinsed, drained
1 piece mastic crystal,
crushed to a powder
1 tbs caster sugar
3 cups (750ml) milk
2 tbs rice our
Candied or roasted chickpeas and
pomegranate seeds (optional),
to serve
SAFFRON TOPPING
1 pinch saffron threads
1 drop geranium oil or rosewater
1 tbs currants
1/4 cup (50g) medium-grain rice,
rinsed, drained
1/2 cup (110g) caster sugar
2 tbs rice our
1 tbs pine nuts, toasted
To make the rice pudding, combine rice
and 100ml water in a pan over medium
heat and bring to a simmer. Reduce
heat to medium-low, cover and cook for
8 minutes or until the water is absorbed.
Remove from the heat, straining any
excess liquid from rice. Return rice to pan
with mastic, sugar and milk. Place over
medium heat and bring to a simmer.
Combine rice our with 1/2 cup (125ml)
hot milk mixture in a small bowl (this will
ensure there are no lumps), then return to
pan. Add a pinch of salt, reduce heat to
medium-low and cook, stirring constantly,
for 10 minutes or until thickened. Remove
pan from heat and set aside to cool for
5 minutes. Divide the rice pudding among
four 1-cup (250ml) glasses, cool to room
temperature, then chill for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, for the topping, place
saffron in a bowl and cover with 1/4 cup
(60ml) warm water. Stir in geranium oil and
set aside to infuse for 20 minutes. Discard
saffron threads and set liquid aside. Cover
the currants in warm water, stand for
10 minutes, then strain and set aside.
Combine rice and 1/2 cup (125ml) water in
a saucepan over medium heat. Bring to
the boil, then reduce heat to medium-low
and simmer for 8 minutes. Add another
11/2 cups (375ml) water and half the sugar.
Return to a simmer and cook for 3 minutes,
stirring until sugar dissolves. Strain 1 cup
(250ml) of rice cooking liquid, discarding
remaining rice, and combine with the rice
our in a bowl, whisking until combined
and smooth. Return rice our mixture to
the pan and add remaining 1/4 cup (55g)
caster sugar. Cook over medium heat for
5 minutes, then add saffron-infused liquid
and simmer for a further 5 minutes or until
starting to thicken. Add currants and pine
nuts, remove from heat and leave to cool.
Cover the chilled rice puddings with
saffron topping, then chill for a further
1 hour. Decorate with chickpeas and
pomegranate seeds, if using, to serve.
2 tomatoes
1 red capsicum
75g capsicum paste (salca)
5 garlic cloves, chopped
1/2 bunch at-leaf parsley, leaves chopped
2 tsp chilli akes
200g lamb mince
SPOON SALAD
RED ONION & SUMAC SALAD
SERVES 4
1/2
This is served with kebabs all over Turkey.
3 green bullhorn peppers
or 1 green capsicum
1 long green chilli
6 truss tomatoes, seeds removed,
nely chopped
1 red onion, nely chopped
1 bunch mint, leaves nely chopped
1/2 bunch at-leaf parsley,
leaves nely chopped
1 cup (115g) walnuts,
nely chopped
1 tbs sumac
2 tbs pomegranate molasses
1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil
1 tsp apple cider vinegar
1/2 cup (150g) pomegranate seeds
Halve the peppers and chilli lengthways,
then remove the seeds and stalks.
Finely chop, then combine in a bowl
with the tomatoes, onion, mint, parsley
and walnuts.
Combine the sumac, pomegranate
molasses, olive oil, vinegar and 1 tsp salt.
When ready to serve, pour dressing over
the salad and toss to combine. Sprinkle
with the pomegranate seeds to serve.
THIN-CRUST PIDE WITH SPICY
LAMB TOPPING (LAHMACUN)
SERVES 4
This pizza-style pide is a specialty of the
town of Sanliurfa in southeastern Turkey,
where they pride themselves on the
crispness of their bases. Capsicum paste is
available from Middle Eastern food shops.
11/3 cups (200g) plain our,
plus extra to dust
1/2 cup (70g) wholemeal our, to dust
TOPPING
red onion, nely chopped
1 tbs sumac
Juice of 1/2 lemon, plus extra lemon
wedges to serve
1 tbs extra virgin olive oil
Preheat oven to its maximum temperature
(as close to 300C as possible), with 2 large
baking trays placed on the middle and
bottom shelves.
Sift the plain our into a large mixing
bowl and add 1 tsp salt. Make a well in
the centre and slowly add 1/2 cup (125ml)
lukewarm water. Using your hands, mix
to a rm dough. Add a little extra water,
1 tbs at a time, if the dough is too dry.
Knead the dough for 5 minutes or until it
is smooth and elastic. Sprinkle some our
on your work surface, turn out the dough,
then divide into 4 even-sized balls. Cover
with a damp cloth, then set aside to rest
for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, score a shallow cross in the
base of the tomatoes, then transfer to
a heatproof bowl and cover with boiling
water. Leave for 30 seconds, drain the
tomatoes, then plunge in cold water and
drain again. Peel the skin away from the
cross. Cut the tomato in half widthways
and remove the seeds. Roughly chop
Clockwise from above left:
gozleme, made popular by
the Yoruk people from the
mountains; shing from
Istanbuls Galata Bridge;
thin-crust pide with spicy lamb
topping (lahmacun).
the tomato esh. Remove seeds from the
capsicum and roughly chop. Place tomato
and capsicum in a food processor with
the capsicum paste, garlic, parsley, chilli
akes, 1 tsp ground black pepper and
1 tsp salt and pulse to a coarse paste.
Add the mixture to the lamb mince in
a bowl and stir thoroughly to combine.
Dust 4 sheets of baking paper with
wholemeal our. Place a ball of dough on
a oured work surface and roll out to a
5mm-thick, 25cm round. Place on oured
baking paper. Dust top with wholemeal
our. Repeat with the remaining dough
balls. Thinly spread lamb mixture over the
rounds, pressing in with your hands.
Carefully transfer 2 rounds on their paper
to the preheated baking trays and cook
for 10-12 minutes until the edges are crisp.
Repeat with the remaining 2 rounds.
Meanwhile, for the salad, place onion in
a bowl. Sprinkle with sumac and 1 tsp salt,
add the lemon juice and olive oil, then mix
together with your hands.
Sprinkle the red onion and sumac salad
over the lahmacuns and serve with lemon
wedges to squeeze over.
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delicious. 141
INSIDER.
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ayersrockresort.com UHeritage-listed
Boyd Baker House, designed in 1965
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Daylesford and Bacchus Marsh, is now for rent through airbnb.com.au.
WORDS SALLY FELDMAN
UNamed one of Conde Nast Travelers
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I I
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Heading out of town for the weekend? Pack your overnighter
with a few stylish accoutrements, then relax and enjoy the ride.
STYLING MEGAN MORTON
PHOTOGRAPHY JASON BUSCH
1. Napoleon complex skin renewal serum, $85 (40ml), napoleonperdis.com. 2. Conte A Paris Limited Edition
crayon tin set, $9.95, eckersleys.com.au. 3. Ted Baker Brogue manicure set, $59.95, shop.until.com.au. 4. Sisley
Paris Phyto-Touche Illusion dt gel bronzing powder, $120, davidjones.com.au. 5. Mor Galaxy Emporium
Travel Set in Blood Orange (candle only shown), $34.97, myer.com.au. 6. The Aromatherapy Company natural
clothing soap, $13.95 (150g), davidjones.com.au. 7. Apple 2GB iPod Shufe in silver, $55, apple.com/au.
8. Jax Coco coconut water, $89.95 (24-pack, 250ml), jaxcoco.com.au. 9. Jo Malone Wood Sage & Sea Salt
cologne, $180 (100ml), jomalone.com.au. 10. My Red Lippy Panama hat in classic white with black ribbon, $240,
myredlippy.com. 11. Oroton Milano long-sleeve knit in Beige Melange, $345, oroton.com.au. 12. Tom Ford
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INSIDER.
TO MARKET
OPERATION CHOCOLATE
Nearby, at rue Mercerie 3, is artisan chocolate
shop Durig, which makes some of the best in
the country all housemade, fair trade and
organic. Blondel (rue du Bourg 5), is another
revered chocolatier.
24 hours in
LAUSANNE
This historic city by Lake Geneva is worth its weight
in gold (and chocolate) writes Yasmin Newman.
SMELL THE ROSES
Soak up the sun in the rose-lled courtyard at
LEsquisse (Route du Signal 2). The cafe, with
picturesque views over the city, is situated in
the lush gardens of art museum La Fondation
de lHermitage. Immerse yourself in the
latest Impressionist exhibition after a coffee
(or excellent brunch), or just take a park stroll.
BEST TEST KITCHEN
For Swiss ne dining on a budget, lunch
on a daily changing ve-course menu at
Le Berceau des Sens (Route de Cojonnex 18)
the training restaurant for students at elite
hotel school Ecole hoteliere de Lausanne.
WINE COUNTRY
Take a half-hour drive to Lavaux, the UNESCO
World Heritage Site, for an afternoon of wine
tasting in the terraced vineyards. For a rustic
cellar-door experience, visit Domaine Wannaz
(La Tour de Chenaux). Or head to Le Deck
(Route de la Corniche) and order a glass
of the local dry, fruity white, chasselas, and
drink in the views of the lake and Alps.
EVENING APERITIF
Once a casino, Brasserie de Montbenon
(Allee Ernest-Ansermet 3) has fast become
the go-to bar, combining old-world charm
with modern styling. In summer, on the grand
terrace, music pumps and drinks ow. The
venue also doubles as a smart brasserie.
DIP IN
Old-school bistro Cafe Romand (Place
Saint-Francois 2) serves up the citys
favourite fondue, made with Gruyere and
Vacherin Fribourgeois. Room for dessert?
Try the simple but spectacular meringues.
HANG THE EXPENSE
Five-star Beau-Rivage Palace (Place du
Port 17-19 ) offers luxe rooms and the
two-Michelin-starred restaurant Anne
Sophie Pic. Or just drop in for a nightcap
in the sexy downstairs bar.
144delicious.
PHOTOGRAPHY LAUSANNE TOURISME
11pm
8pm
6pm
3pm
1pm
11am
10am
Wednesday and Saturday mornings, the
medieval town centre becomes a farmers
market. Climb cobblestone laneways to
Place de la Palud and treat yourself to a tarte
a la creme (brioche topped with sweet cream),
or pick up a wedge of Switzerlands famed
raw cows-milk cheese, Vacherin Fribourgeois.
Daylesford
Lake House grounds in Daylesford, 80 minutes from Melbourne.
Autumn Cooking Class
Autumn Masterclass
Sunday 19 April / From 9:30am / $340 pp
Sunday 3rd May / 9:30am - 4pm / $240 pp
Join us for a hands on masterclass at Lake House an exclusive
opportunity to work with two chefs from the Lake House team in producing
a beautiful seasonal menu. Spend a few hours in the purpose built Cooking
School kitchen dealing with the regions best produce and get to play with
some of our toys.
Includes a 3 hour cooking session, sit down lunch of dishes produced,
wine & folder of recipes. Space is limited to 12 guests per class.
A full day of demonstrations and foodie discussion with some of Australias top chefs including:
Andrew McConnell Supernormal, Cumulus Inc., Cutler & Co., Moon Under Water & Luxembourg, Melbourne
Daniel Wilson Huxtable, Melbourne
Colin Fassnidge Four in Hand, Sydney
Plus a specialty producer demonstration
Hosted by Lake House Culinary Director Alla Wolf-Tasker AM. Day includes all demonstrations, tastings,
recipes, baguette lunch & refreshments.
Winter Masterclass
Spring Masterclass
Sunday 26th July / 9:30am - 4pm / $220 pp
Sunday 11th October / 9:30am - 4pm / $220 pp
A full day of demonstrations and foodie discussion with some of Australias top chefs and
producers, including:
Shane Delia Maha, Melbourne
Pasi Petanen Caf Paci, Sydney
Stephanie Briton Bellota Dining, Melbourne
Hosted by Lake House Cul
demonstration kitchen at L
tastings, tea, coffee, baguet
A full day of demonstrations and foodie discussion with some of Australias top chefs and
producers, including:
Darren Purchese Burch & Purchese, Melbourne
Scott Huggins & Emma McCaskill Magill Estate, Rosslyn Park
Ashly Hicks Circa, Melbourne
Hosted by Lake House Culinary Director Alla Wolf-Tasker in the state of the art
demonstration kitchen at Lake House. Day includes all three demonstrations, recipes,
tastings, tea, coffee, baguette lunch and wine.
More worksh
- /LakeHouseDaylesford
King Str
- @LakeHouseDF
- /lakehousedaylesford
POSTCARD.
Where are you travelling to next?
Let us know @deliciousAU
morning RITUAL
Before exploring ancient rainforest and bathing in the clear waters of Malaysias
Datai Bay, Sarah Lewis forties herself with the countrys national breakfast dish.
Our stroll takes us via the Gulai House, an open-air Indian-Malay
restaurant hidden in the heart of the forest. In the breezy timber
pavilion, we mop up robust curries with puffed, charry naan bread,
before wandering back to our cosseting, neutral-toned suite.
The next day, were straight down to the Dining Room, where
toque-toting chefs man alfresco cooking stations, whipping up
buttery roti, fragrant noodle soups, and pandan-leaf parcels of nasi
lemak (coconut rice with chilli sambal, boiled egg and anchovies).
Its the kind of fortifying breakfast that would stand us in good stead
for a day on the nearby 18-hole golf course, or a mountain-bike trek
across the islands rugged interior. But who needs to break a sweat
in paradise? Instead, its back to the Beach Club to sip coconut
water and lazily slip between the sand and the sea.
Follow Sarah:
146delicious.
@eatmywords_au
eatmywords.com.au
SERVES 4
3 cups (600g) jasmine rice
1/2 cup (125ml) coconut milk
4 pandan leaves, knotted
Sunower oil, to shallow-fry
1/3 cup (30g) dried anchovies
1/3 cup (50g) roasted peanuts
1/2 telegraph cucumber, halved
lengthways, sliced into thin wedges
4 hard-boiled eggs, peeled, quartered
20g dried chillies
3 banana eschalots, roughly chopped
100ml sunower oil
1 tsp shrimp paste
2 tbs caster sugar
1 tbs tamarind puree
For the sambal, place chillies in a bowl
and cover with boiling water. Set aside
for 30 minutes. Drain and place in a food
processor with eschalot and 1 tbs oil, then
whiz to a paste. Heat remaining 1/3 cup
(80ml) oil in a wok over medium heat. Cook
paste for 2-3 minutes until fragrant. Add
remaining sambal ingredients and cook
for a further 4-5 minutes until thickened.
Place rice, coconut milk and pandan in
a saucepan with 3 cups (750ml) water and
1 tsp salt, then bring to the boil over high
heat. Cover with a lid, reduce heat to low
and simmer for 20 minutes or until cooked.
Meanwhile, heat 2cm oil in a frypan over
high heat. Fry anchovies for 20-30 seconds
until crisp, then drain on paper towel.
Fluff rice with a fork and divide among
bowls. Serve with sambal, fried anchovies,
peanuts, cucumber and egg.
FOOD STYLING DAVID MORGAN
CHILLI SAMBAL
FOOD PHOTOGRAPHY JEREMY SIMONS
In the breezy timber pavilion, we
mop up robust curries with puffed,
charry naan bread.
NASI LEMAK
WORDS SARAH LEWIS
A TROPICAL BREEZE drifts over talc-white sands,
windsurfers shimmy across jade-green waters, and
snorkelling couples bob around offshore. Im kicking
back on a cushioned sunlounger, having just paddled out
to a nearby island, one of the 100 or so in the pristine Langkawi
archipelago. Just as I think life cant get any better, a mind-reading
butler rocks up with a bowl of sorbet and a freshly cracked coconut.
Yes, there are coastal breaks, and then theres The Datai,
a luxurious, rainforest-meets-beach retreat on Datai Bay. Weve
wound up here at the end of a stay in Malaysia, trawling the hawker
markets of Penang, getting our high-rise kicks in Kuala Lumpur
and doing next to nothing on rustic Tioman Island. Weve splurged
on a two-night stay here, and its been worth every cent.
While its tempting to linger at the hotels Beach Club, a host
of activities await within the lush grounds. There are batik-making
sessions and Malay cooking classes, an adults-only pool and serene
day spa, and the unmissable rainforest walk, hosted by renowned
naturalist Irshad Mobarak. As evening falls, we pass up a sunset
cocktail in favour of an educational foray through the jungle,
spying ying squirrels, monkeys and other button-cute critters.
Clockwise from top
left: The Datai's villas
come with private
pools; nasi lemak;
islands of the Langkawi
archipelago; bathroom
in a beach villa.
LOCAVORE
Adelaide Hills
Just a short drive from the city centre, the Mount Lofty Ranges offer the ideal
getaway for anyone with an appetite for good food, wine and glorious views,
writes our South Australia contributor, Simon Wilkinson, who heads for the Hills
with this months Locavore, farmer-turned butcher, Richard Gunner.
PHOTOGRAPHY NIGEL LOUGH
delicious.149
LOCAVORE.
he Mount Lofty
Ranges hold
Adelaides eastern
ank in a tight embrace,
which means a trip from
trafc-snarled streets
to the quiet idyll of a
Hills lane can be much
shorter than expected,
often under 30 minutes.
And look at what that little lane might be
passing through: vineyards and cellar doors with
killer views; orchards of rosy apples or plump
cherries; patchworks of pasture and vegie plots;
a constellation of little villages. The fertile soil
and damper, cooler climate has attracted
growers and graziers, and the people who
value their pristine produce.
Farmer-turned-butcher and delicious. Produce
Awards winner Richard Gunner has long been
a resident of the Adelaide Hills.
Living here is the best of both worlds, says
our Locavore. You dont have to tree-change
and live at the end of the earth. Its right on the
doorstep of the city, but its very agricultural.
Richard has a young family and says his
recommendations keep that in mind. We know
all the places that are open early for dinner!
150delicious.
DAIRY DATES
At UDDER DELIGHTS (91 Main Rd, Hahndorf), you can buy Australias rst
raw milk blue cheese, King Saul, at a cool $150 for 500g, as well as enjoy a
fondue or high tea. WOODSIDE CHEESE WRIGHTS (22 Henry St, Woodside)
has won national and international accolades for its cow and goats milk
products. Owner Kris Lloyd continues to experiment and expand his range,
which means you might taste something here before its wider release.
STARTERS ORDERS
Having put most of the Hills cafes
through their paces, Richard asserts
that ALDGATE PROVIDORE & CAFE
(220 Mount Barker Rd, Aldgate) is top
dog for coffee. Its breakfasts are also
recommended, whether youre looking
for a traditional fry-up, something
sweeter, such as the vanilla-poached
peaches with mascarpone on French
toast (left). Both Latino and Spanish
avours take over later in the day and
on Sunday afternoons, a giant paella
is star of the show. The red-striped
frontage stands out in a row of more
traditional shops in Aldgates centre.
LOCAVORE.
Being airborne is the only way to nd a more spectacular view of the Hills
than the one from the hilltop cellar door of PIKE & JOYCE (730 Mawson
Rd, Lenswood). Ask someone to point out distant landmarks or, if its
overcast, relish the feeling of being above the clouds. Open Thursday
to Sunday for tastings (dont miss the gruner veltliner), as well as a short,
weekly changing lunch menu that might include Port Lincoln snapper
with fennel, bean and preserved lemon salad, and a SA regional platter.
BIG WHEEL KEEPS
ON TURNING
The hypnotic beat and ne mist from
the slowly turning paddlewheel make
lunch on the deck at BRIDGEWATER
MILL (Mount Barker Rd, Bridgewater)
a magical experience on a sunny
afternoon. The new owners created
a bigger and more weatherproof
outdoor space, now open every day
alongside the dining room, where
visitors can sit and share platters of
regional produce. The good news is
that chef Zac Ronayne (above) is staying
on so expect more of his beautiful
melding of Asian and Western avours
and a much broader wine choice,
with Petaluma no longer in charge.
THE GREAT
ALL-ROUNDER
One place ts all at THE STIRLING
HOTEL (52 Mount Barker Rd, Stirling),
which offers something for every taste
and budget under the same roof.
The hotel is the busiest eating place
in the Hills, according to Richard.
Its all things to all people. So you
can splash out with a top-shelf dinner
in The Grill, drop into The Bistro for
a burger the salt & pepper chicken
burger with bacon, aioli, guacamole
and slaw (above) is a winner or a pizza
(the pizzeria section has an atmosphere
all its own). Theres also a cafe/bakery
that keeps things ticking over during
the day. Oh, and theres an excellent
bottle shop, too.
WHERE THERES SMOKE
Fourth-generation family business HARRIS SMOKEHOUSE (37 Main Rd)
produces excellent hot- and cold-smoked salmon, classic British-style
kippers, smoked English haddock and cod, and all manner of other smoked
seafood, including local yellowtail kingsh and Cofn Bay oysters. Watch
the artisans in action at the shop, then load up on provisions to take away.
delicious.153
COOKS TOUR
Big-name chefs such as David Thompson and Mark McNamara are among
the luminaries whove taught classes at STICKY RICE COOKING SCHOOL
(96 Old Mt Barker Rd, Stirling). A superbly equipped kitchen means
participants can all get their hands dirty and try to match the pros in the
four-hour sessions, before sitting down to taste their handiwork with
a glass of wine or beer. Sticky Rice also has three luxurious and stylishly
themed villas available, whether you have taken part in a class or not.
10
FAMILY VALUES
The little uns will love the cubby
house and chooks outside, and the
blackboards and toys indoors, but theres
plenty to interest more discerning tastes at
PATCH KITCHEN & GARDEN (143 Mount
Barker Rd, Stirling). Open through the day
for coffee and casual meals, Patch ramps
things up after hours, serving dishes such
as salt and pepper squid with a surprising
salsa of cucumber, green olive and dill, or
beef short ribs with sweetcorn polenta and
a crunchy slaw. Herbs and vegies come
from the garden or nearby, and even the
brioche burger buns are baked in-house.
If youre visiting during the daytime,
dont forget to pick out a gorgeous
arrangement from the Ivy Shed orist
(right) in the garden barn before you go.
154delicious.
PIZZA THE ACTION
When theres a chill in the air,
the wood oven of JIMMIES (6 Main St,
Crafers) draws Hills dwellers like moths
to a ame. Richard reckons they
make the regions best pizzas (try the
pumpkin and zaatar above), but the
oven is also used to roast lamb on the
bone or bake a cassoulet-style dish of
duck cont and beans. They support
local produce and have great staff,
Richard says. And theres a good little
list of beers. The dining room is relaxed
and family-friendly but still intimate
enough for a conversation.
LOCAVORE.
MEMORABLE LANE
VINEYARD
12
BED & BUBBLES
Wake up in the stately surrounds of
MOUNT LOFTY HOUSE (74 Mount
Lofty Summit Rd, Crafers). Find a sunny
spot on the balcony and watch the
morning mists curl over Piccadilly Valley
as you tuck into the Country House Hot
Plate with a glass of bubbles. They
take a lot of pride in their breakfast,
Richard says, nding the best eggs
and making their own sausages.
13
BORN AGAIN
The once-dodgy CRAFERS HOTEL (4 Main St, Crafers) has undergone a
remarkable transformation in the past year. Check out the names (Late, Romanee)
on the wine-crate installation in the front bar for an idea of the treasures on offer.
The new owner is a Burgundy nut, so expect the best of French and Aussie pinots,
alongside bistro favourites including free-range chicken cobbler pie and more
exotic options such as slipper lobster curry. As we write, renovations are ongoing,
but this will be a must-visit on any Hills itinerary by the second half of 2015.
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156 delicious.
snack attack
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Twice-baked cauliower
soufes (recipe p 62)
Recipe index
APRIL 2015
STARTERS AND LIGHT MEALS
Black buns with smoked trout ................. 73
BLT Tatin (bacon & tomato tarte Tatin
with cos salad) ................................... 113
Crispy pork belly with cashew nut
caramel and pickled watermelon ........ 98
Fig, prosciutto & radicchio salad ............. 66
Mushrooms on eggy bread (v)................. 28
Otak-otak............................................... 102
Pasta handkerchiefs with
mushroom ragu (v) ............................... 84
Pork buns ................................................. 96
Prawn & bacon atbreads ....................... 70
Prawn & potato tortilla with aioli ............. 43
Pumpkin & goats cheese bruschetta
with sage burnt butter (v) .................... 66
Roast pumpkin with maple syrup
and cinnamon ...................................... 28
Roasted cauliower with anchovy
& parsley sauce .................................... 86
Rojak ...................................................... 104
158 delicious.
Spoon salad (v) ...................................... 140
Thin-crust pide with spicy lamb
topping (lahmacun) ............................ 140
Torta pasqualina (Easter savoury pie) (v) ... 86
Twice-baked cauliower soufes (v)......... 62
Yoghurt bread piadina with fontina ......... 74
MAINS
30-minute beef bourguignon .................. 64
Braised lamb shanks with potatoes,
olives and lemon ................................. 86
English pork pies ..................................... 92
Fish head curry ...................................... 106
Gnocchi with miso butter prawns ............ 46
Harissa lamb with roast carrots
and quinoa pilaf ................................ 120
Jamies chilli crab ................................... 104
Miso butter snapper with broccolini ...... 116
Murtabak ............................................... 108
Nasi lemak ............................................. 146
Oven-baked prawn rigatoni .................. 119
Oven-steamed soy salmon ................... 113
Parmesan & sage pork cutlets
with spiced tomato relish..................... 94
Parsnip skordalia with
wild mushrooms (v) .............................. 66
Peters revenge or pollo tinto
(red wine & chocolate chicken) ............ 50
Pot-roasted spatchcock with saffron,
olives and quince ................................. 28
Quick chicken roast .............................. 120
Quick roast beef with
chilli parmesan cauliower................. 117
Roast lamb koftas with pumpkin
and crisp couscous ............................ 119
Roast pork loin with
bitter greens and apple ....................... 94
Roasted mushroom & haloumi salad
with crispy lentils (v) ........................... 114
Roasted T-bone with onion butter
and salt-baked carrots ......................... 44
Spanish kumara pockets ....................... 114
SWEET THINGS
Baked buttermilk doughnuts with
whisky chocolate glaze ...................... 132
Banana fritters ....................................... 108
Caramelised white chocolate ice cream
& brownie sandwiches ....................... 132
Colomba (Easter sweet bread) with
amaretto mascarpone .......................... 88
Hot ice cream bread ................................ 73
Marzipan, pear & dark chocolate
cake with poached pears ................... 126
Memphis banana bread .......................... 76
Mile-high chocolate meringue pie ........ 132
Mulled wine plum cobbler....................... 66
Nutella cheesecake with
chocolate mirror glaze ....................... 128
Peanut butter & milk chocolate
terrine with peanut brittle ................. 128
Pomegranate & Aperol granita ............... 29
Saffron-layered rice pudding ................. 140
Salted chocolate tart with
candied mandarin .............................. 128
Swedish pecan & cinnamon buns............ 74
DRINKS AND EXTRAS
No-knead bread ...................................... 84
Roti canai ............................................... 104
(v) denotes vegetarian recipes
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