The project has been implemented by the Cyprus Tourism Organisation

and co-funded 50% by the European Regional Development Fund

of the European Union (ERDF) and 50% by national resources.

The task of ERDF is:

«Helping reduse the gap betwwen development levels and living standards among the regions

and the extent to which least-favoured regions are lagging behind.

Helping redress the main regional imbalances in the Community by participating

in the development and structural adjustment of regions whose development is lagging

behind and the economic and social conversion of regions».

ISBN 978-9963-44-097-9

cheers along!
 ...explore them!

Come - tour, taste and enjoy!

Wine is not a new story for Cyprus. Recent archaeological excavations which have been
undertaken on the island have confirmed the thinking that this small tranche of earth has been
producing wine for almost 5000 years. The discoveries testify that Cyprus may well be the cradle
of wine development in the entire Mediterranean basin, from Greece, to Italy and France.

This historic panorama of continuous wine history that the island possesses is just one of
the reasons that make a trip to the wine villages such a fascinating prospect. A second important
reason is the wines of today - finding and getting to know our regional wineries, which are mostly
small and enchanting. Remember, though, it is important always to make contact first to arrange
your visit.

The third and best reason is the wine you will sample during your journeys along the “Wine
Routes” of Cyprus. From the traditional indigenous varieties of Mavro (for red and rosé wines) and
the white grape Xynisteri, plus the globally unique Koumandaria to well - known global varieties,
such as Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. Let’s take a wine walk.
The wine is waiting for us!

Production: Cyprus Tourism Organisation

Text: Patrick Skinner
Design: Appios & Metaxas Communications Ltd
Photography: CTO Archives
Printing: J.G Cassoulides & Son Ltd
10’ 2008

2
3
4
Contents
A long story 4

Route 1 Laona - Akamas 6

Route 2 Vouni Panagias - Ampelitis 18

Route 3 Diarizos Valley 34

Route 4 Krasochoria Lemesou (Wine Villages of Lemesos) 46

Route 5 Koumandaria 64

Route 6 Pitsilia 78

General Information 93

3
 A long story...
The human, cultural and gastronomic tableaux demonstrate more than one aspect of
customs and traditions of the vine and wine wine making and consumption (even excess!)
do, indeed, go back a long time in Cyprus, including the god Dionysos. Archaeological
to the times of ancient Egypt and early relics, ancient depictions on mosaic and
civilisations in neighbouring areas. Belief other items give way to the practical, like the
that Cyprus has had one of the very oldest ancient wine presses in Omodos, Laneia and
wine industries of the world was proven elsewhere, and the enormous “Amphora” (terra
by the recent excavations of the noted cotta jar) dated by their makers. The Greek for
archaeologist Dr. Maria Belgiorno, from Italy. these is Pithari and Pitharia (plural) and they
Her findings confirmed what many experts are a very visible component of old winemaking
had long suspected, that the vine and wine- in Cyprus. All these, and the simple tools for
making had flourished on this island since craing the vineyards and the equipment for
at least 3500 BC, five and a half thousand making wine used by our forebears, can be
years ago. The most up-to-date equipment found in museums and collections small and
and techniques were used to establish that large all over Cyprus. They are the remarkable
grape seeds in two wine vessels excavated testimony of our wine heritage.
in Pyrgos, were more than 5,000 years old.
And then, in Erimi village, the archaeologists At Laneia, which is not far from the
unearthed 18 vessels, 12 of which had been Koumandaria villages, the old wine press is in
used for wine, dating from 3500 - 3000 BC. close proximity to two huge clay vessels (used
This priceless cultural heritage is the oldest until quite recently for fermenting wine), which
in the Mediterranean and proves beyond are clearly dated 1844. This is an interesting
doubt that Cyprus is the cradle of oenological coincidence because it is the year that Cyprus’s
development throughout the Mediterranean first contemporary wine company, ETKO Ltd.,
basin, from Greece to Italy and France and all was founded by the Haggipavlou family. The
other corners where there was vine and wine- vine press is of unique pan-Hellenic design and
making activity in ancient times. is unaltered since its making and in working
order. This makes it a particularly precious
Cyprus is littered with the story of its wine item of Cyprus wine history…
history, visible in many ways. From Greco -
Roman times are the colourful and exciting Omodos is a large busy village with
mosaics in Pafos and elsewhere, whose considerable archaeological interest and it is
also one of the most important wine villages

4
of Cyprus, surrounded by vineyards and with
four wine - making enterprises. Here, too,
there is a very old wine press, that has been
declared an Ancient Monument and belongs to
the Department of Antiquities. The press and
the building housing it, have been rebuilt and
restored.

Before electricity, every process was

carried out by humans or domesticated
animals. The olive press, and the pumps at
water wells, were powered by donkeys. Wine
was pressed either by the feet of the winery
workers or pressed by various devices made
of seasoned wood. In this stone building,
dominated by an arch similar to the one at the
Monastery of Timios Stavros (Holy Cross) not
far away, is a very large example. Its operation
depended upon a crew of three or more
people - to load the grapes (and later, aer
pressing, remove the debris), manipulate the
press and organise the flow of juice. It was a
complex and tiring operation, today replaced
by electrically powered metal machinery of
considerable sophistication.

An old wine press, of which there is a very good

example in Fikardou village, having been maintained by
the Department of Antiquities since 1988.

5
 1 Laona - Akamas
route

Pafos, Mesogi, Tsada, Stroumpi, Kathikas, Akourdaleia,

Pano Arodes, Kato Arodes, Ineia, Drouseia, Polis Chrysochous,
Pegeia, Pafos

CREATING THE
MOOD TO EXPLORE!
This route follows age-old pathways in almost unexpectedly, we come to tiny villages
the north-western department of Cyprus. which figure the landscape from time to time
It offers some uniquely interesting vistas, not - the area is sparsely populated and this,
merely those associated with vines and wines. perhaps, is a contributory factor to create the
Whilst exploring this area, the touring lover lovely rustic, rural atmosphere…
of food and wine will have the opportunity
to visit five wineries and to try some most Nature’s crowning glory of this particular
interesting wines, which they will find add to vines and wines region is the Akamas
our Cyprus food on their palate. There are Peninsula. Away from building development,
plenty of tavernas along the way, where the it is the unspoilt area of Cyprus, with its flora
hosts will ensure they do not disappoint. The and fauna rooted in the mists of time. In the
bonus, however, is that as well as tickling the set of the land, its close association with the
taste buds and satisfying our needs for food sea, in its vegetation and wild life, Akamas is a
and drink, there is a remarkable panorama of wondrous place. Here the visitor can immerse
scenery, cultural, geographic and geological themselves in simply experiencing the beauty
interest spread out, of which there is nothing and revel in the timelessness of the place.
similar on the island. The traveller, perhaps replete from Cyprus
hospitality with its ever-ready supplies of food
Generally speaking we shall travel along and drink, can enter here another
secondary roads, mainly on the E701 and world, a perfect antidote to the
E709. The road ascends steadily, passing pleasures of the table.
from the cultivated fields, shrubs and bushes
to taller vegetation and the crowning glory
of the patch worked fields of vines. One
fascinating vista follows another as we weave
our way upwards through delightful valleys
and views to the forest areas. And then,

6
 GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS
The paths we take in the Akamas peninsula Vineyards: The region of Kathikas is
quickly demonstrate what a unique place it best known for white varieties, mainly the
is, with much more than the superficial views indigenous Xynisteri. Most of the villages on
to see, lovely though they are. For anyone the route are classified with the “Controlled
interested in geology, vegetation and wild Denomination of Origin” (WCNO) “Laona
life, it is a place where time spent rewards the - Akamas”. Nineteen grape varieties are
visitor. The relatively peaceful environment cultivated:
and the charm of many rural buildings ensure White varieties: Plant X Malvasia G.,
that the route is a pleasure for the walker and Plant X, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Semillon,
lover of birds, insects and plant growth. Chardonnay, Muscat, Xynisteri.
And, needless to say, almost wherever we go
we encounter vines, vines and more vines. Red varieties: Mavro, Ohalmo, Carignan,
Along our route we shall find five wineries we Mataro, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc,
can visit. Alicante B., Grenache, Shiraz, Merlot, Lefkada,
Maratheiko
Climate: From sea level, the land rises to hilly
undulations of 450 to 600 m altitude. Annual
rainfall is about 620 millimetres.
The climate is generally mild.

Terrain: Most vine yards on this route grow

on limestone formations while some, on
gypsum - clay beds.

This route follows age-old

pathways in the north-western
department of Cyprus.

7
8
Η ΔΙΑΔΡΟΜΗ
THE ROUTE
We start our journey northwards on the B7 verdant valley. The monastery is in a beautiful
road to Polis. Aer a very short drive (about location at an altitude of 412 metres. The site
5 km) and while still surrounded by shops, is enhanced by a marvellous paved square,
showrooms, businesses of all descriptions surrounded by sycamore, cypress and poplar
and residences, we make our first stop. We trees. The Chapel, carved out of the rock in
turn off le, at Mesogi, into the Industrial which the hermit saint (1134-1214) lived, is
Estate, where, near the top of the area we well preserved and may be visited.
find one of the foremost wineries of Cyprus, Aer this, we return to the B7 and
that of “FIKARDOS”. One of the first regional continue in a northerly direction to the
producers, established in 1990, owner village of Tsada. It’s a picturesque place,
Theodoros inherited the family traditions of with both traditional and modern buildings
winemaking, adding to them state-of-the-art sitting comfortably together, with charming
equipment and modern know-how in planning, walks through the small streets. The stone-
production and marketing. Although owning built fountains, by the names of Gerolakkos,
no vineyards of his own, he has long-term Rodkias and Pyadkia, have a folklore beauty.
contracts with local grape-growers and a deep What makes the stop even more pleasant is
understanding of wine-making. the exceptional views across the vines and
This has resulted in a sustained and reliable plantations to the sea. Tsada is one of the
flow of many grape varieties, enabling the important viticultural villages of the region.
winery both to experiment and to produce a Now to continue our travel, the well made
large range of table wines. road up to Stroumpi twists and turns, with
The grapes “FIKARDOS” Winery uses are scenic views upwards and down into gorges.
the red Maratheiko, Lefkada, Shiraz, Cabernet
Sauvignon, Merlot and the white Xynisteri,
Chardonnay and Semillon. Fikardos offers both
“varietals” (made from just one grape variety)
and blends of several grape varieties. When Organising a Winery Visit
visiting, taste across the range, such as the
“Valentina” rosé, the white “Amalthia” and On any of the Wine Routes set out
“Alkisti” and the red Shiraz. The winery is open in these pages, you are never more
to visitors every day and offers a very good than 15 minutes by car from a winery
perspective of the wine-making capabilities that has visitor facilities. For example,
of this area. Across the main road from the in Koilani Village there are no less than
Industrial Estate you can find the nice little four producers within walking distance.
Omodos and Vasa have another five
village of Mesogi, which is well known for
between them. There are very few
making cane baskets. You can buy them from isolated wineries, just a couple in the
the local shops if you wish. Lefkosia District, so it’s not difficult to
Before we continue our wine exploration, plan an itinerary to suit your wishes. It
we can make an interesting side visit to an is important to bear in mind that many
important site, the Monastery of the Cypriot wineries have a small number of staff,
Agios Neofytos the Recluse. Take the turning so it is best always to telephone to fix
sign-posted off the B7 at the top of Mesogi. the day and time of your visit.
Drive through the village of Tremithousa
through an area of considerable natural beauty
that leads to a winding road through a deep

9
 Stroumpi is at an altitude of 450 metres, and, here. Millions of bottles of its “Islands Vines”
not surprisingly, it is deeply involved in vines are exported to Britain every year, and a
and wine. number of interesting varietals and blends
Anyone accustomed to large open (such as Riesling-Xynisteri) are made. The
flatlands planted with millions of vines is oen well established medium-priced “Mountain
surprised at Cyprus’s many tiny vineyards Vines” (the red based on mostly Cabernet
frequently planted on steep slopes, which Sauvignon and the white on Xynisteri with a
are oen inaccessible to any form of vehicle, little Semillon) are worth trying.
necessitating the use of donkeys or mules to SODAP is also installing a museum
bring out the grapes at harvest time. More showing old grape cultivation and wine-making
than a thousand of these animals are still equipment and machinery, as well as a modern
working on the island. tasting room, a restaurant / cafeteria and
Here the predominant grape varieties other amenities for the wine visitor.
are the Mavro -red and Xynisteri -white. The At Polemi village, a few kilometres to the
Mavro, a low-acid grape, is being phased eastward, is the next winery on our itinerary,
out, with high-acid local and well-known “TSALAPATIS WINES”. This is a moderately
international varieties planted in its place. sized modern plant, making 100,000 bottles
Every year, in August, Stroumpi organises the a year of quality wines. Grapes come from
“Dionysia” Grape Festival. If you are visiting at 30 acres of privately owned vineyards. In the
that time, it’s a good event to go to. In walking naturally cool below-ground wine ‘caves’ you
around Stroumpi you may see a number of can taste and buy from a small but interesting
interesting churches, old and new, small and range: Xynisteri, of course, but also Sauvignon
large and all of some architectural, historical Blanc and a red blend of Mataro and Lefkada.
or religious interest. We continue our travel north-westerly
One kilometre from Stroumpi, on the and one kilometre aer Stroumpi we leave
road to Polemi, lies the “KAMANTERENA” the B7 and take a le street turn (E711) for
Winery of the big Co-Operative organisation Kathikas. On the way, through mellow vine-
SODAP. It is the largest wine production plant strewn countryside, we can take a side-trip
in Cyprus, built in 2004. A large functional to the right to the tiny village of Theletra
building with thoroughly modern equipment (200 residents) and on the same road another
and with rows of almond trees and vineyards hamlet called Giolou, where there is a small
outside, a range of successful wines is made restaurant. You will remember the wine you
10
drink with your meal, but most especially the The sun moves across its arc and reminds
fresh bread that accompanies the food! the traveller it is time to move on and see
And so to Kathikas, set in a rolling more. In short we motor on to the viticultural
patchwork of vineyards, trees, dry stone walls area Laona - Akamas! So, we leave Kathikas
and agricultural activity. It is a pretty area with behind us and aer two kilometres we take
plenty of photo opportunities. the small road to our le that leads to several
Spreading out from a central square picturesque villages. Stops to just gaze and
housing its Church, the little streets of take in the scenery are called for, with lots of
Kathikas enchant the walking visitor with photo chances, too. A cup of the traditional
small village houses, family-run shops selling Cyprus coffee, with its attendant glass of
local produce, as well as good places to eat. cool water, is also a good idea -to help digest
Kathikas has two wineries. Both, in different what we have eaten and drunk so far, and to
ways, are worth a visit. clear our organs of taste and smell and our
appetites for delights to come.
“K&K VASILIKON WINERY” has an
excellent reputation for its two popular staple Firstly we come to Pano Arodes village,
wines. The white wine, “Vasilikon” is made characterised by well maintained stone -
from 95% Xynisteri and 5% Semillon. It is built houses and the renovated Church of
fresh, fruity and ideal with locally caught fresh Agios Kalantionas. In the square there is a
fish and seafood. The red “Ayios Onoufrios”, pretty coffee shop at which to relax if you
blended from Mavro, Mataro, Cabernet so desire and take in the local scene, which
Sauvignon and Grenache, is a best-seller. includes the residents. Locals, sometimes just
The Kyriakides brothers, who started the sitting and talking, other times playing Tavli
winery in 1993, now produce more than (Backgammon), seem to shout at each other
300,000 bottles a year. Their wines are and visitors may think they are arguing.
made largely from grapes grown in their own But this is just the way people converse.
vineyards, in a modern purpose-built plant But here there is space and bird-song to
faced in stone and with tiled roof to blend compensate for loud conversation!
into the local rural environment. Visitors are One kilometre north, in Kato Arodes, we
welcome by appointment and may taste the propose that you stand for a few moments and
wines and tour the winery. consider the white oblong vaulted Community
On the other side of the village you find Office, which reminds one of an 18th century
“STERNA” winery, a very popular tourist church without a bell tower. Carrying on
destination, where many people happily northwards we come to the village of Ineia,
sit outside the front door or on the terrace where the panoramic view to the sea is
sampling the wines and enjoying local food. breathtaking. The slope shelves gently down to
Here the cave is a very genuine one, said to the coast of Akamas, where our turtles breed.
be around 2,000 years old, where Sterna In Ineia, the observant traveller will note that
wines are stored. At weekends your guide the local signs are old-fashioned, denoting the
could well be the son of the producer, the ten village as “Oinia”, which indicates its origin
year old Panagiotis! The north-eastern view from the Greek word for «Wine». Here you can
from the enormous balcony of the winery visit a museum of basketry.
is stunning. The range features pungent, Just a little up the road is busy Drouseia,
earthy wines which suit the local pork and a large village, and a popular destination for
sausage specialities. The Xynisteri goes tourists - Cypriots and visitors alike. Set in the
well with grilled fish. The grapes which make rolling hills with lovely views in each direction,
these unique products are from 140 acres of it is a great place for a weekend, with hotels
privately owned vineyards. and other accommodations, restaurants,

11
 tavernas and shops. Almost needless to say,
there are vineyards all around, providing
Don’t take it down, swathes of green throughout even the hottest
it’s no shame! summers. Among Drouseia’s attractions is
Bearing in mind that you are in the Textile Museum.
charge of a motor car and that wine Instead of taking the direct road to Polis
consumption should always be made in out of Drouseia, we can go back to the E709
and cross it to visit Kritou Tera. “Park and
moderation, if you plan to visit a number
Walk” is the motto here, as you will see when
of wineries, it is advisable not to swallow
you encounter the narrow little streets of this
all the wine you taste. In all the wineries traditional settlement with ample evidence of
on our Routes you will find receptacles its long rural heritage. The water-driven mill,
for emptying your glass aer tasting, the old coffee shop with its murals and paved
and for expelling the wine when you have ways are things that will live in our memories
looked, sniffed, swirled and tasted. as we turn back to drive the few kilometres
to Polis.
There is plenty of choice here for an
overnight or longer stay, when we can
review the many sights and sounds we have
encountered during the journey so far, the
people we have encountered and the food
and drink we have partaken. Polis is a modern
coastal town with many tourist amenities,
including water sports, sailing, fishing and
sporting.
Then, when we are ready, we can return to
Pafos, taking a right turn at Kathikas on to the
E709 to bring us to Pegeia, a vibrant small
town at the edge of the steep escarpment
and the coastal road with its many hotels and
restaurants.

12
 pressed grape residue does not stick or
Zivania, the Sociable Spirit burn. Once the cauldron is loaded and
sealed, the copper pipe is connected and
Koumandaria is not the only indigenous the wood is lit in the oven. When the liquid
drink of Cyprus. Our other national alcoholic begins to flow the fire is reduced so that
beverage is a rural spirit that has its roots the distillation takes place at a steady
in the antiquities of distillation - the famed pace.
“Zivania”.
The process then continues steadily,
In “The Good Old Days” most houses in and the alcohol grades of the Zivania
a village would have their own still, to make are oen checked. When the distillate
Zivania. A properly made Zivania is actually reaches about 16 grades, in other words
an Eau de vie, on the lines of Italian Grappa 40% volume, it is collected in a different
or French Marc. The distillation process is container. The flow of the so-called tails
quite simple. The equipment comprises: then begins, until the grades go down to
zero. The tails are re-distilled with the
* The kiln, which helps to heat up the
next load. A good Zivania contains about
system.
21 grades (49% volume).
* The cauldron, which is usually
What makes Zivania unique is the
made of copper or tin-plate.
fact that it is produced exclusively
* The pomace, where the residue of from grapes and that «it is made with
the pressed grapes to be distilled are a simple, direct distillation of pressed-
placed inside with a certain amount of grape residues with or without clean wine
water or wine. sediments, and with or without wine…»
in a simple still, with a concentration of
* The cover or lid, with which the ethyl alcohol very close to the permissible
cauldron is closed before it is levels (52% max.). Therefore, the
hermetically sealed, usually with addition of water for thinning purposes is
some dough, so that no losses are little or none.
incurred.
You can drink Zivania as cold as you
* A copper pipe, which connects the like, but it should never be consumed with
main cauldron with the cooler. ice-cubes. Its production used to be very
* The cooler, usually a barrel or a much “home-based”, but in recent times
reservoir, in which there is water legal production is confined to licenced
in order to liquefy the distillate. Inside wineries and distilleries. Mention should
the barrel there is a hosepipe that be made of the Zivania made at Kykkos
ends up in a clay jug, where the Monastery, where there is a unique “Red”
distillate is collected. variety which gains its colour from the
addition of cinnamon and other spices.
To produce Zivania, wild bush are placed Since the 18th century it was offered as
at the bottom of the cauldron so that the drink of welcome to visitors.

13
14
WINERIES

FIKARDOS WINERY
26949814, 26937439
Mesogi

KAMANTERENA
SODAP
26633000
Stroumpi

TSALAPATIS WINES
CO LTD
99624929, Polemi

K & K VASILIKON
26633237, 26632520
Kathikas

STERNA WINERY LTD

99699082
Kathikas

TAVERNAS/ RESTAURANTS

FARMA FOINIKAS
26632745, 99421706, 26332276, 26332336,99458316
Kathikas, Pafos, Agiou Georgiou 10, Drouseia, Pafos
www.kathikasvillage.com

IMOGENI KYPARISSOS
26633269, 26632954, 99618177 26633600, 99557545,
Georgiou Kleanthous 33, Kathikas, Pafos
Kathikas, Pafos

15
 YIANNIS KATHIKAS LEMONARI
26633353, 99914067 26633434, 99420033
Georgiou Kleanthous 11 Stroumpi, Pafos
Kathikas, Pafos

A. ARAOUZOS PETRADAKI
26632076, 99471540, 99186496 26814191, 99596528
Georgiou Kleanthous 17 Kato Vrysi 45, Kathikas, Pafos
Kathikas, Pafos

STATHMOS N.M. HADJIOMORFOS

26332604, 99699182 26818919, 99341155
Akamantos 3, Drouseia, Pafos Mesogi, Pafos

KOUGIOUKAS NEROMYLOS
99543619, 99626672
Giolou

16
17
 2 Vouni Panagias - Ampelitis
route

Pafos, Mesogi, Tsada, Stroumpi, Polemi, Psathi, Kannaviou, Asprogia,

Pano Panagia, Chrysorrogiatissa, Agia Moni, Statos - Agios Fotios,
Koilineia, Galataria, Pentalia, Amargeti, Eledio, Agia Varvara or
Statos - Agios Fotios, Choulou, Lemona, Kourdaka, Letymvou, Kallepeia
VISIONS OF DIONYSOS AND
WINE RIVERS…
we shall encounter many families long, long
If you have visited the Mosaics at Kato involved in wine.
Pafos or have seen illustrations of them
you will know of the early depictions of Yes, there is tradition aplenty in Cyprus
winemakers, wine drinking and drunkenness. wine and there are many villagers who still
In the “House of Dionysos” -God of wine, we make it in the old terracotta pots called Pithari
can see King Ikarios holding the reins of two (though mostly the wine is used for steeping
oxen that are drawing a cart loaded with wine. pork meat used for the traditional Loukanika
Mythology has it that Ikarios, encouraged by - sausages, and for distilling into the local
Dionysos, was the first human wine-maker. Eau-de-vie, Zivania). Today’s winemakers
The mosaic of the first two “Wine drinkers” courteously lend an eye and an ear to the
shows one with a jug of wine and the other myths and traditions of wine in history, but
distinctly the worse for wear.… their wineries house the most up to date,
frequently computerised and nearly always
All this demonstrates that drunkenness temperature controlled equipment. And the
leading to violence has long been with us. The winemakers are well trained, oen having
myth states that aer the first wine drinkers graduated in oenology from Universities in
had over-imbibed, they thought that Ikarios France, Greece, USA and elsewhere. There is
had tried to poison them, so they killed him. also a worthy government-sponsored Vines
What it doesn’t tell us is how the knowledge and Wines Institute in Lemesos which has
acquired by Ikarios as the first winemaker was done marvellous work in the development
passed on. Presumably, as the art and cra of Cyprus wine. Our winemakers are young,
of winemaking spread and grew, he must have charming, passionate about their work,
handed on the know-how before departing this friendly and hospitable.
life!
Nevertheless, for the romantic, and for
Indeed, in Cyprus as elsewhere, many a visitor, here legend meets reality…
winemaking is an ancient activity, handed And there is more than vines and wine. Revel
down from father to son for generation aer in the naturalness of the countryside with its
generation. And, as we start to traverse the diverse range of trees… oak, olives, walnuts,
wine route “Vouni Panagias - Ampelitis”, cypresses, pines and poplars and many more.
18
 GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS
North-Eastwards from Pafos it is hilly and we Grape Varieties: Most of the villages of
can see the south-western ridges and peaks this way belong in the region of production
of the Troodos range. Open vistas of vineyards “Controlled Denomination of Origin” (WCNO)
and other cultivation change as we wind our “Vouni Panagias - Ampelitis”. There are no less
way upwards (as always on a good road), than 27 different grape varieties to be found,
where groups of oak trees (Quercus infectoria) with substantial plantings of Carignan Noir and
may be seen. In the north-eastern corner of Cabernet Sauvignon. Among others present
this itinerary occur handsome and oen dense are Muscat of Alexandria and Palomino.
pine woods. Sometimes the region is almost
wild, so no wonder, it is home to plentiful wild White Grapes: Xynisteri, Palomino, Malvasia
life - plants, trees, animals and birds. It also L., Malvasia G., Ugni Blanc, Plant X., Sauvignon
offers us the chance to visit seven wineries. Blanc, Riesling, Semillon, Chardonnay, Sultana
Malaga, Muscat of Alexandria
Climate: The region reaches an altitude of
a 1,141 metres at its highest, which naturally Red Grapes: Mavro, Ohalmo, Maratheiko,
brings higher rainfall than lower areas. Lefkada, Carignan Noir, Mataro, Oellade,
The climate is mostly mild. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Alicante
B., Black Muscat, Grenache, Shiraz, Merlot
Terrain: Flanking the narrow valley alongside
the river running through the area, the region’s
grounds possess a mostly clay to gypsum -
clay structural composition.

In this wine region, legend

meets reality, as you travel ages old
terrain, where wine has been made
for thousands of years, to encounter
the dedicated young oenologists
making today’s stylish Cyprus wines
in 21st century wineries.

19
20
 THE ROUTE
From Pafos we take the B7, sign-posted
to Polis, passing through the newly built
suburban areas of the town, with their many
shops, showrooms and businesses offering all
kinds of furniture, furnishings, merchandise,
foods and services. Turn for Tsada, pass by
and drive a further 5 km, and then take a right A Sip from an Old (or a New)
turn to Polemi.
Oak Barrel
This is a moderate sized village of some
800 inhabitants. It’s not really necessary to One of the pleasures of getting to know
say there are vineyards all around! There are a winemaker is that he or she is passionately
old rural dwellings amongst the new, too. proud of what is gurgling, slowly fermenting,
A former religious establishment, called the or maturing in the stainless steel containers
or wooden barrels in the winery. You will be
“Metochi of Kykkos”, is a building worth having
offered a taste, according to season. Soon
a look at. Not long ago renovated and now
aer harvest you can taste what is virtually
a cultural centre for the village community, grape juice, then partially fermented juice,
it’s open every day and welcomes visitors. then fermented juice and finally wine during
It boasts a charming garden. To find it you turn various stages of maturation.
le before the school on the road leaving the
village, and then follow the signs on your right. At its early stages before fermentation
commences the juice or must is extremely
The village centre has cafés and shops.
sweet. As the sugars are consumed by the
Leaving Polemi the E703 takes a north- yeasts, the sweetness goes, to be converted
eastern direction, and aer two kilometres, into alcohol. At this time and in early
fermentation the juice can have a decided
we reach Psathi. The village, surrounded by
spritz.
greenery, has a most favourable elevation, and
overlooks the river Polis Valley. To let the fluid run across your tongue
Naturally, there are vineyards here, too! to reach all of its tasting areas is a wonderful
part of getting to know wine. Here you can
Just one kilometre further, in similar differentiate between grape varieties.
surroundings as Psathi, we come to Agios
Dimitrianos, a smaller, but equally green Moving from the winery into the cellar,
it is even more interesting to chart the
village. Between the two settlements the
progress of a wine over weeks, months and
“Arnies” nature trail commences. Three
especially in the case of red wines, years. It is
kilometres beyond, in the depth of the valley at these times that the real wine experts can
of the river of Ezousa, we come across gauge how good the wine is going to be (and,
Kannaviou village, with a panoramic view consequently, how much it will be worth).
on the le. At the entrance to Kannaviou, at In the cellar, too, you will learn to differentiate
the river, there is a very old oak tree, and, between wines maturing in different types of
opposite, the “EZOYSA” winery. It is a modern barrels, such as French, American and even
wine production facility built in 2003, which Romanian oak. It is here that another layer of
makes a range of wines from local grape complexity can be given to a fine wine.
producers.

21
 The owner and winemaker Michael established settlements, inheritors of the
Constantinides welcomes visitors and he old and traditional ways of the countryside.
has a comfortable tasting room in which to Open spaces give way to lovely rural dwellings
sample the wines. Michael makes around and green gardens. At Fyti the Church tops
50,000 bottles of wine a year, in five main the village’s little streets, all winding around
styles, using both indigenous and international the slopes. This is a super place for a stroll,
grape varieties. Recommended are: “Agios providing you with a charming view of Kritou
Chrysostomos”, a dry, fresh and fruity young Marottou, Kannaviou and Agios Dimitrianos.
white wine made from the Xynisteri grape; Varied examples of architecture and building
the crisp, dry, Maratheiko rosé, “Eros” and materials may be seen. Mostly, local stone
the fragrant and rich berry-like Cabernet is used in construction, and several types of
Sauvignon “Aenos”. single and double arches may be seen, as
well as old roof tiling and mud-brick. Aer
The winery isn’t the only appealing your walk, you can relax at the Fyti tavern,
thing about Kannaviou. It is a relatively big where you will find local people chatting over
settlement for the region, with 250 residents. coffee, as well as Cypriots and foreigners
Just beyond the winery, there is a place to who come for the excellent cooking of Maria
walk and relax by the river, whilst a further and her helpers. The tavern was once the
stroll up the street reveals the village’s unique village school (alas now closed due to lack of
taverna. The nature study path, “Palloures”, pupils) and is 170 years old. A few metres up
starts at Kannaviou. It offers the nature-lover, the street there is an interesting museum of
student or expert a lot of plant life to see, Popular and Textile Art -textiles having been
note and enjoy… wild and cultivated plants an important activity of Fyti.
and trees abound: vines, almonds, oranges,
walnuts, olives, eucalyptuses and oaks, to Retracing our steps, we
name but a few. take a le turn out of
Kannaviou and drive
Leaving the village in a northerly direction, six km to Asprogia, a
and in sight of Kannaviou Reservoir, we make small vinicultural village
a small detour of four kilometres to our le close to the edge of the
to the pretty villages of Kritou Marottou and dense forest of Pafos.
Fyti. As you might expect, these are long From here, the street

22
leads us to the most important destination Winemaking director Andreas Kyriakides uses
of this route, Pano Panagia. The distance is both local and international grape varieties
short, but here we climb quite steeply, but as from neighbouring vineyards and produces
always the road is a smooth one. Just outside a range of both high-volume and limited
the village we find our next “Wine Stop”, at edition wines. From the staple range, try either
850 metres altitude, the “VOUNI PANAGIA the dry or medium-dry “Alina”, made from
WINERY”. Xynisteri. The popular red “Plakota”, light and
quite gentle, is an excellent summer wine,
This modern wine production plant, which when it may be served slightly chilled. Andreas
has an active “Visitors Welcome” policy, is has also made interesting wines with the red
one of the largest regional wineries of Cyprus, Maratheiko and other varieties.
with an annual production of more than half a
million bottles. The panoramic view from its Pano Panagia is less than a kilometre
balconies is absolutely stunning, especially away from the winery. It is a large, picturesque
on clear days, covering a great portion of village, with its traditionally stone built houses
the Pafos district, north-westwards from literally clinging to the steep slopes... It is
Chrysochou Bay to the Akamas and the Laona the centre of the denominated wine region
heights, in a broad sweep south-east to the Vouni Panagias - Ampelitis and provides
coast at Pafos Airport. At this point, too, ample choice for all kinds of agro-tourism.
rise the hills of “Vouni”, with the Monastery The vineyards of the region grow no less than
of Panagia Chrysorrogiatissa in sight. Here twenty five varieties of grapes.
you will see many vineyards located at least
a thousand metres above sea level -which is Two kilometres from Pano Panagia, to our
very good for the grapes, as well as the wine. right, we come to the Monastery of Panagia
Chrysorrogiatissa, which dates from 1152.
Established in 1987 in temporary Day-time visitors are welcome. Aer a fire
premises as a family business, the “VOUNI in 1967 the monastery was fully restored.
PANAYIA” winery is now housed in a modern, Fortunately the fire missed part of the church
custom-built plant which was designed to treat that is dated from 1770.
visitors too. The facilities include tasting and
buying areas and a restaurant. Conducted Wine has been made here for centuries,
tours demonstrate the capabilities of the wine but its modern history started in the early
- making equipment and take in the large and 1980s when it was one of the first regional
attractive cellars, where oak barrels and many wineries to be given government approval
thousands of bottles store the maturing wines. for construction. German equipment and
technology were used and this influence
The winery people also inform and is evident in the style of the wines, which
entertain visitors with multi-media are made from grapes grown nearby at a
presentations in English and considerable altitude. The winery is located
Greek, graphically describing in the lower areas of the monastery by the
vine-growing and wine-making gardens and vineyards and you may see the
processes. When the tour and whole sequence of manufacture, from grape
presentations conclude, visitors crushing to bottling and storage. If you wish
may nibble local to visit, please make an appointment. There
cheeses as is also a shop at which the wines can be
they sample purchased. From the range, try the Xynisteri
the range of “Agios Andronicos” (which, in a good year,
wines and is one of Cyprus’s best whites) and the red
the local Eau blend, “Agios Elias”, made from local Mavro,
de vie, Zivania. Opthalmo and Maratheiko grapes.

23
24
 Wine sold at their facilities is an important Pentalia and the coast at Acheleia; the other,
source of income for a number of wineries. westwards to Choulou and lots of pretty
“VOUNI PANAGIA” is one, and another is a villages, joining the main road at Tsada.
short distance away at Statos-Agios Fotios
- where a warm welcome awaits at “KOLIOS From here, taking the southwards road to
WINERY”. Here, too, there are spectacular Pentalia, we will soon come to a 180 degrees
views, including the entire Ezousa Valley. bend on our le. The road leading to the
On the ridges around the cliff-perched winery villages of Koilinia and Galataria starts here.
are the Kolios family’s vineyards, at an altitude The road turns a bit and it’s steep in parts,
of about thousand metres. Provided a table but the mountainous scenery and vinous
reservation is made, very good Cyprus food greenery please the eye. So many vines,
can be had in the winery’s little restaurant at virtually a homage to Dionysos! Eastwards,
lunchtimes. It is open daily except Saturdays. the fertile River Xeros Valley beckons in
During construction, a natural spring was the distance. Our way winds through dense
discovered, and now this is the source of vineyards, countless almond trees and many
some very pretty fountains. Winery tours are cypress trees, concluding at the pretty village
given in English and Greek, followed by wine of Koilinia. At its centre, you will find the
and cheese tastings. Like all the wineries you “SHOUFAS” winery.
visit you will find enthusiasm and passion for This is a small, family-run producer,
making good wine… and making it better every making its wines in an extension of traditional
year -“KOLIOS” is no exception. Although buildings. Though new and equipped with
many winemakers use the same grape an up-to-date plant, it has a strong family
varieties, each has his own style. wine tradition. Grandfather Costas Filippou
Here, try the fresh and fruity dry or is a viticulturist who has many decades of
medium dry white “Persephoni”, the excellent experience. Try Shoufas wines made from
rosé “Cornetto” (nothing to do with ice- traditional grapes of the region: the dry red
cream!) and the well-blended red “Agios “Maratheiko” and the white dry “Xynisteri”.
Fotios”. If you have decided you want to Visitors are welcome daily, but it’s best to call
investigate wines made from the high-acid and
high tannin red Cyprus grape Maratheiko,
Kolios makes an estimable one.
How should we try the wine?
You have a choice of where to go next…
from Choulou and beyond, or to Statos-Agios Wine is not a drink to gulp or take
Fotios itself, which is at the highest point large draughts of. It is a beverage of
of the Pafos district. There is much recent medium level alcohol, to sniff, smell,
building here, dating from the 1970s, to
savour and enjoy, especially with food.
provide new accommodation for the villagers
Every wine has its own character,
of Statos and Agios Fotios, which had suffered
problems with land subsidence. The new texture, aroma and flavours, even ones
village is open, well planned and with plenty of that are made from the same grapes as
space for gardens. At the Community Centre others. So our approach to wine is not to
there is a coffee-shop and a taverna. hurry. Let it tell us about itself -from its
looks, its smell and its taste.
From Statos-Agios Fotios there are two
routes we can take. One goes southwards to

25
 first, especially if you want to take a group.
A bonus here is the view around.
Always look at the Label
Continuing downhill, the road will take
A wine label must give you basic
us to the village of Galataria. The distance
information: the name of the wine, between the two villages is tiny, so we soon
the producer, the region and country come upon this settlement. So close are the
of origin, the quantity of wine in the two villages that the dwellings, the vineyards
bottle and the level of Alcohol by and little tracks and roadways practically
Volume. This is the obligatory front intermingle! At dawn and especially at sunset,
label. Very oen the producer will add such magic places seem to make time stop…
further information on a “back label”, One finds oneself in spirit back to the time of
which can be very useful. This may the gods, especially Dionysos!
tell you more about the grapes, where If we retrace our steps to the point where
they were grown, the wine making we took the 180 degrees turn we will find on
processes (such as barrel aging), the our le the road which leads to Pentalia. We
winemaker and which foods match come to this village aer four km. This village
the wine. You can learn a lot about is built on a charming but steep mountainside
wine this way (although very oen the and it contains a lot of traditional, stone-built
producer may exaggerate just a little houses. Many face towards the scenic view of
about his wine!). the Xeros Valley, which unfolds below.

Soon aer we exit this settlement we

Having looked at the bottle, now
meet again the road leading from Statos-
let’s open it…
Agios Fotios, and from which we detoured to
visit Koilinia. Four km later, it will bring us to
Amargeti village. It is truly a beautiful place,

26
rising on the right side of the road amidst an about ten km. Once we reach that area, at the
emerald valley. Some of its traditional stone entrance of the Ezousa Valley, nature seems
houses are refurbished. Here you will find like a heavenly garden: the fertile soil is awash
a number of tavernas, coffee shops, and a with groves featuring tall cypress trees at
combination hostel-taverna in the main street. their perimetre, and with seasonal cultivations
You will also find the “KALAMOS WINERY” very stitching the plateau.
close to the church, at the village’s centre.
If, from Statos-Agios Fotios, you elected
At this producer you can taste wines from to head west towards Choulou, then you
local as well as imported varieties, cultivated will traverse five kilometres of breathtaking
in the family vine yards, in combination with natural beauty, possibly unique in all of the
grapes from selected vine growers. Taste the island. The road descends through vine yards,
red “Ayia Sotira” in dry and medium-dry, made grazing fields and steep slopes marked by
from Mataro grapes, and the dry or semi-dry abandoned ancient cultivations, which have
“Livades”, produced from Xynisteri. One is a romantic charm all their own. The age-old,
encouraged to also try the “Zivania” of the painstakingly erected dry-stone walls, hold the
owner, Mr. Nikos Ignatiou, which matures in slopes in check and the land by them hosts
oak barrels. Tasting, which is complemented wild, short shrubs. The sparse trees aid in the
by a platter of cheeses and dry fruit, carries a impression of gigantic scaffolding reaching
fee for organised groups of visitors. Tours are towards infinity, towards time and space.
conducted in Greek and English. When, eventually, the road closes in on the
river bank, the sight is one of utter seduction,
Continuing on our way downwards, we
with aquatic greenery going wild, leading a
will soon come upon Eledio, a small but
frenzied dance, a hymn to Dionysos. Laurel
picturesque settlement. It is almost joined
is the leading lady, followed by reeds, ivy and
with its southern neighbour, Axilou village,
plane trees, and then turpentine and pine
and from here the distance to Agia Varvara,
trees from the surrounding hillsides join in the
quite close to the motorway and the sea, is
27
 chorus… until, finally, the first stony houses of
a settlement appear at the end of the straight.

And so we arrive at Choulou. Here is

another charming village that once upon
a time was big, busy and flourishing. An
indication of this is the number of two storey
houses, a sure sign of prosperity.

In many respects Choulou is typical

of European villages. The church holds a
prominent position at the heart of village
life, whilst the Coffee Shops are close by.
The elders of the village sit and discuss the
events of the day, oen including the contents
of the newspaper of their political view, some
of them twiddling their “Worry Beads”, others
playing “Tavli” (Backgammon). Visitors are of
great interest to them and they will soon invite
you to a small cup of Cypriot coffee (“Sketos”
-no sugar’; “Metrios” -medium sweet and
“Glicos” -sweet) with a glass of cool mountain
water, whilst they tell you of local life, legend
and history. There’s a timeless feeling to all
this, Mediaeval in some respects. Walk round
Choulou’s little streets and feel the drama of
Arodafnousa, the girl who stole the heart of
Rigas (King), causing the anger of the Rigaina
(Queen), who lived in a tower (no longer
existing). These and other stories date from
the time of the Franks, when the area was in
the fief of a knight named Choulio, hence the
name of the village.

A peculiar coincidence, or connection

maybe, is the name of the next village,
Lemona -in that there is a city of the same
name in Vasco, Spain.

To go to Lemona we turn le just outside

Choulou and take a small detour. It is a tiny
settlement, whose residents have close links
with those of Choulou. These links are oen
through family, land-ownership and working
relationships. Like so many others, some
village houses are being restored whilst
others are neglected (very oen the owning
families emigrated to places like Australia
and South Africa). Now the village is, so
to say, ‘back on the map’, because nearby

28
is “TSANGARIDES WINERY”, not far from When we return to our route, we arrive
the church and sited in a pleasant position back at Tsada village, which we passed in the
adjacent to vineyards, oaks and olive trees and morning. It is modern and well developed,
the River Ezousa. whilst retaining enough of its traditional
Cypriot character. Shops, restaurants, food
The Tsangarides family has been tilling the stores and plenty going on mark this very
soil and making wine here for generations, and up-to-date place.
the representative of the present generation,
Angelos Tsangarides, is winning awards for Whichever route chosen for this tour,
his wines. The winery is modern and efficient, the total distance is not more than 100
housed in a new building which, nevertheless, kilometres, so it is within the compass of most
has traditional character. In particular, try drivers! All along there are countless places
two fine reds, one made from Mataro and the to stop, look and explore. And, of course,
other from Cabernet Sauvignon. Visitors are you have been able to sample and buy a
welcome, but should call first. remarkable range of our wines. Proof, if any is
needed, that dear old Dionysos is still with us
Now, back on track we re-join the in spirit…
southward road and head for Letymvou,
about four kilometres. We pass over the River
Ezousa and, on the right, see the very small
and almost abandoned village of Kourdaka.
There are vines aplenty hereabouts. Some Looking
pretty old stone-work may be seen in the
buildings of this settlement. Choose an appropriate glass for
Two kilometres from the river (we are the wine you are tasting. Good glasses
now on its west bank) we come to Letymvou. should be of a size to let the wine tell
Nearby are the sites of two late Byzantine you about itself, i.e. fairly large. Pour
churches. At the village’s heart are walnut some wine -not more than a third of a
trees and stone fountains, some nice gardens glass. Now hold the glass up to a clear
and leafy places to find shade. Every year, in light or white surface and look. Has it a
July, the “Resi” festival is held here. Resi is a dark colour or light? Is it clear (good) or
truly rural traditional dish, most oen found
cloudy (not good)? When you swirl the
these days at wedding parties.
wine around the glass does it run thinly
In this area there are almonds and down inside or does it leave a viscous
deciduous trees, but the view, especially trail?
as we leave westwards from Letymvou, is
of vine-clad valley slopes. Aer about two Darkly coloured wines are usually
kilometres we turn le and take another short richer in aromas and flavours. You will
detour to Kallepeia village. This is quite a note that the yellow or light gold or
large and attractive place with a go-ahead clear green-tinged yellow of most young
administration, developing fast with both white wine evolves to deeper yellow to
renovated and new houses and apartments in intense gold as the wine ages. In red
evidence. The area around the Church is good wines, the vibrant purple of extreme
for strolling and there is a traditional taverna.
youth deepens, to quite bright red, and
Letymvou is becoming a popular place in
then deep and finally in age taking on
which to live for people of several nationalities.
In these modern times it is within a short brownish edges and tones.
commuting car drive to Pafos.

29
30
WINERIES

EZOUSA WINERY
70008844, 99415909
Kannaviou

VOUNI PANAYIA
WINERY LTD
26722770, 26722878,
99453138, Panagia

KOLIOS WINERY LTD

26724090
Statos - Agios Fotios

CHRYSORROGIATISSA
WINERY
26722457, 99626642
Panagia

TSANGARIDES
WINERY
26722777
Lemona

SHOUFAS
WINERY LTD
99447424, 99435436,
22442744, Koilineia

KALAMOS WINERY
26723224, 99519268,
99450568, Amargeti

31
 TAVERNAS / RESTAURANTS

ΜITAS ZOODOCHOS PIGI GIA PANTA

99683982, 96657777 26723212, 99771592
Choulou, Pafos Chrysοrrogiatissis 31, Amargeti, Pafos

PHITI VILLAGE APOLLON

26732540, 99138573 26723030, 99632631
Fyti, Pafos Amargeti, Pafos

TO KONATZI TIS KALLEPEIAS

26642368, 99677744
Arch. Kyprianou, Kallepeia, Pafos

32
33
 3 Diarizos Valley
route

Pafos, Acheleia, Kouklia, Nikokleia, Choletria, Stavrokonnou,

Kelokedara, Salamiou, Mesana, Arminou, Filousa, Praitori,
Agios Nicolaos, Kedares, Agios Georgios, Mamonia, Fasoula.

DRIVING ALONG THE PATH

OF THE RIVER… AND OF HISTORY
This itinerary takes us eastwards from the With every little look into of the
city of Pafos and among many other things surroundings, discoveries and monuments
covers the three fertile valleys of the rivers attest to its worship. Venus passes on her
Ezousa, Xeros and Diarizos. Aer a coastal influence to the Virgin Mary, mother of today’s
run at sea level, we shall climb the south- faithful.
western foothills of the Troodos mountain
range, observing the flowing course of the
River Diarizos, crossing it several times. We
are going to traverse an elongated circuit,
with fourteen mountain villages en route, with,
during the course of our trip, visits to two
small, but interesting regional wineries.

Something more; we shall discover the

places where a Goddess, the pre-Christian
Venus of Pafos, was worshipped and is, so
it is said, devoutly worshipped until now by
some. There are unusual and interesting rock
formations to wonder at, too, in the Mamonia
area.

Life has gone on here for millennia in

these fertile valleys. Hints are everywhere of
its continuity and its customs, but no accurate
historical documentation exists. Yet each
succeeding kilometre reveals pictures, scents
and sounds of the circle of fertility.

34
 GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS
The Diarizos Valley lies south-west of the Vineyards: This region does not have
Troodos hills and takes its name from the a “Controlled Denomination of Origin”.
river that runs through it. In a relatively small Nevertheless, we shall encounter some
area, this valley has a wide variety of fauna interesting wines and come across 18 grape
and flora, with a number of important and varieties.
protected species.
Red varieties: Mavro, Ohalmo,
Climate: The region is characterised by a Maratheiko, Lefkada, Carignan, Mataro,
relatively gentle climate: moderately cold in Oellade, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc,
the winter and temperate in the summer. Alicante B., Grenache, Shiraz, Merlot

Terrain: Following the ancient creation White varieties: Xynisteri, Palomino,

of Cyprus as a result of volcanic activity, Chardonnay, Sultanα, Malaga
the Troodos Mountains were thrust above
the rest of the terrain, creating the various
springs and rivers that flow down or within
it. In the region we also find the “Mamonia
Area” a complicated tectonic concentration
of volcanic and sedimentary rocks.

Vines, wine -and something more:

we shall discover the places where a
Goddess was worshipped, and still is...

35
 …and from the residue off from the grapes press (the stalks, pips and pulm), Zivania is made!

36
 THE ROUTE
Our starting point is the Pafos motorway groups of conifers and eucalyptus trees.
round-about. From there we head towards It is a small village, typical of the settlements
Lemesos for about six km, until we reach the in the region.
exit to Acheleia (B6). On the “old” Pafos -
Leaving from the north point of the village,
Lemesos road you can see the experimental
we drive about four km to the settlement of
plantations run by the Institute of Agricultural
Stavrokonnou. This is also a small village but,
Research. Much interesting work is done here
in contrast to the preceding one, it largely
and forests, plantations and even ordinary
maintains its traditional architecture. Its
gardeners benefit from it.
characteristic “Makrynarka” houses have
Continuing eastwards, towards Lemesos, suffered limited modern “intrusion”
for about eight more km, we pass under the
motorway and over the River Xeros, which
runs down from the Asprogremnos Reservoir
to the sea. On our le, we see the side road
to Nikokleia, which we take, before the road Swirling and Sniffing
reaches the bridge. This road, to Nikokleia, lies
on the west bank of the River Diarizos and rises Now the wine is in the glass and
up on the side of the valley away from the river
fully inspected visually. Holding the
bed. Within a short distance (4 km) we come
glass by its stem or base, rotate it
upon the village, overlooking the wide river
valley. On the opposite, eastern side of the so that the wine swirls around it. This
valley, lies the ancient settlement of Palaipafos, helps to “open” the wine, and to release
today’s “Kouklia”. In ancient times it was the its aromas. A good glass should be
centre of worship of the Cyprus Aphrodite. narrower at the top than in the middle,
allowing the aromas to concentrate
When we reach this first focal point of our
ready for you to smell.
journey, we turn le when we reach the village,
taking the road which firstly leads to Choletria, Li the glass slowly to your nose.
at a distance of about six km. On each side, the Breathe in and savour the sensation.
land is covered with seasonal plants, olive and The alcohol will wa up, as will the notes
lemon groves and fields of other citrus trees.
of the fruit, acidity and, with a barrel
Climbing up towards Choletria, grazing fermented or aged wine, the oak. In all
land appears on the landscape, their colours this there will be traces of the whole
changing with the seasons, vineyards, almond story of the grape from which the wine
groves and indigenous Cyprus trees -like was made -the soil, the climate, the care
pines, cypress, and “Tremithi” (a small wild tree and the making.
producing tiny, edible berries). There are newly
- introduced species here, too, like eucalyptus. Repeat this several times. Each time
the wine will tell you more and gradually
The village of Choletria is located on one
your perceptions will sharpen and a
of the plateaus on the eastern side of the
River Xeros, and it is literally awash with green. whole encyclopaedia of wine will be there
Most houses are modern and are surrounded for you.
by gardens, groves of almonds and citrus, by

37
 - it’s as if time froze somewhere in the 1970s
or 1980s. The landscape that surrounds the
village maintains the same characteristics of
plants, shrubs and trees, but now the difference
in altitude begins to make itself felt and the
number of vine yards increases.

Almost five km further on we come across

the village of Kelokedara, at an altitude of
around 700 m. It is a small settlement with
a fountain at its entrance and mostly with
traditional buildings. Here, too, we can find
typical samples of “Makrynarka” houses, visible
even from the level of the road we are on.
These characteristic houses got their name
from their elongated shape. This came about as
a result of the custom of the region’s families
to add a new room either to the le or to the
right of the old house to accommodate each
child as they married.

For those with 4 x 4 vehicles, aer

Kelokedara, we can turn to the le for about
three kilometres on an un made-up track and
visit the renovated monastery of Panagia tou
Sinti, at the bottom of the Xeros Valley and on
its opposite bank.

Continuing in a northerly direction, the

road climbs up steep and imposing hillsides. It
twists and turns excitingly by turn on mountain
ridges and varying inclines, frequently revealing
brilliant views of the river valley, below and
to the le. On each side there is a vigorous
panorama of vineyards, olive groves, farms and
grazing land with ground level growth as well as
copses of cypresses, pines and eucalyptus.

Before arriving at Salamiou, our next port

-of-call, half way into the six km that separate
it from Kelokedara, we are presented with a
wonderful double view: to the le (west) lies
the Xeros Valley, while to the right the Diarizos
Valley unfolds, both viewed from a height of
almost 700 m.

In Salamiou village the settlement and the

farms command a vantage point over the River

38
Diarizos to the east. Just outside the village,
to the le, there is a picnic area with shaded
benches and tables, this time overlooking the
Xeros Valley. A little further on, at the cross
Sip!
roads before the village and to the le, another
Now at last has come the moment
side road can be found leading to the Panagia
to taste!
tou Sinti monastery. On the right, a small
unpaved road leads to the Lagria hill, and the Li the glass and take a good sip.
winery by the same name. To start with, let the wine run over and
This hill, rising up 40 to 50 metres higher around your tongue. The taste buds in
than the village, covers an area of almost a each part examine four basic flavours:
square kilometre and is covered with many sweet, sour, salty and bitter. The sweet
vineyards. Bushes, low vegetation and sparse flavour taste buds are located at the
trees grow up at its inaccessible or rocky parts. front of the tongue, so the sweetness is
The vines are planted at different levels, and at the first sensation. The taste buds for
varying inclines, in an advantageous location sour are at the side of the tongue, and
blessed with long hours of daily sunshine.
those for bitter are at the back part,
Although dry, and rooted on essentially rocky
the nearest to the swallowing process.
terrain, the vineyards of Lagria -as well as
those of the wider area here- traditionally There is little for the salty taste buds
produce wines of very good quality. to do. The important thing is to roll the
wine around continuously and if you
The “LAGRIA” Winery is owned by the breathe quite deeply through your nose
President of the community of Salamiou, Mr. at the same time, the appreciation will
Kostakis Avgousti, whose family have grown
be increased. Now, swallow or expel the
vines and made wine for many generations. The
wine into the receptacle provided.
winery has quite a small production, utilising
grapes from its own vineyards and those of There are three distinctive
growers near the village. It bottles four wines: sensations. Firstly “Attack”: the impact/
one white from local Xynisteri (fresh and fruity
taste noticed in the first few seconds
and best drunk well chilled when it is young),
aer sipping. Secondly: “Evolution”:
a dry red blend of local and imported grape
varieties, a Cabernet Sauvignon varietal and a the continuing changing sensations.
rosé, which is a blend of the local “Mavro” and Thirdly: “Finish”: the aer-taste le by
“Xynisteri” varieties. It is best to pre-arrange the wine aer swallowing or expelling
your visit if your group will be large. The tour, (this is oen bitter). You will now have
which is given in English and Greek, ends up in an overall impression, of whether you
the winery’s tasting rooms, where the wines like it or not.
may be tasted and purchased.

You’re looking at a long history in Salamiou.

There have been people living on this site for
four or five thousand years. Today’s village
demonstrates the popular architecture and
construction of the last several centuries. In
one traditional two-storied building just along

39
 from the church you’ll find the local taverna, soon conclude the five kilometres separating
complete with a nice balcony. “Kafeneia” (local Arminou from Filousa. The route abounds
coffee shops) and other shops are also at hand. in “mountain greenery” indeed, and the
ubiquitous vine as well.
By Salamiou’s fountain, stop awhile
and admire the imperious Cypress tree, an In a short while we come upon the pretty
estimated 750 years of age and dedicated hamlet of Praitori. We can take a short side-trip
to the Virgin Mary. On the higher reaches of to another great little place if we wish, Agios
the village, by the sadly closed school, your Nikolaos (see below).
eye gazes upon the dramatic sight of an 800
metre drop to the depth of the Diarizos Valley. It is at Praitori that we can visit our second
The ancients called the river the “one hundred winery of this trip. “NELION WINERY” belongs
mouth flows”, indicating its sources from a to Neofytos and Helen Ioannou, who have built
hundred gullies. a small, compact winemaking plant in a lovely
location, near the village. Mr. and Mrs. Ioannou
Very near, in a region covered with fertile are dedicated to their art and produce a range
plots, vineyards and gardens, is the monastery of interesting wines, among them a notable
of Panagia Salamiotissa, where the church is Rosé. They are unique in growing and making
about 500 years old. wine with one of the great grape varieties
of Bordeaux, the red Cinsault. Visits are by
Northwards, aer a couple of kilometres arrangement and presentations for groups are
the road leads to Mesana, a small and pretty given in English or Greek. Wine and other items
village that it is close by the edge of the can be purchased at their shop and light meals
Troodos forest, which will decorate part of our are also available.
way for some time. Three kilometres onwards
we come to Arminou on the western slopes of Aer seeing the winery and trying its
the Diarizos Valley, which is sparsely populated. products, Agios Nikolaos village is worth a little
Amid the pines are almond and olive trees. detour, with its minaret’s green cone visible
Here the road bends and descends down the above its rooops.
river valley crossing the River Diarizos. Aer
a while the road starts heading uphill through At a number of points here, the road
lovely scenery and gorgeous air and we crosses a river by bridges of recent

40
construction. There are others, from the
Venetian period that are worth visiting. Six km
north, through the forest, is the Tzelephiou
Bridge, over the River Diarizos. In the forest
you can also find the bridge of Roudkias, over Tasting many wines
the River Xeros (six km west of Tzelephou
Bridge) and Elias (Olive) Bridge, over a tributary If you intend to try a lot of wines,
of the River Diarizos. please follow the advice already given:
From Agios Nikolaos village drive back to Don’t swallow! Otherwise you may not
Praitori, and aer three kilometres southwards be able to drive.
we arrive on the eastern side of the valley at the
picturesque village of Kedares. More greenery Later, by all means, relax with a
here with plenty of vineyards around it... glass or two of the wines you liked
best, preferably with matching food.
The road undulates considerably as its Let the wine run down the route to
winds its way down to the river for the next your stomach -and savour the taste
five kilometres. It crosses the River Diarizos
sensation it leaves at your palate, what
and almost immediately its tributary the River
is known as “aertaste”.
Xeragaka. We arrive at the almost abandoned
settlement of Kidasi village. Then comes a
spectacularly beautiful drive along the bottom
of the valley with the river close by on the le
hand side. On the right the view is sometimes
green, at others of steep cliff. Nearby are the
“Rocks of Hasamboulia”, an interesting natural The distance from Kedares to Agios
oddity. These two huge blocks of stone lean Georgios is approximately 14 kilometres.
against each other, leaving enough room This settlement, at the river-side, has singularly
between for us to pass. Their name derives fertile land around it. It is a pleasant place
from that of three fleeing robbers of the to stop awhile. Mamonia village, about three
19th century who evaded their pursuers by and a half kilometres further on, is the next
sheltering here. habitation. The area’s name describes the
structure of its rock outcrops, which are
characterised by both volcanic (lava) and
sedimentary (crystallised) limestone.

From Mamonia it is just a kilometre or so to

the next settlement, Fasoula, attractively placed
astride the River Diarizos, which runs through
the centre of the village.

The next spot, five kilometres

south, is Nikokleia village. Before
we reach the village, on the right
hand side of the road, is a well
restored building of traditional
architecture that is now a hostel.

41
42
Its original function was as a Caravanserai
(resting place for travellers and their animals)
and later as a coffee shop, before being
unoccupied for thirty years. It is a suitable
base for the exploration of archaeological sites
of the nearby villages, Kouklia, the Pantheon
of Venus, Asprogremmos Reservoir and the
abandoned Souskiou village, where cross -
shaped statuettes from the Bronze Age were
discovered. Near here there is an important
Neolithic cemetery, where the archaeological
excavations revealed intact burial sites and
gems from ancient tombs which have enriched
the collection of the Museum of Cyprus.

Our final stop on this little journey before

our return to Pafos is at our starting-point,
Nikokleia village. It is a beautiful settlement,
and calls to mind the long history of the area
and the glory of its ancient King of Pafos,
Nikoklis, from whoom it took its name. Aer
our wine tastings, we can relax here and enjoy
some coffee to wash away the taste of wine.
And then, with the memories of the hills, the
forests and the lovely scenery of our drive
down by the River Diarizos fresh in our minds,
we can return to our base. A lovely “Wine
Route” fruitfully accomplished.

43
44
WINERIES

LAGRIA WINERY 35
99346990, 99425273
Salamiou

NELION WINERY LTD 80

25442445, 99666414
Praitori

TAVERNAS / RESTAURANTS

STOU VIOLARI VASILIAS NIKOKLIS

26442929, 99413898, 99180095 26432211, 99309279
Agia Varvara 1, Salamiou, Pafos Nikokleia, Pafos

45
 4 Krasochoria Lemesou (Wine Villages of Lemesos)
route

Lemesos, Kolossi, Erimi, Kantou, Souni-Zanakia, Pano Kivides, Agios

Amvrosios, Lofou, Vouni, Koilani, Pera Pedi, Mandria, Kato Platres,
Omodos, Vasa, Malia, Arsos, Pachna, Anogyra, Avdimou

THE FOOTHILLS OF TROODOS

ARE A LOVELY SIGHT!
Spread out over a wonderful sloping Village life has always included a welcome
panoply on the southern slopes of the Troodos for the traveller -even in the poorest times
mountain range, majestically overlooking a householder would give his bed and bread
thousands of vineyards, the route of the to the traveller. There is no need for such
wine Villages of Lemesos offers the traveller gestures today, but everywhere, in the coffee
everything. Scenery, forests, vegetation, farm shops, the tavernas, restaurants, hostels
lands, orchards, olive and almond groves, and hotels, the Cyprus welcome is warm and
pretty villages, local produce and, at a break friendly. Nowhere is there a warmer welcome
in the journey, rest, relaxation, and delicious than in our wineries. This route has no less
wines to tempt the palate. than 11 to visit.

Along this Wine Route there are 20

villages. It is the fourth region of “Wines of
Controlled Denomination” in Cyprus. Large
quantities of indigenous grapes are grown
here.

This is a Route to savour, so pleasant that

the words of the Greek poet Constantinos
Kavafis come to mind: “You should want the
road to be a long one”. Here both to travel
the route and to arrive are pleasures. The
places where one can stop and revel in the
surroundings are many. Nature and man’s
cultivation of it are all about. For the lover of
history, there is plenty to engage the attention
too.

46
 GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS
Thrust up by a huge volcanic eruption 90 Terrain: hilly, and undulating, oen with
million years ago, the island of Cyprus is stepped cultivation. The soil and general
dominated by its Troodos range, with its “terroir” are very suitable for vines.
highest point Mount Olympos (1952 m
altitude). Below, sloping down to the southern Vineyards: The twenty villages that lie along
coast, the terrain provides excellent conditions the way belong in the fourth region of the
for the cultivation of the vine. Wines of Controlled Denomination of Origin
(WCNO). 23 grape varieties are grown.
Climate: Winters here can be cold, and part
of this route goes up to the snow line, at its Red varieties: Mavro, Ohalmo,
highest point 1,100 metres, but sunshine is Maratheiko, Carignan Noire, Mataro, Oellade,
never far away. Autumn is short, but its rains Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Alicante
bring spring-like conditions and hosts of wild B., Grenache, Shiraz, Merlot, Lefkada
flowers and plenty of greenery. Summers are
warm to hot, but generally there is a breeze to White varieties: Xynisteri, Palomino,
provide a breath of cool air. Malvasia L., Malvasia G., Sauvignon Black,
Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Semillon,
Chardonnay, Malaga

As the poet Constantinos Kavafis said,

“You should want the road to be a long
one”. Here both to travel the route and
to arrive are pleasures.

47
 THE ROUTE
Wine at the Table Taking the A6 Motorway westwards from
Lemesos, we look out for the exit to Kolossi
This is really the big moment. (about seven kilometres along the way), turn
The winemaker didn’t intend you to off and drive south a kilometre. Here is a
stand in a cold room sipping a little of modern, vibrant village spreading northwards
dozens of wines and expelling them. from the old Crusader Castle. Not far away
He wanted you to crack a bottle open are “The Plantations”, where millions of citrus
fruits are picked every year and the scent
(preferably his!) at a table with good
during blossom time is intense. Kolossi offers
food and good company. Now is the
shops and services of all kinds, traditional and
time the wine is called upon to reward modern alike.
our senses, aer its long march from
the vine yard, its fermentation and Kolossi Castle recalls the age of the
maturation. Crusades and one of the Orders, the
Koumandaria of the Knights of St. John,
So, what to drink with what food? that spent many years here. Their period
Read on… in Cyprus coincided with the international
fame of Cyprus’s great sweet wine in the
Royal and Ecclesiastical Courts of Europe,
and it eventually took their name, becoming
“Koumandaria”.
Leaving Kolossi westwards, we soon
come to Erimi Village. As we drive down a
short slope, opposite a row of shops, on the
le is the Wine Museum of Cyprus. Here, in a

48
marvellous building constructed in traditional 1950s and 60s) and its attached taverna, you
stone and tile, you can see vine and wine may take a right turn down a steep cobbled
exhibits of historical and current interest, view road to the old village, cradled in an attractive
an audio-visual presentation, taste and buy a hillside, with a charming little church.
range of Cyprus wines. The land is no longer unsafe. From here the
more adventurous driver may take fascinating
A few metres from the Wine Museum,
unmade-up tracks through the area, which
across the bridge, we turn right on to the
are quite safe, beautiful and peaceful; and you
E601 road and begin our ascent into the
can’t get lost!
hills. We pass Kantou Village and aer about
six kilometres, Souni and Zanakia. This is a Back on the main road, we drive 4 km
pleasing countryside location, in which you can along and down a long slope to the second
refresh mind and body and enjoy a seat under village of the “Wine Villages Region”, Agios
the pine trees in the Zanakia square. Nearby Amvrosios. It repays a stop -surrounded by
is the first modern winery to be built by the hillocks and deep little valleys, there are some
Haggipavlou family in 1893, surrounded by a spectacular drives/walks to be had here. The
model vineyard. streets of the village, too, reward the walker
-most houses are very well restored and they
As we drive on upwards, we pass the new
wind around the slopes delightfully. The main
village of Pano Kivides, with its well laid out
street is lively with its village store, coffee
streets, neat new houses and nice gardens.
shops and a taverna which has a magnificent
The residents were moved here in 1971 from
old Mulberry tree outside (“Sykaminia” in
the old village bearing the name because of
Greek, which is the name of the taverna).
a severe land-slip, rendering the dwellings
unsafe. Shortly aer passing the petrol On the main road is the winery “GAIA
station (which has a fascinating connection OINOTECHNIKI”, established in 1988 and
with Cyprus’s independence struggles of the known for its EU-certified organic red and rosé

49
 wines. Try the “Ambelida” white, which is a donkeys, as well as operating a health service
popular wine, with a pleasing flowery nose and for those still working. Leaving the village
fresh taste, made from the Xynisteri variety. centre eastwards, we can see the old olive
press, a recently built small amphitheatre, with
One hundred metres up the road from
attached refreshment booth and children’s
the “GAIA OINOTECHNIKI” winery, take the
playground and the new Lemesos district
right turn to Vouni Village. In February almond
wine centre. Everywhere there are vineyards,
blossoms dot the way -and when you get there
alas many of them now abandoned (most are
you will see that Vouni is covered with almond
planted with the Mavro grape, now no longer
trees! Nestled in a large hollow in the hillside,
loved by winemakers) but as we motor on
the village lies between two rivers and it is
towards Koilani more spaces are cultivated
noted for its steep, cobbled, narrow streets,
and planted with new grape varieties,
with some very interesting old houses with
supplying the wineries of that village.
traditional court-yards and Venetian arches at
their heart. Everywhere there are balconies to Four kilometres lie between Vouni and
be seen, small and large, all with sensational Koilani -it is a winding road with gorgeous
views. Vouni has trees-lots of them! Big pine views along the long valley to the right. Koilani
trees dot through the buildings, and the fields is utterly charming with winding shaded
and gardens have almonds, pomegranates, streets and some delightful village houses
figs, citrus, peach and apricots, whilst just hidden away behind their tree-lined court-
outside there are clusters of cypress and yards. It is a lively busy village with some
eucalyptus trees. Thirty years ago Vouni had local industry and commercial activities and
2,500 inhabitants, but now less than 100 live includes several wineries.
there permanently. Urbanisation accounted
As a former administrative village of the
for the loss, but families are returning, if only
region, and centre of this “Afames” area,
to restore their old homes for weekends and
with some of the best red grape vineyards in
holidays. In Cyprus, people are very loyal to
Cyprus, it is a place to linger awhile in…
the villages of their ancestors.
The “AGIA MAVRI” winery, started in the
The village has several small ethnic and
1980s by Dr. and Mrs. Ioannides, makes a
religious museums, coffee shops and tavernas.
large range of wines; dry, medium and sweet.
It also hosts the Cyprus Donkey Sanctuary,
It is one of the latter, the “Mosxatos”, that
founded in 1994, which looks aer more than
has made the winery famous internationally
120 sick, old or unwanted former working
50
through the Gold, Silver and Bronze medals it
has won. It is gently sweet, with a dry finish and
is a delightful dessert wine. Mrs. Ioannides is
the chief winemaker.
In the centre of this hilly village there is
the community taverna, a general store and
several styles of coffee shop.
Back on the main road you can take in
“VARDALIS KILANI WINERY”, which welcomes
visitors by appointment. Here is another
chance for wine buffs to try the Cyprus red
grape, the Maratheiko.
Wine is not the only grape product to
be tasted. “Palouzé” and “Soudjoukos” are
Cyprus sweets made from grape juice, boiled
in huge copper cauldrons and cleared with
“white earth”. It is then cooled and thickened
with flour and brought to the boil once more,
sometimes with rose-water or orange water
flavouring, to make a blancmange like dessert
and a chewy whole almond filled sweet.
In October, on the first weekend, Koilani
stages the “Afamia” festival, where palouzé
and other delights are offered for free,
among many other attractions. The village
also hosts an ecclesiastical Museum which
accommodates the skull of Agia Mavri, Patron
Saint of the village. A small wine museum is
currently being renovated.
Down the road from Koilani is the tiny
old Byzantine Church of Agia Mavri which
you must stop and see. A big café/restaurant
operates on both sides of the road, part of it
in the shade of a huge 800 year old Platanus
(Plane) tree. A short drive up a twisting road
through a green gorge to Pera Pedi follows.
Pera Pedi Village is equally spread on
either side of the Saittas to Mandria road. On
the south side the village is old and compact,
whilst on the other side, going up the pine -
clad slopes, the buildings are newer and larger,
with some lovely houses hidden away in the
pine trees. Apples are a crop here -we are

51
 “Red wine with meat,
white wine with fish”
We all know this general rule. Is
it set in stone? The answer is “No”. Whites and Seafood
The rule is simple, drink the wine
you like (red, white, rosé; sweet, Grilled fish calls for a so,
medium, dry) with the food you like. well balanced white -and here our
Nevertheless, it is true that in general local Xynisteri does very well. With
red wine is better with read meat, lobster, prawns and other seafood,
and white with fish. especially dishes with sauces
made with cheese, or tomatoes,
The tannins in red wine find a something more robust is called
match in the proteins of meat, but for: Semillon, Chardonnay or
with chicken, rabbit and some other Sauvignon Blanc -all of which are
white meat, there are many vigorous good matches.
white wines which can match them.
The heavier the red meat, then the
more intense the red wine that may
be drunk with them.

52
 on the snow line; above it apples, Along the way near the church is the
below it olives. Here you can splendid Chateau of “LAMBOURIS WINERY”,
see the buildings that comprised where group visitors are welcome. Founded
the second commercial winery of in 1989, from small beginnings making wine
Cyprus, started in 1894 by the English in a chilled fruit store, it has become quite a
Chaplin family, and bought by KEO on large and successful, exporting producer. Try
their formation in 1928. Restoration is a the Xynisteri, “Lambouri White”, and barrel-
possibility. fermented Chardonnay.
Now we take the road to Mandria. Aer To get back on to our route we re-trace
five kilometres or so we bear le down into our path to Mandria Village and head south-
this pretty village. Rainfall is generally good west to Omodos. Just before we get there we
here, so it is green and well planted. At come upon the family-run “ZENON” winery,
the bottom of the village, we can visit the which is a middle-sized producer. Its premises
“M. ANTONIADES” Winery, another family show off a lot of viticultural and household
business, where the winemaker uses the implements of historical interest. From the
unusual “free flow” system to produce the range of wines try ZENON’S fresh and fruity
grape juice (the weight of the grapes in the vat Xynisteri.
is sufficient to ensure this flow of juice). There
are old winemaking implements on show, and Aer 72 km, so far, our next port-of-call is
a splendid tasting room, with a large balcony Omodos, where we leave the car in the ample
giving wonderful views across the landscape. car park and walk into the pedestrianised
The Antoniades brand name is “Castellani” village square “Timios Stavros” - “Holy
and you can try both the red and white wines. Cross”, which is bounded by cra and fashion
shops, coffee shops and eating places, with
Back on the main road we head north for the fine monastery building at its foot. The
another five kilometres, when we reach Kato village is bustling and beautifully restored
Platres Village. Plenty of hills surround us, with throughout. It lies on the western bank of River
pine trees galore and wonderful air. There is Chapotami, at an altitude of 810 metres and
a touristic feeling here and it is popular with is surrounded by hills. Good rainfall ensures
Cypriots and foreigners alike. It is pleasantly much more than just vineyards, with various
cool in high summer.

53
54
crops and all kinds of orchard fruit grown.
The huge renovated wine press (Linos) is well
Exceptions can be pleasing
worth a visit. Omodos is popular with tourists, Do you know of any rule that carries
so there are plenty of restaurants and several no exception? Of course not, and it is
good places to stay. the same with matching wines to food!
Leaving Omodos we return to the E601 Depending on one’s knowledge, one’s
road to Erimi. Shortly aer we do so we spot mood and one’s imagination, the “Red
the “LINOS WINERY”, which welcomes the with meat, White with fish” rule can be
visitor. Grapes from privately owned vineyards bent with no ill effect. It’s all a question of
(currently being extended) of both local and what you cook and how.
foreign varieties make a range of popular table
wines. LINOS is family-run and the current If you are serving chicken with a
director is Mr. Herodotos Herodotou. From red, spicy gravy, it’s rather difficult to
the winery you can admire the splendid view escape the cardinal rule. But if you
across the valley to the east and the chalky “dress” poultry with a simple white sauce
ridge of Afames with its prominent vineyards. (mushroom, for instance), then you can
The area is steeped in history, ancient and
easily complement it with a rich white
modern.
wine which has fermented or matured in
Not far along the road, we take a short an oak barrel. As a result, it will possess
detour to Vasa village, four kilometres roughly a denser and more “weighty” presence.
from Omodos. The way in, down a deep little
valley with a 180° turn at the bottom, where a In contrast, fish can be combined
charming little chapel has to be seen, is really with a light red wine, provided that,
lovely. Then, upwards into Vasa, yet another on the one hand, we select a fatty sea-
rural village, with yet another character all dweller such as swordfish, eel, salmon
of its own. The products of the good earth et al and, on the other hand, we cook our
have supported this community for hundreds
dish in a relatively spicy manner.
of years and wine has been a commercial
business here for a long time as well.
As we arrive, the village church of Agios
Georgios dominates the view. Another
building that catches the eye is an imposing
restored stone house which hosts “VASA
WINERY”. This is a ‘boutique’ winery founded
by former international businessman Pambos
Argyrides. Pambos has inherited the wine-
making mantle of his great grandfather,
grandfather and father, turning their traditions
into stylish modern wines using Xynisteri and
Chardonnay, Mataro, Cabernet Sauvignon
and Maratheiko. In his complex there reside
his forbears’ winemaking tools and the huge

55
 terra cotta jars (“Pitharia”) in which the Village is one of the vinicultural villages
wine was made. Alongside are the gleaming which largely maintains its old character, less
temperature controlled stainless steel touristically developed than Omodos and
fermenters and storage tanks with today’s Vasa. It is most noticeable for the multi-million
vintages in them. Through a doorway and you Euro wine development close by-the “MALIA”
enter Pambos’s delightful residence, complete (KEO) winery. Originally built in 1930,
with tasting room. Down below are cool the chateau-like structure was completely
cellars, with elegant new French oak barrels re-built in 1996 and a large modern wine-
maturing Argyrides wines. making plant added. Visits can be arranged
by appointment. Around the winery are 50
Vasa is not a large village, but worth
hectares of model vineyards, planted with a
a stroll around its pleasant streets, with
wide variety of indigenous and international
several tavernas, shops and coffee shops
grapes. From the range, the “Ktima Malia”
adorning them. Here, and indeed in virtually
Riesling is interesting, because it is one of the
all winemaking villages, as you walk the
few successful manifestations of this grape in
streets you see the huge “Pitharia” close to
Cyprus. The Chardonnay is also worth trying,
the houses, in yards and sometimes in the
with characteristic flower and fruit notes of
dwellings themselves. They are a reminder
this grape.
that in days gone by every family made its
own wine -some for consumption, some for Another essentially rural ride takes us
distilling and some for marinating pork meat four kilometres to Arsos Village. Like so
and sausages, to keep for winter. There is a many others it is built on a hill (good for
charming Folklore Museum here as well, with defensive purposes), its streets plunge
a lot of exhibits and information about vines down into a green valley with a stream at its
and wines. foot. This provides excellent opportunities
for walks. Arsos has a gentrified look about
From Vasa take the local, tarmac road
it, with many houses either restored or re-
to Malia Village, passing along an undulating
constructed or new ones built in traditional
plateau with a myriad of vineyards. Before
local stone. It is becoming a popular place
the Turkish invasion of 1974 Malia was a
to live. Along the valley track, or by another
bi-communal village and this is evident from
road from the village, on the western side, is
the tall Minaret of the village Mosque. Malia
the “NIKOLETTINO” winery. Its position offers

56
the visitor and wine taster handsome views olive park, with a busy modern olive press
to the village and around the countryside. The at the heart of a complex that includes olive
winery’s grapes are essentially local and from museum, restaurant, art gallery and shop.
the range you may try the white Xynisteri. Anogyra is a forward-thinking, modern
Arsos Village has an ecclesiastical and village with a large expatriate population who
a folkloric museum, both of which should be work with their Cypriot residents on some fine
visited. In the centre of the village there is an cultural, traditional and artistic programmes.
excellent produce shop, where you may buy In a lovely village setting is the
the fine-quality local olive oil (a fast expanding “NICOLAIDES” family winery, now run by Mr
growth industry in Cyprus, as befits the move Nikos Nikolaides, third generation winemaker
to the healthy Mediterranean diet) and dine who graduated in Oenology in France. Nikos
well at the local taverna. has taken traditions and married them to
From Arsos village go back to the E601 modern techniques. He produces around
and drive south. Aer about eight kilometres 100,000 bottles a year from grapes from
we take a right turn to Pachna. This is a large family vineyards and those of contracted
and purposeful village, with a lot going on. growers. From the reds, taste the Maratheiko,
There is a number of outstanding country the white dry Chardonnay and the interesting
walks from here, with churches old and new Rosé. Nicos makes a very good Muscat liqueur
that demand a visit. Aer our look around, we wine, too.
go on again, this time on the cross-country Now it is time to descend to sea level,
gravelled road to Anogyra, a distance of 7 km. taking the twisting road to Avdimou village.
Olives, vines and goat herds dot the landscape Avdimou is handily placed near the Motorway
but all are now in carob country! These lovely roughly equidistant from Lemesos and Pafos.
old trees fight for their existence today, as It’s a friendly place, an unspoilt place, with
their crop is desired less and less. As you a truly Cypriot taverna and coffee shops.
approach Anogyra on the le is the “Oleastro” From here some excellent beaches (with

57
 their ‘resident’ tavernas) are but a couple of
kilometres away over the Motorway Bridge
and following the well signposted tracks.
And so ends this major wine route.
At the end of it, one considers the people we
have encountered, the sights we have seen in
countryside and village, the sounds we have
heard, and, of course, the times at the table
and tasting room. At this point, so many of us
have fallen in love with the real Cyprus, and
feel no surprise that so many people, from
ancient history onwards have done the same...

58
And what about Rosé?
Rosé is an oen neglected
and under-rated wine. Cyprus
winemakers produce a number of
good ones, from various grapes
ranging from Maratheiko and
Mellow Fellows
Mataro, to the classic grape for Dessert wines, which are
rosé, Grenache, and, blended, the sweet because fermentation has
local Mavro. They come as dry and either ceased naturally or has
medium-dry, and on a hot summer’s been stopped before all the sugar
evening, they are the ideal wine for is converted into alcohol, can
a salad selection, a buffet or Cyprus have much to offer. The traditional
Meze. Cyprus meal finale of a big bowl
Where there is a mixture of of fresh fruits and usually sugary,
flavours and a table with vegetables, sometimes beautifully cheesy
meat, fish and seafood, then a bottle pastries, is a fine time to sip a
of rosé is the wine choice. With glass of Koumandaria, a Muscat,
Chinese, Thai and Japanese food, Moscato or Fortified wine. For
it’s excellent. It can match milder those who are full up by this time,
curries and other Indian dishes, and they can be a pleasing digestif.
with a platter of Italian Antipasto And then… what about the
it’s a good choice. So, when you’re exotic, rich, match of a good
dining, try a Cyprus rosé! dessert wine and a fine blue
cheese, like Roquefort, Stilton,
or Gorgonzola? Or even more
extravagantly, as a starter with
Foie Gras?

59
60
WINERIES

I.M. GAIA
OINOTECHNIKI
25943981, 99442472
Agios Amvrosios

AGIA MAVRI LTD

25470225, 25370777
Koilani

VARDALIS
WINERY LTD
25470261, 25392198
99642255, Koilani

LAMBOURIS
WINERY LTD
70009463
Kato Platres

M. ANTONIADES
WINERY
25384121, 25422638
99824475, Mandria

NIKOLETTINO
WINERY
99437137
Arsos

ZENON WINERY
25423555, 99492979
Omodos

VASA WINERY
25945999, 99588848
Vasa

MALIA (KEO) LTD

25942131, 99692295
Malia

61
 WINERIES

DOMAINE 80
NIKOLAIDES
25333821, 99649655
Anogyra

LINOS WINERY 300

25422700
Omodos

TAVERNAS / RESTAURANTS

KAMARES ARIADNI
25470719 25942185
Ilia Kannaourou, Lofou, Lemesos Vasa Koilaniou, Lemesos

STAVROS STOU KYR GIANNI

25422647, 99612772 25422100, 99308555
Dimokratias 24, Omodos, Lemesos Omodos, Lemesos

FOREST PARK BLUE SKYLIGHT

25421751 25422244,
Platres, Lemesos Faneromenis, Omodos, Lemesos

TO PALATI LOFOU
25943888, 99649139 25470202
Vasa Koilaniou, Lemesos Tsintouri, Lofou, Lemesos

62
PIRKOS AGORA
25942655, 99491455 99630077, 99325396
Vasa Koilaniou, Lemesos Plateia Apostolou Filipou 1, Arsos, Lemesos

Ι OREA ELLAS ΟCHIRO

25944328 25945055, 99614602
Ellados 3, Vouni, Lemesos Vouniou 6, Agios Amvrosios, Lemesos

63
 5 Koumandaria
route

Lemesos, Kolossi, Erimi, Alassa, Agios Georgios Silikou, Doros,

Laneia, Trimiklini, Agios Mamas, Kapileio, Zoopigi, Kalo Chorio,
Agios Pavlos, Agios Konstantinos, Louvaras, Gerasa, Apsiou,
Paramytha, Palodeia, Agia Fyla

THE SWEET OLD GRAND-

DADDY WINE OF CYPRUS…
As we drive north out of Lemesos on the wine, referred to as such by Isiodos in his 10th
B6 main road, leaving the hustle and bustle of century work “Days and Work”.
the city behind, a feeling of some anticipation
occurs. The road rises up steadily and soon Today’s name, Koumandaria, dates from
open country is around us. We are going to 1191, when Richard Coeur de Lion sold
see a lot of villages today and we are going Cyprus to the Order of the Knights of the
to investigate Cyprus’s great wine tradition, Temple. It is thought that this wine was served
that of a sweet wine produced since time at his wedding to Queen Berengaria in that
immemorial. The very word sounds romantic year. The territories in which the Templars
and historic: “Koumandaria”. Now it covers settled they called “Commanderies”. In Cyprus,
not just the wine, but the denominated region the largest was at Kolossi Castle, which, as we
of its production, too. Fourteen villages make have noted on a previous page, is well worth
it and they are to be found at altitudes of a visit.
between 500 and 900 metres, encompassed So the wine took its name from the
within an area of 12 kilometres which lies Knights who were involved in its making and
parallel to the coast, approximately 25 km exporting it to the Courts of Europe and the
away. Mediterranean region. Therefore, for more
This is a captivating tour with splendid than sentimental regions, this tour starts at
views all around as we drive along the heights Kolossi, and as we explore the castle, we can
of a wide valley, above and below. The wine we transport our minds back to the Mediaeval
have come to discover is renowned in history. feasting that once went on in its rooms,
where the vast roasts and other dishes were
Probably sweet wine was made in Cyprus accompanied by this luscious sweet wine,
in antiquity and most certainly it is older than whose consumption we confine today to
its name, “Koumandaria”. A millennia ago, or desserts, a digestif, or -if we are adventurous-
even almost two, it was a mellow Communion with Paté de Foie Gras.

64
 GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS

As we drive upwards, the road takes a dip Terrain: In contrast with other wine areas
downwards, running along the northern the region oen offers poor, shallow soil with
edge of the Kouris Reservoir. This is an comparatively high amounts of carbon and
interesting region, with seasonal interests calcium. Consequently the grape yield per
for bird-watchers and other nature seekers, hectare is lower than, say the Pafos region.
as well as hikers, walkers and ramblers.
There are ancient sites, too, and everywhere Vineyards: All the villages on this route
vistas in the foreground, middle ground and lie in the region of production of “Wines
northwards in the mountainous distance, of Controlled Denomination of Origin”,
Along the way, there are two wineries to “Koumandaria”. The majority of vineyards
visit. are planted with the indigenous Mavro and
Xynisteri. Five other varieties are also in
Climate: With its altitude the Koumandaria evidence.
region has a temperate climate with a
pronounced variation between winter Red varieties: Mavro, Ohalmo, Cabernet
(which can be cold and frosty, with, in most Sauvignon, Grenache
years, regular rainfall) and summer, which is
generally dry and warm, but with the cooling White varieties: Palomino, Malaga,
air and breezes one finds in the Troodos Xynisteri
foothills.

This route, travelling north

from Lemesos unites modern day
vine growing and wine making with
antiquity. Wines like those you will
find have been made right here for
many centuries.

65
 Ten Points of Serving
1. Normally, whites are served
first, followed by rosé and finally the
red.

2. If only white wine is to be

served, then start with the lightest
(usually meaning level of alcohol)
and least complex wine, moving
through to the fullest (oen barrel
fermented and/or matured).

3. Youngest wines are served

first, moving through to the oldest.

4. Generally, wines of lower

calibre (usually the least expensive) THE ROUTE
are served first, moving up the scale Though we are going on a northwards
as the meal progresses. route, it is appropriate to start at Kolossi,
at a distance of about 14 kilometres from
5. Champagne and sparkling Lemesos on the B6. Despite the predations
wines are usually served first, mostly of modern man and the expansion of his
as aperitifs. Sweet “sparklers” can residence and commercial activities, there is
accompany desserts or are served plenty of fertile farming and fruit growing land
at the conclusion of a meal. hereabouts. The region has a long agricultural
history, frequently reported appreciatively in
6. Sweet wines are for desserts the diaries and logs of travellers in the Middle
and the conclusion the meal. Ages.
7. For red wines you can find Imagine the rich plantations of old
ranges of glasses suitable for surrounding the Crusader Castle of the
each style. A large glass with the Knights of St. John at Kolossi -sugar cane,
top narrower than the waist is cotton, vines, vegetables and fruits of every
description.
recommended. White wine glasses
are smaller, but should still be of Dominating the flat landscape is the
a size to let the wine have room square and rugged, stone-built and strong
in which to open and disclose its Castle, dating from the 13th century, where
aroma. The best measure to pour is the Knights made their regional Headquarters.
one third of a glass -never, ever, fill a When you sip a lovely little measure of
glass more than half full! Koumandaria, whether with dessert, fruit or
even a liver paté, you are sampling quite a lot
(continued on page 69) more than a wine of “Controlled Denomination
of Origin”. You are imbibing a wine that is very

66
much like those made in Biblical times, and Leaving Kolossi westwards, we soon
you have encountered a method of making come to Erimi Village, the main part of which
that is globally unusual, if not unique. The extends from this, the old Pafos road, to the
texture, the aroma, the flavour, these are just boundaries of the Motorway. As we drive down
found in this noble wine of Cyprus. a short slope, opposite a row of shops, on the
le is the Wine Museum of Cyprus. Here, in a
To start with, the grapes are the
marvellous building constructed in traditional
indigenous varieties whose origins are lost
stone and tile, you can see vine and wine
in the mists of time, the red “Mavro” and
exhibits of historical and current interest, view
the white “Xynisteri”, all grown here on the
an audio-visual presentation and taste and
southern slopes of Troodos, laced by the
buy a range of Cyprus wines. The building is
rivers Mesa Potamos, Limnatis and Garyllis.
on the site of the former family home of the
But there is more to it than “terroir”; the
Museum’s creator Anastasia Guy, a noted
vinification is preceded by the grapes being
musician and composer.
laid out in the sun for a week aer picking, to
enhance sugar level and density. Vinification Now we cross the little bridge of Erimi, and
wine is barrelled for maturation in the sun. turn right returning to the Lemesos - Pafos
Wine which evaporates and is replaced by Motorway, where we strike out eastwards
fresh, a process not unlike the Bodega system towards Lemesos. We drive on to the big
of Sherry making. flyover and look out for the turn off le to Agia
Fyla, the B8 road. Agia Fyla is now a suburb
Visit the Castle. Walk around or relax in its
of Lemesos, but we are soon in open country
shaded corners, interior and exterior. Marvel
and climbing on a fine wide road. Shortly we
at the huge tree “Machairion” (Machaerium
will pass the Kouris Reservoir on the le -the
Tibu) in the courtyard, which, extraordinarily
biggest in the island- and Alassa village on the
came from Argentina two hundred years ago.
hill to our right.
Even in this day and age the vineyards almost
reach to the walls of the castle.
67
68
 We are ascending continually with a
wonderful valley vista spread out to the
le and the Troodos Mountains ahead. Turn Ten Points of Serving
off le when you see the sign to Monagri
village, where wine has been made since time
immemorial. A visit to the restored monastery 8. Don’t chill wine in the freezer,
and the little Church of the Archangel and because the abrupt fall in temperature
the nearby monastery of the Virgin Mary of may alter it.
Amasgos are rewarding.
9. Don’t keep wine in the
The bendy, undulating little road here
refrigerator for a long time, because
weaves among delightful views and it is no
the temperature is too low for storing
wonder many people come to live here, in
countryside residences or restored village most wines and if the wine has been
houses. The next village is the tiny one of opened, it can acquire an odour.
Agios Georgios, where the “terroir” is ideal for
10. Keep a wine cooler on the
growing the grapes that make Koumandaria.
table to keep white and rosé wines at
Continuing on this well made country road an appropriate serving temperature.
we proceed to climb to 650 metres altitude,
and Silikou village. A pretty little place, where
one can relax, walk, take coffee or a meal and
enjoy the scene. Sadly, the old wine presses
(Linos) are abandoned, but there are fountains
to be enjoyed, where in one’s mind’s eye we
may see horsemen of olden days refreshing
themselves and their animals! The springs that
serve these have long helped irrigate the fruit
trees and plots around the village. Silikou is
famous for the quality of its raisins.
We retrace our steps to Agios Georgios,
noting the completely different aspects of the
scenery as we go in the opposite direction and
from there to Monagri. We take a le turn to
Doros village. The distances here are short,
just a kilometre or two. In open situations,
above the River Mesa Potamos, those
villages constitute the western part of the
Koumandaria region.
Stroll the paved streets of Doros, take
some coffee and a glass of cool mountain
water, and then make for this first of two
Koumandaria Wineries: “PANAGIOTIS
KARSERAS” winery is next to the church of
Agios Epifanios -16th century.

69
 Production here is around 100,000 Returning once more to the B8 road, we
bottles a year, half of which is made for the turn right and head for Trimiklini village. The
large Lemesos wine firm ETKO. The winery ride is only a few minutes. On the north side
is owned by the Community President of the of the village we turn right and aer about
village, who has run it for more than 10 years. two kilometres we come to the settlement of
The winery uses both traditional and modern Agios Mamas, in fertile and wooded areas,
equipment and techniques in making this at an altitude of 600 metres. This is truly
lovely sweet wine, taking in grapes from vine lovely rural Cyprus and it is the location of the
growers all around the village. Koumandaria winery of the Co-Operative.
Conducted tours with Greek, English and We carry on; the woods thicken and the
Russian commentaries may be arranged, and slopes around us become a lot steeper, and
it is recommended to contact the winery to set we find the tiny village of Kapilio, standing
up your visit. out on a hill, dominating the Limnatis village
valley, which is also referred to as Ampelikos.
Our visit over and our Koumandaria
tasted and purchased, we head back to the Driving back to Agios Mamas we turn
B8 and turn le. Very shortly we see the sign right and, aer driving along this pretty valley
for Laneia and turn right. Laneia has not only for about seven kilometres, we reach the
remained well preserved, it has been lovingly E110 road. Going northwards, we come to
restored and it is a popular place to live, Zoopigi village at an altitude of 885 metres.
whose residents include noted artists and The views here are stunning, the powerful
writers. Here you may see a traditional wine mountains of the region, dissected by the
press which has been well restored. There are tributaries of River Limnatis, (locally known as
restaurants, coffee shops as well as places “Xilourikos”) and River Germasoyias, providing
to buy souvenirs, art-works, cra items and unexpected, harsh-seeming even, beauty.
sweet-meats like the famous Soudjouko,
We next make for Kalo Chorio village,
the Eau-de-Vie Zivania and, of course
which is an important centre of Koumandaria
Koumandaria and other local wines. A walk
production and a land-mark of the village. The
around will demonstrate the harmony in which
winery, the “COOPERATIVE COMPANY OF
this modern, but traditional, village exists with
VINICULTURE” is close by the Church of Agios
the surrounding nature.
Georgios in “Koumandaria Avenue”.

70
Recommended Serving Temperatures
Champagne, Sparkling wines, Sweet wines 7-9°C

Dry White Wines 8-10°C

Mature Dry White barrel-aged wines 10-12°C

Rosé Wines 10-12°C

Light Red and Nouveau style wines 12-14°C

Red wine with medium body 15-16°C

Rich or well matured red wines 16-18°C

71
 Wine Glasses
The simpler, the better! Ignore
fancy engraving, coloured sand
sculpted glasses. Most good
supermarkets have good basic wine
glasses of the right shape to get the
best out of the main styles of wine.
More specialised glasses can be had,
in varying price ranges, from catering
suppliers and wine stores.

Good glasses are of thin, clear

glass or crystal. Less expensive ones
are machine made and are perfectly
adequate. The best ranges are hand -
blown in designs to get the best from
certain grapes or types of wine.

Glasses for table wines have a

base, a stalk and the bowl, which is
tulip shaped. The widest part is at the
waist and the glass should become
narrower near the top.

Champagne used to be served in

what looks like an ice-cream glass,
formally known as “Marie Antoinette”,
but today a long narrow glass called
a “Flute” is the ideal method to serve
your “bubbly”. For Fortified Wines like
Port, Sherry and Madeira, a shorter
glass like a Flute is ideal, whilst
dessert wines can also use such a
receptacle, or a rounder small glass.

72
 As is the case with most of the
wineries we shall visit in these Wine Routes,
the grapes used are essentially local. In
this case, they are exclusively of the white
Cyprus grape, Xynisteri. The wines produced
are taken, aged and bottled by the two major
companies, KEO and ETKO.
Here there may be no shop, but you
may try a sip or two of the wine direct from
the barrel, an experience not to be missed!
Visitors may take a conducted tour (Greek
and English languages) and see a fascinating
audio visual presentation about the making of
Koumandaria.
As we continue our journey in an eastern
direction, aer a short while we come to Agios
Pavlos and Agios Constantinos villages. The
Koumandaria here is fine stuff, made from
Xynisteri and Mavro, and benefiting from the
high altitude at which the grapes are grown.
The surroundings are almost Alpine -the
mountain slopes, the forest, the air and the
dense vineyard plantations. In the square
of Agios Pavlos you can see a truly old wine
press, while in Agios Constantinos there
is an old church of traditional architecture,
dedicated to the Agios Constantinos and
Eleni. Also to be seen are on old mill and a fine
village fountain.

73
74
 The next village on our way is Louvaras.
To get to it with drive back to Kalo Chorio
village and, at the end of Koumandaria avenue,
turn le and again le at a second road.
Louvaras is a very picturesque village,
built on an open and flat place, above
the beginning of the River Garillis Valley,
surrounded by dense woodland punctuated
by abrupt slopes and small canyons. Near the
village is the small church of Agios Mamas,
which was built in 1455 and includes murals
of Philippos Goul.
The last and lower villages of the region of
Koumandaria are Apsiou and Gerasa. Although
there is an un-made-up track parallel to the
river that runs through the forest which can
take you there, it will be more comfortable
if you go back to Kalo Chorio. From here,
downwards to the le for about five kilometres
you will come to Apsiou village on the le and
Gerasa village on the right side of the road.
The distance between them is about one
kilometre. Gerasa village is found in a fertile
open and flat place in a thinly wooded area,
above River Garillis. The vines most cultivated
at this altitude (430 meters) are of the
Mavro variety. Gerasa village maintains some
characteristics of the traditional architecture
of the semi-highland region but its having less
water makes it less green.
Lemesos isn’t far from here, about twelve
kilometres south. Aer we have passed
Paramytha and Palodia villages we reach Agia
Fyla and the motorway. The total distance of
our drive has been a little more than a hundred
kilometres. For us, we have enjoyed a modern-
age, speedy travelling of an olden-days wine
route, making the acquaintance of one of the
world’s oldest wines.

75
76
WINERIES

CO-OPERATIVE 50
COMPANY
OF VINICULTURE
25542266, 99534060
Kalo Chorio

KARSERAS WINERY 80
99413238, 99589325
Doros

TAVERNAS / RESTAURANTS

PARAMYTHA RAFTIS
25452444, 99645247 25774001
Makedonias 1, Paramytha, Lemesos Michalaki Karaoli 16, Palodeia, Lemesos

SILIKOU VILLAGE TO STEKI TOU MELI

25470001, 99892027 25770225, 99752919
Silikou, Lemesos Eleherias 5, Palodeia, Lemesos

ESTIATORIO FILITOS TAVERNA TO APTALIKO

25543344, 99608135 99639321
Kalo Chorio, Lemesos Peukou 1, Kalo Chorio, Lemesos

VILLAGE TAVERN KALO CHORIO LANEIA

25542737, 99429119 25432398, 99464759
Kalo Chorio, Lemesos Laneia, Lemesos

77
 6 Pitsilia
route

Lemesos, Agia Fyla, Palodeia, Alassa, Trimiklini, Pelendri,

Potamitissa, Dymes, Kyperounta, Chandria, Polystypos, Alona,
Agros, Agios Ioannis, Agios Theodoros, Zoopigi

WILD… AND BEAUTIFUL

This route takes us through the eastern vine year by the moon’s positions -something
aspects of the Troodos Mountains. It is called that some modern organic winemakers are
Pitsilia and the wine tourist comes upon no returning to today. For the wine-lover each
less than 14 villages involved in vine growing season brings something different: the cold
or winemaking in one way or another. The hills winter lull in vine growth and vine pruning in
are sturdy and steep and the good tarmac the coldest temperatures… Spring, and the
road twists its way upwards and round them. warming of the air and land bringing shoots
Villages are dramatically revealed to us as we of new growth of leaves and buds. Then, bud
round the bends. The three peaks of Troodos - burst and flowering and the watch through
look down on the vineyards of Pitsilia. The the summer to ensure healthy vines and
highest peak is Olympus, at 1952 metres, grapes. And, finally, as the hot months fade into
followed by Madari (1672m) and Papoutsa autumn, the making of the year’s wine. Vine
(1530m). leaves turn gold, red and dark and then fall -
In this almost wild landscape, cultivated their greenery replaced by new grass and plant
land clings to the steep slopes, a tribute growth following the fall and winter rains.
to man’s determination. Trees abound, in
orchards, gardens, streets and yards: almonds,
olives, walnuts, apples and wild berries. But
the loveliest array of greenery (especially in
dry summers) is that of the vineyards. Their
produce here feeds the two wineries we can
visit on this itinerary.
Rural life in Cyprus has always been hard.
People’s lives were totally related to the land
and geared to the seasons -and the phases
of the moon. Indeed many vine growers still
plan their pruning and other aspects of the

78
 GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS

Plenty goes on in Pitsilia villages and their Terrain: The region is intensely mountainous,
nearby areas, quite a lot of it to do with but there are substantial cultivated areas that
food and wine. The area is surrounded by pleasingly co-exist with the natural vegetation
four forests: Troodos forest in the west, and woodlands. The soil is usually grey in
Mahairas forest in east, the Adelfoi forest in colour, as befits a limestone area, with some
the north, and Lemesos forest to the south. sandy constituents.
It is dominated by the peak of Madari (1,672
m). Generally, there is ample rainfall here, Vineyards: 32 villages of the region
producing rich vegetation. are included in the area of production of
Noted for its scenery and its many activities, “Controlled Denomination of Origin” (WCNO)
the Pitsilia area is also well known for the “Pitsilia”. Apart from local Mavro and Xynisteri,
friendliness and hospitality of its residents. 11 other varieties of vines are cultivated.
Two wineries lie before us to look at, taste and
enjoy… Red Varieties: Ohalmo, Maratheiko,
Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mataro,
Climate: This is pleasant light Alpine-winters Mavro, Shiraz, Lefkada
can be fresh and cold, with frosts and snowfalls.
Summers are warm and pleasant with the White Varieties: Xynisteri, Sauvignon Blanc,
altitude to temper the sun’s heat. Chardonnay, Malaga

Here the wine tourist will find a

wonderful mountain environment for
the growing of grapes in small family
-owned vineyards, for the area’s
wineries.

79
 Cyprus Grape Varieties
White Wines
Xynisteri Sauvignon Blanc
Xynisteri is the indigenous white Another French grape that has
grape of Cyprus. Modern technology travelled the globe (especially to the New
and winery practice have combined in World). Its vigorous fragrance, its bite
recent years to produce a fresh, fruity, and forward fruit are noticeable in a few
pleasing white wine, which is best Cypriot-made examples
drunk within a year of bottling. Many
good examples of 100% Xynisteri are Semillon
available, and it also blends well with
Semillon has settled well here and
varieties such as Semillon.
there are some noticeable examples.
Chardonnay Gentle citrus notes combine with excellent
acidity, and it blends well with Cyprus
The “World’s White Wine” grape Xynisteri.
has settled well in Cyprus and there
are a number of quite enjoyable local Muscat of Alexandria
examples -some have been fermented
Some of our winemakers produce both
in oak, some barrel-aged and others
dry and sweet wines from this old variety.
produced without oak. Flowery notes,
It is also blended with Xynisteri to produce
fruitiness, good body and a nice finish
a nicely rounded white wine.
are its characteristics.
(continued on page 83)

80
THE ROUTE
We leave the A1 Motorway and take the to. Incredibly good fortune stalled the fires
B8 road towards Troodos. It is a wide and good literally at the gates of our first wine stop of
road, and we can make progress upwards. the tour. Up a winding track deep in what was
Aer a few kilometres we descend to a valley the forest is “TSIAKKAS WINERY”, a ten year
which opens into the largest Reservoir in old family run business, whose founder gave
Cyprus, Kouris, whilst on our right above us is up a career in banking to start the winery and
Alassa village. Motoring further north we come make his own wine. Even aer the fires, this is
to Trimiklini village which really constitutes the a spectacular location in which to taste some
lower boundary of the Pitsilia area. Cyprus wines.
Strung along either side of this main road, Costas and Marina Tsiakkas make a good
newly re-built through the village, Trimiklini range of wines from both indigenous and
nevertheless preserves its village identity. It’s international grape varieties. They strive
worth a stop, for the shops, coffee shops and to enhance the quality of their wines, with
places to eat. Virtually year-round there are the help of specialised oenologists, and are
stalls selling all kinds of local fruits, preserves achieving growing success. Their small team is
and other food products. In the village, too, passionately dedicated and their enthusiasm
there are good places to buy basketwear, charms visitors. You may try whites made from
pottery, and, if you are a resident, shrubs and Chardonnay, Xynisteri and Sauvignon Blanc,
plants for the garden. Truly a modern Cypriot and their red Cabernet Sauvignon is also highly
village! praised.
A little northwards, we turn right on the Group visits are preferred, by prior
E806 to Pelendri village. The road takes quite appointment.There are good facilities for
a spectacular climb, with the scenery marked tastings and sales (including Koumandaria),
by rocky outcrops, pine trees and natural plant snacks, souvenirs and picnics.
life. Sadly, areas here have been decimated by
We leave the winery and re-join the E806,
recent forest fires, leaving a moonscape rather
turning le towards Pelendri. This is semi-
than the green landscapes we are accustomed
81
 circularly located in the hillsides overlooking 300,000 bottles. It is owned by the Photos
the Limnatis River Valley. As we have seen Photiades group, notable for their Carlsberg
before, there is old and new here, as befits a Cyprus Brewery, and who have utilised the
village with its own businesses and agricultural expertise of Greece’s largest wine producer,
activities, with recently built homes side by side Boutari, to develop this winery.
with old as well as restored structures.
The result of all this is that the plant is
The narrow, bustling main street of Pelendri modern and the range of four wines, produced
can be quite testing for the visiting driver, but by skilled oenologists, is achieving deserved
mercifully it is only a couple of minutes before success. Try the white “Petritis” Xynisteri and
we are through and on our way to Potamitissa Chardonnay; the red blend “Andessitis” as well
(3 kms), and a little further on, Dymes as the Cabernet Sauvignon.
village. Though these hamlets do have some
Visits are by arrangement. The conducted
permanent residents, a great many houses are
tour has both English and Greek commentaries,
weekend places for city dwellers. Those who
and there are facilities for tasting and buying
do live here year round have some lovely little
the wines.
places, with shaded courtyards and peaceful
surroundings. On a ridge close to Kyperounta Winery, we
find Chandria village. Here the altitude is around
We pass through Dymes and head for
1300 metres with Madari peak 300 metres
Kyperounta village four kilometres away. This
higher, north of the village. On the south side
is one of the larger villages of Pitsilia and
of Madari, with the pine trees prominent, the
continues to grow and flourish. It is a green
local Mavro and Xynisteri grapes grow in little,
patchwork of dwellings, smallholdings and
utterly timeless vineyards. No mechanical
vineyards, with, of course, the presence of the
cultivation or harvesting of grapes here!
forest close at hand. Our second wine port-of-
call is just outside, on the way to Chandria. Lagoudera, the next village, is a pretty little
settlement which is built in amphitheatric style
“KYPEROUNTA” Winery is accommodated
on the northern side of Madari. It completely
in modern, purpose-built premises, with
maintains its traditional character. Higher
pleasant village views down the slopes on
than Lagoudera, in a north-westerly direction,
which it is sited.
we move on to Saranti village, where we may
This is a medium sized winery with an visit the Monastery of Virgin Mary of Arakas.
annual production which is rising beyond It is a typical 12th century provincial church
with wooden roof adapted to the mountainous
82
areas, and it is well maintained. It is included
in UNESCO’s list of World Cultural Heritage
monuments.
Cyprus Grape Varieties
From Lagoudera village our road moves Red Varieties
south taking us to Polystypos at an altitude of
1150 metres. It’s a lovely little place, rich in Mavro
almond, walnut and cherry trees, surrounded by A falling percentage of land area is
- yes, you’ve guessed! - vineyards of our own
planted with the Mavro, but still 60%
Cyprus grapes.
of vineyards are planted with it. As a
From here turn eastwards awhile to Alona varietal it produces low-acid flaccid wine,
village, about four kilometres. Just at the entry and modern winemakers use it very
to the village in the last but one bend in the
little, except as a blender. In days past
road, lies the fountain “I Vrisi ton Poulion ”,
which is quite hidden. Best to get out, walk it was used for distilling, for marinating
and find it on foot, and it’s worth it. It is an meats and as a basis of Sangria and
isolated place, cool and silent, but also, in a other aromatics. It is being replaced
way, full of life! Colours and aromas assail one’s by Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Merlot,
senses. And then down into the village, with Mataro, Grenache and other grapes.
tree shaded streets and stone steps to take us
around this traditional neighbourhood. Maratheiko
Our next stop is Agros, south-west of The most dynamic indigenous variety
Alona, a distance of a little more than 15 km.
of Cyprus. Not long re-discovered, it
The first half of the way is decidedly rural and
packed with mostly “Mavro”, mainly of black is now being developed for high-acid
variety. There’s a certain wild beauty here, varietal and blended red wines, with
perhaps the trademark of the Pitsilia area. In enormous possibilities. At present only
the second half of the way we pick up the E903 2% of vineyard area is planted with it, but
road that runs down from Palaichori village. further vineyards are being put to it.
At an altitude of 1100 metres Agros is (continued on page 85)
the heart of the Pitsilia area. It is quite a large
place, with a lot going on, under the guidance
of an enterprising Development Board. It is a
tourist centre for both local and foreign visitors,
with a good hotel, other accommodation, as
well as shops, coffee shops and restaurants.
Local Industries include rose and flower waters,
bottled spring water, wine, flowers, honey and
preserves.
For the observant visitor, the streets
demonstrate building design of many
generations, and virtually every house of
whatever provenance has its balconies with

83
 attendant flowers in hanging pots -oil drums cut
in half to house larger plants are not unknown
either- Agros is vibrant! A good centre for
touring or walking holidays.
Now we drive south and aer three
kilometres reach Agios Ioannis, a picturesque
village. Its immediate neighbour is Agios
Theodoros (on the le), which is our last stop
before the return to Lemesos. It used to be
called Eptalofos, meaning Seven Hills. It is a
village with a unique character, with a seldom
seen harmony of people and nature. Streets
well planted with pines take your eye to the
forest, to the fields and vineyards around.
Almond trees mingle with apple trees, pines
mingle with poplars, which seem to embrace
the entire village.
And so we say Farewell to the Pitsilia area.
Descending southwards, we pass Zoopigi,
Gerasa and Paramytha (the home village of
Cyprus’s tennis star Marcos Bagdatis). Finally
we pass the hospitable features of Palodeia
village, and then the northern suburb of
Lemesos, Agia Fyla village, where we end
this tour. The distance did not exceed 120
kilometres, but its many sights will remain
with us.

84
 Cabernet Franc

Cultivated fairly widely. It is

aromatic, more herbaceous and less
Cyprus Grape Varieties fruity than Cabernet Sauvignon, with
lighter body and colour, and matures
Ohalmo faster than Cabernet Sauvignon.
Good blender.
Another local variety that is
cultivated in quite small quantities, Merlot
mainly in the region of Pitsilia, but
also in some villages of the Pafos There is very little Merlot in Cyprus,
district. It usually produces wine of but recent plantings have produced
light colour, characteristic perfume, some interesting wines. In its early
light body and low acidity, which days yet!
is best drunk young. Also a useful
Syrah or Shiraz
blender.
Shiraz is doing well here, producing
Levkada
some rich, big, powerful and intense
A variety that comes from the wines. They have acidity and tannins
Greek island of the same name, to allow considerable aging. Oak plays
Lefkada was first cultivated in Cyprus an important role. Several styles have
in the 1930s. Lefkada has a deep been observed, ranging from very New
red colour, a powerful grapy aroma, a World, to less intense more European.
red colour, and good attack.
Mataro
Blends well with Shiraz.
Cyprus suits Mataro, a variety
Cabernet Sauvignon
of Spanish origin, also known as
The most famous red grape in Mourvèdre in France, where it is a noted
the world which has been planted for blender. It is made as a varietal, notably
more than 25 years in Cyprus. The in Pafos district, and as a blender.
Cypriot Cabernet Sauvignons are Produces well balanced reds with good
usually deep purple-red, with forward body, fruit and tannins.
berry aromas and tastes of red and
Carignan
black berries, green pepper, grasses
and cedar, with plenty of tannins. Carignan is the most planted,
Some present possibilities for aging. foreign variety in Cyprus. In the wine
villages of Lemesos and in the Pafos
district, hundreds of hectares are
planted with this variety. Carignan is
rich in tannins, colour and acidity. The
result is a wine best drunk several years
aer bottling.
(continued on page 86)

85
 Cyprus Grape Varieties
Grenache

Grenache is a satisfactory
variety for Cyprus, as it has adapted
perfectly to the ecosystems of
the island. Red wines are light and
pleasant, with the typical flavour of
the grape very evident. As in many
other countries it makes some
excellent rosé, and it is a fine blender,
too, with such varieties as Shiraz,
Mataro or Cabernet Sauvignon.

86
Lemesos’ “Wine Mile”
a walk full of memories...
On the way from The Old Port of Lemesos Just 150 metres along the avenue we turn
to the New Port there is a substantial trading le down towards the sea and come upon the
area with bonded warehouses and offices of “LOEL” wine factory. Founded in 1943 it is
many of Cyprus’s wineries, spirit and beer run on co-operative lines and has always had
producers. Now in transition with new company a close relationship with countries of Eastern
headquarters, international organisations and Europe, to which it exported large quantities of
a magnificent Marina, it is worth having a look wines and spirits. It is the only one of the Big
at. Here you will find the sites of the four long- Four still conducting all the wine production
standing leaders of the wine industry. processes in Lemesos, but like the others, will
eventually move wine-making to the hills near
The Route
the vineyards. Try “Mediterranean Cabernet
The total distance from the old harbour to Sauvignon” -a dry wine, with a pleasant aroma
the last wine producing plant does not exceed and good structure.
two kilometres, so unless it is very hot it can be
Our third winery, just along the avenue,
comfortably accomplished on foot.
past the traffic lights, is down another turning
From the Old Port roundabout (with its to the le. At the end of the road “SODAP”
noted fish restaurant) and taking the narrow wine factory awaits us. Established in 1947
street westwards, the first point of interest is by many thousands of vine-growers, it is a Co-
the old wine factory of the “HAGGIPAVLOU” operative company, whose production has now
family, now mostly concerned with the been moved to a new purpose-built winery near
company’s production of “Koniak” (Cyprus Stroumpi in the Pafos district. Today SODAP
Brandy). Seeming to resist modernity, it is Cyprus’s largest producer and exporter of
actually houses some very interesting old table wines. Of a large and popular range, try
vintages. “Mountain Vines” Semillon white.

As we walk on the road widens and Now, back on Franklyn Roosevelt Avenue,
aer a couple of hundred metres we enter we turn off le again aer just a few metres
Franklyn Roosevelt Avenue. Presently, our to find the last of the Big Four, and the oldest.
first interesting sight on the le is the KEO It is the premises of ETKO, the brand name
Brewery and then the offices and premises of the Haggipavlou family’s winery. Founded
of KEO Winery. Like the other three of the in 1844 by Chistodoulos Haggipavlou, who
so-called “Big Four”, KEO have traditionally bought sailing ships to transport the wine he
made a large range of grape products -from brought from the hills in goatskins, blended
juice and grape must, through table wines of all and barrelled, to markets in Egypt, Palestine
types, to vermouths, liqueurs and spirits. Until and other countries. ETKO built the first
quite recently visitors could see the wonderful contemporary winemaking plant at Zanakia
Bodega wherein KEO’s “Fino” used to be made, in 1893. They now make their wine at the
and the distillery using French equipment Olympus winery in Omodos and their range of
dating from 1870, which is still in action. Today varietals is worth investigating.
KEO make a modern range of wines at their
To visit any or all of these wineries,
winery at Malia, and the taster is recommended
telephone to find times of opening and facilities
to sample their “Maratheiko”, “Riesling” and
for tours. All have tasting rooms and shops to
“Xynisteri”. KEO is the second oldest wine firm
buy the wines and other items.
in Cyprus dating from 1927.
87
 Out of the way,
but worth a Visit!
The two wineries in this section are well
spaced, but worth an individual visit. They are
part of the growingly rich fabric of the Cyprus
wine industry.
AES AMBELIS
At distance of 30 kilometres from Lefkosia,
this winery is the closest one to the Capital. To get
there, take the E903, to Palaichori and Agros. As
you approach Kalo Chorio Orinis you will find it on the
right hand side, set back a little from the road.
The Aes Ambelis winery is an attractive building.
The owner, George Tripatsas, designed and built
a modern structure on several levels so that the
gravity feed system for juice, must and wine
could be utilised. At its heart is a rotunda shaped
structure which is most attractive. Off the rotunda
are temperature controlled rooms with American
and French oak barrels maturing the four main wines
made by the winery. Visitors are welcome every
day (but call first!). Aes Ambelis are popular wines
and you may try their good “every day” white, their
Cabernet Sauvignon and Liasto, a dessert wine from
Moscato grapes dried in the sun.
DOMAINE HADJIANTONAS
This winery traces its roots to the early 20th
century, when the grandfather of the present owner,
Doros Hadjiantona, established a winery in Pera
Pedi, in the Lemesos district below Platres. Several
generations ran it, but operations ceased in 1978.
Twenty one years later, the young Doros decided
to regenerate the family enterprise. He built a
modern plant near Parekklisia, 15 minutes north -
east of Lemesos and started production in 2004,
aiming for around 45,000 bottles annually.
Hadjiantonas is unique among Cyprus wineries
in using the fine Greek red grape “Agioritiko”
from their own vineyards. They also buy in Shiraz,
Chardonnay and other varieties from contracted
growers. You may try the Chardonnay which matures
for six months in oak barrels, and the Shiraz. There is
also the semi-sparkling, sweet wine made from the
Moscato variety.

88
WINERIES

KYPEROUNTA
50
WINERY
25532043, 99589612
Kyperounta, Lemesos

TSIAKKAS WINERY 30

25991080, 99567898
Pelendri, Lemesos

AES AMPELIS
WINERY
50
99651361, 99335358
Kalo Chorio

DOMAINE
HADJIANTONAS 60

25991199, 99553351
Parekklisia

TAVERNAS / RESTAURANTS

DIONYSOS RESTAURANT TO PEZEMA

(Rodon Hotel) 25521046, 99551381
25521201 Steliou Hadjipetri 50, Agros, Lemesos
Agros, Lemesos

89
90
91
92
93
94
95
96
Criteria set down by the Cyprus Tourism Organisation for the inclusion of
wineries and places of interest in the “Wine Routes” network

1. Must have the necessary licence for operation. 8. If a charge is made for tasting it must bear a
relation to the cost of the wines and services.
2. Must provide sign-posted directions from the
road to the reception point in the winery. 9. During the hours in which the winery is open
to visitors, it must provide suitable personnel,
3. Must provide adequate vehicle parking areas not
knowledgeable about wine-making, the products of
more than 200 metresfrom the winery.
the winery and wine service, to receive and inform
4. Must be maintained in excellent condition, with visitors in Greek or English.
cleanliness and proper maintenance the buildings,
10. The working hours and the seasons of operation
equipment and environment of the winery.
must be displayed.
5. Must provide separate toilet facilities for men and
11. The printed promotional materials and maps of
women and other approved amenities for health and
“Wine Routes” must be on show.
safety of visitors.
12. The winery must have a current insurance for
6. Must provide a room or rooms for wine tasting,
Public Liability.
inside or outside the winery, suitably equipped
for the whole process and comfort for visitors. If 13. Failure to observe the above conditions may
these facilities are not accessible by the disabled, result in a winery being withdrawn from the “Wine
alternative facilities should be available. Routes” programme.
7. Suitable tasting glasses must be provided with
facilities for washing, drying and storing them.
Cuspidors (receptacles for expelling wine during
tastings) must be provided.

1. Must have operational certification from CTO 4. Must have a certificate of attendance at CTO
(Cyprus Tourism Organisation) plus, following wine seminars concerning wine serving, wine
evaluation, approval of integration in the “Wine care and so forth.
Routes” network.
5. Taverna décor and furnishings should follow
2. Must include in its Menu and Wine List a as far as possible traditional Cypriot character.
representative selection of local wines. The
6. The menu must include a selection of
lists must also describe briefly the general
traditional Cypriot dishes.
characteristics of each wine in Greek and
English. 7. “Wine Routes” promotional materials and
literature must be displayed.
3. The taverna must observe the correct
serving procedures for the various types of 8. Deviation from the above criteria may result
wine and provide: in a winery being withdrawn from the “Wine
Routes” programme.
- Suitable glasses for red and white wine.
- Appropriate methods of bottle opening.
- Ice buckets for keeping cool sparkling, white
and rosé wines.
- Suitable places for the storage of wine.
- Serving of wine at the correct temperature.

97
Every year in September, at
the Wine Festival in Lemesos,
the spirit of Dionysos, the God
of Wine, is with us. Come, join
us -enjoy our wine and meet
our winemakers!
 ...explore them!

Come - tour, taste and enjoy!

Wine is not a new story for Cyprus. Recent archaeological excavations which have been
undertaken on the island have confirmed the thinking that this small tranche of earth has been
producing wine for almost 5000 years. The discoveries testify that Cyprus may well be the cradle
of wine development in the entire Mediterranean basin, from Greece, to Italy and France.

This historic panorama of continuous wine history that the island possesses is just one of
the reasons that make a trip to the wine villages such a fascinating prospect. A second important
reason is the wines of today - finding and getting to know our regional wineries, which are mostly
small and enchanting. Remember, though, it is important always to make contact first to arrange
your visit.

The third and best reason is the wine you will sample during your journeys along the “Wine
Routes” of Cyprus. From the traditional indigenous varieties of Mavro (for red and rosé wines) and
the white grape Xynisteri, plus the globally unique Koumandaria to well - known global varieties,
such as Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. Let’s take a wine walk.
The wine is waiting for us!

Production: Cyprus Tourism Organisation

Text: Patrick Skinner
Design: Appios & Metaxas Communications Ltd
Photography: CTO Archives
Printing: J.G Cassoulides & Son Ltd
10’ 2008

2
 The project has been implemented by the Cyprus Tourism Organisation
and co-funded 50% by the European Regional Development Fund
of the European Union (ERDF) and 50% by national resources.

The task of ERDF is:

«Helping reduse the gap betwwen development levels and living standards among the regions

and the extent to which least-favoured regions are lagging behind.

Helping redress the main regional imbalances in the Community by participating

in the development and structural adjustment of regions whose development is lagging

behind and the economic and social conversion of regions».

ISBN 978-9963-44-097-9

cheers along!