Knitting cereletere)|$24.95 Can. $38.95 All the ABC’s of knitting are covered in this complete course that will not only show you the basics, but also techniques that will take your projects to the next level. It’s the easiest and best way to learn knitting at home. Your confidence builds as you compare the types of yarn available and begin to use them to cast stitches onto your needles, forming a foundation row. Try knitting and purling—the fundamental stitches—as well as variations that will give you different decora- tive effects. Move on to other stitches and techniques, including single and double increases, which are used to shape side seams, armholes, sleeves, and neck openings. Then bind it off to finish a project. Once you know how to create neck openings, sleeves, and cuffs, you'll turn to these fundamentals time and again for different looks. Knit a square neck, for example, if you want a classic design. Edgings are important because they create decorative finishes and help keep your projects in shape. Blocking can be done with water, or in some cases with steam, to’ (continued on back flap)(continued from front flap) prepare various pattern pieces, and straighten curled up edges and any irregularity among the stitches. Sewing is the final step that will ensure attractive fin- ished results. If you make a mistake, don’t worry, you'll learn how to correct some of the most common errors and even repair damage to an existing garment. Focus on the details that will give your work indi- viduality and style whether it’s pockets or pleats. Special features like beading and fringes add flair to an otherwise plain design. Multicolored designs, cables, and bobbles are another way to provide interest and texture, while embroidery will bring the simplest of projects to life. Bonus: Directions for making five types of projects, including mittens, baby booties, and an Aran Isle sweater, yf Sterling Publishing Co., Inc. New York Printed in ChinaSterling Publishing Co., Inc. New Yorkcontents Before Getting Started .......... S Wristbands) 09 sae me ees aP Beading! asses gece & THE VAIN ccna wave wi a wre 4 SB Wheistharcs:? «oi. ce cece ace ats ae 49; Beeclings 2 ace sie cco gsieocenetaeinsie 3 GANG secesarsreege a ae f SORT wesn es at cee teens SY JaCauard SUE) scxneecan vs xs Knitting and Purling ...........- SY (GOA cc cnt neediness 53 Smocking on Knits ........... Slip Stitch and Passing Slip HSS ce cece eam 24 semation 55 Knitting Cables ..........0.55 en Over Sa | Pee oe WEG << csepance we IES NIE sce six mwa tote a a 66 FUSE, cansiomarcie on on oo oe el as ai Eon Ate Pdgines:? osc ss santee ae 61 Fringes and Pompons GCoerterarttal FIRING fay vue 2+ Sexe e Selvages and Picking Up Baby BeotieS seisisis-via 2s sa ue si Ribbing Started with STIGHES as Gi niradimmimnawne 63 Mitt. 1 Tubular Stitch 12... 6... eee AP on: en ERS SS 1 TAESE SEY (PEE. Ne ; Circular Knitting . =... .006. 5.05 65 Mittens 2 TUBOE RIEINS oe 6 a eee a Correcting Mistakes ........... 67 GI Closing the Tubular Stitch ...... aa estes NES ameaiNaiees ie Ay SSRN FIRISHIIG. acs on acscemenwinnce em uc 69 Neary (sles te Single and Double Increases . . . .23 ‘ Pelee Peet i SONNE, ans wn eenaitine nants a He a Aran Isle Sweater 2 Symmetrical Increases ......... 25 Buttonholes and Loops ........ 73 . Single and Double Decreases .. .27 ORS) igetisty SF HE te Be Ne Hesiinle Poskets 1 s caisiiceuss ah ae te Me 75 Quilted Knit Symmetrical Decreases 1...... . 29 LEGS SISOS is Say iat bat ROR tiee FROCROES 2 e.sessyiviiuiatsascaiana’ exe en aw whe ft Knitted: Patahwerk Symmetrical Decreases 2... ..... ST ipasbeBand ages soc ne ena ot 79 Binding Off 33 ; EFABIOI SREY vo: ays cong wxscwgoernuene 4 RSS Tae ee Mending, Reinforcing, Patching . .81 ; ErriiSrolgery 2 csc ais sawiiaiais ates NONGCK. te oy cwromeracwian oad 35 ? Horizontal Darts! sg ec ese see ave oe: was 83 Embroidery 3 PROTOS: sea nsrtemnnensert oe ae et e VeMical) DatSy cin. asc: ad mete Se 85 Erabreidarcd SGUARGINGOK: no cnemner nein aime F 39 ROIRICS int eve semsuaeauaete oe 3 "THORS cuisscew ey aa ee oe ee a 87 Motifs ta Embroider 1 Round N@GK oescccs as ex we oe ¢ 41 OHStO EIVETaIue! GiDetS Head oH eS Kee we ea aa 89 Motifs to Embroider 2 Neck Openings, Shoulders, i BEABIBEIEE TH cc ow an vu mewed 43 Elaborate Cable Stitch ......... 91 LHGESE ses cov gon aewtucwrevarow aca ana 5 Neck Openings, Shoulders, Finishing with a Crochet Hook .. .93 and Sleeves 2 ............- 45 Shoulder Pads ............... 95 Translated by Kelly Ramke and Maria Elena Sandovici. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data [Scuola di maglia. English} Knitting school / {English translation by Sterling Publishing Company]. p.cm. Originally published in 1990 in Italy by Fabbri editori. Includes index. ISBN 1-4027-0519-0 |. Knitting. 1. Sterling Publishing Company. [1. Fabbri edi- tori. TT820.$43513 2003 746.43'2-de21 2003005724 10) 9 8 °F G'S ob SF 2 Published by Sterling Publishing Co., Inc. 387 Park Avenue South, New York, NY 10016 Originally published in Italy by Fabbri Editorial Group under the title Scuola di Maglia © 1990 by Fabbri Editorial Group, Bompiani, Sonzogno, Etas Spa, Milano English translation © 2003 by Sterling Publishing Co., Inc. Distributed in Canada by Sterling Publishing “o Canadian Manda Group, One Atlantic Avenue, Suite 105 Toronto, Ontario, Canada M6K 3E7 Distributed in Great Britain by Chrysalis Books 64 Brewery Road, London N7 9NT, England Distributed in Australia by Capricorn Link (Australia) Pty. Lid. P.O. Box 704, Windsor, NSW 2756, Australia Manufactured tn China All rights reserved Sterling ISBN 1-4027-0519-0before getting started Knitting is easy, relaxing, and fun. You do not need many tools to start. as what to use The Needles are the basic instruments in knitting. They can be made from metal, plastic, or wood. They come with a single point (for executing all the flat surfaces), or with a double point (usually in a set of four or five called a double-pointed needle set for knitting articles, such as socks, in a circular manner), or circular (made from two needle points joined by a flexible strand for knitting an article without having to seam pieces together). All needles are available in different sizes, from very small to very large ones. The thicker the yarn, the larger the needles generally need to be. It is also very useful to have a cable needle (a small needle that is usually slightly bent in the middle) handy to use when setting aside part of your work, such as, when you knit cable pattern stitches. Scissors Making a gauge sample, and using the same needles, yarn, and pattern as for the planned project, is an important first step of any knitting job. Usually the swatch should be about a 5-inch (12-cm) square. Lay the finished swatch flat without stretching it, measure 3 inches (8 cm) in width, then in length, and count how many stitches across and how many rows in length it corresponds to. If this count does not match that given in the instructions, you need to try again using larger or smaller needles until you get the required number of rows and stitches. Knitting to the specified gauge is essential for your project to match the pattern's size. If you alter the directions, the gauge gives the number of stitches or rows to change per inch you wish to add or subtract. Row counter The stitch holder is like a large safety pin that is used to hold those stitches not being worked on out of the way without their becoming undone. The row counter is inserted on the needle and increased row by row as you knit, allowing you to keep track of how many rows you have done. The needle gauge is useful for determining the size of the needles that do not haye a number imprinted on them (for example, double-pointed needles). The yarn needle with blunt tip is useful for finishing touches, such as sewing seams, weaving in yarn ends, and embroidered designs. Other useful accessories include markers, a crochet hook, a tape measure, scissors, and pins,s designing your own sweater After you have completed several knitted garments following the patterns, you may be ready to try making one of your own design, or to adapt the pattern in some special way. This book presents a variety of neck openings, sleeve treatments, tailoring finishes, and final decorations to help you create a garment that is unique and well constructed, Some basic how-to information is presented throughout the book. There are also many new or different techniques that you may want to practice and incorporate into your design. If there are references to special eee ee ee et methods (e.g., a special way to bind off) that you are unfamiliar with, check the table of contents and index to find out where they are presented in the book so you can practice them, To plan your own garment, you need to know the size and shape of the pieces you will be knitting and the gauge for yarn and needles you plan to use, Start with a simple shape (see diagrams above) and determine the measure- ments needed to fit, Measuring one of your own garments can help. Make a cardboard pattern for each piece you want to knit and use it as. a guide when beg: beginning de: double crochet dec: decrease stitch Dictionary of Abbreviations and Terms rnd: round (circular row) rds: rounds sc: single crochet ah Example of adapting the pat- x tern: the base (in solid black ‘ line), the mirror image (in dot- you work so you can knit to proper shape, increasing or decreasing as needed. Make a gauge sample for the yarn you plan to use and determine how many stitches per inch/em. Measure your pattern at the lower edge and multiply gauge (e.g., 5 stitches per inch) and number of inches across (¢.g., 12 inches); the resulting number, 60 in this case, is how many stitches to cast on. Measure the pattern at several places to figure the number of increases needed and where they have to be worked. Be sure to recheck your math carefully place marker in work: use a safety pin or tie on strand of col- ored yarn to mark a dp: double pointed si: slip stitch or row k: knit sl st: slip turn work: turn piece k2tog: knit 2 stitches st: stitch Stor ern rel her ni st Re lei i sts: stitches is now toward you tog: together work even: work with- Ip: loop yo: yarn over out decreasing or Pp: purl place marker on increasing p2tog: purl 2 stitches needle: put a ring or *,.. *: repeat material together as one loop of colored yarn between asterisks psso: pass slip stitch over on needle to separate stitchesoe cm the yarn Yarn and craft stores offer an extraordir variety of yarns with very different characteristics. In order to make the right choice, consider the style of the sweater you wish to knit and the purpose it will serve so that you can find the most suitable yarn. Yarn is made by spinning together strands of natural fibers (animal and plant) or chemical fibers (synthetic) ora blend of both natural and synthetic fibers. Wool was once the most commonly encountered yarn in knitting. Some of the best known wools are merinos, Shetland, and lambswool; some of the most prized wools are cashmere, mohair, angora, vicuna, alpaca, and camel hair. Another natural animal fiber is silk, made by the cocoons of silkworms in the form of silk floss which is then treated. Among natural plant fibers, there are cotton, linen, hemp, and jute, even though the latter is rarely used. Chemical fibers are obtained through transforming a natural substance, cellulose, (orlon, dralon, leacryl) and synthetic fibers, obtained from petroleum derivatives (acrylics, polyamid, polyesters). Many present-day combinations of natural and chemical fibers can render yarn more el versatile, and e easy to care for. Depending on the spinning method used, yarn can be softer, more or less twisted, curled, and of different thickness and weight. Also, yarn can differ in strength and consistency, depending on the number of threads or plies that are spun into one. A ply is a name that is given to each particular yarn (for instance, knitting worsted is a 4-ply yarn and other yarns may be 2 or 3-ply yarns). This number indicates the strength of the yarn but never its thickness because the plies can be of various diameters. Finally, among the most appreciated qualities of yarn is its elasticity. Ifa yarn regains its original measurements after being stretched, this can be a guarantee that once you knit itinto a sweater it will maintain its shape. ‘There are many types of yarn on the market, which vary according to their content, structure, quality, and use. The following page indicates the characteristics and uses of the best known types of yarn. The needles appropriate for knitting each type are usually indicated on the label of each ball of yarn. ry ic ic, imaginative, and n more economical andthe yarn SHETLAND Description: wool of the Shetland sheep Weight: light Usage: sports garments SPORT Description: pure or mixed wool Weight: light Usage: sweaters, scarves, stockings, gloves, hats MOHAIR KNITTING WORSTED Description: hair of Angora Description: pure or mixed goats, usually mixed with fibers, 4 ply other fibers Weight: medium Weight: extremely Usage: sweaters, heavy” Usage: warm but li garments, shawls CABLE ALPACA Description: pure or mixed wool Description: wool of the alpaca, Weight: medium soft and vaporous Usage: sweaters, suits, jackets Weight: light Usage: sweaters and expensive shawls CHENILLE Description: yarn made of cotton or synthetic fabrics with short and interlaced BABY Description: wool or synthetic Weight: extremely light Usage: garments for newborns Weight: from light to heavy Usage: sweaters, jackets, trimmings, shawls, hats LAME BOUCLE Description: multicolored yarn, with curled yarns Weight: from light to heavy Usage: sweaters, garments, jackets i jg Rennie Ree Description: multicolored yarn, made out of metal yarn mixed with other fibers Weight: extremely light COTTON Description: less elastic than wool Weight: from light to heavy Usage: sweaters, collars, elegant garments, sports clothescasting on There are many ways to cast on stitches to form the foundation With the tip of the right-hand row. Here are several 2 a needle, draw the yarn as shown from the underside of the ring that you of the more common have formed. ways to cast stitches onto the knitting needles. Three methods are presented: sta rting ] Wrap the yarn from under 5 : your left thumb as shown, with one needle, with then up and around your left ; index finger, forming a ring. two pieces of yarn, or with two needles. s casting on with one needle Leaving a long end about three times the desired length of the starting edge, hold the yarn in your left hand and a needle in your right hand. ie With your right hand, wrap the yarn (stemming from the ball of yarn) under the needle tip, then up and over the needle to the right as shown. 5 Remove index finger and pull on to tighten knot below first stitch. Repeat to form stitches for starting edge. 4 With the left index finger, slip the ring over the tip of the needle.casting on Casting On with Two Pieces of Yarn Use this type of casting on when you need a very firm edge, even if it is not elastic. Follow the same steps as when casting on with one needle but use a doubled strand of yarn. = casting on with two needles ‘This method is useful for adding new stitches to a work already in progress. Form first stitch as shown on previous page, then pass the needle to left hand and hold second needle in right hand. ] Insert tip of right-hand needle into front loop of the stitch just made, as shown, and wrap yarn (from ball) around right needle tip from the back, up and over the needle to right. 3 Slip second stitch onto left-hand needle, in front of the first. 2 Withdraw right-hand needle a little to pull Continue step | until you have added all the second stitch forward. stitches needed to the left-hand needle. iknitting and purling After having athe knit stitch (k) cast on the Hold the needle with the stitches in your left hand, supporting it with the little finger and stitches, the first guiding it with the ring and middle fingers. Keep . thumb lightly pressing on needle, guiding stitches to thing you need tip with index finger. to do is learn how to knit and purl. These are the basic stitches in knitting. 2 Wrap the yarn from the ball around the little finger of 3 Pick up right-hand needle. As you knit, guiding with right hand, as shown, pass it over ring finger, under thumb, insert the needle tip into stitches on left-hand middle finger and over index finger. needle while index finger directs the movement of yarn. Keeping the yarn you are working with behind 5 With right index finger, wrap yarn from back to needle, insert right-hand needle (from front to back) front, then up and over right-hand needle, then back in front loop of first stitch on left-hand needle. down behind same needle. Withdraw right-hand needle a little to pull new stitch forward, letting this new stitch slip onto right-hand needle and dropping old stitch off left-hand needle. Continue working each stitch across, passing new stitches to right needle and sliding old stitches off left needle. If you turn work around at the end of each row and keep knitting rows, you will form a basic pattern called garter stitch, which looks like a series of horizontal ridges.knitting and purling athe purl stitch (p) 1] Turn work so that the back of knitted stitches is toward you. Hold needle with stitches in left hand. Insert right- hand needle into front loop of first stitch of left needle, from right to left. Yarn is at front of work. Wrap yarn around tip of right-hand needle, looping it back over tip and bringing it forward again under tip. Withdraw right-hand needle tip to pull new stitch onto right needle and slip old stitch slip off left-hand needle. Continue working in this way on stitches on left needle. If you turn work at the end of each row and alternate knit and purl rows, you will form another basic pattern called stockinette stitch, which looks smooth on knit side and bumpy on purl side, The Twisted Purl Oe <2 RERSUSRER Work as for regular knit stitch, but insert right needle through Work as if doing a normal purl but wrap yarn under needle, back loop of the stitch. The twisted stitches are less elastic then up over the needle. It is useful to know a twisted purl and, therefore, your garment will not easily lose its shape. stitch, although it is used less often than twisted knit.slio stitch and passing slip stitch over Pass Slip Stitch Over (psso) This variation of knit and purl slipped stitches is used to decrease number of stitches. The method may differ from slip stitches above in how stitch is slipped onto right needle. When you knit, your yarn stays in back of the work; when you purl, There are several it stays in front. ways to vary the basic knit and purl stitches for Pass slip stitch over single stitch. Slip a stitch without knitting it from left to right needle (slip as if to purl, as shown, for a twisted stitch, or as if to knit for a flat stitch). Knit next stitch, and with left needle, decorative purposes. These variations include slip stitch, draw slipped stitch over stitch just knitted and drop it (1 stitch is decreased). passing slipped stitch over, yarn over, long stitch, and crossed stitch. Pass slip stitch over double stitch. Pass a slip stitch as if to knit from left to right needle. Insert right needle through 2 stitches on left needle and knit them as if 1 stitch. Then, with left needle, draw slipped stitch over double stitch and drop it (2 stitches decreased). = slip stitch (sI st) eee) AS sei LORWYN SIAM NAW AWAY AWRY Pe | ad | Nee ng saks> SakeReN a) — y s0niatnaaPonn® Ear SSeS Won ss SARWAN POLS SLA ENT Y Ven\ © ed er he et Ax Sn 1 Slip stitch on knit rows. Yarn stays in back of Slip stitch on purl rows. Yarn stays in front work. Insert right needle as if to purl (right to of work, Slip stitch onto right needle without left) through stitch on left needle and slip it onto purling it. right needle without working it. (It will then be in the correct position when you work it on the next row.)yarn over = yarn over (yo) This stitch is used in lace patterns or to increase number of stitches by adding a loop that is worked as a stitch on next row. The loop makes a hole or eyelet in work. A — Ree AUP VAY VIRRORORNA \ HALE SRW HER a SSS Yarn over in knit. Bring yarn from back to D Yarn over in purl. Start with yarn in front, front of work under needle, then wrap it over wrap it up over left needle and bring it back the right needle; with yarn now in back, continue to front under needle tip; continue to purl across to knit across row. On next row, work loop as a row. On next row, work loop as a stitch. stitch (purl on purl row, knit on knit row). Yarn over between knit and purl. After knitting stitch, Yarn over between purl and knit. After purling stitch, bring yarn to front of work, then wrap it over right leave yarn in front and knit next stitch, (Yarn will needle and bring it forward again to purl next stitch. automatically wrap over needle to back and form yarn over.) 12long stitch and crossed stitch slong stitch AB WIA ass Wy Wy ER Bi WA a SUNTAN Long stitch worked in the row below. Insert right needle through center of stitch just below next stitch on left needle. Wrap yarn around tip of right needle to knit and draw new stitch through on right needle, sliding unworked stitch and one below it (just worked) off left needle. Unworked stitch will undo itself but be caught on long stitch. SSF Patterns may require long stitches to be made with a crochet hook. These stitches may be in a different color or knitted together with other stitches to new color, attach a strand of the yarn, ‘or use the working yarn (as shown), and insert needle into, or between, loop for long stitch. 3 Long stitch formed with yarn over. This is used in loose-knit patterns. Knit, wrapping yarn around right needle 3 times (or more times, as directed) for each stitch. On next row, work stitches (knit or purl, as directed), using only 1 yarn-over loop for each original stitch, sliding off others to form long stitch. slant sideways or diagonally. If using a stitches as directed and draw through Long stitch worked several rows below. This is used for honeycomb pattern. Work 4 rows in stockinette stitch (knit 1 row, purl 1 row) before establishing pattern. Work a long stitch 3 rows (or as directions indicate) below next stitch on left needle. Draw new stitch through, sliding unworked stitch off left needle and undoing stitches below it back to new long stitch. Cp reese g penn, Se kas cog SUAS EAST Lr Srna ord AGS) AUER KI A Peck eet Se ap Seen “3long stitch and crossed stitch s crossed stitch yy ‘ Q/ Sos / PSS WA HF ENS) fat CAH TAWA AT WALA LALA AW ESA E Ana yaen WA A Aa) YRURV ALY i Stitch crossed to right on knit rows. Work to spot for Stitch crossed to left on knit rows. Skip first stitch on crossover, skip first stitch on left needle and reach pass left needle and reach behind it to knit back loop of next it to knit second stitch on left needle, then knit skipped stitch, then knit into front of skipped stitch; slide both stitches stitch, sliding both worked stitches off left needle. off left needle. Stitch crossed to right on purl row. Skip first stitch, purl next stitch, then purl skipped stitch and slide both off left needle. Stitch Crossed to left on purl row. Skip first stitch and, reaching behind it, draw out loop of second stitch and purl it, then purl skipped stitch and slide both stitches off left needle.continental knitting show to cast on In some European countries, people the stitches knit with their hands and yarn held ina different position from the one more commonly used in the United States. Some people may find it more comfortable to use this technique because you can keep the work close to your body, maintaining a more erect position. Try it to see which method works best for you. Either method should give good results, if followed correctly. Form the first stitch with a running knot placed on needle so that ball of yarn is on right-hand side of needle. 2 Wrap yarn from ball around middle finger of left hand, Rotate thumb and yarn upward so free yarn end then over index finger. Pass yarn from yarn end around forms a ring around your thumb. Hold end securely thumb as shown, holding thumb and index finger about with other fingers. 2 inches (5 cm) apart. 4 Insert tip of needle into ring. Then rotate thumb down to pass tip Catch yarn again with thumb under the yarn from ball (wrapping and work as before to make it around needle) and draw up stitch. desired number of stitches. Withdraw thumb and stretch fingers, pulling yarn gently to tighten knot. 15continental knitting athe knit stitch Wrap yarn twice around left index 2 Lower right index finger to bring 3 Draw right needle tip forward, bringing finger as shown, holding yarn at yarn forward over right needle as new stitch through old. Slide old stitch back of work. Insert right-hand needle shown. off needle. Repeat for each stitch, into front loop of first stitch, athe purl stitch 1 With yarn wrapped on left index 2 Insert right needle back to front Wrap yarn over needle as shown and finger, hold yarn at front of work. through front loop of stitch using retract right needle, pulling new stitch finger to hold yarn out of the way. toward back of work. TIP Avid knitters often end up with leftover yarns—not enough for a sweater but too much to waste. One idea for using up cotton yarns is to make potholders or place mats in one color or several. In order to make them more colorful and cheerful, you can trim the edges with a border of cotton bias tape.ribbing started with tubular stitch 1 This stitch, also called double knit- = casting on yarn of a different color ting, is worked on two needles and produces a double- sided work, making it reversible. It has two layers that can separate or form the start of ribbed 1 With a contrasting color yarn, cast on half the number of stitches that you need, plus 1. Continue with yarn chosen for _ your work, as follows: edges. 2. Ist row: Knit first stitch, *make a yarn over (see page 12, to bring yarn to front of work and wrap it over right needle to back, making a new stitch). Knit next stitch. Repeat from * across row. You should now have desired number of stitches. Turn work to work next row. 4 2nd row: Work as follows: With yarn in front of work, slip first stitch as if to purl onto left needle without knitting it. Slip all stitches knitted on Ist row this way, alternating this step with the following one. 17with tubular stitch 1 ribbing started 5 With yarn behind work again, knit each yarn-over stitch added on Ist row. Starting Edge for K2, P2 Ribbing Cast on with contrasting color yarn and work first three rows as for tubular stitch 1. Then establish k2, p2 rib- bing by working across all the stitches as follows: Skip first stitch, * knit (k) next k stitch and leave it on needle, skip 1 and k next stitch, leaving them on needle, bring yarn forward and purl first skipped stitch, dropping it and first k stitch from left needle, now purl 2nd skipped stitch and drop it and 2nd k stitch from left needle (k2, p2 worked), skip next stitch; repeat from * across row. 6 3rd and 4th rows: Work across, knitting each stitch slipped on previous row and slipping as if to purl each stitch worked on previous row, 5th row: Now work as usual in k1, pl ribbing; continue in ribbing until piece is desired length. At the end of knitting, remove colored yarn. Knitting the Edges If you are using tubular stitch as the front edge on a cardigan and wish to continue knitting in stockinette stitch, use twice as many stitches. When the tubular stitch is removed from needles, it separates into two layers: the front knit side and the back purl side, as it faces you (see illus- tration). You can get the opposite result (purl front and knit interior) if you work 2nd and 3rd rows as follows: 2nd row: Purl stitches that will face outward; slip 18 alternating stitches (that will face inward) without knitting them, holding yarn in front of work. 3rd row: Purl slipped stitches from previous row and with yarn in front, slip stitches that were worked on the previous row without working them. Once the double-knitted cardigan edge is. completed, decrease the extra stitches by working 2 stitches together as one, and continue working in single layer as usual. Using tubular knitting in this way to start ribbing gives the ribbing an attractive and stable beginning edge. It gives kl, pl and k2, p2 ribbing the desired elasticity as well as the stability. Tubular knitting is also useful when you want to start a stockinette stitch piece without forming an edge. The tubular stitch will prevent the edge from rolling up. There are two ways to cast on the stitches for the tubular stitch: with a contrasting color yarn, as shown, or with the same yarn you will knit. Both work well, The first time you try tubular stitch, you may find it difficult, especially the first few rows. Practice until you are familiar with the technique. Do not get discouraged, for once you learn it, this stitch is very easy, and it is a technique worth knowing.tubular stitch 2 scasting on with the same yarn used for knitting Hold needle in your right hand. With the same yarn you want to use for knitting, form a loop on needle. Hold in left hand the yarn that comes from ball (yarn A);’ hold the other yarn end (B) with right hand. SS B 2 With left hand, wrap yarn A around needle forward and 3 With right hand, bring yarn B under needle from behind over needle, bringing it down behind needle, to front so that it wraps around yarn A, forming second stitch (front stitch). With left hand, wrap yarn A again around needle 5 With right hand, bring yarn B in front of new loop and around under needle to back, forming third stitch (back stitch), Repeat steps 2 through 5 to make desired number of stitches. Make an even number of stitches; one will be dropped in step 9. NOTE: Left hand always moves working yarn A to form new stitch, while right hand completes stitch by moving yarn end B alternately forward or backward. { (asin step 2). Igtubular stitch 2 GuAener Stitches cast on in this way appear as alternating front stitches and back stitches. 7 Holding needle in left hand, begin by slipping back stitch as if to purl, without working it, and knit next front stitch, 8 Continue by slipping next back stitch as if to purl, knit next stitch, 9 Continue working in this manner, alternating stitches, across row to last stitch, but do not work this last stitch (started as a single loop); drop it off from left needle. ai Vee ea as mW ae Gi ae ae oF LESNAR nd quar 10 Continue to work rows in this manner, alternating stitches to knit slipped stitches of previous row and slip worked ones. Once you have finished knitting, close work (see next section). Then gently pull at loop formed by dropped stitch on first row, undoing beginning yarn. 20closing the tubular stitch The double or tubular stitch requires a particular stitch for closing the work, known as the weaving stitch or the kitchner Notice that the front needle holds Thread long yarn end in yarn Mi ef outer knit stitches and the other needle. Insert yarn needle (as if to stitch. You will need needle holds inner purl stitches (as they knit) into first stitch on front needle and face yen), slide stitch off needle. a blunt-tipped yarn needle to do it. aknit closing When the last row of tubular knitting is done, cut yarn, leaving an end long enough for weaving stitches together. Slip stitches off knitting needle; stitches will automatically separate into, a frontand a back section; put a needle into each group of stitches. 3 * Insert yarn needle into first 2 stitches on back needle, entering stitches as if to purl, then let both stitches slide off back needle. 4 Bring yarn needle back to front needle, entering from front to back of first stitch (dropped from needle in step 2), then insert needle in next knit stitch as if to purl and slide both stitches from front needle. t 7D ) AYN ay INIA (} ) Ne Return to back needle, enter from far back (exterior) into stitch that was just dropped from needle in step 4 and into next stitch from interior out back, letting it drop off needle. Repeat from * across, weaving all stitches together. yi ae 2)closing the tubular stitch spurl closing Insert threaded yarn needle as if to knit into first stitch on front needle and slide it off needle. Bring yarn needle back to front needle, entering from interior into front stitch dropped in step 1, then enter next stitch on front needle from front to interior, sliding it off front needle, Continue repeating from *, weaving all stitches together. 2 * Return to back needle, entering first stitch on interior of work as if to knit and slide it off back needle. Insert yarn needle into next stitch from back to interior and let it slide off back needle. Closing with a Single Needle Closing tubular knit can also be done leaving your work on only 1 needle. The method is similar and may be easier to follow for some knitters. First, cut off yarn, leaving long end for working; yarn end emerges from second stitch (back stitch). Thread yarn end into yarn needle. 1 Insert yarn needle from exterior (knit side of stitch) through first stitch, then second stitch from interior (purl side of stitch), and slide both stitches off knit- ting needle. Insert yam needle from exterior into first front stitch just dropped and from interior on next stitch on knitting needle, and slide both stitches off knitting needle. Continue in this manner, entering stitch just dropped from exterior and next stitch on needle from intefior, and dropping both stitches, until all stitches are worked off. at Fes a EM a a LY ERA ay arsingle and double increases To increase means to add one or more stitches to your work. The increases can be divided between internal, within the current edges of the piece, and external, which are made at the sinternal increases Single increase. Ue te Y Y BARN ri} \ et ae at i SR Ny S= - z Knit same stitch twice, first through front loop as aval then with stitch still on left edges of the work, either needle; reach behind work to knit into back loop of same stitch (working 2 stitches in 1); at the beginning or at the end of a row. ; ie Aes). Y A oh ree aN YR a AWA iM \e aoe A A HA aN) YR [\ +) Inictrate toward the right. With tp ¥ right needle, ate knit stitch on needle You can also increase pal stitches working into stitch and one below it. SSS Knit. To make this yarn over, bring yarn forward over needle and wrap it around to back, making a loop on needle; on next row, work loop as stitch. slide old stitch from left needle. You can also increase purl stitches by purling into front and back of same stitch. po iN MA Ay Re Val ' ze) = <= oti = \ uN Cea A Increase toward the left. Knit stitch on needle as usual without sliding it off needle, then, with tip of left needle, lift stitch beneath one just worked and knit it. You can also increase purl stitches this way, Z2 Sr Purl. Wrap yarn up over needle and return it to front under needle, forming loop; on next row, work loop as stitch. See page 12 for more ways to make a yarn over,single and double increases External Increases Vay Wa OY) is \ 4 VARTA YAY) Increase of more than 2 stitches at beginning of row Insert right needle into first stitch on left needle and Make knit stitch in this added stitch and slide it back make knit stitch; keep old stitch in place and slide onto left needle as before. Continue to add stitches added stitch back onto left needle next to it. to left needle in this way until you have desired number. SUV ee aed KA ALANAN YAY AY yRY RNA Increase of more than 2 stitches at end N row At end of row, wrap yarn around right thumb and index finger to form a ring; insert right needle to transfer ring to needle. Repeat until you have increased desired number of stitches. ES ee sins aa aa FART TAR Peo ree ED, Invisible increase on knit rows. Use tip of left needle to 5 Invisible increase on purl rows. Use tip of left needle to pick up strand of yarn that connects stitch on right pick up strand of yarn connecting stitch on right needle to needle to next one on left needle. next one on left needle, putting it on left needle. Knit this stitch in twisted fashion, inserting needle into Purl this stitch in twisted fashion, inserting needle into back back loop to knit it, loop to purl it. 24symmetrical increases These increases are generally used to add a certain number of stitches on the inside of the work. These have various decorative effects and are normally made every other row on the front of your work. = double invisible increase With tip of right needle, lift conneeting stand of yarn just before center stitch and place resulting loop onto left needle; knit this new stitch in twisted manner (through back loop). Knit center stitch; repeat with connecting yarn just after center stitch. srepeated double increase re center one and then make left increase in nsert left needle into stitch to pull up knit the loop as stitch. Knit center stitch, then make right increase as follows: Insert right needle into next stitch to pull up strand under this stitch and knit it. Knit stitch on needle. sdouble open-work increase Knit to center stitch, make a yarn over (see page 12). Knit center stitch, make another yarn over, On next row, work yarn-over loops as stitches. by, TS NRO WN, YY RS AN SIZ \ eg i ss ot S >. ZS. 7 r< A $ o< SS Ed tA {A DB sae sk ae SS A ow 5 LIT Ns Vs EF? Lud, 25symmetrical increases ) 2 \ ZB \ VY \ Te s inserted increase with holes y Knit to center stitch, then with right needle pull up connecting strand between stitch just worked and center; place this loop onto left needle and knit it as stitch. Knit center stitch, then pull up next connecting strand as before and knit it. ‘SS Ly Pr BN ARAN Wy AY SY Ra wee SARS DR) WS SS RE WA y Leg ie q py A Sy \ he SS Zeek e SS SSS 2o2 SSS Wik o SY iY AN K< 2 hk i NN Simple single Single beaded Increase by knitting into front, then back of same stitch Knit a stitch, leaving it on left needle, and then bring yarn (see page 23). Symmetry is obtained by working the increase _ forward to purl back loop of same stitch; return yarn to back on the 3rd stitch from the beginning of the row and on 4th to continue knitting. Symmetry is obtained by working stitch from end of row. (NOTE: The first and last stitches on increase on 3rd stitch from beginning of row and on 3rd stitch the row are shown as slip stitches in these illustrations and from end. elsewhere in the book.) Single inserted Single open-work With left needle, pull up connecting strand between last Increase by making a yarn over (see page 12). stitch on right needle and next one on left needle, and knit it. Symmetry is obtained by working increase after third stitch Symmetry is obtained by working increase after 3rd stitch __at beginning of the row and just before third stitch from end of at beginning of row and just before 3d stitch from end of row. row. 26single and double decreases Decreases, used for shaping the sweater, can be internal (within a row) or external (at the edges). They can be used to shape side seams, armholes, sleeves, and neck opening. sinternal decreases Decrease 2 knit stitches together (k2tog) These can be done at any point during the work. Insert right needle into first 2 stitches on left needle and Knit stitches However, decreasing within a row does not alter together as one. This decrease will slant right. the selvage edge; it may require adjustments to If you knit 2 stitches together through back loops, they will be twisted, keep continuity of a fancy pattern stitch, making a decorative decrease that slants left. Decrease 2 purl stitches together (p2tog) Knit stitch with slip stitch seed over (psso) Insert right needle into first 2 stitches on the needle and Slip stitch as if to knit, without knitting it, to right needle, purl stitches together as one. On following knit row, decrease and knit next stitch on left needle. (Or slip stitch as if to purl, as will slant right. shown, for a twisted stitch decrease, if you prefer.) With tip of left needle, lift slipped stitch, pass it over knitted stitch, and let it drop from needle. Decrease will slant left. Knit 2 Together with Slip Stitch Passed Over To decrease 2 stitches at any point in work, slip a stitch as if to knit, without knitting it, to right needle; then knit next 2 stitches together as one (k2tog). Lift slipped stitch over k2tog and let it drop from needle.single and double decreases Purl stitch with unworked stitch passed Double slip stitch passed over yarn over For decrease, purl stitch as usual, then slide new stitch Slip 2 stitches onto right needle without knitting them, back onto left needle. then make yarn over, With tip of right needle, lift second (unworked) stitch on Lift 2 slipped stitches up and over yarn over. left needle up and over first (worked) stitch and let it drop off needle. Slide first stitch back to right needle. Binding Off (External Decreases of Multiple Stitches) UH WAY WAN) 4 M A ) On Knit Row On Purl Row Knit first 2 stitches. With tip of left needle, lift first stitch Work as for knit row, but purl stitches. worked over second and drop it (first decrease made), knit next stitch, and repeat process until all desired decreases are a sf ( AY f made. If you are binding off all stitches, work to end of row; cut off yarn and draw yarn end through last stitch to tighten. With Unfinished Stitches To avoid unattractive jogs when stitches are bound off in successive steps, work across row to where stitches are to be bound off. *Turn work without binding off. Keeping the unworked stitches on needle, slip first stitch on left needle ~. (shown as twisted stitch on diagram), work to end of row. > Turn and work back to where next set of stitches was to be bound off; repeat from * until all stitches to be bound off are excluded. Bind off all the stitches left on left needle. Or you can knit across them all and place them on a holder to weave them to the adjoining edge (as for a shoulder).symmetrical decreases 1 These decrease stitches are widely used for shaping raglan sleeves or corners or ona border when you make decreases on both sides of a central stitch. decreases Slanting left on knit rows On each decrease row, always work same number of stitches at edge (before or after 2-stitch decrease is made) to give uniform and symmetric edge. Work decrease on 2 stitches as follows: slip | stitch, knit 1 stitch, pass slip stitch over knit | and drop it. Slanting left on purl rows Slanting right on knit rows Keeping uniform edges, decrease by purling 2 stitches Keeping uniform edges, decrease by knitting 2 stitches together as one. together as one. 4 Slanting right on purl rows The illustration shows symmetrical decreases, slanting Keeping uniform edges, decrease on 2 stitches as follows: left at the beginning edge and right at ending edge. They purl first stitch and return it to lefi needles with tip of right can be worked on either the right or wrong side of work. They needle, lift next stitch (unworked) on left needle and pass it should be in opposite directions on same row and all rows on over worked stitch and drop it from right needle. Slip worked one project should be consistent to look symmetrical. stitch back to right needle. 29symmetrical decreases 1 sa double decreases with central rib stitch 1 Slanting left on knit rows Slanting right on knit rows Work decrease in center of piece on 3 stitches by Insert right needle, starting with third stitch on left knitting 3 stitches together through back of stitches; decrease _ needle, then second and first stitches, to knit them together as will form a twisted stitch. 1 stitch. ‘N QRS) NE 7 LOS DOWIE LPIA PEO OW Logo Double slip stitch slanting right GS \ VG RR l LEAIN RAR ARY LMS 3 Pass slip stitch over decrease on knit rows 4 Decrease on 3 stitches by slipping 1 stitch to right Decrease on 3 stitches as follows: Slip first stitch to right needle without working it, knit next 2 stitches together as needle without working it, knit next stitch, then pass slipped one (k2tog); then with left needle lift slipped stitch up and —_ stitch over one just worked and drop it from right needle over k2tog, letting it drop off needle. Return worked stitch to left needle and pass next stitch (unworked) on left needle over worked one and drop it. Slide remaining stitch back to right needle. Vd Double Slip Stitch with Vertical Center Decrease on 3 stitches as follows: Insert right needle through both center stitch and first stitch as if to knit them together and slip them both onto right needle without knitting them. Knit next stitch on left needle, then pass slipped stitches over knitted one; remaining stitch becomes a new center stitch. This decrease is good for a V neck. 30symmetrical decreases 2 sdecorative symmetrical decreases == oe: = oS SSS = > i SS Crossed with right slanting edge on knit rows Crossed with left slanting edge (worked on purl rows) Keeping a uniform number of stitches (usually 2 or 3) Keeping uniform edge, decrease on 3 stitches as follows; at edge, decrease on 3 stitches as follows: skip first stitch Skip first stitch and, with right needle, purl second and third and, with right needle, reach behind work to knit second stitches together as one without sliding them off left needle; and third stitches together as one (stitches are twisted), purl first (skipped) stitch. Slide worked stitches off left needle. then knit first (skipped) stitch as usual. Slide worked On knit side of work, edge slants left. stitches off left needle. One stitch has been decreased. Lacy knit with right slanting edge on knit rows 4 Lacy knit with left slanting edge (worked on purl Keeping edge uniform, decrease on 3 stitches as rows) follows: Bring yarn forward, slip next stitch without Keeping edge uniform, work decrease on 3 stitches as working it, wrap yarn over needle to back (forming yarn follows: Wrap yarn back over needle and return to front to over: yo), insert right needle as if to knit into second, then form yarn over (yo), slip next stitch without working it, purl first stitch on left needle and knit the 2 stitches together as next 2 stitches together as one (p2tog); pass slip stitch over one (k2tog); pass slip stitch over k2tog and let it drop from p2tog and let it drop from needle. Work yo over as a stitch needle. Work yo as a stitch on next row. on next row, 31symmetrical decreases 2 Knitted Double Decrease ASAT) WYNN \YXYIYAYANL NNN AINA AWNANIANY NOYATIIATAALAT AWN VAYIYIYINIYA TAA MYSIMS J YO AY Make left siant by knitting a uniform number of stitches: (2 or 3, as shown) at edge, then knit 3 stitches together in a twisted manner (through back). NATLIAYAYAYAY A) ATALAYATATALAYAL AI TATATAYATAYAYLY. oy WY Make right slant by knitting to within 3 stitches of edge stitches, then knit (through front) 3 stitches together as one; knit edge stitches. Purl Stitch Decrease on Knit Rows Make left slant by knitting edge stitches, then purt 2 stitches together as one. 32 Make right slant by knitting to within 2 stitches of edge, then purl 2 stitches together as one, knit edge stitches.Knitting is generally finished by binding off the stitches following the pattern of the piece (knit stitches are knitted and purl stitches are purled) and working just loosely enough to keep the elasticity of the work. binding off | a lark (YH YR WENN sbinding off (knit stitch) Knit 2 stitches, then, with tip of left needle, lift first stitch and pass it over second stitch; drop it from needle, Knit next stitch and repeat procedure; repeat across row to last stitch. To fasten off, see Text page. s binding off (purl stitch) Purl 2 stitches, then, with left needle, pass first stitch over second and drop it. Purl next stitch and repeat procedure; repeat across row to last stitch, To fasten off, see next page. = "slanted binding off Use for smoothly-shaped edge when you bind a few stitches on several rows for shaping (as for neck or shoulder shaping). Bind off on every other row: Bind off first set of stitches; on return row, leave last stitch (unworked) on left needle (see illustration), Turn work. On next (bind off) row, unworked stitch is now on right needle, work next stitch and pass unworked stitch over it for first bound-off stitch, Complete binding off. Binding off for right edge is worked on knit (or right side) rows; binding off for left edge is worked on purl (or wrong side) rows.binding off «slanted turned binding off Use as for slanted binding off. On every other row work to stitches ) i Ls TRE you want to bind off, bring yarn to 9] ale) NO y= —— front of work, slip one stitch, take yarn Ni) i ath \\ WY ay = to back and return slipped stitch to left A) r & needle without knitting it. HA) | Ay ry Wy Turn work and work back across AA i} ART a/N0 HA now shortened row. Ns Wy r\\ 4 Oi=\¢@ AY rah | Repeat procedure until all stitches are done, then bind them all off at same time, ee a a = a NWA YEW) "twisted binding off AVA AYARA a AER Knit first 2 stitches together as one in twisted manner (through back loops). * Slip resulting stitch back on left needle and knit it together with following stitch. Repeat from * across row. 1] Son rN 1} NY, RY VY, An AAV nN rR y AWA | AY AY, A) AY) AAT ANAVAVAYAN WARN HAVANA Wve vy 1 After binding off all stitches, cut yarn Thread yarn end in yarn needle and and pass yarn end through loop of last weave it into back of stitches along ver- stitch, then gently pull it to secure. tical edge for a few inches.\ ; Like other neck x | & / openings, this one A \\ VALAK can be finished by NAN vy AN) knitting up or by IWAN i] TINNY sewing the edges. Both need to be done with great care so they lie flat <= yg SS << =< = => > eae Ss ~ SSS De ee SS ee Yj SS ; SLs VA =, — SSS ea e Pe — a — oo “So oS, r 3 > = EE: = ae PS. SS without stretching. SS oe >S 2a Ss xe SSS x 2 a SS = SP 23 = A\ sv neck with k1, pi ribbing On first row of V-neck shaping, place center stitch on a safety pin to hold until needed. Work each side of neck separately with a separate ball of yarn. Decrease | stitch on each side every 2 or 4 rows, just before or after the edge stitches at each neck edge. When all decreases are completed, work even (keeping same number of stitches) until you finish shoulders. Pick up stitches along each neck edge (see page 51) and place them on needles so needles meet tip to tip. (A double-pointed (dp) needle may facilitate this.) Vig ANY DS AEN NG PK Zin We SYA Mi HANS _gN WYN YAN CANN) Yi AAR _ SAAN HAASE Ny) Da IROL NAVAN NAN AN vy Nay N AW NAT RAN WN) UNNI VN YN abs Work border in k1, p1 ribbing as follows: On right side Knit center stitch; on next needle, knit together 2 rows, knit together the 2 stitches that precede the center stitches following center stitch; work in ribbing as stitch, Transfer center stitch from holder to a dp needle. established to end. On wrong side rows, work as established, purling together 2 stitches (decrease made) before center stitch. Purl center stitch, then next stitch. Slip this last stitch back to left needle, slip next stitch on left needle over it (another decrease); slip decrease stitch back to right needle and continue ribbing as established. 35v neck a & 3 = 2 3 $s ° front is being worked, work each neck edge separately from \V to shoulder. Work back and forth in k1, p1 ribbing (no decreases) for the desired width. Bind off all stitches in rib- bing. At V, overlap ends and neatly stitch in place with yarn For assembled garment, pick up stitches around entire neck and yarn needle. edge with circular needle, starting and ending at V. If only g as follows: ght side rows, center stitch ce 2 center stitches on a holder. To work neckband, ick up stitches and work k2, p2 ribbin first center stitch and first center stitches to a dp needle. On ri ich before Tas one. la er as su 23 Pl pi sv neck with k2, p2 ribbing Transfe1 knit sti togeth ] ig it drop. Work in 2 ones just before and after mn, 2 stitches, then rib to end, ig it. Work next stitch and pass skipped stitch over it, lett Jn wrong side rows, work to 4 center stitches (includin, stitches together in a twisted fashion; purl together next Skip next center stitch without knittin, first 2 ribbing as established to end of row. C original two), purl 36polo neck This is the classic neck opening used for sports garments. ONY QUAY) UL NAYAAYA Ms AYA) SAMA MATA KUEN) YAY) TETRA, DAYAR IYAY) WX) NALA DALI. NATTY) RU AY, QUAY AA SATAY CYIVAISTATY UX DAD CRAY UY A YON SY AAD SATA COV UT COI LATA AAA MATAR ANANINANENINONTAINENINA OTA A) SONIA VOY YOA) LATS Te? 4 ALAA <> AU WAVANEVARIAIV ONE PAYA OD NAVARA LAY COO TOYA ATRL YOU At center front, bind off desired number of stitches (opening should be about | inch/2'4 cm wide). Attaching separate yarn for each side, work evenly (without decreasing) on each side to neck shaping. Shape neck and complete shoulders. Work stitches in kl, p1 ribbing until border width is about half the width of panel opening, Make 3 evenly-spaced buttonholes on. next row as follows: Yarn over (yo) needle, work next 2 stitches together as one. On next row, work yo asa stitch, continuing to rib as established until border is same width as opening. Bind off. Hie N\ SS SS es <== = Pie re >> > tot SS SSS SS = Too Chet et fanz s% 2 > > nt ee det ae ae —~ SS Se >= Sieg eee er ee ee ee ee Se SSS SS SS = === SSS SS Ca = S SSS VSS — i eee 33353353353 Soe Sty soo rt a tet thy teeta ee be a LS ry 7 EERIE as pick up stitches double-pointed r one), leaving stitches of 2 borders free. ese . Al ie NF a Be 2 —_ - ri bak See ee : = eee ye PY iS ees SS ASRS Nan yer e =— SS ATA TIAA IONE AROMA Aa: =: ARENVNANENEY US BED PE {Lead ag TEES 24 AY Biya AVE Vt GUNS Wee ee ee ears Zé (hy) NEES ea SEN ENENEN SRN erereseeeee EE NEN RY AEN Ea Vi YON REDS eS === A VRE ey Eye Ro £7 a = i ae ey Ss S s bs —< zo ere 225, ZX SS SO eS See eee LE LORD Y SR meee ceereeteeee BSS CHIN OPP Sees =SSos> SSesoesee | CO EE FANS) =s2s=ce =< oo Pe o i 4 d S Ses See iS I SPS = SSS 2&ee AR Soacso= SSSss=sss5 g oy pS eS Se eS ee eS 3 j —— Pte \O 2 . Py) xx PUL tr a Gio a 4 x. : Bagd aa ee TA CREA SEERA RR Ce Ss * Fi a Ah a =s eee aay wey *. Aa = - fo = y RE. = ev Yy On wrong side, neatly sew bottom of solid (button) 5 border on top of first one, tt > ( ie } / ih y aS » i aa | ) Re OI \ width desired. Bind off loosely, or knit last 4 closing stitches with yarn needle. Work collar in kL, pl ribbing for rows in tubular stitch, as shown, 7 38square neck The square neck is a true classic of knitted garments. The neck edge is filled in with a knitted-on decorative border. eat The sailor collar YY TAVT YAN HN AYALA ALN YANNI YL A version has a border made as the collar is l Place stitches for neck opening (including those needed . for side borders) onto holder to be worked later. Work knitted. remaining stitches on each side with separate yarn to complete shoulders. Use crochet hook to pick up stitches for border and transfer them to double-pointed (dp) needles, using a dp needle for each edge. Work stitches in k1, p| ribbing, designating a center knit stitch for each corner. Work 3 stitches at each corner (corner stitch and ones just before and after) as follows: Insert needle into first 2 stitches as if to knit them together and slip them without working them onto another dp needle. Knit next stitch and pass 2 slipped stitches over it (corner stitch remains), Repeat at each corner. Oo Repeat these decreases every other row for border width. Bind off or knit last 2 rows in a tubular stitch, as shown, closing stitches with a yarn needle. 39square neck The Sailor Collar A square neck is suitable for a sailor collar. Starting with the desired (uneven) number of stitches for the collar, work in moss stitch (k1, *p1, k1; repeat across on each row), or other simple pattern for about 2 inch (1 cm). Keeping first and last 12 inch (3. or 5 stitches) in pattern stitch, work remaining center stitches in stockinette stitch (knit 1 row, purl 1 row) until piece measures 3 to 4 inches (8 to 10 cm) from beginning row. Now start pattern stitch edge for neck opening, including side borders and keeping all borders the same width. When front neck border is worked, bind off center stitches for neck opening, leaving side neck borders. Work each side separately. \ \ BCT UY) ag ye POCO OO ry ioe Ty Work other side of collar to correspond. Then, between 2 sides, cast on enough stitches to replace those bound off. Work back of collar to correspond to front. irik POCA (yay Working on one side, keep pattern as established until neck opening is completed. ee oF UAT Naa NOT ANA Aa PNY a oh 4 When collar is completed, bind off all stitches in pattern. Attach collar to garment with hidden stitches.round neck =sround neck This is the neck opening most widely used in knitting. It can be finished by knitting a neckband or by NYY theo INYO AY Wi IVINIQTATNENININADANGNINY YAP = aA) attaching a collar made to fit the neck opening of Determine the desired size and number of stitches to be reduced for neck the completed opening (multiply inches/cm by gauge). To start opening on front, bind off half the number of stitches to be reduced at center of row. Working one side at time, garment. decrease remaining stitches (half on each side) by binding off | or 2 stitches every other row until you have completed decreases. Complete shoulder. With a crochet hook, pick up stitches around neck You can also pick up stitches directly with needles by opening by keeping yarn at back of work and holding yarn at back to wrap each stitch; divide stitches, inserting hook into center of each stitch; draw up a loop equally onto 4 dp needles. and transfer it to needle (double-pointed or circular needles are easiest for working neckband). Work in k1, pl ribbing for desired number of rows. Bind off in ribbing, or work last few rows in tubular stitch as shown; close stitches with yarn needle.round neck Pin border in place around neck opening with colored edge just overlapping garment. With matching yarn and yarn needle, neatly sew border to neck edge, sewing stitch by stitch (with backstitch) around last matching row of stitches. Be sure loop of each stitch is attached to neck edge. 2 3 When finished sewing, undo contrasting color rows. - a z ° a 3 3s ‘a Q < = 3 : 2 3 g 3 So & Work shaping for round neck as described on previous Simple border in k1, p1 ribbing width. Finish with several added rows of stockinette stitch stitch, then working stitches in k1, p1 ribbing for desired worked in contrasting color yarn. page. Then determine number of stitches needed for border to fit neck opening. Make border by starting it with tubular 1neck openings, shoulders, and sleeves 1 Properly done neck openings and shoulders help determine the elegance and success of a knitted garment. The style of their shape depends on the yarn you are using and the function of the garment you want to knit. =srounded sleeves Rounded sleeves are traditional and widely used; they can be adapted to many types of garments. Sometimes the armhole is bigger on front, but usually the front and back are equal. To calculate stitches you need to decrease for armholes, subtract stitches for shoulders and neck opening from total number of ditches on front or back, thén divide Round Armhole for a Vest number of remaining stitches by 2: these or Sleeveless Sweater will be stitches to decrease for each armhole. Start by binding off 3 or 4 When you are knitting a Ane stitches at once, then 2 stitches, and Slonvelens sweater wiih NAVA = seae tatttcke. a finished edge, the WY) finally decrease 1 stitch every other row armiiole needs torte’ nN until you decrease the desired number of bigger to accommodate A stitches, For sleeve shaping, make the the armhole band. YN same decreases indicated for front and back (if front and back differ, match one edge to front, one to back; reverse for other sleeve). Then continue to round top of sleeve by decreasing | stitch every other row on each edge. Make these decreases symmetrically until curve of top is adapted to that of armhole and has, reached desired length. Bind off all remaining stitches. Armholes of the front and back will be same if the front and back of the sweater are the same. If the front of the sweater is larger than the back, half of the stitches to be reduced should be bound off at beginning of each armhole. SSS Poo eS EEE ELSE ESSneck openings, shoulders, and sleeves 1 sraglan sleeves Raglan sleeves are often used for sports garments and rather heavy garments. To calculate the number of stitches to decrease on front or back (which Y) usually are equal), divide number of IN stitches into 3 parts: 1 slightly smaller NN part for neck opening and 2 equal parts wy) for shoulders. The number of stitches WY) for each “shoulder” is the number of AYKYS decreases needed for each armhole. UN Start by binding off 3 or 4 stitches once NN at each edge, then continue decreasing 1 WAYS stitch on each side every other row, y NANA a leaving desired number of edge stitches YIN AA before and after each decrease. You will y AYN) be eliminating all stitches (but edge UK UAVAYAYIYA VY stitches) as you complete neck and YA AAV LY) } UA YN) raglan shaping. Work raglan sleeves to YN AAYAMYINAN Ny) correspond. Start shaping with enough Y NAA ty) stitches on needle to be able to decrease VAYAYINETAYIY HA the same number of stitches at raglan sleeve edges as were decreased for raglan armholes of back and front, plus a few stitches for neck opening edge (enough for about 12 inches/4 cm). When raglan shaping is completed, bind off remaining stitches. Classic Shoulders For a custom fit and finish, shape back shoulders and leave front shoulder edge straight. Instead of binding off back shoulder stitches in steps as usual and connecting shoulders with a seam, work as follows: Omit any front shoulder shaping and place all front shoulder stitches on a holder. On back shoulder, work shaping rows as usual, but instead of binding off the stitches, transfer them to double point- ed (dp) needle, using separate needle for each step. Transfer front stitches from holder to a needle and, using weaving stitch (see pages 21-22), join edges together in an invisible seam.neck openings, shoulders, and sleeves 2 ssaddie sleeves Work front and back armholes like regular armholes until 1-1 inches (24-4 em) shorter than normal length to shoulder; top of shoulder is covered by upper part of saddle sleeve. ‘Top of sleeve is shaped in usual rounded manner until only enough stitches (measuring 2 to 3 inches/5 to 7/4 cm across) remain to fill out omitted shoulder sections of front and back. Mark last row worked with safety pin. Continue working these stitches until piece measures (from marker) the same as shoulder edge of front or back to neck opening, Bind off stitches. This bound- Spor eee ab EERE 22 L277. off edge will be part of neck opening. AAA] This type of sleeve nicely shapes A Mth shoulders and can have a decorative look ti if worked in contrasting colors or with a ‘vaveven vertical stripe. h) AM MARA! ) WNT NM Wy sraglan without sewing This type of raglan is good for baby clothes, because there are fewer lumpy seams. Knit front (or 2 fronts), back, and 2 sleeves separately until you reach armholes. Arrange pieces as shown and distribute all stitches onto double- pointed needles, placing markers on needle to indicate start of each section. Knit around if front is a single unit, or knit back and forth in rows if front is divided in two (a circular needle can also be used in this case). Make decreases regularly on each section, within edge stitches for section, (Always work edge stitches in stockinette st regardless of pattern stitch used for rest of garment.) At end, bind off neck stitches and sew side and underarm seams, 45neck openings, shoulders, and sleeves 2 =semi-raglan sleeves Armholes on front and back are worked as classic raglan on lower half as follows: desired number of stitches once side, then decrease | stitch on cach side every 2 (or 4) rows, leaving desired number of edge stitches before and after decreases; work until armhole is half desired length to shoulder. Now work even (without decreases) to shoulders. Shape shoulders, binding off in several steps. On sleeves, work armhole deer same as for front and back, then bind off all remaining stitches. Semi-raglan sleeve is good for sports garments; it unites the practicality of raglan sleeve to the shape of rounded sleeve. Open Shoulders On both front and back, work neck shaping as usual, then work shoulders as follows: Leaving 2 edge stitches beyond decrease, decrease at neck edge every row until all stitches (but edge stitches) are decreased; bind off edge stitches. Work neckband as desired, then, at armhole edge, overlap shoulder flaps as shown to finish. Buttoned Shoulders Work back shoulder shaping using sianted binding off (see page 28) as follows: Start shaping about 1% inch (1 cm) below normal and work off an even a third of the shoulder stitches every other row 3 times. Finish neck and shoulder edges with k2, p2 ribbing on back and front. Work small buttonhoies on front shoulder ribbing. Sew buttons on back to correspond, jwristbands 1 Wristbands are the typical edge for the long sleeves of a sweater. They can be made as you knit the sleeve or by picking up the stitches after the sleeve is done. Double knitting them makes them sturdy. uawristband made by picking up stitches 1 Cast on sleeve stitches with contrasting color yarn. When sleeve is completed, use yarn needle to undo stitches of beginning row, passing them onto knitting needle as you undo them. 49 Jaa SBA) “Weel 2 Making a few evenly-spaced decreases, if desired, on first row, work wristband in ribbing or double knitting. When wristband is the desired length, bind off stitches as usual in pattern, or for tubular knits, use yarn needle as if to purl on both layers to close edge. =wristband in k1, p1 ribbing AOI A KATO XY ONIN OA YALA SAA AY AA) DY XY ANAL ALAR ALA LLL? OTA ALAY LL (YSU DOMINALAT ALLAN YANO AAA CONST? oA a ah a Ya a NVENU MINOT INO IO EE VUE AA AA WEAN ENR a AWA YEA aC AY Cast on an uneven number of stitches and work in ki, pl ribbing for length desired (generally 2-4 inches/5-10 cm; fuller sleeve needs longer length). When ribbing work is completed, continue working sleeve. To seam wristband edges, sew as if to purl, picking up a stitch for each side. =swristband in k2, p2 ribbing ANN oA RR YY PRU Cast on a number of stitches in multiples of 4 + 2. Work in k2, p2 ribbing, beginning and ending each right side row with 2 knit stitches, for desired length, then continue on sleeve. To finish, sew wristband edges, using yarn needle as if to purl, picking up a stitch from each side for an invisible seam, 47wristbands 1 wristband with full sleeve Cast on desired number (uneven number) of stitches to work ina kl, pl ribbing; work to desired length, ‘To work sleeve, knit evenly-spaced increases on first row as awristband with a cord Good for baby clothes, this is worked by casting on the number of stitches for the desired width of the sleeve; no additional increases will be needed. follows: * knit 3 stitches, insert tip of right needle under strand of yarn connecting last worked stitch to the next one and transter it to left needle. Knit this loop as a stitch in the twisted manner. * Repeat from * to across row. On next row, purl all stitches. For a less full sleeve, work more stitches between increases. l Knit 3 rows (garter stitch), then continue for about 4 inch (1'4 cm) in stockinette stitch, ending with purl row, Next row: Work eyelets as follows: Knit first stitch, * work yarn over (yo), knit 2 stitches together *; repeat from * across row, ending with knit stitch. Purl next row, working yo loops as stitches, ) LAA) () YANN , When garment is completed, weave a yarn cord or ribbon through eyelets at wrists for tie. { How To Make a Twisted Cord Cut 3 or 4 strands of yarn, each cut to a length three times as long as you want the finished cord to be, Holding strands together, fold them in half and tie 2 ends together to form a long loop; hook knotted end over door knob or hook. Stretch this loop to its limit and, at looped end, insert a pencil; twist yarns, making them rotate in same direction. When strands are well twisted, fold them in the middle (with both ends together); the yarns will rotate automatically to form the cord. Bind ends with a small knot. 48wristbands 2 swristband with a straight border Prepare opening: Cast on a third of the stitches needed for first sleeve row, cast on 2 more stitches for opening edge; with separate ball of yarn, cast on 2 stitches, then remaining two- thirds of stitches. Work each part separately for about 2 inches (5. cm). On next row, join sections, binding off the 2 added stitches at each opening edge and working across remaining YAY YAAYA Wh iW Ny Make wristband: Along bottom edge of sleeve, pick up stitches for wristband, casting on a few extra stitches at one end for overlap. Knit a few rows (garter stitch) and work a buttonhole on a middle row on the overlap (yarn over, k2 stitches together). Complete band and bind off all stitches. Sew on button. stitches with same yarn. Complete sleeve, sew sleeve seam, then turn under opening edges and sew in place on wrong side. Work other sleeve to correspond, reversing position of parts. awristband with shaped border l Cast on sleeve and opening stitches as above, working underlying selvage edge on added opening in double chain stitch (see below), i working 2 small buttonholes along opening edge and shaping at corner as follows: On each right side row, knit to corner, increase | stitch, knit corner stitch, inerease | stitch, knit to end; on wrong side rows, purl corner stitch and knit all other stitches. When band is completed, bind off all stitches. AVY AYA VAYAVAYIY IVY Ys ; i YIN NAYES |[ D. Tovorkborer pickup stiches YNNANA X) ih EA edge. Knit each row (garter stitch), ‘J Cd Place front edge (with border) overlapping back opening edge. 2 With yarn and yarn needle, neatly sew edges together on wrong side. Sew on buttons. Selvage in double chain stitch: On knit rows, slip edge stitch without knitting it, purl the stitch next to it. On purl rows, purl both stitches. 49ga reece ey es wristbands 2 =sewn on wristband . Pelt Cast on enough stitches for twice aS eodos the desired band width (band will . SSSR be folded in half); work in stockinette LY TS SH stitch (knit | row, purl 1 row). 4 RET SH Ct When band almost fits wrist edge of Le pt sleeve, shape end as follows: Decrease | stitch at beginning and end of each row; at the same time, make 2 buttonholes on | row, each buttonhole the same distance in outer edges. Gently ease edges so the sleeve fits unshaped length of wristband with point extended, 3 wristband in half, right sides together, and sew shaped tip edges with purl stitches. Connecting with Invisible Sewing Work on right side of work, sewing between edge attaching edges of stock- Stitch and next stitch, work inette stitch pieces, or stitchion one side of seam, pieces in pattern stitch then on other side being with stockinette stitch joined. Alternate from side edge stitches. to side, carefully drawing Attach yarn and thread yarn through to make it in yarn needle, Always edges meet perfectly. 4 Turn wristband right side out, fold it half lengthwise, and sew band edge in place along sleeve joining on wrong side. Sew short straight ends of the wristband together with invisible stitches, Sew buttonhole edges together with buttonhole stitch; sew button to opposite end of band to correspond. 30collars 1 The collar completes and refines the neck opening of a garment. It can have a variety of shapes depending on the fashion style of the moment and the chosen pattern. «turtleneck With a crochet hook, pick desired number of stitches around neck opening, Good for outdoor garments, such as transferring them to a double pointed (dp) needle as you go; divide stitches ski sweaters, it is worked on a rather large round neck opening. With the fifth Bind off stitches in ribbing, then fold turtleneck in half for desired length, to wrong side of work. Turn garment inside out and sew turtleneck edge to neck edge. DEL Me Nctl eon ees Turtleneck A turtleneck can also be folded toward the right side of a garment after binding off stitches loosely, or knitting the last few rows with needles one size larger. OSA AYN NAAR i j i TANTRA TAYIVRY CANAAN RAT 51 \ Y LAY DIINO LOA PAVA TL CLIEI LLAt end of next row (front edge), cast on same number of stitches as he collars 1 scollar with simple lapels This collar is good for jackets. To have it come out well, make an actual-sized paper pattern, clearly and precisely marking pattern for beginning of V il stitches in moss stitch, work even unti 27 Complete and assemble just bound off on last row, Working new 2 & Ea S ae s gs 2 8 * arc on 2g =) a2 S38 i, = 225 Mee eerie a a54 Bh rc ork Road Le S 25 > (RI eet Ee = a6 ao Sts bs gee £= ee ab oS fe ERs “aE eon Bo 1 243 ep SsEo Bac B..Goos ea 2s "n 2S a “ 2 ots 2 Oo race 234 og 8) ug Efu0s_ ese wee 4g 8% ey Ve = = 4 svehe sys Zegee 525 OAR STI ee ee cts VRS ae aes oe ee a5 Sorc g Soo 5% = 25 ,. £4 SoS eS ee = 223g +2 ‘S3SSS—S=S= =: or ees S76 . £Neptles s hae 2 om ot We GS > eee # e384 oe ot ey oe a a ap a elses SEE SSS SS cin oe ae Ss CBee a E =e ss es o ee eh NEE uf eee SS -— a 8 4 @ io sa B re BGS 8 ale og 2B: o Su =e ee Be iG. 44 op Se So. op 2 aay geo Sue. eeese one a(9OU b @ 6c & g Scoeeeeke eG geigee3 < fice eee Pee S8se2eRE=E Ss ae a ee) LEseeses 3 SPos e-em a ot aa =. a 4 Sm Ey we as iB ee géete = 26.5 woe g 4eSeBeee 4 2 = Seg eezes eeteseeis s cekeoec? gh gursges = See me ees Subs ue Gee & rSEHEegse= ef2F 8S an5 a. Heese 8 Ses See Le am So a DA on Ss ne = abegess a 6 Sue eee es 22-5555 08 = foge fas Sgaeueeat Spots tes ZBeoae use s | a See 28 85 HSee eee ag ¥ fie Seo Se a5 822 Es % SERe U8 og Sen.2 0 28 or a gzBe es SE B28 45 5 ~ a ef eats SH Eee ee: th ae a Gegse2escollars 2 increase number of stitches to equal decreases of the Place stitches from holder onto needle and bind off all stitches of lapel and interfacing to last few stitches (4 appropriate number of stitches. At each end of next 2 or front neck. Work even until piece measures two-thirds of the shown). To work collar, measure back neck edge and cast on 3 rows, form a fold line. Continue to work as before to correspond to lower half of collar, decreasing same number of stitches on last interfacing width, then, on next wrong side, knit row across to few rows as were added to first rows. Bind off stitches. rr fronts dge, 3 ss = 5x g Beg 3s 22a 83 SHEeS x a [seas ey aQteee wb Seebes 2s BESEZS EG © Pee es SSS ue 62 awa ee e as : 28585 2S se Se SSS $e 338 a = 5 $s aS Bee y eos g2 cbs 2 3% ey == = Seb es Sefetg avs ‘33 == pee bess “osesy Vly ao <4 SS oe sses L 835858 S243 i ‘Eee ae ee pe FS SERE 685% Sele a == 2S S8USFp 25438 ae SS me SEES O 2g fuy8 eu Swe rm Ome Soo 8 = hes he Be 4 223 a a ee SES ae CHS ss SoCs p38 > > Sse ees - gveeas © os a SS SSE cS 5.858% fesee See2g 2B SSS yee Ese Oe gle Bae ao BS geo ZfS558 On PEEZEZFERZ ERS £27 £2223 - Cee e tee ge ee S SELeSS ER SEZ ES Ee ba2 § Feb aeesebaes 238 go ages 3 2seecee fakes See sf fegx OG Berg beysegeas eg& 2453425 mw se (SC SY ES Bo Sag 22 Sgu&Ss c DEEPEEEE Sete Seu eg eyes =9 2555 E85en08 4% Soe S338 4 H223E2St2ads ae ou Sage ¢ veg gSecgecs 5 236 —, E2424 E52 vy Soas © woizez2 E222 ON 2 22ee . PESe8 £89 e SSaa 53collars 2 I vi Way HAY, YY) Sew shoulder seams. Fold interfacing along front fold line, Match neck edges and sew very front edge near 7 Open interfacing so wrong side is toward you, With collar fold line. opened flat, position it so that the fold line lines up with fold line of interfacing on each front. Sew collar edge to neck edge, from one end to opposite end with backstitch. Fold collar along fold line toward wrong side of garment; sew free edge of collar to neck edge. Sew end of interfacing to shoulder seam on each side. TIPS To avoid having loose side edges in a garment knitted in garter stitch (knit every row), always purl first stitch of each row; this will form a sturdy edge that will make joining pieces together easier. fesWhenivou have allmeet faighed'& Ball/of wool, 9 Turn jacket right side out as shown. This tailored collar is always attach new yarn at beginning of row to good for suit jackets. To do it well requires careful avoid knots in your work. Save yarn ends for planning and execution. Making an actual-sized paper patterns sewing finishing touches. before beginning helps to assure that pieces will be the proper size and will fit together. 54A knitted hem is a layer of knitting folded and attached to the wrong side of a garment. There are a number of techniques that can be used to make hems for a variety of garments. Generally, the edge that forms the hem is marked off with a fold line made with slip stitches, or a purl row worked on the right side of work, or a row of eyelets (cat tooth hem). COU DOC ICANN VATA YAVATAYAYAY YD YA ALATA AYALAYAYAY AYA YAS YY) NAMA TTA YALA ALA AY AY, NATAYATALAYAYAVAVATALATAYATA AYA YAY) AVA od ad WEA RELY, AVIYAYAYAY AYALA YAYAY YAY IYIY LY) AYAYAYA YALA LO ATAY AAA) VOY YY AIA ON =sfold line with slip stitches Use this technique when you want a less distinct fold line for the hem, With smaller needles, work hem in stockinette stitch to desired depth. On next knit row, work as follows: Knit 1 stitch, *then with yarn in front of work slip 1 stitch as if to purl, return yarn to back and knit | stitch. Repeat from * across row, ending with a knit stitch. Change needles. spurled folding line Using smaller needles, cast on the desired number of stitches. Work hem in stockinette stitch to desired depth. On right side row, purl (instead of knit) across. Change to the larger needles you plan to use for rest of garment to continue working. show to sew hem in slip stitch ‘To finish garment, fold hem to wrong side. With yarn threaded in yarn needle, work across from right to left, making each stitch through back of a stitch on garment body and in corresponding stitch of hem, Sew just loosely enough that sewing line is not visible on front. show to sew hem in hidden stitch Fold hem to wrong side. As you sew, fold top of hem toward you and make stitches through back of garment and back of hem, slightly left of the previous stitch and just below hem edge. Release folded top of hem to cover sewing line. 55hems 1 § = s = ° e = % ° When work is completed, use yarn needle to undo colored garment. Repeat steps 3 and 4 working stitches 2 by 2 and stitches of beginning row and transfer them to knitting Then stitch through 2 corresponding stitches on back of alternating between hem and garment. — s & 2 3 2 5 3 3 Ss 2 3 e 2 & “N 4 Fold hem to wrong side along eyelet row and sew it in place with weaving stitch as follows: Insert yarn nee- With smaller nee= dies, cast on stitch color. Work hem in stock- inette stitch to desired depth. On next right-side row, work eyelet row as follows: * Knit 2 stitches together as one (k2tog), yarn over (yo); repeat from * across row, endin with knit stitch. Change to larger needles you 1 es with contrasting color yarn. Change to main dle back through first stitch on needle and bring it out front Work yo loops as stitches through next stitch on needle. plan to use for garment. on next row. 3 =scurved hem 1 Change to in color and work in stockinette stitch to twice desired hem, using smaller needles for middle rows. Use edle to undo colored stitches and transfer them to t on stitches with contrasting color yarn. Cas needles 2 ether and knit row as follows: Insert needle into Fold hem in half, wrong sides together. Hold close tog ma z depth fo yarn nei 2 stitches together as one; eat across row. An invisible curved hem will result. Use ) first stitch on each needle and knit rep Id or the bottom will fan out. smaller needles for the rows near fo! 56On next row, with purl side toward you, work with shem with picked up 2 stitches desired pattern stitch (k2, p2 ribbing is shown) as follows: l With contrasting color yarn, cast on half the stitches Work 2 stitches from left needle, then 2 stitches from first row needed. Change to main color and work in stockinette of hem, alternating this way across row to make hem. Continue stitch for 7 or more rows. in pattern. TIPS © It is very fashionable to finish sporty knitted jackets with wooden buttons. When you launder garment, wrap buttons with aluminum foil to protect them from water damage. e Before sewing a zipper to a knitted garment, it is advisable to dampen garment and thread yarn along edges of zipper opening to avoid unsightly “waves.” 3 With yarn needle, undo colored stitches. This hem is elastic and is good for ribbed patterns. avertical hem with slip stitches a ae Be Rh thf Lsieneetias Mall {| | Can pay, ss Il Cast on stitches for garment and hem. Work in az When garment is completed, fold hem under and sew it stockinette stitch, but work selvage stitch hem in moss to wrong side, stitching through back loops on garment stitch and form fold line by slipping stitch (at inner edge of and selvage edge of hem, Work just loosely enough to prevent hem) without knitting it on each knit row. Purl rows normally, hemline from showing. oFhems 2 shem in a straight angle with interfacing 1 Work to the desired depth for the hem. On the right side of work, cast on the stitches for the interfacing and purl across the row for the fold line. Continue in stockinette st and, on knit rows, mark the vertical fold line by slipping the stitch without knitting it. When the garment is completed, fold under the bottom hem and sew the edge in place on the wrong side. Fold under the interfacing and sew it in place, overlap the hem at the corner. shem and interfacing with mitered corner AYA ) XN) VIYIYAYA) Y) LXTAYAYY ] Y) YALA KY) YAYAKAY ) AY, AYAYAY) TAX TATATAYAYA ] ‘YXY? | Cast on desired number of stitches for hem, minus a number equal to half the hem rows (if hem is to be 8 rows, cast on 4 stitches fewer). Form corner by increasing 1 stitch every other row until you complete hem. Form interfacing by continuing same increases as for hem, purl next (right side) row for fold line; mark vertical fold line with a slip stitch on knit rows, () YALA VIVID UAT PA A ee ey awe ewe MATALALA LAMA Wy INMATAYY (YYYLYYY LY) oP 2 When garment is completed, fold interfacing to wrong side and sew edge in place as shown. Then fold hem to wrong side so slanted edge matches that of interfacing; sew corner edges together and hem in place. After shaping curved edge (as at neck opening), pick up stitches around curved edge. Work even in stockinette stitch for an inch. On next row, work several increases, spaced across row and with more placed at more rounded part of curve so that inter- facing becomes larger. When hem is desired depth, loosely bind off all stitches. Turn hem to wrong side and sew in place. 58edgings 1 The edgings are an extension of a knitted work; they create decorative finishes and help to keep a garment in shape. They can be sewn or knitted, with one or two layers. =sewn edges Most edges are cast on and worked in one layer, except for kl, p! ribbing that can be worked with a tubular stitch, resulting in a double layer. Vertical (side) edges can be worked on a number of stitches that equals in width the depth of horizontal border edge. The Edges with Slip Stitches ‘These are edges that are more resistant than ones normally used; the way in which they are worked keeps them from stretching out of shape. Edge with slip stitches: Worked on a multiple of 5 stitches, plus 2. Work as follows: 1st row (right side): Knit 2 stitches, “bring yarn forward, slip 3 stitches as if to knit, return yarn to back, knit 2; repeat from " across. 2nd and all wrong-side rows: Purl across. Repeat these 2 rows. Edge with stitches that stand out: Worked on a multiple of 5 stitches, plus 2, Work as follows: 1st row (right side): Purl 2 stitches, *knit 1, slip 1 stitch as if knit, knit 1, purl 2; repeat from * across. 2nd and all wrong-side rows: Work the stitches as they face you. Repeat these 2 rows. 1 Edge in Moss Stitch ‘This edge is good for working edges on babies’ or children’s garments. Cast on desired number of stitches and work moss stitch until border is desired depth. Keeping border same width as bottom, separate vertical border stitches with a marker and work them in moss stitch, working rest of stitches in stockinette stitch. 2 K1, Pl Ribbed Edge Cast on desired number of stitches for entire horizontal edge, with tubular stitch 1. Then continue in kl, p! ribbing for the length desired. Now work in stockinette stitch, keeping vertical edge in ribbing as before. Edge in Twisted 2/2 Stitch Start the necessary number of stitches for doing entire horizontal edge and rib in k2, desired. Now work in stockint ribbing as before. g stitches, for length , keeping vertical edge in 59edgings 1 PL Fe P BS Agee RS 2nd row leaving yarn in front of work knit 2 together as one rows for pattern stitch to desired depth for border. (As shown, pattern is worked twice.) (k2tog), pass slipped stitch over k2tog; repeat from * across. (You should now have on needle the same number of stitches that you cast on.) Repeat these 4 Keeping border same width as lower border, separate (with marker) the vertical border stitches, using enough stitches for 2 (as shown) or more pattern repeats. Continue to work vertical border in pattern and remaining stitches in stockinette stitch. Complete your work. Edge in a Lacy Cable Pattern 1st (wrong side) row: * Purl 1 stitch, work yarn over (yo), purl 1 stitch, knit 1 stitch; repeat from * across row (increases made on row). 2nd row: * Working yo loop as a stitch, purl 1, knit 3; tepeat from * across. Srd row: * Purl 3, knit 1; repeat from “across. Cast on the desired number of stitches that is a multiple of 3. Work across in lacy cable pattern as follows: 4th row: * Purl 1, slip 1 as if to purl without knitting it, This edge is good for women’s and children's sweaters that have no shaping along the front. 60edgings 2 athe picked up edges Picked up edges are used along curved edges, or when you want to knit edging in the opposite direction from the one in which the garment is worked. Use a crochet hook and/or knitting needle to pick up stitches along the edge being finished. 2 Edging in Garter Stitch, Picked Up Vertically To make edging worked in same direction as garment was worked, cast on stitches for edging, and, on another needle, pick up edge stitches (1 stitch for every 2 rows) along garment edge. Knit edging in garter stitch and as you work, on every other row, knit together last stitch of edging and corresponding picked-up stitch of selvage. Binding Off with Crochet Hook To bind off, use crochet hook a little bit thicker than the yarn. Pick up first stitch with crochet hook, then draw second stitch through first (first stitch bound off), Continue to draw each stitch, one at a time, through loop remaining on hook until all stitches are bound off. Cut yarn and draw yarn end through last loop to secure. With yarn needle, weave end into work. db 4 / u / h) rk) MN ‘K) nN VAL gi wh yy " Ay} ) Y A) Ly | or, WW NY ] 4 K i ‘ ‘A f ae NALA VAYAYAYAYY) Edging in Moss Stitch Pick up needed stitches along edge and work them in moss stitch for the desired width. Bind off all stitches in pattern as usual, or with a crochet hook (see below). r| ¥ A’ A) tA) \ ) 4 \) Pye Cis I i i ete ie ie aia J des} . 3 Edging in K1, P1 Ribbing Pick up stitches for edging and work in kl, p! ribbing for the desired width, working last 4 rows in a tubular stitch. Finish by closing stitches.edgings 2 4th row Lacy Edging Pick up uneven number of stitches. Work edging, for desired depth, in lacy pattern as follows: First 3 rows: Purl across. 4th row (right side): Knit 1 stitch, ‘work yarn over (yo), slip 1 stitch as if to knit (without knitting it), knit 1 stitch, pass slip stitch over knitted one; repeat from * across. Next 3 rows: Purl across. Bind off all stitches with crochet hook (see previous page). 5th row Edging in Ladder Stitch 1st row 1st row: * Knit 2 stitches, purl 2 stitches; repeat from * across to end of row, 2nd row: Continue to work in k2, p2, but shift pattern by 1 stitch to left (for example, if 1st row ended with purl 2, the 2nd row will start with purl 1 stitch, then knit 2, purl 2, and so on). Continue to work in k2, p2, shifting stitches on each row and always slanting pattern in same direction for desired depth. To finish edging, bind off all stitches with crochet hook (see previous page). 2nd row 62selvages and picking up stitches The selvages are the side edges of the knitted work. They can be done in different ways based on their intended use: for sewing seams, for finishing, or for picking up stitches. sgarter stitch selvage Use for seam edges on stockinette stitch pieces. On knit rows, work first and last stitch in twisted purl. On purl rows, work first stitch in a very tight purl and slip last stitch without knitting it. =beaded selvage Use with seams sewn with backstitch, regardless of knitted pattern stitch, On every row, slip first stitch as if to knit without knitting it and knit last stitch on row. sstockinette selvage Use as an all-purpose selvage. On right side rows, start with knit 2, purl 1; end row with purl 1, knit 2. (You can work first and last stitch on row in chain stitch, as shown at right, if you prefer.) On wrong side rows, work stitches as they face you. amoss stitch selvage Use for a firm and attractive edge. On every row, work first and last 3 stitches as follows: Purl 1, knit 1, purl 1. Selvage Suitable for Picking Up Stitches The chain stitch selvage works well for edges where you will pick up stitches for finishing. Chain stitch selvage can be worked in 2 different ways that give the same result. First (Italian) Method: On right side rows, slip first stitch as if to knit without knitting it and knit last stitch. On wrong side rows: Slip first stitch as if to purl without purling it and purl last stitch. Second (English) Method: On right side rows, slip both first and last stitches without knitting them. On wrong side rows: (Yarn is between first two stitches.) Purl all stitches across row, including first one. Lt i CT. ooo aes ~~ i) oe ee ao er) foe LJ 63 ee64 selvages and picking up stitches Picking up Stitches Picking up with knitting needles Each stitch of chain-stitch selvage corresponds to 2 rows, not 1, of knitting; remember to pick up enough stitches along edge to compensate for this, or picked-up edge will be too tight. Pick up 2 stitches in 1 chain as follows: Insert needle under front loop of chain and knit it, repeat for back loop of same chain. Picking up diagonally with crochet hook To pick up stitches on a slant (as for diagonal pocket), draw up stitches with crochet hook (as described above), working into stitch 1 row below previous one. Diagram shows stitches that hook should go into. Picking up with crochet hook Tuck knitting needle under your right arm when using crochet hook. Insert crochet hook through center of first stitch below selvage chain. Catch yarn on hook and draw up first stitch and transfer it to knitting needle. If selvage is irregular, pick up stitches in second (not first) line of stitches at edge. PRACTICAL TIPS If instructions don't indicate the number of stitches you need to pick up, make your calculation, baséd on the sample gauge. Measure edge where stitches will be picked up, multiply number of inches by number of stitches per inch on sample gauge; the result is the number of stitches to pick up. To work along side edge of piece, you generally need to pick up 1 stitch for every row or every other row if you are working an edging with the same pattem stitch as on the piece itself. Pick up 1 stitch every row if you are working edging with smaller needles than on piece. To work in same direction as original piece (as for wrist- band), you generally need to pick up 1 stitch in every stitch, if you don't need to make decreases or increases.circular Knitting in the round can be done with a double- pointed needle set of four, or preferably five, needles, or with a circular needle. By knitting around, you eliminate seams. aknitting with double- pointed (dp) needles This is a good way to make a seamless neckband. Whether you cast on stitches to start, or pick up stitches around neck opening, working the rest of the neckband is the same. 2 Arrange 4 needles in a square, put a marker (colored loop of yarn) on needle after last cast-on stitch. Start knitting the first stitches, using fifth needle. Knit all hes off first needle; use now emptied needle for knitting stitches of next needle, and so on until you have knitted all the started stitches back to marker. 1 Cast on or pick up a quarter of the stitches on 1 of 5 needles, then place another needle on top of first one (so it can be moved easily), and place another quarter of the stitches on this second needle, working with same yarn Continue in this fashion until you have all the stitches you need, evenly distributed and untwisted, on 4 needles 3 Be sure to mark beginning of the round (circular row), with a yarn loop or a safety pin in last stitch, moving it up each round. Proceed as described in step 2, knitting each new needle with needle just emptied, working around and around. 65circular Knitting aeknitting with a circular needle ] Using a same-sized straight needle, cast on desired number of stitches and transfer (slip) them without twisting onto circular needle. (You can also cast onto circular needle directly.) Use proper length of circular needle so stitches fit easily from tip to tip. Working back and forth as if using 2 needles, knit | row, turn work, and purl 1 row. As you go, slide piece to keep working stitches at needle tips. 3 Do not turn after last row just worked. Place a marker on needle for start of rounds (circular rows) and knit around needle to starting marker. Do not turn work, but slip marker off needle. On next round, knit first stitch and place marker back on needle, then knit around. Continue to knit around and around and at start of each round, slip marker in place from left to right needle tip. 66correcting mistakes When you knit, sa dropped knit stitch you may make mistakes. Follow the easy methods illustrated here and many of them will not be hard to fix. l Insert right needle first through Insert left needle, from back to front, stitch below, then under yarn of only into picked up (intact) stitch stitch that dropped from needle. and pull it up and forward. 3 Slip this lifted stitch over yarn on right needle and let it 4 Insert left needle front to back into restored stitch, slipping fall from right needle, then from left needle. The stitch it from right to left needle. Knit it as usual. remaining is the dropped stitch restored, but facing wrong way. #error in garter stitch pattern If an error happens while knitting garter stitch, undo corresponding stitch(es) directly above the error until you reach row with the error; undo error. Then with crochet hook catch stitch from front and work as described above if stitch needs to be knit (shown in illustration). For a purl row, insert crochet hook, from back to front into stitch, catching next horizontal yarn “ladder rung” and drawing it through stitch on hook. Matching method to knit and purl, work up each rung until you reach the row you are working on. 67correcting mistakes sa dropped purl stitch Insert right needle, from back to front, first into stitch Insert left needle into picked-up stitch from the back (as below and then under yarn of dropped stitch. shown) and pull it upward and in front. ‘Then withdraw right needle tip, bringing yarn of 4 Transfer restored stitch from right needle to left needle, dropped stitch through picked-up stitch to restore sliding off picked-up stitch; proceed with your work dropped stitch to needle. normally. serror in stockinette stitch pattern nb Undo corresponding stitches above error until you reach 2 If the stitch you need to pick up is on purl side, insert row with error; undo error. Working on knit side, insert crochet hook from back to front to draw yarn rung crochet hook into front of stitch just below; catch horizontal through stitch on hook. Work up rungs to top. You can also yarn “ladder rung” and draw it through stitch on hook to turn work and work from knit side, if you prefer. restore stitch. In this manner, work up each rung in order until you reach top row. 68Before completing a garment, you may wish to prepare the various pattern pieces, straighten the curled up edges, and at the same time straight- RI RENEE LF RS) et SRR Rd M 5 en any irregularity of the ZEAE stitches. This procedure is called blocking and can be done with water or, in show to prepare your work Before blocking, weave in all yarn ends on each piece. With a yarn needle, weave them into stitches on wrong side or along edges (as shown). some Cases, steam. sshaping with steam Use for wool yarns, but check yarn label first before steaming. Lay an actual-size cardboard pattern piece on a flat surface. Place corresponding knitted piece over it, wrong side up. Using rustproof pins, carefully pin corners and wherever else you find it necessary to keep edges flat, Pass a steaming iron over it, keeping it slightly lifted so that you dampen whole piece evenly. Let piece dry completely before removing pins. ashaping with water If the garment is worked with a textured pattern, avoid using an iron for shaping. Mount each piece over its cardboard pattern and dampen it with a spray bottle. Let piece dry completely. You can also dampen pieces by leaving them between layers of damp fabric, placed on a flat surface. 69finishing show to join the various pieces With right sides together, join front and back at shoulders and along sides (underarm), sewing edges together with backstitch or other stitch (see page 72), Sew pieces with same yarn used for knitting garment. (If yarn used is too thick for sewing, use a thinner one, carefully matching colors and fiber content.) i h YADA WATSYNONA) With right sides together, sew underarm seam on sleeve. Turn sleeve right-side out and fold it in half lengthwise, as shown. Mark center of top edge with pin. 3 With right sides together, pin sleeve to armhole, 4 Starting at shoulder, pin sleeve edge to armhole, matching marked center of sleeve top to shoulder casing and gently curving top of sleeve as shown to seam and align underarm seams of sleeve and garment fit smoothly. Sew sleeve in place with backstitch, body. i AY LAT KY) Tin, SUTTONS EXYXVAYAYATAYAYRYAYA TRS BETA YIILAYAAYL PENINININININININIQINI® BAYA BATA IYIATAD VEYA AG EATEN IYVAYAUT AY AYA Jas NNN YY VESTA OT WEVA EERIE VATA REATARD VN ERI ATLYALAIANL AVATAR YAY VAN EAT If you can iron the yarn (check label first), 5 keep garment inside out and press edges with tip of iron; turn it right-side out and gently press sewn edge. 3 70Fora garment to be attractively finished, it is important that the sewing be carefully done. There are different ways of sewing. In all cases, sew just loosely enough that your knitting does not lose its elasticity. Invisible Sewing on Stitches in a Purl This technique is worked in just the reverse of knit one. Begin with 1 stitch, then alternating up and down, work 2 stitches each side, working the first stitch from back and the next one from front. Sewing Invisible Sewing or Horizontal Needle Stitch in a Knit Stitches to be joined should be placed opposite each other on separate needles, one with right side (front) of work toward you (shown as lower needle) but with the upper needle actually held behind, wrong side toward you (illustration shows them spread for clarity). Thread yarn from back (upper) section in a yarn needle, 1 Insert yarn needle from front through first stitch on lower needle; * work next 2 stitches above as follows: Pass yarn needle from front (knit side of work) through first stitch and drop it from needle, then pass from back through next stitch and retain it on knitting needle. Now work 2 lower stitches, passing yarn needle from front through first stitch and drop it, then pass from back through next stitch. Drop each stitch off needle only after it is worked twice. Repeat from * across. Pull yarn just tightly enough for sewn stitches to match knitted ones. \' ae Xs PONY TRON aay RY iA\ Se, We NIN ay SRY yy ‘iN ie HV) 2 Invisible Sewing on Garter Stitch Position work so that back needle (top edge in illustration) has 2 rows of stitch loops showing beyond ridge and front (lower edge) has 1 row of loops showing above ridge. Insert yarn needle into first stitch on top as if to knit, then Ce LN NN Prt te ed ek ee eh Pe MSE EE AS first top stitch again in a purl (drop it) and next in a knit. Repeat from * across, being careful not to twist stitches as you work them. v Re IR SCION ry AHA pe ine AIAG LK PAY x ANY ein Para) TR OY RR WT) aa BIZ Saeies sty Ta mR ) U) ot Ges oe SEAL ee i ‘ Ee UTR T UTR re rae ( ras msi ™ ty eri tien iy 2 Axe) Soe YAO * work first lower stitch in a knit (drop it from needle) and the next in a purl; work Invisible Sewing in K2, P2 Ribbing Combine the 2 techniques of invisible sewing on knits and on purls in order to work stitches without twisting them. NOTE: This type of sewing can be done only if stitches are knitted in same direction; undo beginning row on top section, 7sewing Sewing in Slipstitch 5 Sewing in Backstitch This is a common stitch used for Use this stitch for joining irregular most types of regular edges. Use same edges caused by shaping, such as yarn used for garment, unless it is too attaching sleeves to armholes. thick; in which case, use a thinner yarn, Hold pieces with right sides together. matching color and fiber to garment. Sew seam close to edge with backstitch Join 2 edges from wrong side, as follows: Sew each stitch, going in a working into back of stitches near or at small space to the right, and emerging at edges (as shown). Draw 2 edges firmly, a small space to the left, of where yarn but not too tightly, together. originally emerged. Sewing in Vertical Knit Stitch 6 Sewing in Crossed Stitch Holding 2 edges butted together, This is a decorative stitch worked with right sides toward you, line up first on the right side of your work in 2 stitches, then * insert yarn needle contrasting shade, Stitch first in one through center of corresponding end direction, then back in opposite stitch on each edge, as shown. direction, working even stitches in both directions. Take needle to back under horizontal Edges Crocheted with Free Stitches Connected) _¥#"" 0! previous stitch and bring it back Single Crochet Stitch by Crochet Hook to front through new stitch just made. Repeat from * to work joining. Hold two pieces with right sides together. Lay 2 pieces flat with right-sides up and Using yarn used for garment, form aloop free-stitch edges butted together. With on hook. With yarn at back of work, crochet hook, pick up first stitch on right * insert hook through corresponding piece, * then pick up corresponding stitches of both pieces, catch a loop of stitch on left piece and draw it though yarn on hook and draw through both stitch on hook; pick up next stitch on pieces. Reach back, catch another loop _ right and draw it through; repeat from * on hook (edges are wrapped within cro- _ to join edges. Secure last stitch. chet), and draw this loop through the 2 Work on right side for decorative loops on hook. Repeat from * across seam and on wrong side for invisible edge. Wy a RY) WWE Ww L Pca et Sees /TIVd X \)A\ ef Ay A iA | SOUR OF id ayy \) If y Abuttonholes and loops ges by ) with SSS WSS ESSE NSS SEES eS SSS SSS sss When garment is completed, finish buttonhole ed embroidering in buttonhole stitch (see diagram same yarn as garment or with silk yarn in same color, 3 place, bind off enough stitches, To work buttonhole at desired without knitting them, to 0 ” ¢ 6 N xo 0 << of ag ¢ ES oo a accommodate button, On left needle, binding off and proceed as usual with pick up last remaining stitch from on as many stitches as ist. on with 2 needles 2 « - 2 & ° & ° 3 5 s 2 ° = $s £ s a = z ° 5 . Ss = or 5 5 g = 2 & ¢ #e aoe So6 eoo 8 258 Soe 358 $58 vo ov o58 pee gee SLE 2 Z¥e oom gos w OH o e 25 giz BES Paae o Lu gEs Bee 558 S80 bmw» SBP. BES BE6 eo8 gekeees g gee gieg Pei Seaeaeg & So % ges ae Shes 2a Se wd Sc $3a2 gore eat eao gd? BEZs pees S558 6%5s8 68 5 ev 22 See, Eee Busse esa gee Base BEE 5 o oO 3 ‘ So a2es 28 B#Frog eu P OFF 88 is ane 52 ye 8 6 wes) NIZE = § a = 2 NN: = Sno O a FS ae Vertical or horizon-buttonholes and loops LALA AUXONATATA OA YAYAY IY AYAYAYAYATAYY YAYAYATAYA YALA YAY? stailor’s buttonhole avertical buttonhole 1 At the place desired for buttonhole, use contrasting color Divide work at the point where you plan to make yarn to knit the number of stitches needed for buttonhole and work the 2 sides separately. First work buttonhole. Slide these stitches back onto left needle and knit __ right side to desired length of buttonhole. them again with main color yarn. When work is completed, remove colored yarn and sew a Work second side to correspond. Then continue to work yarn strand through them to prevent their unraveling. across both sections as usual, connecting the 2 parts. Embroider edges of buttonhole with buttonhole stitch. Button Loop Work button loop on outside edge once you have finished work. At place for button loop, attach yarn and sew a loop of 2 or 3 strands at edge, as shown, making loop big enough for button. Cover strands with buttonhole stitch. Finish buttonhole with a discreet stitch as follows: With yarn at back of work, use crochet hook to bind off stitches, as shown, around buttonhole. Buttonhole stitch can also be used to finish buttonhole. 74pockets 1 OSS SSS LEP OPPL TP SR QS SSS then cm) of desired height for pocket On separate needle, cast on same number of stitches as for pocket, plus 2 extra stitches for each selvage. Knit Beginning with purl row, work front stitches to pocket opening, purl pocket lining stitches off holder, then continue y opening. Mark beginning, and end of opening at desired position, in stockinette stitch to almost same length as front to pocket opening, ending with working remaining front stitches to end of knit row and binding off 2 selvage stitches row. Now you should have the same on each side on last row. Place these stitches on a holder for pocket lining and cut yarn. number of stitches on needle as you began with. N « < 6 g = 3 2 2 = 3 e ae aa E S g = S oe ¢ & 3 ( 2 EI & z z 5 5 2 3 z 5 g = 5 3 3 2 2 4 So & Es a ‘5 ~< finished edge right side row and complete row. ternal pocket with border Work front of garment to within | inch (2 stitch and remaining stitches as bi Once you have continue with your work, 1 2 - = b e 5 2 =e 2 gs 2 Za28 vo 2 gy Laas 2 £e52 a6 >e25 8 2Ess comes EVM ghey rg oO Ee & v Vv 2 2g eee E3552 98 sce 3s _ = 0 ° £8228 os se go oO Ss HR seo 2 gy co 8 & Ae Zee we Fat sos $48.82 eX @SEO8 & gu ees saAGED. 28 g Ei¥es atMogeae sf 233 egZoukzer ogg COEZE moauvé& = & & & 6 oe 75pockets 1 avertical pocket with picked up edge pocket, nto pocket around ing across all stitches (with 1 yarn), ocket. Close stitches with yarn needle, Prepare a working 2 layers to form a sack, Insert it i opening and attach it with a sewn slip stitch all On right side, fasten ends of pocket border in place with oa, ge se 5 ap 4 os 3 3 eg 2 €o 3% S x G26 & g ees 22 oes 23 Bae N Sn eee o & . n sb 2 S De 35 fae = 2 wz 2 we ES Bag ge ays é35 e25 223 235 oes ee £5 & 8 ps ees ais gue ee Se 5 aos eed yoy 232 fst 3 a9 2 yo ae 2 Boe Sue C2 ' we obo zee Zee Hove 2.33 eax pee S38 Ege. ae seag eg 2is2 Sag Baxe see BSc 5 wy ess: 2 22 ays ope = ou? ges 2ESs S56 Bes 33 Bens a Ee oi ge ros Ss = MM268 & 2 76pockets 2 Sie a =slanting pocket with {SS = ies ———S S ‘eee Picked up edge bs a | j My) y } CHM) aba 7 CN a ee -— Sa rir! its iF F eo © ob a @ 5 & Stsce 5 Sea 5 2. 25 5 Seg esi 2 sas? 2ZeaOrs Sige eu go P S 6 2G Oi oes £228 geues ee = oe v ges SE°3 3 eyoe Beso og a ta SRE a¢s i tO S23 cea~s o te 6,425 Bis eas eeu gs 4288 2eo*s a. 3 S&Zue s—-.25 = Ss 5 2 wy Se aaa mene % pee =e Bones a oP oe ow i = eo i BS Sy ee om eee | oS Hey) cnt eeyos SEce25 =: © nu ge Buse Se eS wn oo += Se ees BEZ<5 EgZEse ES wa poses aoe og Zags pEeea west ga eig Pecas Setes OO rat > rc =| Fags eve S.o0 Ne28 —Hlgee = ew Oo Fo ge and pocket and the Continue to work front ge, start shaping pocket ght for pocket opening. Divide r front ed (depending on slant pocket opening stitches are ing them close to stitches you are continue to work as usual on all stitches and complete front. measures same as other part to top of add to needle the remaining stitches (at . , Set remaining stitches aside. LS. SAN D\aglatals) . RS SG CG Work piece to desired hei work into 2 parts, one fo When this part pocket opening desired) every other row. When all decreased front of pocket), push working on; | remaining stitches placed on a holder. edge and pocket stitches. At pocket ed; opening by decreasing | or 2 stitches with a few hidden stitches. oFpockets 2 Sewn On Pocket on Picked Up Stitches =sewn on pocket with knitted edge an needed for desired width. then continue in stockinette stitch, 2 stitches fewer thi Purl first row, Cast on adding 6 stitches ] Mark position of pocket on garment with contrasting increasing | stitch at each end of first 3 rows ( 1 in all), color yarn. Holding work with right-side up and yarn at work picked up stitches, making 2 stitches in garter stitch on (1 stitch for each knit stitch). Turn work and, with new yarn, each edge and working center stitches in stockinette st. back, use crochet hook to pick up stitches along base line When pocket is desired length, bind off 2 stitches on each side, and, with larger needles, work in kl, pl ribbing for | inch . \y AYA) AN 4 YNAATAYATAY Sunes cm). Finish edge with 3 or 4 rows in tubular stitch; close ches with yarn needle. When pocket is desired length, purl 1 row for fold line. For hem, use smaller needles to work 4 rows in stockinette stitch, decreasing 1 stitch at each side of first row. Bind off. 2 AYA Fold hem under and sew it in place with slip stitches; sew sides of pocket in place. Fold under added stitches on sides of pocket and at bottom; sew them in place. 2 Pin pocket to garment. To facilitate sewing, use a knitting needle to pick up stitches of garment along edge and sew each picked-up stitch to corresponding stitch of pocket. 78elastic band edges sherringbone stitch band around waist edge, evenly distributing it. Position elastic band, on wrong side, and pin it, Z adding an extra inch g ends to form circle; stitch ends Cut elastic to desired measurement, (2/4 cm) for overlappin ] securely together. ——— S } " DLS 79 g for elastic band until you have d to the right to pick up 2 stitches ys working to the right of above elastic band, alwa’ previous stitch to form casin Continue in this manner, inserting needle below, then worked all the way around. Move needle down an below elastic band 4 5D garment, , picking up 2 stitches just Using thick embroidery yarn in same shade as insert needle from right to left ( wd OOS H HPD MATE (/ ay above elastic band. 3elastic band edges = crocheted band @ Prepare elastic band and pin it to waist edge (see previous Crochet long strand worked in chain stitch, making it about page). three times waist measurement and leaving yarn attached to add more if needed. oo 1 Stitch 1 end of strand above elastic band, Bring it down 2, Continue in this manner, stitching strand first above, and to right, and stitch it below elastic. then below, forming a zigzag pattern. Edge with Elastic Inserted on Back of Stitches To get more hold along edges (such as for a beret or a pair of socks), add elastic to your work. The knitting methods are illustrated below. Knit edge, with elastic held at back of work and catching it in work as if it were a second color (see jacquard stitch, page 102). You can also add elastic to completed ribbed edge, using a tapestry needle on back to pass needle under vertical knit stitches on each row of edge. > VZV = eer} ES CS cs > C2 0) ; ee DUNE v4 << y fs — #= Even in knitting you sometimes need titches needed sl . ermine the number ot the beginning. First, det to make darts, either vertical or 5 3 es 2 2S 6 3 = Szd ez ecg 2c eet ees 5 oe “54 ¥ eu > Se fet eee is Ege 523 SCoug 2as Bey ies 32% 2ge Sv S62 gee soe uy o £292 es? L§2s €2 = horizontal, for extra fullness and a better-fitting garment. They are made by using special techniques as you knit the piece. together as one each pair of yo and slip stitches, When dart is completed, knit across entire row. Knit + On first row of dart, knit across to last few stitches and set aside these stitches without knitting them. LES s horizontal dart on the right side 1 Turn work, make yarn over (yo) stitch, then slip first stitch onto right needle; purl remaining stitches. 5 This is how the completed right dart should look. Continue on short rows. Set aside new group of stitches each knit row, work yo, and slip | to start each purl row. 3 83horizontal darts each pair of yo and slip 1 as follows: Slide 2 stitches off without knitting it; knit remaining stitches. When dart is completed, purl across entire row, working Turn work, make yarn over (yo) stitch, slip next stitch left needle to interchange their positions so slip stitch comes before yo; return to left needle and purl them together as one. 2 + LR RKRHT RPL RIS HHH ep aRRORRE oY TIPS Home-washed sweaters may felt and curl up if you don't follow the following rules: or wringing, but by rolling sweater in a soft towel. regular powder. Purl first row, setting aside last group of stitches without your hands, purling them, Continue working. Set aside new group of stitches on each purl row, work yo, and slip 1 to start each knit row. + Always use lukewarm water in washing and rinsing. * The detergent should be one suitable for wool, not * When washing it, don’t rub. Gently squeeze it with * Eliminate as much water as possible without twisting * Don't soak the garment for too long. 1 3 s horizontal dart on the left side 5 This is how the completed left dart should look. 84vertical darts avertical darts Vertical darts are made with a series of decreases and increases. To make a skirt, it is enough to make decreases from the hip to the waistline. On a dress, however, you need to make the decreases on the skirt, but on the bodice, from the waistline to the bust, you need to make increases. Establish position for darts, and mark, with contrasting color yarn, a stitch for center of each dart. 2. Make a decrease before marked center as follows: On 2 3 Knit center stitch, then knit next 2 stitches together as stitches just before center, slip | stitch without knitting, one (decrease made after center stitch). Continuing in knit next stitch, pass slipped stitch over knit, and drop it same manner, decrease at regular intervals (illustration shows (decrease made before center). every 4th row) to waistline. At this point, begin bodice darts. ae Ls CE Eee SS 2 SS =< SS < \) AY) AY} LY) AVA LY} LY) SS 122) 4 4 Keeping same center stitch, increase at regular intervals at 5 Continue in this manner until dart is completed. s follows: Knit to center stitch, then, with tip of right needle, pick up horizontal yarn connecting last stitch to center and place this loop on left needle; knit new stitch in a twist; knit center stitch, then increase as before just after center. 85vertical darts Vertical Dart from the Right Good for skirts, this dart gives a reduced amount cof shaping with decreases made on only 1 side. With contrasting color yarn, mark stitch desired for beginning dart. Working on stitch before the marked one, knit both stitches together as one. YY) ANI NOS Repeat this decrease every 4 or 6 rows (knit rows), depending on how big you want the dart to be until you have enough decreases. 86 Waistline Dart With contrasting color yarn, mark center stitch desired for beginning dart. Work double decrease as follows: Work to last stitch before the marked one, slip next 2 stitches (as if to knit them together) onto right needle without actually knitting them, knit next stitch, and pass the 2 slipped stitches ‘over the one just knitted. Repeat this decrease every 2 or 4 rows, depend- ing on how big you want the dart to be until you have enough decreases.tucks oe wu \ 2 oa oD ‘ aa 3 we p cm -) \ ay SSSy 5 < LDL TD g > 7 i Ck ew ee = ee = 6 a £ 11} > > pL) 2 oo ee ee vo J i 4 2% & = eee Soa. eg ee ee oe Ez Smee oer 2 a: gE: ae aa ea ee = 3 ye. ee 7 E56 — % eo et See a6 EEq To ce a =o et etl es aes Stone ES 2 Be = ee Ae et hone ae m8 gs Pee EE, EEE fe Sa 8 SSS ae Eat é oe 5 ow = of = 3 ge BES a Gag we =f z A ss 1 P| ST] att te eh ee ee sired row for tuck, ending 2 Knit in stockinette stitch to de: with purl row. With contrastin rk until you have worked ig color yarn, mark 2 end ) half the number of rows desired for the tuck first half, ending with Work second half of tuck, starting with knit row, until you have | row fewer than show to make horizontal tucks stitches of last row. Continue to wo (5 rows shown), ending with a knit row. (above markers purl row. ] 3 87 6 Continue knitting the garment up to next tuck. together stitch from from stitch holder. ges as follows: Keeping rk, knit On right side of work, join ed stitch holder behind your wo knitting needle with corresponding stitch .tucks Tuck with Cat’s Tooth Edge To make pleat with decorative edge, mark fold line with row of small eyelets. Work half of tuck, then, instead of ridge, work as follows: * Purl 1 stitch and slip it back to left needle, pass next stitch over purl stitch and drop, slip purl stitch back to right needle, make yarn over; repeat from * across, ending with purl stitch. Complete tuck, which will have lacy edge called “cat's tooth.” To make curved tucks, cast on uneven number of stitches. Work as follows: 1st and 2nd rows: Work in k1, p1 ribbing. 3rd row: * Knit 1 stitch, slip 1 stitch with yarn in front; repeat from * across. Y} OYA ) VAs 4th row: Purl 1 stitch, * slip stitch with yarn behind, Change color, if desired, and repeat these 8 rows. One side purl 1 stitch; repeat from * across. Sth through 8th of work is flat; the other curves upward. rows: Repeat 3rd and 4th rows twice more.pleats sflat pleat Pleats can be used for knitting skirts. They can be flat pleats, box pleats, and plissé. For all of them, use a thin yarn so garment does not become too bulky. Determine the number of stitches needed for the width of the garment plus total number of stitches needed for under layers of each pleat. When you work, mark separation between | pleat and next by slipping | stitch (outer fold line) and mark depth of pleat with | purl stitch (inner fold line). In example shown here: * Knit 8 Work to desired length for folding and closing pleats, stitches, slip 1, knit 4, purl 1; repeat from * across, ending ; knit 4 then put neat 4 stitches and slip stitch on a double knit 8 stitches, On wrong side rows, purl stitches, but pointed (dp) needle; put next 4 stitches and purl 1 on another knit inner fold stitches. dp needle; keep last 8 stitches on left needle. RAS) ANY } AIA) SN MAGNONS i (Yt ) NY NN % NY N Repeat this process until you haye formed all the pleats, then continue to work in regular stockinette stitch on all stitches. Fold second dp needle (4 stitches and purl 1) to back, holding it (wrong sides together) behind first dp needle. Now * knit 3 stitches together, working through first stitch on each dp needle and left needle; repeat from * 4 times more. s box pleat 2 Work to desired length for folding and closing pleats. Form box pleats, folding under layers at each side (as shown), and work off 3 layers at each side as described above. Work box pleats on right side row: * Knit 8 (inverted pleat section), purl | (inner fold), knit 3, slip 1 (outer fold), knit 8 (front of box pleat), slip 1 (outer fold), knit 3, purl | (inner fold); repeat from * across, ending with knit &. 89pleats splissé pleats fo YU, 5 iS) ‘To work plissé pleats, cast on a number of stitches in multiples of 8. On right side rows, * knit 7, purl 1; repeat from * across. On wrong side rows, knit 4, * purl 1, knit 7; repeat from * across, ending with knit 3. 2 Work to length and complete garment should exhibit typical look of plissé pleats. To draw in work with a gentle curve, be sure to distribute decreases at regular intervals. For each decrease, knit 2 stitches together as one. The more decreases, the greater the curve; the fewer decreases, the less the curve. Curve with Increases To enlarge work with a curve, be sure to distribute increases at regular intervals. For each increase, knit same stitch with 1 regular knit (in front loop) and 1 twisted knit (in back loop}. The fullness of curve depends on number of stitches increased and how closely spaced they are. For very full curve (as. shown), increase in each stitch; for less fullness, space increases farther apart. oe —< — eee Se 90elaborate cable stitch Always popular, cables can be made in many different ways. Knitting them with a large number So ZX) >) ) 2 LD) - = 0 i VI PHIEo yy plage of stitches will give y you a fuller and more intricate cable. This cable is worked in stockinette stitch on 9 stitches. Knit desired number of rows to cable twist. Work twist as follows: Slip first 6 stitches to cable needle, or double pointed (dp) needle, and hold in front of work; knit last 3 cable stitches. Return 4th, 5th, and 6th stitches to left needle and move 3 Now continue in stockinette stitch to next cable twist. first 3 cable stitches still on dp needle to back of work. Slip first 6 stitches to dp needle and hold at back; knit Knit 3 stitches on left needle, then stitches from dp needle. next 3 stitches. 4 Place 4th, 5th, and 6th stitches back onto left needle; 5 Return 3 stitches on dp needle to left needle before bring 3 stitches on dp needle to front of work. 4th, 5th, and 6th stitches; knit all 6 stitches. 91(i) ie \Y ee A ey Sy VW Vo We v Lael VACA d\ V/ oe. a [a gia PJ 2) , \) Y SA elaborate cable stitch > 5 & & ° x 8 = > § g < a a % ° > & 3 5 = W 6 Continue in this manner, alternating the 2 twists and working twists at regular intervals. i 1 CK SSIES SS 7 ale. x bik P SRA ALES SA SS z 1 KC A : Sey ee Oy KS > eK | AOA ASy (k pogAn rh them along edges of neck opening by working neck decreases in stitches just next to cable With some cables, itis possible to continue stitches. In example shown here, double cable is divided into 2 single cables that extend along neck opening. H The neck opening edge is finished by cables, but other finishing can be added, if ca Dang i rN Vy Kl cables, you can add a selvage stitch to neck desired. For instance, when you knit neck edge of each cable. C NESS] : 2 ’ r Me C et (Kt q De t ridfinishing with a crochet hook Crocheted trims are easy and fast to make. They can be used for completing a garment in a decorative manner or for finishing uneven edges. In both cases, you can use contrasting color yarn. = picot trim SSS > PLA LAL RL >> This trim is worked in only | row, from right to left, as follows: Work single crochet (sc) stitch, working into first stitch along edge, then * make 3 chain (ch) stitches, crochet sc into first (beginning) stitch of chain-3, skip 1 or 2 stitches along edge, crochet another sc in next edge stitch, 2 Repeat from * along edge, ending with sc. Fasten off. aslip stitch edge Oe AE SL oS VVBrus SS << Work right to left on right side of work, crocheting in rounds, or work rows in the same direction, cutting yarn at end of row and starting again at right end. Crochet a slip stitch in back loop of each stitch across. Work 2 or more rows. ashell stitch edge SSS SSS SS PBB oct RBA SSS SSS See CL OL OL LL LLL ES Work in only 1 row from right to left: In first edge stitch, crochet * | single crochet (sc) stitch, 3 chain (ch) stitches, and 3 double crochet (dc) stitches; skip 2 or 3 stitches along the edge; repeat from *. =sreverse single crochet Dobe RAL EAD ALE Sete ea Sees eee De a ae Crochet a row of single crochet (sc) along knitted edge, spacing stitches to keep edge even and flat. Then, without turning work, crochet from left to right, making se in each se of row just completed. Work back to beginning of edging. Fasten off. 9394 finishing with a crochet hook Twisted Edge On right side of work, crochet a row of single crochet (sc) stitches along knitted edge. Crochet 1 chain (ch) stitch, insert hook in first sc, catch yarn with hook, and draw loop through stitch. There are 2 loops on hook; rotate hook around clockwise, twisting loops as shown. Catch yarn again with hook and draw loop through twisted loops to complete stitch. Work across row, making twisted stitches; then work back to beginning making a reverse sc (see previous page) in each twisted stitch. Because stitches come out compact and sturdy, this edging is great for heavy jackets and garments.shoulder pads Sometimes a knitted «for ae arments garment requires shoulder a pads. It is possible to buy Use the same yarn as for the garment and needles at least 1 size larger. Cast on 3 stitches, Knit in garter stitch, increasing | stitch at beginning and end sof each row. a pair, or you can make them with the same yarn you used for the garment. Work until piece is 2’4 inches (7 cm) from beginning; work even for *4 inch (2 em) more, then decrease | stitch at each end of every row. To shape shoulder pad, fold under last decrease row; fold again as shown and sew edges in place with hidden stitches. Make another shoulder pad in same way, Attach inside garment at shoulder so fold is at armhole edge. 95shoulder pads sfor medium to heavy garments TASES ; oe > AA ts Par : au es ——— F et Vs Make another piece the same way. Crochet edges of 2 l This shoulder pad is easily padded and accentuates pieces together with slip stitch, stuffing them if desired shoulders. Use the same yarn as for the garment and large before closing them completely. Make second shoulder pad the needles to cast on 3 stitches. Knit in garter stitch, increasing | _ same way and attach them in place in garment. stitch at each end on every row. When piece measures 2 inches (5 em), bind off 2 stitches at center of row every 4th row, continuing to make side increases. When piece measures 4 inches (10 cm), bind off all stitches. sfor heavy garments ] Use a double strand of same yarn as for the garment and larger needles. Cast on 5 stitches and work in stockinette stitch, increasing 2 stitches on Ist row, 4 stitches on 3rd row, 6 stitches on 5th row, Then knit in garter stitch on center stitches, knitting the first and last 4 stitches in tubular stitch. When piece measures 4 inches (10 cm), bind off 5 stitches on each side and continue working on remaining stitches in garter stitch, for another 2 inches (5 em). Bind off. Fold over 2-inch (5-cm) extension on shoulder pad and sew it in place. Make another pad the same way. Attach pads in place inside the garment with folded edge of pad at armhole edge. 96beading 1 Beads are often used to turn knitted garments into elegant wear or playful clothes for children. There are beads, sequins, and jewels in many styles, shapes, sizes, and colors available on the market. show to use beads © o 9098 © ogo . Slide beads onto yarn before beginning work in order to 2 If beads have very small holes, use a very thin needle determined how many you will need. If beads have a big threaded with a strand of sewing thread, Slide beads onto hole, thread them directly onto yarn with a needle. needle and down thread (looped over yarn as shown); carefully push them past loop and onto yarn. sworking without a pattern Use beads ona stockinette stitch garment to add texture. Slide bead along yarn to stitch you are knitting and keep it To work a bead, on right side row, insert right needle into behind this stitch. next stitch through back loop (as if to work a twisted stitch). 97beading 1 Knit stitch and withdraw right needle, slipping bead through stitch and pushing it to front of work. 4 Wrap yarn around right needle tip and, with left index finger, push bead between yarn and needle. 3 Wrap yarn around right needle tip and slide bead next to stitch. 6 On wrong side rows, insert right needle into stitch as if to make a twisted purl. 5 re wees wae y 4 re a a A ry g bead to Complete stitch and withdraw needle, pushin, right side of work through finished stitch 73 98beading 2 Working with beads is a fun “working with a pattern way of personalizing a garment. It is simple and fast, requiring no extra hassle after finishing your work. Instead, the beading “grows” as you knit and is done at the same time your garment is done. You can follow printed designs, or make your own on graph paper, with each square representing a knit stitch; use colored pencils to indicate the desired colors. If beads are used in a solid pattern, use small beads, such as seed beads, to keep your piece from bunching up. Plan carefully so you can thread beads properly as you need them in your design. TM 2 Determine which rows of chart will be knitted and which purled. Thread beads onto needle in order needed as follows: Start at top of chart (first beads threaded are last to be worked) and work down row by row, going from left to right for knit rows and right to left for purl rows. This is the opposite from the way you will read chart to knit actual piece. . If design is worked only on every other row (usually on right side), you need to thread beads starting from top row and threading left to right for each row. @.0:6 2 @elelele: Beading can be worked in other pattern stitches besides YN stockinette stitch. Garter stitch, for exanrple, can gain extra color and texture when beads are added, + Om SUF AL AAA ca 99beading 2 Working with Sequins You can buy a variety of shaped sequins that are very decorative, but too big to be passed through stitches. In this case, thread them onto yarn as for beads. To work sequin, bring yam to front of work. If you are working in garter stitch, add sequins on wrong side rows, sliding sequin close to work; then continue to knit until ready to add next sequin. Slide sequin close to work and, with sequin still in front, move yarn to back of work, then continue to work as usual. Work all sequins in this manner, adding sequins to right side of work. On following row (right side of work), knit all the stitches: The sequins will naturally remain visible from this side. Complete decoration, adding sequins every other row at desired positions.jacquard stitch This method of knitting allows you to make garments enhanced with multicolored designs in strikingly bright or subtly subdued hues. =s work in panels When you work a piece with colors knitted in vertical panels or stripes, use a separate ball of yarn for each section, even if the color is repeated across the row. To avoid holes in work when you change colors, twist yarns on back of work by dropping color just completed and bringing new color under old and up to continue working. Be sure to twist the yarns every row, keeping both yarns on the wrong side of your work. On wrong side rows, twist yarns as 2 purl stitches, This way, all yarn twists remain on wrong side of work. before and keep yarn on this side to as jacquard in two colors 1 If you need to alternate colors often (every 3 or 4 stitches) in same row, carry both colors across wrong side of work. On knit rows, hold yarn not being used in back and to left, to make it easier to use other color, You can hold | color in your right hand as usual, and the other in your left hand as for continental knitting (see page 16), alternating methods to work each color as needed. On wrong side rows, follow same procedure, always keeping yarns on wrong side. Throughout, be careful to maintain uniform tension so stitches are worked evenly without being too tight or loose. When a number of colors appear in small motifs (as for diamonds, shown), use separate yarn for each. To prevent yarns from tangling, use plastic (or homemade cardboard) bobbins. Wrap enough yarn to work one motif on each bobbin, using a separate bobbin for each color change across row. To change colors on right side, work as for panels, twisting yarn on back. On wrong side rows, twist colors as for panels, keeping all bobbins on wrong side of work. 101