Hair Physiology and Its Disorders
Hair Physiology and Its Disorders
422
                                                                                                                                              Vol. 5, No. 2 2008
                          Drug Discovery Today: Disease Mechanisms
                          Editors-in-Chief
                          Toren Finkel – National Heart, Lung and Blood Institute, National Institutes of Health, USA
DRUG DISCOVERY            Charles Lowenstein – The John Hopkins School of Medicine, Baltimore, USA
TODAY
DISEASE
MECHANISMS Common skin conditions and disorders
1740-6765/$ ß 2008 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.   DOI: 10.1016/j.ddmec.2008.04.001                                                                   e163
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proven significant for the correct development and geogra-                         condensate of specialized mesenchymal cells has important
phical distribution of hair follicle formation through the skin                    inductive and hair growth regulatory properties [3]. In fact,
[10].                                                                              surgical removal of the dermal papilla and the lower dermal
   Of particular note, Wnt gene products and associated                            sheath prevents hair growth, which indicates the importance
intracellular mediators of cell signaling, b-catenin and                           of these specialized mesenchymal cells as a key signaling
LEF1 have been shown to be fundamental to hair follicle                            center in hair follicles [16].
embryogenesis [11,12]. The subsequent cascade of activated
signaling pathways mediated by b-catenin and LEF1 include                          Hair follicle growth cycling
ectodysplasin A (EDA), noggin, transforming growth factor                          Three main phases of the growth cycle are recognized – a
beta 2 (TGFb2), TGFbR-II, b1 integrin and neural cell adhe-                        growth phase (anagen phase I–VI), regression phase (catagen)
sion molecule (NCAM) among others. Experimental induc-                             and resting phase (telogen) [4]. The time duration of each
tion of their respective expression induces hair follicle                          phase depends on the type and location of the hair follicle.
formation suggesting a significant role for these factors in                       Under physiological conditions, approximately 85% of scalp
hair follicle development. By contrast, multiple inhibitors of                     hair follicles are in anagen while 15% are in a telogen phase
hair follicle placode formation, such as bone morphogenic                          [5]. The duration of anagen in healthy scalp hair follicles is
protein (BMP)-2, BMP-4, p75NTR and activin ba are also                             typically two to six years and is the principle determinant of
expressed in the embryonic skin and may serve to regulate                          hair length. The anagen phase is followed by a short resting
the distribution pattern and size of hair follicles [10].                          phase, catagen. Catagen is characterized by a cessation of
   It has previously been asserted that no new follicles                           protein and pigment production, involution of the hair
develop after birth and that the immense regenerative capa-                        follicle and a fundamental restructuring of the extracellular
city within hair follicles serves only to induce anagen forma-                     matrix. In telogen, the hair follicle regresses to less than half
tion and epithelial repair following wounding. Recently some                       its anagen phase size. Morphologically, all that remains is a
hair follicle inductive capacity has been identified following                     peg of epithelial cells overlying a cluster of quiescent dermal
wounding and again Wnt expression seems important in                               papilla cells. Hair cycle synchronization is lost after the
determining cell fate as epithelial cells migrate out of hair                      second moult wave shortly after birth. Hereafter hairs cycle
follicles to participate in wound repair [13].                                     independently and seasonal moulting is not seen in humans
                                                                                   [3].
Hair follicle morphology                                                              Recent research suggests that hair fiber shedding is an
Hair follicles are formed with multiple epithelium- and                            active and highly controlled process, which differs from the
mesenchyme-derived cell layers each performing unique                              quiescence typically found throughout much of the telogen
functions and together comprising more than 20 distinct cell                       phase. The term ‘exogen’ has been introduced to identify
populations. The hair follicle, along with the sebaceous gland                     the hair fiber shedding event as a separate process during
and the arrector pili muscle, form the so-called ‘pilosebaceous                    hair follicle cycling [17]. The morphology of the hair root
unit’ [14]. The relative proportions of individual components                      suggests that the exogen process involves a proteolytic event
within the pilosebaceous unit vary between different hair                          in the cells of the telogen shaft base. The nature of this
follicle types but the fundamental structure essentially                           shedding process remains to be identified. However, desmo-
remains the same. In the scalp skin, terminal hair follicle                        glein 3 appears to have a role in maintaining telogen hair
units comprise groups of three to five individual follicles that                   anchorage within the follicle and loss of desmoglein 3 is
are surrounded by a fibrous sheath and may share a common                          associated with exogen [18]. Empty hair follicles after shed-
arrector pili muscle.                                                              ding of the hair fiber, but before the onset of renewed
   The hair follicle can be divided into a permanent super-                        anagen, are in a stage termed ‘kenogen’. Kenogen can be
ficial structure and a transient cycling region, which includes                    observed in healthy skin, but the frequency and duration are
the hair bulb. The dividing line between the permanent and                         significantly greater in individuals with androgenetic alo-
transient parts of a hair follicle lies immediately below the                      pecia [19].
hair follicle bulge region and the insertion point of the                             Under normal physiological conditions, each hair follicle
arrector pili muscle. The bulge region has particular impor-                       will continue to cycle throughout life. These cycles are regu-
tance in hair follicle growth. It is a specialized compartment                     lated by specific changes in the local signaling milieu, based
of the outer root sheath in which epithelial and neurecto-                         on changes in the expression of cytokines, hormones, neu-
dermal stem cells are believed to reside [15].                                     rotransmitters and their receptors as well as transcription
   Hair fiber and inner root sheath growth is a consequence of                     factors and enzymes, which act via endocrine, paracrine or
rapid proliferation of keratinocyte transit amplifying                             autocrine routes. What determines the clock mechanism and
cells that reside in the bulb region adjacent to the dermal                        the duration of anagen in individual hair follicles is not
papilla during an anagen growth phase. The dermal papilla                          known, although many hypotheses have been suggested [4].
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   Hair growth and onset of a new anagen growth phase                               factors (FGFs) and hairless, a mediator of Wnt signaling [10]
recapitulates hair follicle embryogenesis and reutilizes simi-                      (Fig. 1).
lar molecular signaling pathways. As with hair follicle
embryogenesis, the primary initiators (as currently known)                          Hair biology applied to hair disorders
for the start of a new hair growth cycle and onset of anagen                        The biological properties of hair follicles contribute to our
involve Wnt/b-catenin signaling pathway interaction. WNT                            perceptions and definitions of what is a hair disorder. Alo-
proteins are strongly expressed in hair follicle bulge epithe-                      pecias or hypertrichoses are, in essence, an observation of too
lial cells adjacent to the dermal papilla at anagen onset.                          little or too much hair fiber over an area of skin significantly
Several studies have demonstrated that the perturbation of                          different from the norm as defined by society. In other words,
Wnt signaling inhibits cell proliferation and dermal pene-                          changes to the parameters of hair follicle number per unit
tration events subsequent to anagen initiation. Overexpres-                         area of skin, changes in hair follicle size and growth cycle
sion of Wnt and Wnt-associated proteins such as sonic                               time duration determine cosmetic hair coverage and
hedgehog (Shh) induces anagen in telogen stage hair follicles                       whether or not an individual has a hair disorder (Figs 2,3).
[20,21]. Many other molecules are believed to be involved in                        One or more of these factors may lie behind the development
hair cycle regulation including multiple fibroblast growth                          of a hair growth disorder and the net impact of involvement
                                                                                   初期
                      毛发生长初期的促进和维持
                                                                                         毛发生长中期到终期的促进和维持
早初期
中期
终期
   Figure 1. Selected factors with known hair growth regulatory roles. Selected signaling factors with known anagen promotion or maintenance properties
   (left) versus catagen–telogen promotion or maintenance properties (right) in the hair growth cycle. Anagen promoters: b-catenin; FGF2, fibroblast growth
   factor 2; FGF7, fibroblast growth factor 7 (keratinocyte growth factor); HGF, hepatocyte growth factor; IGF1, insulin-like growth factor 1; LEF1, lymphoid
   enhancer binding factor 1; MSP, macrophage stimulating factor; PDGF, platelet-derived growth factor; SHH, sonic hedgehog; TGFa, transforming growth
   factor alpha; NOG, noggin; PRL, prolactin; VEGF, vascular endothelial growth factor; WNTs, multiple WNT factors. Catagen–telogen promoters: BDNF,
   brain-derived neurotrophic factor; BMP-2, bone morphogenetic protein 2; BMP-4, bone morphogenetic protein 4; EGF, epidermal growth factor; FGF2,
   fibroblast growth factor 2; FGF5, fibroblast growth factor 5; IL1, interleukin 1; IL6, interleukin 6; IFNg, interferon gamma; NT3, neurotrophin 3; OSM,
   oncostatin M; PTH, parathyroid hormone; TAC1, substance P; TGFb1, transforming growth factor beta 1; TGFb2, transforming growth factor beta 2.
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   Figure 2. Changes in hair follicle parameters associated with hair disorder development. All hair loss disorders can be reduced to three essential
   mechanisms that involve hair follicle density, hair follicle size and hair growth cycle duration. Compared to a normal hair follicle density (a), a reduction in
   the density of hair follicles per unit area can reduce the apparent coverage of skin by hair (b). A reduction in the size of the hair follicles in an area of skin can
   also result in reduced hair coverage (c).
of more than one factor may be greater than the sum of the                                hair follicle formation does occur at a normal density, but the
parts.                                                                                    hair follicles fail to regenerate following their second or third
                                                                                          catagen. Congenital atrichia and Marie Unna hypotrichosis
Congenital disorders of hair growth                                                       are good examples where hair follicles form and grow hair in
Congenital disorders of hair growth are almost always genetic                             their first full cycle, but fail to survive and successfully enter
rather than environmental. Fundamentally a congenital alo-                                subsequent hair growth cycles. Such conditions involve
pecia or hypertrichosis is because of a problem in the correct                            mutations in one or more genes that are functionally sig-
embryogenic formation of hair follicles. As hair coverage is                              nificant for cohesive hair follicle structure maintenance. The
defined by hair follicle density, size and growth cycle,                                  late onset, patterned destruction of hair follicles in Marie
embryogenic modifications to these parameters can result                                  Unna hypotrichosis makes this condition unique.
in congenital hair growth disorders.                                                         Whether hair follicles are terminal or vellus in nature and
   The most obvious embryogenic modification possible is a                                their number and distribution are at the root of congenital
reduction in the number of hair follicles formed per unit area                            hypertrichosis. In utero, babies are covered from head to toe
of skin. Aplasia cutis congenita, in which regions of skin fail                           by a uniform coat of fine lanugo hair about 1 cm in length.
to form correctly, is an example. Several forms of congenital                             Shortly before full-term the scalp hairs elongate into terminal
hypotrichosis may also involve a failure of development of                                hairs, the eyebrows remain unchanged, while the remaining
the full complement of hair follicles. However, more typically                            involute into vellus hairs. The expected norm is terminal hair
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   Figure 3. Changes in hair growth cycles associated with hair disorder development. Changes to the hair growth cycle that elicit hair growth disorders can
   take one or more of three key presentations. Compared to a normal hair growth cycle time course (a), changes to the hair growth cycle can occur such that
   the duration of anagen is truncated yielding brief production of short and fine hair fibers (b). Equally, changes to the hair growth cycle can involve a
   prolongation of the resting telogen phase after the hair from the previous growth cycle is shed (c).
follicle distribution restricted to the scalp and eyebrows and                     long, fine, unpigmented hair growth. Again, the density of
vellus hair follicles to cover the face and body in newborns.                      hair follicles has not been altered and the distribution of
When terminal hair follicles form beyond these limits and                          terminal and vellus hair follicles is correct. The problem is
take the place of vellus hair follicles on the face and else-                      one entirely based on an unusually long duration of anagen
where, the consequence is diagnosed as congenital hypertri-                        growth in facial and body vellus hair follicles. FGF5 knock-
chosis. In this event the density of hair follicles is presumed to                 out mice have an angora phenotype and are thought to be
be unaltered. Rather, the size of the hair follicle that develops                  the animal correlate of congenital hypertrichosis lanugi-
is inappropriate for the skin region.                                              nosa [4].
   Finally, the hair growth cycle duration can play a role.
Congenital hypertrichosis lanuginosa is a disorder in which                        Acquired disorders of hair growth
the duration of the anagen growth phase is prolonged                               Acquired disorders of hair growth are more complex in
beyond the norm in vellus hair follicles, the net result being                     their nature and the hair biology parameters involved.
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Fundamentally though, the three factors of hair follicle den-                      Principle biological objectives of hair disorder
sity, size and growth cycle parameters underlie acquired                           treatments
disorders.                                                                         Hair disorders are fundamentally caused by the changes in
   Which of these biological hair growth factors is predomi-                       hair follicle density, size and/or changes to the hair growth
nant varies with different diagnoses. In telogen effluvium, for                    cycle. The principle of any hair disorder treatment should be
example, changes to the hair growth cycle predominate. Hair                        to directly modulate one or more of these parameters. What
follicle density remains the same and a switch in hair follicle                    approach is taken depends in part on the nature of the hair
size from terminal to vellus does not occur. By contrast,                          growth disorder. Where the underlying cause of the changes
cicatricial alopecia development relies more or less exclu-                        to hair growth density, size and growth cycle is known, the
sively on loss of hair follicle density through follicle destruc-                  most obvious approach is to target the initiating disease
tion.                                                                              mechanism. Treatment to remove the disease-initiating
   The most common alopecia, androgenetic alopecia, pro-                           event, while not directly acting on the affected hair follicles,
duces a patterned baldness that is a good example of a                             may enable the damaged hair follicles to recover through
condition that involves complex changes in more than                               their inherent regenerative capacity. The range of possible
one biological parameter. Arguably, changes to hair growth                         hair disease initiating mechanisms involved varies signifi-
cycling are the dominant issue in early pattern baldness. The                      cantly from hormonal activity and stress, to inflammatory
development of pattern baldness involves a reduction in the                        responses and genetic mutation. The considerable hetero-
percentage of scalp hair follicles in anagen, a reduction in the                   geneity of hair disorder pathogeneses cannot be reviewed
anagen growth phase duration, and a corresponding increase                         here. However, given many hair disorders involve changes to
in the percentage of hair follicles in telogen and an increase in                  hair follicle distribution, size and growth cycle, it is poten-
the duration of telogen. These alterations, in combination                         tially possible to treat multiple disorders through the devel-
with a shift in the exogen phase from primarily occurring in                       opment of treatments modulating one or more of these
early anagen to initiation primarily during telogen, result in                     parameters.
thinning hair coverage [4].
   The predominant biological hair growth factor involved                          Hair follicle density replication
also varies over time for the same diagnosis. In pattern                           For disorders in which hair follicle density is the predominant
baldness, while the initial dominant biological factor in                          concern, such as end stage androgenetic alopecia, scarring
the disorder is a change in hair growth cycling, later the                         alopecia or congenital hypotrichoses, the primary objective
switch in hair follicle size from terminal to vellus dominates.                    in new treatment development should be to generate new
Ultimately, some loss of hair follicle density occurs as vellus                    hair follicles from adult skin. On initial consideration such an
hair follicles are destroyed. This loss of hair follicle density                   idea might be rejected as absurd; however, a long history of
contributes less to a loss of meaningful hair coverage given                       evidence suggests such an event is possible. Variously termed
the hair follicles are vellus in nature, but the loss in hair                      hair replication, hair multiplication, hair cloning and follicular
follicle density reduces options for treating pattern bald-                        neogenesis, the creation of new hair follicles has been demon-
ness. If hair follicles survive in some form there is the                          strated. Cultured dermal papilla cells or dermal sheath ‘cup’
potential to correct their aberrant size or growth cycle. Once                     cells from the bulbar region of hair follicles can be implanted
they have gone, scalp reduction surgery, hair transplanta-                         and shown to regenerate new hair follicles as well as to
tion, or in the future hair follicle replication, are the only                     enlarge resident hair follicles [23]. This cell-based therapeutic
options.                                                                           approach is currently an active area of commercial research
   Alopecia areata, the second most common alopecia seen in                        by several companies.
dermatology clinics, is a particularly complex acquired hair                          Initiation of hair follicle formation in postnatal skin by
disorder. Loss of hair follicle immune privilege and exposure                      molecular and genetic manipulation might also be possible.
of hair follicle autoantigens are believed to lead to infiltration                 For some time it has been speculated that hair follicle for-
of inflammatory cells and premature termination of the                             mation could occur in response to wounding. Recent research
anagen phase, respectively. Transmission of the signal to                          has demonstrated that such an event can occur and is Wnt
neighboring follicles sets up a molt wave emanating from                           signaling dependent [13]. However, given the significant
the central focus that most commonly peters out and results                        potential danger of initiating unregulated skin neoplasia
in a circular patch of bald scalp. Hair follicle miniaturization                   growths with such an approach it remains to be seen whether
is a prominent feature of alopecia areata, however, although                       a molecular- or genetic-based treatment to induce hair folli-
the histology of these miniaturized hairs is indistinguishable                     cles to form is feasible. In practical terms, the development of
from those seen in androgenetic alopecia; these hairs main-                        drug-based treatments is more likely to focus on modifying
tain the capacity to rapidly revert into terminal hairs once the                   the size and growth cycle of resident hair follicles as opposed
inflammatory signals die out [22].                                                 to inducing new hair follicle formation.
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  Hair follicle size manipulation                                                     follicles to miniaturized vellus-like hair follicles correspond-
  Hair follicle size determines the size of the hair fiber produced                   ingly results in a switch from terminal hair fiber to vellus hair
  and hair follicle size has been linked to the size of the dermal                    fiber production. This switch in size seems to be the conse-
  papilla. Larger dermal papillae dictate thicker hair fiber growth.                  quence of dermal papillae responding to androgen hormones
  In androgenetic alopecia, the switch from large terminal hair                       with a reduction in cell numbers. Consequently, a focus of hair
 Hair follicle             Hair follicle replication         Increased number of new               Aderans Research, Inc.   Pilot clinical trials      [23,32]
  regeneration             and/or reactivation               hair follicles and/or increase                                 complete                 Pilot临床试验已经完成
 毛囊的再生                     using cell implantation           size of miniaturized hair follicles   Intercytex, Inc.         Phase II clinical trials 计划于2008年临床II期
                        利用细胞移植使毛囊                                                                                           planned for 2008         试验
                                                             增加新毛囊数目或者
                        复制或者是再生                              增加小型化毛囊大小                             Phoenix Bio Co., Ltd     Unknown
  Hair follicle               Surgical transplantation Modification of hair follicle     Multiple   Available commercially                            [33]
   redistribution             of hair follicles from   density in alopecic scalp regions 改善在脱发的头皮区域中     可用于商业用途
  毛囊的重新分布                     donor regions to 外科手术从供体的部位移植毛囊                            毛囊密度
                              alopecic scalp skin 脱发的头皮皮肤中
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disorder development research has been on preventing dermal                        ceutical industry despite the considerable commercial poten-
papilla cell responses to androgens or overcoming their                            tial. In part, the reluctance to enter the field may be because of
response by an increase in hair follicle growth activity. Finas-                   the complexity of the hair follicle unit and the many issues to
teride and dutasteride both block conversion of testosterone                       be addressed in the development of an effective treatment.
into the more biologically active derivative dihydrotestoester-                    Our understanding of how hair follicles function and why
one and administration to balding men arrests and partially                        changes to the hair follicle density, size and growth cycle
reverses hair follicle miniaturization [24–26] (Table 1).                          occur during disorder development is poorly understood. As a
   Minoxidil is a hair loss product with the ability to increase                   result, no clear avenue of investigation has emerged. How-
the size of miniaturized hair follicles in addition to initiating                  ever, several biotech companies have been formed in recent
anagen growth in telogen stage hair follicles [24,27]. Its                         years, primarily driven by academic scientists with an interest
specific mechanism of action is unclear but as a potassium                         in hair biology. With time these companies may develop new
channel opener, it has a significant positive effect on dermal                     treatment approaches to hair loss and hypertrichosis.
papilla cells. By promoting increased dermal papilla cell
activity, minoxidil might increase the dermal papilla cell
                                                                                   Acknowledgements
signaling to the rest of the pilosebaceous unit resulting in
                                                                                   KJM is supported by the National Alopecia Areata Foundation
an increase in size. More recently, commercial development
                                                                                   (NAAF), the Canadian Dermatology Foundation (CDF), The
of Shh signaling as a method of increasing hair follicle size
                                                                                   Michael Smith Foundation for Health Research (MSFHR) and
and modifying the growth cycle has also been reported [28]. It
                                                                                   the Canadian Institutes of Health Research (CIHR). RS is
is probable that several other molecular approaches to hair
                                                                                   supported by the National Alopecia Areata Foundation
follicle enlargement remain to be discovered.
                                                                                   (NAAF), the National Health and Medical Research Council
                                                                                   (NHMRC), the Scientific Research Fund of the Australian
Hair follicle growth cycle modulation
                                                                                   College of Dermatologists and the Australian Dermatology
The key event in the hair growth cycle that contributes to
                                                                                   Research and Education Fund.
alopecia is the relationship of exogen hair shedding to anagen
and telogen. If exogen occurs in a typical sequence during early
anagen then old telogen hair fiber is shed but replaced quickly                    References
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