CT1203

How to do your own measuring,

pattern drafting, fabric selection,
cutting, and sewing for a perfect fit

Anna Romaniuk and Ellen Knight

.\,;~LIVIERS E L EM EN-fAt~Y :5Cri lJOL

' J..l31 5 - 75th AVENUE
.., DELTA, B.C.
:'.:.-,_. . V4C 1 H4

4~
Copp Clark Publishing
A Division of Copp Clark Limited
Vancouver Calgary Toronto Montreal
Beautiful fabrics and exciting styles make pants an
important part of every woman's wardrobe for office,
leisure, and formal wear. Pants has been written as a
practical guide for those who wish to design and sew
"best-fitting" pants for every occasion . The text con-
tains all the information you need for accurate measur-
ing, drafting the pattern to match the measurements,
selecting a suitable fabric, and then cutting out and
sewing your new garment.
Home sewers have been learning since 1967 how to
draft their own garment patterns, through the Home
Study Course offered by the Huron School of Fashion.
Anna and Walter Romaniuk, founders of the school,
have helped thousands of home sewers to solve their
designing and fitting problems. The drafting proce-
dures given in this book are the result of years of ex-
perimentation and testing by Walter Romaniuk. Using
this simple, easy-to-follow method, you can draft a pat-
tern for slacks to your own individual measurement and
body contours. Regardless of your shape or size, you
will have a perfectly-fitting garm_ent in the style of your
choice, and you can do the same for any number of
relatives and friends. This all-new method has made
pattern drafting so easy a child can do it.
This publication is the result of many years of com-
bined experience in designing, pattern drafting, sew-
ing , tailoring , and teaching . Every member of our staff
has contributed to it in some way and Janet Log ie has
given valuable assistance in preparing the manuscript.
It is our hope that this book will provide the means for
you to enjoy many happy hours of drafting and sewing,
and the pride of accomplishment that you will experi-
ence when wearing your own perfectly-fitting "custom
made" garment. Note that the words pants and slacks
are used interchangeably throughout the book.
All measurements are given in both the English and
the Metric systems. In every case the measurement is
given in inches followed, in brackets, by the measure-
ment in centimetres. The measurement in "em" is not
always exactly equivalent to the measurement in in-
ches. Both measurements are sufficiently accurate.

Anna Romaniuk
Ellen Knight
1 The pattern draft 3 Sewing techniques 25
An Introduction to Pattern Drafting 1 Sewing, Pressing, Fitting the Basic Slacks 25
Measuring 2 Zipper Closings 26
Drafting the Basic Slack Pattern 4 Fly Front Zipper 26
The Basic Slack Pattern 6 Side Zipper 30
Adjustments for Figure Prob!ems 8 Additional Types of Closings 31
Protruding Stomach 8 Loops and Buttons 32
High Hip Curve 8 Lacing 32
One High Hip 10 Button Fly 32
Sway Back 10 Invisible Button Fly 35
Full Derriere 10 Pockets 36
Flat Derriere 12 Patch Pocket 36
Low Crotch Location 12 Pocket with Bound (Double Welt)
Style Variations 14 Opening 37
Straight Leg and Elephant Pants 15 Side Seam Pocket 40
Flared Pants and Slims 16 Western Style Pocket 42
Shorts 17 Waist Finishes 44
Checking the Pattern Draft 18
Waistbands 44
Crotch Depth Measurement 18
Waist Facing 45
Matching Side Seams 18 Elastic Waist 45
Minimum Cuff Measurement 18 Waist Yoke 46
Upper Thigh Measurement 18 Hip-Hugger Pants 47
Minimum Knee Measurement 18 Belt Loops 47
Leg Finishes 48
2 Layout and cutting procedures 19 Hem of Pants Legs 48
Separating the Pattern Pieces 19 Cuffs 49
Estimating the Correct Amount of Fabric 19 Decorative Touches 50
Preparation of the Fabric 20 Children's Slacks 51
Pattern Layout 20 Maternity Slacks 51
Fabrics With a Nap or Direction 21
Prints 21 4 Pant fabrics 53
Plaids 21
Checks 21 Chart !-Fabrics Suitable for Slacks 54
Stripes 21 Chart 11-How to Handle Fabrics 55
Marking and Outlining the Pattern 23
Cutting the Fabric 23 Index 57
1

An introduction to pattern drafting The knowledge of a few terms wil l also

benefit the novice pattern designer. In the
Patterns are the basis of most sewn garments. instructions, the lines forming the pattern draft
The pattern draft outlines the required shapes may be termed horizontal , vertical, parallel,
and sizes of the sections of fabrics which, perpendicular, slanting or curved.
when seamed together, form the desired
garment. Since the fabric is flat, it must be
1 9 142
made to fit the body contours by the removal
of wedge-shaped sections called "darts,"
which are drawn right on the pattern draft. The
curved areas such as the stomach , hips, and
buttocks, all require shaping or darting if a
smooth fit is desired . 7
If you have not had experience with pattern ./
drafting before, you wi ll need to know a few
basics to make the drafting instructions easy
v\ 5

to follow. All patterns are constructed within a

pattern block, which is a rectangle outlining
the length and approximately half the width of
the garment. Usually, only half of the front and w X
half of the back pattern need to be drawn as
the left and right sides of the body are the
same and the pattern will be placed on fabric
Fig. 1
which is folded double. In the case of slacks,
this general rule wil l hold true except for cer-
tain figure faults which will be specified later in
the book.
90
As mentioned, the pattern draft is an outline 4 y z 3
or drawing of a specific shape, and as such, it
will require the use of special instruments
when being drafted . The following instru- On the rectangular pattern block 1-
ments are recommended: a yard-stick or 2-3-4 in Fig. 1, a pattern draft is drawn.
metre-stick with accurate markings for draw- Lines (1-2) and (Y- Z) are examples of
ing and measuring straight lines; a plastic horizontal lines, while (1- 4) and (X-Z) are
triangle or square which is used to draw 90 vertical. A vertical line is said to be perpen-
degree angles and to keep all the corners of dicular (at 90 degrees) to a horizontal line.
the pattern block square; and a French Curve Lines (W-Y) and (X-Z) are parallel. (X-5)
which is used as an aid in drawing smooth and and (5-14) are examples of slanting lines,
precise curved lines . while (8-W) and (7-8) are curved lines.
2
Measuring draft could fit on two pieces of paper the size
of this page, which can be taped together.
We recommend that you draft your ful l scale
All patterns are drawn to predetermined patterns on any good quality medium weight
measurements which must be taken with the paper about 36" (92 em) wide; for example,
utmost care. Knowing how to take measure- wrapping paper, table paper, or wall paper.
ments correctly and accurately cannot be Ordinary blank newspaper may also be used.
over-emphasized . As it is impossible to take It may be purchased from printers or paper
your own measurements, have someone take dealers either in rolls or sheets. If sheets are
them for you, being sure that they take them used, you will probably have to tape two
exactly as explained. Measurements should sheets together to make a section large
be taken while wearing correctly-fitting un- enough for your full scale draft.
dergarments. The person being measured Accuracy is the basis of successful pattern
should stand erect but in her natural manner. drafting . No pattern can fulfil l its purpose of a
Be sure that the tape measure is accurate. "perfect and flattering fit" unless the meas-
Some tapes become stretched after frequent urements are taken properly and accurately
use. Before starting to measure, compare the and the lines and outlines are drawn with care ,
markings on the tape to those on the ruler you neatness, and precision. With this in mind , the
are planning to use for drafting you r patterns. successful drafting of your own " perfect-fit"
Before drawing up your slack pattern in full pattern is assured.
scale, it is wise to practise drafting the pattern The measurements which are required for
in a smaller scale, especially if you are un- drafting the slack pattern and instructions on
familiar with pattern drafting. Thus the slack how they are to be taken follow.

Record of measurements

Waist measurement
Hip measurement
Thigh measurement
Knee Location
Slack Length
Knee measurement
Cuff measurement

Supplementary Measurements
Slack Length (to floor)
Inseam Length (to floor)
Subtract for crotch depth
measurement
Minimum Knee measurement
Minimum Cuff measurement
 3
Measurements

Waist measurement - Measure around the

waist as tightly or as loosely as the person may
prefer the slacks to fit at the waist (Fig. 2).

Hip Measurement - Measure around the ful-

lest part of the hips. The easiest way to deter-
mine the location of the fu llest part of the hips
is by placing the tape fairly high around the
hips, then wh ile holding the tape firm ly but not
too tightly, slide the tape down, slowly releas-
ing it until the largest part around is found . This
can be anywhere from 5" (13 em) to 12" (3 1
em) below the waistline -with some people
the thighs are the largest part.

Thigh Measurement- Measure around the

top of the leg just below the crotch. This
measurement is taken for checking the pat-
tern draft only.

Knee Location - Measure from the side of the

waistline down over the hip to the center of the
knee on the side.

Slack Length- Measure the finished side

length down over the hip from the waist.

Knee Measurement - Measure around the

center of the knee while the person is standing
up. Check for the ease required by measuring
around ~he knee while the person is sitting
down.

Cuff Measurement- Measure around the

Fig. 2 ankle, releasing the tape to the size of cuff
desired by the person .
4
Drafting the basic slack pattern Two pattern blocks will be required for each
slack pattern: one block for the front pattern
Pages 6 and 7 contain the drafting instruc- (Fig . 4), and the other for the back pattern (Fig .
tions for the basic slack pattern. To make 5).
these instructions easy to fol low, a few expla- Secondly, unless specified as " curved ," all
nations will be hel pful . First of all , you must use lines are considered to be straight. If the line is
both the drawing and the instructions together specified as a "curved line," study the shape
referring back and forth between the two, of the curve as drawn in Fig . 4, for example,
checking each instruction with what has been before copying the shape freehand on your
done on the drawi ng . This procedure is espe- own pattern. Then , match the freehand curve
cially important in locating the numbers on the to one of the edges on your french curve and
figure which have been referred to in the text. redraw to make the curve smooth . You may
It must be noted that the points on the figure have to draw a curve in two parts. Fi rst, match
are for the most part numbered in the order in up one section of the curve with one part of
which they are drawn. For example, the rec- your french curve and red raw. Then match the
tangle or pattern block is drawn first and label- instrument to the other section to smooth out
led 1-2-3-4 (Fig . 4). The crotch line is the remaining part of the freehand curve.
measured and drawn next and labelled line . Thirdly, the final step in drafting the basic
5-P. Then line 6-0, the knee location line is slack pattern involves constructing the waist
constructed on the pattern. The procedure darts. In the abbreviated instructions only the
continues in this manner with instructions for location and size of these darts are g iven.
locating the next points 7, 8 etc. When you reach this stage in drafting your
The instructions could begin as follows: slack pattern read Page 5 while referring to
" With ru ler and pencil draw a straight horizon- Fig. 3 .
tal line from point 1 to point 2 equal to 3/a of
your hip measurement. From point 2 draw a Seam Allowance
vertical line to 3 equal to the length of the
slacks. From point 3 draw a horizontal line to When you draft your own slack pattern you are
point 4 equal to line 1-2. Join point 4 to point working on the actual measurements which
1 to complete the rectangle. " do not include an allowance for seams. For
To conserve space the instructions given in information about seam allowances please
the preceding paragraph have been ab- refer to pages 23 and 24.
breviated to read : " Horizontal line 1-2 = 3/a
of hip. Vertical line 2-3 = Length of slacks.
Complete the rectangle: (3-4) = (1-2) and Darts
(4-1) = (2-3) ."
When the pattern instructions read "Mea- Front darts A and B (Fig. 3) are 314'' (2 em) wide
sure 2-6 = knee location" assume that since and 41/2" (11 .5 em) long. Dart B is separated
point 6 is on the 2-3 line (as illustrated in from dart A by 1" (2.6 em). Draw dart A first
Fig. 4), you must place your ruler along line using line A-11 as the centerline. Measure 3 /a"
2-3 and measure down from point 2 the (1 em) on either side of point A. Draw in dart
exact knee location measurement in order to lines from these points to a point on the center-
mark point 6. line 41/2" (11 .5 em) below A. Measure 1" (2.6
 5
em) towards point 14 from this dart. Then back seam and place a mark. Measure a
measure a further 314'' (2 em) for the second further 314'' (2 em) and place another mark for
dart. Point B marks the mid-point of the sec- dart E. Draw in the centerline for this dart at 90
ond dart. First, draw the center line from point degrees to line (9a- 14) 5" (13 em) long. Draw
Bat 90 degrees to line (9-14), and 41/2" (11.5 in dart lines from the two dart marks down to
em) long. Then draw in dart lines from the the end of the centerline. Locate the other
points 3 /a" ( 1 em) either side of B to the end of back dart (F) by measuring from the mid-point
the centerline. 1/2" (1.3 em) towards the side seam for the first
dart mark and a further 314'' (2 em) for the
second mark. Draw the centerline as for dart E
and join the dart lines. The measurements
given for the length of these darts are stan-
dard measurements for front and back waist
darts. But, if required , these darts may be
lengthened or shortened.
9 Men's Pants can be made from this basic
pattern, but, as they do not have darts in the
1 CM. 2CM.
front you must make this change in the pattern
draft: 9 to 14 on the front pattern is equal to 1 / 4
of the waist measurement, rather than the 1 / 4
of the waist plus 11/2" (3.8 em) as used on the
basic pattern draft for women.
For a knit or stretch fabric you must make
this change in the pattern draft: draft the pat-
tern u ~ ing the Hip Measurement less 2" (4
em). For example, if the Hip Measurement is
38" (96 em) , the pattern is drafted using 36"
(92 em). The knit or stretch fabric allows for
ease in fitting . This ease is allowed for in the
Fig. 3. drafting instructions for the basic pattern for
use with normal fabrics.
Fig. 4 and Fig. 5 are drawn to scale from the
measurements given at the top of Fig. 4. Sub-
stitute your measurements for those given and
you will have a pattern suitable for your own
slacks.
It is wise to make up a trial pattern first if you
Back darts E and F are located 1/2" (1 .3 em) are dubious about following the instructions.
on either side of mid-point of line (9a-14), Once you have convinced yourself how easy it
3/4'' (2 em) wide and 5" (13 em) long. First, find
is to draft the pattern using these abbreviated
the mid-point of 9a--14. Measure from this instructions, you will find that with a little prac-
mid-point 1/2" (1.3 em) towards the center tice you can make a pattern in 15-20 minutes.
6
The basic slack pattern MEASUREMENTS IN. CM
WAIST 30 76
Front HIP 40 104
LENGTH 36 92
KNEE LOCATION 22 56
KNEE MEAS. 15 38
CUFF MEAS. 18 46

DIRECTIONS

PATTERN Horizontal line 1-2 = 3 /a of hip

BLOCK Vertical line 2---3 = length of
slacks 9
Complete rectangle:
(3-4) = (1-2)
(4-1) = (2---3)
Make 2-5 = 1/ 4 of hip+ 1" (2.5
em)
Make 2---6 = knee location
Draw horizontal lines 5-P and
6--0 10

FRONT Measure 5-7= 1 / 4 of hip

Measure from point 7, 1 / 4 of
(5-7) and mark point 8.
Point 11 is mid-point of (5-8). FRONT
Draw vertical line through point
11 parallel to (2---3) intersecting
line (1-2) at A, knee location at
point 12, and line (3-4) at point
13.
Measure A-9 = 1/a of waist Q
W 12----X 6
Joint 7-9
(7-10) = (7 --8)
Join 8 to 10 with curved line as
shown.
Add 3" (8 em) to knee width.
Measure 1 / 4 of cuff width on
each side of 13 and mark Y and
Z.
Draw leg seams by joining
5-X-Z and 8-W-Y.
Make (9- 14)= 1/ 4 of waist
+ 11/2"(4 em) (for darts)
Join 5-14 with a slightly curved
line as shown. 4 y 13 z 3
Front Darts A and B are 314'' (2
em) wide and 41/2" (15 em) long.
Separate the two darts by 1" (2.5 Fig. 4
em).
 7
The basic slack pattern

Back
DIRECTIONS I
BACK Construct a second pattern
block, exactly the same as the
front, for the back pattern.
Measure 5-7 = 1 / 4 of hip
Measure 1-9 = 3 /4 of 5-7
2 14
9a is 1/2" (1.3 em) above 9
Joint 7 to 9a.
Measure 7-10 = 1 / 4 of 5-7
Point 8 is 314'' (2 em) below 8 on
line (1--4).
Join 8-10 with curved line as
shown.
Mark 11 same distance from 5
as on front.
Construct vertical line 11 -12
-13 parallel to line (2---3).
Make knee and cuff width mark-
ings as for front. Join W-Yand
X-Z.
BACK Draw back inseam from 8 to W
curving in 1/2" (1.3 em) from
straight guideline 8-W as
shown.
Measure (7- 9a)
(7-15) = 1 /3 of (7-9a)
a w+-----+12--~x s 15-16 = 1 / 4 of hip. Locate point
16 on extended 7-5 line.
Join 16 to X
9a-14 = 1 / 4 of waist+ 11 /2"
(3.8 em) (for darts).
Draw 9a-14 through 2. Join
14-16 as shown. Note: Draw-
ing the waistline (9-14)
through point 2 usually locates
point 14 accurately. However,
measure 14-16 (Back Pattern)
and 5-14 (Front Pattern) to
check that the side seams are
equal. If necessary move point
4 y 13 z 3 14 up or down. Use the required
amount and redraw 9-14, ig-
noring point 2.
Fig. 5 Back darts E and F are located
1/2" (1.3 em) either side of mid-
point of 9a-14, 314'' (2 em) wide
and 5" (13 em) long.
8
Adjustments for figure problems instructions on how to adjust the pattern for
each problem to correct the fit. Do not antici-
pate problems based on past experiences
Although th is slack pattern will eliminate the with commercial patterns or ready-made
need to alter for variations in figure propor- slacks. Fi rst .draft the pattern exactly as de-
tions, certain figure problems will require pat- scribed on the previous pages using your own
tern adjustments. On these following six measurements. Following the instructions in
pages, the left hand pages contai n descrip- the succeeding chapters for the correct pat-
tions of the figure problems and how they tern layout, seam allowance (page 24) and
distort the fit of the pants. On the right hand sewing procedures, cut the pattern out and
pages, opposite the problems, are detailed sew it up in some inexpensive fabric such as

1. Protruding stomach - Problem

a) The stomach may protrude enough to

cause a slight strain across the abdominal
area of the pants.
b) A larger stomach may cause the pants to
pull up over the protrusion, resulting in wrink-
les as shown in Fig. 6a. Fig. 6a

2 . High hip curve- Problem

Hips curve out sharply from the waist. If insuf-

ficient contour is allowed for these curves, the
pants will wrin kle as shown in Fig . ?a.

Fig. 7a
 9
muslin or an old sheet. Add a waistband and It must be remembered that to become pro-
press. Try the pants on, pinning the opening fessional in anything you do, it is necessary to
and waistband closed. Stand normally and work and practice by you rself. Similarly, with
have someone check the fit. Some wrinkles this pattern, you wi ll have to do some experi-
will naturally form when you move or do not menting on you r own to get a tru ly excellent fit .
stand straight, but these are not the type of So do not get discouraged on you r first try.
wrinkles you are to look for. Instead , check Subsequent adjustments and fittings will
that the pants hang straight and fit smoothly prove very rewarding . Once you have per-
with no unusual wrinkles or pullings. If you do fected your own basic slack pattern, you will
spot a problem area, look through the follow- be able to make any pant style with success,
ing information to determine the cause of the and the experience you will have gained in
problem and its solution. solving any fitting problem will be invaluable.

1. Protruding stomach - Solution

a) When the protrusion is not large, cu rving

the darts slightly inwards as shown wi ll solve
the problem.
b) To introduce sufficient room for the larger
stomach alter the pattern as follows: slash the
pattern from A to B. Spread the top section the
amount required for the p rotruding stomach.

Fig. 6b

a
2 . High hip curve - Solution

For high hip curves, measure the distance (a) k. (b) I

I
I
I
from the side waist down to the location of the I
I
largest part of the cu rve and then determine
the circumference (b) of the body at this loca-
tion. On the front pattern measure from point
14 down the distance (a) and draw a horizon-
tal line across the pattern at this point. The
horizontal line must equal 1 / 4 of the above
measurement (b), as measured from the cen-
terfront seam. Redraw the hip curves through
this width. Similarly alter the back pattern.
Darts may need to be shortened slightly.
When the hip measurement is over 44" (11 2 Fig. 7b
em), check that there is sufficient width in the
pattern in the area about 4" to 5" (1 0- 13 em) measurement around the fullest part of the
below the waist as described above. derriere. Draft the pattern on this measure-
This method may also be used for people ment and alter for high hip curves at the actual
with very high hip locations. Take the hip hip location.
10

3. One high hip - Problem

One hip is higher than the other. When enough

room is not allowed for the higher side, the
pants will wrinkle on this side and distort the fit.

Fig. Sa

4. Sway back - Problem

For the sway back problem, horizontal wrink-

les will appear below the waist. A sway back
hollows noticeably in the waist area causing
the back waistline t6 curve down in the middle
of the back.

Fig. 9a

5. Full derriere - Problem

The problem of a large derriere may cause

pullings in the crotch area of the slacks as
shown. These pullings are the result of insuffi-
cient length in the back crotch curve. How-
ever, this problem most often results from in-
accurate measuring, pattern drafting , or sew-
ing.

Fig. 10a
 11

3. One high hip - Solution

When this adjustment is necessary, the pant

sections will have to be cut singly. Two front
patterns and two back patterns will be re-
quired. One front and one back should be
altered for the high hip. The other two patterns
should be left as drafted. Lay out the patterns
carefully so that the left and right pant sections
will correspond to the normal and high sides
of your body.
To adjust the pattern for this problem, draw
a horizontal line across the front and back
patterns about 5" (13 em) below the waist.
Slash this line from the side seam to within Fig. 8b
1/ 16" (.1 em) of center seam. Spread the top

section as showt:l to introduce more room for The difference in the measurements wil l be
the one higher hip. To determine the amount the amount the pattern is to be spread. Darts
of spreading required measure from the side may need to be shortened on the higher side.
waist to the floor on both sides of the body. Redraw the center seam as shown in Fig. 8b.

14

4. Sway back- Solution

To eliminate the horizontp.l wrinkles caused by

the sway back, use line (9-14) for the back
waistline of the pants instead of line (9a-14).
(See Fig. 9b.)

Fig. 9b

5. Full derriere - Solution

To allow more room for the derriere, the back

crotch curve will have to be made longer by
extending it past the original crotch point 8
and redrawing the back inseam from the new 8
crotch point in to the original inseam line. (See
the dotted line in Fig . 1Ob). For pants that have
already been sewn together, let out the back
inseam to provide more room for the derriere.

Fig. 10b
12

6 . Flat derriere - Problem

Excessive looseness in the derriere area will

resu lt when the derriere is flat , as too much
room has been provided in the back crotch.

Fig. 11a

L J
I

7. Low crotch location - Problem

If you have a low crotch location which has not

been allowed for in 1/4 hip + 1" (2.5 em)
measurement used on pattern, the pants will
form a pleat at the front crotch.

Fig. 12a
 13

6. Flat derriere - Solution

To determine if you will need to make the back

crotch smaller, measure the inseam length
from crotch to floor (see page 18) and the side
length from the side waist to the floor. Subtract
the two measurements for the crotch depth
measurement. Use this measurement for the
distance from the waist to the crotch line on
your pattern. Then, tie a string around your
waist to mark the waist position and measure
the crotch curve from the center front waist
down and under the crotch and back up to the
center back waist. Compare this measure-
ment to the length of the seams from point 9 to
point 8 on the front pattern plus 9a to 8 on the
back pattern. If you find the pattern is more
than 2" --3" (5- 7.5 em) in excess of your
crotch curve measurement, you may want to
take 1/ 2" to 314'' (1 .3-2 em) off the back crotch
Fig. 11b as shown.

7. Low crotch location - Solution

The crotch seam can be resewn lower and the

seam allowances cut down if the pants have
already been made up. To correct this on the
pattern, take the inseam and the side seam
measurements to the floor. The difference be-
tween these two measurements is the d is-
tance from the waist to the crotch line on your
pattern.

Fig. 12b
14
Style variations

By altering the measurement of the pant legs

in the cuff, knee or thigh area, you can vary the
line of the pants greatly. Straight-legged,
flares, elephant or baggie pants, slims and
shorts are styles which can easily be made
with the basic slack pattern procedure. The
following pages will show you how to adjust
the basic pattern for the various styles shown
on this page.

Shorts
Elephant Pants

Slims
Flores
Fig. 13
 15
Straight leg and elephant pant styles plaids create their own look, while soft drapey
fabrics create the evening look. For Elephant
or Baggie Pants the basic slack pattern forms
The Straight-legged style is the style featured the outline, then the pant legs are drawn
in the basic slack pattern draft (Figs. 4 and 5) . straight down from the hips to the hem. Slight
The pant leg is equal in width from the knee, or shaping may be desired at the seat, but there
just above the knee, to the cuff. This style may is little or no shaping in the thigh or knee area.
give the leg an illusion of length if the cuff is This pant style may be cuffed or simply hem-
allowed to hang down over a shoe with a med. Draw the pant legs straight down from 8
higher heel. and 5 (Fig. 14) on the front pattern toY and Z at
Hot Pants may be made from this pattern. the hem. Measure from 12 to W on the front
Measure the length desired down from the pattern and measure this same distance from
side waist. Cut the pant pattern at this length. 12 and mark Won the back pattern . Draw the
Allow for the cuff as shown on page 17. back side seam straight down to Z . Curve the
Elephant or Baggie Pants are popular for back inseam in slightly, as shown, down to the
various times of the day. Dayti me and sport knee and then straight down to Y.

n , MEASUREMENTS
WAIST
HIP
IN. CM
24
36
61
92
KNEE LOCATION 21 53
LENGTH 34 86

a..) ,, 5

FRONT
BACK

w 12 X w 12 X

Fig. 14
y 13 z y 13 z
16
Flared pants and slims 13 and mark points a and b. Join a and b to the
knee width points for the leg seams as shown
Slims are characterized by a narrow cuff in solid lines on the diagram. There are many
width. First decide on the width of cuff de- possible variations of this pattern. The pant
sired. Refer to page 18 for measuring the legs of slims may be altered in length to create
minimum size of cuff you can use. Measure 1/4 peddle-pusher or deck pants styles, or slit 6"
of the desired cuff width on either side of point (15 em) or so up from the hem.

MEASUREMENTS IN. CM MEASUREMENTS IN. CM

WAIST 26 66 KNEE LOCATION 21Xz 54.5
HIP 38 96 KNEE MEAS. 14 36
LENGTH 35 89 CUFF MEAS. 13 ::)3
FLARED CUFF MEAS. 20 51

FRONT

w 12 X w 12 X

FLARES SLIMS
""' /

Fig. 15

y 0 13 b z y a 13 b z
 17
The Flare Pants or "bells" which are fitted to down from the side waist. To determine the
the knee, or just above the knee, flare out to a cuff measurement of the shorts, measure
very wide cuff. This style may give an illusion around you r thigh at the length of the shorts
of height depending on the length of the pant desired and add 2" -4" (5-1 0 em) for ease.
leg and the height of the shoe heel worn. Knee Take 1/ 4 of this measurement on both sides of
width is drawn as for the basic pattern. Draw pointE and mark C and D. (Fig. 16). Draw the
the leg seams from the knee location out to 1/ 4 leg seams as shown.
of the cuff measurement at points y and z as On this pattern the waistline is drawn as 1/ 4
measured on either side of point 13. The of the waist measurement + 314'' (2 em) for an
broken line on the diagram represents the elasticized waistline. (See page 45 for de-
pattern adjustment for flares . tails).
For the hem allowance draw a horizontal
(dotted) line on the pattern 2" (5 em) above
C-D. Fold the bottom of the pattern under on
Shorts line C-D. Place a sheet of tracing paper
under the pattern and trace up the pant seams
Shorts may also be made from the basic slack 2" (5 em) and across the dotted line to transfer
draft. Draw the length of the pattern block the markings for the hem allowance to the
equal to the length of the shorts as measured bottom of the pattern.

MEASUREMENTS IN. CM
WAIST 26 66
HIP 38 96
CUFF MEAS. 20 51

BACK
FRONT

,...I
a 11 5

r- - - - - - - - -- - ---
a I
c E D
Fig. 16
L I
18
Checking the pattern draft Upper thigh measurement

Once you have completed the pattern draft, Measure around the leg just below the crotch.
you may want to make a final check that your Add 3" (7.5 em) to this measurement for ease
pattern will fit you in the areas which have in non-stretch fab rics and 2" (5 em) for knit or
been drawn to standard procedures or meas- stretch fabrics. If a tighter fit is desired add
urements. only 1" (2.5 em). Measure the distance (a)
down from the side waist to the point where
Crotch depth measurement this thigh measurement was taken (Fig . 18).
On both patterns mark the distance (a) down
If you are exceptionally long or short from the from Point 14 and draw a horizontal line (S-T)
waist to the crotch, check to see that the across the pant leg of each pattern .
crotch line is in the correct position on your Compare the length of this line (front plus
pattern. Subtract the inseam length to the floor back patterns) with the upper thigh measure-
from the side length to the floor. The result is ment + 1" , 2", or 3" ( + 2.5, 5, or 7.5 em).
the crotch depth which is the distance (2-5) Remove any excess by taking in the leg
on the pattern. seams by equal amounts as shown in Fig. 18.
The inseam is accurately measured by at- If this measurement is larger than the pattern,
taching one end of the measuring tape to a add the difference to the pattern leg seams,
pencil. Take this measurement as follows: adding 1/4 of the extra requ ired to each seam
Place the pencil between the legs at the at location (a).
crotch and measure down the inside of the leg
to the floor.

Matching side seams

It is best to check that the side seams will

match when sewn togethe r. Measure the front
and back side seams on the pattern , from
Point 14 to the knee location. If unequal, alter
J
(a }
the position of Point 14 on the back pattern up

l
or down (Fig . 5), retaining the correct distance
from Point 9, until the side seams are equal in I
length. I
I

I
~--+--~,T
Minimum cuff measurement I

The minimum cuff measurement at the ankle is

determined by measuring around the foot as
shown in Fig. 17. Cuffs of slims can not be Fig. 18
made narrower than this measurement, un-
less the pant leg is slit about 4" (1 0 em) up
from the hem.

Minimum knee measurement

Fig. 17 Measure around the fully bent knee to get the

minimum width of the pattern at the knee loca-
tion.
.,
-

Separating the pattern pieces Once you have separated the pattern
pieces, you can easily determine the required
Before purchasing and cutting out your pant amount by taking the patter"n pieces to the
fabric you should separate the pattern from its fabric store with you ..With so many different
block. Cut along the heavy solid lines as indi- uses for slacks and so many fabrics on the
cated on the Basic Slack Pattern draft (refer to market today, choosing the right fab rics for
pages 6 and 7) . Cut out the darts on the pat- your slacks has become a big decision . For
tern pieces only to simplify transfer of sewing help with th is problem, refer to Chapter 4 on
lines on the fabric. If pockets, waist facing, Fabrics, page 53.
yoke or fly are to be used, draw them directly When you have selected the fabric, ask the
on the slack draft, and then trace onto sepa- salesgirl to unroll about two yards of the bolt.
rate sheets of paper to avoid cutting up the Lay out your pattern pieces on th is length
front and back patterns. For more information following the directions for Pattern Layout
on these style details see Chapter 3. given on page 20. Remember to allow for
Label all pattern pieces. Signify whether seam allowances and hem. Then measure the
each piece is to be placed on the fold, to be length required.
cut single, double or in fours. Mark all vertical If you have previously decided on a fabric
lines on the pattern "lengthwise grainline," or and the refore have the advantage of knowing
"straight of goods." its width, you can accurately determine the
Notches are important for any sewer. On the length required at home. Stretch two lengths
slack patterns notches are marked on both (about 2 yards) of string on the floor to repres-
sides of the knee location (points Wand X), at ent 1/2 the width of the fabric . Place your pat-
the intersection of the crotch li ne and the side tern pieces between the two strings leaving
seam-point 5 (front), point 16 (back), and at enough space between them for seam allow-
the intersection of the creaseline with the ances and hems. Remember to allow for
waistline. A notch may also be placed on the waistband, pockets, etc ., if used. After the
center front and back seams at point 10. pattern pieces are placed, the exact length of
the fabri c required can then be measured.
Special layout procedures are required for
Estimating the correct amount of fabric fab rics featu ring a directional design or nap,
checks, plaids and uneven stripes. Generally,
To save money, you will want to be able to buy checked, plaid and striped fabrics require the
the exact amount of fabric req ui red for you r addition of two extra design repeats (eg., 2
pattern . plaid blocks) to the length for matching .
20
Preparation of the fabric Avoid permanent press fabrics which are
off grain as they can not be straightened satis-
Depending on the nature of the fabric you factorily.
have chosen, certain precautionary measures The grain should be straightened before or
are necessary to prepare the fabric for cut- after pre-shrinking depending on the method
ting. To determine whether the fabric requires used. Washable fabrics may be pulled on
pre-shrinking refer to the chart on Page 53. grain after wetting; wool fabri cs right after
Before cutting, all washable knits and crimps being unrolled from the sheet. Fabrics which
should be washed and drier dried at wash and do not require preshrinking should be
wear setting as they may have been stretched straightened before proceeding to the next
when rolled in bolts. It is wise to then press step.
and apply a spray fabric finish to give body to After the fabric has been prepared, fold it in
the knit fabric for sewing. Cottons should be half lengthwise with the right sides together.
wet thoroughly, left to air dry on a flat surface , Pin the selvages every 12" (30 em) or so. For
and then pressed with steam setting. To pre- striped, checked or plaid fabrics, make sure
shrink wools, wet an old sheet thoroughly. that matching stripes or blocks are directly on
Place the wool on top of the sheet and , starting top of one another. Then pin the two layers at
at one end, fold the sheet and wool together regular intervals. Pin slippery fabrics such as
over and over to the other end. Leave the sheers or light weight crepes to tissue paper
fabric folded for several hours to allow the before placing the pattern and cutting , to pre-
wool to absorb the moisture from the sheet. vent the fabrics from slipping and stretching
Then remove the sheet and lay the wool out during handling.
flat to dry. Instead you may take the entire
length to the dry cleaners for a steam pres-
sing, or place a wet sheet on top of the wool
and steam press at home.
Checking the grain of the fabric is another Pattern layout
important step. The lengthwise and crosswise
yarns must be at 90 degrees to each other to Before you purchase the exact amount of fab-
ensure that the garment will hang properly ric you will require , you must know how to
when finished . place the pattern pieces correctly on the fab-
One method of checking the grain requires ric. Figs. 19, 20 and 21 on pages 22 and 23
you to even out the raw edges of the fabric show the proper placement of the front and
by pulling a crosswise yarn close to one end back patterns on different fabrics. All vertical
so that puckers form across the fabric mark- lines on the pattern pieces should be placed
ing this one yarn. Cut across the fabric on this along the lengthwise grain or the straight of
yarn. This end is now "trued " to the crosswise goods of the fabric. For accuracy, adjust the
grain. Repeat for other end. Check to see that pattern so that the distance from the pattern
the corners of the fabric are square by com- grainline to the selvage edges of the fabric is
paring with the corner of a rectangular table. the same along the length of the pattern piece.
If the corners do not match, the fabric is off If necessary, the crotch piece can be cut out
grain. To straighten the grain, either pull the separately as shown on Fig. 21 . Waistline fac-
opposite corners of the fabric until they are ings may be placed with the center front on
square, or use your iron to ease the lengthwise the fold to eliminate the bulk of an extra seam,
and crosswise yarns into correct alignment. only if a side opening is used. Remember to
Fold the fabric in half lengthwise. With raw allow for seam and hem allowances for each
edges even, pin the selvages together. If the pattern piece. Once the position of each piece
fabric permits, steam press from selvage is decided , pin (or, if recommended , tape) the
edges towards the fold to remove excess pattern to the fabric so that it does not shift nor
wrinkles and thus straighten the grain. slip out of place.
 21

Checks, plaids, stripes, and one way fab- ment of these shapes. For example, avoid
rics, all require extra attention with respect to placing a dominant shape on the widest part
pattern layout (see Figs . 19 and 20). Care of the hips or derriere. Keep in mind that the
must be taken in the placement of design left and right sides must be in balance.
sections, in the matching of the design at the Check the print to determine if it will require
seams, and in the placement of the pattern special directional layout.
when the fabric features a nap or one way
design. Each of the above types of fabric are
discussed separately below. Plaids

Some plaids will also require the directional

Fabrics with a nap or direction layout. Such fabrics are the uneven plaids
which do not have a symmetrical stri pe ar-
To determine whether a fabric has a nap, rub rangement in the lengthwise and crosswise
the hand up and down the surface of the mat- directions, as well as the plaid fabrics with
erial. If there is a difference in the feel , bet- napped surfaces. If these fabrics are to be cut
ween the two directions, the fabric has a nap. double, special fabric preparation is required.
Notice also the slight change in colour as the Pin one plaid section directly on top of the
nap is disturbed.- other t::>efore placing the pattern pieces. But
AII napped fabrics must be cut so that the the fabric can be cut single, if desired.
nap is running in the same direction through- All plaids should be matched at the pant
out the garment. Cut velvet and corduroy seams, and if possible the vertical plaid
pants with the nap running up from the cuffs to stripes should meet to form a chevron or vee
the waist. These fabrics will then have a richer, at shaped seams. To match plaids at seam-
deeper appearance. Secure the pattern lines, place corresponding notches on the
pieces with scotch tape or pin with silk pins to same plaid lines (see Fig. 20).
the wrong side of the fabric.
Wool broadcloth and other napped fabrics
Checks
must be cut with the nap running down from
waist to hem.
Generally, checks do not-have to be matched
Certain prints and plaids also must be cut if less than one half inch (1.3 em) in width.
with the design running in the same direction
Larger checks are treated as horizontal
on all pant sections. Usually you can tell if the
stripes with respect to pattern layout, and
directional treatment is necessary just by look-
matching at side seams and inseams.
ing at the print or plaid . To make sure, place
opposite ends of fabric beside each other in a
manner such that the design is running one Stripes
way on one end, and the opposite way on the
other end. Check to see if there is a difference Place the most obvious stripes where they will
in appearance between the two. If the design look best. For horizontal stripes, place the
is not completely symmetrical , directional dominant stripe at the cuff, unless this stri pe
treatment is required. will occur also on the widest part of the hip.
With vertical stripes, the dominant stripe can
be centered in the middle of each pant leg.
Prints For a straight pant leg, a wide dominant stripe
down the side seam may be desirable. These
If the design on the print is large, matching at pointers should be considered when placing
the seams may be necessary. If the print fea- pattern on plaid fabrics , too, as plaids often
tures a dominant shape, repeated at regular feature a dominant stripe in the vertical and/or
intervals, decide on the most effective place- horizontal direction.
22
If vertical stripes are evenly spaced in a Pattern layout for directional plaid or
repeating manner, they may be matched at checked fabrics
the shaped side seams to chevron both above
and below the knee. If vertical stripes are un-
even, they will probably not chevron on the I I
shaped side seams. rr- ,_ 1---l,_
Horizontal stripes should be matched at J 1
side seams and inseams. If stripes are un- J
evenly spaced you must place front and back I
patterns in the same direction on the fabric, so
that the stripe arrangement wil l be the same
both front and back. v --- ,.........._
...... ~

These d irections apply also to some fabrics ~~-- 'r ..

which have a striped texture such as wide
wale corduroy.
~-~
i\ f:
,_I-
~-~

..
1\ L-~
..
Pattern layout for directional striped
fabrics "~ t--'
t
1-- 1-
1-

~ ~F
~
=~ i: 1-
1-

1/
lr

1-.; ....
1\
II
I)
J ' .
II
1\
I I

I I
I I

" \ Fig. 20

In Figs. 19 and 20 the material features an

even vertical and/or horizontal stripe. The ver-
tical centerline and crotch line (and conse-
quently the knee location line and the hemline)
of the front pattern are placed on correspond -
ing areas of the stripes as are the vertical
centerl ine and crotch line (knee location line
and heml ine) of the back pattern. In this way,
I I II the horizontal stri pes wi ll match at the seams,
and the vertical stripes will meet to form a
Fig. 19 chevron or vee at the side seams.
 23
Fig. 21 shows how the front and back pat- Marking and outlining the pattern
terns may be placed when the fabric does not
feature a oneway design or nap. Vertical cen- Once the pattern pieces are pinned or sec-
terlines must be p laced parallel to the selvage ured in place (Fig. 22) on the fabric , measure
edges. Note that the back crotch may be cut and mark the seam allowances on the fabric
separately, as shown , when the fabric is not with soft tailor's chalk or sharpened chalk.
quite wide enough to cut full front and full back Mark 5/s" ( 1.5 em) seam allowance to all
patterns. seams unless otherwise specified. Widen the
center back allowance to 11/2" ( 4 em) at the
waist and the back inseam to 11/2" (4 em) at
the crotch. Th is addition allows for alteration in
Pattern layout for non directional fabrics case of weight gain. We also suggest adding
314'' (2.5 em) seam allowance on the side
seams as a precautionary measure. These
seam allowances may be trimmed down after
fitting , if unnecessary. Hem allowance is usu-
ally 2" (5 em).
Just before cutting out the pants. trace
around the pattern pieces marking the seam
lines and darts with chalk on the top layer of
the fabric. Mark notches and any other con-
struction lines you feel may help you to sew up
the pants.

Cutting the fabric

To cut the fabric use sharp straight sheers

(never pinking sheers) . Cut with long even
strokes on seam allowance lines. (Refer to
Chart II on Page 55 to check whether special
cutti ng techniques are required for the differ-
ent fabrics.)
Once the pants are cut out, remove the
pattern pieces from the pant sections. Re-
verse the two layers of each section so that the
wrong sides are together and pat along the
seam lines and darts to transfer chalk mark-
Fig. 21 ings to the second layer.
24
Seam allowances

FRONT

I. SGM .

Fig. 22
The construction of slacks can be as simple edge of a piece of thin cardboard along the
or as complex as you desire. A pair of slacks dart line and stitch along the edge of the
with no closing and an elastic waist can be cardboard. It is important to get a good point
sewn together in a matter of minutes. A tai- to your dart for a smooth fit in your finished
lored pair of pants with a fly front and welt garment. Next, sew the front and back in-
pockets will take considerably longer to make. seams and side seams of the left and right
But regardless of the complexity of the style pant sections together, stitching from the bot-
and the time involved in sewing your pants tom of the pants up to the crotch or waist,
together, certain procedures must be fol- matching the notches. Baste these seams be-
lowed if your pants are going to look and fit fore stitching to prevent one layer from slip-
well on you. The sewing techniques involved ping on the other. Stretch the back inseam
in constructing slacks are just as important as above the knee slightly to match the front in-
the drafting, cutting, and layout procedures seam from knee to crotch. The last seam to be
previously discussed. sewn in the pants is the crotch seam which is
The following section covers the proper stitched from the center front waist around to
procedures for sewing the basic slacks to- the center back waist. Baste this seam first
gether. The remaining sections in this chapter with the left leg turned inside out and placed
consist of detailed instructions on the drafting inside the right leg to keep the material out of
and sewing procedures for the different fea- the way while stitching . Stretch the back
tures which may be added to the slacks to crotch seam while stitching to give the pants a
vary the style and give the slacks a more pro- more comfortable shape. When you join the
fessional finish . These features include clos- left and right sections together with a continu-
ings, pockets , waist finishes , and leg finishes. ous crotch seam, the pants will have a
smoother appearance and fit. It is wise to sew
the crotch twice to reinforce this seam as it is
subject to a good deal of stress and strain
Sewing, pressing, fitting the basic slacks during normal wearing .
Press the right and left pant sections rig ht
After the pants have been cut out, the edges after the inseams and side seams have been
of the pant sections must be zig-zagged or sewn. Open the seam allowances and press
pinked if the material has a tendency to fray. them out flat , using a piece of board which is
Since seam lines and darts are indicated with placed inside the pant leg between the two
chalk markings right on the fabric , it is easy to layers to prevent pressing the bottom layer.
sew the pants together. First, sew in the waist Since different fabrics require different pres-
darts directing the stitching from the waist sing techniques, refer to Chart II on page 55 to
straight down to the point of the darts. To help check for special instructions on pressing
you sew the darts smoothly, place the straight your fabric.
26
When the seams and darts have been sewn
and pressed, the pants should be tried on to
check the fit. Sew the side seam all the way up
to the waist and press open. Then open the left
side seam from the waist down about 7" to 9"
(18 to 23 em) for the closing. You may find that
you will need to make minor adjustments to
perfect the fit of your pants. For example, the
curve of the side seams over the hip area may
need altering to better suit your shape. You
may want to take in the back inseam to fit the
pants tightly in the th igh area. Do not over-fit
your pants! If you do, you will find that there is
too little ease left for sitting, bending , and
walking with comfort. If you do find there is a
major fitting problem, refer back to page 8 for
the solution.
Once the crotch seam has been sewn and
the pants have been fitted , press the crease
line for the front and back pant legs by placing
the inseam and side seam of each pant leg
directly on top of one another and pressing
from the center of the leg out towards the
folded edge. S_ee Fig . 23.
Then pockets may be added. At this stage a Fig. 23
zipper or another type of c losing is sewn into
the side, center front, or center back. Finally
the waistband or facing and the pant hems are
sewn.

Lining

If possible, pants should be left unlined. How- Zipper closings

ever, a see-through material may require a
lining. In this case, preshrink the lining before The zipper closing is the most practical clos-
cutting. Then either sew the lining to the fabric ing for pants and is the most widely used type
sections and handle them as one material for of closing today. There are several ways of
the construction of the pants, or sew up the applying a zipper: fly front, lap method , center
lining separately and attach it to the pants at application, and invisible type. Since the in-
the waistline only. When the lining is separate, structions for the last two types are g iven right
the pressing of the pants is easier than when on the zipper packages, we will concentrate
the lining is sewn to the pant sections. Since it mainly on the first two methods of zip per clos-
is attached only at the waistline, the lining may ings mentioned.
be pulled inside out and pressed separately
from the pants. The method of lining used will Fly front zipper
depend on the style, the material , and the
effect you want the lining to give to the finished Insert the fly front zipper in the center front
garment. seam before the crotch seam is sewn. In most
 27
cases place the zipper on the straight part of The first step in constructing the fly front is to
the center front seam. If you need a longer trim the center front seam allowances down to
1 /2'' (1.3 em). With edges even, place the
opening, extend the zipper slightly into the
curve of the crotch as shown in the illustra- closed zipper face down on the left front sec-
tions. You may find that you have to shorten tion of the pants just below the waist seamline.
the zipper. Do this, after the zipper has been Baste it in place (Fig. 24-1 ). Aligning the
sewn into the waist seam , by cutting off the straight edge of the facing with the edges of
unnecessary amount from the top of the zip- the zipper tape and the pant section, place
per. Then , trim any excess that may extend the fly facing on top of the zipper. Baste. Stitch
more than 3 /a" ( 1 em) into the waistband or through all three thicknesses 114'' (.7 em) (Fig .
waist facing. 25-1). Mark the end of the zipper with a 114''
(.7 em) incision, as illustrated in Fig. 29-2.

RIGHT
SIDE

Fig. 24 Fig. 25

Two strips of the pant material are required Turn the facing and zipper over so that the
tor facings . The general shape of these fac- right sides face up (Fig. 26-1 ). Roll the pant
ings is shown in Fi g. 25, ending in a blunt point material towards the teeth of the zipper (Fig.
about 1/2" (1.3 em) below the end of the zipper. 26-2). Baste the rolled edge in place c lose to
The suggested width is 2" (5 em). the zipper teeth (Fig. 26-3).
28
the curved edges. Stitch (Fig. 26-5). Fold the
lining over to the wrong side, rolling the seam
slightly to the back and baste along the fold
(Fig. 27 -3). Press. Fold the straight edge of the
lining under so that it will hide all raw edges
and the zipper tape (Fig. 27-1). Baste it in
place.
(NOTE: (Fig. 27 shows seam 5 (Fig . 26) un-
sewn at the top to give you an inside view of
how the seam allowances have been pres-
RIGHT sed.)
SIDE

RIGHT
Fig. 26 SIDE

Cut a piece of lining on the bias the shape of

the fly facings but slightly larger and with the
extension as shown (Fig. 26-4). Baste the lin-
ing to the right side of the fly extension along

Fig. 28

WRONG Turn the work to the right side and, using the
SIDE zipper foot, topstitch close to the basted fold
of the material (Fig. 26-2) through all thicknes-
ses. This row of stitching will catch the folded
edge of the lining in place underneath 2 (Fig .
27). Press.
Zig zag the curved edge of the second fac-
ing piece at 1 (Fig. 28). With the right sides
together, sew this facing to the right front of
the slacks 3 / a" ( 1 em) in from the center front
edge (Fig . 28-2). Fold the facing to the inside,
rolling the seam under slightly so it is hidden.
Press. Baste along the fold at 1 (Fig . 29).
Close the zipper.
Place the right front overlapping the left
front, (with the waist seam matching at the top)
Fig. 27 so that the stitching line (Fig. 31-1) on the left
section is hidden. Baste together at 2 (Fig.
31). Press.
 29
Keeping the material as fl at as possible,
baste the right zipper tape to the right fac ing
only. Stitch once close to the edge of the zip-
per tape and again closer to the zipper teeth
(Fig. 30-1 and 2).
With the right side up , chalk a line an even
distance from the fi nished opening (about
1114''- 11/2") (3 .2-3 .8 em) curving in to a point
just below the end of the zipper (Fig . 31-3).
WRONG
Baste along this line through the slacks and
SIDE
the facing making sure that the facing lies
smoothly and flat and does not shift. Remove
the basting which holds the right and left
slacks together down the center front.

Fig. 30
RIGHT
SIDE
I
I sewing. Sew the seam line twice for rein-
forcement.
I Reinforce the opening at the bottom of the
zipper by stitching back and forth several
I times (Fig. 31-5) through all th icknesses.
Open out the seam allowance of the crotch
\ 2 seam and sew the extension of the lining to the
'\ edges of the seam allowances for additional
reinforcement as shown in Fig . 30-3.

Fig. 29 I
I
I
I
I
I
1+-1
I
Undo the zipper and stitch on the chalk line I
down to the point where the chalk line starts to
curve (Fig. 31-4). Stop stitching with the I
I RIGHT
I 1 SIDE
machine needle down. Do up the zipper. Fold I I
I I
the left facing back out of the way of the stitch- 3-41
ing . Stitch around the curve to the bottom of I
I
the opening .
Since the crotch seam is on the bias and 4~
\
needs a certain amount of give, sew from the \
\
bottom of the zipper on the crotch seam for 2"
' ' ,.. _.
or 3" (5-7.5 em) by hand using a back-stitch. Fig. 31 /'...
Sew the back part of the crotch seam by 5
machine stretching the fabric slightly while
30
Side zipper hide the stitching line (Fig. 33-2) on the back
section. Baste the zipper to the front section
A zipper may be placed in the left side seam through the seam allowance and slacks. With
using the lap method of application. The zip- the right side up , sew through the front section
per opening should be from 7" to 9" (18-23 and the zipper tape close to the zipper teeth
em) in length depending on your taste, and on (Figs. 32-5 and 33-5). This stitching line
your size and shape. The greater the differ- should be parallel to the folded side edge.
ence between the waist and the hip meas- Stop the stitching at the end of the zipper. Turn
urements, the larger the opening required. the work and stitch the zipper tape to the
First, locate the point on the side seam facing only (Fi g. 32-6). Remove the basting
where the zipper will end. Sew the side seam holding the front and back sections together.
from the hem up to this point. Place the zipper
face down , centered on the side seam line of
the left back slacks (right side facing up) .
Baste it in place. Stitch at 1 (Fig . 32). Turn the
zipper over so that its right side faces up and
roll the edge of the pant fabric almost to the
edge of the zipper teeth as seen in Fig . 33.
.,-----,-1
I
Baste in place. From the right side stitch along I
I
I
the fold using the zipper foot (Fig. 32-2 and I
I
I
Fig. 33-2). I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
5--:- 1
I
I
I
I
I
I

=r
9

Fig. 33

Cut a strip of the pant fabric for a facing (Fig.

33-1 0) slightly longer than the zipper and no
less than 11/4" (3.2 em) wide. If possible, cut
one edge of the strip from the selvage. Zig zag
Fig. 32 the raw edges of the strip (Fig . 32-7). Then, zig
zag the facing strip to the back side seam
allowance (Fig. 32-8) . Reinforce the end of the
opening from the right side by sewing back
Fold the side seam allowance of the front of and forth several times through all thicknes-
the slacks under along the seam line and ses just below the end of the zipper (Fi gs. 32-9
press (Fig . 32-3). Baste the front and the back and 33-9). The bottom facing must be lying flat
together (Fig. 33-4), lapping front over back to so that it is caught in this stitching , too.
 31
Additional types of closing Then, stitch across one end of the strip, catch-
ing the string in the stitching (Fig . 34-2) . To
Although the zipper is one of the most func- turn the strip right side out, cut off the corner of
tional types of closings, it is certainly not the the seam allowances (Fig . 34-3) . Hold the free
only type which can be considered. Buttons end of the string (Fig. 35- 1) in one hand and
and buttonholes, loops and buttons, and even draw the fabric in the opposite direction over
lacing may be used for closings to add variety the sewn end of the string (Fig . 35-2). When
and decoration to the pants. The last two the strip is turned , cut the string off where it
methods requi re lengths of cord which are has been sewn to the strip.
often made of the pant fabric . This cord can The cord may be made without the use of
be made in two ways. Both methods require the string. With the stri p folded in half
you to cut bias strips of the pant fabric about lengthwise, stitch down the length of the strip
1" to 1 1/2" (2 .5- 3.8 em) wide depending on at 1 / 3 of the width from the folded edge. Leave
the bulk of the fabric and the desired finished seam allowances at 2 / 3 of the folded width to
width. You will have to experiment a bit to find give the cord shape. To turn the strip to form
the width your fabric requires. The total length the cord, hook a hairpin or a thin strip of wire
of the bias strips is the length of cord required. through one end of the fabric. Feed the hairpin
Fold the strip in .half lengthwise. Measure through. the inside of the strip between the
from the fold approximately 1 3 of the width of stitching line and the fold , constantly drawing
the folded strip and mark off this distance at the wrinkles away from the pin until the strip
intervals along the length of the strip. These has been completely turned to form the cord .
markings indicate the stitching line. Place a When the cord is to be made from stretch
piece of strong, thin string down the center of fabric, cut the strip on the lengthwise grain.
the strip between the two layers so that the Before turning the strip, trim the seam allow-
ends of the string extend beyond the length of ance down to half the width of the folded strip.
the strip. With a zipper foot , stitch through There wi ll then be enough stretch in the
both layers of the strip on the 1/3 stitching line, crosswise direction to give the cord flexibility
but do not stitch through the string (Fig. 34-1 ). so that it may be used for loops or lacing.

t=--------------------_1---~
1'
2
I > > > I >

Fig. 34

' 2
l
l
Fig. 35
) I I I z 7 l 7 l
t
1
., )
32
Loops and buttons tinuous. The length of the paper should equal
the length of the opening . Draw one vertical
line 5 /a" (1.5 em) from the straight edge of the
For a series of evenly spaced loops, you will paper for the seamline. Draw a second verti-
want to be sure that the loops are spaced cal line the width of the loop from the first
uniformly and are of equal size. There are two vertical line. Draw equally spaced horizontal
ways of doing this accurately. First, decide on lines to indicate the desired width for each
the size of button since the size of the loop loop. Allow for the width of the cord. One
depends entirely on the size of the button. If length of the cord may be cut long enough to
the loops are spaced apart, cut each loop do several loops. Remember to allow for the
singly. Cut the length of each loop from the sections of the loop which wil l extend into the
cord to be used as follows: Measure twice the seam allowance.
diameter of the button plus 1/2" (1.3 em); or, Secure the loops in place by taping or bast-
experiment with the cord until you find the ing to the paper before stitching along the
correct length for the size of loop your buttons seam line to the edge of the closing. After the
require. Then add 1/2" (1.3 em) to this loops have been stitched in place, tear the
length - 114'' (. 7 em) at each end of the loop paper along the stitching line and remove.
is to extend into the seam allowance of the Apply the facing to hide the ends of the loops
closing edge. Cut one length of cord as de- and to protect the raw edge of the closing.
termined above for each loop . Then measure
along the closing seam line, where the loops
are to be placed, and mark off with chalk the
desired position of both sides of each loop. Lacing
Tape or baste both ends of the cords in place
to form the loops, as dictated by the chalk For a laced closing, the eyelets are easily
markings. Separately spaced loops are illus- applied with an awl and grommets. Attach
trated on page 50. strips of firm interfacing to the facings on each
side of the closing for reinforcement before
applying the grommets. After the eyelets have
been made, sew an_additional strip of the pant
fabric to the facing on one side of the closing

0 and extending across the opening to the edge

of the other facing. This step is desirable since
a laced opening has a tendency to gape open
0 with even a slight amount of movement or
strain. Then lace a length of cord through the

0 eyelets to hold the edges of the closing to-

gether. The laced closing is illustrated in Fig .
78, page 50.

0
0 Button fly

The button fly is constructed in much the same

0 way as the zipper fly closing. Two strips of

pant fabric are required for facings . The
shape of these facings is shown in Fig. 37,
Fig. 36 ending in a blunt point about 1/2" (1.3 em)
below the end of the opening. The suggested
width is 2" (5 em). A bias strip of lining the
You can rule a sheet of paper as a pattern shape of the fly facings but slightly wider and
for the position of the loops (Fig. 36). This with the extension shown in Fig. 38 is also
ruling is especially useful if the loops are con- required .
 33
Baste one strip of facing along the center
front seam of the left pant section. Stitch 5 /a"
(1.5 em) from the edge (Fig . 37-1) . Press the
seam flat , opening out the seam allowances
RIGHT as seen in Fig . 39-1 . The facing now forms an
SIDE
extension to the center front seam (Fig. 38-1) .
Face this extension with the bias strip of lining
by stitching it to the right side of the extension
along the curved edge (Fig. 38-2).

Fig. 37
3

WRONG
First, measure down from the waistline SIDE
seam of the pants, the desired length of the
opening and mark with a 1/2'' (1.3 em) incision
which can be seen in Fig. 41-2.

Fig. 39

Bring the lining around to the back of the

work, rolling the seam (Fig. 38-2) slightly
under so that it is invisible from the front and
baste in place along the fold (Fig. 39-2). Fold
the straight edge of the lining under (Fig . 39-3)
so that it hides the seam allowance (Fig. 39-1)
which can be trimmed if req uired. Baste in
place. Turn the work to the right side and stitch
1/a" (.3 em) from the seam (Fig. 38-3). This row

of stitching should catch the folded edge of

the lining in place underneath (Fig . 39-4).
Press.
Zig zag the curved edge of the second fac-
ing strip (Fig. 40-1 ). With right sides together,
sew this facing to right front slacks 1/2"(1.3 em)
Fig. 38 from the center front edge (Fig . 40-2).
34
Fold the facing to the inside rolling the seam
under slightly so that it is hidden. Press . Baste
along the fold . Stitch the facing in place with a
RIGHT
stitch ing line (Fig. 41-3).
SIDE

G RIGHT
SIDE

G
Fig. 40
81 I
I
I
I
~
'I
'/

I
I
I IIIIIIIE Fig. 42
I
I
I
I
I RIGHT
II SIDE
I - The position of the buttonholes wil l depend
.3---1 on the size of the buttons. The buttonholes
I 111111111
I should be at least half the diameter of the
I button plus 1/4" (.7 em) from the edge (Fig .
I
I 41-1 ). The width of the buttonhole should be
\ lilliE equal to the diameter of the button plus the
\
\
\
thickness of the button, approximately 1/a" (.3
\ em) . The distance between buttonholes is up
' ' ...... __
\.
to the individual. On the diagram they are
spaced twice the diameter of the button apart.

Fig. 41
 35
When the fly is buttoned , the edge of the but-
tonhole side should hide the row of stitching
on the button side. The measurement 1 (Fig .
41 ) should be equal to, or slightly more than,
the measurement 1 (Fig. 42).

Invisible button fly

For the invisible button closing , construct a

separate section of two strips of fac ing as in
Fig. 43. With the right sides together, stitch the
two layers of facing together along the center
front edge. Reverse the layers so that the right
sides face out, and fold along the center front
stitching line. Edgestitch (Fig. 43-1 ). Zig zag
the curved edges together (Fig. 43-2). Place
the buttonholes as described above. Fig. 43
Face the right front of the pants with lining
as in Fig . 40. Fold the facing to the back and
baste along the fold . Baste the buttonhole
section to the pants so that it is invisible from
the front as shown on Fig. 44.
Stitch to the pants along the curved edge
(Fig. 44- 1). Tack along the center front at in-
tervals (Fig . 44-2) so that a finger may be
slipped between the buttonhole section and
111111111
the front of the pants to do up the buttons.
Since the crotch seam is on the bias and
needs a certain amount of give, sew from the
bottom of the opening .on the crotch seam for WRONG
2" or 3" (5 -7.5 em) by hand , using a back- SIDE
stitch. Sew the back part of the crotch seam
by machine, stretching the fabric slightly while
sewing. Sew the seam line twice for rein-
forcement.
Open out the seam allowance of the crotch
seam and sew the extension of the lining to the
edges of the seam allowances as shown on
page 29 (Fig. 30-3) for additional reinforce-
ment.

Fig. 44
36
Pockets
WRONG
SIDE
Four common pocket styles found on pants
are: Patch Pocket, Pocket with Bound Open-
ing, Side Seam Pocket, and Western Style
Pocket.

Patch pocket

The patch pocket is easy to sew. You can

make it in a variety of shapes and sizes. First
decide on the shape and size you desire. It
may be helpful to draw the pocket right on
your slack pattern so you will get an idea of the Fig. 46
fin ished effect. The pocket pieces required for
the two patch pockets A and B (Fig . 49) are
shown with seam allowances in Figs. 45 to 4 7.
the pocket opening (4). Baste in place. Edge
stitch the folded hem edge to the lining (5).
On the pocket with the diagonal opening,
baste a length of non-bias tape to the edge of
the lining, and fold line (4) of the pocket. Bring ,
2 the right side of the pocket to the lining , folding
along the dotted fold line (4) across the pocket
opening. If the lining material will not shrink
with steam pressing, baste the pocket to the
lining in such a way that the edge of the lining
.------.-, extends about 1/a" (.3 em) beyond the side
and bottom edges of the pocket section. The
material of the pocket will be slack with bub-
bles but when turned right side out, these
bubbles will disappear and the seam line will
t
fall to the inside of the pocket so it is hidden
from the right side (8). (See Fig. 48).

I I

Fig. 45 I
I
I
I
I
I
I I
I
/-6 I
I
I
I
Cut the lower piece (1) from pant fabric and 6 ;
I
I
I \\ 1 I
the upper section (2) from lining or preferably ',. . ______ L________ ,,,
I

'...... I
I
.~'
cotton which will shrink slightly when steam
pressed. The outside solid lines represent the
cutting lines, the inside solid lines represent Fig. 47
the stitching lines. Add about 11/2" (3.8 em) to
the opening edge of the pocket for hem allow-
ance or facing. Cut the pocket lining the exact If the lining can be shrunk, baste the pocket
size of the pocket section without the hem to the lining right along the seam line. Stitch
allowance. Turn the seam allowance of the along the seam line (6) leaving approximately
hem edge under and press as shown (3). 2" (5 em) unsewn (7). Turn the pocket through
Place the straight edge of the lining (2) on the opening (7). If cotton fabric has been used
the dotted fold line which will be the edge of for the pocket lining, roll the seam to the back
 37
of the pocket (8) , and baste in place. With a Stitch across the opening edge of the poc-
steam iron shrink out the excess in the lining. ket (9) 1 /a" - 114'' (.3-. 7 em) from the edge. If
Press the pocket. Hand stitch the unsewn por- desired a second row of stitching may be
tion of the seam (7) together with an invisible sewn on the stitching line (5) through all poc-
stitch. ket thicknesses to keep the opening firm and
neat (1 0).
The final step involves the application of the
9 pocket to the pants. Baste the pocket in the
I desired position on the pant section. Stitch
1/a" to 114'' (.3-. 7 em) in from one side of the

opening around the pocket edge to the other

side of the opening ( 11 ). Reinforce the edges
8 of the opening as shown (12). To add strength
I to this reinforcement, place small squares of
cotton inside the pants under the pocket cor-
Fig. 48 ners before stitching (12).

Fig. 49

Pocket with bound (double welt) opening First decide on the width of the pocket open-
ing. Make it at least 5" (13 em) so that your
The pocket with bound opening is often found hand can pass through without putting undue
on tailored pants to give the pocket opening a strain on the fabric. Mark on your pants the
neat clean finish. This type of pocket is difficult exact position and length of the opening de-
to make. It may be wise to practise on a sam- sired with a row of small basting stitches in
ple. contrasting th read. (Mark each end of th is line
38
with a row of basting). Decide on the depth of
the pocket desired. Measure from 1/2" (1 .3
em) above the waistline vertically down to the
opening. Add this measurement to the de-
sired depth plus seam allowance, and cut two
lining pieces using this distance for their
length. The width used should be 2" (5 em)
wider than the opening. Place one lining piece ' I
on the wrong side of the pants centered over
the proposed opening and extending 1/2" (1.3
em) above the waistline (Fig. 50-1). Baste in RIGHT
place. The 1/2" (1.3 em) exten sion above the SID E
waistline of the pants permits you to secure
the pocket at the waistline between the waist-
band and its facing .
I
., Fig. 511
--- - -- ---- -- --- - --

3 the seam allowance of the strip back (Fig.

~-~-------------- ~ 51-1). With the right side facing up , cut
r-~-----
3
---------~
7'
through the lining and the pants between
2 stitching lines and out to the corners as indi-
cated (Fig. 51 -2).
To form the piping, press the button strip
and the seam allowance upward along the
RIGHT seam line . Fold this strip over its seam allow-
SIDE ance and tuck down through the opening to
the inside. Baste through all 3 thicknesses of
2~! the strip fabric to hold the bottom piping in
place. Follow the same procedure for the top
I strip (Fig. 52-1). Edges which have been cut
~i~~~- - ---- -----' will automatically be folded back (Fig. 52-2) .

- I--

Cut two strips of the pant fabric for the pip- I

2
ing 11/2" (3.8 em) longer than the opening and I
about 21/2" to 3" (6.3-7. 5 em) wide. If possi- r ~"->-
......... +
~ "1\.
ble cut one side from the selvage. With right "
. ----- - --- -------- - ---- -~

---- ----- -'- 3 --

sides together, place one strip above the
opening with its bottom edge resting along the - -
\4
opening line. Place the other strip below the
opening with its top edge along this line. WRONG
Center the strips so that 3/4'' (2 em) extends SIDE
beyond each end of the opening. Baste in
place. Mark each end of the opening on the
strips (Fig. 50-2). Stitch th rough the strip, the
pant, and the lining fabrics about 114'' to 3 /a" (. 7
to 1 em) from the opening line, starting and
stopping exactly at each end of the opening Fig. 52
(Fig. 50-3) . Backstitch at each end of the row
to reinforce the stitching at these points. Press
 39
With the right side up, stitch exactly in the
bottom seam line of the welt to secure the
bottom strip in place (Fig . 52-3). Do not sew on
the top welt seam.
Then, fold back the slack and lining fabrics
across the end of the opening to reveal the
triangular point and the ends of the folded
strips (Fig. 53-1). Adjust the ends so th at they
lie smoothly in neat folds and stitch the
triangle to the folds right across the end of the
opening from the end of the top row of stitch-
ing to the end of the bottom row of stitching
(Fig. 53-2) . Reinforce several times. Repeat
for the other end of the opening . WRONG
SIDE

I - -
I
[
1+

3
/ /./././
/// /
././
///
$
2
Baste the edges of the two lining pieces
together. Stitch on the seam 1ine (Fig. 54-3)
- and then zig zag the edges together (Fig.
RIGHT
SIDE
54-4).
With the right side up, fold back the pant
fabric along the top edge of the welt. Baste
through the pocket layers just above the welt
seam. Fold back the pant material at one end
of the opening. Reinforce this end by stitching
back and forth through all remaining thick-
nesses (Fig. 54-5) .
.__
Fig. 53

Baste the edges of the welt opening to-

gether (Fig. 53-3). Press. Turn so that the
wrong side faces up. If the lower edge of the I I
bottom strip is not a selvage edge, zig zag the ~!~-1------------Iii~
edge or press the raw edge under. Baste this
edge to the lining only, so that the pocket lies
smooth and flat. Stitch in place close to the
edge of the strip (Fi g. 52-4 ). RIGHT
Cut another strip of pant fabric 21/2" to 3" SIDE
(6.3 to 7.5 em) long and as wide as the width of
the opening plus 2" (5 em). Place this strip on
the second lining piece right across the open-
ing so that, when the pocket is opened, the
pant fabric is exposed (Fig. 54-1) . If the lower
edge of the strip is not a selvage, finish it by
zig zagging or pressing under. Stitch the strip
Fig. 55
in place to the lining (Fig. 54-2).
40
Then fold back the slack fabric across the pocket pattern first on the front pant pattern
top and stitch through all remaining layers as according to the following guide lines. The
close to the seam as possible (Fig. 54-6). folded edge of the pocket( _.- line) hangs
Then reinforce the other end . straight down in the finished garment and
should not lie closer to the center front of the
pants than 2"-3" (5-7.5 em) . This is espe-
cially important when a fly front opening is
used. The pocket should extend 1/2" (1.3 em)
above the waist of the pants. The suggested
size is about 10" (25 em) long , as measured
from 1/2" ( 1.3 em) above the waist, with a 5" ( 13
em) opening starting 2" (5 em) below the side
waist. The pocket follows the hip curve down
to a point 1" (2.5 em) below the end of the
opening , then straight in to the side seam line
of the pants (Fig. 57-1). From this point it
curves down and across the bottom to the fold
li~e as shown in Figs. 57 and 58.

---1
I
I i---
1
I
I I I
I
I I
I I I

Fig. 56 I
I
I 2~I
I I
I
I
I I
I
I I
I
I
I I
I
Reinforce the ends of the opening from the I I I

-----: I L----
right side by stitching through all thicknesses I
I
(Fig. 55-1 ), back-stitching to reinforce sec- I
urely. This stitching should be the exact width /
of the opening only. Fig. 56 shows the ap- (
pearance of the finished pocket opening.
If a flap is desired with this pocket, it may be
inserted between the two lining sections be- RIGHT
fore row 6 (Fig . 54) is sewn. SIDE
The flap section must be made to fit the
opening exactly. The fac ing for the flap must
be made smaller than the flap so that the seam
will not show around the flap edge (see the Fig. 57
patch pocket lining instructions, page 36) .

Face both edges of the opening with pant

Side seam pocket fabric. Draw the pattern for the facings on
the pocket pattern. One side of the facing
Draw the pattern for this type of pocket on the fol lows the same hip curve as the pocket
pant pattern to get the general size and and the pants, beginning 1" (2.5 em) above
shape. Cut the pocket in one piece and fold it the opening and ending 1" (2.5 em) below.
in half down the center fold line (marked The width of the facing should be about 2" (5
-- on Figs. 57 and 58). Since the sides of em) at the top increasing to about 3" (7.5 em)
the pocket are symmetrical , draw only half the at the bottom. Draw the inside edge straight. If
 41
possible, cut this edge from the selvage so
that it won 't need finishing. To cut the facings,
fold the fabric double with the right sides to-
gether so that you will have a right and left
facing . Cut the pocket from firm cotton or lin-
ing material with the center line (- . - .)
placed along the fold of the fabric.
Sew the facings to the pocket as shown in
Figs. 57 and 58. Press all raw edges of the
facing under, 114'' (. 7 em), except the side
seam edge. Stitch this edge to the pocket
(Figs. 57-2 and 58-2) .

---~--
--- I
I
12 Fig. 59
I 8
I
7 I center fold (Fig. 59-9). Zig zag this area. Sec-
I ure the bottom pocket layer to the side seam
\ of the pants with zig zag stitch just below the
\
pocket opening (Figs. 58-7 and 59-1 0). Baste
the pocket to the pants across the top.
Pin the front and back side seams together
and stitch (Fig. 60-11 ). Sew this seam with
great care as the stitching must catch the
bottom and top corners, but not the folded
edge of the opening . Therefore, when stitch-
ing the side seam across the opening, pull the
top layer of the pocket slightly away from the
Fig. 58 needle.

With the right sides together, match the side

seam of the pocket to the pants (with the top of
the pocket 1/2" ( 1.3 em) above the waist of the
pants). Baste in place. Clip the seam allow-
ances to the seam line at the top and the
bottom of the opening (Fig. 57-3) .
Stitch between clips along the side seam
line (Fig. 57-4) . Fold the pocket around to the
wrong side of the pants along the seam line
(Fig . 57-4) of the pocket opening and press
(Fig . 58-5) . Topstitch 114'' (.7 em) from the fold
(Fig . 58-6). Zig Zag the edges of the pocket
and the pants together above and below the WRONG
opening (Fig . 58-7). Zig zag the opposite fac- SIDE
ing and the pocket edges together (Fig. 58-8).
Fold the pocket in half along the center fold
line (_._ .). Pin and stitch around the edge of
the pocket from the bottom of the facing to the Fig. 60
42
Press the side seam open (Fig. 61- 12). Western Style Pocket

The procedure involved in making this style of

pocket is much the same as that used lor the
side seam pocket. The general shape of the
pocket is the same except that the opening is
curved and diagonal rather than straight and
vertical. Draw the desired shape of the open-
ing on the slack pattern . As a guideline, start
the opening 3" to 4" (7 .5-10 em) over from
the side waist and curve down to a point about
5" ( 12.5 em) below the waist on the side seam.
Fig. 63 shows the shape of the pocket open-
ing . Cut the main front section of the pants
along the curved opening line (1 ). Cut the side
waist section of the pants separately and ex-
WRONG tend it about 2 1/2" (6.3 em) into the pocket. Cut
SIDE oo the dotted line (2) . Cut the pocket to extend
1/2" (1.3 em) above the waistline and 8" to 9"
12
(20-22.5 em) below. Cut one side of the
pocket on the curved opening line. The other
side follows the hip cu rve of the side seam.
Sew the side waist section of the pants to the
latter side of the pocket so that , when the
Fig. 61 pocket is finished , this waist section of the
pants will show above the curved opening. In
addition to the pocket and pant sections, a
facing of the pant fabric (for the curved open-
ing edge) is required . The facing should not
With the right side up, stitch back and forth interfere with the center fold line of the pocket.
across the side seam at the bottom and top of Therefore draw the facing about 2 1/2" (6.3 em)
the opening (Fig. 62-13) for reinforcement. wide. Zig zag the longest edge of the facing
(Fig. 64-1 ).

../' 13 I
I
I
I I
I
I
I RIGHT
I / SIDE
I
I 2_,...

--
I /
I
., /
,,3
-!.

RIGHT
SIDE

Fig. 62 Fig. 63
 43
5 2

' ........
-- - ---
Fig. 66
Fig. 64

Place the pocket on the wrong side of the Stitch the facing in place to the pocket (Fig .
pants, matching the curved opening lines with 65-2). Zig zag the curved edge of the side
a 1/2" (1.3 em) margin of pocket showing waist section of the pants (Fig. 65-3) . With the
above the wc;~istline of the pants (Fig. 64-2). wrong side of the pants facing you, place the
With the right sides together, place the curved side front section, right side up, on the pocket
1
facing on the pant opening (Fig . 64-3). Pin it in /2'' (1.3 em) below the top edge, matching the
place. To prevent the opening from stretch- side edges. Zig zag together (Fig. 65-4). Sew
ing, place a strip of non-bias tape along the the curved edge0f the side pant section to the
cu rved seam line (Fig. 64-4). Baste through pocket (Fig. 65-5).
the four thicknesses and stitch along the seam Fold the pocket sectipn on the center fold
line (Fig. 64-5). Press the facing up towards line (Fig. 66-1 ). Stitch and zig zag the edges of
the seam allowance and edgestitch. Turn the the pocket together from the bottom of the
facing to the inside and press so that seam (5) opening down and around to the fold (Fig .
lies slightly to the inside. Topstitch 1/4'' (. 7 em) 66-2). Baste the pocket to the waistline (Fig.
from the edge of the opening (Fig. 65-1 ). 66-3) and to the side seam (Fig. 66-4). From

WRONG
RIGHT
SIDE
SIDE
1

\
' ..... I
-.-.---_I

Fig. 65 Fig. 67
44
the right side, stitch across the topstitch ing side or center front closing is used. For the
lines to secure the opening to the pants as center closing, draw one band section one
shown (Fig. 67-1) . half the waist measurement plus the overlap in
length and draw the other section only one
Waist finishes half the waist measurement, unless you have
sewn a facing underneath the zip per. (See the
The waist area of the pants may be finished in side zipper Fig 33-1 0.) When th is facing is
various ways. It may or may not have a waist- used the second waistband section must in-
band . If it does, the band may be wide or clude the width of the facing as well.
narrow. If not elasticized, it may simply be For side closing, draw one section of the
faced, or feature a yoke, or it may even be cut waistband equal to 1/ 4 of the waist plus the
down below the waistline to hug the hips. All of width of the zipper facing . (See the side zipper
these waist finishes are discussed in detail Fig. 33-1 0.) Draw the second section equal to
below. 3 / 4 of the waist measurement plus the overlap.

The width of these sections is equal to the

Waistbands proposed width of the band. Mark off the over-
lap and the facing width on the waistband
The standard narrow waistband has a finished patt.erns and mark the remaining portion at
width of approximately 1" (2.5 em), but it may intervals of 1 / 4 of the waist. These markings are
be slightly wider if desired. If the pants are to to match the sid e and center-front seams of
be worn with a narrow belt, measure the width the pants to help you attach the band
of the belt and draft the width of the waistband smoothly and evenly. Add 3 /a" (1 em) seam
accordingly. Usually, add about 11/2" (4 em) allowance to all seams except the center
for overlap to the waist measurement to give back; add 11/2" (4 em) seam allowance there.
the finished length of the band. Seam the Cut each section twice - once in the pant fab-
band at the center back to allow for alteration ric and once in the lining. Transfer the mark-
in case of weight loss or gain. Therefore, leave ings.
the center back seam of the pants unsewn for To g ive the waistband a fi rmer, more per-
3" (7.5 em) below the waist. Draw the pattern manent shape, use an interlining of stiff inter-
for the waistband in two sections. The dimen- facing fabric or gross !rain ribbon. Cut strips
sions of the sections will depend on whether a of interlining to the exact length and width that

Fig. 68

1
WRONG
SIDE
3

to-1
I
 45
the finished band sections are to measure. Add 1" for overlap. Sew pelon or a stiffer
Extend the interlining about 1" (2.5 em) into fabric to the band to prevent buckling and
the center back seam allowance (Fig. 68) . wrinkling. The method for sewing this band is
Place the interlining on the fabric sections so similar to the method described above. Fas-
that there is a 3 /a" ( 1 em) margin of fabric ten the waistband with buttons and but-
showing all around these strips. Baste it in tonholes , (handworked or machine made),
place. pant hooks, hooks and eyes, loops and but-
With the center back seam of the pants and tons , or lacing.
the band left open. sew each band section to
the corresponding section of pants as follows:
Match the 1 / 4 waist and overlap markings to
the corresponding pant seams. Pin the waist- Waist Facing
band to the waistline. Stitch on the seamline
( 1). Do not catch the interlining in the stitching. Instead of adding a waistband to the slacks,
Trim the waistline seam allowance to 3/a" (1 you may face the waistline. Draw the pattern
em) . Press the band up. for the facing right on the front and back pat-
Fold the remaining seam allowances of the terns of the slacks (Figs. 4 and 5) . Draw the
band over the edge of the interlining (2) , treat- facing lines parallel to the waist lines (9 - 14)
ing the center back seam allowance of the and (9a-14) about 2 1/2" (6.3 em) below. This
pants as shown in (3). Press. Also, press 2 1/2" 6.3 em) section is used for the waist
under the seam allowances on the lining sec- facing and should be traced on to a separate
tions (4). Place the lining on the band so that sheet of paper. Be sure also to trace the dart
the top edge is 1/a" (.3 em) below the top of the sections which can be folded out on the pat-
band (5) . Baste in place. Topstitch along the tern to eliminate extra bulk in the actual facing.
edge of the lining through all thicknesses (6). If th~ pants have a side opening, cut the front
Baste the bottom edge of the lining in place to facing with the center front on the fold of the
the band. With the right side up, stitch on the fabric . Leave the center back seam open until
bottom edge of the band through all thicknes- the facing has been sewn to the waistline; then
ses. Make sure this stitching line secures the sew in a continuous seam with the center back
bottom of the lining in place (7). Adjust the of the pants to allow for alteration. To prevent
seam allowances on the bottom and on the the waistline from stretching out of shape, sew
end (8) of the lining on the overlap section so non-bias tape in the waistline seam when you
that they are not visible from the front. attach the facing .
Sew down the ends (8) and (9) of the lining
to the band by hand.
Sew the center back seams of the pants
and the band together in one continuous Elastic Waist
seam ( 10) after you have completed the band .
The wider waistband may be preferred. Since tunic tops or overblouses are a popular
Decide on the width of the band . Draft one accompaniment to pants, an elastic waist is
band section as shown in Fig. 69. AC is the often used for comfort. The elastic may be
width of the band . CD is 1/ 4 of the waist meas- inserted in a waistband or in a waistline which
urement. AB is 1/ 4 of the measurement around is faced . With a non-stretch fabric, make the
the body where the top of the band will lie. waist equal to the hip measurement unless an
opening (zipper or button) is used. When an
opening is used draft the waistline 1/ 4 of the
waist plus 314'' (2 em) for dart allowance on the
A 8 front and back patterns . This procedure also

I ~
applies for the elastic waist in a stretch fabric
where no closing is featured . The darts are not
sewn in but left unsewn for ease in pulling the
c D
pant waist over the hips. (Refer to the shorts
Fig. 69 pattern with elastic waist on page 17.)
46
The width of elastic used depends on the Waist Yoke (Fig. 70)
individual's taste, usual ly 112" /1" (1.3-2.5
em). Casing may be added directly to the top Slacks with a waist yoke are easily designed .
of the front and back pattern pieces, or it may Draw the desired yoke line directly on the
be cut separately, the size of the elastic in slack pattern. Separate the slacks from the
width and the waist measurement in length. yoke. The dart sections may be folded in on
When sewing the casing to the waistline re- the yoke pattern only, provided that the yoke
member to leave a 2" (5 em) opening for inser- line does not lie below the end of the darts.
tion of the elastic. The length of the elastic When dart sections are folded in, the waist
should be measured by placing it around the and yoke lines wi ll not have a smooth cu rve,
waist at the desired degree of expansion. but wi ll have to be red rawn before the pattern
The elastic waistline is especial ly popular in can be cut out. Add the seam allowances as
children's clothes as the difference between shown. Face the waist yoke either with slack
their waist and hip measurements is usually fabric or lining. It may be interlined for better
small. The procedure is the same as for shape retention .
adults.

BACK
FRONT

WAIST YOKE STYLE

Fig. 70
 47
HIP

FRONT BACK

Fig. 71

Hip-Hugger Pants (Fig . 71) Belt Loops

The waistline of the pant pattern is cut down Belt loops are made in various widths and
2" to 3" (5- 7.5 em) or so below the natural lengths and may be attached to the pants in
waist position for the hip hugger style. The different ways.
pants should fit snug ly in the hip area, and it Narrow belt loops are constructed as fol-
may therefore be necessary to let out or take in lows: Cut strips of material 2213 times the de-
the center back seam. sired width of the loops. (See Fig. 72.) The
Usually the lowered waistline of the hip- length of the strip is determined by the width of
hugger pants is finished with a yoke or simply the belt to be used plus 1" (2.5 em). Fold the
a facing. Therefore, cut the slack pattern strips as shown in Fi gs. 72 and 73. Fold one
down the requ ired amount below the waist edge over the width of the loop. Then fold the
before drawing the facing or yoke pattern other edge back over the first edge and hand-
lines. stitch it to the adjacent layer only, so that the
stitches do not show from the right side (Fig.
73-1 ). Edgestitch along both edges of the
strip (Fig . 73-2).

~--------------

~--------------

Fig. 72 Fig. 73
48
3 4 2 2 3 4
ell I II I I: :II I 11 II -
\ I
I
I

u; l1J m UJ LL I
0 0 0
ai 0
"I
01
(i) (j I
iii I
I
I
I
I

C.F. - Center Front Fig. 74

C.B. - Center Back

seam. Secure the tops of the loops at the back

of the band in the top seam between the lining
and the waistband.
For pants which do not have a waistband ,
sew the loops to the pants with two rows of
stit<;;hing at each end as described for attach-
ing the bottom of the center back loop.
ill
Leg finishes

I The final step in constructing the pants in-

Fig. 75 volve~ finishing the bottom edges of the pant
legs. The most common ways of finishing
Fig . 74 illustrates the placement of the loops theres edges are with a hem or a turned-up
when pants feature a waistband. Place the cuff.
first loop ( 1) above the first front dart. Center
the next loop (2) on the center back seam after
the seam has been sewn. Space the two loops
(3) and (4) equally between loops (1) and (2) Hem of Pant Legs
on both left and right sides of the pants.
Another loop may be placed on the left side of The bottom edges of the pant legs may be
the pants next to the fly as marked (5) on Fig. turned up a uniform distance from the floor all
74. the way around the leg , and handstitched in
Attach the center back loop as shown in Fig . place. Often , however, the hems of flares and
75. Sew the bottom end of the loop in place straight-legged pants are shaped sl ightly,
below the waistband (1-1). Fold the loop up being dropped 1/2" to 3 /4'' (1.3-2 em) at the
along this stitching and stitch again across the back of the pant leg. Since the drop is only
fold (11-1 ). Secure the top edge of the loop small , this style feature is accommodated in
between the waistband and the lining in the the 2" (5 em) hem allowance which is cut on
inside of the pants (III ). the front and back pant sections. To locate the
To attach the remaining loops to the pants. desired position of the hemline of the pant
sew the bottom of the strip to the waistline legs, try the pants on and have someone mark
 49
the desired length at the center front and width of the cuff below line (4). Extend the
center back of the pant leg . Turn up the hem vertical centerline of the pant pattern down to
allowance so that the hemline hangs line (5) . For slims and flares , draw vertical
smoothly. When stitching the edge of the hem lines from the points where lines ( 1) and (2)
in place, leave 1/2" ( 1.3 em) on either side of meet the pant leg seams down to line (5) .
the center front crease line unsewn as, when
the hem allowance is folded up on an angle,
the front allowance has a tendency to pull
towards the back. The back hem allowance
will then have excess material at the center
back which should be taken up in a wedge
shaped tuck.
If the raw edge of the hem will fray , finish it
with a zig zag stitch, a seam binding, or if
suitable, turn it under 114'' (.7 em) and stitch,
before it is handstitched in place. The type of 2
handstitch used depends on how the raw
edge of the hem is finished and, ultimately, on 3
the pant fabric. When sewing the pant hem, 0
remember to take small stitches in the pant leg 4
itself and to refrain from pulling the stitches too 5
tightly so that the edge of the hem won't be
indicated on the front of.the pants. It is wise to
try out a few stitches of different sizes and Fig. 76
tensions to determine which is suitable for
your fabric.

Draw in the seam lines for the cuff sections

between these vertical lines in a zig-zag man-
ner as shown on the drawing. For straight-leg
Cuffs or elephant styles, this last step is not neces-
sary as the pant leg seams are vertical and
Cuffs may be added to the bottom of the pant should just be extended straight down to line
legs for a more tailored looking pant. An ex- (5). Add the extension both to the front and to
tension must be added to the bottom of the the back patterns. The drawing shows the
pattern to accommodate the extra fabric re- pattern for the cuff section with the addition of
quired for this style feature. Before drawing 5 /a" (1 .5cm) seam allowances.

this extension, you must decide on the width Stitch the front and back leg sections to-
of the cuff. Usually the cuff is from 1" to 11/2'' gether along the seam lines as indicated by
(2.5-4 em) in width but it may be as wide as the heavy lines on the drawing. Inserts (a) and
2" (5 em). Measure this distance up from the (b) are cross-section views to show how the
bottom of the pant leg (line 2 in Fig. 76) , and cuff is folded. Fold the bottom of the cuff under
draw the horizontal line (1 ). on line (3). Hemstitch line (5) in place. Bring
Construct horizontal lines (3) and (4) such folded line (3) up to line (1 ), creasing for the
that lines (1 ) , (2), (3), and (4) are equally bottom edge of the pants along lines (2) and
spaced . Draw a horizontal line (5) at 3/ 4 of the (4).
50
Decorative Touches

Decoration may be added to the pant legs in a

variety of ways. Shown in this section are
loops and buttons (Fig . 77) , lacing (Fig . 78)
and buttons and buttonholes (Fig. 79). All are
added to the seams of the pant legs. Both
lacing, and loops and buttons have been dis-
cussed previously in the section dealing with
types of closings on page 32. When adding
facing or buttons to the side seam of the pant
legs, cut the seam allowances wider in this
area so that they can be pressed back and
used as facings . A separate facing is required
for any edge to which loops are sewn. For
instructions on the construction and place-
ment of loops refer to page 32.
Before adding any of these features , the
hem must be finished. Leave the bottom part
of the side seam unsewn. Turn up the hem
(Fig. 78) and stitch it in place (1 ). Then, press
back the seam allowances along the side
seam line (2). Turn under the bottom corners Fig. 78

of the seam al lowances or facings and stitch

in place to the hem allowance as shown (3).
For decoration of the leg seam with buttons
and buttonholes (Fig. _79) cut the extra fabric
required in one with the pants. Extend this
extra section out from the side seam allow-
ance, twice the desired width of the extension.
Start 5/a" ( 1.5 em) above the desired finished
top of the extension and end at the bottom
edge of the pants. Fold the extension with
right sides together so that it measures the
desired width from the side seam line to the
fold. Stitch horizontally from the folded edge
to the side seam line (1) 5/a" (1.5 em) from the
top . Cut diagonally in from the seam allow-
ance of the pants to the end of the stitching
(2). Trim the top seam allowance and turn the
extension so that the right side faces out.
Press. Place the buttonholes as desired on
this extension. Sew the side seam from the
point where the stitching line (1) stops up to
the waist, or to the end of the side zipper.
Fig. 77 Finish the hem and facings as above.
 51
These decorative features have been ap- and side seam lengths to the floor. The differ-
pl ied to the bottom half of the side seam only , ence between these two measurements plus
but they can be used to adorn pockets and 2" (5 em) is the distance from the waist to the
waist yokes , or they can extend all the way up crotch line on the pattern.
the side seams. Pleats, ruffles , godets, em- Elasticized waistlines are usually desired.
broidery, and many more decorative effects Therefore, draw the front and back waist lines
may be used . The variations in decorative styl - equal to 1/ 4 of the hip measurement. Follow the
ing seem almost limitless and provide much instructions given for th e Elastic Waist on
scope for the imaginative sewer. page 44.

Children's slacks
Maternity slacks
Because of rate of growth and of the small
difference between hip and waist measure- For maternity slacks, a stretch panel is in-
ments, a child's slacks are usually made to fit serted in the abdomen area of the slacks.
more loosely than an adult's. Therefore add Stretch panels may be purchased at any sew-
approximately 4" (1 0 em) to the hip measure- ing store. Measure the length and width of the
ment depending on the desired fit of the panel: Cut a section out of the front pan t pat-
slacks. Draft the pattern following the Basic tern equal to the size of the panel. The waist-
Slack Pattern Procedure (pages 6 and 7). line may be elasticized or fastened with d raw-
Check that the crotch line is in the correct strings which may be pulled through a casing
position on the pattern by taking the inseam sewn to the waist of the pants.

I
I
I 2
! "'---
.:f_

I
-0

-0

..___ _.....-...~_- _,
I

Fig. 79
52
The versatility of slacks in a wardrobe must not mer than desired. Shimmering and shiny fab-
be underrated . Not only are they practical rics are real eye-catchers. If a great deal of
from many points of view, but they can be a such fabrics is used in an outfit, the effect may
stylish and flattering part of almost every be overpowering.
women 's wardrobe. Some feel they symbolize Similarily, stripes, checks, and plaids may
the spirit of the Women's Liberation Move- have an effect on the appearance. For exam-
ment. Others feel that they are modern ple, vertical , uneven stripes may make a
women 's reaction to the insecurity of the mini person 's legs look longer and slimmer than do
styles and the restrictions of the midi. What- even , l1orizontal stripes. This effect depends
ever the reason for their popularity, however, on the colours of the stripes and on the weight
women of all ages are wearing slacks with and texture of the fabric . But, it is important to
increasing frequency . consider how a fabric stripe or design will look
Choosing a fabric for slacks is a decision on you .
which presents problems for many women Colour is not as imprntant a factor unless
because of the many considerations involved. the top, with which the pants will be worn, will
An attempt has been made here to offer some repeat the colour of the pants. In general,
suggestions which may help you to make wise bright eye-catching colours tend to increase
decisions in choosing pant fabrics. the apparent size of an individual. More sub-
No longer are women's slacks acceptable dued and darker colours tend to decrease
only for housework and sports. Today, many size. Since fabrics are available in so many
offices and stores allow and even encourage hues and shades of colou r, and in many dif-
their employees to wear pant suits to work; ferent qualities. these guidelines are very flex-
many schools now admit co-eds wearing ible.
slacks into the classrooms. But their use does Before making the final decision to purch-
not stop here. Formals and even weddings ase a certain fabric , try to picture your slacks
feature many beautiful pant and jump suits in made up in this fabric to determine whether
varied luxurious materials. Therefore, it is im- the overall effect will be pleasing .
portant to consider whether your slacks will be Many fabrics on the market today may
worn as sports, street, or evening wear. satisfy your needs and taste. These fabrics
Texture should be taken into consideration can be classified according to type of fabric
when choosing a fabric. Some textures tend to (e.g ., crepe, flannel, jersey) , or according to
make a person look smaller or larger than do fiber content (e.g., polyester, wool), or by a
others. For example, heavy, bulky tweeds combination of the two (e.g. , polyester crepe).
may flatter the tall , slim person, but make the The following charts may help you to select
short person look wider than she really wants fabrics for slacks. The first chart describes the
to look. Conversely, fine, clingy fabrics may fabrics and the second chart tells how to
make the tal l, slim person look taller and slim- handle them.
54
Fabrics suitable for slacks

Chart I

Fibre Fabrics Properties

Cotton knits, sailcloth, poplin durable, easy care, washable,

duck, seersucker. terrycloth, can be treated for permanent press-
denim, corduroy, velvet, weakens fabric ,
velveteen, voile comfortable, absorbs moisture,
can be made shrink resistant,
does not collect static

Wool woven flannel , broadcloth, holds press-good for tailored

worsted , woollen, tweed , slacks,
knit jersey, doubleknit, crease resistant,
crepe comfortable- absorbs moisture and
insulates,
shrinks-dry clean unless "washable"

Nylon stretch knits, easy care, washable, durable,

velvet, can be used for waterproof sportswear,
brushed jersey, wrinkle resistant
sheers,
light weight woven fabrics

Acetate jersey, tricot, shiny, lustrous, good body,

crepe, satin, brocade, smooth, soft, drapey, wrinkles ,
shantung, moire, taffeta collects static electricity,
not strong or durable,
often blended with another fibre,
iron on " low" on wrong side,
wash or dry clean depending on fabric

Acrylic bulky knits, double knits, crease resistant,

crochet materials, collects static,
light weight woven materials, not as absorbent as wool,
sheers washes and dries quickly

Polyester c repe , knits, strong, durable,

sheers, little or no ironing,
can be blended with cotton wash and wear,
permanent press collects stati c readily

Triacetate tricot, can be crease resistant-especially tricot,

sharkskin, can be cared for easily,
blended fabrics can be permanently pleated
 55
Chart II How to handle fabrics

Fabrics Cutting & sewing Pressing

Woollens pre-shrink, steam iron may be used ,

if napped use directional layout, damp cloth
finish raw edges

Cottons pre-shrink, iron when material is damp,

finish raw edges steam iron

Silks use sharp, fine needle, maY. have to avoid using steam,
fine th read , test scrap first,
silk pins place thin cardboard between seam
allowance and slacks when pressing

Light Weight French seams, no steam,

Sheers may pin to tissue paper when press lightly at fibre setting
cutting out to prevent stretching,
fine sharp needle and pins,
stitch with tissue paper

Crepe if lightweight, treat as for sheers do not over press,

in cutting and sewing dry iron on wrong side using correct fibre
setting,
use cardboard between layers for pressing

Peau de soie, directional layout may be no steam,

satin , moire, requ ired , press with point of iron or place cardboard
taffeta, pins mark material, layer between seam allowance and slacks,
brocade silk pins may be used, do not over press
sharp needle,
finish raw edges,
hold layers taut when stitching

Velvets and directional layout, press on velvet board using tip of iron, and
other napped use fine pins, needle and thread , in most cases steam may be used
fabrics pattern may be scotch taped to
wrong side of fabric if desired,
cut with sharp shears
56

Fabrics Cutting & Sewing Pressing

Metallic fine needle, use dry iron, or pre-test a

synthetic thread, scrap for effect of steam,
if scratchy, line with thick lining, or finger press
bind seam allowance with bias
tape for medium weight, and
with organza for sheers

Lace may require directional may be steam pressed depending on fibre

treatment,
may use French seams
t

Knits check for directional treatment, synthetic crimps , press lightly with damp
stretches, requires care in ctoth,
cutting, use point of iron ,
cut with sharp shears, iron can be fairly hot,
use long fine pins, test scrap first
sharp fine needle,
may sew seams with fine zigzag
stitch,
pre-shrink if washable,
sew with polyester th read,
check grain
 57

l11tlex

Acrylic, 54 Fabric Invisible button fly, 35

Adjustments. pattern, 8 acrylic , 54
flat derriere, 13 corduroy, 21 Knit fabric, 5
full derriere, 11 cotton, 20, 54, 55
high hip curve, 9 crepe, 20, 55 Lacing, 31 , 32, 50
low crotch location, 13 crimps, 20 Layout procedures, 19
one high hip, 11 knits, 5, 20 Leg finishes, 49
protruding stomach, 9 nylon, 54 Lining, 26
sway back, 11 polyester, 54 Loops, belt, 47
prints, 21 Loops and buttons, 31 . 32, 50
Baggie pants, 15 sheers, 20, 55 Low crotch location, 13
Basic slack pattern, 4, 6, 7 silk, 55
Belt loops, 47 triacetate, 54 Marking and outlining the pattern, 23
Button fly, 32 velvet, 21, 55 Matching side seams, 18
invisible. 35 wool. 20, 54, S5 Maternity slacks, 51
Buttonholes, 34, 50 Fabrics Measurements, 2, 3
size of, 34 checks, 19, 2 1 crotch depth, 18
width of, 34 cutting and sewing, 51 cuff, 3 , 18
Buttons and buttonholes, 31, 50 grain of, 20 knee, 3 ,18
how to handle, 55 minimum-cuff, 18
Chalk markings, 23 nap of, 21 hip, 3
Checking the grain, 20 permanent press, 20 record of, 2
Checks, 53 preparation of, 20 thigh , 3 , 18
Children's slacks, 51 pressing, 55 waist, 3
Closings, 26 suitable for slacks, 53 Measuring, 2
buttons and buttonholes, 31 , 50 texture, 53 Men's pants. 5
lacing, 31 , 50 Fibre, 54
loops and buttons, 31 Figure problems, 8 Nap, 21
types of, 31 flat derriere, 12 Notches, 19, 23
zipper, 26 full derriere, 10 Nylon, 54
Colour, 53 high hip curve, 10
Cord, 31 low crotch location, 12 Pant fabrics , 53
Cotton, 54, 55 one high hip, 10 Pants (slacks)
Crepe, 55 protruding stomach, 8 baggie, 15
Cuffs. 49 sway back, 10 children's, 51
Cutting procedures, 19 Fitting, 25 elephant, 15
Flared pants, 16 flared . 16
Darts, 4 Flat derriere, 13 hip-hugger, 47
back, 5 Fly, button, 32, 35 hot. 15
direction to stitch, 25 Fly front zipper, 26 maternity. 51
front, 4 Full derriere, 11 shorts, 17
waist, 4 slims, 16
Decorative touches, 50 Hem of pant legs, 48 straight-legged, 15
High hip curve , 9 Patch pockets , 36
Elastic waist, 45 High hip, one, 11 Pattern
Elephant pants, 15 Hip-hugger pants, 47 adjustments, 8
Estimating amount of fabric , 19 Hot pants, 15 block, 1, 4
58
draftmg. 1
layout, 20. 22. 23
markmg. 23
outhn1ng. 23

PlaidS. 53
Pockets. 36
double welt openmg, 37
patch, 36
s1de seam. 40
western style, 42
Polyester, 54
Preshrink, 26
Press1ng, 25. 55. 56
Prints. 2 1
Protruding stomach. 9

Seam allowance. 23. 24

Separat1ng the pattern pieces, 19
Sew1ng slacks, 25
Sewmg techn1q ues. 25
Sheers. 55
Shorts. 17
S1de seam pockets, 40
Side zipper, 30
S1lk. 55
Slacks (see pants)
Slims, 16
Straigh t- legged pants. 15
Stretch fabric, 5, 31, 45
Stripes, 2 1, 53
vertical, 21
dominant, 21
Style variations. 14
Sway back, 1 1

Texture. 53
Transfer chalk mark1ngs. 23
Triacetate. 54

Velvet. 55

Waistbands, 44
Waist facing, 45
Waist finishes. 45
elas tic , 45
Wais t yoke. 46
Western style pocket, 42
Wool, 54, 55

Yoke, waist, 46

Zipper clos1ngs, 26
fly front, 26

1 2 3 4 5 # 135551 78 77 76 75 74