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sO good..
the magazine of haute patisserie #2 - JUNE 2009=
Ane
—
Cae
The best quality in chocolate
3
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E Oea
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www.hillbo.comTHANK YOU
Since the frst issue of So Good.
ragazine was launched
wade fairs, schools, pastry stores, restaurants, suppliers and
dealers... In all of our
with no exception, we have found
fe ond
everybody in the
professionals ever ii
proud to belong wo th
enormousy eager to share their knowledge
sector, and they all hove received the launch of So God.
entusiastically
Asoo
our pu chino,
editor-in-chief
reat number of crefs hove contacte hing house t0 Carlos
opinion about the magazine. Mary
also ogreed that a magazine with such choracteristcs wos so
sector: something tke" wos
necessary in the inal there's a: magazine which places
confectionery in the postion it deserves ~ the sun
ie of gastronomy
And that was our the end ofthe day We claimed that the sweet products'should have the some
do it was showing the countless
status and consideration as the savory’ ones do, and the best
yt
creative possi
of confeccionory atts best
had
We need to soy that this project, exciting since its very beginning would not have come
12 forthe indispensable participation ofthe sector. Obviousy, So Good. magazine would not exist
y withour the help of al those professionals who appear init showing thai skils and shoring thei
recipes ond their work philosophy wath everyone. and nether woud this magazine survive without the
paricipation of suppliors, dealers and manufacturers, as well as our advertsers, who have trusted this
‘even before the fst sue had seen the light
woud lke to & ge the task
pecially acknowl: who ore doing thei
ich our dealers are camying ou
best for So Good. to reach p soll over the worl
{0 all of them. and we are happy to show our absolute corr
grote
continue ths tosk which we believe is incresting for everybody in the
fosophy. keeping Our pages open to oll those
who have something to show and share with other professionals. For that reason, we encourage
econ include ther
/eaders, wherever they are, to send us their creations and recipes so
peoming issues
We ve
vad you that our webs
h the differen
2 your dspasa
's at your dsposol,
ssogoodmagazine.com, to keep you
1 ob
up-to-date w heonvng issues, where and bi the magazine,
Habora
rs, and so on. We abo hope
‘ontinu® t0 use our website 0 Send us your suggestions and contributions that
deftly
lefnitely
iprove i the future. Thank you very muchCONTENTS
yann duytsche, .. and gastronomic confectionery &
alex stupack, ereative contro! 20
carles mampel. effervescent 32
pointner @ constant challenge 42
christoph lin
sebastien bouillet, the emperor from lyon 52
stgphane glacier, commitment and professionalism at its best 60
michel willaume, “it’s not always a matter of creating new desserts, ...” 70
have a sweet tooth and I’m generous, ...” 78
dominique ansel, balance as a virtue 86
christophe michalak,
ewald notter, how sweet it is 96
Koichi ium), unlimited passion for chocolate |04
michel bras, “my personal luxury is nature, silence, tim
joan baixas, renovation [22
flavio federico, the revitalizer of brazilian patisserie |30
stef aerts, visual strength [40
jos romero, the value of authenticity [46
tidbits 158
Ecole \endtre, the temple of gastronomic savoir faire | 84a=
oe
CE ye
ao. *
Ee
“2
C3% ‘3
‘SB
CEwww.bakedeco.com
De a cea
oe ec
When in New York, please visit our showroom at: 6103-15th Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11219, USA « 1-800-525-5556ro
a ae
Cola Dairy Products S.p.A.
{ODUCTS, S.p.A.
(CE) tao - tel. 39 0823822111 - fax. 39 0823821046
Contrada Casale Area Industrale - 81025
pit © weww.codap it... AND GASTRONOMIC CONFECRONERYAnd
DOLG, YANN DUYTSCHE’S LATEST SUCCESS, IS AVERY PERSO-
NAL THING THAT HE CALLS “GASTRONOMIC CONFECTIO-
NERY” AND WHICH IS HIS DREAM COME TRUE.YANN _DUYTS
atthe pr " planning to sper F three onh
Underwent rather than the decorations then Well ts beer seaming a ing her
pletely urpriong and magia ice ther! | think you sselfbe seduced
rest in the craf increased, Yare Ou pporer ure presen and
da catering school since inPatisserie d'auteur. © prevsey all he expense
and knowedge acquired through so mary years of
learring which constaute his greatest srength and
row allow him to offer his cus
ers a personalized
confectionery, a patisserie auteur which he Hmselh
call “gasronomc confectionery’ n this sense, Yann
Duyssche points out an imeresing diférerce bewe-
en pasty stores or bakeries and resaurarss “there
are many restaurant categories ard so the consumer
can choose beforehand whether to go to a fastfood
plice,a pizzeriaan dla carte restaurant ora high stan
dard restaurart, However in confectionery no distinc
‘ions are made be‘orehand’,
The same approach is followed at Dole, Yarn
Duysche's shop-business in Sart Cugat del Valles
(Barcelona), where gastroncmic confectionery or
patisserie auteur is common practice. The word
confectionery or patisene int actualy wed because,
as its author explains,"Dole (Catalan fr ‘sweet best
embodies what were rying 1o do here: to work with
weet ingredients in a gactnomic sere, fs 8 term
which, n my opinion. puts across sensitivity emotions,
IRS a word that comprises a ruber of things and, at
the same time, defres my professional identity as
wel”
laborasing on this idea, Duytsche details the sections
Of fis offer: we make cookies snacks, pasties ee
ream ard bonbors. Clearly nothing new! What we
‘wants for cur customers to realze that behind these
Products there is an author, a career a gastroncmic
idea and shat they are rot standard products but di
ferent and excuse”:
Yann has found great support in his wife, Cris
Leper. who is responsible for running the shop. The
rest of the Dok team is made up of fve people wor
“We want people to see that there is an author, a career a
gastronomic idea behind these products, and that it isn't just
‘the standard, quite the opposite, it's different and exclusive”
king in the workshop and two others in the shop. is
a cohesive team that works in perfect synchrony in
order to put across a common idea, According 10
Yarn himsel
a kind of patisserie that needs to be
exphined bec
For example, we make a milefeulle fled with vara
se everything isparscular and unique,
cream instead
réme pitisire, Thus, we do our
bes: to explain the customer what it is ard what is
special abou it, Eventual the customer realizes that
‘here are diferent ways of approaching the world of
confectionery. ard this is how we do i
Dale is a small shop, well and clear
‘otal absence of decoration and yet t displays a ratio.
th an almost
ral and well planned layout. As Duytsche sys, “we
‘werent seeking an elaborate style Finally we've ended
Up with a practically empty area but then thas when
you can sruly say there is
ebviows to our eyes. Anyway that
ie what we wanted.” And in
this area, ifs easy to spot
‘Yorn, wearing an impeccable
white unform serving his
customers, explining hs gas
‘ronomic idea and enjoying
0 good.YANN DUYISCHE
cocoa streusel with griottes
gate
OF Bw
3) § cocoa power
0 8
0 8
simon poset
fren pits
Dice the Eater while il cold
Combine the las and the powered greens acl the baer
ind gently Frese he dough withthe lp ofa pe
the shape of tubes anc erwin the ret
Process withthe meat ginder Store the ken place nthe fe
Baking temperature: 54
tender almond sponge cake
450g eggubies
250g spr
8
8 ;
220 § confectioners’ sugar
920. amon power
& type $5 how
2 capaho
B cen
Combine the 450g eg ties withthe sug are ik 1 so
peaks
{With te Fp ofa spa rb the crear, 15 gp whites,
the almond powder the Nour and the confections supa
Fel nthe wbished egg whites ist xsl amu ae then the
Bake at 190°C for 25 minutes
violet light Ivoire mousse
gmk
crea, 35% Bt content
340 hole ite chocolate
7g sein sheers
Sak the gen in plenty of wee Weigh and grin the chaclate
Bol he ri anc the gelatin previously crane Per pro
matey 1/3 hot laid over the checole anc beat with iver
order to bia 2 saoth elas goss texture, which wil mean
‘hat the eral proces hs Sorina Age theremin the
rik keeping he tecure raltere When the doco mie
337°C, pour over the spongy whipped cream Freeze
Ivoire white glaze
225g crear, 35% fat conte
i) Abscks Crbtal metal pean
375 hire wlte chocokie
3) mineral water
Gs. wetercloring white coloring
Bal the crea, Heat the neutral gelatin to TOO
ey peer hacer lescseee rode cle
ane str emul Fh by pouring he hot gelatin, Proces,
with the meer in order to complete the emus,
Use a 3574
HARE THEVICLET Hoe HOUHEE AND FOUR TOA FRAY. (4C84
WER AND SOME CRIOTTE HACE MED Wt CHE NEUTRAL CELAESSEN’ TIALINNOVATION IN ©.
Peace
dobla. -com rE CsYANN, He
gianduja sablé bretonALEX STUPACK,
ARE JUST SOME OF HIS ACHIEVEMENTS, IN 2004, HE WAS ALREADY CONSIDERED TO BE
AVISIONARY.TODAY, AND ACCORDING TO JEFFREY STEINGARTEN ~ A CRITIC OF VOGUE
- HE IS ‘AN UNSTOPPABLE FONT OF NEW IDEAS:
HOWEVER, ALEX STUPAK DOES NOT SEEM IMPRESSED BY
SUCCESS. NOWADAYS, HE CONTINUES WITH HIS CONSTANT
OWN RESEARCH TOGETHER WITH WYLIE DUFRESNE IN NEW
YORK: ‘MY HOPE IS THAT EVERY DISH | MAKE IS AESTHETI-
CALLY STRIKING IN A NON-TRADITIONAL WAY BUT MORE
IMPORTANTLY | HOPE THERE IS ALWAYS A TECHNIQUE
ABOUT IT THAT IS SUBTLE, INNOVATIVE, AND UNIQUE’‘lam fascinated by everything in cuisine but as a pastry
chef the opportunity to manipulate is much more pro-
found and radical’
sng hin the resp
wurporr bi
ry asi jppor 7
+ ealcing : ps , nse of or r
restiuran ly other poston that uly has re rere
pa ing yourg and impa
my | wanted chit a r Philosop
rol immedia f nF
i pasr wpe mans uni
wd |r i stant pushing 1
tha rex r me to rep
ty
" mpl P
. i only language and comp
Alex Stupak derstanding, Supa ever r rr
m re past
He anc tle ppercunty to manip uch more profur
ive a comp nce idea an rough ur
raining and a sok F 1g ther r
r r P press ther
rer nd ind help you mprove upon everythiabe
VALRHONA
‘The road to complete chocolate understanding is a long one
Here it is in a nutshell
own plantations and ereating the re
Tulfill and share our passion for bl
Aux Sources pu GRAND CHocotarCARAMEUZED CHE, GALA APPLE, SAGE, BROWN BUT
ORBETALEX
SERVERS 10,
base mixturesALEX STUPACK
for the brioche pudding
4 vi
vol elt and rane
ni the Loch
he mire int all
Pace a baton of caramel gin the center of each mel and tp
wih mare he brioche tre Make sure to pack the rk
he rel caer ent
pera fF retigeraion for 24 hour
for the thin caramel sheets
bie ents a saucepan and cook
Pour allow 19 oe at Fee temp
rature fr srs Ging the caramel na sp
f 35" template ower a Spit ane i the
ry over Remove the temple ang place
AAlow the shes to coc b
Spa Store in an aight container with desican
for the apple paste
e gla ap
flow aod gan gn
Face the apple Tesh in Sous
Nie sl et reo
ap
Tranter th
ips Reiger unl re
pipe bzfor the smoked pecan nougatine
‘
00 of geund amcked pecan
rb the sugar gucove sl and water a saucepan and cook
, cca an sir 0 combine. a
he mire out on ieee
ro Rear ea Ina
Bring the water to a
thea
bath
betin
int rough shards
me Sore fh avai ight conta wih desécand ral edRAVIFRUIT
Les fruits de l'excellence
Since 1981 ravifruit has built up
recognition by its commitment
to excellence, respecting essential
values and producing the finest
fruit that Nature has to offer.
Bi 010 frozen trait puees
(Glock Frat gang
Bi re pasteurises
frat putees
Wi Frozen fruit QF
Official parner
Bh Frit preparations =
Feri Pai np Wh rat cous
Ravifruit- 26140 Anneyron - France - Te
474 84 08 53 - Fax: 433 (0) 74 84 14 56 -ravifruteravifrut.com - www.cavitrurtcom: « CARLES MAMPEL IS TODAY ONE
CALLED NEW PAT E IN BARCELONA
OF THE MOST IMPORTANT ICONS IN THE
AND SPAIN. in his restaurant. 8 nly admitted os
AND _IN BUBO, IN THE VERY HEART OF EL BORN
ST LIVELY AND BOHEMIAN AREAS IN
IS ALWAYS POSSIBLE TO FIND SOMETHING
AND SURPRISING AT THE SAME TIME. IT IS
S, CREATIVE EFFERVESCENCE.
—ONE
BARCE
NEw,
THE CO!‘CARLES MAMPEL
His natural sae isa permanent state of alert Always
[prepared to teach and lear, ard especially to partic
pate. Hic answer is never'ro' to anybody in the trade
‘who warts £9 corsut of propose tim something
New things can always be created, There is aways
space fr innovation, to turn thirgs upside down,
Everything can be shaken ard everything can modtiy
its state He is restless and Ines in a state of efferves
cence caused by hime
‘Visiting Subd the restaur
«at Carles Mampel runs
in 8 Born, Barcelora.is to wak into a surprising wortd
regarding the frm ard conters, the presentations and
‘he flor and texcure combinations And wsting it for
a second time after a brief time mears to witness a
new scene,in which surprise wil surely show up again,
‘When a new season starts an 80 or 90% of the cre
ations are changed. As their creator states: ‘
pro
ajectory is condition
‘red by the seasons, as it rormaly happers in other
‘pes of establishments,
1 Born (inthe ChtatVella quarter Sarcelena) gathers
a gastronomic ofer both varied and rich, Besides, ‘his
area has lots of advantages it ie mostly inhabited by
young people, which allows us to offer rider tastes
actually these ones succeed the most there is a
ucts hive to evolve, and their
corssant flow of people:and on top of everything iis
very offen visted by los of foreigner looking for new
shings, Marpel afirms’The original idea was to set up
astore that broke with the radtional bakery prototy
pe, with the pica shop windows and counters, andLONG MAISROJOcrispy corn with 3 paprikasmousse of Tanariva-basil-lemon
basil-lemon infusion
genoese bread with Keva and raspberries
raspberry spongeS/gep
@uti
31° international Exhibition
Artisan Production of Gelato,
Pastry, Confectionery and Bakery
23-27 January 2010
Rimini Italy
Propessiohag
ory!
www.sigep.it
Sonatevrt
Mendo dla Gelatenia
Cap DIP kienSINCE 1965
paboor’
ca! a
ae eel bef eer ‘ag
Fo nd Pane cL aa Reto
sive pou
pages: een ota ce
Pann : ro
iabeemeay ee = FN erat st ed
ote re PLO Pog Se rte
eee —— Prvanett A
cep rv Unc aal
Mills in Spain, Argentine ond
PoesyCHRISTOPH EINDPOINTINER..
RISTOPH L!
AUSTRI:
SHAPE TC
AN! DAWA RDE
METRIC LINES TO ¢
TRADITION: ENTS AND
TURES AND FLAVORS. NEVERTHELESS, CHRISTOPH LINDPOINTNER
ENTHUSIASTICALLY POINTS OUT: ‘THIS DOES NOT MEAN
THAT | AM CLOSED TO THE IDEA OF MODERN INFLUENCES,
QUITE THE OPPOSITE
TAU RANT KARU!
GANCE AN!taurant Ikarus works as a showroom in which crea
tions designed by different guest uh urrent
etting the trend worldwide are presented y monthCHRISTOPH LINDPOINTNER. ————
sponge
30g butter
12) Aragun ex chocobte cower,
Tis coco
280g epg whites
© f xer
Oe epyaks
Combine the butter and the chocolate and melt. Separately best
Ihe egg ubies together wi the spar oni si
ruby the eg yok with the chocolate ane a bit of he beaten
gp hes hen ole he emaring iere ep his, Pour om
1d 40 em baking sheet ana bake at | 807. or aproirly
mousse Araguani
20 ge ik
3g plain
290 Argun’ dark chocolteceuvertur,
Teaco
500g hey cam
Brg the milk toa bil and stir inthe gelatin, Graal ery
the chocolate ad heat to SU°C. Whisk the cream uni si and
fold nto the uid Spread over the sponge ck ane lee 1 5
chocolate glaze
225 E heavy cream
25} Arguan dirk choco cowverum.
Tas cocoa
600g Abschs cal
260 Welberger cocoa cream
Brg the cers to a bo ad gradually emul the Araguan Heat
the Absoh rst to 70% and emul as well Si nthe cocoa
fam and ghze chocolate mouse with the mitre en a 2
Tel cm suas
Araguani chocolate ice cream
i
KO) “e
$58 skimmed nik power
Mog ee
20) & gcese poader
Og mane
0 2 ser
Og Peep rose
580g Argun rk chexalite ceaverta
Ti cocoa
Heat up the mil A the sired mk powder at 25%
Combine the 4g supar with the eicone power an the imo
ie and ce at 35°: When at 45% ac the 40 g sugar and the
Pectagel rose Finly ace the Araga at SO ne then heat up
0 BSC. Quy coed van 10 APC ae fave 10 set, Blend and
Ireezein an ke trem racine. ine PVC pipes wth non sick
paper and chocolse wrap With the fe ofa carat bag
(Gmoth ip) Arapani ke cream into the pipes an shock ree
26 10 35*C. Rersove ery roles nd cut nia S-cm portions
chocolate spray
TOD g Aaguai dirk dvcoltecouvertum
cocoa,
30g cocoa buter
CComtine and melt then
des,
chocolate cream
40 nik
6) § hemy acum
| ania bean see scraped
250g Saeyols
20 § sugar
S40 Arageni dark chocolite cowertur,
Tex cocen
Combine the mil the crear and the vara and bring toa bet
Sept cmt the yoshi an psy
‘Gray eruby he Aragua with he just prepred creme
Argh and pour ino small cone molds (Demarte) hock freeze
and remove fom the molds Temper sore Aragusi, tly spec
fio neutral checolite wrap ae leave 1 Set.
Cutout srl ds and use hese as bomom ayers fr he nem
nes (10 propre the thwed out checolte crea for serving
ganache Araguani
ag ik
300g heay eam
© § sine
6B gucene syrup
40 Araguni dark chocolite cowertur.
Tix coca
Combine the mil the crea. the rine ane the gucone syrup
and Lxing 10 a bod. Gradually emily the chocolate.
Pour tal ofthe mitre into mintherbphers mos ane stack
Irewzn When iim, rere Irom the mols, pour the sec ho
ff the mixture the moles ane Sen place the ren hers
Bees on top to rake ball.
Finy snk evar aga Remove the als er the ole ane
rollin cocoa powerie)! N ARAGUANICHRISTOPH LINDPOINTNER
praliné cream
400 ik
25g cegyalls
spr
Erte angle (xe shove)
38) g_praliné noisette 30%
400 heap oe
rie the il, the crear an he van ae bring to 3 bad
Separate Combine the eg yok ng the supa ane stk unl
pets crear Puc backin the pot of she Leling rik anc pseu
ze by aerage test of BY
Soak ana erin the gelatin
Sic the Frain net am ip 10 3
Whip the csr uni i into the rctre, lace 450 g
Othe mure oni a ecm ang shew, eth
fe wrap Sco cat ard Foca, them cut io Ixy resale,
the 600 gente ange.
praliné - financier
TpT ro
B pinceree supe
ftw
baking powder
2 rut butier
Sif the TpT noite he powdered sup de Nour and the baling
power the Paling rokere an the ut ate
de the ily sie the ome
lates one tre Pour on a GOxtO-an
biking sheet and bake at TPC for appronrately 10 nafs,
Lete to cock and cut about 1/3 ofthe cake bo sal 4x2-cr
retargles recar the ranger i ule gen nar
ine powder vith the help ct acute Freser 10s
praliné saffron dust
Dg pra ncsee SOx
40g Mal
3g thesat
(Combine and Lene al ie ingreciens oie powder
hip ofa Terror
Sup
Pe
5 heap crear
x rere che
Hes up the mil: Mcin the ik power at 25°C. Combine the
devcrote, the gucone, the 400 sip he sk andthe safen the
BALA the Sop sumer se
the crear and the ers
Briy blene ane tena
warm mango agar
D8
8 3
43
onthe to eat upto 85°C. As the pein
Presa sked ane er ietre. Pour ini ace
i lave 10 coo Cut to seal Ixl-cm cube Brey warm up in
Combine th sand gy sic Place on a xc
Sit m ih chocolate wrap and ol 0 thn shee
irmeon
Remove wrap ane bb on goon brown
mango confit
50g. mango prde
pied pie Geapeetie
Peel the manga, remove the seed and cut nto smal cubes. Use
te pre and he ren > rarute ther(CRCO-762 Los Piedros-Las Navas s/n
14900 LUCENA (Cérdoba) Espana
www.infrico.com
‘Tel. 0924957512068
RE cenceak
57/27) 3 ea
eg
CORO (OR ee COM + 0 @
OE eg nA ere)
RANCE
ROPE LM OE 2 1 kaa
eee Roe econTHE EMPEROR FROM LYONSEBASTIEN BOUILLET
e THE PERSON RESPONSIBLE FOR
THIS SUDDEN GROWTH |S SEBASTIEN BOUILLET, WHO JOI-
NED THE FAMILY BUSINESS IN THE YEAR 2000 AND THEN
STARTED PLANNING HIS MAGNIFICENT CAREERSEBASTIEN BOUILLET
Sébastien Bout
1m to be develo
rg
almost at a rartc pace: tree new
one of them in japan, a tear
cr restaurant, a pasty
school admission into Relais Dessert. a complete
renovated workshop And al
Ys was acheved n only
five years Hence, the question: why has this happened
The sruth is that such a doy-rocketing career is ay
thing but unplanned. Cleary.it ides realy ge
cy Sve years ago. Seb
je acquired bis 9
working in diferent French pasty shops, where he
learned b
w the diferent workshops and production
systems worked, In those times he became aware of
onfectonery business andits urtap.
ped potential When he joined the farsly buses in
the year 2000, he started to int
duce deep changes,
on and the workshop in the
h affected pro
fs pli
hat is, he started buldng che Maison
Bouillet fom its very foundations. Ther, in 204
carried out a comprehensve reno
workshop at
re, by expanding he area
in La Croix Rousse squa
(Om. ard opened a
led Macarons & Chocolats, Later in
ew shop.
27, the Tokyo shop was opened, in the prestigious
seta depres
J “ ~~ In the very same year together with Eric Bergon,
ke psy chef for Boule he opened tearoom cho
P colaterie and restaurant in St.jear.in the ld Lyon. as
store, in the Shinju neighbour
Well a a store devoted to chocolate maca
ip Jareary 2008, Souler began yet another ad
re, but thi time was trainng-oriertet he opened
bis own scho
he Giluteau Ecole where chef from
sen
ted to both novices and experi
the Maison taught a wh 1 of courses orien
ced chef in need of
an update,Bouillet’s main
>rkshop is a hive of activity. Young pastry chefs from all
ver the world choose it knowing that it is the place t
1 the craftchocolate sponge cake
chocolate mousse
chocolate creamBaa tere)
HAZ
ITPA
UA
STN
C3 ysom
NOWADAYS, STEPHAN GLACIER IS ONE OF THE MOST RESPECTED AND ADMIRED PRO.
FESSIONALS WORLDWIDE. He courses, exhibitions, books and parti
‘events ail over the world have helped
nity. Not surprisingly, today he runs hs own
reenth book. He even found some spare time in 2006
LY HE KNOWS THE FORMULA TO BE ABLE TO DO SO
MANY THINGS AT THE SAME TIME AND SUCCEED IN ALL
THEM. ON THESE PAGES, HE TELLS US WHAT THE CLUE IS:
“NOT TO BE AFRAID OF WORKING LONG HOURS".COMMITMENT AND PROFESSIONALISM AT ITS BEST“1 consider myself a pastry chef, not an artist !””
Why did you decide to become a pastry chef?
What do you find most foscineting about your job?
What is the most important thing for onyone storting
inthe pastry wade?
What de you think about the future
making?For Cocoa Selection Felchlin Grand Cru Chocolates, only pure-variety
noble-grade cocoa is used, Ina taste analysis, all of the world’s top
chocolates were sampled by the renowned and independent Italian
Pastry Academy. Felchlin’s Maracaibo Clasificado 65% was awarded
the finest chocolate in the world,
felSTEPHANE GLACIER Es —
Yel: 30 soll halts, 60 mm in diameter and 45 me high
joconde sponge cake
75g mond pow
an
20 8 emp
305g Spates
3 8
8
Wipe almond powcr: the confectioners’ sugar the our ane
the eggs in 2 ricer ed wih the whisk atachrsent Separately
“wb the epg wltes together nih the crear of arian ana hal
the amount of supa Cemy (lt into the rst mare wit) the
hp ofa rubber spaula ane then ad inthe melee Late,
Speed over aicone mat and bake at 220°C using vente
oven or 2 270°C Fwing a Noor here oven fr appronately B
vanilla punch
4g symp at 3B
fa van bean
Combine the watee the syrup and the spt walla bean and ring
ioabal
Lieve to cock Serpe the vars Bean ane eipose the bean,
vanilla bavaroise
ek
250, guid cream
vans bean
“aeyalle
Feb shew
‘whipped cream
Combine the mk the fui erry an the spt vail bese an
bring a bol Scrape the vari bean ane dhpose the bean,
Moc te ogg yolks and the sugar tna rer and pour 173 of he
boing rik over hem. Ag the ri he reminder of
the mln cock to BS°, Sra an dn precy
socked in old water a ration and
ery rc wih he whippe crear bing the
le
icin)
ped ream
Cook the suprtogeter with the veer to | BTC ane pour ove
the eggs ane the eps yolks thished 10 au fouet_ in alee
ted whith te whisk tachaent to mike pie & Lee Be
nil compe cock
Malt the couverture o 36°C and ad of the wlippe cream
10 1LAg¢ the pte & Bombe and then the remainder of fie wip
ped rearSTEPHANE GLACIER
Yl: 36 individ cokes
crunchy praliné
Borg pring paste I Fell)
7) Maracabo 68% dirk chocobte
70 § croquinine ein)
Miche meted couverture with the prin and then ad the
Tet With the hip of puta spread ewer 30«-cm and
rr thik irre
pa
hazelnut dacquoise
Xo) tamint power
2 cguhin
es haze
Si the conectkners sugar and the Naas pow
CComine the egg whites the crear of tartar and ha he armour
Df aug and wha mice fed with the ws atachiment
ind then athe emsiner ofthe sui Geni fold the ied
powder and sugar ino te eps whites
Spread te ciceucise over asicone mat and in a 30x40.
frame, | crm thick Rerene he rae and scatter wth the crushed
Ings, Sprinkle with contort’ sugar wo bitches a aS
mifute hierval and bake t 70°C Busing a velit Oven, Or
TRIP using Noor heating oven fr apprmtely 20 rites,
chocolate cream
3 kd
20 8 anys
ener
20) Crk 365 mi chocolate Feettin)
200 Mar dark chacolte
Bring the crear to a bo Whisk the eg ys together with the eee |
Suga: pour |/3 ofthe crear over the egg yolks and 2c al the SHEADATIRILAYER CF CHCCOLATE CREA WATHHTHE HELP OF A
Ibaure tothe remainder ofthe cream. Cock to @5YC. Stan over. CERCLA OVER TIE PREMOLILY FROZEN CRLINGIN HALRE PLACE
ea a ee TH PACOUORE ON TOR ANE SPREAD THE CHOCoKATE CHAM
milk chocolate chantilly TETABE 8 ORCERTO ACQUE AVERY FLAT AND STRAT
S00 gt ran roctmror
8) Crk IER nik chocoite (eMOVE THE RUYAE AND CUT WTO x95 RECTAN
Bal the eam and pour over te cinerea bb pecs ri HHLTHICK WCOCI SHEET UAE TO CRSTAUIRE aca cl
d store th reir fora east 24 hour. Wp wh INTO 303.cM RECTANGLES Ah EZ
trier ied whe whisk aceon i dy Pe ak coveancie toc roe en GER ENMycook 1.8
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771 Marne Yale oder 2 = FRANGE =a 49 104 11 6 21 -Fac: 438 70417 64-22 ema outsoleMICHEL WILLAUME
MICHEL WILLAUME, WORLD PASTRY CHAMPION, APPEARS IN
THESE PAGES AS A PRIVILEGED WITNESS OF THE EVOLUTION
OF SWEET GASTRONOMY AROUND THE WORLD. tis sore os 0 corsutane
10 all kinds of workshops and patsserie businesses has allowed him to hove a global vsion that he shares today with the aders of So Good
Magazine
ces 10 professionals of the confectionery indusry
(arall shops production o
Please, introduce yourself
=) catering (patisserie
My rame is Michel Witaume, fm an internatioraly
renowned French master pasry chef and | Ihe in
Barcelona, where | provide consuiting services 20
pasty chefs and cooks ‘fom Spain a well as fom
abroad,
usally ay" a pastry chefin a white jadeet us ke
she test So, don't be shy because the more
you par
ary Mconsuting, was created in September 2005
wah the aim of providing tallor made consuting servi
ate, he more fun we'l have". My com
shops restaurants ard ban
son ard la are rere),
cal and practical dasses, teaching ‘raring taking into
accourt their own specific needs and requirements
‘is the strength ofthis consulting concept that prov
des a truly customized
allows the businessman to quickly pro’
investrent as well as put in place almost all of the
eveloped ideas and produc,
suing
“It’s not always a matter of creating new desserts,
but of improving the already existing ones”
0 good.MICHEL WILLAUME ——
Which are the main demands of pastry busines-
ses?
* depends on the business, Generally most demands
have 10 do with developing new products and sta
ring to my experience, 'd say hat
1 only way t0 emprove
rang, Bs
Product development is n
[Production or sales [tis by change our pracices and
she way we organize ourselves that the business can
really tke a step ‘ward, and thisis even more so in
she case of SMES,
Generally speaking, would you say that there is
© lack of professional knowled-
ze oF business mentality?
It largely deperds on the sector
and
ery fm visting, There
are gest cultural diferences and
‘that aready means a fot. But | do
find it very ervichng.
As a rule, professond knowledge
cor know how is good The problem
lies in that there is
tical Inowedge of th
themselves and of why and how
all shat
they are used in my opinic
is essential i» order to ensure per
‘We can improve production and sales not only by deve
loping new products. We can do that simply by improving
our already existing products. We can truly take a step
forward by changing our practices and the way we orga
nize ourselves.”
fect manvfacuring and reguanty of the production
because this has a direc impact in cur organization
within the workshop, product qualty and
satsfacion as well
Which are the latest trends in the sector? Where
‘are we headed to?
‘You could say that were going back to aur chidhoo-
Gs: desser's but updutng taste and appearan:
‘today’s cooking techniques. in my case, | usally resort
+o crymallized ratural fowers which are very wtract
ve and add a special touch in terms of decoration and
taste, Portions are becoming smaller and individual
cakes are preferred as wall
Is diet confectionery possible? Can you have
ood low-fat or low-sugar confectionery?
(OF course fis.As long as you hep formulas balanced
and tse noble substautes
What does it take to succeed in an elite pastry
‘competition?
Fulltime dedeation ard a lot of traning in order to
develop potersial And aso seeking the help of profes
ated in shit sort of
Ie there anything else you'd like to tell us?
Yes. lke to shark al the people who trusted me
from she very begining
his amazng adversure and
sho help me every day to provide a better servicRASPBMICHEL Wi
pastry dough
ie he powers into
ish the cocking
raspberry cream with rose perfume
the gelation i nd sau
ire Me pe ings ser Big to
bol sing all the dre, ui i
ruse by mn i ricer Reger unis
red raspberry glazeZ
z
GE ECLAIR WITH FRL
ORAN
CHOCOLATpastry dough
orange marmalade
whipped araguani ganache
fruity praline sable doughRobogbo Technology. More than just a machine.
Qbo Particularity perfection.
‘The choice of Integrated Qbo Technology for pastry and gastronomy
ives you the keys to a world of high quality, assistance and know-how,
always at your service to transform yaur ideas in successful products.
Once you tried it, you cannot live without It
OMCs -o9 LoLC
His desire to better himself his non confermism, his
feagerness to reach the top, but specially to say in it
are the qualties that made a young apprertice fom a
smal, prowncal bakery become not only the Werld
Champion, but aso one of the greatest pasry chefs
worldwide.
He was going to be a draftsman but he soon realized
shat that artic component that he already possessed
in fis youth could find another way another pith 70
show up. his own words" | had a sweet tooth and
| aso was very gerercus (essential qualities t0 be a
pasty chef), | fray decided +o become a pasry
cher"
[ris true that, compared to other neative or artistic
soplines, pasty-making provided him with an addi
‘ional satsfction ~ the possbiliy to offer pleasure 10
HRISTOPHE MICHALAK
the others "pleasure for their eyes and the possibilty
to arouse their deeper emotions", sates Michalak,
‘who, in that Ine, desires his actvty as that of a"crea
tor of chocalate and sweet emotions”
In 1995,he reaches a cuminating momert in his git
‘ering career: He succeeds in winning the Coupe du
Monde de la Patisserie, together with Philippe Rigllot
and Frédéric Devile. Christophe Michalak himself
refers 10 his success as “a great honor ‘or him and a
personal achievement And the most important thing
is that isa tile Or We" But itis aso an addtional
responsibiny because, for thisyourg chef reaching the
‘op isnot the only important thing ~the real challe
isto sayin te isthe current pastry chef at the
Hotel Plaza Athénée in Paris,
“I have a sweet tooth and I’m generous.
That’s why I became a pastry chef”
Pp so geod,HRISTOPHE MICHALAK
style and designer of new
Michalak quote sgh his rein
for xt and
¢ par
larly iv pasrymabirg:“There are those who | racer
" rear and seme memorable cand re sor
ings that ne ples reatior
ECLAIR PARIS-BRESTIM MILK SHAKE
ingredientsDELICIOUS MEMORIES semncisunmen 2009 cake coueerion
my plaza teddy
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ORES
1.800.558.5807
www.stoeltingfoodservice.comDOMINIQUE ANSEL
“DOMINIQUE ANSEL HAS FOUND
THE APPROPRIATE BALANCE TO FREELY DEPLOY HIS TALENT
AND CREATIVITY IN THE CONTEXT OF AN IMPORTANT
es CUISINE ee ae a eens uu :Dominique Ansel is a professional in methodology,
who aspires t
ching iti only possible ater mastering absol
perfection and who knows that rea
iy all
ot encugh, and neither is
eztv, Besides chem, itis necessary to add rigor,
srol technical dscpine and work.a lot of work.
fe started in the kitchen ofa restaurant in Beawvas,
rrorth of Parisi fis harvelard, Whenever he had the
chance, he tied his own ideas in pasty! occasionally
dehed into pastry and
really inspired. | was a
fourd out that there | was
1cted to the combination of
precision and creatvty that goes into baking and des
ser the chet remembers,
(Once he was certain that hs near future was bound
1 the sweetest sid
f the gastronomic arts, Ansel
moved to Pars where, after spending one year atthe
Pitisserie Peer he joined the well mown Maison
ophe Adan,
qbicty learned the disciplines of the trade for over
seven years rst in the viennoisrie and then with the
Fouchon, There, commanded by Chi
cakes And he alka leamed one of the secrets of
pas: the necessary compensition between aver,
secure and appearance. Thanks to his talent and abi
ligghe would soon assume respor
siilties which led bi
around the world visting the diffe
ores that Fouchon had, cre
ating new recpes and training all
those young professionals who jo:
ned the frm
fe pases on everything he expe
riences the passion and the fas:
ration that his job provides tim
witht is magical to tart with such
‘ample, pure ingredients, really so
DOMINIQUE ANSE
very Fle when you think of it buter, sugar
compl
degree of chemistry,
work. We must unders
and and
each ngredien: wil react
shen apply our artsy on top of that technical kno-
wedge.
Daniel Boulud invited
inique to work ip New
York with im and designated him chef pitssier at his
exdisie restaurant in the surmer of 2006, in such
rrew scene, very diferent fom a bakery of a pastry
store,he shows his best weapon: his ability to adapt to
a rew place quidiy and to impose his style. And
ways sticking to balance, he starts to create neat
deserts, wit
dlegant shapes and very precise davor
‘never more than three or four in the same dil
These are perfectly designed recipes and effectively
4 into practice in which there is no place for chan.
ce and nothing is more o less necessary These are
a
Daniels gasronen
ser, seasonal, in perfect harmory with
5. All thie has earned bien
ition fom Dariets customers and ‘fom the
press 10 such an extent that he soon found himset
arene
Ashe
bes: pastry chefs in the Uirited States,
jon between his sweet crea
tions and Daniel Boutds gastronomic offer is based
id freed
do just about any
thing | the on the dessert merusas long asit does not
invole white chocolate or bananas Al joking aside,
Danie is drecty involved in everything at his restau
experience, but he
rant, every aspe
Trusts my expertise and gues me great fe
reste and execute, That does no
rear be does ho
input on refring ourdesserts or suggesting ideasRASPERRY VACHERIN WIT
EMULSION, RASPBERRYDOMINIQUE ANSEL a —
moist chocolate biscuit
Sg mikchecote
23g four
af age
243g buter
35 mikchocobte chips
Mat the chocoite Ad the sof butter ino the meted chocolate
to lly combine, Combine te spar an Nr ce sledy ino the
thhcolae mixture. A the eggs and mi Fly ad the cole
hips Scale 4 Vos per sheet pan fame and bale at | 45°C for 20
42 ¢ fora
25g guccne
385g Caribe chocobte
Bol the gucose ane fondantin a pot to (48°C. Ad he chocolate
into the sugar and si gether un lly combined Spread ino 2
Ii ayer pata et col Break io smal pena Pace
‘urobot coupe unl becomes fe power ing fine seve,
S10 sols lige of carat cust over soncBs Bake a 180°C for
ipprosiaely 3 ues ul et rled ane shi,
mascarpone mousse
2 eaayolk
7h g casersugir
8 gle bance
2g waer
7) mascarpone
TB Way erry
Mic be gee bavarcie with water and st ase: Whip egg yh
on high Spore Cok he sugar to 121". Slowly pour into pe
Yells file wikingw create a pe A Lomb, siete,
‘eli cream to very soft peaks Temper the mascarpone dese,
id the ried eeu ane ie the ie & bore Fol it
the whipped cei. Freeze an then cut some square x en for
lanes the sis ia eulletine crumbs Aloe to complete
‘howe oe plting
dark chocolate feuilletine
57g felting
429g candle chocokte
Pa the feullecine ini mise with 3 pad attachment, Mek cho
feaetine and Mix everyihing ‘opther unt
srval pecs Spregleuletne onto a sheet pin
and let the dole uly se. Separate ino sal pecs fr pla
‘ing
chocolate sable
Be Pare souee
mile
be ee
Etat
aie
2:
(Cream the buter and ting sugar with apace. i together
almond Nouc aur and cocoa powec Ada o bute Scrape down
the of the bow to make sure a ngrecents ae ly cert
rie Ad leur de Sel Sly in ese rang sare they at
incorporaire we Spread dough onto set pn and chil. Shee
the cough te hnnes! ax pense on the sewn, Fea she's
Of dough Use sinc to cu pieces while he dough trogen, Bake
Bt 601 fw 12 rns
café brulot ice cream
2g colke
Sieg nik
58g cream
31g eagyoks
4g supe
41g rik powder
3g cry come
2g IC Sabir
0 & coguc
1 anda pod
1g lemon es
bog
a
8 denaman power
Bol he rik and the crear. Crush the coffee beans a eon
aed orange avira ove are aon, anise nh rik
foe 15 manus, Wink opi rll ry glace a ke cea
stale ini the egg yoll Slow pour the hot rk fo the yok
Iris, Four all ae and yolks Larkin the pot an cock on a
tow heat to crate a crime ange aca cogeae. Keep overnigitin
the reigeraton Spin te ‘allowing oa
HE WECLIT RUTTHE CHOCOUASE SGU ON TORCETIE HOUMOIST CHOCOLATE BISCUIT WITH MASCARPONE CREAM. CRISPY FEUILLETINE.
CAFE BRULOT ICE CREAMDOMINIQUE ANSE!
RASPERRY VACHERIN WITH FROMAGE
SORRET LEMON OLIVE OIL EMULSION, RASPBERRY
MERINGL
raspberry sorbet
S32 g raspberry puree
Mog aypucene
20g invert sur
0g wacr
yg er
Sg sable
Raspberry Sorbet: Make a syrup ih te water supa stabi
ane ery gluco an hen pour over the epbery puree, Hoke
Seright ane pin the tbing
fromage blanc sorbet
ag waer
ary glcose
ser
Sorbet stabitaer
lemon je
rege bla
2
2B
3
Make a syrup withthe water sigur stable ae dry gucose ane
then pour over the fromage bla ae lemon juice Hold ovr
right and sp te folowing
olive oil foam
226g water
Sl og ser
22g ove ail
45° lemon pice
7 8 ghin
45 & cxpwhites
Make a syrup withthe water and sugac Add the ole oad the
Temon juice ool anc 2 pti at 45°C. Mi the ep hes
Uni they are cocked to 20-05°C, Pace ina Cad lager and char
peaks
raspberry gelée
362 B raspberry puree
9g pehsinshens
30g raspherry arom
Bloom the gen in cold water ring the perry puree 10
boihand 368 the gelatin ae arora: chil
Amore Raspberry era
1 drop of red ccoring
Combine the supa he alone power: he Nour ane eur de se
‘Aad the buater and mx make sr cans, rh with as
pbery exact ang red coloring Pass through a rack Bk
30°C fr 20 minut,
raspberry Swiss meringue
673) powdered sub
306 § Cag uhles
1 3 red oad clrng
‘Whisk the poured supa
Pisce the Lov over bain mare and cock wing unit i
hes 45
Remove the baal from the bain mare snd plc it.on the miver
fied ih the oie tate
‘Whip unl varme x inthe food coorng andthe raspberty
se whites together nthe boa
Spon with a comb onto a spat tne she ake he
meringue at UG for 10 to 12 rites.A
o
4 te Winning
eG Org 4 | i World Pastry Champions
since 2002
The Ultimate Pastry, Savory & Beverage Ingredient Manufacturing Company!
|ORETTI (266-7388)
| call 1.805.983.2903
jo@amoretti.com
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/EWALD NOTTER
WINNING MAJOR COMPETITIONS ALL OVER THE WORLD IS
ONLY PART OF CHEF EWALD NOTTER'S CONTRIBUTION TO THE
CONFECTIONARY ARTS. HIS DEDICATION TO SHARING HIS
KNOWLEDGE THROUGH HIS PASTRY SCHOOLS IS THE OTHER.
How Sweet It IsEWALD NOTTER
By Liso Shomes
Sy to thnk that a native oF Zisic
Switzerland with ts
sion of produsing som
clite and pastries coud
me an award-vireing confectionary arts.
Buc to hear chef Ewald Notter tll his very
areer happened almost by accident.
was growing up it was normal when you
a apprentice
roils ard
fur years had s
chose pastry. But | could just as easly have cho
sen carpentry, window decorating or anythin
Nomer."! was lucky to choose the right
pa
And he's not the only
unate one, Known workdwi
de for this exqusite craftsmanship, eqpecially # pulir
and blowing sugar (Notter has auchored two wel re
pected b a
Pulling & Sugar
1 Textbook for Sugur
id "Das st
has wor
Blowing
Sugar"), No
bed and competed in over 10 countries
Zucker—That!
fe has won I5 gold medals inducing one
with distrction at the 1964
Culinary
Clympies in Frankfurt and another shat
same year atthe ntemasonal World Cake
the US
‘oupe du Monde team at
cored 699 cut of 700
points orsugir heping
the team win its first
medal in the hi
competi
tory of the
ion But Nomer
buon to pastry
beyond awards and impressive
Since 1982, he has used his talents to help
medal
United $
others get started ir
otter his reason fr gesting into pat
could use my
ples"! warted to do something where
hands" he says Combine that desire witha talent fr
painting and deccrsting and ts easy
Netter has managed to stay pasionate about pa
Stil get very excited and emt
things ite something new or some:
ck be adi
f me it doesn't
was while working at Confsserie Spruengl in Zutich
that Notter’s curiosity realy took hold There, he had
the opportunity to werk with pasty chef Willy Fund,
100k the
arpuling sis, wh
ly bloomed duting
young Notter under his wing," re
his ume and absorbed whatever | coud" says Notter,
who often spent fis free time helping Mund and, in
the process, developed his
ving and pling,
ip 1982, Notter decided he wanted to be sel emp!
yeet Lacking the mears to have his own pastry shop. a
then 27-yearold Notter, opted to open his fst scho
the International School of Confectionary At
SSCA), in Zurich 't was also at ths same time
cmpete."At the begening when {had
ct
ple what
tial to go out and show
id da" he ye "You can
without competing, But gives you an
tivity and a way for you to show your shi
And show did as bis rumerou
wsrate. But ju esl at
awards
i ae
competing came easy to him.To over
come his nerves, Notter would spend hour
prepa
res of each
fe would ako anah
rade them win and
1p them. Pus, Noter
what could go
sudyin
nes oth
competion and back
determine what he could do
Would go over all the possibile
w he would f f."The better
vwrong and figure cut
ou are the less nervous you will be and the
prepared
better you wil psBut despite how wall he has done at competition
sill pure work, says Notte often becoming more of a
business—and a very expensive one at thi
Competing ie no fun" he sayef) ware to have in
go to the beach" Ard no matter how many wins H
has had, Noter is quick to give credit to his fri
chefs and ‘Tends who have played a role m his
'm chanklul for everybody who helped me
during my career and 'm rot shy to mention allshese
arg fllsime in Switzerland
his schoo! to America, Over
where he was
adth
freedom pasty
things in America tha | was not able
Hand cresvity wise,” he says." you
make a syle they [Americars]fke,they stand behind
you.At home, sometimes it can be t00 tradtional
otter frst established ISCA in Maryland, specializing
in chocolate and pastlage decorations and candy
making, He also stared in four videos in chocolate
and sugar decoration for she Culnary Insttie of
partner Severly Karner ard
seamed up wih busine
me
present location in Orlando, Fonds expanding he
curriauirs rtualy changrg the name to the
AAs the srall school, Notter and his staf of qualified
estryRamriors alone alli a arte safeties
studerss in modern-day
confectionary and the undamertals of pacry a
he science behind ft its easier
European Baking and
Pastry Program cakes place Monday-Thursday, with
ime slots avalable to accommodate the sched
f working students, Classes are small, with 1
more than 16 students in each, with course curmiau
lump ten dierent areas incuding artisan breads can
cles and praines, classical cakes and tarts and base
Since 1982, he has used his talents to help others get
started in the confectionary business at his schools in
both Europe and the
preksion and eae ening n acc, Note
United States
recogrizes the place of convenience produc in
world of busy pastry chefs today and ofen works ck
sely with ingredient dstrbutors "Of course, | wart my
ssuderss to knew how to my fom scratch
but | also wart them to know crvenies
fe products and to be able to see the diference
price wise and qualiy-wise between the two,"he says,
nce students graduate, hool uses their
yoNower
er profession today
industry co
help them
bf ak
ar we have & st everyte
where you can study ‘r six months and have a job
right away And while in these tough mes he admis
the economy does have an effect onthe industry hes
not worried. People always want
special ard unique in pastry" says Notter. "People
aways wart to hive dessetEWALD NOTTER
ingredients
KUMQUAT-PASSION FRUIT PRALINEingredi
a TROPICAL CHOCOLATE PRALINES
Molded Prainglace
butter
sri aves
wrt oclate
coco baer
raspberry puree
‘Srawberry puree
fermon jas
ice
In pot bring rem pure and min ees to. Lo
‘Once te cream hs came toa Boikremoe rors heat an imme
date cover wih pst wrap
Letit seep tor 10 minutes then stn,
“Wise in eran juice pectin an ups
Bring the mire toa secon Lei
Paar over chocolate and it 10 asmooth shiny condisterey.
(Coal ganache to 90°F and then ae bute,
Mie wih an emerson Lender
Fl the molds when the mine comes to 80°F
STRAWBERRY-MINT PRALINE
‘Yk 108 Tates
‘sucersren How
EAWART SAD HOLD
‘AY ED.COCOA LTTIRAT AN ANGLE CRIN THETOR OFTHE HEART Uh?
‘940 OF ID COLORPeek |
FES ae
Millésime
A journey towards perfection.
Oropucce
Alto el Sol Madirofolo
eco)
& Creativity
WRciagKOICHI, IZ
He is the frst japanese prae winner of the World Crocalare Masters and | the Jopanese team to win the second prize of WPTC 2008 as
1a team leader Koch tzumi ahuoys gets attentions from partepants in contests, How dt he surprise ther ths time? What kind of tools dict
he bring for chocolate-makng? And they see hs creation and admire hs estinee sense of coo: HE THINKS THAT HIS
SENSE OF COLOR IS PERHAPS INFLUENCED BY NATURE IN
EHIME, HIS HOMETOWN.
By Reiko Matsuno
Ehime is a part of Shikoku, the smallest land in the
Japanese archipelago, Located between Seto inland
sea and the Paciic Ocean, Shime has a mild diate
and is known for various ctrus and chesrut“Urike
‘urban areas with forests of buildings | was born and
rrised in the heart of nature's bounty Nature taught
ime the real colors ofthe sea, the mountains or tw
light and how to express cher in confection” apan
has four dearcut seasons and the Japanese are sens
‘ive to changes in seatons His sense of seasons seems
beener:That is because he is a son and grandson of
“Wagashi shokunin’ japanese syle confectioners
Japanese-style confectioners make sweets inspired by
pnature represerting exch of the 12 months, auch as
bydrangea in june or maple in October; He used t0
help bis father and grandfather until he let home and
‘moved to Tokyo, where he joined the Confectionery
College,
‘ollow, whether Japanese-style or Eurcpean cor‘ec
‘lon. In his second year; he sensed that European
pastry woud become much more fun in the future,
fe was not sue in bis rst year which way 1
‘Ater graduating atthe college, he started working at
cone ofthe mos farous pastry shops in Tokyo. He got
‘he opporsurity to meet and leur from renowned
pastry chef incuding Frédéric Sau who was a cons!
tant to the shop,
'zumi said. "Choco
te makes you happy with just one
bite, ts eal pleasure to gure out the delicate balan
ce of tases ina lite bonbon au chocolat. | don't have
much experience in chocclatemabing but in other
words no stereonpe ties me down. | use urcomen:
sional tools which | found at an art supply ore. DY
store or hundred yen store”,
He never hestates to expand Niswerld, So faghe has
collaborated with some designers and architects, and
this fall he plans to presert an ‘edble hat! made of
chocolate together with a hat designer: And a bigger
challenge avai hie this year. He lef ‘Cenier, a
pastry shop in a suburb of Tokyo, ater being emplo-
yed there forrine years, to setup his own pastry shop
‘ext yea: “in my shop, | wars to installa showcase for
chocolate, which | did't have at Ceriser: | want to
bake breads, t00
is ist of wishes s unlimited.
0 good.NAIL ART CHOCOLATES
shell
TOOLS WHICH IZUMI USES FOR MAKING CHOCOLA.
TE PRODUCTS INCLUDE A SCRAPER BOUGHT AT A
CARPENTER SHOF, A LEEK SHREDDER FROM A ONE.
COIN SHOP;TOOLS FOR CLAY WORK, ETC. HE RARELY
BUYS TOOLS AT CONFECTIONERY SUPPLIERS FORapricot jelly
apricot jasmine ganachecaramel chocolate
walnut nougatvanilla and Tonka bean ganache
speculoos
orange confitstrawberry jelly
lime ganacheImagine the Possibilities.
oD bo oo
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Joy@ChicagoMoldSchool.com ChicagoMoldSchool. comMICHEL.BRAS.
WITH THE PASSING OF TIME HE HAS BECO-
ME A GURU AND AN UNDISPUTABLE REFERENCE IN CON-
TEMPORARY CUISINE.aguice, in the Aubrac pl
with expe
the French
chet plays bi we. Ch one hand a
uchiee
sure, ight stone, and vegetation are trarsrrined in
each and every one of the spaces and crextons 9
her Bras, indudin
aii
the new apartmer
fe setting sun, On the other hard, bis
<4 son al play an equally
service. Those in charge
ein the most pure re
gous serse, a deep pho
phy thar fllowing the current tends
rary abstractions keeps the essentials of ight slence,
1a taste for nature without fers or masks..chese,
as Michel tell us # the Sllowing interview.have bec
cians of a diferent wa
what we now as hor
Michel Bras is now able
the brillare coniibutions of hie
Aubrac pliteau which can resutt in a sprrual an,
shove all emotional experience in every single sense
ofthe word. From his athlogcal vegetable Gargilow
to bis mult a pa
re mirimalim serves as a base for the favors best
ass own words the
esp
NIAC: which are cely “a combination of elem
reeures and favors visions and arcevas hat stimulate
sur senses and are a preview of stronger sensitive
revelations to come, Provocative, a “riac” enghter
iacsare pro
ey diy.to season oF
there are condi
iments (orange peels green arse seed, pepper... cl
elder oregano...) drinks (rata...) doughs (
svarine) and vinegars (Banjul)
What does cuisine mean to you?
Which way is contemporary cuisine headed?
wed my int
worried abou abways fo
How Important is the quality of @ product?
essential, the foundation king, There's
that cuisine wouldn’s exist without qualty pro
auc she market with my som four times a
week 1 60 km kilometers away‘Are products like foie, caviar, or seafood an obli-
gation to serve in @ high standing restaurant?
How do popular products fit in this type of envi
The inspiration for my cuisine comes rom my child
hood, products called “not noble’, ke bacon, bread,
rik sky and range p re typral during
hristmas 8 ingredients always reappear i
arth wu in a cuisine hat all
ds eras rather than jus looking lke then
Hos the concept of luxury changed in terms of
your clients’ demands in the last few years?
lets demands have comp a
handshake
bread,
irporsar
Is excellence in cuisine synonymous to wealth?
What do you think of the tendency to develop
new, quality gostronomicel formules at @ lower
price?
prices in merus are higher beca rein
the kitchen
Jemands a certan amount of emp
The NIACS enlighten, excite and question our senses. The
NIACs are products which | use to
Xk with every day,
to se
son, to mix, to blend.
1 popular: one par
© make a eral drean
1 and more comforta
1y.our doors are open pe
le the quality and exclusivity of products secured
for the future?
hve 10 realize that it is thelr respon
We need to know how to recogni .
wpplers and motivate ther ing ther produ
air price.They need to be heard, t0 be cared fr
What are you working on at the
moment?
fr everything and nothing | ary to Sve
daly ie itenselyzmy garden, my kitchen
Iry collaborators, our guests
What are your projects for the near
future?
nirue cooking and aways with r0
brisée
200 pte brs, Ir tick, Ct nto four 7a | re
Store uncer fo 20 mies an ter Dake
Mow oven - Remove wen they star 10 brown.
blane
TE iromage bine
@ gdouble cream
2 pain sheets
Retycrte the gun dees cod water Mic the ite chee
{ae he cma wh api era ure ae ad
‘Racin the pin shews and mich te eran Spree ee
Spanheret shew. Caner wth anher shee and ll ut 2
‘Wels of Brevi He ep ling Sore i ees
tocOnce the chee hs cures cari Petr ean
Strein eigen
crystallized pumpkin.
meee
1000 gsr
1000 gwar
Peel the pumpin wth 2 proper knife. Ct thes
and then ce each hal two use thes on Blanch
bling waiter for dee to ue ruts, Prepare a syrup wih he
Sugar an | ate Bing 23 Lei ane! ers the see
pumpkin Remove fr the heal.cover with plastic wrap ard eave
ose ouside In orci 0 check the cenaiy Of sygazuse a rec
‘ometer ich can b= purchased at any store sping fy pty
raking The ‘lowing dag strain the grup ane eu 10 125.Acd
TCBtucom, reese he pumpin ini hw ake for 24
more hous Res he grup oa ery of 9 a ths ive
Ieave the pumplin in ioe two days a ren temperature Repeat
‘his process agin bringing the syrup to a densi o and keep
‘he puri is lis m= ine the syrup or ree cays In ths
phase can be preserve at roomy temperature fora tw dys.
chive oi
Bod gupesecal
50° Sate fees
Cut the tive rio 2 cm pins. Place inthe meer together with
ihe lane! ik Pass through a Sra 1 rome impure.
Allow to macerte fr thee fo our hours. Tas can be stoned
inevrigeraton fora lew ayn,
AT THE LAST MOMENT
1 dive beaes
‘th he hp of tect he ys prin his of
rc perp a ean of rags be Pace tec ce
on piper 3 cand en
{etalon he tace andy rete pe wh some dive obADOnM,:Lis) To) 7d loly|JOAN. BALSAS
sd eect br rmere ol psig cto bh ee
Fe format wa ra po of Sram Osean! ee wy ex oa Rest ole wren
fan ued the efiyana hs gos ghee tecenary tates cero megan on esl ered on
os prved uth he open of 0 new tres ne com Ban he har of nfsroney fom Bowles Catone nd Spon ond
Vt rnreswes he igre preset tos eth recreated os cared pe sce ae your 2000, AS JOAN
BAIXAS HIMSELF STATES: ‘IT WAS ABOUT TURNING A FAMILY
BUSINESS INTO A COMPANY, NOT A BIG ONE, BUT A COM-
PANY AT THE END OF THE DAY’. A COMPANY PREPARED TO
STAND FOR AT LEAST 50 YEARS MORE.
ip the pasry shop opened last year the frst boxes of
bortbons Babas launched in 1970 are exposed, tis
surprising to see how its exthetcs and fs concep are
stil ip force four decades later, And this is because
Francesc Baieas, who had founded his shop in 1958,
‘was among other things the precurser in the presen:
sation of the bonbon as a desired object as a very
special gf hat had to be dhessed property As well as
other contributions, this made Babas gain a place of
honor ip the history of Barcelona's pastry industry,
‘After introducing new entena inthe managerment and
organization of the company in the year 2000, Baas
ook a new path that resuited in the aforementioned
cexparsion. Nowadays, the company employs over 60
over a wide offer in the felds of pastry
raking as well a: catering, In bis
current owner's words, joan Babast was about tur
jing a family business into a compary;not a big one,
but a company atthe end ofthe daycand shat derman
ded applying new criteria regarding the internal orga
zation and the optimization
athough we had to remain ith
our identity
in that sense, Babas defines his offer as ‘universal
pasty, since not only tradtioral specsites can be
found. updated and renovated, but also more modern
0 good.AN BAIXAS
P
At a certain ' srply ursurpasable. We keep on male i'd modern pbsserie, tractor and
i ras. > bunch rai quty one, founded on
moment, we
big and individual ones We modified the ongi- a profound respect for the artisan t 1
modified the original ra recpe.sotened he buter eam andchangedthe renovated management artenir re Ba
ipe, softened th
butter cream and changed the type of almond, but it is
still a sara in essence, and the customers are grateful to
see we still make themMILK AND RASPBERRY CREAM WHITE CHOCOLATE MOUSSE WITH COCO-
NUT AND YUZU
28) gmk chocoite courerure 8 og nik
24) UMT fea cream 1g ape
hg capes
290g UT cream 8g raw cocoms leh
Bei efi rm and gery ric it with the previous mete 2 tin stews
Counerture unis tecure ime to that of mayne fob
rec inal kn the wippet car Homogenie th the hp 10g white dcotite
ola blender 200g whipped cre unsupared
5g yunleh
Bg malurdiime zest
raspberry-chocolate gelée -
600g rasphery purée Prepare the cream by combining the mi he sugar the cocorat
360g milechocoite couverture sr the egg yolks ane heating ther 10 86% Age inthe elan
3 hainshemis she's, previously soled ang drained. Pour the mune Oe the
“white checolie melee wo 39°40" Filly (ld the hipped
reir, he yun Fes an the ie zest
Montace
TURN THE HOLD UPSIDE DOW AND URSE WTA THR LASER OF
GHOCOLATE MLL WI THE WHITE CHOCOLATE. MOUSSE AND
TURNTHE OAD UrStSC BOWNAND URE ITWATATHINLAYETLOF RAL SEALWIT ASHORE CAKE BASE
CHOCOLATE FLL WTI THE THUNTLE CHAM AND THIN ADO TH
RASOURHRYONCCCHAT CELA FRALLY SAL ATHA SPORIGE CANE
na
8PRODUCTOS KELMY, S.A rasa
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Products for the
manufacture of
confectionery
and ice cream
For over 50 years, we have been
developing and supplying workshops with
high-quality products and raw materials.
We are backed up by our reputation
within the industry and among customers
in our country and overseas, as well as
by the quality seals awarded by the
European Union.
® Hard egg yolk
© Sweetened yolk topping for cakes
@ Sweet potato filling
© Rapid albumin
@ Baking marzipan
® Soft egg yolk
© £99 yolk for decoration
© Almond crocanti
© Castor sugar and moisture
® CustardInner Beauty
‘Small, compact, and elegant, Minex ulcers are
admired.
Theirsmal size
wrelines anda large, carefully
selected palette -from sober colours to lively
fect adaptation to all
needs and settings. This feature becomes its
rmainidentiy trait
Whichever the place. thedécor orstyle.aMinex.
Isthereto match your imageTHE REVITALIZER OF BRAZILIAN PATISSERIEFLAVIO FEDERICO
He knows the flovers of hs country as nobody eke does, ako the aromas, and the igredkents of an undecexported gastronomy. And he han
des thom by using the modem techmques he feared whie receving hs trainng at FEcole Lenétre (in Pons France) ane wile working rope
ther with other professiona’s acclmed in they countries and oversees. That was a rely beneficial combination and with surprising results
HIS CREATIONS, MADE WITH PRODUCTS SUCH AS CUPUACU, CAJA, CACHACA, CORN-
MEAL, ETC., HAVE THEIR OWN IDENTITY AND PERSONALITY AND LINK MODERNITY TO
TRADITION.
Flowo Federico is one of the mast refined and renowned chefs in Bazi, He wos born to an itaion famly sete in Sd0 Paulo, and wien he
vas only sx years old he mace hs own desserts. Nowadays, he runs Sédoces. a innovative and exclusive fer frm which he ofers hs 100%
ortsan sweets ond hs natal bonbons and ice cree. Federico performs his duties in an active and seless wy. He has been chosen to updo
te the trzitional Beazlan recipes with a contemporary mind and with the responsiblity ro respect hs people's essence and gastronomic her
toge.
Why did you decide to become o pastry chef? ea
Tr rorya Italian farily ane grew up next to the stove
aengside my grandmother who was fanatic cook, Not
orga lvoe avalible only Local 10
those in South Amer
suppres «ik vs prserred sweets ane piers What the most important thing in the pastry trade?
insead of savory dies. can remember adways sting 10 Ibeiew aches mai purposes to rake people happy ane
erchange my silled dishes for choccites and ule é provide wonder fd 0 the custome This the man
bedi each med, AL the age OF 7, my tends began aking ren tat should mosvate you We are not mane stars
ime to mike cakes and pists fer ther Lirias. After your primary ambition i to lok for TV sppearanees or
raking and seling many cakes for parties, | new | det
want to sop Froey then on. was in love with sexy bh
happy people were when they were eating good pases
What do you find most fercinatingin your job?
To me, (am fascinates to fe new lar ys that bring
smiles to people aces, 1's amazing how power his sen
sitions a think ofa betierfob than one whi
happiness and sles when people gather together 10 ea,
‘How do you define your desserts?
My cesses ane sophisicate coneporary and express
cawitve, now combinations of traction! Brain recipes
ccuing on the use of ox lca trp ingens, Mer
more than IG years of devdoping thee unique combina
‘ins, ur business has become recopiaed a creative ea
in Brak ach yw comin teach pape rom
fer courses an they ways tl us How amazed they
rragasine coverage.you wl lose your focus of making good
food,
What do you think about the future of artisan pastry:
making?
My option is that artsn pastry sil has 2 lo of room to
OW because nobody has made 2 machine o create pe:
fect pastries OF course you can fd autcmatc gigs t0
tie macire
neo create the combina
er tings bs you sil need seo
om vars and colors, fn the
on ho inks the cratve sp sour erg and nobody
an reproduce this wih computers and see, at least not
yet At the same re you shoul ignore
improverents. Those provers are berg r=
aed to help reduce our marwsl work in she Hen THis in
tei
tum es us more tne to think about creative ess Thee
is sila ashe universe of unexplored fees and inge
lens no orm has re Leone.
0 good.RO NNCe NS)
aipirinha ganache‘
e
Sam A eeFLAVIO FEDERICO
ie: 10 servings
butter squash confit
4
4 burnt lene (cakium ode)
eB Ker
2 Gnmsaren stk
4 black pepper coms
by fs
peel o half ime
peel of half orang:
sweet corn cream
280g ewy ers (398 fa)
40 § canta set
Heat the i in the yucea flax and 10 30} Superine sup
Fry it or wo mints the gata eaves (3 grams)
h
tenet om Put the gelatin in cl water to soften,
ae eat the crear the cocome milk ane the com end ane
pis trough a fine mesh
Jabuticaba confit Bod enn he pt csc
o_o “ Cool itfor 6 hers and whip to sot peaks
SE die ade cashew nut tuiles
Moc he pulp with the pee he sugar the ater and 2 foisted and sted cashew mu
Levi cookin cooper pan in avery wheat uni
55° (about one hour Dissolve the cam syrup inthe microwave,
toners Brush on Spt spi nth he nts
7 Babe ina IBCMC oven eho) unt stops 1
pletely ane heep in an aright one
‘TO ASSEMBLE AND SERVEIf you like the good honey,
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TRADITIONAL PRODUCTS FROM BOUNTIFUL SPAIN
WWW. mAtiZerpana.comSTEF AERTS
The Belgian Stef Aerts, Chocolate Center Supervisor’ of Belcolade Chacolates is a symbol of matunty and creativity as proved in hs bonbons
uth whch he explores new presentations
ONTHE ONE HAND, THE UPSIDE-DOWN BONBON LOOKS LIKE A BOWL CONTAINING
ATYPICAL CREME BRULEE TOPPED WITH CARAMEL OR CINNAMON. ON THE OTHER
HAND,THE ‘DOMED’ BONBON COMBINES TWO VERY DIFFERENT FLAVORS AND TEXTU-
RES, AND AT THE SAMETIME IT IS ATTRACTIVE DUETO ITS UNUSUAL FORMAT.
Closely bound to his country’s pastry jewel Belgian chocolate, Stef Aerts knows in depth about @ product whah is absolutely popular and is
present in some of the most prestizous chocolate manufacturers workdaide. Ths is the reason why 6 so interesting to valve these innova
tions in the very heart of the Belgan chocolate industry In an interview, he tel us about hs personal vison of banbons.
Which is the secret ofa really good bonbon? what the best combinations for that chacolate are,
The balance between iis coating an its filing ~ the lat helps the
ter shouldbe a75 oF 80% afit.The precte harmony bet. chocolater find the best combinations not to mention
ween the rypical choc @ and an acid, sweet or the textures.
biner fave
reciente mat be vey) ub What & the Belgian customer @ better fon of
wal byor ofthe chosen lassie and traditional bonbons or more innovative
‘ones?
Nowadays there is a wide range of
I procucts wil aay
spac of ciferent on any chef can fee an if we look back to 57
fh the fh
row they ae part ofthe blo (ssorment)
[New opportunities are arising in which people
‘offer bonbons in situations different from the usual
‘ones (asa present os a take-oway in o shop...)
in Belgum today i's becoming a haba to serve a des
ert tagether with bonbons mares to oiferent wines,
we work with Creax to obtan a Matnxwith Tis way. ater the meal you get a nice three-bonbon
the type of chocolate in the center and then fr
sesortment along vith the wine that marries them,
0 good.passion mango
2nd ganache uganda
ingredientsPackaging for the best chocolatiers in the world
SINCE 1985 5 )
NV Belgian Sweets Design S.A.
N.V Belgian Sweets Design S.A. - Av. Zénob Gramme, 16-1480 Saintes. BELGIUM - Tel, + 322 390 09 09 -Infoaibec.be - www. bac beOse ROMERQ
Y SHOULD WE LOOK FOR A SUBSTITUTE IF THE ORIGI-
NAL IS AT OUR DISPOSAL? such i she philosophy that José Romero, teccher ot the Pastry Schoo! of
Borcelona’ Pastry rade conveys to tho public. Oysters caviar and fo re tree noble ngraclents which one can find in the finest fd ars-
tocragy. tts te that ther pice farty high, buts a0 tue thot there ui cvs be @ customer who wi aot enounce the pleasure of
authontty and exclsvenss. Besdes contain product have reputation for beng prohbsvayexpensi _—
them they happen tobe less expensive thon expected or ther proftabity tuns out 10 be clear far
A VERY INTERESTING SPECIAL FEATURE TYPICAL OF ROMERO'S:
PASTRY-LIKE APPEARANCE DESPITE BEING SAVORY PRODUCTS. AN
A ‘TOASTED’ MERINGUE, A TURRON OF FOIE WITH CHOCOLATE
PED CAVIAR BLINI ARE SOME EXAMPLES OF CREATIONS WHICH
WORDS THAT BELONG TO THE WORLD OF PASTRY AND WHICH,
DER BETWEEN CUISINE AND CONFECTIONERY.THE VALUE OF AUTHENTICITYingredients
mascarpone cream
blinis
ingredients
‘cucumber cylinders
RN BLINIS WITH Mi
AND CAVIAR
CARPONEingredients
crunchy vegetables
oyster water
oyster tartar
steamed meringue
burnt oysterMini
format
Ultimate
creativity,
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aoe
Frozen Foie Gras ?
Wiese
RouciE
FOIES GRAS ET GASTRONOMIE DEPUIS 1875
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red fruit comy2 ee
PASTRY PRODUCTSOLIVE
FINANCIER
ingredientsD> haz
Ves
La GLa 4
For more information:
AMMA Cecile eM eeecoupe du monde de patisserie 2009
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in ‘oe
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TIDBITSGelato with lots of character
As reserved and determined as the city of ‘Turin, for over half a century
Aromitalia and its Italian gelato ingredients have heen enjoying respoct
tra intcreat kom gelato males al ove the word rea
Conscious of the dificultes ofthis ancient job -in which the gelato maker
achieves success through dedication to his product - Aromutatia has always
looked for the delicate balance between, on the one hand, simplicity of use
and, on the other, scrupulous attention paid to quality and to the well known
refinement of Ttalian taste.
‘Through the years Aromitalia has continued to propose innovative products
ot only thanks to a meticulous research of excell als but
o by cleverly combining and ensuring a fruitful, direct collaboration with
lato makers in the ideation of the top recipes
ind it’s in the foreign markets, where ice eream makers traditionally
fe less support, that Aromitalia’s policy of helping and assisting
Hie gelato talc end of accompanying him in the colture and business of
Italian gelato has been most evident.
Aromitalia has branches in Spain and Mexico and production plants in
Brazil and Argentina. The new Turin plant of over 15,000 sq meters eaters
for the needs of our Italian and European customers.
‘We have recently opened a branch with storespace in Phoenix (Arizona) F
and another distribution store in Auanta (Georgia).
Grisiano Ferrero
‘Our aim is to improve and strengthen the ties, assistance and ratebe ce curative
service for both today’s and tomorrow's gelato makers. hie
all >
During the Second World War Gugtielmo Ferrero, Cristiano Ferrero’s father, took over Nectar,
which had been founded in the distant 1923 under the name Premiata Ditta Soave of Torino.
The company used to produce flavors for confectioners, essences for drinks and, with the
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the temple of gastronomic savoir faire
THE SCHOOL KEEPS ALIVE THE MAIN OBJECTIVES TO WHICH ITS
FOUNDER, GASTON LENOTRE, ALWAYS STUCK TO: A TASTE FOR
THE THINGS WELL DONE, THE RESEARCH FOR EXCELLENCE AND
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ning policy Gaston Lenétre used to apply’
‘Approximately 40% of your trainees are not What initictives have you launched as the
French, what i the profile of those students who Director of "Ecole?
come from abroad? created ‘Signatures de Chefs’. special course where
cf them are pasicnatel We welcome srainees gest andre
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how ances sor factors the pr areal succes
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be to Gequers more shar [000 professcrals ona You are head of a school with immense prestige,
chy 70 diy bass coming * very simulate Grthe such as Lenétre is, What does that mean for you?
f sto have the daly opportunity started a th née as a trainee, then | jo:
onals ideas wit the sta o 3g team and | H
Which is the latest course program that you frre carry on my career bycrarsmvieg al had
have recently updated? learre during those years, and to share my guined
Provide several new courses, ach as!The art of knowhow with other people whose passicr
rmacaroens, (Ecole Lendire won an award at Eurepain sar
stribtion, or th wive course), with class ad 7
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riques fr cakes ad ertremets The plate and day | am very proud of managing *his
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ferhand,the catering and man concem to continue the important ‘raining
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for chocolate, for high quality gelato,
Aol Comal odnt=c 1G (oA oi 0) Mal Stare Ut(olaT- G0] Cam
Love for delicate flavours,
rela ieee es Nom accr- UU)
and the smoothness of chocolate.
Trittico® Executive harbours the unique sinergy
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“AssempLy
Lit ROA MAKYRAVCHED COLE WY TI CENTER OF THE BEpel
x wf To Sh pilSO _ GOOD.. STAFF
Carlos Barrachina Alberto Ruiz
Esther Vila Jordi Segui
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Montse Crusat
E Jaume Cot, Lluls Concepeién, Fernando Toda, Eva Carreseo
Crsting Méndez, Lourdes Mortines
‘ ‘Maite Abril, Terese Galiana
crus
Prisma Artes Grafices, #1
18-52273-2008
2019-2034
Joon Martin, Sendra Romero
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