0% found this document useful (0 votes)
320 views36 pagesRiviera
Lancha
Uploaded by
Awo IfaleyeCopyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF or read online on Scribd
0% found this document useful (0 votes)
320 views36 pagesRiviera
Lancha
Uploaded by
Awo IfaleyeCopyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF or read online on Scribd
/ 36
82 BOAT BUILDER'S HANDBOOK
RIVIERA
OU can do more than just wish that you
had a sleek, powerful, mahogany-decked
runabout like Riviera. By constructing
it yourself you can turn out this eye-appeal-
ing 38-mph boat that will be the pride of the
lake and a treat to ride in, yet spend only %
the price of even modest boats of the same
size and power. You can further fit Riviera
to your pocketbook by bargain hunting and
using just the amount of trim you wish.
Although Riviera is up to date in design
and is built to provide years of dependable
service, I have used the same construction
techniques that have proven themselves over
and over in handbook boat projects.
First draw the centerline of the transom
directly on %4-in. fir exterior plywood and
lay it out full-size as in Fig. 3, using the tech-
nique in Fig, 4 to draw the top and bottom
arcs. To draw the faired curves at the frame
sides, mark the end and center points and
drive finishing nails partway at these marks.
Bend a %-in.-sq. wooden batten against the
nails as a guide when drawing the lines.
‘Next mark the shape of the bottom, side,
and top framepieces, in that order, on 1x4
oak or fir stock, clamping it in place and
tracing the transom edges on it. Cut the
designed for the boat builder who is looking for a dependable boat that has power and class to spa!
a 17-Ft. Inboard
Runabout
Six-place luxury boat designed for ski
towing and all water sports is powered
hy your choice of 100- to 225-hp auto
engines converted for marine use
By WILLIAM D. JACKSON
Naval Architect
framepieces to shape, coat the contacting sur-
faces with glue, and attach them to the tran-
som with #8x1%-in. flathead (fh) screws
spaced 3 in. apart in a staggered double row.
Also cut and fasten the center framepiece
and the reinforcing blocks in the same way.
Next, using 6-ft. lengths of building paper
and one of the 4x8-ft. plywood panels as a
drawing board, draw centerlines and lay out
each frame and deck beam full-size as in Fig.
3. Draw the arcs and faired lines with the
same method used to lay out the transom.
To transfer the shape of the frame parts,
slide the stock under the pattern and line up
one edge with a straight line. Crease the
paper slightly to keep the stock aligned while
you run a toothed dressmaker’s wheel along
the pattern lines. Be sure to mark the cen-
terlines of the assembly on each horizontal BOAT BUILDER'S HANDBOOK 38
framepiece. 1-in, ringed nails and trim the outer edges
To assemble the flush with the frames.
frames, lay the parts Deck Beams. Frames #1, #4, and #5 have
in place on the pattern deck beams which are positioned and at-
to check their fit. Then _ tached in the same way. Also frames #1 and
insert triangular or, as | #2 have 2-piece bottom members that are
in frames #1 and #2, joined by 34-in.-thick lumber plates attached
rectangular pieces of with glue and #8 x 1%4-in. fh screws,
¥%4-in. plywood as gus- When all frames are assembled, mark the
sets at the frame joints location of the keelson, stringer, and seat
and trace the shape of _ riser notches and, also, of the prop shaft and
the %-in. stock on beam cutouts in frame #4. Do not cut these
them. Now coat the notches, however, until assembly.
contacting surfaces The stem assembly is made up of 156-in.-
with glue and drive — thick lumber joined with a spline and covered
three #8x1%-in. fh on both sides with %-in. plywood facings.
screws through each Lay out the stem full-size on building paper
joint. Fasten the ex- by first drawing the base and vertical refer-
posed corners of the — ence lines as in Fig. 6A. Then draw the stem
plywood gussets with and chine knee locating lines and the ordi-
Catt Print Project No. 327 SPECIFICATIONS
+17 feet
DECK BATTENS p COMBINATION WINDSHIELD STEERING i
= | sow Lisur £ WHEEL <7 feot—4 inches
x — - 16 inches
ee cereree Weight: . = 1250 Ibs.
FOAM RUBBI
UPHOLSTERY Seating Capacity: ....6 passengers
= 100 to 225 hp
ith Studebaker
101-hp conversion; Michigan 3-blade,
11x12 cupped prop.
Power:
ENGINE COMPART- SCORED DECKING
eee CONTINUOUS HINGE
ENGINE COMPART=
MENT HATCH
STERN LIGHT
FUEL TANK FILLER
SHEER CLAMP
FRAME #3
ENGINE BED ~
AND STRINGER
BEVELED CHINES
DECK BEAM KNEE
FRAME #5
NOTE: ALL EXPOSED PLYwooD S
EDGES COVERED WITH DECK BATTENS
FIBERGLASS TAPE, { TRANSOM,
p OUTER
FRAM|
MAHOGANY TRANSOM FACING
wood TRANSOM
‘AND 386 FRAME
E
z 54 BOAT BUILDER'S HANDBOOK
nates used to lay out the curve. Draw in the
curve with the aid of a wooden batten and
mark the location of the plywood facing with
colored pencil, When finished, transfer the
shape of the stem parts to the stock and cut
them out. Make the splined joint as in Fig.
6B. Cut the grooves for the spline with a
dado head on a circular saw or by making a
series of side-by-side cuts with a regular saw
blade. Coat the contacting surfaces of the
stem parts and spline with glue and assemble
them along with the lower stem knee on a
flat surface using #12x2%-in. fh screws.
Many of these screws will be removed later
to allow the stem parts to be faired.
Next, using the lumber core as a template,
make the plywood facings and attach these
with glue and 1-in. ringed nails. When the
eee
Tre T
a
7 AWAY, WEN
SEEMING “BER
FRAME
a &
TAT SPE 1x8 Stok JN oye
hy ACADECK BEAM, s
¢ Ee
Ebveccoems EE BOAT BUILDER'S HANDBOOK
WOLD PENCIL AT APEX, SUDE
SATTENS. BACK AND FORTH.
for pean wiotn —»
Sage e exrrens pri)
glue has dried, locate and cut the chine and
keelson notches.
Cut the Upper Stem (Fig. 8B) from 2 x 6
stock, beveling and tapering it as in Fig. 6C.
Fasten this to the stem assembly with glue
and three #10 x 2%4-in. fh screws. Then cut
and attach the upper stem knee (Fig. 6A),
mounting it flush with the end of the stem.
Make the keelson (Figs. 8B and C) from a
10-ft. length of 2x6 stock that has been
planed down to 1% in, at the lumberyard.
Taper the keelson from full width to 34 in.
from the fore end to 2¥%4-in. where it fits the
stem notch. Then, measuring from the fore
end, lay out and number the positions for the
frames according to Fig. 8. Coat the contact
ing surfaces of the stem and keelson with
glue and assemble them, centerlines aligned,
with three #12 x 2%4-in, fh screws.
Now with the keelson and stem assembly
upside down, place #2 frame in position so
the aft end of the stem butts against the plate
and the frame is evenly divided over the lo-
cating line. Frames #1 and #2 are notched
now to fit the stem and keelson assembly.
Be sure that frame #2 is at 90° to the top
and edges of the keelson, When the frame
fits well, remove it and coat the contacting
surfaces with glue. Fasten the frame to the
2¥10 STOCK
Lowes sre
ees eioen
ae
|g" ne 12
CINE Nora
LOCATING: LINE
NotcH
: -
| State
FOR KEELSON AFTER + Powoon FACING
‘STEM IS ASSEMBLED J top SIDE ONLY
ste “E 4x15 Powoon
LocaTIN ; SANE ge
the SUNS oS
D sneer puate 2-rea, t-riet, |
CLAMP TO LOWER FRAME
BIECES FLUSH WITH
KEELSON NOTCH
X=37§ FOR FRAME®S:
X=39F FOR FRAMER2
a
ERAMEWORK SUPPORTS
TEACH REQ
exif FH ScRews
ee eA
bhp Sa
keelson with two #12x2%4-in. fh screws,
countersinking the heads % in. Next install
frame #1 in the same way, driving an addi-
tional screw through the plate into the stem
and checking to be sure this frame is paral-
lel to frame #2.
When the glue has dried, remove as many
screws as necessary from the keelson and
stem assembly so you can fair the stem curve
as in Fig, 8B, using a wood rasp, jack plane,
or power sander. When finished, redrive the
screws, countersinking their heads % in.
Sheer Plates. Next lay out one sheer plate
as in Fig. 6D directly on %4-in. plywood and
use this as a template to make the other
sheer plate and a pair of 34-in.-thick lumber
cores. Then attach the facings to the cores
with glue and l-in. ringed nails, Cut the
breast hook (Fig. 6F) from %-in. plywood
‘pee STEM STEN LOCATING LINE
a7
CHINE NOTCH LOCATING LINE
3p
-LEFT 36 BOAT BUILDER'S HANDBOOK
and fasten this to the upper stem with glue
and #8x1%-in. fh screws.
Place the sheer plates, with facings up, irito
the frame notches to check their fit and clamp
them to the beam of #1 frame to see that
everything fits well. It may be necessary to
run a hand saw through the joint between
the plates to provide a close fit. Now un-
clamp the plates and, working from the
breasthook aft, coat the contacting surfaces
with glue, Secure the plates to the stem and
frames with #8x 14-in. fh screws.
Next cut the patterns for the intermediate
deck beams (Fig. 3) and knees from paper
and arrange them on 1x8 stock so they can
be cut with the least waste. Transfer the
shape of these parts to the stock, cut them,
and fit the sheer plate notches.
‘Now measure back 8 in. from the fore side
tax *
Tose #0 x14 5 SCRENS ‘ Kenly mi sceens g x29" Sve tex
OHNE LINES oh / BATTENS
7 F — i—~
eae se Gay Aun |) pecans =
aur eerrens |} 3 xy XE ,
m1 HATCH Aen | SHEER CLAMP Ff Peano
STEN Teel ; Beer
BATIEN| [204 secws = AS
jeer or coce|pi7s Mz /
CENTER DECK ENGNE — | AWAY AFTER Boro . ‘
BATTEN-1 *4 STOCK] HATCH. ASSEMBLY Fi pile ‘NOT ] iy 7
| | “sown i
= : See erie : :
43% AS" = - 23> lS" 205 ~
ee Sete oie
PAN VIEW BRTEN 1nd Sx
SHEER PLATES
utsou essen]. eran auacal 1B 1g" lesan azaleas sles
Fmrwcoo MB Brome
4 4 ‘BEAM.
Fame coll [scam woges] |] F yvern)) sprroer
ance STeNCERS Sf L-
Fc? seoee-y ENOINE eos] | 258 See Gor.
TRANSOM KNEES) ces 2x2 STKK a btn
~ XK seh PB e\ "
IT 36 fae B es yy, cane |
= SM gt
Ss
ifeig20" sranctr ax
poe eed SO ‘cneanct
somo Fete VENER care
Fons * 3-4-5 e
‘orto
INGNE 0 STANGER ow
nd SOK
4x4h" cappace Bos
WOKAL STRINGER
ee.
= 4 tas
A ae Btn [Ree
SS re ie
aes [ee EPTRR oes me
4 r 1 se Noted
IZ Set er sion secre
< ' ry es
4 it D WPen 7
[on oes | ORE ae BOAT BUILDER'S HANDBOOK 37
of beam #1 (Fig. 8) and fasten beam #1B
flush with the sheer plates, using two #8 x 2-
in. screws to each joint. The beam knees are
not installed at this time. Place #1A beam so
its fore side is 20 in. forward of beam #1.
Support this beam with a vertical strut that
is fastened to the beam with glue and one
#8x1%-in, fh screw and whose lower end
is notched into the stem (Fig. 8B) and se-
cured with plywood tabs, glue, and nails.
Next notch the beams for the centerline
deck batten (Fig. 8A) and, after fitting the
fore end to the sheer plate joint and inserting
MATERIALS LIST—RIVIERA (Framing Only)
(Parentheses indicate nominal sizes used when ordering lumber)
Ant sess possi =
Tr Gwacseewipees le ci
io
ne Ohana nek,
eee
peer
Ce corratm — Soaeeee
fe er eee
Cis ve mvp ‘aoe
=a
Fen ie ea
ee ae a a, tan
eS
i Gee gees
1 (2x12) x 8” oak, fir, pine engine beds
ee ee
eee
1 Waexe wo wel ee
FASTENING AND MISCELLANEOUS
50 ft. 36” red rosin building paper
ae pocorn a
Ee sgctsncr ee pepe
SE Tpebpdeotnth
ig deren ase eee
1g. (#8 x 134" fh brass or mone! woodscrews:
Bke Senrad eons
‘3doz, $12 x 2/4” th brass or monel woodscrews
Lib." Anchorfast boat nails
a filler to bring the top side of the batten
flush with the plates, attach it to the beam
with glue and two #8 x 134-in. fh screws and
to the breast hook with glue and three #8x
1if-in. fh screws.
Make one each of the supports as in Fig. 5,
and temporarily attach the longer one to
frame #2 with a crossbrace and #8 x 1%4-in.
screws. Attach the other support in the same
way to frame #5, but omit the crossbrace.
Now cut and bevel the keelson notch in
frame #5 so the frame will sit parallel to
frame #2, and attach it with glue and two
#12x2M%-in. fh screws. When the glue has
dried, turn the subassembly upside down so
it rests on the supports. Then attach the
frames #3 and #4 in the same way, beveling
the keelson notches as necessary so the
frames will hang vertical and be parallel to
the other frames.
Next attach the transom (Fig. 8B), obtain-
ing the proper angle by attaching %4-in, ply-
wood transom knees to the center framepiece
and keelson with glue and 1-in. ringed nails.
Then drive two #12 screws through the keel-
son into the transom and trim the keelson
Subassambly, consisting of stem, forward fi
, gives first pr
beamy eye-catching lines.
flush with the aft edge.
Rip the chines (Fig. 7) from 1x4 stock
and cut their notches in the lower corner of
each frame, using a short piece of chine stock
as a gauge so the chine will fit flush. Then
clamp the chines at the transom, bend them
in, and clamp again at the chine knee. Run
an 8-pt, saw between the chine and the notch
to fit the frames to the curve of the chine.
When the chines fit along their entire length,
fasten them to the frames with glue and one
#8 x 1%-in, fh screw to each joint, and to the
chine knees with two screws to each side.
When finished and the glue has dried, install
the sheer clamps (Fig. 7) in the same way.
Use 1%4-in. stock, however, and begin fitting
them in the notches of the sheer plate.
Next rip the bottom stringers (Fig. 8) from
1x6 stock and, after locating them as in Fij
7, noteh them flush into the frames and se-
cure them with glue and two #8x 1%-in. fh
screws to each joint.
Framework Is Now Faired prior to plank-
ing, using several ¥% x 1%4-in. wooden battens
ranging 4- to 16-ft. in length. Lay these along
the framework and across the bilge stringers
to locate areas that are ¥4 in. or more above
the rest of the framing. Trim these areas
with a jack plane or a Stanley (Sear’s) Sur-
form rasp, If low spots are found, glue in
filler pieces or “dutchmen” and trim these so
the checking batten will make a smooth
curve when laid anywhere along the frame. 3B
BOAT BUILDER'S HANDBOOK
Rudder and strut, shown under finished boat, have
close clearances which work out quite well. Shape of
rudder is best for ready maneuverability and skiing.
Closeup view showing engine beds cut from 2x 12
stock in position on 2x4 stringers firmly held by
several sets of stringer supports.
eTER agy
DASHEOARD OPENING 3
a