INDIAN HANDICRAFTS

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KEY WORDS: Handicrafts, Pottery, Cane, Bamboo Work, Natural Dyes, Horn Work, Leaf
Straw Work, Lacquer Work, Ivory, cane, Gadwal, Kothakota, Narayanpet, Venkatagiri,
Dharmavaram, Carpet Weaving, Kundan Jewelry, Leather Work, Paper Craft, Wood Work, Zari
and Zardozi, Metal ware, Pottery, Paintings, Leather Work, Ivory Carving , Stone Carving,
Bandhani Work, Bead Work, Embroidery Works, Silver Jewelry and Engraving Mithila Painting .

INTRODUCTION
The craft or handicraft sector is the largest decentralised and unorganised sector of the Indian
economy, and is among Indias largest foreign exchange earners. Handicrafts are rightly
described as the craft of the people: there are twenty-three million craftspeople in India today. In
India, craft is not merely an industry but the produce is viewed as a creation symbolising the
inner desire and fulfilment of the community. As Craft Council (1995) points out no Indian craft
is ever purely decorative. While handicrafts, be it metal ware, pottery, wood-work or weaving,
fulfil a positive need in the daily life of people, they also act as a vehicle of self-expression. In
ancient India, there is no division between decorative, artistic objects and those made for
everyday use.
The specialists, who produced goods and rendered services, for and to others, are what we call
artisans to-day. The artisan is an important factor in the equation of Indian society and culture.
By performing valid and fruitful social functions for the community, they earn for themselves a
certain status and a responsible position in society. The bold local styles that the village artisans
evolve operate as a great lever in the evolution of Indian art adding to the wealth and variety of
colour and design. Most craft people have learned their skills from their fathers or mothers since
caste and family affiliations, rather than training or market demand, have primacy in the Indian
situation.
The handicrafts sector is a home-based industry, which requires minimum expenditure,
infrastructure or training to set up. It uses existing skills and locally available materials. Inputs
required can easily be provided and these are more in terms of product adaptation than expensive
investment in energy, machinery or technology. In addition, income generation through craft
does not disturb the cultural and social balance of either the home or the community. Many
agricultural and pastoral communities depend on their traditional craft skills as a secondary
source of income in times of drought, floods or famine. Their skills in embroidery, weaving,
basket-making are a natural means to social and financial independence. However, with ever-
increasing competition from mill-made products and decreasing buying power of village
communities due to prevailing economic conditions, artisans have lost their traditional rural
markets and their position within the community.
Indian arts and handicrafts, the pinnacle of the workmanship of Indian craftsmen, have, since
time immemorial, captivated the imagination of people. Every state in India, boasts of a
specialty, depending upon its historical influences, traditional skills, and the raw materials,
locally available. India is world renowned for its dexterity in paintings, embroidery, pristine and
beautiful sculptures in stone, metal, wood, temple carvings and designed jewellery.
Handicrafts of Assam:
Artist and sculptors, architects, and others practicing minor crafts such as weavers, spinners,
potters, goldsmiths, artisans of ivory, wood, bamboo, cane flourished in Assam from ancient
times. Every household possesses a handloom used to produce silk .The Eri, Muga and Pat is the
important silk product of Assam.
Handicrafts of Bihar:
Unmatched art and unique craftsmanship find expression in each and every aspect of the life of
the people of Bihar. The folk paintings of the women of Mithila are the exclusive monopoly of
the women artists. These styles are known as Mithila Style. Mithila paintings or Madhubani
Paintings are famous all over the world for its intricate designs. The origin of the Mithila
painting seems very ancient. The women of Mithila are largely illiterate and these attractive
paintings created for ritual occasions are a means of their cultural expression. They cover their
courtyard walls. Considered to be a communal activity, in which women are allowed to assist,
these folk paintings are the domain of the women of the region. Young girls are encouraged to
learn the art in their childhood.
Handicrafts of Andhra Pradesh:
Andhra Pradesh has an age-old tradition of hand-woven fabrics. Sarees of the most unique and
generic designs are found in Andhra Pradesh. Silk and cotton saris come from the looms of
Venkatagiri, Gadwal, Narayanpet and Dharmavaram are very famous throughout India. They are
named after the place of their origin. Each of these weaving styles is distinct producing a unique
variety of fabric, known for their fine cotton and elaborates pallu's and beautiful borders with
ornate gold thread work.

Gadwal: Gadwal is one of the centers where typical, traditional Andhra saris are made, that are
unusually different. The Sari body is cotton while the border and pallu are in silk. The cotton and
silk fabrics are woven separately and then attached together. Yellow, parrot- green, pink and
beige are the colours used most often.
Kothakota: Kothakota saris are similar to the Gadwal saris, with silk borders and rich pallu's
with very innovative zari designs. The borders come in rich colours contrasting the body colour.
Narayanpet: Narayanpet saris, available in both cotton and silk are woven in dark earthy
colours and are particularly eye-catching. The pallu in these saris is characterized by a unique
pattern of alternating red and white bands.
Venkatagiri: The Venkatagiri saris have graceful strains of gold. These sarees are available in
cotton and silk, with pure silver zari and brocade designs in the border. The bright Venkatagiri
saris have pleasant colours with golden dots, leaves, parrots.
Dharmavaram: These saris have simple, plain borders without much contrast. The borders are
usually broad with brocaded gold patterns. Of late, these saris are being woven with "tussar" silk
also.
Other Famous Saris of Andhra Pradesh:
Bandarlanka handloom saris made of pure cotton with simple zari borders are available in a
variety of designs in Bandarlanka in East Godavari district. Siddipet and Armoor also produce
cotton saris in unique and rich designs. Srikakulam saris are simple with no borders.
Cotton saris from Uppada, the Mangalgiri with unique borders are very famous in India.
Handicrafts of Delhi:
Carpet Weaving:
Carpet weaving came into prominence during the Mughal era, when Akbar brought Persian
weavers to India. The main centers of carpet making were Srinagar , Lahore, Amritsar, Sind,
Multan, and Allahabad. At one time Delhi was a centre for the production of carpets.
Known for their harmonious colours, the design of these carpets was kind of standard. The
border was usually a broad and separated from the centre.
Kundan Jewellery:
Delhi is home to two very special kind of jewellery encouraged and patronized to the level of an
art form by the Mughals. The meeting of Hindu and Muslim cultures during the Mughal rule
created a rich variety of designs and during this time the art of Kundan was introduced to India.
Western influences during the British rule prompted to the traditional ornaments.
Kundan is the Mughal-inspired art of setting of stones in gold and silver. The Mughal fashion
was to enamel the reverse side of jewellery to protect it from contact with the wearer's skin.
Bamboo Work:
Chicks are window screens made of bamboo slats and are tied with plain or colored string in
designs all over northern India. Delhi also happens to be an important centre for chairs and stools
made of the tall golden-white sarkanda grass, which grows in abundance in the capital's area.
Ivory Carving:
Delhi is where the art of ivory carving flourished under the influence of the Mughal princes. The
chains and jewels decorating the elephant are all delicately caved out of a solid piece of ivory.
Delhi has also grown in importance as a manufacturing centre of ivory jewellery.
Carved ivory bangles, ear-studs and a variety of other utility items are produced in Delhi. Ivory
Palace in Shahjhanabad is a very famous in India.
Leather Work:
During the Mughal period, Delhi was an important centre of leatherwork. Traditional leather
jooties or ethnic footwear and slippers, which were sometimes ornamented with pearls, gold and
silver, were the piece beyond resistance. Embroidered bags, shoes, leather garments, leather
seats, were other popular items.
Paper Craft:
Talk of paper craft brings one inside the patang (kite) market in Lal Kuan bazaar in Old Delhi.
These colourful, feather-light kites come in all shapes and sizes, as kite flying is an important
national pastime. Tazia is the next most popular paper craft. A commemorative paper structure, it
consists of colored bits of paper pasted on a bamboo frame and carried in the Moharram
procession.
Pottery:
In Delhi, terracotta pottery is the one whose products make more attractive. Some prominent
terracotta items include cutwork lamps, long necked surahis (water-pots), gamle (flowerpots),
and cups of all shapes and sizes. These items are found in the Crafts Museum in Pragati Maidan,
Dilli Haat and just outside the New Delhi Railway Station.
Wood Work:
Because of the Mughal patronage, Delhi became a main centre for all sorts of crafts, among them
wood inlay work too. The Mughals loved decoration done with woodwork.
Recently Delhi has developed a number of successful designs for furniture. Well-known
designers, entrepreneurs, and furniture firms have revived several local designs for lathing,
carving and inlay and the number of successful workshops for artistic and functional furniture
continues to increase.
Zari and Zardozi:
Zari threads are used extensively in handloom and power loom saris, which are manufactured all
over India that consist of either real silver thread or gold-plated thread. Traditionally made for
Mughal and Rajput nobility, it has now been officially adopted as bridal wear. Now a days
synthetic or 'tested' zari embroidery is done. Cast metals are melted and pressed through split
steel sheets, to be converted into wires. Then they are hammered to the required thinness. The
craftsmen then start the actual embroidery, using needles of different sizes.
Handicrafts of Rajasthan:
Rajasthan, popularly known as the treasure of Indian handicrafts and shoppers paradise, has
been able to preserve its craft despite several ups and downs. Its rich heritage has played an
important role in the economy of the state. The glittering jewellery and attractive handicrafts of
Rajasthan have caught the fantasy of the people abroad and earned rich dividends.
Jewelry:
Rajasthani jewellery made of purest and finest materials is world-renowned. Rajasthan became
famous for its jewellery industry from very early times, being an important source of precious
and semi precious stones. Sophisticated jewellery, set with precious stones using the
Kundankari technique, or decorated with bright enamel work, known as minakari, was made
for the Rajput courtiers. Skillful artisans from Lahore, Delhi, Gujarat, and Bengal, Orissa
attracted by the liberal patronage of the kings, came to work.

Metal ware:
Indian craftsmen have always shown an exceptional skill in engraving and ornamenting of gold
and silver articles of everyday and decorative use. The metal work of Rajasthan comprises
artistic brass work, enameled, engraved and filigree cutwork on silver. The Jaipuri-engravers
have mastered the medium of engraving on metal.
Pottery:
Pottery, one of the old crafts, has its own standing tradition in Rajasthan. Certain shapes are
characteristic of Rajasthan. Alwar has been known for its double cutwork pottery known as
kagzi. It is made of a thin layer of clay and needs a high degree of skill. Blue Pottery of Jaipur
is unique in appearance. The art of glazed pottery came to India through Persia. The materials
used are Multani clay. The best pieces are hand painted.
Paintings:
Paintings of Rajasthan- miniature and folk are known all over the world. Hence, women have
been given prominence in all the artists creations. Folk paintings have also developed side by
side. Mandana is a folk craft of decoration of houses, which is quite popular in rural areas.
Mandanas indicate seasons with the vegetable designs depicting Diwali and Holi with the raw
mango. Sanjhi figure is made during the Dussehra festival.
Leather Work:
The use of leather in Rajasthan is very old. The beautifully designed leather shoes are well
known items in the world market. Leather is embroidered, punched, studded and stitched in
various eye-catching designs. The best-known centers of traditional footwear are Jaipur and
Jodhpur.
Ivory Carving:
Among the most intricate and painstaking crafts is ivory carving. Under regal patronage, the
most delicate art of ivory carving flourished, in the princely capitals of Rajasthan; Bharatppur,
Udaipur, Jaipur and Jodhpur. The art is still alive in the delicate ivory figurines of Gods and
Goddesses, minutely carved and perfectly proportioned. Animal figures, birds, fish trays and
paper knives and a host of other decorative objects are carved with utmost artistry and
craftsmanship.
Stone Carving:
Rajasthan is not merely famous for the valorous deeds and heroic sacrifices of its warriors but
also for its splendid architectural monuments made of stone. Temples, forts and palaces are
glorious achievements of the craftsmen that have few rivals.
Jaipur is the centre of marble carving in Rajasthan. Here artisans create marble images of the
deities as well as domestic utensils such as bowls for grinding spices. At centers such as Ajmer,
Udaipur, Jodhpur, Bikaner and Jaipur can be seen.
The traditional handicrafts of Rajasthan survived and developed because they were regarded as
material symbols of Rajasthans unique cultural ethos. With the initiative of the government,
these crafts were survived with the setting up of the All India Handicrafts Board at New Delhi
and the Rajasthan Small Scale Industries Corporation at Jaipur. Almost every craft is practiced
and marketed in Rajasthan and the tradition has been so nurtured by the craftsmen that the
products win the acclaim and appreciation from all.

Handicrafts of Gujarat:
Bandhani Saree Work:
Bandhani (tie and dye fabric) of Jamnagar, Mandvi and Bhuj are famous for their intricate
designs and patterns, which are used, in wedding outfits called as gharchola odhni and sarees.
The tie-dyed fabrics of Gujarat are perhaps the best produced in India. Dyeing is a hereditary art
and in the past cloth was dyed in colours extracted from trees and flowers.
Bandhani sarees are easily available in all the bazaars and shopping centres of Jamnagar.
Bead Work:
Beadwork is another Gujarati specialty. Beadwork objects are used in wall decorations. The best
beadwork is produced by the kathis (tribals). Worked mostly on a white background they use
colours that are vibrant with very distinct patterns. Beadwork torans (welcoming friezes) are
usually suspended over doorways. Just an hours drive from Ahmedabad, the artisans continue
the craft of stone cutting and bead making, which began in ancient times.
Embroidery Works:
Kachchh owes much of its fame today to its embroidery works. Much of the most colourful in
Gujarati embroidery belongs to Kachchh. With a needle for a paintbrush, the Kachchhi woman
gives expression to her creativity and proclaims her oneness with nature. The folk embroidery of
Kachchh is an ongoing and dynamic tradition. The most interesting aspect of the whole process
is that needlework and embroidery traditions are preserved and propagated by almost every
community, caste and sub- group in Kachchh. The finest needlework today comes from the many
communities living in the Banni tract of Kachchh district. The women of different communities
in Kachchh have their distinct styles, the most distinctive being that of the Rabari community of
Kachchh.
Embroidery in Leather:
It is a common art form of the Kachchh region of Gujarat. The northern villages of Dhordo,
Khavda and Hodko are home to the few remaining communities of leather embroiderers who
soak hide in a solution of water, latex and lime in an underground earthen pot before stitching it
with flower, peacock. The finished bags, fans, horse belts, cushion covers and mirror frames are
sold in villages all through the region.
Silver Jewellery and Engraving:
Silver jewellery is common, featuring in most traditional Kachchhi costumes. The earrings,
nose-rings, bangles and necklaces are similar to those seen in Rajasthan, since much of it is made
by the Ahir and Rabari communities. In Kachchh, the silver is mixed with zinc to make it more
malleable. The main centers for silver are Anjar, Bhuj. Kachchhi silver engraving is a famous art
form, practiced mainly in Bhuj. The final products, such as trays, pots, cups, pens and picture
frames, are smoothed down and polished in an acid solution.

Handicrafts of Orissa:
Of all the handicrafts of Orissa the most unique and the finest, is silver filigree, locally called
"Tarakasi". The craft is localised to Cuttack district of Orissa. The process consists of drawing
silver through a series of consecutively smaller holes to produce fine strands of wire. These wires
are then made into various shapes by deft hands of the craftsmen by bending them into different
designs and soldering them.
Items manufactured cover a wide range though they can be broadly divided into a few
categories. First, there are the ornaments for the ladies
Pottery
Tribal people are playing vital role in the field the making of handicrafts. The tribal people
extend their patronage to the other potters. They have long used the elemental quality of earth as
a substance in the execution of both ritual and utilitarian objects. A variety of roof tiles, utensils
such as pots, bowls, plates and jars. Simultaneously the potter creates votive strong forms of
bulls, elephants and horses as well as terracotta temples and toys.
Cane and Bamboo Work
Bamboo and cane have all the fertile qualities of nature's raw materials, which crafts persons
have successfully achieved. Besides which, bamboo splits are woven together to make baskets of
diverse shapes and sizes depending on the nature of goods they are required to carry
orstore.Similarly, the elasticity of cane has been utilized in the manufacture of a variety of
domestic goods.
Natural Dyes
The knowledge and use of vegetable and mineral dyes goes back to pre-historic times in India
where, according to data collected so far, there are nearly 300 dye-yielding plants available.
However, after chemical colours wave flooded the markets, only a small number of dyers
continued with natural dyes. Cotton yarn dyed is still used by the weavers of Kotpad in Koraput.
District.
Leaf Straw Work
Tribal women have been the traditional gatherers of leaves whose delicate hues and unique
qualities have been used in a multitude of ways for the manufacture of useful products. Farm
laborers and cattle grazers wear hats made of dried leaves, which provide protection from the sun
and are waterproof. In temples and at village feasts, food is still served in leaf plates and bowls.
Horn Work
Horn articles of Orissa are mystical and are blended with a super fashion design. Their lively
appearance, dynamism and animation view with the real objects of nature - that spells the names
of Parlakhemundi and Cuttack. Available in widest number of items like combs, pen stands,
decorative figures - horn articles form a memorable memento for the near and dear ones at home.
Lacquer Works
Lacquer is the refuse of an insect gathered by the tribal in the forests. The Hindu women of
Baleshwar and Nowrangpur districts mix it with colors and apply it on small cane boxes made by
tribals, and terracotta figures, which they make themselves. After several coats of lacquer have
sealed the core, the surface is decorated with. Although the visual power of color and design
combine to make an ornamental effect.
The Crafts of Uttar Pradesh
The crafts of Uttar Pradesh have a distinct style and have been patronized by the royalty in the
past. They speak of the rich tradition of craftsmanship that has developed over years in the state.
Therefore, Uttar Pradesh has evolved as an important center of craft in the country.
Zardozi
The most significant and renowned craft in the state is the craft of zardozi or silver and gold
embroidery. In Varanasi, Agra, Lucknow, Rampur, Bareilly and Farrukhabad, zardozi or zari
work is an age-old profession.
Chikankari
Lucknow, the capital of Uttar Pradesh is known for fine embroidery called chikankari.
Chikankari is intricate embroidery done on saris, kurtis and veils, which are in practice in the city
for thousands of year. The motifs of chikankari vary from floral and vine themes to birds,
animals and arabesques.
Jewelry
Jewelry making is also an old and popular craft of Uttar Pradesh. There are very old jewelry
shops in the state where one can find or make antique jewelry like the basra pearls, emeralds,
rubies and diamonds.
Benarasi Sarees
The beautiful and gorgeous Benarasi sarees, which are worn by the Bengali brides, have their
origin in Varanasi. The Benarasi sarees exemplifies the unique craftsmanship of the craftspeople
where gold and silver thread is used on fine silk. Mubarakpur is an important silk center in the
state, where various silk sarees are produced. The designs used here are nagai, which has gold
circles all over with rich floral patterns in the pallu and the phulwar, which has floral patterns on
the entire saree with a beautiful combination of colours.
Carpets/Kaleen
Uttar Pradesh is known for weaving carpets, which have developed as a small-scale industry.
Shahjahanpur, Mirzapur, Bhadohi are the hub of carpets in the state. They have their own distict
designs, which have various names like kethariwala jal, jamabaz, kandhari etc.
Nakkashi & Khudai
Muradabad in the state is renowned for the craft of metal wares. It is more famous for the
coloured enamelling and intricate engravings. The nakashi type engravings are done on tinned
surface and the khudai`s engraving is done on the lac coated unpolished brass on which a pointed
steel pencil is used to fill the design with lac of different colours.

Wooden Furniture
Saharanpur is well known for its carved and brass inlay furniture items, and other decorative
items. The various woods used for woodcraft include shisham, sal and dudhi, which are used to
make well-finished screens, room dividers and furniture.

Bangles & Beads

The city of Ferozabad in Uttar Pradesh is known for making beautiful glass bangles and other
sophisticated items of glass. Varanasi has expert craftsmen who are trained to make glass beads
that have a huge demand outside India. Saharanpur makes toys filled with colour liquid called
panchkora.

Embroidery Work in India

Embroidery Work in India is carried out in Punjab, Uttar Pradesh, West Bengal and many
other regions. Buttonhole or Blanket Stitch, Running Stitch, Cross Stitch, Satin Stitch and Chain
Stitch are some of basic techniques of stitching used in Indian Embroidery. It has also given way
to machine stitching with the advent of the industrial era. There are diverse varieties of Indian
embroidery.

Types of Indian Embroidery

Embroidery can be used in diversified manner according to the design that is stitched on top of
or through the foundation fabric, and also by the relationship of stitch placement to the fabric.
`Mirror work`, `Zari` work of Hyderabad, `Gota` work of Rajasthan, `zardozi` of Delhi,
`phulkari` of Punjab, `Chamba rumals`, `Kasuti embroidery` of Karnataka `Chikan embroidery`,
`Kantha embroidery` of West Bengal, etc are some of the significant classifications of Indian
embroidery.

The embroidery on wool of Cashmere on loom-wrought and with the needle is universally
famous. The Cashmere shawl trade is an old art. The cone pattern, with its flowing curves and
minute diaper of flowers characterise these shawls. The ornamentation of the shawls is
distinguished by different names. The border is disposed along the whole length and it may be
single, double, triple. Pala means the whole of the embroidery at the two ends, or at the heads of
the shawl. The chain runs above and below the principal mass of the pala. The dhour is situated
on the inside of the hashia and zangir. Mattan is the decorated part of the ground and the butha is
the generic term for flowers specifically applied alone to the cone ornament. When there is a
double row, the butha is called dokad, it is called if it is upto five and tukadar above five.

Muslin is embroidered at Patna, Delhi in coloured floss silk. Rich embroidery is also seen at
Hyderabad in coloured silk thread and gold and silver. The embroidery of Nauanagar, and
Gondal in Kathiwar is in coloured silk thread. Gold is also used in embroidery which is a Persian
style. The embroidered native apparel of Cashmere, Amritsar, Lahore, Delhi, Lucknow, Murshidabad,
Surat and Mumbai, is prized all over India; and that of Vishakapatnam has an extensive reputation
in the south. Carpets originated in embroidery and they were first used like embroideries for
hangings and palls.

In many parts of India muslin is beautifully embroidered with green beetle wings and gold. The
embroidered leather work of Gujarat is well known.
Chikan embroidery of Lucknow is very popular. chikankari is now being done on various fabrics
and are available in various colours too. Phulkari, an embroidery technique of Punjab is flower
working on shawls and head scarfs.
Applique work is seen in Orissa and Gujarat. It is basically a patch work in which coloured
pieces are cut and sewn on a plain cloth. Embroidery of Kutch is known as Aribharat is very
attractive. Embroidery of Lambada tribes of Andhra Pradesh is worth mentioning here. It is done
on fine cotton or polyester. Kantha stitch is practiced in Bihar and West Bengal. Here the threads
are picked from old materials.
Reference:
www.incredebleindia.com
www.indiantravelportal.com
http://www.culturalindia.net/indian-art/paintings/madhubani.html
http://www.mapsofindia.com/my-india/society/mithila-painting-art-and-crafts-of-india
http://www.craftsvilla.com/blog/history-of-madhubani-art-paintings-will-leave-you-in-awe/