Lonely Planet Publications

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CLIMATE & WHEN TO GO
Macedonia
After the crushing defeat of Serbia by the Ot-
Temperatures vary widely: summer tem- tomans in 1389, Macedonia became part of
peratures can reach 40C, while in winter it the Ottoman Empire.
can drop as low as minus 30C. The average The Ottomans divided civil life according
annual temperatures are above 10C almost to religious affiliation, in what was called the
everywhere. Summers are hot and dry, while millet system. The Greek Orthodox Church
in winter the snow falls in the mountains from was given much power over the Macedonian
November to April. Christians, causing great resentment.
Mountainous Macedonia still has an air of mystery to it. Simultaneously ancient and brand The best time to enjoy Macedonia is be- In 1878 Russia defeated Turkey, and Mac-
new, its struggling to find its place in the postcommunist world. Black-clad Orthodox monks tween May and September, and the peak tour- edonia was ceded to Bulgaria by the Treaty of
are just as much a part of this renewal as the hordes of teenagers, bedecked in the latest ist season is from mid-July to mid-August, San Stefano. The Western powers, fearing the
Italian fashions, sipping coffee in the stylish bars of the capital. when locals take their holidays. creation of a powerful Russian satellite in the
heart of the Balkans, forced Bulgaria to return
For outdoors types its a paradise. Its extensive wilderness allows ample opportunities for HISTORY Macedonia to Ottoman rule.
hikers, mountain climbers and skiers. Early History
Historical and geographical Macedonia is di- Nationalism
Its ancient ruins will fascinate anyone with even a smidgen of interest in history and vided between the Republic of Macedonia, the In 1893 Macedonian nationalists formed the
its wealth of art ranges from doe-eyed Byzantine icons to square-jawed socialist-realist
Greek province of Macedonia and a corner of Internal Macedonian Revolutionary Organi-
Bulgaria called Pirin Macedonia. The largest zation (VMRO) to fight for independence
statues. portion of the historic Macedonia region is from Turkey, culminating in the Ilinden up-
now Greek territory, a point that Greeks are rising of August 1903, which was brutally sup-
In short, for a little place its crammed with something for just about everyone.
always quick to make when disputing Mac- pressed in October of the same year. Although
Quite apart from Macedonias spectacular peaks, lakes and rivers, its the hospitality of the edonias use of the name, as they invariably the nationalist leader Goce Del ev died before
do. In any case, the region was the homeland the revolt, he has become the symbol of Mac-
people of this most southern of Slavic nations that will make your visit truly memorable. of Alexander the Great, who sallied forth to edonian nationalism.
conquer the ancient world in the 4th century The First Balkan War of 1912 saw Greece,
BC. Rarely independent, the territory of the Serbia, Bulgaria and Montenegro fighting
Republic of Macedonia has often been a staging together against Turkey. During the Second
post for invaders. Roman rule was entrenched Balkan War in 1913, Greece and Serbia ousted
HIGHLIGHTS boating on the lake. Head on to Bitola to after the conquest of Macedonia in 168 BC, the Bulgarians and carved up Macedonia.
Combine history, culture, natural beauty stroll about the Heraclea Lyncestis ruins, and over the next 500 years the ancestors of Frustrated by this, VMRO continued the
FAST FACTS and groovy bars by the lake at spectacular before staking out a spot on the fashion the Vlach people developed a Latin dialect. struggle against the new rulers, and in re-
Ohrid (p481) runway that masquerades as the main Todays Vlach community speak a language sponse the interwar government in Belgrade
Area 25,713 sq km
Get a whiff of Ottoman grandeur at styl- street. If youre not ruined out, see the an- called Aromanian, which, as the names sug- banned the Macedonian language and the
Capital Skopje ish Bitola (p485 ), with a national park on cient city of Stobi on returning to Skopje. gests, is related to Romanian and Latin. Many name Macedonia. Though some VMRO ele-
Currency Macedonian Denar (MKD); its doorstep and the nicest urban space Vlach villages lie along the route of the Roman ments supported Bulgarian occupation during
1 = 64.10MKD; US$1=50.50MKD; in Macedonia Via Egnatia, a vital military road and trade WWII, many more joined Josip Broz Titos
UK1 = 94.70MKD; A$1 = 37.95MKD; Whet your appetite for this ancient land HOW MUCH? route that stretched from Durrs in Albania partisans, and in 1943 it was agreed that post-
100 = 42.90MKD; NZ$1 = 32.50MKD with Macedonias capital Skopje (p474), to Istanbul (Constantinople) in Turkey. When war Macedonia would have full republic status
which dishes up great cuisine, buzzy bars Cup of coffee 70MKD the Roman Empire was divided in the 4th cen- in a future Yugoslavia. Tito led the communist
Famous for Alexander the Great, Mother
Teresa (born in Skopje), Lake Ohrid
and historic sites Loaf of bread 20MKD tury AD, this region came under the Eastern resistance to German occupation in WWII
Follow in the footsteps of hermits, monks Roman Empire, ruled from Constantinople. and later became prime minister, then presi-
Official Languages Macedonian, Souvenir icon 186MKD
and revolutionaries via the mountainous Slavs started settling in the area in the 7th dent, of Yugoslavia.
Albanian paths around beautiful Lake Matka (p480) Six pieces of kebapci (meat rolls) 90MKD century AD, and not long after adopted the The end of WWII brought Macedonians
Phrases zdravo (hello); blagodaram/fala Short taxi ride 50MKD Christian faith of earlier residents. hope of unifying their peoples. This was en-
(thanks); molam (please); do gledanje ITINERARIES In the 9th century the region was con- couraged by the Greek Communist Party and
(goodbye) Three days Spend a day exploring the sights LONELY PLANET INDEX quered by Car Simeon (r 893927) and later, Bulgarias recognition of its Macedonian mi-
Population 2,050,554
of Skopje. Then get a bus to Ohrid and under Car Samoil (r 9801014), Macedonia norities. However the Stalin-Tito split of 1948,
spend two days poking about the churches Litre of petrol 60MKD was the centre of a powerful Bulgarian state. and the end of the Greek civil war in 1949, put
Telephone Codes country code %389; and lazing around and in the glorious Litre of bottled water 20MKD Samoils defeat by Byzantium in 1014 ushered an end to such hopes. Nonetheless, the first
international access code %00 lake. in a long period when Macedonia passed back Macedonian grammar was published in 1952
Skopsko beer 80MKD
Visas not needed for citizens of the EU, One week As above, but take an extra day and forth between Byzantium, Bulgaria and and an independent Macedonian Orthodox
USA and New Zealand; most others do in Skopje to visit Lake Matka. From Ohrid Souvenir T-shirt 450MKD Serbia. Around this time the first Roma (also Church was reinstated.
require one, see p490 visit the Sveti Naum monastery for a day Street snack (burger) 60MKD known as Gypsy) people arrived in the area Over the subsequent 40 years Yugoslavia
of ancient frescoes, posing peacocks and after a long migration from northern India. prospered by comparison with other Eastern
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European states, with citizens free to travel Albanian language, as well as an increase in so economically deprived and socially stigma- singers, the velvety-voiced Esma Redepova, The famous shepherd dog (arplaninec), menu theyre delicious, but theyll prob-
and worship as they wished. The country was the number of ethnic Albanian police officers tised as to be an underclass all on their own. is from Skopje. from the ar Planina mountains, stands some ably be stuffed with meat. Stuffed meat is
also open as a tourist destination. throughout the country. Despite all this, it is absolutely the case that Young Macedonians generally prefer to 60cm tall and is a fierce fighter in defending also popular, in which case itll be filled with
Macedonia became an official candidate for all communities are generous and hospitable, listen to their own pop music over English- flocks from bears or wolf packs. Dont mess cheese.
Independence EU membership in December 2005 and has and if the topic of community relations comes language artists, although hip-hop and metal with them. Dont order the Lake Ohrid trout its an
On 8 September 1991 Macedonians held a been steadily progressing towards that goal. up, most people will say they get along just have their fans. Macedonian pop tends to be Lakes Ohrid, Prespa and Dojran are sepa- endangered species, not to mention horribly
referendum on independence. Seventy-four Stumbling blocks may be the name issue with fine with everyone and its the politicians who of the Eurovision style upbeat synth-heavy rate fauna zones, a result of territorial and expensive. Even the most expensive restau-
percent voted in favour and in January 1992 Greece and increasing European concerns stir up trouble for their own benefit. Just be numbers with a vaguely gypsy feel. temporal isolation. Lake Ohrids fauna is a rants (pe ) tend to have cheap options on
the country declared its full independence about enlargement. Macedonia also hopes to aware that it is a sensitive topic. relic of an earlier era including the en- the menu, especially salads or pasta. Balkan
from the former Yugoslavia. Macedonian join NATO before the end of the decade. Dance dangered letnica trout (also known as Lake burek (cheese, spinach, potato or meat in filo
leader Kiro Gligorov artfully negotiated the At the time of writing Macedonia has found RELIGION The most famous Macedonian folk dance is Ohrid trout on English-language menus, and pastry) or kebapci (kebabs) make for a cheap
only peaceful withdrawal of the Yugoslav itself caught between European justice and Most Macedonians belong to the Macedonian probably tekoto oro (difficult dance). Music koran in Albania) and a genus of snail dating snack. Italian food is available just about
army from any of the former republics. a possible NATO partner, in a case where Orthodox Church, and most Albanians, Turks for this beautiful male dance is provided by back 30 million years. It is also home to the everywhere, and should give vegetarians a
Greece withheld diplomatic recognition of a German man was allegedly detained by and Roma to Islam. There is also a smallish the tapan and zurla. Performed in traditional mysterious European eel, which comes to welcome relief from salads.
Macedonia and demanded that the country Macedonian officials when entering the coun- Catholic community, nearly all ethnically Macedonian costume, it is often included in Lake Ohrid from the distant Sargasso Sea to The terms caf and bar are interchangeable
find another name, worried that it implied try before being handed over to Americas Albanian, whose most famous daughter was festivals or concerts. live for up to 10 years. It makes the trip back as they both tend to serve coffee and alcohol.
territorial claims over Aegean Macedonia, CIA, kidnapped and flown to Afghanistan Mother Teresa. The once-sizable Jewish com- Other dances include komitsko oro, to the Sargasso Sea to breed, then dies and its Dont expect to find any food at a caf. The
which they had obtained in the 1913 carve-up. for interrogation. There is some concern that munity was deported en masse for the death which symbolises the struggle of Macedo- offspring start the cycle anew. national firewater is rakija, a strong distilled
At Greek insistence, Macedonia was forced to Macedonias non-cooperation with European camps at Treblinka and Auschwitz during nian freedom fighters against the Turks, spirit popular throughout the Balkans. A par-
use the provisional title Former Yugoslav Re- investigators may prove a stumbling block to WWII. and Tresenica, a womens dance from the National Parks ticularly Macedonian variety is the ouzo-like
public of Macedonia (FYROM) in order to be EU membership. Mavrovo region. The oro is similar to the Macedonias three national parks protect mastika.
admitted to the UN in April 1993. When the ARTS kolo, a circle dance that is danced throughout 205,235 hectares of mountain wilderness Macedonia produces excellent wine which
USA (following six EU countries) recognised PEOPLE Cinema the Balkans. 8.07% of the country. They are Pelister is exported throughout the region. The two
FYROM in February 1994, Greece declared Theres a reason why the French call a mixed The most significant Macedonian film is (p485 ), Gali ica (between Lakes Ohrid and main varieties grown are Vranec, a rich fruity
an economic embargo against Macedonia salad a salade macdoine. Its hard to imagine Before the Rain (1995), directed by Mil o ENVIRONMENT Prespa) and Mavrovo ( p480 ). Addition- red, and Smederevka, a light white with citrus
and closed the Aegean Macedonian port of a place where ethnicity is such a confused Man evski. Visually stunning, with a great The Land ally, Lake Ohrid is on the World Heritage notes.
Thessaloniki to trade. The embargo was lifted topic. Bulgarians think that Macedonians are cast and a haunting soundtrack, the film is a Most of Macedonias 25,713 sq km consists List. Pelister and Gali ica are both part of
in November 1995 after Macedonia changed
its flag and agreed to discuss its name with
Greece. To date, theres been no resolution of
really Bulgarians, some Serbs think theyre
actually Serbs. Greeks think theyre anything
but Macedonian a name they consider they
manifold take on the tensions between Mac-
edonians and ethnic Albanians. Filmed partly
in London and partly in Macedonia, you will
of a plateau between 600m and 900m above
sea level, hemmed in by high mountains on
its western borders 16 of which are higher
a broader nature protection zone around
Lake Prespa, shared with adjacent areas in
Albania and Greece. Being mountainous,
SKOPJE
this thorny issue. Increasingly the name Mac- own the rights to, even though its well docu- be able to spot the Sveti Jovan at Kaneo church than 2000m. Golem Korab (2864m), on the hiking is only possible during the warmer %02 / pop 507,000
edonia is being used internationally, despite mented that the Ancient Greeks despised the and the Treskavec monastery. Man evski also border with Albania, is the countrys highest months. Mavrovo and Pelister both have Skopje fits many of the stereotypes of a
Greek intransigence. ancient Macedonians. released Dust in 2001, starring Joseph Fiennes peak. The Vardar River crosses the middle ski runs. All three are accessible by road contemporary Eastern European city.
Meanwhile, the countrys ethnic Albanian As for the Macedonians themselves? One and David Wenham. Its a Western linking the of the country, passing Skopje on its way (though not really by public transport), and Communist-era housing blocks dominate
minority was seeking better representation thing theyre sure of is that theyre Macedo- American frontier and the badlands of wild to the Aegean Sea near Thessaloniki. Lakes none require any permits from park officers. the skyline, public buildings are chunky behe-
on the political and cultural fronts, and tried nian. Most will accept that theyre of Slavic Macedonia at the turn of the 20th century. Ohrid and Prespa drain into the Adriatic The onus is on visitors to keep the parks as moths, and theres a certain greyness and
to set up an Albanian-speaking university origin, although some will argue black and via Albania. pristine as possible. griminess that pervades. However, scratch
in Tetovo in 1995. Since Macedonian was blue that theyre Slavicised descendents of the Music the surface and a different Skopje reveals it-
the only official language according to the ancient Macedonian people. The oldest form of Macedonian folk music Wildlife Environmental Issues self. Delicate minarets rise above the cobbled
countrys constitution, the authorities de- Like much of the Balkans, ethnicity rather involves the gajda (bagpipes). This instrument Macedonia belongs to the eastern Mediter- Lake Ohrids unique trout, known locally as lanes of the arija (Turkish bazaar), where
clared the university illegal and tried to close than nationhood defines peoples identities. is played solo or is accompanied by the tapan ranean and Euro-Siberian vegetation region letnica has nearly been fished to extinction, Orthodox churches sit alongside copper-
it down. Soon after, President Gligorov lost Local Albanians and Turks are never referred (two-sided drum), each side of which is played and is home to a large number of plant species and yet it is still served (illegally) at restau- domed bathhouses and historic Ottoman
an eye in an assassination attempt and ten- to (or refer to themselves) as Macedonian, with a different stick to obtain a different tone. in a relatively small geographical area. The rants throughout the country. Other problems trading inns.
sions increased. even if their families have lived in the area for These are often augmented by kaval (flute) high mountains are dominated by pines, with include illegal logging, hunting and dumping The Vardar is no sluggish stream. It rages
Over the following years, an Albanian several generations. and/or tambura (small lute with two pairs of beech and oak on the lower slopes. of waste. Nonbiodegradable litter is a major between the old and new halves of the city
rebel group called the National Liberation According to the 2002 census the total strings). Macedonia has also inherited (from Macedonia is a boundary area between two eyesore, particularly in the west of the coun- a fitting symbol of the Muslim and Ortho-
Army was formed and claimed responsibil- population of just over two million is made up a long period of Turkish influence) the zurla different zoological zones the high moun- try. Try to refuse unnecessary plastic carrier dox divide spanned by the elegant arches
ity for a number of bombings. This esca- of Macedonians of Slav ethnicity (64%), Al- (double-reed horn), and the algija music tain region and the low Mediterranean valley bags in shops. of the Kamen Most (Stone Bridge). On the wines. Likewise, history buffs and art-lovers with its giant illuminated cross, rises to the
lated in February 2001 into armed conflict banians (25.2%), Turks (3.9%), Roma (2.7%), form. Bands playing folk music may be heard region. The fauna of the forests is abundant south side, stylish bars and cafs buzz with a will find their palates well served. south.
in western Macedonia. Hostilities did not Serbs (1.8%), and others such as Vlachs, Bos- and enjoyed at festivals such as the Balkan and includes bears, wild boar, wolves, foxes, FOOD & DRINK fashion-conscious young crowd, undisturbed
last long, however. With the signing of the niaks and Bulgarians (2.4%). Festival of Folk Dances & Songs in Ohrid in squirrels, chamois and deer. The lynx is found, If one word sums up Macedonian cuisine, by the English stag-partiers currently plagu- ORIENTATION INFORMATION
Ohrid Framework Agreement in August Relations between Albanians and Macedo- early July, or the Ilinden Festival in Bitola in although very rarely, in the mountains of its skara (barbecue). Pork, chicken or lamb ing other European capitals. Foodies wont Skopje is centred around the large square Bookshops
2001, the Macedonian government agreed nians can be problematic. Other predominately early August. western Macedonia. Forest birds include the Macedonians are mad on meat. Vegetar- be disappointed by the traditional cuisine Plotad Makedonija on the south bank of the Tabernakul (%3115 329; Dimitrie upovski 4) In the back
to greater political participation for the Al- Islamic ethnic groups tend to get lumped in Roma bands are another musical treat in blackcap, grouse, black grouse, imperial eagle ians shouldnt get overly excited by all the on offer in a number of atmospheric little Vardar River. The train and bus station is a right-hand corner youll find a small collection of Macedonian
banian minority, official recognition of the with the Albanians except the Roma who are Macedonia. One of the most popular Roma and forest owl. stuffed vegetables and vine leaves on the eateries, nor the selection of excellent local 15-minute walk southeast. Mount Vodno, books in English as well as other English-language titles.
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agency for off-the-beaten-track tours of any sort, including garden with a fountain and an earthquake- Sveti Pantelejmon monastery (%3081 255; h9am- Tims Apartments (%3237 650; www.tims.com.mk; Destan (Bunjakovec Centar, Bul Partizanski Odredi; 6 seem to encourage couples to pair up in the the carpark end, but youll find more interest-
SKOPJE IN TWO DAYS eco- and village-tourism, hiking, biking, caving, wining cracked dome. The ruins of the Kale, across 11pm) with its sweet little 12th-century church Ul Orce Nikolov 120; s/d 69/89, ste 86-128; a) This pieces of kebaps 90MKD) Situated at the back of the cosy corners of this groovy bar. ing memorabilia at the stall selling socialist
Cross Kamen Most to spend the day explor- and dining. the street from the mosque, has panoramic and excellent traditional restaurant (meals handsome apartment-hotel has a range of shopping centre on the ground floor, Destan New Age Coffee & Tea House (%3117 559; Kosta medals near the opposite entrance. Check out
ing the arija, taking in the Museum of views of Skopje from the 11th century Cyclo- 400MKD). rooms, self-catering apartments and two- serves kebaps (barbequed meat rolls) with ahov 9) This bohemian hipster haunt is like a Ikona (%3224 403) on the ground floor of Ram-
Macedonia ( right), the converted Turkish SIGHTS pean wall. bedroom residences on a quiet street in an delicious grilled Turkish bread, raw onion farmhouse, with dogs and roosters roaming store for beautiful hand-painted icons.
bathhouses, churches, mosques and the From Plotad Makedonija the 15th-century The tiny monastery Sveti Spas (admission SLEEPING inner suburb. and hot peppers. around the yard out front. Its rumoured that
castle before stopping for a bite at Pivnica Kamen Most spans the river and leads to the 100MKD; h9am-5pm Tue-Fri, to 3pm Sat & Sun) was Skopjes hotels are geared towards visitors Skopski Merak (%3090 755; Ul Andon Dukov 27; s/d Harmonija (%2460 985; Bul Jane Sandanski 37; mains aside from the generally alternative clientele, GET TING THERE & AWAY
An ( p478). On day two head for Lake Matka arija, the historic Ottoman quarter, domi- built below ground level because during Ot- from charge-account land business travel- 70/100; ai) Situated above a popular fish 100-250MKD; h8am-12pm Sun-Fri, 8am-1am Sat) This this is also a gay and lesbian hangout. Air
( p480) outside Skopje for hiking, climbing nated by mosques and populated mainly by toman times it was illegal for a church to be lers and those from organisations trying to restaurant, this snug family-run hotel has hard-to-find restaurant provides a full menu Blue Caf Urban Bar (%3123 355; Ul Veljko Vlahovi A host of airlines serve Skopjes Petrovec air-
or just plain relaxing by the smooth mir- Albanian Muslims. Not far from the bridge is taller than a mosque. It boasts an iconostasis resolve the mess in neighbouring Kosovo. 15 spotless rooms and a separate apartment of fantastic vegetarian food including a won- 4 2/3; n) A truly stylish, modern bar with fab port (%3148 333; www.airports.com.mk), 21km east
ror of the lake. Spend the afternoon caf- the cute 19th-century church of Sveti Dimitrija 10m wide and 6m high, beautifully carved in Hence theres no shortage of pricey establish- nearby. In winter theres an open fire lit in the derful macrobiotic platter. Its located in the cocktails and a large selection of special cof- of the city.
hopping around the new town, finishing up (%3232 919; h6am-10pm). the early 19th century. Look for the carvers ments, but cheaper options for tourists are central atrium. Skopjanka mall, a motley collection of run- fees and teas. It may be cheaper to fly into Thessaloniki in
at Kaj Maralot ( p478) for an unforgettable Across from it is the Daut Pain Amam (1466), miniature self-portrait in the left side of the more limited. down shops a block east of the station, on the Caf Deus (%3135 415; Ul Leninova 22) Cosy, northern Greece; try to coordinate the flight
dinner. once the largest Turkish bathhouse in the carving. Across the cloister is a room with the Top End left past the first street. The restaurants yellow smoky and atmospheric, Deus does a good times with the two to three daily trains that
Balkans, and now home to the National Gallery Tomb and Museum of Goce Del ev, independence Budget Hotel Stone Bridge (%3244 900; www.stonebridge sign points down a set of stairs that juts out impersonation of a Parisian caf, with dark connect Thessaloniki with Skopje.
(%3133 102; Kruevska 1A; adult/concession 50/20MKD, campaigner and national hero, killed by the Hotel Santos (%3226 963; Ul Bitpazarska 69; s/d 20/25) -hotel.com; Kej Dimitar Vlahov 1; s 129-189, d 149-229, into the footpath next to a florist. wood furnishings and little tables adorned
Internet Access free Sun; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun Oct-Mar, to 9pm Apr-Sep). Ottomans in 1903. With refurbished rooms complete with TV ste 299-549; pasw) From the beauti- Pivnica An (%3212 111; Kapan An, arija; mains 170- with roses. Bus
Contact Caf (%3298 023; 1st fl, Gradski Trgovski Housing some excellent modern art and Back on the south side of the bridge, a hefty sets and clean bathrooms, this is the nicest of ful white marble Turkish bath to the lav- 400MKD) Marvellous Macedonian food and a Trend (%3132 425; Ul Nikola Vapcarov 2/4) The Skopjes New Intercity Bus Station (Nova Avtobuska
Centar; per hr 120MKD; h9am-midnight Mon-Fri, 10am- a small collection of icons dating back to bronze commemorates the liberation of Skopje the cheap hotels among the evocative cobbled ishly upholstered furniture, you can tell great atmosphere, located in a historic Otto- name says it all. This combination restaurant, Stanica; %3236 254) is underneath the train
midnight Sat, 3-10pm Sun) This is the best, fastest and the 14th century, the building is lit by star- by the partisans, with chisel-jawed men, scary laneways of the arija. Its set back from that these newcomers take luxury seriously. man trading inn. caf and cocktail bar with a nightclub down- station on bul Jane Sandanski. There is a
most central of the numerous internet cafs around town. shaped holes in the brickwork of the beautiful mommas in headscarves and heroic children, Bitpazarska in its own little laneway near the Visiting royalty or rappers would feel quite Dalma (%070-260 410; Ul Petar Poparsov 22; mains 160- stairs is the current place to be seen. comprehensive network to all Macedonian
copper-clad domes. all sporting serious weaponry. corner of Ulica Evlija elebi. at home among all the gilt in the Apart- 450MKD) Offers beautiful Mediterranean cuisine towns, with at least 13 buses daily to Prilep
Laundry Nearby, the ifte Amam (%3227 986; Bitpa- The crazy insect-like building across the Hotel 903ta (%3211 345; Ul Nikola Trimpare 9; s/d ment Sultan. Ordinary mortals will find the in the most stylish of surroundings. ENTERTAINMENT (320MKD, 2 hours, 139km), seven to Bitola
Drycleaning Nino (%3222 446; Ivo Ribar Lola 59; zarska bb; admission 50MKD, free Sun; h10am-6pm boulevard is the citys main post office (oppo- 30/50) This little family-owned hotel, right in standard rooms luxurious and the location Momir (%3211 011; Bul Ivo Ribar Lola 79; mains For up-to-date info on clubs and special events, (350MKD, 2 hours, 185km), 21 to Tetovo
h8am-10pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat) Washing and drying Tue-Sun Oct-Mar, to 9pm Apr-Sep) another beautiful site). It was designed during the Yugoslav era the midst of a lively neighbourhood, offers is perfect. 450MKD) This is a great fish restaurant where check out www.skopjeclubbing.com.mk. (100MKD, 40 minutes, 42km), three to Ma-
per pair underwear/socks 10MKD, per T-shirt 50MKD. old bathhouse, is now used for temporary to be an abstract take on church architecture. two spacious apartments with leather couches, Holiday Inn (%3292 929; www.holiday-inn.com/sko you can try specialities such as squid stuffed Universal Hall (%3224 158; Bul Partizanski Odredi vrovi Anovi (270MKD, 1 hours, 88km),
exhibitions. Enter from the river side to check out the so- two rooms with their own bathroom and two pje; Ul Vasil Adzilarski 2; s 224-251, d 238-285, ste 317- with yellow cheese and ham. bb; tickets 100-200MKD) The home to classical and 10 to Ohrid via Ki evo (380MKD, three
Medical Services Just up the hill the Museum of Macedonia cialist murals in the large circular main hall. that share. Its clean and comfortable and very 500; pnaw) A conveniently located Vodenica (%3232 877; Bul Ivo Ribar Lola 69; mains 300- other music performances, as well as Skopjes hours, 167km) and four to Ohrid via Bitola
City Hospital (%3130 111; Ul 11 Oktomvri 53; (%3116 044; ur iska bb; admission 50MKD; h9am-3pm The massive modern church of Sveti Kliment newly renovated. business-class establishment next to the 650MKD) The food is excellent in this upmarket jazz festival in October every year. (380MKD, four hours, 261km).
h24hr) Tue-Sun) is a fascinating place to while away a Ohridski (%3237 218; Bul Sveti Kliment Ohridski bb) does Hotel Kanet (%3238 353; www.hotelkanet.com.mk; Gradski Trgovski Centar on the south side Italian eatery, which takes its name from the Childrens Theatre (%3290 111; Ul Evliya elebi 4; International buses either leave from here
Neuromedica Private Clinic (%3133 313; Ul 11 few hours. Reflecting the depth of culture in a good impersonation of a mosque, with its Ul Jordan Hadikonstantinov Dinot 20; s/d 45/60; pa) of the Vardar, this is the only hotel in Sko- waterwheel in its romantic garden. tickets 1) This cute little theatre in the arija or from International Bus Station 2, along
Oktomvri 25; h24hr) this ancient land, the earliest exhibits date large interlocking domes and freestanding The varnished wood and park-side setting is pje to have a specially designed wheelchair- puts on musicals and puppet shows for the from the Holiday Inn on Kej 13 Noemvri,
back 7500 years to the Neolithic period. Keep bell tower. more redolent of a mountain cabin than an accessible room. DRINKING little uns. where there are offices for several private lines.
Money your eyes open for a phallus-spouted drink- South of the centre, the only interesting inner-city hotel. The rooms are spotless and Skopje has a lively enough bar-caf scene to Kino Kultura (%3236 578; Ul Luj Paster 2; tickets To catch a direct bus to Tirana in Albania you
Skopje has numerous ATMs and many priv- ing vessel that set the standard for joke shops thing about the City Museum (%3114 742; MH comfy, and the large covered terrace is a great EATING suit any taste. Explore around the Gradski 60-120MKD) Screens recent English-language will first need to head to Tetovo.
ate exchange offices scattered throughout the for millennia. Jasmin Mito Ha ivasilev bb; admission free; h9am-5pm spot to soak up the park vibe. There are a surprising number of great eating Trgovski Centar and neighbouring riverside movies.
city centre where you can change your cash Beyond the museum, the exquisite 1492 Tue-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun) is its partly-ruined exterior. options in Skopje. The arija is littered with promenade, where there are dozens of estab- Caf Duomo (%3127 300; Bul Ivo Ribar Lola 67; Train
at a good rate. Mustafa Paa Mosque (Samoilova bb) has a shady The clock is frozen at 5.17 on the morning of Midrange affordable kebapci places and bakeries, and lishments ranging from stylish cocktail bars h10pm-4am Sun-Thu, 10pm-5am Fri & Sat) Dance the Skopjes ageing train station (%3234 255; Bul Jane
the tragic Skopje earthquake of 27 July 1963, Hotel Dal Met Fu (%3239 584; www.dalmetfu.com.mk; you can find fresh produce at its large open to the ubiquitous Irish boozer. night away in this upmarket late-night bar, Sandanski) serves both domestic and interna-
Post & Telephone which killed 1066 people and almost demol- Plotad Makedonija; s 59-69, d 69-79, apt s 85-145, apt market. Also check out the impressive new Lezet (%3225 003; Ul Nikola Trimpare bb) The soft which hosts live music and cabaret. tional routes. For details on international
Main post office (%3141 141; Ul Dame Gruev bb; STREET ADDRESSES ished the city. On the left is Titos message of d 100-170; pai) Positioned on the main supermarket in the Ramstore (opposite). lighting, chilled music and harem furnishings Colosseum (City Park; www.colosseumsummerclub.com; trains, see p491. The most useful domestic
h7am-5.30pm) Located 75m northwest of Plotad Finding your way around can be confus- support to the shattered citizens. Go around square, this bright and cheerful minihotel special events 250-400MKD) and Element (City Park; www route for tourists goes through Veles and on
Makedonija, along the river. ing. All of the street signs are in Cyrillic to the back for a strange mix of decaying shops (three rooms and three apartments) is above .element.com.mk) in the city park are the places to Prilep and Bitola (four trains daily, some
Telephone centre (%3141 141; Ul Dame Gruev bb; and bars amid abandoned railway carriages the overrated restaurant of the same name. AUTHORS CHOICE for summer outdoor clubbers and interna- at ghastly hours). A little Cyrillic will be use-
and many addresses are listed as bb, which
h7am-10pm) Inside the main post office. You can also stands for bez broja (without a number). Fol- and artillery. It has nicely designed rooms with a fashion- Restaurant Kaj Maralot (Bul Sveti Kliment Ohridski bb; mains 100-500MKD) A life-size cardboard cutout tional DJs. ful to make sense of the timetables, so come
phone from kiosks (newsagents) with private telephones. lowing independence a number of street A 2.5m bronze statue of Mother Teresa stands able edge, friendly staff and a location that is of Tito cheerily raises his glass as you enter this bizarre socialist-themed restaurant where, accord- prepared with your phrasebook.
The price of your call is displayed digitally as you speak. names were officially changed, but nobody sentinel at the entrance to a small square, not unbeatably central. ing to the advertising, proletarians as well as the capitalists feel the equality of the transition. SHOPPING
got around to changing the signs and the far from the now-demolished house where she Hotel Rose Diplomatique (%3135 469; rosediplo Among the communist posters and busts, our leading English-speaking revolutionaries Bob Marley The arija teems with little shops that sell GET TING AROUND
Travel Agencies locals tend to stick to the old ones anyway. was raised. Her simple Memorial Room (%070- matique.tripod.com; Ul Roza Luksemburg 13; s 65-85, d 85- and John Lennon smile down benignly, exhorting us simultaneously to Get Up Stand Up and souvenirs such as copper coffee pots and rugs. To/From the Airport
Frama (%3115 124; www.frama.com.mk; 1st fl Gradski In this book weve followed their lead using 704 894; Ul Maral Tito; admission free; h1-4pm) is in the 105) This boutique B&B has eight charming Let It Be. Surely imagine no possessions would be a more appropriate slogan for the latter, The two main shopping malls, Gradski Trgov- There is no public transport from the air-
Trgovski Centar) Flight prices are listed in euro on a board Ulica Maral Tito rather than Ulica Make- base of an 18th-century feudal tower. A superb rooms, caring staff and a cute garden. The especially given that McCartney was responsible for the laid-back lyric theyve chosen. Theres ski Centar (Plotad Makedonija; h9am-7pm; p) and port. Airport taxi drivers can charge between
by the door of this large central agency with an English- donija, and Bulevar Ivo Ribar Lola instead socialist relief fronts the Army House to the dcor has a gentle feminine touch (lots of no such confusion with the food, which is wonderfully authentic Macedonian fare. Order a bottle the flash new Ramstore (MH Jasmin Mito Ha ivasilev 1290MKD and 2200MKD, though the fare
speaking staff. of the long-winded Bulevar Mitropolit right of the tower. frills and ornaments) and breakfast includes of excellent local wine along with a mixed platter of yummy breaded olives, vine leaves stuffed bb; h10am-10pm; p), are full of fashion kids shouldnt be more than 700MKD. Its best to
Go Macedonia Alternative Travel (%3071 265; Teodosie Gologanov. For a great view of the city, take the 20- delicious homemade jams on a well-laden with mince and the supersharp local yellow cheese. cruising the boutiques, bars and cafs. The arrange a taxi through your hotel before you
www.gomacedonia.com; Ul Ankarska 29a) The best minute taxi ride up Mount Vodno to the buffet table. former has a small souvenir kiosk just inside arrive, although even then be aware that some
 WE ST ER N M A CE DONI A M avr o vo Nat ional Par k ww w.lo nely pla net.co m Book accommodation
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hotels may try to bump up the price. Only use Sights & Activities a large restaurant with an open fire, a bar (of TOURIST INFORMATION & houses the remains of St Clement. Nearby, the
taxis that have the official taxi sign. WORTH A TRIP The Zare Lazarevski ski centre (%042-489 002; www course), plus a swimming pool, fitness centre TRAVEL AGENCIES ruins of a 5th-century basilica and 4th-century
Wandering around the ruins of ancient .zarelaz.com; Mavrovo village; ski pass per day 850MKD, ski and sauna. The more expensive rooms have Theres no official tourist office, but there are church have their intricate mosaics uncovered
Bus Stobi in its pleasant rural setting, its easy to hire 600MKD) is Macedonias biggest and most Jacuzzis. The Bistra also runs the nearby Hotel many travel agencies around the bus station in the summer months from the layer of sand
Skopje is easily explored on foot and taxis get whisked away to a world of swords, san- modern ski resort, and by all accounts the Ski kola and Hotel Mavrovski, which offer that can provide information and arrange that preserves them. One of the mosaics shows
are cheap, so chances are you wont need to dals and rustling togas. The ghosts of roads skiing is very good, lasting from 15 November simpler rooms at a cheaper price, while still private accommodation and tours. a swastika an old Indo-Aryan sun symbol
brave the bus system. Inner-suburban city lead you to the theatre, basilica, palaces, until as late as the middle of April. Compared having access to the main hotels facilities. Otex Tours (%261 244; biteli@yahoo.com; Ul Parti- long before the Nazis appropriated it.
buses in Skopje cost between 15MKD and villas and a synagogue. While the site dates with other European resorts its dirt cheap, zanska bb) The emphatically restored 10th-century
30MKD per trip. back to the Macedonian kingdom of the 4th but it doesnt offer a huge amount of aprs-ski Getting There & Away Samoils Fortress (admission 30MKD; h9am-4pm), on
century BC, most of the remains are Roman activity. The ski lifts operate all year (200MKD Buses dont go directly to Mavrovo village Sights the towns heights, is most interesting from a
Car or Byzantine. Elaborate mosaics are uncov- for nonskiers) and in summer you can hire but pass through the town of Mavrovo Anovi Most of Ohrids churches charge an entry distance, but there are splendid views from
Skopje is awash with car-rental agencies, from ered from their protective sand from April mountain bikes for 10. The whole operation on the other side of the lake. There are seven fee of 100MKD. If not, it is customary to the crenulated walls and towers.
the large ones to small local companies. Rental to September. Prepare to pay 200MKD for is run from the Hotel Bistra (see below). buses a day to Debar (120MKD, 46km), five to leave some money at the icons; this contrib- Down the hill, Ohrids Amphitheatre was
prices generally start at around 35 per day. Try entry, although the gate is often unstaffed. Sveti Jovan Bigorski (%042-478 675; bigorski@mt Tetovo (140MKD, 45km), and three to Skopje utes towards preserving these historical sites. built around the time of the birth of Christ,
Avis (%3222 046; lower ground, Ramstore; h9am-5pm). To get there take Hwy E75 to the southeast .net.mk; admission free) is a fully working monastery (270MKD, 1 to 2 hours depending on Winter opening hours seem to depend on and wasnt fully uncovered until 1984. It was
Parking is a cultural experience of its own and youll see it signposted, just after the and one of the most popular with visitors in conditions, 88km). For Sveti Jovan Bigorski how cold it is. originally used for plays and oratory, but in
people park anywhere, including the strip in Prilep turnoff, 25km southeast of Veles. Macedonia. It was first established in 1020 take the bus to Debar and ask to be let off at A gnarled 900-year-old plane tree (Ul Sveti Kli- the late Roman era the first 10 rows were
the middle of the road. on the spot where the icon of Sveti Jovan the turnoff to the monastery. From here it is ment Ohridski) lies in the heart of Ottoman Ohrid. pulled out and replaced with a wall to convert
Bigorski (St John the Forerunner, eg St John a steep 500m climb to the complex. It has apparently housed a caf and a barber it into an arena for bloodsports.
Taxi If you are stranded, its a long and difficult the Baptist) appeared, and has been rebuilt shop at different points in its long life. Continue towards the Upper Gate (Gorna
Skopjes taxis are cheap and excellent, once
you get past the shysters at the airport. All
official taxis have meters, which are turned on
three-hour hike from here to Skopje, via Mt
Vodno.
Back along the road is the peaceful Mon-
many times over the centuries. The miracu-
lous icon kept reappearing and the mon-
astery kept being resurrected. The present
SOUTHERN MACEDONIA Enter the old town through the remains of
the Lower Gate (Ul Car Samoil). Ohrids fortifica-
tions date back to the Roman period, although
Porta) to the gorgeous 13th-century Sveta
Bogorodica Perivlepta (Sveti Kliment; admission 100MKD;
h10am-3pm), adorned inside with vivid
without prompting. The first few kilometres astery of Sveta Bogorodica (h10am-noon & 5-7pm day structures date from the 18th and 19th OHRID they were reconstructed in the Middle Ages. frescoes.
are a flat 50MKD, and then its 15MKD per Tue & Thu, all day Sat & Sun). From here the hardy centuries, and houses one of the three icon- %046 / pop 55,700 They completely enclosed the town until the
kilometre. Watch out for the unofficial driv- can follow a steep path for 90 minutes to the ostases carved by Makarije Fr kovski and the The highlight of any trip to Macedonia, Ottoman invasion of 1395, when the centre of Festivals & Events
ers who hang around the train-bus station. little churches of Sv Spas, Trojica and Nedala. Filipovski brothers, who also carved the one Ohrid is a place of dramatic beauty, steeped civic life moved to the bazaar that sprung up The five-day Balkan Festival of Folk Dances
Theyll try to load your bags into their boot Just below the monastery, Manastirski Petera in Sveti Spas in Skopje. The monastery has in history and culture. The crystalline waters on the flat land outside the ramparts. & Songs, held at Ohrid in early July, draws
before you notice they dont have a taxi sign, (%3352 512; mains 170-700MKD) is an atmospheric dormitories (5 to 15) with self-catering of the lake and plentiful budget accommo- The small 14th-century churches of Sveta folkloric groups from around the Balkans. The
and then overcharge you for an unmetered restaurant serving all manner of game, built facilities where you can stay overnight, as dation make it a magnet for summer holi- Bogorodica Bolni ka and Sveti Nikola Bolni ki Ohrid Summer Festival (www.ohridsummer.com.mk),
trip. into the hillside in a dimly lit cave. well as a little shop selling painted icons and daymakers, turning this sleepy little place, (h9am-2pm 5-7pm) were originally hospital held from mid-July to mid-August, features
A taxi to Lake Matka shouldnt cost more Mastika, the aniseed-flavoured rakija made with its evocative cobbled laneways peppered churches, where people were quarantined classical concerts in the Sveta Sofija church,
AROUND SKOPJE than 350MKD, or you can take your chances by the monks. with picturesque churches, into a vibrant during times of plague before being allowed open-air theatre and many other events. An
Lake Matka A on bus 60 (50MKD, 40 minutes), which leaves The old Vlach village of Gali nik lies deep party town. to enter the town. international poetry festival, replete with food
Only half an hours drive from Skopje, Matka somewhat erratically from Bulevar Partizanski within the park, about 17km from Mavrovo. For Orthodox Macedonians it is the spir- On Ulica Car Samoil, the National Museum and drink in the streets, is held annually in
is a place of calm cool nature, where the steep Odredi. The road to Gali nik from Mavrovo is often itual heart of their country and a focus of na- (%267 173; Ul Car Samoil 62; adult/student 100/50MKD; nearby Struga in the second half of August.
canyon reflects in the lakes green mirrored snowed-in as late as May and closes as early tionalistic pride. It was here that Sts Clement h9am-2pm Tue-Sun) is an Ottoman-era house Ohrid hosts a swimming marathon (www.pfm
surface. For centuries the area has been a re-
treat from society, attracting hermits, monks
and early Macedonian revolutionaries. Now
WESTERN MACEDONIA as November. The village hosts a very popular
wedding festival in the middle of July. The
bridal costumes weigh up to 30kg! The festival
and Naum in the 9th century founded the first
Slavic university. Later Ohrid was the capital
of the 10th-century kingdom of Tsar Samoil,
from present-day Albanias port of Durrs
to Istanbul in Turkey.
60MKD; h9am-2am) Offers the best and fastest internet
access as well as super cheap international phone calls.
with exquisite carved ceilings and amazing
views over the lake. It is the star exhibit in its
own collection of Ohrids archaeological and
.org.mk) each summer, when swimmers race the
30km across Lake Ohrid from Sveti Naum. A
briefer but no less gruelling endurance event
the lake, created by the damming of the Treka MAVROVO NATIONAL PARK is rich in traditions, with lots of dances, folk with its bishop an independent Patriarch. The lakes mountainous fringes include ethnographic relics. is held on the feast of the Epiphany (January
River, is a magnet for day-trippers and ac- MABPOBO A OHA H AP musicand a few tears. The revival of the archbishopric of Ohrid in the Gali ica National Park, on the way to the MEDICAL SERVICES The grandiose 11th-century Sveta Sofija 19), when young men compete for the honour
tion-seekers, with opportunities for kayaking, %042 1958, and its independence from the Serbian marvellous monastery of Sveti Naum, 29km Itna Medicinska Sluba (%266 217; Dimitar Vlahov (admission 100MKD; h10am-noon & 5-8pm Tue-Sun, 9am- of retrieving a golden cross thrown into the
hiking, rock climbing and caving. Along with the countrys best skiing facilities, Sleeping & Eating Orthodox Church in 1967, were important south towards the Albanian border. bb; h24hr) Accident and Emergency clinic, at the back 3pm winter) was originally built as a cathedral. icy lake by the archbishop.
The lakeside path starts at the end of the Mavrovo National Park offers 73,088 hectares Hotel Srna (%042-388 083; www.hotelsrna.cjb.net; steps on the road to modern nationhood. left side of the Ambulanta Malariena building. The frescoes are extremely well preserved
road. Follow it to see the 14th-century Sveti of birch and pine forest, lake, karst fields, Mavrovo village; s/d/tr 42/60/75; p) A friendly lit- However its history goes back much fur- Orientation thanks to having been whitewashed during Sleeping
Andrea monastery, with its impressive frescoes. waterfalls and alpine plain to be explored. It tle hotel, 400m from the chairlifts, Srna has ther than that. The tectonic lake itself is The Old Town of Ohrid is easy to get around MONEY the churchs days as a mosque. BUDGET
Next door is the very basic Matka Mountain contains cultural treasures and quite a few spotless airy rooms (some with balconies), one of the oldest in the world and at 294m on foot. The lake is to the south, and the pic- There are several ATMs and banks around Sveti Jovan at Kaneo (Ul Ko o Racin) is a breath- Everyone in Ohrid seems to have a room to
Hut (%3052 655; beds 7), where in summer you mountain villages, including Gali nik with a cheerful bar and a restaurant with lots of is the deepest in the Balkans. The area has turesque Old Town descends from Samoils Bulevar Makedonski Prosvetiteli and Ulica takingly beautiful little 13th-century church rent (5 to 15 per person), and if youre arriv-
can spend the night or hire guides. The staff its famous July wedding festival. Accommo- antlers and pelts. Half-board costs an extra been settled for 8000 years, while the town Fortress on the hill to the west. Sveti Kliment Ohridski. perched on the cliffs, and provides the perfect ing in season youll probably be approached
operate a small boat across the lake where it is dation is mostly in the ski village of Mavrovo 5 per person. was first mentioned under the Greek name foreground to the most iconic view of the by someone at the bus station. Otherwise they
a 15-minute climb to Matkas most beautiful on the southern side of the lake and public Hotel Bistra (%042-489 027; www.bistra.com; Mav- Lychnidos, before being conquered by the Information POST & TELEPHONE lake. can be organised in advance through local
church, Sveti ievo. You will need to bang on transport is limited, but in all but the depths rovo village; 15 Apr-15 Nov s 45-65, d 75-100, 16 Nov14 Apr Ancient Macedonians in the 4th century INTERNET ACCESS Post office (Bul Makedonski Prosvetiteli). You can also Ohrids main church, Sveti Kliment i Pantelej- agencies such as Otex Tours (see left).
the metal to get the boat to collect you, but of winter its a cinch to get around with your s 90-115, d 120-160; ps) This sprawling resort BC. Under the Romans it became a stop- Sky Net Internet Caf (%258 381; skynet@mt.net change money here. There is a wall of payphones right mon (Ul Kuzman Kapidan), is newly built on the Villa Lucija (%265 608; lucija@mt.net.mk; Ul Kosta Abra
let them know your return time in advance. own wheels. hotel has comfortable rooms with satellite TV, ping point on the Via Egnatia, which ran .mk; 1st fl, TC Amam, Ul Sveti Kliment Ohridski; per hr outside. frescoed foundations of an earlier church. It 29; s/d/tr/q 15/25/30/35) The best of the private
 SOUT H ERN MA CEDO NI A Ohr id Book accommodation online
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accommodation on offer, right in the centre of Restaurant Antiko (%265 523; Ul Car Samoil 30; mains the bus station (%262 490; Ul Dimitar Vlahov). Enter GETTING THERE & AWAY flowers, but more surprising is the bronze The Ilinden Festival, the most important
the Old Town, Villa Lucijas rooms are clean from 350MKD) Built into the ancient city gate, this through the back doors and pay the conduc- Four buses a day run from Ohrid to Sveti Partisan memorial erected in Goce Del ev event of the year, takes place on 2 August, and WORTH A TRIP
and spacious, balconies overlook the lake, and is the best place for traditional Macedonian tor (30MKD). Naum (80MKD, 50 minutes, 29km, four square as recently as 2004. celebrates the uprising against the Ottomans The remote and magnificent Treskavec Monastery, 10km to the north of Prilep on the top of
the patio is right on the water for a swim. food. Beware it is rather pricey and local About 10 buses a day run between Ohrid daily). The bus continues on to the Albanian Follow the signs in the park to the fascinat- with traditional food, music and general joy. rocky Mt Zlato, can only be reached by a two-hour climb or by 4WD up a muddy mountain
Apartments Kosta (%267 243; vilakosta@gmail.com; specialities need to be ordered up to three and Skopje via Ki evo (380MKD, three hours, border before heading back. A taxi will get you ing ruins of Heraclea Lyncestis (admission 100MKD, track, weather permitting. Take a taxi to Dabnica village and ask the driver to point you at the
Ul Car Samoil 26; s/d/tr/q 15/25/30/45) The Kostas have hours in advance. 167km). Another four go via Bitola (380MKD, there in 35 minutes and set you back 10. photos 500MKD; h9am-3pm Nov-Apr, 9am-5pm May-Oct). Sleeping & Eating cobbled track leading up the mountain. Go up the road, and after you reach the water fountain,
gone all out to provide little extra comforts Terrazza Aquarius (%252 625; Ul Kosta Abra 30) four hours, 261km). The first route is shorter, In summer you can also come by boat but it Founded in the 4th century BC by Philip Accommodation in the centre of Bitola is continue on the straight path. The monastery itself was rebuilt in the early 1990s after it was
for their budget guests, including slippers, In winter its a cosy bar, but in summer this faster and more scenic, so try to take it. There only leaves when a group of about five to eight II of Macedon, Heraclea was conquered by limited and overpriced. Better deals can be destroyed by a fire, and forms a sort of pentagon with a courtyard and 14-century church at its
hairdryers, good quality linen, free tea- and large lakeside terrace becomes party central, are at least six buses a day travelling to Bitola people is present; ask about times at the wharf the Romans two centuries later and became found in the villages on the road through centre, decorated with fine frescoes. Built on what was an ancient town, the site once housed
coffee-making facilities and use of the familys with its weekend hours extending until 3am. (170MKD, 1 hours, 71km). Three of these or at the travel agencies in town. The fare is an important stage on the Via Egnatia, the Pelister National Park, even allowing for the a temple to Apollo and Artemis. The monasterys guardians will welcome you, cook you dinner
laundry facilities and BBQ. Expect a big sound system, guest DJs and lots continue on to Belgrade (1500MKD, about about 150/200MKD one way/return. Roman road that connected ports on the cost of taxis to the centre. and let you sleep in the rooms for free. Beds and blankets are provided. Leave some money at
Argiroski Apartments (%262 844; Kej Maral Tito of cocktails. 12 hours, 692km). Adriatic with Byzantium. Excavations only Hotel umski Feneri (%047-293 030; sfeneri@mt the icons; how much is up to you, but we recommend at least 200MKD per person.
bb; apt 20-25) This modern block is set back Mezzoforte (Ul Car Samoil 8) A groovy young For Albania, catch a Sveti Naum bus to the BITOLA & PELISTER NATIONAL PARK started in 1936 and are continuing as money .net.mk; Trnovo village; s/d/tr 25/40/50, apt 60; p) This
from the main lakeside road, down a drive crowd populates this stylish Old Town bar, border crossing (80MKD, 50 minutes, 29km, E T P A OHA H allows, but the well-preserved theatre, baths, charming family-owned hotel lies on the lower
where it seems that all the neighbours have with vaulted brick ceilings, comfy sofas and four daily). From Albanian customs its 6km AP portico, two early Christian basilicas and the slopes of Mt Pelister in the village of Trnovo, Getting There & Away spectacular in any of the three national parks
rooms to rent. Sleeping three to four people chilled music. to Pogradec; taxis are waiting and should %047 episcopal palace are now visible. The sites 9km from the centre of Bitola (200MKD by The bus station (%047-391 391; Ul Nikola Tesla) and (Gali ica, Pelister and Mavrovo) and at Lake
at a squeeze, the apartments are sparkling and Duck Caf (%256 818; Kej Maral Tito 12) This large charge only 5 for the ride. Easily the most handsome and quite pos- 1300 sq metres of mosaics are protected by taxi) and 6km to the ski-field chairlifts. It has train station (%047-392 904; Ul Nikola Tesla) are ad- Matka (p480) near Skopje. Unsurprisingly,
new with self-catering facilities. booze barn hosts some great live bands from sibly the friendliest city in Macedonia, chilly sand (and often buried by snow) in the win- four apartments, which can fit four people, an jacent to each other, about 1km south of the Macedonia has a great tradition of mountain-
Thursday to Saturday, playing everything CAR Bitola sits on a 660m-high plateau at the foot ter, but they are uncovered from 1 May to 15 extraordinary number of potted plants and a town centre. There are seven buses daily to eering. The Macedonian Mountaineering Sports Fed-
MIDRANGE & TOP END from jazz to rock and blues. Theres a branch of Hertz (%261 237; Bul Turisti ka of Mt Pelister, just north of the Greek bor- October every year. large restaurant filled with unintentionally Skopje between 5am and 4.30pm (350MKD, eration (%02-3165 540; spsm@mt.net.mk) can put you
Hotel Riviera (%268 735; hotelriviera@mt.com.mk; Kej bb; h8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pm Sat) in Ohrid. der. Named Manastir under Ottoman rule, it Pelister National Park, only 10km from Bitola, hilarious art. Naomi Campbell and Joseph 2 hours, 185km), which also stop in Prilep in touch with guides throughout the county for
Maral Tito 4; s/d 31/48, ste 60-79; a) Step back Entertainment surpassed even Skopje as the most important covers 12,500 hectares of pine forest and the Fiennes have both stayed here. To get there (110MKD, 30 minutes, 46km). The train fol- alpine hikes, rock- or ice-climbing, as well as
into 1970s Yugoslavia. The dated dcor and Ohrids movie theatre and concert hall, Dom AROUND OHRID city in the region, with its prestigious military great granite dome of Mt Pelister (2601m). take the Pelister National Park road up the lows a similar route but takes four hours to hiring tents, cooking equipment and providing
crazy antique collection in the lobby are part Na Kultura (Ul Grigor Prli ev; admission 50-100MKD), faces Sveti Naum academy attracting the likes of a young Kemal The park protects some 88 species of trees, mountain towards Molika. reach its destination (four daily). There are at maps and details of mountain huts.
of this places love-it-or-hate-it charm. The the lakeside park. The magnificent grounds of the Sveti Naum Ataturk, the father of modern Turkey. Its past included the rare five-leafed Macedonian pine Hotel Molika (%047-229 406; www.hotelmolika.com least six buses to Ohrid, with more services in
three lakeside suites are wonderful for the monastery, near the Albanian border 29km prosperity has graced it with a fine central (Pinus peuce). There is a small ski slope (day .mk; Molika, Pelister National Park; s/d 32/46; pai) summer (170MKD, 1 hours, 71km). BOOKS
price, sleeping up to four people. Shopping south of Ohrid, are a real treat. The grounds promenade, Ulica Maral Tito, which is lined pass 300MKD), which usually operates from the Located at the foot of the chairlifts 1420m up To get to the Greek border, take a taxi from Lonely Planets Eastern Europe Phrasebook will
Vila Sveta Sofija (%254 368; www.vilasofija.com; Ul Antik Jewellers (%250 999; Ul Kosta Abra 13) Ohrid are patrolled by peacocks and contain the with 19th-century buildings including the beginning of December until early March. In Mt Pelister but only 15km from Bitola, this the bus station (6, 15 minutes, 15km) and then help you with the language. A decent back-
Kosta Abra 64; s/d 35/60, ste 80-120; a) Tucked into Pearls have been crafted by local families since source of Lake Ohrids water. The beauti- three remaining consulates Turkish, British summer you can hike to the crystal-clear lakes 56-room mountain lodge also offers full or order a taxi on the Greek side to the nearest ground book is Who Are the Macedonians?
the lower part of the old town, this converted the secret of fashioning pearl-like jewellery ful 17th-century Church of Sveti Naum (admission and French. In winter the temperatures can on top of the mountain, enjoying the views half-board to weary skiers and hikers. The town, Florina (12, 15 minutes, 17km). From by Hugh Poulton, a very readable political and
Ottoman house combines opulent traditional from fish bones was brought to Ohrid by 100MKD) rises on a hill above the lake, sur- reach minus 30C, but this doesnt stop the over Lake Prespa to the west. furnishings are faded but the rooms are fine, here it will take about three hours by bus and a cultural history. Also addressing the issue of
furnishings and old-world charm with space- Russian artisans fleeing the revolution. Un- rounded by the buildings of the Hotel Sveti locals strutting their stuff up and the down On the edge of the park is the rugged old with great views from the balconies at the little longer by train to reach Thessaloniki. Macedonian identity is Will Myers People Of
age bathroom design. The luxury suite is im- like the cheaper versions to be found in every Naum, which has taken over the historic this street or hanging out in its stylish bars Vlach village of Malovite. The village has been front. Theres a branch of Hertz (%047-237 087; Ul The Storm God: Travels In Macedonia. A Hitch-
possibly romantic and the food is wonderful. second shop on Ul Car Samoil, these are the monastery complex. and cafs. slowly losing its population for decades, but its Hotel De Niro (%047-229 656; www.hotel-deniro Kliment Ohridski 2; per day from 40) in town. hikers Guide to Macedoniaand my soul, by
This is the best boutique hotel in Macedonia. real deal. The original church of the Holy Archangels collection of two-storey stone houses is one of .com; Ul Kiril i Metodij 5; s/d 35/50, ste 80; ai) The Carol Maria Cho, is a laugh-out-loud funny
Information
Hotel Millenium Palace (%263 361; www.milleni
umpalace.com.mk; Kej Maral Tito bb; s/d 49/66, ste 99-124;
Atanas Talevski (%254 059; Ul Kosta Abra 19) A
wonderful photographer, whose intimate
was built in 900 by St Naum, and the saint
himself is buried here. They say that you can The local info source is the newly opened Tur-
ist Info Center (%241 641; Sterjo Georgiev 1; hMon-Fri
the finest ensembles of traditional architecture
in Macedonia. A little river burbles through the
location is perfect for this new little hotel,
around the corner from the consulates on MACEDONIA DIRECTORY journal, if a little self-indulgent in parts.

BUSINESS HOURS
pais) Its amazing to think that this studies of elderly villagers are astound- still hear his heartbeat if you put your ear on village, crossed by many quaint little bridges. Maral Tito and above a popular Italian res-
uber-80s monstrosity was built this millen- ingly good. With small prints only costing his tomb inside the chapel. The monastery 9am-4pm). For internet access we recommend The lanes are made of rough cobblestones taurant of the same name. The rooms are very ACCOMMODATION Businesses tend to stay open late in Macedo-
nium. Once you get past the aesthetics, the fa- 200MKD, they make brilliant gifts for art- grounds also offer a view of the Albanian town Internet Caffe Mouse (%047-241 194; Ul Maral Tito; sturdy footwear will help save your ankles. The clean but small, especially the single where City hotels are expensive, as they tend to cater nia. Travellers will generally find them open
cilities within are very good comfy beds, all minded friends. of Pogradec across the lake. In the summer per hr 30MKD). massive church of Sveti Petka (built in 1856) your shower looks out at the factory next to business and government travellers. In areas from 8am to 8pm weekdays and 8am to 2pm
mod cons, a small gym, sauna and an indoor months you can take a half-hour boat trip shows how wealthy the community had grown door via an upper-torso-revealing piece of where locals take their holidays, accommoda- on Saturday. In smaller centres they may close
swimming pool with a cocktail bar. The suites Getting There & Away from the monastery to the bubbling springs Sights & Activities through cattle breeding. The interior is full of unfrosted glass. tion is generally good and affordable, with for lunch from around 1pm, and reopen at
have terraces overlooking the lake. AIR that feed Lake Ohrid (1 to 5 per person Clustered around the Dragor River, the mag- frescoes and over 100 icons. About 2km from Hotel Epinal (%047-224 777; www.hotelepinal.com; plenty of private options. In Skopje youll be 4pm. Post offices open from 7am to 5.30pm
Ohrid airport (OHD; %252 820; www.airports.com.mk) depending on party size). nificent minarets of three 16th-century mosques the village, in the middle of a dense beech Ul Maral Tito bb; s 75-84, d 120-140; as) The only lucky to find a midrange single for less than 60 and banks from 7am to 5pm, Monday to Fri-
Eating & Drinking is served from only a handful of European pierce the sky. North of the river the citys forest, is the little church of Sveta Ana. It takes large hotel in the centre of Bitola, Epinal has per night, whereas in Ohrid there are plenty day. Restaurants, bars and cafs tend to open
Ohrid has a great selection of cafs and bars, cities Skopje (Macedonian), Belgrade (JAT), SLEEPING & EATING colourful old bazaar has about 6000 shops to about 30 minutes to hike there its 400m some great facilities such as an excellent under 40. Booking early is recommended for at 9am and close at midnight, extending to
many of which host live music. The quality of Ljubljana (Adria), Zurich (Helvetic and Mac- Hotel Sveti Naum (%046-283 080; www.hotel-stnaum explore. On the south side Sveti Dimitri (Ul 11 higher in altitude. Tradition has it that an acorn swimming pool and gym but the rooms visits during the summer season, Orthodox 1am on Friday and Saturday.
its restaurants is rather less impressive. edonian) and Vienna (Macedonian). A taxi .com.mk; s 44-50, d 70-80, apt 100-120; i) Stand- Oktomvri) boasts a large lavish interior with ex- taken from the tree here will bring you luck in are overpriced. Use of the air-conditioning Christmas (7 January) and Orthodox Easter.
Restoran Sveta Sofija (%267 403; Ul Car Samoil 88; to the airport, 7km north of Ohrid, costs ing at the heart of the monastery, this lovely quisite frescoes, ornate lamps, a huge iconos- love. Hotels in Bitola can arrange transport will set you back an extra 10 per person. DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
mains 160-690MKD) This classy bistro serves a wide 250MKD. hotel has magical views, excellent rooms with tasis and storm clouds covering the ceiling. to/from Malovite, with one hour at the village, The open-air caf under a wrought-iron roof ACTIVITIES In general, Macedonia is a safe and easygo-
range of Macedonian dishes. The view from satellite TV, phone, central heating and trad- As you wander down Ulica Maral Tito and for about 500MKD. Malovite is 4km off Hwy at the front of the hotel, on the other hand, There is great skiing at Mavrovo (p481), along ing country. Watch out for pickpockets in
the terrace onto the ancient church is the very BUS itional stylings. The hotel restaurant serves into the park youll notice the number of well- E65 between Bitola and Resen turn off at is an excellent spot for traditional Macedo- with less-developed facilities at Pelister (oppo- crowded areas, and taxi drivers charging
soul of Ohrid, made all the more evocative on Buses to Struga (14km) leave roughly every traditional Macedonian food (120MKD to tended socialist-realist statues of square-jawed Kazani, take the first left and then another left nian fare, especially fish (mains 300MKD to site) and Popova apka (1845m), 18km west of exorbitant fares from the airport. A more
the weekend when the folk band plays. 15 minutes (5am to 9pm) from stand 1 at 600MKD). partisans. Titos bust is rarely without fresh through a tunnel under the highway. 900MKD). Tetovo near the border with Kosovo. Hiking is specific annoyance can be the persistence
 Lonely Planet Publications
MAC EDO NI A DIR EC TOR Y Disa b l ed Trav ell e rs ww w.lo nely pla net.co m ww w.lo nely pla net. co m MA CE DONI A DI REC TO RY H ol id ays T RA NSP OR T I N M ACE DON I A G etti ng Ther e & Aw ay ww w.lo nely pla net. co m ww w. lo nely pla net. co m TRAN SP ORT I N MA CE DONI A G etting A r o und
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of young beggars, particularly around the Albania (%02-2614 636; ambshqip@mt.net.mk; Ul HT HOLIDAYS listed in, which is usually euro for hotels and global-roaming agreements with Macedonias Land seven hours, two daily on Monday, Wednesday local companies. The choices in Ohrid and
riverfront and square in Skopje, and at traffic Karpo 94a) New Year 1 & 2 January denar for other transactions. domestic network, so check before departing. Macedonia shares land borders with and Friday). From Ohrid you can catch a Sveti Bitola are more limited. Tourist brochures
lights. While they are unlikely to hurt you, Australia (%02-3061 114; austcon@mt.net.mk; Ul Orthodox Christmas 7 January Small private exchange offices throughout Fax services are available at the main post Greece, Albania, Bulgaria, Serbia and the Naum bus to the border (80MKD, 50 minutes, give comprehensive lists. A smallish sedan
it can be quite intimidating to have half a Londonska 11b) International Womens Day 8 March central Skopje and Ohrid exchange cash for a offices in Skopje and Ohrid. UN-monitored territory of Kosovo. Access 29km, four daily) and cross on foot. like a Ford Focus costs about 40 a day, in-
dozen rug rats hanging off every pocket for 15 Bulgaria (%02-3229 444; bgemb@mol.com.mk; Ul Ivo Orthodox Easter Week March/April rate that is only slightly better than at banks. to/from all neighbouring states is generally cluding insurance. You need to present your
minutes at a time, getting progressively more Ribar Lola 40) Labour Day 1 May ATMs can be found in all of the major towns VISAS trouble-free and unrestricted. CAR & MOTORCYCLE passport, driving licence and a credit card.
aggressive. Keep your hands firmly on your Canada (%02-3225 630; honcon@unet.com.mk; Bul Sts Cyril & Methodius Day 24 May and tourist centres but not in out-of-the-way Citizens of EU countries, Argentina, Barba- None of the border crossings should pose any You normally need to have held a full driving
valuables and walk quickly into the nearest Partizanska Odredi 17a) Ilinden or Day of the 1903 Rebellion 2 August places. Travellers cheques are a real hassle dos, Bosnia, Botswana, Croatia, Cuba, Ice- BORDER CROSSINGS particular problems. You will need a Green licence for one year.
caf or store if youre unable to shake them. Croatia (%02-3127 350; velhrskp@mpt.com.mk; Ul Ivo Republic Day 8 September to change and we advise against relying on land, Israel, Japan, New Zealand, Maldives, Albania Card endorsed for Macedonia to bring a car
Ribar Lola 44) Partisan Day 11 October them, except as a form of emergency back-up Norway, Switzerland and the USA dont need There are four border crossings with Albania into the country. For further information on INSURANCE
DISABLED TRAVELLERS France (%02-3244 300; www.ambafrance-mk.org; money. Credit cards are widely accepted, but visas for Macedonia and are allowed to stay the two main ones are on either side of Lake driving around Macedonia see below. Rental agencies provide insurance for around
Wheelchair accessibility in Macedonia is al- Ul Salvador Aljende 73); Bitola (%047-223 192; INTERNET ACCESS dont take it for granted, even at a hotel or res- for up to three months. Visas are required Ohrid (Kafa San/Qafa e Thans, 12km south- 15 to 25 a day, depending on the type of car,
most nonexistent. Few public buildings or fax 047-223 594; Ul Maral Tito 42) Bring your laptop Macedonias on its way taurant. Diners Club is surprisingly popular. for most others and cost 20 to 50 depend- west of Struga, and Sveti Naum/Tushmishti, TRAIN with a nonwaivable excess of 1000 to 2500.
hotels have ramps and only the very expen- Germany (%02-3093 900; dt.boskop@mol.com.mk; Ul to being the worlds first completely wireless ing on where you apply for it and whether 29km south of Ohrid). There are two smaller Trains from Skopje head to Belgrade via Ni Green Card insurance is accepted, and third-
sive Holiday Inn in Skopje has a specifically Lerinska 59) country. POST it is single- or multiple-entry. Even though ones at Blato, 5km northwest of Debar, and at (1209MKD, nine hours, two daily), Prish- party insurance is compulsory.
designed wheelchair-accessible room. There is Greece (%02-3219 260; grfyrom@unet.com.mk; Ul Mail services to/from Macedonia are efficient some visas can be obtained at the airport for Stenje on the western shore of Lake Prespa. tina (4, 2 hours, two daily), Podgorica via
no disabled access on public transport. Borka Taleski 6); Bitola (%047-238 310; fax 047-220 310; INTERNET RESOURCES and reasonably fast, although sending money some nationalities, it is much safer to apply Ni (2000MKD, 17 hours, daily), Zagreb ROAD RULES
Ul Tomaki Dimitrovski 43) Culture Republic of Macedonia (www.culture.in.mk) or valuables through normal post is not recom- in advance. The regulations change quite Bulgaria (2050MKD, 18 hours, daily) and Ljubljana Driving is on the right-hand side of the road.
EMBASSIES & CONSULATES Netherlands (%02-3129 319; www.nlembassy.org.mk; Exploring Macedonia (www.exploringmacedonia.com) mended as they may mysteriously disappear. frequently check www.mfa.gov.mk for the The main crossings are just east of Kriva (2690MKD, 20 hours, daily). Sleepers are Speed limits for cars and motorcycles are
Macedonian Embassies & Consulates Ul Leninova 69-71) Macedonia FAQ (faq.macedonia.org) Letters to the USA cost 38MKD, to Australia latest information. Palanka (between Sofia and Skopje), east of available. You can find timetables for inter- 120km/h on motorways, 80km/h on the open
A full list of Macedonian embassies abroad Serbia (%02-3129 298; yuamb@unet.com.mk; Ul Pitu Skopje Online (www.skopjeonline.com.mk) 40MKD and to Europe 35MKD. There are Del evo (26km west of Blagoevgrad) and at national routes on the website of Macedonian road and 50km/h to 60km/h in towns. Speed-
and embassies and consulates in Macedonia Guli 8) poste-restante services at major post offices. WOMEN TRAVELLERS Novo Selo (between Petri and Strumica). Railways (www.mz.com.mk/patnichki/timetable.htm). ing fines start from around 1500MKD. It is
can be found at www.mfa.gov.mk. UK (%02-3299 299; beskopje@mt.net.mk; Ul Salvador LANGUAGE Women travellers should feel no particular compulsory to wear a seat belt and to have
Albania (%04-233 036; makambas@albnet.net; cnr Rr Aljende 73); Bitola (%/fax 047-228 765; Ul Maral Macedonias two official languages are Mac- RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL concern about travel in Macedonia. Other Greece GET TING AROUND the headlights on (dipped) at all times for both
Sknderbej & Rr e Kavajs, Tirana) Tito 42) edonian and Albanian. Macedonian, a South Lake Ohrid trout is almost extinct, and in than possible cursory interest from men, There are crossings at Gevgelija (between Air cars and motorcycles. It is also compulsory to
Australia (%0612-6249 8000; info@macedonianemb.org USA (%02-3116 180; skopje.usembassy.gov; Bul Slavic language, is spoken by most of the 2004 the government issued a seven-year ban travel is hassle-free and easy. Skopje and Thessaloniki), Dojran (just east It is possible to fly between Skopje and Ohrid carry a replacement set of bulbs, two warning
.au; Perpetual Bldg, Ste 2:05, 10 Rudd St, Canberra ACT 2601) Ilinden bb) population. There are some grammatical simi- on catching it. Despite this, many restaurants of Gevgelija) and Meditlija. To get to this on MAT (see p484) but buses are definitely the triangles, a first-aid kit, and between 15 No-
Bulgaria (%02-870 1560; todmak@bgnet.bg; Ul Fred-
eric Joliot-Curie 17, Block 2, fl 1, Ste 1, Sofia 1113) FESTIVALS & EVENTS
larities between Macedonian and Bulgarian,
such as the omittance of case. Speakers of
still offer it, thereby encouraging illegal trout
fishing. Dont order it. TRANSPORT IN crossing, take a taxi from the Bitola bus sta-
tion (6, 15 minutes, 15km) and then order
best and cheapest option.

Bicycle
vember and 15 March cars must carry snow
chains. Motorcyclists and their passengers
Canada (%613-234 3882; www3.sympatico.ca/emb.mace
donia.ottawa/; 130 Albert St, Ste 1006, Ottawa ON, K1P 5G4)
France (%01 45 77 10 50; ambassade@fr.oleane.com; 5
There are a good few festivals in Macedonia,
especially in the summertime. July brings
open-air evening concerts, opera and theatre
Bulgarian, Serbian, Croatian and, to a lesser
extent, Russian should get by without too
much difficulty. For others, we recommend
Although in the majority of larger towns
and cities dress is tight, colourful and revealing
among women and men, do dress modestly
MACEDONIA a taxi on the Greek side to the nearest town,
Florina (12, 15 minutes, 17km). Cycling around Macedonia is becoming more
popular. The country offers generally good
must wear helmets. Macedonia has a relatively
high death toll from accidents and the busy
traffic police are vigilant on speeding, drink
Rue de la Faisanderie, 75116 Paris) to both Ohrid and Skopje. There is also a fun a good phrasebook, such as Lonely Planets when visiting a church, monastery or mosque. GET TING THERE & AWAY Kosovo road conditions and relatively light traffic driving and headlights in particular. Fines are
Germany (%030-890 69 50; makedonische.bot folklore festival in Ohrid in early July (see Eastern Europe Phrasebook. Air The main border crossing at Blace is just a though beginners should be warned it is a issued on-the-spot. The legal blood-alcohol
schaft@t-online.de; Koenigsallee 2, 14193 Berlin) p483). Summer sees the International Swim- Macedonian uses the Cyrillic alphabet, based TELEPHONE & FAX Macedonia has two international airports, 20-minute trip north from Skopje. There is mountainous country. limit is 0.05%.
Greece Athens (%210 674 9585; lormak@teledomenet ming Marathon on Lake Ohrid. on the Glagolitic script, which originated in A long-distance call costs less at main post Skopjes Petrovec airport (SKP; %02-3148 333; www another crossing point close by at Jazince,
.gr; Marathonoudromou 13, P Psychico, 154 52); Thessaloniki One festival that all Macedonians rave Macedonia and spread across the eastern Slavic offices than in hotels. Drop the initial zero .airports.com.mk) and the much smaller Ohrid air- used by vehicles coming from Tetovo. Bus Taxi
(%2310 277 347; dkpsolun@mfa.com.mk; Tsimiski 43) about is the Gali nik wedding festival (see world. Though Latin script appears on road in the city codes when calling Macedonia port (OHD; %046-252 820; www.airports.com.mk). There The bus network is well developed in Macedo- Taxis are a snappy way of getting to out-of-
Kosovo (%038-247 462; fax 247 463; Ul 24 Maj 121, p481), held on the second weekend in July. signs and some shop names, the Cyrillic al- from abroad. Buy phonecards in units of 100 is no departure tax. Serbia nia, with frequent services from Skopje to all the-way monasteries and other sights if buses
Prishtina) Skopjes autumn days are brightened up with phabet is predominant and street names are (200MKD), 200 (300MKD), 500 (650MKD) The main crossing point into Serbia is Taba- major centres in safe and fairly comfortable arent convenient. Macedonian taxis are very
Netherlands (%0704-27 22 64; repmak@wanadoo.nl; the flickering screens of the international printed in Cyrillic only, so its a good idea or 1000 (1250MKD) from post offices. Some AIRLINES novce, either on the motorway or by train. coaches. Its a good idea to buy a ticket from cheap by European standards Skopje has
Laan can Meerdevoort 50-C, 2517Am Den Haag) film festival and the warm sounds of the to learn the alphabet before travelling to the larger kiosks also sell the 100-unit cards. You Adria Airways (code JP; %02-3117 009; www.adria Theres a much smaller crossing point at the station a day or two in advance when travel- some of the cheapest capital-city taxis. A half-
Serbia & Montenegro Belgrade (%011-328 4924; Skopje Jazz Festival (www.skopjejazzfest.com.mk) in country. For a quick introduction to useful can often make cheap international calls at in- .si; Ljubljana) Pelince about 25km northeast of Tabanovce. ling to Ohrid in the busy summer season. For hour trip, from Skopje to Lake Matka for
macemb@eunet.yu; Gospodar Jevremova 34, 11000); October. Macedonian and Albanian words and phrases, ternet cafs for around 15MKD per minute. Air France (code AF; no local office; www.airfrance.com; further information see the Getting There & example, should cost around 350MKD.
Podgorica (%081-667 415; mkgkpodgorica@cg.yu; see the Language chapter, p944. Macedonia has a digital mobile phone net- Prague) BUS Away section of each destination chapter.
Hercegovacka 49/3, 81000) GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS work (MobiMak); mobile numbers are pre- Croatia Airlines (code OU; %02-3115 858; www From Skopje buses travel to Belgrade Train
UK (%020 7976 0535; www.macedonianembassy.org For a country that is quick to lay claim to the MONEY ceded by %070. Some providers may have .croatiaairlines.hr; Zagreb) (1350MKD, six hours, 431km, 16 daily), Prish- Car & Motorcycle Macedonia has a limited network of domestic
.uk; Suites 2.1 & 2.2, Buckingham Court, 75-83 Bucking- legacy of Alexander the Great (whose great Macedonian denar (MKD) notes come in Czech Airlines (code OK; %02-3290 572; www.czech tina (300MKD, 1 hours, 87km, six daily), DRIVING LICENCE destinations reachable by train. Possibly the
ham Gate, London SW1E 6PE) love was fellow soldier-boy Hephaistion), ac- denominations of 10, 50, 100, 500, 1000 and airlines.com; Prague) Sofia (640MKD, six hours, 222km, six daily) Usually your countrys driving licence will only one of any real interest is the four-
USA (%202-667-0501; www.macedonianembassy.org; ceptance of gays and lesbians is shamefully 5000, and there are coins of one, two and five EMERGENCY NUMBERS JAT Airways (code JU; %02-3118 306; www.jat.com; and further-flung Eastern European centres suffice, but it is a good idea to have an Inter- hour, three-times-daily service to Bitola via
2129 Wyoming Ave, Washington DC, 20008) lacking. Homosexuality was decriminalised denar. The denar isnt convertible outside Ambulance %194 Belgrade) such as Sarajevo, Zagreb and Ljubljana. Many national Driving Permit as well. Prilep from Skopje. The most youll pay for
in Macedonia in 1996, but there is little social Macedonia. Restaurants, hotels and some Lufthansa (code LH; %02-3216 120; www.lufthansa of these routes pass through smaller centres, a domestic ticket is 370MKD for a return
Police %192
Embassies & Consulates in Macedonia acceptance. Any scene that may exist is so shops will accept payment in euro (usually) .com; Ljubljana) including Ohrid and Bitola. HIRE to Bitola. Timetables are available on the
All of the following are located in Skopje un- underground its completely inaccessible to and US dollars (sometimes). In this book Highway & Roadside Assistance %15555 Malv Hungarian Airlines (code MA; %02-3111 214; To/from Albania you can travel from Tetovo Skopje is full of rental-car agencies, from the website of Macedonian Railways (www.mz.com
less indicated otherwise: tourists, not to mention many locals. weve used whatever currency the prices were www.malev.hu; Budapest) via Struga to Tirana by bus (900MKD, six to large ones (Hertz, Avis, Sixt) to dozens of .mk/patnichki/timetable.htm) .
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