Telia Rumal
The name Telia derives from ‘Tel’ meaning ‘Oil’ and given to this craft as some quantity of oil
is used to prepare yarn for Ikat weaving. By clay and wax wrapping, the finished yarn is readied
on which a weaver can devise an exact pattern before it is dipped in selected dyes.
The basic structure of Telia Rumal has a strong diagonal or square grid in which geometric or
floral motifs in double Ikat are woven. Traditionally this formed the central unit which is
mostly framed by a red border with the overall colour scheme being red, white and black.
Telia Rumal is a double Ikat design where two or more motifs are repeated several times in the
design.
The warp as well as weft threads are coupled and dyed into a complicated pattern, and while
weaving the craftsperson has to ensure that the warp and weft threads intersect perfectly to
produce the preset pattern.
Weaving in double Ikat is so intricate that takes almost a month to weave the length of a single
saree. The complicity of the design increases as the patterns become sharper and smaller.
The whole process takes lot of team work and co-ordination apart from the high level of skill
and years of experience to achieve perfection.
In India, the double Ikat technique is most renowned in the Nalgonda district of
Telangana State.