The Country Living Guide to Rural England – Cornwall published by Travel

Publishing in conjunction with Country Living Magazine, is one of a series of

county-based digital travel guides covering England which will be made available
to readers free of charge through the All About You website and through Travel
Publishing’s own websites.

The guides are based on the popular series of Country Living Guides to Rural
England published in printed form which can be purchased through the All About
You bookshop, Country Living Magazine, high street bookshops, internet retailers
and Travel Publishing.

This digital guide to Cornwall is published in PDF format which means that you
can browse the guide page by page or simply search for specific villages or towns
(see pages 4 and 5). You can also print off individual pages of your choice if you
are planning a visit to a particular area of Cornwall or, alternatively, the whole
of the digital guide.

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advertised in this guide all you need to do is click on the relevant website or
e-mail address contained in the advertisement.

We do hope you like using this version of the Country Living rural guide and that
it helps you enjoy exploring the wonderful county of Cornwall. We are always
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For people who want to explore the United Kingdom

Towns and Villages

CORNWALL
LOCATOR MAP
Please click on any of the towns and villages
listed below for information on that location.
Wooley West Putford Stibb Great
Morwenstow Cross Torrin
Bradworthy
Kilkhampton Altarnun pg 94 North Petherwin pg 117
Shebbe
Thornbury Blisland pg 92 Padstow pg 77
Bodmin pg 89 Pencarrow pg 76
Stratton
Bude Bodmin Moor pg 93 Pendeen pg 32
Holsworthy
Bolventor pg 92 Penhallow pg 36
Widemouth Bay Boscastle pg 83 Penryn pg 47
Whitstone Clawton
St Gennys
Bude pg 86 Penzance pg 7
Crackington Haven
Callington pg 116 Perranporth pg 36
Calstock pg 115 Polperro pg 107
Boscastle North Bratton Camborne pg 38 Polzeath pg 79
Petherwin Clovelly
Hallworthy
Camelford pg 83 Pool pg 38
Lewdo
Tintagel Davidstow
Launceston Charlestown pg 65 Port Isaac pg 82
Lifton Lydf
Treligga Crackington Haven pg 86 Porthcothan pg 76
Camelford
Port
Quin
Altarnun Cremyll pg 105 Porthcurno pg 30
Trelights
Milton Mary
Tavy
Delabole pg 83 Porthleven pg 60
St Minver Abbot
St Kew Bolventor Treburley Falmouth pg 39 Portscatho pg 48
Padstow Rock
Feock pg 63 Probus pg 70
Bray Tavistoc
Wadebridge
Temple
Shop
Gunnislake Fowey pg 108 Redruth pg 34
Trenance
CORNWALL Pensilva
Callington Godolphin Cross pg 26 Saltash pg 104
Bucklan
Mawgan Porth St Neot Monach Golant pg 111 Sancreed pg 31
Bodmin Gunnislake pg 114 St Agnes pg 35
St Mawgan Liskeard
St Columb Major Gweek pg 55 St Allen pg 37
Newquay Pillaton
Crantock Hayle pg 24 St Austell pg 64
Lostwithiel
Lane Duloe
Saltash Helford pg 53 St Blazey pg 64
PLYMO
St Newlyn East
Widegates Helston pg 55 St Buryan pg 29
St Blazey
Perranporth Carthew
Lanreath
Looe Kestle Mill pg 74 St Columb Major pg 73
Goonhavern Par Torpoint
Zelah
St Austell Bodinnick Seaton
Cremyll
Kilkhampton pg 89 St Germans pg 103
St Agnes Fowey Polperro Land’s End pg 30 St Ives pg 15
Probus Rame
St Ewe Pentewan Launcells pg 89 St Just-in-Penwith pg 32
Blackwater
Portreath Launceston pg 113 St Keverne pg 53
Truro Mevagissey
Liskeard pg 99 St Keyne pg 102
Redruth Goran Lizard pg 60 St Mawes pg 51
St Ives Hayle Camborne Veryan Looe pg 99 St Neot pg 97
Zennor
Pendeen Portscatho Lostwithiel pg 111 St Newlyn East pg 74
Wendron Marazion pg 26 Stratton pg 88
St Mawes
St Just Marazion Argal Mawnan Smith pg 53 Tintagel pg 81
Penzance Mawnan Falmouth Mevagissey pg 67 Torpoint pg 104
Helston
Sennen Gweek Smith Minions pg 95 Trewint pg 94
Mousehole
Porthleven Morwenstow pg 87 Truro pg 61
Land's End
Mousehole pg 28 Veryan pg 70
Porthcurno St Keverne
Mullion
Mullion pg 59 Wadebridge pg 75
Mullion Cove Mylor pg 47 Warleggan pg 97
Coverack
New Polzeath pg 79 Wendron pg 61
Lizard Newlyn pg 27 Whitsand Bay pg 105
Newquay pg 70 Zennor pg 14

A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks
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Cornwall Penzance building of the silver-domed Market House

CORNWALL
(1836), which now serves as a bank. In front
“I like Cornwall very much. It is not in Cornwall, you are never more than 20 miles A Market House A Egyptian House of this granite structure stands a statue to
England,” wrote DH Lawrence. That was from the sea. Maritime trade started early here A Union Hotel B Maritime Museum Penzance’s most famous son, Sir Humphry
more than 80 years ago, but the ancient Duchy – in the days of King Solomon, the Cornish Davy, the scientist best remembered for
B National Lighthouse Centre
of Cornwall remains stubbornly distinct from people were already trading tin with the inventing the miners’ safety lamp. Born in a
H Penlee House Art Gallery I Mazey Day nearby street, the son of a local woodcarver,
the rest of England, not just in its dramatic Phoenicians. Cornish eyes, it seems, were
and spectacular scenery, but in its strong Celtic always turned seawards rather than inland, and E Trengwainton Gardens Davy was one of the foremost chemists of the
heritage. The landscape is dotted with ancient the people’s cultural affinity was with the B Cornwall Geological Museum 19th century and, along with his contribution
monuments, crosses and holy wells, and Celtic diaspora of Ireland and Brittany rather to miners’ safety, he also founded both the
Penzance’s famous promenade, the longest in
ancient legends – especially those relating to than their mainland neighbours. Athenaeum Club and London Zoo.
Cornwall, runs from the open air art deco-
King Arthur and the Knights of the Round Added to this cultural separation was the Leading downhill from the Market House is
style Jubilee Swimming Pool around the broad
Table – appear to have been hot-wired into the county’s physical distance from major centres the town’s most interesting area, Chapel Street.
curve of Mount’s Bay. Just along from the
Cornish psyche. of population. Even today, Cornwall’s Along this thoroughfare stands the exotic
Jubilee Pool are the harbour and docks, still
Cornish people have been recognised as a population of around 500,000 is less than that Egyptian House, created from two cottages
busy with fishing and pleasure boats. The
separate identity by the Commission for Racial of the city of Bristol. There’s not a single mile in the 1830s by John Lavin, to entice
town’s main street is Market Jew Street whose
Equality and they have their own distinctive of motorway within its boundaries and long customers into his shop. Although the
curious name is believed to be a corruption of
and attractive dialect. According to the stretches of the main through route, the A30 designer of the magnificent façade is
the old Cornish Marghas Yow, meaning
Cornish Language Board, around 2600 people from Penzance to London, are still single unknown, it is believed to have been inspired
Thursday Market. This busy shopping area
still speak Kernuack, the original language of carriageway. by the Egyptian Hall in Piccadilly, London.
leads gently uphill to the handsome classical
the peninsula. A firm in Helston occasionally It was this isolation – and the luminous
publishes books in the ancient language and light of the area – that attracted major artists
Kernuack has been recognised as a living to the little seaside resort of St Ives, which
IRISS
language by the European Commission. now boasts a world-class art gallery in the Tate 66 Chapel Street, Penzance,
Elements of Kernuack still survive in the St Ives. More recently, an abandoned china Cornwall TR18 4AD
names of Cornish places and people – as Sir clay pit has been transformed into what has Tel: 01736 366568
Walter Scott put it: “By Tre-, Pol- and Pen- , been described as the Eighth Wonder of the e-mail: sales@iriss.co.uk
You shall know all true Cornishmen.” website: www.iriss.co.uk
World, the inspired – and phenomenally
The historic street in which Iriss stands is
One simple fact about the county helps to successful – Eden Project, whose enormous
one of the most interesting in Penzance
explain its distinct character. Wherever you are bio-spheres celebrate the complex relationship and has not been significantly changed
between plants, people and resources. since the mid 19 th century. It is now a
Elsewhere, the county boasts the third fascinating area to explore with a wealth
of independent and specialist shops and
largest natural harbour in the world, Falmouth; a good selection of restaurants, coffee
acres of glorious gardens such as the Lost shops and public houses.
Gardens of Heligan; King Arthur’s legendary Iriss is just one of the many independent shops worth a look along the main thoroughfare from
fortress at Tintagel, and other medieval castles the harbour to the town centre. Owned by Mariarosa Martin, this delightful shop is a fantastic find
for creative people fond of knitting and other crafts. Iriss specialises in rug making equipment,
at St Mawes, Falmouth and St Michael’s knitting wool, silk painting, tapestry and kneedle work. It is popular with locals and visitors to the
Mount; the wonderful Elizabethan mansion of area and for those who don’t have the pleasure of having this shop on their doorstep Mariarosa has
Prideaux Place at Padstow; and, of course, a comprehensive website, where she sells products online.
Land’s End where the granite bulwark Iriss can be found in a four-storey building, which dates back to the 1800s and was originally
overlooks the Atlantic waters beneath which run by a tailor. The present shop was established in 1985 and is definitely worth a look for keen
Tintagel Castle Remains crafters.
lies the legendary Land of Lyonesse.
A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks
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mainland England of the victory of Trafalgar

THE ALVERTON GALLERY

CORNWALL
and the death of Lord Nelson. Chapel Street
5 Alverton Street, Penzance, was also the childhood home of Marie
Cornwall TR18 2QW Branwell, the mother of the Brontë sisters.
Tel: 01736 351668
e-mail: info@thealvertongallery.co.uk For centuries, a remote market town that
website: www.thealvertongallery.co.uk made its living from fishing, mining and
Located in the heart of Penzance with plenty of
smuggling, Penzance today is popular with
parking nearby, The Alverton Gallery is a gallery holidaymakers as well as being the ferry port
with a difference for the discerning art lover. The for the Isles of Scilly. Along with its near
large picture window frontage invites the passer-
neighbours, Newlyn and Mousehole, Penzance
by to pause, and then step inside the spacious
gallery where they will be welcome to watch the was sacked by the Spanish in 1595. Having
resident artists at work, ask questions and supported the Royalist cause during the Civil
sample the coffee and biscuits while you browse! War, it suffered the same fate again less than
The owners, Diana and Tim Wayne, are both
makers themselves. Diana works at her etching
60 years later. A major port in the 19th
press or with screen prints; Tim exhibits his own century for the export of tin, the fortunes of
woodcut prints and ceramic sculpture in the Penzance were transformed by the railway’s
gallery. arrival in 1859. Not only could the direct
Their working studio gallery offers an unusual
despatch of early flowers, vegetables and
blend of contemporary fine art, featuring artists
and makers predominantly from West Cornwall. locally caught fish to the rest of Britain be
There’s an ever-changing wall display of west Egyptian House undertaken, but the influx of holidaymakers
country and other artists with a variety of boosted the town’s fledgling tourist industry.
landscape, seascape and figurative paintings in
oil, acrylic, watercolour and mixed media. Also The house is now owned by the Landmark Penzance celebrates its long-standing links
on display are original wood engravings, Trust and its upper floors can be rented for with the sea at the Maritime Museum, which
etchings, screen prints and lithographs. Then holiday stays. houses a fascinating collection of artefacts
there’s the glassware, featuring designer and
hand-formed pieces using fused techniques and Opposite this splendid building stands the that illustrate the ferocity of the waters along
decals. Union Hotel whose Georgian façade hides an this stretch of coast. The museum’s interior
The jewellery exhibits include designer and impressive Elizabethan interior. From the re-creates an 18th-century four-deck man-of-
hand-made necklaces, bracelets, rings and Minstrel’s Gallery in the sumptuous dining war, complete with creaking floorboards, and
brooches in silver with gold, copper and semi
precious stones, along with Venetian murano room was made the first announcement in contains displays of pieces of eight and other
glass and beaded jewellery. The gold items
include new and second-hand necklaces,
bracelets, brooches and rings. Another section of
GLENCREE HOUSE
the gallery is devoted to contemporary 2 Mennaye Road, Penzance, Cornwall TR18 4NG
decorative, sculptural and everyday pottery, Tel: 01736 362026 e-mail: stay@glencreehouse.co.uk
ranging from traditional tableware to unusual, unique and experimental ceramics, using stoneware,
website: www.glencreehouse.co.uk
porcelain, terracotta and crank clays.
The gallery also features sculptures - unique pieces carved and hand moulded from bronze, Glencree is a fine Victorian granite house established as a
wood, clay and marble and other stone. Items in wood include turned wooden bowls and plates, hotel back in 1946. With its wealth of character and
keepsake and jewellery boxes in exotic, native and recycled wood. many original features, it echoes the romance of
yesteryear, combined with the comforts of today. There
Then there are the objets d’art, the French term for the eclectic mix of bygones, collectables
are 7 spacious, recently refurbished guest rooms, all with
and pieces of past times that intrigue us. These might include treen, pewter, sculpture, crockery,
en-suite or private facilities - one with a four-poster bed and some with sea views. Lynsey and
figurines and boxes.
Andrew, your friendly & welcoming hosts, will help get your day off to a great start with breakfast
With so much on display and of such quality, this outstanding gallery should not be missed. It using the best of local, organic and/or fairtrade produce.
is open from 9.30am to 5pm, Monday to Saturday.

A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks
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BOHEMIA GUILD HOTEL PENZANCE

CORNWALL
54 Market Jew Street, Penzance, Cornwall TR18 2HZ Britons Hill, Penzance, Cornwall TR18 3AE
Tel: 01736 363919 Tel: 01736 363117 Fax: 01736 350970
e-mail: bohemiaguild@aol.com e-mail: enquiries@hotelpenzance.com
website: www.bohemiaguild.com website: www.hotelpenzance.com
Sometimes in life you are lucky enough to find a special
‘A Gallery with a Conscience’ place that forces you to leave behind the hectic pace
and endless schedules of modern life, enabling you to
Bohemia Art, Craft and Re-Makers Guild is as much about the slow down and relax. Hotel Penzance provides just such
people as their art. It opened its doors in November 2009 on a place, converted from two Edwardian merchant’s houses
Market Jew Street, opposite the railway station. Bohemia Guild in the 1920s. All rooms retain their original proportions and
exhibits for sale the functional and decorative work of a wide atmosphere. Its location is set in a Mediterranean style
cross-section of Cornish and West Country makers of all ages. garden around an outdoor heated pool perched high above
Works on display come from people who are just starting out or the rooftops of Penzance overlooking the waterfront activity
simply enjoy the act of creating beautiful things, and from others of the harbour and Mounts Bay.
who have successfully made their life’s work in art or come to art
late in life. Together, Bohemia Guild and these makers are united The warmth of the hotel is enhanced by the very special
in their quest for and commitment to the highest standards of team of people who welcome you, never pompous always
work in all its diverse forms, both decorative and practical. genuinely caring nothing is ever too much trouble.
The range is truly amazing, from painting, prints and
photography to ceramics, pottery, wood turning and carving, A superb base for exploring; Enjoy the rugged cliffs of Land’s End and the surrounding coastal
children’s crafts, toys and clothing, gloves, scarves, booties, paths. Learn to surf at Sennen Cove or relax on Britain’s best blue flag beaches. Watch open-air
glass-making and stained glass, découpage, bags and baskets, performances at the Minnack Theatre. Swim in the Art-deco Jubilee Pool. Take boat trips from
textiles, jewellery and much more. The gallery places particular Penzance Marina. Explore artisan Chapel Street and the town’s many galleries – so much to do!
emphasis on re-making, whether it is in the people who have left
previous careers and re-invented themselves as artists, or in the
objects they have taken from the past to re-create something new THE BAY RESTAURANT (Two Rosettes) combines the very finest cuisine with an excellent wine
and out of the ordinary. cellar, welcoming residents and non-residents alike.
Art is sometimes born out of a case of ‘needs must’. Art in
Adversity is another aspect which the Bohemia Guild is Under the guidance of Head Chef Ben Reeves, the restaurant offers a seasonally changing menu,
enthusiastic about. Some of the local fishermen are a case in taking advantage of immediate local availability. By doing this it offers you the best of regional
point. Many have found themselves unable to work due to ill produce in its peak condition... Fish from Newlyn and St Ives…meats, poultry and dairy produce
health, accidents or changed and reduced circumstances. Turning from local farms… vegetables and herbs grown especially and wild produce foraged from the
their heads from fish to art has given many a new meaning and shores and woodlands.
purpose in life; it is hoped that Bohemia Guild can help those in
adversity to achieve an alternative income stream as well. Ben is always quick to instil his
A gallery with a conscience, Bohemia Guild not only tells the values in his brigade; ‘we have to
story behind the art but also ensures that those exhibiting gain become far more aware of our
the maximum financial benefits from the sale of their work. responsibilities to the environment,
Business hours are 10am to 5pm Monday to Saturday. especially sustainability and
provenance. Great ingredients are
necessary to the creation of great
food, so we need to ensure that
what we are using today will be
sustainable and therefore available
for the chefs of tomorrow and the
future. As a guiding principal,
searching for quality, always begins
closest to home’

A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks
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12 The Countr y Living Guide to R ural England - Cor nwall 13

Number 36 Museum. The county’s long association with

CORNWALL
the mining industry is highlighted at the
Cornwall Geological Museum, which has
No. 4 Causeway Head, Penzance, Cornwall TR18 2SN some intriguing fossil displays and surveys 400
Tel: 01736 367590 e-mail: andrea@no36.fsworldco.uk
million years of Cornwall’s past.
Number 36 is located in the old pedestrianised street of Causeway Head with its Victorian cinema,
speciality shops, galleries and eateries that spill out onto the street in summer. This fashion, At the end of June, the town celebrates
accessories and gift shop was established in 2007 by Andrea Simmons who has many years Mazey Day, a revival of the St John’s Eve
experience in the trade. The shop occupies a traditional building of Penzance stone with a huge celebrations abolished in Queen Victoria’s
picture window displaying samples of the colourful and vibrant stock available inside. Here, there is
reign. Mazey Day is now the climax of
clothing appealing to all ages and purses, with a large range of sizes. There are some wonderful
accessories on offer, especially the huge selection of scarves which are personally sourced by Harbour Lighthouse Golowan Week and the Golowan Festival
Andrea directly from which she visits twice yearly. The extensive range of jewellery includes some when large numbers of visitors join local
items designed and made by Andrea herself. Also on sale is an intriguing selection of quality gifts, revellers to take part in the music, dance,
artefacts recovered from wrecks off the Isles
including some novelty items such as bath bombs in the shape of cup cakes. Finally, there’s a
range of crockery and a tasteful selection of cards, including humorous ones. of Scilly. drama and pageantry.
Down at the harbour, at the National Just to the northwest of the town, and
Lighthouse Centre, the story of lighthouse close to the village of Madron, lie
keeping is told. Opened by Prince Andrew in Trengwainton Gardens, the National Trust-
1991, the centre has assembled what is the owned woodland gardens that are known for
probably the largest and finest collection of their spring-flowering shrubs, their exotic
lighthouse equipment in the world. Visitors trees and the walled garden that contains
can operate the 100-year-old apparatus, blast plants that cannot be grown in the open
off a foghorn, or just sit back and watch a anywhere else in the country. The walled
video about the history of the lighthouse. garden was built in the early 19th century by
Elsewhere in Penzance, local history and the the then owner Sir Rose Price, the son of a
work of the Newlyn School of artists can be wealthy Jamaican sugar planter.
seen at the Penlee House Art Gallery and Two miles west of Penzance, Trewidden

UNION HOTEL
Chapel Street, Penzance, Cornwall TR18 4AE
Tel: 01736 362319
e-mail: enquiries@unionhotel.co.uk
website: www.unionhotel.co.uk
During its long history, the Union Hotel has provided
accommodation for Royalty, Prime Ministers and some great
artistes. The hotel occupies a prime position in the centre of
Penzance, in what is considered to be one of the finest streets in
Cornwall. It has a bar offering a tempting bar menu and a Theatre
Bar Restaurant serving superb food cooked to your liking by a
qualified chef. In the en suite bedrooms you’ll find crisp white
sheets, fluffy white towels, direct dial telephone, colour TV,
hospitality tray and hair dryer. Breakfast is served in an impressive room that was once the town’s
Assembly Rooms and in which the death of Nelson at Trafalgar was first proclaimed in England.
There are two sister hotels - The White Hart Hotel in Hayle and the Angel Hotel in Helston (see
pages 22 and 53).

A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks
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Gardens is one of the finest informal gardens shop? Will they give me indigestion?” dilapidated remains of the Neolithic chamber rooms topped with thatch or turf. Eight of

CORNWALL
in Cornwall and contains one of the best For an insight into the history of Zennor tomb, Zennor Quoit, believed to be some these have survived.
collections of camellias in the country. and the surrounding area, the Wayside Folk 4500 years old. One of many ancient
Museum is a unique private museum, monuments in the area, the tomb has a huge
St Ives
Around Penzance founded in 1935, that covers every aspect of
life in Zennor and district from 3000BC to the
capstone that was once supported on five
broad uprights. 7 miles NE of Penzance on the A3074
1930s. On display are waterwheels, a A couple of miles to the south of Zennor,
ZENNOR H Tate St Ives Gallery
millhouse, a wheelwright’s and blacksmith’s on a windy hillside, stands Chysauster
5½ miles N of Penzance on the B3306 H Barbara Hepworth Sculpture Garden
premises, a miller’s cottage with kitchen and Ancient Village (English Heritage), the best-
A Wayside Folk Museum C Zennor Quoit parlour, and exhibits on tin mining. The preserved prehistoric settlement in the H Leach Gallery B St Ives Museum
C Chysauster Ancient Village collection has more than 5000 items in southwest. This Romano-Cornish village, built A Knill Steeple I St Ives Festival
16 display areas and includes an extensive around 2000 years ago, has one of the oldest E Trewyn Subtropical Gardens D Carbis Bay
This delightful ancient village, situated
collection of photographs and information on identifiable streets in the country. The site was
between moorland and coastal cliffs, shows This lovely old fishing town with its maze of
people who have lived in the area. only discovered during archaeological
evidence of Bronze Age settlers. It also has a narrow streets and picturesque harbour, has
Tin mining is also referred to in the name excavations in the 1860s. Villagers here were
12th-century church, famous for its carved been showered with various awards in the past
of the local inn, The Tinners Arms, whose farmers, as cattle sheds have been unearthed.
bench end depicting a mermaid holding a few years. It won the Gold Award in the
name DH Lawrence borrowed as the title of They also worked tin beside the nearby stream.
comb and mirror. A local legend tells of a international Entente Florale, has made off
a short story. Lawrence spent many hours at Their housing consisted of stone-walled
mysterious young maiden who was drawn to with more Britain in Bloom top prizes than any
this pub while living in the village with his homesteads, each with an open central
the church by the beautiful singing of a other UK town, and a recent University of
wife Frieda during World War One. It was courtyard surrounded by several circular living
chorister, the churchwarden’s son Matthew
Trewhella. An enchanting singer herself, the during his stay here, under police
maiden lured Matthew down to nearby surveillance, that Lawrence wrote Women in I SHOULD COCO
Pendour Cove where he disappeared. On Love. However, his pacifist tendencies and 39 Fore Street, St Ives, Cornwall TR26 1HE
warm summer evenings, it is said that their Frieda’s German heritage (her cousin was the Tel: 01736 798756 / 07811 647738
voices can be heard rising from the waves. flying ace the Red Baron von Richthofen) website: www.ishouldcoco.co.uk
caused them to be ‘moved on’ in October Founded in 2009, I Should Coco is a unique little
By the porch in the church is a memorial to
1917. Lawrence refers to the episode in his chocolate boutique overlooking the harbour in St
John Davey, who died in 1891, stating that he Ives. This beautifully light and airy shop has a
semi-autobiographical novel Kangaroo (1923).
was the last person to have any great fascinating glass wall to the workshop, where you
knowledge of the native Cornish language To the southeast of the village are the can watch the chocolatiers at work. The smell in the shop is wonderful, and there are always
tasters of the work in progress. All the products are hand made on site by a team of artisan
Kernuack. It is said that he remained chocolatiers, headed up by founders Andrea and Kevin Parsons. Fresh cream truffles – a treat very
familiar with the language by speaking it difficult to find these days – are a speciality and the team make full use of the wonderful
to his cat. There has recently been a ingredients available on their doorstep to make these sublime creations, including Cornish Cream;
revival of interest in Kernuack, and Honey; Strawberries; Raspberries; Elderflowers and even Cornish Seasalt ! For the more
adventurous, Chilli and Tequila truffles are a revelation not to be missed.
visitors to Cornwall who chance upon a
Other exciting original products include a range of single origin chocolates from Peru; Mexico;
Kernuack speaker might impress him by Madagascar and many other exotic locations and award winning infused chocolates such as
asking, “Plema’n diwotti?” and with any Nutmeg and Vanilla and Habanero chilli pepper. Bespoke chocolate creations can be undertaken on
luck directed to the nearest pub. Another commission for Birthdays , Weddings and other special occasions and these can range from a
personal message to a picture hand painted in chocolate.
useful entry in the Cornish phrasebook is,
Its a very creative atmosphere but just to help things along, original works by local artists have
“Fatell yu an pastyon yn gwerthji ma? A been used on the wrappers and boxes and adorn the walls of the shop. Not surprisingly this
wrons I ri dhymn drog goans?” which unique enterprise has garnered many awards including most recently 4 Gold Awards from the
means, “What are the pasties like in this Wayside Folk Museum Taste of the West. With undoubtedly many more to follow!

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16 The Countr y Living Guide to R ural England - Cor nwall 17

Surrey survey, using a complex formula to Tate St Ives

THE SPRUCE TREE

CORNWALL
decide which were the best beach destinations
11 Fore Street, St Ives, Cornwall TR26 1AB globally, placed St Ives at the top of its UK list,
Tel: 01736 794713 and fourth in the world. An organisation called
e-mail: thesprucetree@chessbroadband.co.uk
The Most Beautiful Bays in the World has
Located in St Ives main cobbled street with a wide variety of
declared St Ives Bay one of its select few, on a
interesting shops, The Spruce Tree specialises in quality items
made of wood, glass and ceramic. Many of these items are par with Caribbean, Asian and American beauty
individually sourced from around the world. In the shop’s spots. Another two of St Ives’ five sandy
unusually shaped semi-circular display window is a range of beaches have also qualified for a Blue Flag
Moorcroft Pottery from Burslem in Staffordshire and a selection
of items to be found inside. The ground and first floor galleries
award. And in 2010 the town received the Coast
have beautifully displayed wooden pieces from around the Award as Best Family Holiday Destination.
world. There are hand-carved, hand-painted wooden figures for Culturally, the town is famous worldwide as
Nativity scenes from Italy, Noah’s Arks and other wooden gifts are sourced in the USA, while the
range of coloured boxes come from a co-operative in Columbia. The wooden vases made of lignum
an artists’ colony. They were drawn here by the
vitae - the ‘tree of life’ are from Bolivia while the wooden puzzle trees are sourced in Worcester, special quality of the light – ultra-violet
England. Lladro porcelain from Spain is another well known product available in this shop. radiation is greater here than anywhere else in
This shop prides itself on having highly unusual items, Swedish glass sculptures and glass the country. JMW Turner was the first major
flowers from Wales being good examples. It also supports local artists and craftsmen, the
hallmarked solid silver jewellery coming from a nearby village.
artist to arrive, in 1811, to be followed in later
The Spruce Tree is also a Steiff Club Store with a good selection of Steiff and other collectable decades by Whistler, Sickert, McNeill, Leach. Art still dominates and, along with the
teddy bears. Munnings, Ben Nicholson, the sculptor numerous private galleries, there is the Tate St
Barbara Hepworth and the potter Bernard Ives Gallery where the work of 20th-century

KUIAMA CRAFTS
42 Fore Street, St Ives,
Cornwall TR26 1HE
Tel: 01736 798009
website: www.kuiamacrafts.com
Kuiama Crafts owned and run by Heidi
Kuiama Moore, is a vibrant, friendly and
informative gift and lifestyle shop on the
main shopping street in St Ives. Opening in
2005 selling a selection of unique gifts,
they have since expanded the range year by
year with handcrafted gifts from home and
world sources. The range includes interiors
with a nautical theme; hand woven and
dyed silk accessories from a Fairtrade
source in an exciting spectrum of colours; and Dunoon Ceramics Fine Bone China mugs. Kuiama
Crafts also stock an expanding range of hand knitting yarns and accessories, in particular a
Fairtrade range by Manos del Uruguay in pure wool, silk, cashmere and merino blends, all hand
dyed. There are also available yarns in alpaca, cotton and speciality yarns for sock and lace
knitting. Heidi is a trained artist and has a passion for all textiles, in particular felt making. The
shop always carries a selection of her unique hand felted and embroidered pictures of local
landscape scenes. Heidi’s mother Norma is a very talented quilter producing lovely soft furnishings
and interior decorations that will enhance any home, for any time of the year. Styles include
vintage, nautical, traditional and contemporary Christmas.

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18 The Countr y Living Guide to R ural England - Cor nwall 19

FORE STREET DELI TREMAYNE APPLIED ARTS

CORNWALL
30a Fore Street, St Ives, Cornwall TR26 1HE Street an Pol, St Ives, Cornwall TR26 2DS
Tel: 01736 794578 Tel: 01736 797779
e-mail: info@forestdeli.co.uk e-mail: tonkinson@btinternet.com
website: www.forestdeli.co.uk Tremayne Applied Arts was founded in 1997
There has been a delicatessen here on the main shopping and is still run with great knowledge and
street for many years, but since being acquired by Peter enthusiasm by owners Roger and Eileen
Williams in 2008 the Fore St Deli has gone from strength Tonkinson. Set on a narrow street right in
to strength. An eyecatching array of fresh fruit and the heart of the artistic community of St
vegetables outside the shop tempts shoppers into a world Ives, their gallery is housed in a Victorian/
of fine food, from meat, poultry, fish and shellfish to Edwardian building that was originally a
cheese and dairy, cooked and cured meats, chutneys, bakery. Two of its three rooms still have the
pickles and preserves, oils and vinegars, chocolates, original slate floors, while the third room
beers, wines, spirits and fruit juices. opens out onto a pleasant little slate-paved
The owner is dedicated to sourcing and promoting the courtyard. It’s a lovely setting for a gallery
best of local produce, so naturally Cornwall’s specialities where you might be able to find original
are all to be found – honey, fairings, Yarg, cheddar, works for sale by some of the famous
camembert, cider, sea salt and many more. The Deli also artists who made St Ives their home.
has touches that really set it apart from the norm: they Visitors are often surprised by some of
marinade and flavour olives and keep an oil drum from the artists whose work can be found at
which customers can draw the finest olive oil into their Tremayne Applied Arts. The renowned and
own bottles. Fore St Deli is also a haven for those with an influential potter Bernard Leach is one such
intolerance for gluten, and Peter has spent many years name, alongside his wife Janet Leach and
perfecting his range of gluten-free delights. He has found Bernard’s son, David, who made up a St
the ideal base in Doves Farm self-raising flour, and the Ives pottery dynasty. Ben Nicholson and
selection of cakes includes banana, chocolate, lemon Patrick Heron are two more of the famous
polenta and coconut St Clements. He also prepares a names associated with St Ives, and their
range of frozen ready meals, including pies and lasagne. work can be found in the Tremayne Gallery
The Deli offers a range of Welcome Packs (including too. The work of Dame Lucie Rie, whose
ready assembled or pick and mix) and Hampers that make pottery is on display in places such as the
wonderful gifts – the Luxury Hamper contains Camel Museum of Modern Art in New York, can
Valley ‘Champagne’, Worthy Farm Cheddar, Cornish also be found at Tremayne, as can the
Camembert, Bath Oliver biscuits, Crellow chutney and abstract pioneer Victor Pasmore.
chocolates. The gallery doesn’t only show local
artists, though, as work by international
names including Lalique, Braque, Tapio
THE ORGANIC PANDA Wirkkala and Le Corbusier can also be seen
1 Pendolver Terrace, St Ives, Cornwall TR26 2EL here in what is almost a Design Museum as
Tel: 01736 793890 much as an art gallery. The owners like to
cover all the major design periods of the
In the same ownership as Fore St Deli, the Organic Panda 20th and 21st centuries, from the Arts and
is a unique and totally delightful B&B and Art Gallery in an Crafts Movement at the turn of the 20th
elegant Victorian house a short walk from the Blue Flag century through to the present day. You’re
Porthminster Beach. The three bedrooms are stylish and therefore likely to find work here from the 1920s and 1930s, and the 1950s-1970s, in all areas of
contemporary, designed on environmental principles, with the Applied Arts.
eco-friendly materials, wool carpets and organic cotton
Tremayne displays and sells not just paintings, prints and ceramics, but also furniture,
bedding. Also on the premises is a vibrant art exhibition
sculptures, glassware and fabrics too. If you don’t find what you’re looking for then Roger and
with original artwork for sale by Peter Williams and
Eileen will be happy to help you try to find it through their search service. As well as their regular
others.
displays there are also occasional exhibitions, often coinciding with the St Ives September Festival,
though any time is a good time to visit this exceptional gallery.

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20 The Countr y Living Guide to R ural England - Cor nwall 21

painters and sculptors is permanently on three-quarters of a mile west of the town

GAUGE GALLERY

CORNWALL
display in a rather austere three-storey building centre. The original workshops Leach used
26 Fore Street, St Ives, Cornwall TR26 1HE
backing directly into the cliff face. Opened in are still in place, and there’s also an exhibition
Tel: 01736 795107
e-mail: info@gaugegallery.co.uk website: www.gaugegallery.co.uk 1993, the gallery offers a unique introduction room, a gallery of contemporary work, and a
In light, spacious premises the Gauge Gallery exhibits the work of world-renowned jewellers,
to contemporary and modern art, and many shop. A new purpose-built studio houses a
showcasing original works rarely seen outside prestigious galleries in the world’s capitals and major works can be viewed in the surroundings that number of resident ‘start-up’ potters and
cities. Many of the artists whose work cab be seen here have exhibited at the Victoria & Albert inspired them. student potters who make the new range of
Museum and the British Museum in London and in Museums in Tokyo and New York – so quality is
very much to the fore in this amazing place. Clients of the gallery have a unique opportunity to The Tate also manages the Barbara high-fired Leach tableware designed by Lead
become totally involved in designing and creating their own pieces of jewellery with the owner and Hepworth Sculpture Garden and Museum Potter Jack Doherty.
in-house silversmith/jeweller Ed Wilson. He is always on hand and ready with his extensive at Trewyn Studio where she both lived and The original settlement at St Ives takes its
knowledge and experience to assist with commissions or to help clients choose just the right piece
from the wonderful items on display. Ed’s interest in design began while studying as an worked until her tragic death in a fire in 1975. name from the 6th-century missionary St Ia,
architectural student, during which time he started making his own jewellery. In 2002 he began an Sculptures in bronze, stone and wood are on who is said to have landed here from Ireland
apprenticeship with Timothy (Tim) Lukes, a silversmith based in St Ives. Ed’s work is greatly
display in the museum and garden, along on an ivy leaf. The 15th-century parish church
influenced by the environment – the seasons, the energy of the sea, the ebb and flow of the tide,
all symbolising contrast and movement. His pieces display an elegant simplicity; each piece is with paintings, drawings and archive material. bears her name along with those of the two
unique, handcrafted and finished to the highest quality. Many of her other works are exhibited in the fishermen Apostles, St Peter and St Andrew.
Tim Lukes learned his trade at Garrard’s in London, then gained experience in many workshops Tate St Ives Gallery; still more are dotted
in the UK and overseas before returning to St Ives in 1994 to his original interest, design. His
One of the most important pilchard fishing
beautifully crafted silverware and designer jewellery is widely admired and he is always ready to around the town. centres in Cornwall until the early 20th
discuss commissions, visualising ideas with clients and recreating them in precious metals. The famous potter, Bernard Leach, is century, St Ives holds a record dating back to
Paul Spurgeon is an inventive, award-winning designer/goldsmith known for his imaginative use celebrated at the Leach Gallery housed in 1868 for the greatest number of fish caught in
of platinum and white and natural coloured diamonds, with minute attention to detail evident in his
elegant, stylish work, which is inspired by the visual arts, literature and nature. his former studio at Higher Stennack, about a single seine net. Known locally as The
Shaun Leane is a Member of the Institute of Professional Goldsmiths and a multiple winner of Island, St Ives Head is home to a Huer’s Hut,
UK Designer of the Year. After spending many years in a traditional workshop with a focus on from where a lookout would scan the sea
diamond mounting and antique restoration he started his own business in 1999. he works at his
bench as often as possible, creating bespoke pieces and iconic catwalk pieces in collaboration with looking for shoals of pilchards. A local
leading fashion designers. speciality, heavy or hevva cake, was traditionally
The craftsmen described above are just four of the major personalities linked with the Gauge made for the seiners on their return from
Gallery. The Gallery’s excellent website provides profiles and examples of the work of many other
designer/artists.
fishing. As well as providing shelter for the
fishing fleet, the harbour was also developed
for exporting locally mined ores and minerals.
The town’s two industries led the labyrinthine
narrow streets to become divided into two
communities: ‘Downalong’ where the fishing
families lived and ‘Upalong’, the home of the
mining families.
Housed in a building that once belonged to
a mine, St Ives Museum displays a range of
artefacts chronicling the natural, industrial and
maritime history of the area. There is also a
display dedicated to John Knill, mayor of the
town in the 18th century. A customs officer by
profession, he was also rumoured to be an
Barbara Hepworth Sculpture Garden energetic smuggler. Certainly one of the

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22 The Countr y Living Guide to R ural England - Cor nwall 23

A more conventional
THE LEACH POTTERY

CORNWALL
celebration is the St Ives
Higher Stennack, St Ives, Cornwall TR26 2HE Festival in September each year
Tel: 01736 799703 which brings together musicians,
e-mail: office@leachpottery.com
artists and writers of the highest
website: www.leachpottery.com
calibre from all over the country,
The year 2010 marks the 90th anniversary of the founding of The Leach
Pottery which was established in 1820 by Bernard Leach and Shoji Hamada.
and beyond.
One of the great figures of 20th century art, Leach played a crucial If you feel the need to escape
pioneering role in creating an identity for artist potters in Britain and around the busy streets, seek out
the world. In March 2008, a £1.7 million capital project was
completed, giving new life to the Leach Pottery and enabling it to
Trewyn Subtropical Gardens,
set up in production and open its doors to the public once again. just off the High Street. Wooden
The Leach Pottery is managed by the Bernard Leach (St Ives) Porthmeor Beach, St Ives sculptures of musicians stand on
Trust whose primary purposes of the trust are to advance the lawns surrounded by banana
education of the public in the life and work of Bernard Leach and town’s most memorable citizens, he built the
his circle, and the development of studio pottery, and to provide
trees and other exotic flora.
training in the art, craft and making of pottery. Knill Steeple monument to the south of the It is not only artists who have been inspired
At the Trust’s premises in Higher Stennack, visitors can see the town to be his mausoleum, but it also served by the beautiful surroundings of St Ives:
Old Workshop where pots were thrown, decorated and glazed. The to guide ships carrying contraband safely to Virginia Woolf recaptures the happy mood of
fireplace where Bernard used to hold impromptu debates on the the shore. Knill left a bequest to the town so
nature of craft pottery is still in place. Up to 8 people would work in her childhood holidays here in her novel To the
here. The Clay Room is where the clay was prepared and recycled.
that every five years, a ceremony would be Lighthouse; and Rosamunde Pilcher, famous for
Here you can see the clay mixers, the pug machine for creating held at the Steeple when 10 girls and two her books set in Cornwall, was born near the
‘slugs’ of clay for using on the wheel, and the bins for the powdered widows would first sing the 100th Psalm and town in 1924.
clay and glaze materials. Also on display are the Leach Wheels, were
then dance around the monument for Just to the southeast of the town, easy to
designed by David Leach and Dicon Nance. The flywheel is driven by
the potter’s foot via a cranked pedal and provides 15 minutes to the tune of a fiddler. For reach on foot and a great favourite with
steady momentum to the wheel head. performing this strange ceremony the families, lies the sheltered beach of Carbis
The Kiln Room, once open-sided to the south, participants received 10 shillings (50p). The
was the first building on the site. The climbing kiln,
Bay where various water sports are also
custom is still maintained - the next will take available. To the west of St Ives is a wonderful
built in 1923, was the first of its kind in the western
world and was in use until the 1970s. place on 25 July 2011. and remote coastline of coves, cliffs and
A new building hosts annually changing
exhibitions, examining the Leach legacy and the
history of studio pottery. Also new is the production Paradise Park
studio where recently established potters
16 Trelissick Road, Hayle, Cornwall TR27 4HB
and ceramics students work under the
guidance of lead potter Jack Doherty. Tel: 01736 753365
Housed in the old cottage is the Gallery website: www.paradisepark.org.uk
where the selling exhibition Cornwall’s top wildlife sanctuary with Jungle Barn play
changes regularly and
features the best of British Children love the penguins, fun farm and quiz, for others the
and international craft exotic gardens make their day – and everyone loves Paradise
pottery. Park’s feeding and free-flying shows. Colourful birds include
Finally, the shop provides many rare and beautiful parrots, flamingos, red-billed Cornish
the opportunity to buy choughs and toucans, plus owls and kookaburras. Also cute alpacas, two kinds of otters and
‘Standard Ware’ created on
red pandas - with many species in conservation breeding schemes.
site, and to see work from
featured Cornish potters. Now our brilliant new indoor play centre with challenging soft play, giant slides plus
toddler’s area and café makes Paradise Park the best in the west – whatever the weather!

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headland that provides a wealth of wildlife Nightingale Graham who set up her own
WILDLIFE WOOD CARVER

CORNWALL
and archaeological interest. Following the beauty parlour on New York’s Fifth Avenue
network of footpaths from St Ives to under the name Elizabeth Arden. Steppy Downs Studio, 13 St Erth Hill, Hayle, Cornwall TR27 6EX
Pendeen, walkers can discover small wooded Tel: 01736 753342 / 07855 602183
The Hayle estuary and sands around the
website: www.wildlifewoodcarver.co.uk
valleys, rich bogs, old industrial remains and town are an ornithologist’s delight. Some of
Established more than twenty years ago,
prehistoric features such as the cliff castles at the world’s rarest and most beautiful birds can Wildlife Wood Carver was the brainchild
Gurnard’s Head and Bosigran. be seen at Paradise Park (see panel on of Roy Hewson who, at his workplace
page 21), a leading conservation zoo located Steppy Downs Studio, just outside the
HAYLE small village of St Erth, worked in the
on the southern outskirts of the town. As well
7½ miles NE of Penzance on the B3301 creative art form of decorative wildlife
as providing a sanctuary for tropical birds and woodcarving. The business has now
E Paradise Park exotic animals, the park also has a huge indoor been taken over by his son Andrew who
play centre and a special toddlers area. continues to produce top quality wood
Established in the 18th century as an industrial carvings. They are predominantly of
village, Hayle was also a seaport with a harbour Across the estuary is Lelant, a thriving birds, - terns, seagulls, mallards, puffins,
in the natural shelter of the Hayle estuary. It seaport in the Middle Ages that suffered a owls - with flying birds as a speciality.
was here, in the early 1800s, that the Cornish decline as the estuary silted up. Now a popular The pieces are finely balanced to
produce a wing cadence close to the
inventor Richard Trevithick built an early holiday village with a golf course, Lelant is characteristics of the species chosen.
version of the steam locomotive. A short time particularly loved by bird-watchers, who come But Andrew is happy to accept
later, one of the first railways in the world was to see the wide variety of wildfowl and waders commissions for any kind of wood
carving. One commission he received
constructed here to carry tin and copper from on the mud and salt flats. Lelant was the
was for a birthday present, a carving of
Redruth down to the port. With its industrial birthplace of Rosamunde Pilcher who one man’s prize possession, his racing
past, Hayle is not a place naturally associated celebrated her native county in enormously car. He can work from photographs and
with cosmetics, but it was Hayle-born Florence popular novels, including The Shell Seekers. has done many family portraits of
children and pets.
Andrew also continues his father’s
WHITE HART HOTEL use of “pyrography’, a very ancient and
precise art form whose name comes
10 Foundry Square, Hayle, Cornwall TR27 4HQ from the Greek for ‘burning onto wood‘.
Tel: 01736 752322 Combining skills learnt as an instrument
e-mail: bookings@whiteharthayle.demon.uk maker in the aviation industry, Roy
website: www.whiteharthotel-hayle.co.uk created his wildlife pieces in fine detail,
using a technique that he termed
Occupying an elegant Grade II listed building dating back to
‘painting with heat’ . This uses the
1838, the White Hart Hotel is the oldest hotel in the town
‘Firefly’ control unit that Roy
and offers period charm together with modern amenities. It
manufactured which provides a
has an attractive bar and a restaurant serving an appetising
calibrated control of the hand piece
menu based on fresh local produce. The accommodation
temperature over the range from 0 to
comprises 25 attractively furnished and decorated rooms,
2000 degrees Fahrenheit, a range of
all with en suite facilities and provided with hospitality
temperature which Roy considered as his
tray, mini-fridge and TV with Freeview. The owner of the
temperature/palette producing a range of
hotel is an avid art collector so all the rooms feature
texturing colour which is very pleasing to
original works of art from various artists. and a range of
the eye.
paintings and statuettes from his collection can be found
decorating the rooms of the hotel. Naturally, the hotel has Steppy Downs Studio enjoys
its own ghosts - if you feel inclined to find out for yourself, extensive views of the Hayle Estuary to
ask for Room 9! the north and St. Michael’s Mount and
Penzance to the south west. To find it, leave the A30 at St Erth Station, just south of Hayle, and
There are two sister hotels - The Union Hotel in Penzance and the Angel Hotel in Helston (see
continue to the T junction. Turn left, continue through the village and up St Erth Hill. Steppy
pages 11 and 53).
Downs House and Studio are situated on the left hand side at the brow of the hill.

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the 11th century, Edward the many splendid features. However the family crescent of Praa Sands, one of the finest

CORNWALL
Confessor founded a priory on the members, who made their fortune in mining, family beaches in Cornwall. Further west again
mount in tribute to the famous are more interesting; Sidney, the poet, was is Prussia Cove, a clifftop settlement named
Benedictine Mont St Michel in killed during the Civil War fighting for the after a notorious 18th-century smuggler, John
Normandy. The remains of that king; Sidney, the 1st earl, was a Lord High Carter, who modelled himself on Frederick
building are incorporated into the Treasurer to both William III and Queen the Great of Prussia.
marvellous St Michael’s Mount Anne; the 2nd earl imported the famous
Castle owned by the St Aubyn family Godolphin Arabian, one of three stallions
NEWLYN
from 1660 until 1954 when it was from which all British thoroughbreds are 1 mile S of Penzance on the B3315
donated to the National Trust. The descended. While the house remains in private H Newlyn Art Gallery
St Michael’s Mount St Aubyn family remain in residence ownership, the Godolphin estate is owned by The largest fish-landing port in England and
however, with a 999-year lease. Along the National Trust and this historic landscape Wales, Newlyn has a long association with
MARAZION with the impressive medieval remains, the includes more than 400 recorded fishing. Its massive jetties, built in the 1880s,
5 miles E of Penzance off the A394 castle incorporates architectural styles from archaeological features. embrace not only the existing 15th-century
E Marazion Marsh D St Michael’s Mount the 17th to the 19th century. A fine plaster To the south of Godolphin lies the hamlet harbour, but also 40 acres of Mount’s Bay.
A St Michael’s Mount Castle
frieze of 1641 depicting scenes of bear and of Rinsey where evidence of tin mining can The arrival of the railway in 1859 allowed the
deer hunting, and some elegant Chippendale be seen in the restored 19th century engine swift transportation of fresh fish and seafood
Cornwall’s oldest charter town (dating from furniture are amongst the heritage treasures; a house of Wheal Prosper and the ruins of a to London and beyond. Newlyn is still a base
1257), Marazion was for many centuries the model of the castle made out of discarded copper mine, Wheal Trewavas. Just to the west for around 200 vessels. Cornish sardines are
most important settlement around Mount’s champagne corks by the St Aubyns’ butler, of Rinsey, two headlands enclose the mile long landed in the early hours each morning, ready
Bay. The legacy of this harbour town is its fine Henry Lee, is amongst the quirkier attractions.
old inns and residential houses overlooking When an earlier St Aubyn resident, the 4th
the sandy beach. The town is now a Lord St Levan, was asked what had been his THE BLUE DOOR STUDIO
windsurfing and sailing centre, but to the most significant contribution to the family 4 Greeb Way, Perranuthnoe,
northwest is Marazion Marsh & RSPB home, he replied, “The 10 tons of manure I nr Penzance, Cornwall TR20 9NN
Reserve, an extensive area of wetland and had brought to the island.” They were used to Tel: 01736 719193
reed beds behind Marazion Beach on the e-mail: barbarakarn@talktalk.net
fertilise the extraordinary maritime garden
Penzance road. More than 450 plant species website: www.barbarakarn.co.uk
created in terraces just above the sea. Sub-
have been recorded here, and the reserve is The Blue Door Studio, in a pleasant village east
tropical plants flourish here in abundance and of Penzance, is the main retail outlet of
home to many nesting and roosting birds, even in winter fuchsias and hydrangeas are still Barbara Karn’s popular range of greetings cards
including herons, reed and sedge warblers and in bloom. and prints. Barbara has been a working artists
Cetti’s warbler. for many years, after formal training in
Situated a third of a mile offshore, St GODOLPHIN CROSS Cheltenham, and her lively, contemporary style is imbued with a
generous helping of gentle humour.
Michael’s Mount rises dramatically out of 9 miles E of Penzance off the B3302
Subjects for her cards and prints include cats, dogs, birds
the waters of Mount’s Bay. It is connected to A Godolphin House C Wheal Prosper Mine (especially seagulls) and Café Moments, as well as landscapes and
Marazion by a cobbled causeway that is seascapes that reflect changing weather patterns and other local
D Praa Sands influences.
exposed at low tide; at other times you can
To the northwest of the village stands Shoppers who can’t get to the Studio can browse and buy on line,
travel there on one of the three small ferries.
or visit other outlets for Barbara’s work. These include: Veryan
Inhabited since prehistoric times, this granite Godolphin House, an exceptional part-
Galleries on the Roseland Peninsula, Open Space Galleries in Penryn
rock is named after the Archangel St Michael Tudor, part-Stuart house that still retains its and the St Ives Society of Artists, and, from further afield, Black Swan
who, according to legend, appeared to a party original Elizabethan stables. The former home Arts in Frome, Somerset; Bluestone Gallery in Devizes, Wiltshire, and
the Crooked House Gallery in Lavenham, Suffolk.
of fishermen in a vision in the 5th century. In of the Earls of Godolphin, the house has

A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks
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28 The Countr y Living Guide to R ural England - Cor nwall 29

for processing and canning the same day. MOUSEHOLE

Stargazey

CORNWALL
In late August, the Newlyn Fish Festival 2 miles S of Penzance off the B3315
celebrates the value and importance of the Mousehole (pronounced Mowzel) was Mill Lane, Mousehole, Cornwall TR19 6RP
fishing industry to the local community. described by Dylan Thomas, who Tel: 01736 731115
Fishing boats in the harbour are decked with honeymooned here in 1937, as “the loveliest e-mail: gifts@stargazey.plus.com
flags and there are spectacular displays of fish, village in England”. Still largely unspoilt, it website: www.stargazey.co.uk
while the quayside is thrown open to craft fulfils the popular image of what a Cornish Stockists of coast & country inspired home accessories,
markets and entertainment. fishing village should look like, complete with soft furnishings & stylish designer gifts from Gisela
It was not fish, but the exceptionally clear Graham, Archipelago, Bill Brown and many more…
a picturesque harbour where a small number
natural light that drew Stanhope Forbes to Take home a little piece of Cornwall from our locally sourced candles, soaps, and slate.
of fishing boats off-load their daily catch. At Discover stunning sculptured driftwood fresh from a Cornish beach, tastefully combined with new
Newlyn in the 1880s. He was soon joined by the southern end of the quay, rising from the ideas & inspiration from around the world. Cool, calm & co-ordinated New England
other artists, keen to experience the joys of water, is Merlin’s Rock. Here the great wizard colours…breathe in the sea air, relax & enjoy the experience in our pretty courtyard setting.
painting outside. The Newlyn School of art is supposed to have prophesied: Fabulous interiors at affordable prices, don’t miss us on your next visit to Mousehole. Find us
was founded with the help of other artists nextdoor to Pam’s Pantry & The Little Picture Gallery.

such as Lamorna Birsh, Alfred Munnings and There shall land on the Rock of Merlin
Norman Garstin, but to see their work you Those who shall burn Paul, Penzance and Newlyn.
have to visit the Penlee House Gallery in In July 1595, four Spanish galleys fulfilled
Penzance. The Newlyn Art Gallery exhibits a his prophecy. Every house in the village except
wide variety of work with special emphasis on one was destroyed - the sole survivor, Keigwin
the work of local artists, past and present. House (private), can still be seen.

Dolly Pentreath, reputedly the last person to remembered annually shortly before Christmas
speak only the Cornish language, lived in on 23 December, Tom Bawcock’s Eve, when
Mousehole. She died in the early 1800s and a huge fish pie - Starry Gazey Pie - is baked
Mill Lane, Mousehole, Cornwall TR19 6RP there is a memorial to her in the churchyard at and consumed by the patrons of the inn on
Tel: 01736 732877
Paul, a small village just above Mousehole. the quayside. This event commemorates the
e-mail: little.pictures@virgin.net
website: www.littlepicturesmousehole.co.uk In winter, the entrance to Mousehole catch landed by Tom Bawcock ,which saved
harbour is closed by sturdy wooden beams to villagers who were close to starvation as
For an impressive line-up of well-known, representational and naïve
artists from the South West and from London, visit THE LITTLE keep the force of the sea at bay. In past times, storms had prevented other fishermen from
PICTURE GALLERY, run by local artists Paul and Judy Joel, and the village has suffered ferocious winter leaving harbour.
situated opposite Pam’s Pantry, next to Stargazey.
storms and one of these events is
A collection of Judy’s work is on display and commissions are ST BURYAN
Welcome. A full list of artists represented is available on the website. 5 miles SW of Penzance on the B3283
Open from 11 – 5 Monday to Saturday or by appointment.
A Church of St Buriana
C Boscawen-Un Stone Circle
C Tretyn Dinas D Logan Rock

The landscape around this village is dominated

by the 14th-century tower of one of the finest
churches in Cornwall, the Church of St
Buriana. It also provides a day mark for
Mousehole Harbour
shipping around Land’s End and can be seen
A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks
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from the Scilly Isles. Its major treasure is a

Minack Theatre FIRST AND LAST COTTAGES

CORNWALL
beautiful medieval screen, painted in dazzling
gold, red and green. Treeve Moor House, Sennen, Penzance,
Cornwall TR19 7AE
To the north of St Buryan is the isolated
Tel: 01736 871284
Boscawen-Un Stone Circle whose central Mobile: 07771 914660
standing stone is an attractive leaning pillar of e-mail: info@firstandlastcottages.co.uk
sparkling quartz. website: www.firstandlastcottages.co.uk
To the southwest, and sheltered in a A very personal service is offered at First and Last Cottages owned
shallow valley, is the unspoilt hamlet of by Liz Trenary. The selection of self-catering holiday cottages,
apartments and barn conversions are all set within an Area of
Treen. A short walk away is the spectacularly
Outstanding Natural Beauty in West Cornwall. Stunning scenery
sited Iron Age coastal fort, Tretyn Dinas. surrounds the properties, which are close to the breathtaking
Also on this headland stands the famous coastline and nearby fishing villages.
Logan Rock, a massive 60-ton granite Liz has a wide range of self-catering accommodation available in a
boulder that was once so finely balanced it variety of locations including Porthcurno, Porthgwarra, St Buryan,
Sennen Cove and St Just. It is Liz who takes the bookings here, meets
could be rocked by hand. and greets all guests and answers any enquiries. She also owns Treeve
Moor House, which is the closest bed and breakfast to Land’s End. It is
PORTHCURNO in an ideal location for visiting the outdoor Minack Theatre, walking the
7½ miles SW of Penzance off the B3315 coastal path and it’s just four miles from Land’s End airport.
There is plenty in West Cornwall to keep visitors occupied.
B Porthcurno Telegraph Museum
Tourists can indulge in water sports, bird watching, the lively arts scene, visiting sub-tropical
H Minack Theatre gardens and eating fabulous food. There are currently 19 self-catering properties available in the
backdrop, the first play produced here, in area. Ring for details.
A recent survey by the Sunday Times listed the 1931, was Shakespeare’s The Tempest. Since
beach at Porthcurno as one of the Top Ten then the Bard’s plays have provided the central 120-acre site. At the same time he bought the RNLI and state-of-the-art displays of local
Best Beaches in the World. It praised its focus for each season’s performances, along John o’Groats, 874 miles away near the tales and legends and the lives of the Cornish
“secret coves, craggy cliffs, soft sand and with other classics, avant-garde plays and the northern tip of Scotland. “Cornwall is a farmers and craftsmen.
proper rock pools”. perennially popular Pirates of Penzance. Daytime goldmine,” he declared and proceeded to
It was from this dramatic cove, protected by visitors can explore the Rowena Cade make Land’s End into a kind of theme park SANCREED
Gwennap Head and Cribba Head, that the Exhibition Centre, which tells the story of with a huge hotel, amusements complex and
3½ miles W of Penzance off the A30
first telegraph cable was laid in 1870 linking how Rowena spent decades developing the car parks. The evocative name still draws many A St Credan’s Church C Sancreed Holy Well
Britain with the rest of the world. The 750-seat theatre. thousands here each year and the coastline C Carn Euny E Bartinney Downs
Porthcurno Telegraph Museum, housed in itself, swarming with herring gulls and fulmars,
LAND’S END The best example of an ancient Celtic Cross in
a secret underground wartime remains as awe-inspiring as ever. From this
9 miles SW of Penzance on the A30 Cornwall stands nine feet high in the
communications centre, explains the headland can be seen Longships Lighthouse,
I Land’s End Experience churchyard of 15th-century St Credan’s
technology that has been developed from just off shore, and Wolf Rock Lighthouse,
Church. In the surrounding area are two
Victorian times to the present. Mainland England’s most westerly point, nine miles to the southwest.
Bronze Age monuments, the Blind Fiddler
This interesting village is also home to the Land’s End was once a mystical place. There’s almost always a queue jostling to be
and the Two Sisters. Like many Cornish
Minack Theatre. This open-air amphitheatre Somewhere beyond its craggy cliffs lay the photographed in front of the signpost
menhirs, they are said to represent humans
cut into the cliffside looks as if it might have Lost Land of Lyonesse and the stark, treeless showing the distances to various cities around
turned to stone for committing irreligious acts
been created by the Romans, but in fact it was surroundings often draped in sea mist spoke the world, while the Land’s End Experience
on the Sabbath.
founded by a very determined lady, Rowena eloquently of elemental, hostile forces. Then is a flashy video presentation that is certainly
Just outside the village, steps lined with
Cade, in the 1930s. Appropriately, with in 1982, a London businessman, Peter de an experience of a kind. More acceptable are
glowing moss-green phosphoresce lead down
Porthcurno Bay providing a not always serene Savary, outbid the National Trust to buy the an exhibition telling the story of the men of
A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks
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32 The Countr y Living Guide to R ural England - Cor nwall 33

to Sancreed Holy Well, which was re- B3306, is regarded by many as the most
PENDEEN POTTERY & ART GALLERY

CORNWALL
discovered by the local vicar in1879. it is in a spectacular coastal route in England.
sheltered pine and holly grove. In his book, For a town its size, St Just is well-supplied
Pendeen, nr Penzance, Cornwall TR19 7DN
Holy Wells of Cornwall, the Rev A Lane-Davies Tel: 01736 788070
with art galleries displaying the work of local
e-mail: pendeenpottery@tiscali.co.uk
wrote, “This spot always seems to me to artists. There are four in the town itself and website: www.pendeenpottery.co.uk
possess a greater air of mystery and sanctity another, the Tregeseal Gallery, just outside.
Situated in the former mining village of Pendeen, on the
than any other in Cornwall.” Above the well is St Just marks the start (or the end) of The exceptionally scenic B3306 St Ives to Lands End road,
the remains of an old chapel. Tinners’ Way, an ancient track way between Pendeen Pottery and Art Gallery is a working pottery run
To the southwest of the village is Carn the husband and wife team of John and Gemma Swan.
the town and St Ives. The track follows
They produce an interesting and varied range of
Euny, a fascinating Iron Age courtyard farming ancient moorland paths that were certainly domestic and gardenware, all hand-thrown by John and
settlement that was founded around 200BC. By used more than 2000 years ago and may hand-decorated on the premises. As well as decorating
far the most impressive building here is the originally have been part of a network of John’s white earthenware in a variety of styles, Gemma
Fogou, which was first discovered by miners in paints landscapes and still life and botanical subjects and
paths dating back to Neolithic times.
teaches botanical and flower painting at Penzance Art
the 19th century and takes its name from the To the northeast of the town lies Botallack, School. They supply various galleries and outlets,
Cornish for cave. This underground chamber where the remains of Three Crowns Mine rise including the Lost Gardens of Heligan, the Eden Project
was constructed in three separate stages, and dramatically on the clifftop. Here, tunnels were and National Trust properties, and John also supplies jars
the 65-foot-room was entered by a low ‘creep’ for the cider industry.
cut over half a mile out to sea, under the Paintings and crafts by other invited Cornish artists
passage at one end. seabed, to extract rich copper lode. The are exhibited at the pottery, which is close to Geevor
Immediately west of Carn Euny is Count House (National Trust) was formerly Mine and Heritage Centre as well as Levant Mine and
Bartinney Downs, a large area of heathland the acounts office for the mine and now Botallack, owned by the National Trust.
where programmes are in place to preserve contains exhibits detailing the area’s mining
wildlife habitats, archaeological sites and history, geology and wild life.
historic features, including old china clay
works, abandoned quarries and the ruins of PENDEEN
Bartinney Castle. 8 miles NW of Penzance on the B3306
B Geevor Tin Mine B Levant Steam Engine
ST JUST-IN-PENWITH
7 miles W of Penzance on the A3071 Tin has been mined at Pendeen since
prehistoric times. At the Geevor Mine tin was
J The Tinners’ Way A The Count House
still being extracted until 1985 when the
The westernmost town in mainland Britain, international crash in tin prices sounded its
St Just was a copper and tin mining centre death knell. The mine closed in 1990 but has
and the surrounding area is littered with been preserved as the Geevor Tin Mine and
industrial remains. A narrow road leads from Heritage Centre. It not only preserves the
this rather sombre town westwards to Cape mine but offers visitors the chance to
Cornwall, the only cape in England, passing experience the claustrophobic conditions of
the last remnant of Cape Cornwall mine – its miners underground, while former miners
tall chimney. On the southern side of this relate their own stories of working here.
headland lies Priest’s Cove, a quiet boulder- Close by, housed in a tiny building perched
strewn beach, while, further along, the South high on the cliff, is the National Trust-owned
West Coast Path follows the cliff tops. The Levant Steam Engine, Cornwall’s oldest
coastal road from St Just to St Ives, the beam engine. It has been restored and is once

A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks
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34 The Countr y Living Guide to R ural England - Cor nwall 35

again producing power. Further to the north, sculpture by David Stannard of The Tin this curious theatre is

CORNWALL
on the slate promontory of Pendeen Watch, Miner was erected in Fore Street. sometimes known as the
stands Pendeen Lighthouse, which has been In the late 1790s, Redruth was the home of Methodist Cathedral, as
guiding ships for nearly a century. the Scottish inventor William Murdoch who John Wesley preached here
is famous for such innovations as coal-gas on many occasions.
Redruth lighting and vacuum powered tubes. His
home, Murdoch House, was the first private
Methodists from all around
the world still gather here
H The Tin Miner G William Murdoch D Carn Brea house to have gas lighting installed, in 1792. It on Spring Bank Holiday.
D Hell’s Mouth C Gwennap Pit now houses the Global Migration Project A few miles further
where visitors with Cornish roots can trace southeast of Redruth, the
Redruth was once the capital of the largest their forebears. village of Ponsonooth is
and richest metal mining area in Britain. The home to a rather special
Immediately south of the town rises
deep mining of copper after the 1730s Cornish delicacy, Cornish
dramatic Carn Brea, a granite hill that reaches
brought prosperity to the town – at the peak Yarg Cheese. This famous
some 738 feet above sea level and is crowned
of production in the 1850s, two-thirds of the cheese, with its distinctive Tin Mine, nr St Agnes
by a 90-foot monument to Francis Basset, a
world’s copper came from Cornwall. Some flavour somewhere between
local benevolent mine and land owner. Once
pockets of Victorian, Georgian and earlier Cheddar and Caerphilly, comes wrapped in a (National Trust). The mine operated between
the site of an early Neolithic settlement, Carn
buildings bear witness to those days of 1860 and 1890 and its derelict Engine House
nettle leaf covering. This local delicacy reaches
Brea is also home to a small, part-medieval
comparative affluence for some. The miners many of the best restaurants and delicatessen is one of the more exceptional landmarks
castle and it is still the site of the pagan ritual
themselves endured dreadful conditions. counters around the country. along this stretch of coast. The walk to the
of the Midsummer Bonfire ceremony.
Children started work as young as eight and remains of Wheal Kitty provides panoramic
To the north, along the coast, are the two
fatal accidents were frequent. The average life
span of a miner was less than 40 years. Until
thriving holiday centres of Porthtowan and Around Redruth views over this once industrial area.
Portreath. Although they developed as a Visitors coming to this now popular seaside
recently, the only memorials they had were resort can learn more about the village’s
copper mining village and ore-exporting port ST AGNES
the ruined mine buildings and chimney stacks heritage through the displays on mining,
respectively, they are now favoured by surfers 5 miles N of Redruth on the B3285
dotted across the countryside around seafaring and local natural history at the St
and families during the summer season. Near A Stippy-Stappy A Wheal Coates
Redruth. But in 2008, a 6-foot-high bronze Agnes Parish Museum. Those with an
Portreath is the startling
B St Agnes Parish Museum interest in learning about the tin production
natural feature known as
Hell’s Mouth. The geology A Blue Hills Tin Streams D St Agnes Beacon processes should join one of the guided tours
of the cliffs here causes the around Blue Hills Tin Streams at nearby
This picturesque coastal resort, with some of
inrushing seawater to make a Trevellas where production still continues on a
the finest surfing beaches in the UK, was once
loud booming noise as the small scale. Items made with the tin mined
known as the source of the finest tin in
caves fill with surging waves. here are on sale in the shop.
Cornwall. It still retains many of its original
Just to the southeast of miners’ cottages and grander mine owners’ Noted as the birthplace of the Georgian
Redruth is the mysterious houses. Of particular interest is the steeply society painter, John Opie, St Agnes was also
Gwennap Pit, a round, grass- terraced row of 18th-century cottages known introduced to thousands of readers through
covered amphitheatre, thought as Stippy-Stappy, the Cornish dialect term for the Poldark novels of Winston Graham in
to have been created by the walking uphill. Surrounding the village are which the village appeared as St Ann.
collapse of a subterranean many haunting ruins of old mine workings, From the village, a footpath takes walkers
mine shaft. Once used as a pit including the clifftop buildings of one of out to St Agnes Head and St Agnes Beacon
Gwennap Pit, nr Redruth for the staging of cock fights, Cornwall’s best known mines – Wheal Coates from whose summit may be seen 30 parish

A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks
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High on the cliff above the village rises the Heritage as one of the most important
PAPER MOUNTAIN AND SCRAP ANGELS CRAFT

CORNWALL
Millennium Sundial, a giant construct, which remaining airfields of that period. The field is
SUPPLIES
is adjusted to indicate Cornish time - now used as a base for parachuting and gliding
Unit 9, Great Western Railway Yard, St Agnes, Cornwall TR5 0PD 20 minutes earlier than GMT. clubs. Scenic flights are also available.
Tel: 01872 554405
High up in the dunes overlooking Penhale
e-mail: scrapangels@btinternet.com ST ALLEN
website: www.scrapangels.co.uk Sands is St Piran’s Oratory, a ruined 6th or
9½ miles NE of Redruth off the A30
7th-century building constructed on the site
Paper Mountain and Scrap Angels Craft Supplies is the first dedicated scrap
of St Piran’s grave. The ruins lay beneath the E Chyverton Garden
book specialist in Cornwall. Standing in the quaint village of St Agnes, on
the north coast of the Duchy, it stocks a wide range of products for those sand until it was uncovered in 1835. It’s the As in many parts of the country with a Celtic
interested in scrapbooking, card making and paper crafts. oldest known church in the southwest, but tradition, Cornwall has its own ‘little people’ –
This delightful independent shop is owned by Kerry Grant who also
the shifting sands have once again claimed the piskies. One legend tells of a boy from St
offers a variety of classes in the shop’s very own workshop (ring for
details). The cost of the class includes a generous class kit, two hours the remains. A simple plaque now marks the Allen who failed to return home after going
tuition and another hour to complete the project. burial place of the saint who is said to have out to pick flowers in a nearby wood. His
A fun evening of scrapbooking can be enjoyed every third travelled from Ireland to the Cornish coast frantic mother began a search and eventually
Wednesday and Thursday of the month at the Scrapangels shop from on a millstone.
7pm-10pm. The Scrapangels Scrapbook Club gives keen scrapbookers
he was found, three days later, dazed but
the opportunity to meet people with a similar passion for paper crafts. Perranporth rather surprisingly has its own unharmed. All the boy could remember was
Those attending can work on their own projects or try one of the Page airfield. It served as a Spitfire base during being led deep into the forest, to a fantastic
Kits on offer. World War Two and is regarded by English cave filled with jewels, and being fed the
If a trip to the pretty seaside village is not on the cards you can
always reap the benefits of secure shopping on the scrapangels website,
which has new products added every week.
Chyverton Garden
churches, both Cornish coasts, part of traditional Cornish Scrumpy. The Cyder Zelah, nr Truro, Cornwall TR4 9HD
Devon and, at night, the lights of 12 Museum tells the history of cider-making Tel: 01872 540324 Fax: 01872 540648
lighthouses. There are also spectacular views through displays of old equipment and The core of the house at Chyverton was built in
over the old mine workings and remains artefacts, and the Mowhay Restaurant serves 1730 and in 1770 two wings were added by
from both the Bronze and Iron Ages. Now Cornish cream teas and home-made food. John Thomas, a wealthy mine owner. Over the
the home of some rare and localised plants next 55 years he created a Georgian landscape
and a wide variety of bird life, this area is PERRANPORTH garden on the property: he dammed a small
criss-crossed by footpaths and is owned by 10 miles NE of Redruth on the B3285 stream to form a lake, built a bridge and a
walled garden and planted 94 acres of
the National Trust. H Lowender Peran Festival H Millennium Sundial
woodland.
A St Piran’s Oratory The first rhododendrons, for which
PENHALLOW
Chyverton Garden is renowned, were planted in
8 miles NE of Redruth on the A3075 This pleasant holiday resort, with its three-
1890; most of them are the old hybrid Cornish
mile stretch of golden sand, much favoured
H Cornish Cyder Farm Red and many are of an immense size, perhaps the largest in cultivation in Europe. The garden
by surfers, was at one time a pilchard fishing also has notable magnolias and camellias and a fine collection of conifers. In 1924 the estate
Acclaimed by the English Tourist Board as The and mining village that also harboured changed hands for the first time and became the home of Treve and Muriel Holman, keen
Nation’s Favourite Farm Visit, the family run smuggling gangs. Though little has survived gardeners who added many exotic plants brought back from plant hunting trips to the Far
Cornish Cyder Farm just south of Penhallow from those days, the small town’s Celtic East and who created a woodland garden.
offers a fully guided tour of the site and heritage is still remembered during the annual The whole garden is looked after by their son Nigel, who has encouraged the wild and
orchards. Visitors can sample some of the 40 Lowender Peran Festival in mid October, natural appearance that is such a feature. Some of the plants are named after Treve Holman
different fruit products made here, including and Nigel’s late wife Elisabeth, and in the memorial garden is a wooden bridge designed by
which brings all the Celtic nations together
jams, country wines, cider, cider brandy and Nigel that commemorates the death of Treve in 1959.
through music and dance.

A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks
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purest honey by the piskies. CAMBORNE

POOLEYS MEAT PANTRY

CORNWALL
Just to the north of St Allen, at the village 3 miles SW of Redruth on the A3047
103 Trelowarren Street, Camborne,
of Zelah, is Chyverton Garden (see panel on B Geological Museum G Richard Trevithick Cornwall TR14 8AW
page 35) which is centred around a grand A Trevithick Cottage D Godrevy Point Tel: 01209 712350
Georgian house (private) built by a wealthy
Once the capital of Cornwall’s tin and copper The town of Camborne is lucky enough to boast
local mine owner. The landscaped garden is a truly traditional butcher’s shop, Pooleys Meat
renowned for its rhododendrons, the first of mining area - in the 19th century the land Pantry. There has been a butcher’s shop on this
which were planted in 1890, and for its around Camborne was the most intensely site since 1930. It was established by the late
mined in the world. In the 1850s, more than William Pooley, continued by Douglas Pooley
magnolias, camellias and conifers. Admission and then over in 2007 by Roy Clemens of the
to the garden is by appointment only and the 300 mines were producing some two thirds of
Meat Pantry and Leonard Tresidder who has
best time to visit is during April and May. the world’s copper. However, the discovery of worked in the town for 20 years. They make
extensive mineral deposits in the Americas, their own sausages and championship Hoggs
POOL South Africa and Australia led to the industry’s Pudding on site and also supply hotels and other
catering outlets.
2 miles SW of Redruth on the A3047 decline in Cornwall in the early 1900s. Before
Customers here have come to expect
B Cornish Mines & Engines the industry took off in the 18th century, knowledgeable service from the well-trained and
Camborne was a small place and the traces of pleasant staff as they select their steaks, pork and
B Cornwall Industrial Discovery Centre poultry. Popular products here are the shop’s own
rapid expansion can still be seen in the
E Shire Horse Farm Cornish Porker Sausages, Pork & Apple Burgers and Black Cracked Pepper Sausages, all of which are
numerous terraces of 18th and 19th-century made from locally sourced ingredients. The shop also sells Cornish Heavy Cake, Pickled Eggs and
Now subsumed into the Camborne and miners’ houses. Picked Onions. If you are not able to get to the shop Pooleys operates a daily home delivery service.
Redruth conurbation, this village was very As the town’s livelihood has depended on
much at the heart of Cornwall’s mining mining for several hundred years, it is not lighthouse that featured in Virginia Woolf ’s defend the harbour from invasion.
industry. Cornish Mines and Engines surprising that Camborne is home to the novel To the Lighthouse. Much of the coastline Impressively sited on a 200-foot promontory
(National Trust) displays two huge engines world-famous School of Mines. Its from Godrevy eastwards to Navax Point is overlooking the entrance to Carrick Roads,
that were used to pump water from the mines. Geological Museum displays rocks and owned by the National Trust and the clifftops Henry’s Pendennis Castle (English Heritage)
At the nearby Cornwall Industrial minerals from all over the world. Outside the support some of the botanically richest is one of Cornwall’s great fortresses. Along
Discovery Centre the secrets of the county’s town’s library is a statue to Richard maritime heath in Europe. with St Mawes Castle on the opposite bank, it
dramatic heritage are revealed. Trevithick, a talented amateur wrestler known served as a powerful deterrent against enemy
Before the days of steam, heavy work was as the Cornish Giant who was responsible for
developing the high pressure steam engine, the
Falmouth attack. Strengthened further during the threat
of a second Spanish Armada, Pendennis was
carried out by horses, and the Shire Horse
Farm and Carriage Museum, at nearby screw propeller and an early locomotive that A Pendennis Castle E Fox Rosehill Gardens one of the last Royalist strongholds to fall
predated Stephenson’s Rocket by 12 years. His during the Civil War. It remained in use until
Treskillard, pays a living tribute to these gentle B National Maritime Museum Cornwall
giants. The farm is also one of the very few achievements are celebrated in Camborne on
D Jacob’s Ladder
remaining breeders of the Suffolk Punch Trevithick Day, towards the end of April, and
his childhood home, Trevithick Cottage Falmouth has grown up around a spectacular
horse. The museum has an interesting
(National Trust), is open on Wednesday deep-water anchorage that is the world’s third
collection of private carriages and horse-
afternoons during the season. largest natural harbour – only Sydney and Rio
drawn commercial vehicles (including the
To the northwest of Camborne is Godrevy de Janeiro are more extensive. The town lies in
largest collection of horse-drawn omnibuses
Point whose low cliffs mark the northern Britain’s Western Approaches and guards the
in the country), farming implements and hand
edge of St Ives Bay. It’s a popular beauty spot entrance into Carrick Roads. First settled
tools used by previous generations. There are
from where seals can be sighted offshore. Just centuries ago, it was not until the 17th century
wheelwright and blacksmith shops, and wagon
off the point lies Godrevy Island with the that the port was properly developed, although
rides are available. Blockhouse at Pendennis Castle
Henry VIII, 100 years earlier, sought to
A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks
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the end of World War Two. Now, through a Southampton. A charming legacy of the
JUST LIKE THIS

CORNWALL
variety of displays and exhibitions, the 450- packet ships’ prosperous days is Fox Rosehill
37 High Street, Falmouth, Cornwall TR11 2AF year history of the fortress is explained. Gardens, which are stocked with many exotic
Tel/Fax: 01326 212895 plants from around the world brought back by
During its heyday in the early 1800s,
In a handsome period building on Falmouth’s various ships’ captains, including one named
bustling High Street, Just Like This is stocked with
Falmouth was the home of almost 40 packet
an eclectic mix of ladies’ designer clothes and ships, which carried passengers, cargo and mail Fox. Blessed by the mild Cornish climate,
footwear, gifts, jewellery and accessories large and to every corner of the globe. The introduction banana, eucalyptus, bamboos, agaves and a
small. Fun is the name of the game here, with of steam-powered vessels put paid to wide variety of palms flourish here – and in
words like quirky, zany and fabulously funky
Falmouth’s days as a major port and, by the many private gardens.
describing the bright, colourful items on show. It’s
worth a visit just to meet the bubbly owner Jane 1850s, the packet service had moved to Although the docks continue to be used by
Thomas, who had been in the retail business in
Truro for 25 years before opening here in 2006.
Since then she has been adding fun and colour to SPARKLES
the clothes and the lives of the good ladies of 15 Theydon Road, Falmouth, Cornwall TR11 2RG
Falmouth and the many visitors who spend time in Tel: 01326 314138/0783 7770013
this lovely place every year. Almost everything in
e-mail: moirasparkles2000@yahoo.co.uk
stock is just that little bit different, great to wear
and guaranteed to turn heads. Clothes and shoes are Moira McCullough produces beautiful, unique pieces of jewellery at her
naturally the main items, but the accessories are a home in Falmouth. Her speciality is beaded jewellery, with beads in
big part of the business, from zany bright bathing glass, crystal, pearl or wood threaded on virtually unbreakable thread. She has recently started to
hats in vintage style to Funky umbrellas, crazy hair produce pieces from Precious metal Clay – a clay-like medium with very small particles of metal
dyes, hair brushes and feather boas. The following mixed with an organic binder and water. This can be shaped, then dried and fired to burn away the
are among the British and Continental brand names binder, leaving the pure metal. She also accepts commissions, particularly for bridal jewellery.
to be found at Just Like This, very different from
each other in many respects but sharing a sense
that choosing a wardrobe is something to enjoy: SISLEY
Desigual, established in 1984, makes colourful
28 Church Street, Falmouth, Cornwall TR11 3EQ
Spanish clothing and accessories for ladies and girls
in distinctive style. The range includes shirts, tank
Tel: 01326 315090
tops, T-shirts, blouses, skirts, dresses and coats. e-mail: shop@sisleycornwall.co.uk
Irregular Choice was founded by design website: www.sisleycornwall.co.uk
entrepreneur in 1994 to maintain and encourage Located on Falmouth’s main shopping street, with easy parking
creativity and individuality in what he saw as a nearby, Sisley is the only retail outlet in the South West for the
world of increasing conformity. His shoes – flats, internationally renowned Sisley brand of ladies fashionwear.
heels, boots and trainers – have been dubbed ‘the Proprietor Veronique Eastham buys this range of modern
lifestyle choice of fashion footwear’. classics to cater for all ages and sizes, and the displays,
Iron Fist, founded in 2001 by two friends from beautifully laid out in colour tones, and the friendly, helpful
South Africa, makes shoes that are unique and staff make it a pleasure to shop here. The Sisley brand, a
stylish, with individual artwork on every item. Ideas division of Benetton, covers a wide range of dresses and tops,
come from skateboarding, surfing, art, music and skirts and trousers, knitwear, shoes, bags and accessories, all
street culture, and the artwork sets iron Fist shoes of the highest quality, with the finest attention to detail.
apart from streetwear counterparts. Ladies who wear Sisley will look and feel a million dollars,
The founders of Vendula, which was established but considering the quality and the undoubted touch of class the
in London in 2003, saw a gap in interesting and prices are really competitive. Services offered by the shop
unusual accessories and started designing and include a wardrobe makeover and image consultancy. Shop
making a range of colourful, witty bags – cute hours are 10am to 5pm (to 5.30 Saturday, 12 to 4 Sunday).
‘apple’ bags, clutch bags, pearl bags, evening bags The website shows the Sisley range and shoppers who can’t get
and purses. Open from 10 to 5.30pm Monday to to Falmouth can shop by mail order. An e-mail to the shop will
Saturday. get the latest news, offers, sales dates and new stock details.

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merchant shipping, the town’s

THE COURTYARD DELI

CORNWALL
traditional activities are being
2 Bells Court, Falmouth, Cornwall TR11 3AZ overtaken by yachting and tourism.
Tel: 01326 319526 Falmouth’s nautical and notorious
e-mail: courtyarddeli@btconnect.com
past is revealed at the National
The Courtyard Deli is housed in traditional slate-
Maritime Museum Cornwall
hung stone building dating from 1764, set back
behind the main street up the slipway opposite where the wealth of displays explain
Marks & Spencer. Just thirty seconds from the the rise in popularity of the town
hustle and bustle of Market Street, it provides an due to the packet ships. The
air of peace and seclusion that’s prefect for a
relaxing coffee and a snack or taking time to
museum’s collection includes 120
choose something to take away from the mouth- historic British and international National Maritime Museum
watering array of top-quality fare. The premises boats, as well as contemporary
are light and inviting, with some easy chairs and
vessels, prototypes and future
sofas and the work of local artists on the walls.
designs. In the vast Flotilla Gallery, an array of Arwenack House (private), parts of which
Outside is a sunny, sheltered courtyard set with
tables and chairs and also offering full waiter/ vessels is displayed suspended in mid-air and date back to the 14th century - most of the
waitress service. It’s equally popular with locals can be viewed from three different levels. A house, however, was remodelled in the 16th
meeting friends for a chat or taking a break from and 17th centuries.
work or shopping and with the many visitors who
great way to arrive at the museum is to use the
come to Falmouth throughout the year. The deli Park & Float service, located on the A39 at the From Killigrew Street a flight of 111 stone
is owned and run by Lyn Pollard, who opened northern end of the town, and sail to the steps, known as Jacob’s Ladder, climbs up the
here in 2006. She sources as much as possible museum on a classic ferry. Opposite the hillside to reveal sweeping views across the
locally, using her extensive knowledge of the top
producers/suppliers in the area, and has museum stands the town’s oldest residence, town and harbour. The Ladder is not named
established contacts with all the suppliers of
goods that come from further afield. The bread
and many of the cakes, pastries and pies are
THE WATERMEN’S GALLERY
made on the premises, and customers return time Custom House Quay, Falmouth, Cornwall TR11 3JT
and again for the home-cooked ham, the zingy Tel: 01326 312165 Mob: 07971 283975
fresh salads, the pork pies, the homity pies, the e-mail: sophi@beharrell.net
apple pies, the meringues, the bread-and-butter
pudding, the Origin organic coffee, the ice cream
website: www.sophiart.co.uk
and the Cornish cream teas. The Deli also caters SOPHI BEHARRELL is a long-standing artist based in
for dietary requirements, including a gluten free Falmouth.
menu. There’s also a good selection of She has sold in some of the leading galleries in the
Continental goods, including olives and olive oil, South west for over 13yrs, selling her canvases to all kinds
chorizo, salami and other cooked and cured of people from here and abroad.
meats, houmus and taramasalata. Sophi has always managed to capture the essence of
Sandwiches with home-baked white or seedy Cornwall whether it be in her Cliffscapes enhancing the
bread tempt with generous fillings like Cornish Brie with onion marmalade, home-cooked ham with beauty of the wildflowers or the majestic Beachscapes that
piccalilli, and sweet chilli crayfish tails. Served with chips and a salad garnish, they make tasty, go on forever, right through to the tranquil Creeks and
satisfying snacks or lunches. Equally popular are the platters – Greek, tapas, fish, cheese and a Coves.
Cornish selection. Come and Visit Sophi working on her latest canvas in
The Deli offers a bespoke catering service that includes picnic and gift hampers, with orders her beautiful waterside studio overlooking Falmouth Docks.
taken for parties, weddings and other special occasions and cakes themed for the event. The Watermen’s Gallery also shows a wide range of
Lyn is happy to share her passion for good food with her customers and outside the usual shop local artists work and a wonderful array of crafts and
hours (daytimes Monday to Saturday) she organises occasional informal deli talks, discussions and giftware to suit everybody’s pockets.
workshops, which take place from 7 to 9 in the evening – see the website for details of upcoming So, next time you are in Falmouth pop into see Sophi and her incredible studio.
evenings. “Pure Escapism, Pure Inspiration”

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THE CORNISH STORE CHELSEA HOUSE HOTEL

CORNWALL
11 Arwenack Street, Falmouth, Cornwall TR11 3JA Emslie Road, Falmouth, Cornwall TR11 4BG
Tel: 01326 315514 Tel: 01326 212230 Fax: 05600 764160
e-mail: sales@thecornishstore.com e-mail: info@chelseahousehotel.com
or store@cornishtreats.com website: www.chelseahousehotel.com
website: www.thecornishstore.com or www.cornishtreats.com Chelsea House is a high-quality Bed & breakfast
The Cornish Store is a family run business based in the establishment in a quiet, peaceful setting off the main
historic maritime town of Falmouth. road but just 100 metres from the seafront. The guest
Keven and Anne Ayres aim to provide their customers accommodation has recently been refurbished to a very
with the very best merchandise that Cornwall has to offer – high standard, and most of the ten rooms have smart
an impressive variety of gifts, crafts and souvenirs both new bathrooms. Each of the rooms has its own theme,
traditional and contemporary. With a combined experience in most enjoy fine views and three have south-facing private
the trade of over forty years they are true professionals with balconies. Guests have the use of beautiful gardens and a
a passion for both their business and Cornwall. Ninety-nine terrace set with tables and comfortable chairs.
percent of everything they sell comes from Cornwall and The house was built in 1908 for a Dutch packet
the UK and they are currently supporting over ninety boat captain, and many attractive original features have
Cornish producers. Many items are designed and produced been retained while providing modern comfort and
exclusively for the Cornish Store and with prices starting at facilities. The day starts with an excellent breakfast that
50p there is something to suit all budgets. includes full English and vegetarian options, several
The range is truly amazing, from clothing, household ways with eggs, kippers, Danish pastries and home-made marmalade.
textiles and pottery to jewellery, clocks and watches, or Owner Donna Barbett knows everything there is to know about the area and is always happy to
from books maps and CD’s to greetings cards, soft toys help guests plan their stay here. Gyllyngvase Beach and the National Maritime Museum Cornwall
and delicious food and drink items. Stock changes are close by, and Henry VIII’s Pendennis Castle is a gentle stroll away.
constantly but among the perennial favourites are Cornish
retro rugby shirts, T-shirts featuring Kernowman,
Kernowgirl and the Cornish Mafia, Pasty Peeps soft toys,
Cornish Tartan accessories, Dreckly Clocks, St.Piran Flag
beach towels and Cornish sayings mugs. Cornish food and
drink products are incredibly popular, who could resist
delicious homemade chutneys, preserves and breakfast
marmalades or luxurious fudge and handmade chocolates?
You will also find the famous Furniss Fairings, Cornish Sea
Salt and Tregothnan Tea. Selections of all these
delectable items can be purchased in the pretty Cornish
Treat Gift Baskets available in a range of prices. There are
unique Camel Valley Wines, Cornish Mead and Cider and
locally produced beers and liqueurs, with occasional
tastings on high days and holidays. Cornish tin and pewter
is seen in a wide variety of handsome jewellery that makes
a fine souvenir of a visit to Cornwall. CD’s cover the
spectrum of Cornish music, male voice choirs, brass
bands, sea shanty groups, folk, humour, dialect and the
traditional Cornish carols.
A trip to the Cornish Store – a light, airy space in a
GradeII listed 17th century building, is a must on any visit
to Falmouth – shop hours are 9.30am – 5.30pm Monday
to Saturday all year round and 11am – 4pm on Sundays
between Easter and Christmas. Shoppers who can’t get to
the Cornish Store can browse the excellent and
comprehensive websites and order on line, where, you can be assured, delivery is never Dreckly!

A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks
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46 The Countr y Living Guide to R ural England - Cor nwall 47

after the biblical character but after the local called, and in the village’s ancient churchyard
THE MARCH HARE

CORNWALL
businessman, Jacob Hamblen, who lie the graves of many sea captains. Also in the
20 Church Street, Falmouth, commissioned the steps. churchyard, by the south porch, stands a 10-
Cornwall TR11 3EG foot-high Celtic Cross, one of the tallest in
In recent years the town has become a
Tel: 01326 312106
thriving centre for the arts. The Poly in Cornwall. A further seven feet of the cross
Specialising in high quality
Church Street is a general arts centre; the extends underground.
ladies fashion, The March Hare
was one of the first Falmouth Art Gallery has a small but Just to the southwest of Mylor is another
“boutiques” to open in the interesting collection of contemporary art; the popular yachting centre, Flushing, which was
picturesque Cornish town of
Falmouth Arts Centre offers a varied given its distinctive look by Dutch settlers from
Falmouth. It first started
trading in 1967 and owner programme of film, drama, dance, recitals and Vlissingen who arrived here in the 17th century.
Angela Cortis has been here live music events; and the Princess Pavilion
since the beginning, which explains her good hospitality and expertise. hosts various shows during the season.
PENRYN
It is a real delight to shop in Falmouth, with its cobbled streets, independent shops and seaside 2 miles NE of Falmouth off the A39
location. It is an all year round working port and the town bustles with people in the summer
Pirates and smugglers were of course drawn
months. From the main shopping street there are side streets which lead down to the sea and so a to Falmouth. On Custom House Quay, stands A Glasney College of Priory
coastal view is never far away. an early 19th-century brick-built incinerator B Camborne School of Mines
Angela offers a large range of occasion wear for weddings, cruises and dances and caters for known as the Queen’s Pipe. It was here that
sizes 10 – 24. There is a beautiful selection of accessories such as hats, bags, scarves and
G The Penryn Tragedy
jewellery as well as shoes, and German and Danish casual wear. Tivoli, Zele, Peruzzi, Chianti,
contraband tobacco seized by Falmouth’s
customs men was burnt. Another unusual Penryn is perhaps one of the oldest towns in
Michaela Louisa and Steilmann are just some of the ranges stocked here.
memorial can be found on Fish Strand Quay; the Cornwall districts. It first was founded in
The staff members are extremely friendly and accommodating and take pleasure in ensuring
each visitor has an enjoyable experience. the tall granite obelisk here was erected in 1216; later being incorporated in 1621 by King
1852 as a memorial to the men of the Post James I. Before Falmouth’s rise to prominence
Office Packet Service, which delivered mail all in Tudor times, Penryn was the controlling
TYTO port at the mouth of Carrick Roads. At one
over the world in ‘packet boats’.
3 Tidemill House, Discovery Quay, Falmouth TR11 3XP time, granite quarried close by was shipped
From Falmouth’s busy harbour, ferries and
Tel: 01326 313260 from here all over the world, in fact, some of
cruise boats ply the local waters to St Mawes,
e-mail: gem@tytoboutique.co.uk the most prominent dwellings and world
website: www.tytoboutique.co.uk Flushing, Truro and other enticing
renowned monuments were built from the
destinations, and also offer whale and dolphin
Tyto can be found just footsteps from the National Maritime granite stone from Penryn; to name a few- the
Museum Cornwall, Falmouth, and stocks a tempting range of hand- spotting trips.
London Bridge and Singapore harbour.
picked products.
Centuries ago, the small port town served as
Founded in July 2009 and with a team of creative staff they
pride themselves on offering a space for local artists and Around Falmouth home and educational quarters for many
craftspeople to display their wares alongside great designer brands priests in training. The Glasney College of
like Marimekko.
MYLOR Priory was founded in the mid 12th century;
Always on the hunt for new and exciting treats they stock a
wide selection of clothing for ladies and gentlemen as well as 2 miles N of Falmouth off the A39 but later demolished in the 15th century.
desirable accessories, fabulous footwear and lovely gift and C Celtic Cross Today, visitors are permitted to view the relics
homewares. Currently in store there are delights from brands such of what is left of the famous college. Since
as Terra Plana, Emily and Fin, COMUNE, Gentle Fawn, Loreak The two attractive waterside villages of Mylor Penryn’s beginnings were built on education it
Mendian and Stolen Thunder to name a few! There are also a few
Churchtown and Mylor Bridge have now seemed only right when Penryn was asked to
carefully selected vintage treasures to look out for.
Tyto is a fantastic find at Discovery Quay in this bustling
blended into one another as a yachting and be the new home of the Institute of Cornish
fishing town, famous for its cobbled streets, the 16th century water sports centre. They are also home to the Studies and the University of Exeter’s world-
Pendennis Castle and thriving independent stores. last remaining fleet of oyster fishermen. It was renowned Camborne School of Mines. One
Open Tuesday to Saturday 10-6 and Sunday to Monday 12-4. at Mylor Churchtown that the packet ships of the specialists in mining education, Robert
A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks
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JUST DELIGHTS HIGHER ROSEVINE FARM

CORNWALL
Commercial Road, Penryn, nr Falmouth, Rosevine, Portscatho, Truro, Cornwall TR2 5EW
Cornwall TR10 8AQ Tel: 01872 580247
Tel: 01326 379075 e-mail: info@higherrosevinefarm.co.uk
e-mail: justdelights@hotmail.co.uk website: www.higherrosevinefarm.co.uk
website: www.justdelights.co.uk These 4-star, thoughtfully converted and equipped barns at
The owner of Just Delights, Gemma Guilmard, did what many Higher Rosevine Farm both sleep up to 4 people in a twin and
people do – came to Cornwall and fell in love with the place. In double room. The perfect location for those seeking the peace
Gemma’s case, though, she loved it so much she moved here and convenience of a coastal and rural position. With sandy
and opened her truly delightful and unique shop four years ago. Porthcunick beach and the S.W.Coast Path on your doorstep,
What makes Just Delights different is the range of pottery you’ll enjoy your stay even more knowing that both barns
from Poland that it stocks. More specifically the pottery and have been designed on sustainable principals to help preserve
ceramics come from the historic town of Boleslawiec in south- the unspoilt beauty of the Roseland Peninsular. Surrounded by
west Poland, the town where the first Polish pottery was natural beauty and wildlife you can wake up spoilt for choice
made some 500 years ago. Today the industry still thrives, as to which breathtaking walk to take, quiet beach, harbour
and the traditional local clay is what makes these items truly village, restaurant or famous garden to visit.
unique. The beautiful ivory and blue baking dishes could be Choose single storey Smugglers Barn, suitable for those
used purely for display, although they are also fully safe for not wanting stairs, or Wreckers Barn with the bedrooms
use in microwaves, ovens and dishwashers. For smaller gifts there are jugs, coffee-pots, salt and upstairs. The combination of rustic charm and modern
pepper pots, or mugs and cups, all in the same lovely Polish style. technology provides each with open-plan living, dining, well equipped kitchen, wet room, under
The range of items in Just Delights has now expanded and includes vintage furniture, cards and floor heating and shared courtyard for al fresco dining. TV, DVD, dishwasher, fridge, microwave,
soft toys for children, as well as herb drawers that are truly irresistible. hob, and oven as standard, so you can be as creative or lazy with food as desired on your self-
catering holiday. The ideal escape for families, walkers, mariners, beach and garden lovers. You
won’t be bored, do as much or as little as you like. Sorry no pets.
Hunt, is remembered here in the school’s The Penryn Tragedy. After years at sea, a
impressive Geological Museum and Art young sailor from Penryn returned home to
TREWITHIAN FARM
Gallery, which displays minerals and rocks his parents’ Bohelland Barn and, as a joke, he
from all over the world. disguised himself as a rich man but not before Portscatho, Truro, Cornwall TR2 5EJ
Penryn was the home of Thomas Pellow telling his sister of his plan. His parents, Tel: 01872 580293
(born circa 1704) who spent two decades as a overcome with temptation on meeting this e-mail: enquiries@trewithian-farm.co.uk
rich stranger, murdered the young man for his website: www.trewithian-farm.co.uk
white slave in Morroco. Pirates captured him
money. Next morning, the sister came in Trewithian Farm is a grand 400-year-old ivy-clad stone
in 1715 when he was just 11-years-old. He
house which manages to be both a working farm and to
stayed 23 years as a captive before escaping search of her brother and the full horror of have earned a prestigious 4 star from Visit England for its
back to England. Pellow’s story is told in his their crime caused her parents to commit luxurious accommodation. It couldn’t have a better
autobiography, “The History of the Long suicide. The particulars connected with this location, on Cornwall’s beautiful Roseland peninsula, a
peaceful area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, yet only 10
Captivity and Adventures of Thomas Pellow” horrid deed, were preserved in a small
minutes from St Mawes where a passenger ferry takes
(1740) and in “White Gold: The Extraordinary pamphlet, which was published in 1618, the you right to Falmouth’s bustling harbour. This is famous
Story of Thomas Pellow and Islam’s One same year the event is said to have taken place, as one of the three deepest harbours in the world, and
however this curious pamphlet does not the deepest in Western Europe.
Million White Slaves” (2007) by Giles Milton.
Trewithian has six bedrooms – two family rooms, two
A fascinating insight into the local history can appear to be in existence.
twin rooms and two double rooms, with one of the
be found at the town museum, located under doubles having an adjoining single room too. They are all
PORTSCATHO
the town hall. either ensuite or have their own private adjoining bathrooms, while guests can also enjoy their own
4½ miles NE of Falmouth off the A3078 private lounge, the dining room, and the farmhouse grounds. Trewithian is also open all-year, and
Another reminder of the town’s maritime in the winter months a hearty home-cooked evening meal is available on request, or you can dine in
past is the illusive tale of a family wiped out This pleasant, unspoilt fishing village with its one of the pubs in the nearby villages, or in St Mawes. In summer there are the nearby sandy
through greed and forms the basis of the play, sandy beach on Gerrans Bay, may appear beaches of Carne and Pendower, making Trewithian ideal for family holidays too.

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were detained. Its opening is

THE OLIVE GROVE Mawes Castle

CORNWALL
now covered by glass.
Cornish Garden Nurseries, From the town, ferries
Barras Moor Farm,
take passengers across the
Perranarworthal, Truro,
Cornwall TR3 7PE river to Falmouth and,
Tel: 01872 870867 during the summer, a boat
e-mail: theolivegrove@live.co.uk also takes passengers down
website: www.the-olive-grove.co.uk the river to the remote and
unspoilt area of Roseland
FULLY LICENSED TRADITIONAL BISTRO
around St Anthony. From St
Anthony Head, the
THE OLIVE GROVE Bistro/Café has a real old southernmost tip of the
fashioned feel to it, incorporating a Delicatessen,
Roseland peninsula, there
Farm Shop, offering home cooked food and local
produce (Organic where possible). are wonderful views across
Set within the wonderful surroundings of Cornish familiar to anyone who watched the TV Carrick Roads. At the foot of the headland
Garden Nurseries, Barras Moor Estate, drama, The Camomile Lawn, for which it stands St Anthony’s Lighthouse, built in
Perranarworthal, Stocking fabulous items for the
provided a scenic location. To the west, at 1834 to warn sailors off the notorious
home, including flowers, cushions, paintings, etc!
Hand crafted jewellery, garden paraphernalia & St Just in Roseland, stands an exquisite Manacles rocks. It is open to the public
much more! With outside seating in a peaceful 13th-century church, surrounded by gardens during the season.
oasis surrounded by Mediterranean trees. containing many subtropical trees and shrubs
Open 7 days a week from 10am -5.30 Monday to
An excellent starting point for a number of
Sunday, offering Breakfast Lunch & High Tea with
first planted by the botanist John Treseder at coastal walks, St Anthony’s Head, owned by
Gluten wheat & dairy free options available, the end of the 19th century. the National Trust, also provides a scenic
choice of two organic meats with seasonal veg
with all the trimmings, vegetarian & vegan options ST MAWES
available for Sunday Lunch. 2 miles E of Falmouth by ferry, on the A3078
Now Open for evening bookings on Thursday,
Friday and Saturday from 6pm - Midnight A St Mawes Castle A St Anthony’s Lighthouse
D St Anthony’s Head
“OLIVE GROVE EVENTS! A purpose built marquee
is available for hire for functions of all This charming town, a popular and exclusive
descriptions. Whether you’re looking for a creative
sailing centre in the shelter of Carrick Roads,
corporate, fundraising event, a weeding or bar
mitzvah planner, we’ll put together a worry free is dominated by its pristine Tudor fort,
spectacular affair that will please all!... St Mawes Castle (English Heritage). Built in
the 1540s as part of Henry VIII’s coastal
defences, it is a fine example of Tudor
military architecture. The castle’s cloverleaf,
or trefoil, design ensured that, whatever the
direction of an attack, the castle could
defend itself. However, a shot was never fired
from here in anger. Today visitors can look
around the Tudor interiors, which are in
remarkably good condition, and shudder at
the oubliette - a deep shaft where prisoners St Anthony’s Lighthouse

A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks
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52 The Countr y Living Guide to R ural England - Cor nwall 53

setting for the remains of a military battery in enjoy the famous Heade Maze, created in
DELI-CIOUS OF ST MAWES

CORNWALL
use right up until the 1950s. 1833 from laurels, as well as the Giant’s
1/2 The Arcade, St Mawes, Truro, Cornwall, TR2 5DT St Mawes itself provides a good base from Stride – a maypole.
Tel: 01326 270045
which to explore the Roseland Peninsula, an To the southeast, the tower of the
Claire and James Brown bought Deli-cious 4 years ago with the aim of
buying only the best of West Country foods. They have learned to enchanting area of narrow lanes and 15th-century church at Mawnan has been a
appreciate local foods and their cheeses, crabs, scallops and fish truly are waterside villages. local landmark for sailors for centuries. An
a joy to cook and serve. Local early vegetables are made into soups,
preserves, chutneys and pickles which are enhanced by Italian Olive Oils
excellent place from which to take in the
and flavoured stuffed olives. To complete your fantastic culinary experience, a range of fine wines and
ST KEVERNE sweeping coastline, the tower was also used as
chocolate are also available. Deli-cious offer a hamper service for Christmas, birthdays and other 12 miles SE of Falmouth off the B3293 a lookout post during times of war.
occasions all made from their exciting selection of local and home-made produce.
Something of a focal point on this part of the Further up Helford Passage is the tiny
THE SQUARE GALLERY Lizard Peninsula, the pleasant village of St fishing hamlet of Durgan, along with the sub-
5 The Arcade, St Mawes, Nr Truro, Cornwall TR2 5DT Keverne is rare in Cornwall in that it has a tropical Trebah Garden that has often been
Tel: 01326 270720 handsome village square. Its elevated position dubbed the ‘garden of dreams’. On a 25-acre
e-mail: squaregallery@mac.com website: www.thesquaregallery.co.uk has led to its octagonal church spire being used site that falls down to a private beach on the
The Square Gallery with its beautiful harbour front location is much more than a as a landmark for ships attempting to negotiate Helford Estuary, the owner at the time,
place to hang paintings. Every inch of the cosy interior is occupied with an
eclectic mix of individually selected arts and crafts, the majority of which are the treacherous rocks, The Manacles, which lie Charles Fox, set out to create a garden of rare
from Cornish artists. Painted silk scarves drape alongside collages and abstracts, offshore. In the churchyard, there are some 400 and exotic plants and trees collected from
hand-crafted jewellery twinkles next to boldly painted local scenes, ceramics
and figurines line the walls beneath oil paintings and watercolours. There truly is
graves of those who have fallen victim to this around the world. Reaching maturity in the
a treasure for everyone and all can feel comfortable to browse for that unique dangerous reef. early 1930s, and regarded at the time as one of
piece of art. The Square Gallery is open from 10.30am to 5pm daily. the most beautiful in England, the garden was
Just outside the village a statue
PHILIP MARTIN ESTATE AGENTS commemorates the 500th anniversary of the sold in 1939. There followed some 40 years of
3 The Arcade, St Mawes, Truro, Cornwall, TR2 5DT Cornish Rebellion of 1497, one of whose neglect before a massive restoration
Tel: 01326 270008 Fax: 01872 264007 leaders was a blacksmith from St Keverne, programme in the 1980s returned it to its
e-mail: sales@philip-martin.co.uk website: www.philip-martin.co.uk while the church has a plaque in memory of original impressive state.
Opening the doors to their St Mawes office in 2007 Philip Martin is the only the executed rebel leaders. Although St
independent qualified Estate Agent in St Mawes. Coupled with the successful HELFORD
Keverne has been dominated by the sea for
office in Truro which was established in 1986 the partners Philip Martin, Steven 6 miles S of Falmouth off the B3293
Jenkin and James Harvey along with their professional dedicated team offer advice and proactive marketing centuries, its agricultural heritage is continued
on all matters relating to property sales and purchases as well as advice on letting, auctions, valuations, in the ancient custom of Crying the Neck. It J Helford River Walk
planning, development and legal matters. With all partners having a strong Cornish background and over 70
years combined experience in the local property market the firm offers a high quality professional and was believed that the corn spirit resided in the A picture-postcard village standing on the
personal service that is backed by the Royal Institution of Chartered Surveyors. last wheat sheaf cut, so this was plaited and secluded tree-lined southern banks of the
hung over the fireplace until spring. Helford estuary, Helford must have one of the
LOOK AGAIN ANTIQUES & COUNTRY
FURNITURE most attractive settings in the whole of the
MAWNAN SMITH
county. It was once the haunt of smugglers
4 The Arcade, St Mawes, Truro, Cornwall TR2 5DT 3 miles S of Falmouth off the A39
Tel: 01326 270988 Fax: 01326 270792 who took advantage of the estuary’s many
E Glendurgan Garden E Trebah Garden isolated creeks, one of which inspired Daphne
For over 4 years Ken Walkers’ harbour front shop has been brimming
over with a wide range of beautiful furniture from many a different Just to the west of this pretty village is du Maurier’s novel Frenchman’s Creek. She had
era. Inside the shop is treasure trove of collectable curiosities and spent her honeymoon in the area and the book
small antique items nestled atop and alongside larger pieces such as
Glendurgan Garden (National Trust),
chairs, tables and dressers. All tastes and periods are catered for created in the 1820s in a wonderful wooded is her only romantic novel.
amongst the vast range which frequently spills out of the front of shop creating a pavement display of
valley that drops down to the shores of the Helford town is now a popular sailing
furniture history. So whether you are looking for that vital piece to finish a special room or a unique gift
for a loved one, a trip to Look Again Antiques & Country Furniture is not to be missed! Ken also runs a Helford estuary. The garden contains many centre. During the summer, it is linked to
cycle hire business from his store, with all the bicyles outside. fine trees and exotic plants, and children will Helford Passage, on the northern bank, by a

A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks
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54 The Countr y Living Guide to R ural England - Cor nwall 55

ferry that has been in existence since the important commercial port in the 13th century
BURDOCK VEAN HOTEL

CORNWALL
Middle Ages. The deep tidal creeks in the area after Helston harbour became silted up. The
Budock Vean Hotel, nr Helford have given rise to rumours that this is the same fate befell Gweek years later although it
Passage, Mawnan Smith, Falmouth, home of Morgawr, the legendary Helford retains its links with its maritime past and the
Cornwall TR11 5LG
monster. The first recorded sighting of old harbour area is very much alive with craft
Tel: 01326 252100
website: www.budockvean.co.uk Morgawr was in 1926 and ever since then shops and small boatyards.
there have been numerous people who claim Just a short distance from the centre of the
The Budock Vean Hotel is a four-star
country house hotel, set in 65 to have seen this “hideous, hump-backed village along the north side of the creek, is the
beautiful acres on the beautiful creature with stumpy horns”. National Seal Sanctuary (see panel below),
Helford river. Awarded Considerate
From the village, the five-mile Helford the country’s leading marine rescue centre
Hotel of the Year 2010 it boasts its own golf course, tennis courts, large indoor pool, health spa
and award winning restaurant. River Walk takes in several isolated hamlets established over 40 years ago. The sanctuary
The hotel’s superb restaurant offers an excellent and varied cuisine using local produce. Fresh and a 200-year-old fig tree in the churchyard at cares for sick, injured and orphaned seals.
seafood and Cornish cream teas are naturally among the specialities. You’ll find an atmosphere of Manaccan before returning to the tearooms Visitors can witness the joyful antics of the
calm here, which allows you the space to recharge your batteries, spend some time with good and pubs of Helford. seals at feeding time and explore the
friends or simply indulge yourself.
The rich mud of the Helford River, Woodland Nature Quest around an ancient
Out in the fresh air, the James Braid golf course beckons. From the front door, walkers can
explore the river to Rosemullion Head or Porth Navas, across the river via ferry to Helford Village revealed at low tide, is a wonderful feeding coppiced wood.
and Frenchman’s Creek or wander along to nearby Trebah and Glendurgan gardens. ground for many birds including heron,
The spectacular indoor heated pool with its open log fire and sauna is warm and welcoming HELSTON
cormorant and curlew, while the ancient
during the winter and in summer. The health spa offers a full range of massage and aromatherapy 10 miles SW of Falmouth on the A394
treatments including Spiezia 100% organic spa range. Awards: Four-star AA and ETB.
natural woodlands along the shores support a
wealth of plants and wildlife. A Blue Anchor Inn A Angel Hotel
A The Monument B Helston Folk Museum
GWEEK
SOUTH WEST INTERIORS – I Festival of the Furry E Trevarno Estate
8 miles SW of Falmouth off the A394
TREVARN BED AND BREAKFAST B National Museum of Gardening
E National Seal Sanctuary
Trevarn, Carwinion Road, Mawnan Smith, Falmouth, I Flambards E Loe Pool F Lady of the Lake
Cornwall TR11 5JD Tel: 01326 251245 Set at the head of the Helford River, the
picturesque village of Gweek developed as an Dating back to Roman times when it was
e-mail: enquiries@trevarn.co.uk
website: www.trevarn.co.uk
The picturesque village of Mawnan Smith is home to the
beautifully decorated Trevarn Bed and Breakfast. Friendly
National Seal Sanctuary
owners Melanie and Geoffrey have their own interior design Gweek, near Helston, Cornwall TR12 6UG
company, South West Interiors, and so the whole place is Tel: 01326 221361
tastefully decorated and furnished.
website: www.sealsanctuary.co.uk
The bed and breakfast is set in an idyllic location with
spectacular rural views. Being in the heart of Rosamund The National Seal Sanctuary, set on the picturesque reaches of the
Pilcher and Daphne du Maurier country, nowhere in the Duchy Helford Estuary, is a haven for some of the world’s most
is more than an hour away. enchanting creatures. Every year the sanctuary rescues,
There are three well equipped guest rooms available here, rehabilitates and releases over 30 injured or abandoned seal pups.
with one double, one twin and a single room. Each of the Following all the care and attention in the seal hospital, the pups
rooms has its own private bathroom and two are located on are transferred to the convalescence pools once they are well
the ground floor, with easy access for disabled visitors. Ring for details. enough and able to feed. In these pools they build up their
Trevarn is perfectly situated for walking the coastal path, with the Helford River just down the strength before returning to the wild. By getting involved with the
road at Carwinion, and the coastal path ten minutes’ walk away at Nansidwell beach. Carwinion adoption scheme, your valuable contribution would directly benefit
Gardens can be found opposite the guest house, which is in a quiet location, with wonderful views
the seals in their recovery and, in most cases, eventual release.
down to Mawnan Smith village and Maenporth.

A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks
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56 The Countr y Living Guide to R ural England - Cor nwall 57

developed as a port, Helston is the provided funds for the parish church to be
THE ANGEL HOTEL

CORNWALL
westernmost of Cornwall’s five medieval rebuilt after the previous structure had been
stannary towns. During the Middle Ages, tin struck by lightning and had to be demolished. 16 Coinage Hall Street, Helston, Cornwall TR13 8EB
was brought here for assaying and taxing In the churchyard stands a memorial to Henry Tel: 01326 569393
website: www.theangelhotel-helston.co.uk
before being shipped. However, in the 13th Trengrouse, the Helston man who invented
Dating back to the 16th century, The Angel Hotel was once the town
century a shingle bar formed across the mouth the rocket-propelled safety line that has saved
house of Lord Sidney Godolphin who was First Minister to three
of the River Cober, cutting off the port’s so many lives around the British coast. monarchs. Later, it became a noted coaching inn and has been offering
access to the sea. Helston’s long history has Elsewhere, there are a surprising number of hospitality for more than 250 years. Under new management, it has
left it with a legacy of interesting buildings. Georgian, Regency and Victorian buildings, recently been refurbished and has an elegant restaurant offering
traditional meals and daily specials; a public bar and a superb lounge with
The Blue Anchor Inn was a hostel for which all help to give Helston a quaint and weekly live entertainment; and a splendid Function Room/Ballroom with
monks before becoming an inn during the genteel air. One of the most striking a minstrel’s gallery catering for up to 150 guests. The hotel also offers
15th century. It has its own private brewery, architectural features in the town is The comfortable accommodation in 13 double bedrooms, all with en suite
facilities and beautifully appointed. The hotel ideally located in the heart
believed to be the oldest in the country. It’s at Monument in Coinagehall Street. A large arch
of the high street of Helston, famous for its Floral Day and Furry Dance held in early May.
the rear of the inn, next to the old skittle alley, bristling with pinnacles, it was erected in 1834 There are two sister hotels - The White Hart Hotel in Hayle and the Union Hotel in Penzance
and its beer, Spingo, comes in three strengths. in memory of Humphrey Millet Grylls, a local (see pages 11 and 22).
Another hostelry, the 16th-century Angel banker and solicitor who was instrumental in
Hotel (see panel opposite), was originally the saving the local tin mine from closing and thus Floral Dance, a colourful festival
town house of the Godolphin family, but was preserving 1200 jobs. of music and dance, does bring
converted into a hotel in the mid 1700s. Housed in one of the town’s old market people here in droves. The origins
Around that time, the Earl of Godolphin halls, close to the classical 19th-century of the name are unknown, but it is
clear that the festival has
connections with ancient pagan
INSPIRATIONS
spring celebrations as it is held on
11 Wendron Street, Helston, 8 May. The climax of the
Cornwall TR13 8PT
celebration is the midday dance
Tel: 01326 572335
when invited participants wearing
e-mail: paula.inspirations@google mail.com
top hat, tails and dress gowns,
Established by Paula Hendra in 2006, Inspirations
provides exactly that - unusual and quirky gifts for all Grylls Monumnet weave in and out of shops, houses
ages and pockets. They range from silver and costume and gardens.
jewellery, to handbags, scarves and accessories. There’s Guildhall, is the Helston Folk Museum, Just to the northwest of the town lies
an excellent selection of cards, along with some
fascinating toys, soaps and bath bombs. Suppliers include
which covers many aspects of the town’s and Trevarno Estate and Gardens (see panel on
Gisela Graham (interior décor), Jelly cat (soft toys and the local area’s history. The displays range page 56) – “the best excuse anyone could
furnishings), East of India (hand-made cards and gifts), from archaeological finds and mineral possibly want to go to Cornwall” according to
Vendula and Stone Bags (handbags and shoes),, Koziol specimens to the reconstruction of a The Times. This beautiful estate stocked with
(bathroom accessories) and Terramundi (money pots).
blacksmith’s shop, an 18th-century cider mill many rare shrubs and trees has a long history
Helston itself is an ancient town which is best known
for its Floral Dance which takes place on May 8th and and a farm wagon from 1901. stretching back to 1296 when Randolphus de
attracts visitors from around the world. Many of the Still very much a market town serving much Trevarno first gave the land its name. Over the
buildings in the town are built in the typical granite. The
of the Lizard Peninsula, Helston has managed intervening centuries the gardens and grounds
Inspirations shop is in this traditional style and stands on
the same street where the famous world champion to escape from the mass tourism that has have been developed and extended so that,
heavyweight boxer Bob Fitzsimmons was born in 1863. A affected many other Cornish towns. However, today, Trevarno is known as one of the finest
plaque on his family’s cottage in Wendron Street commemorates his achievements. the famous Helston Festival of the Furry, or gardens in a county with a great gardening

A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks
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58 The Countr y Living Guide to R ural England - Cor nwall 59

helicopters can be observed. In early August rogue, Jan Tregeagle, who was set the task of
Trevarno Estate and Gardens

CORNWALL
each year the base hosts Cornwall’s largest weaving a rope from its sand as a punishment.
Trevarno, Crowntown, nr Helston, Cornwall TR13 0RU one-day annual event, the Culdrose Air Day,
Tel: 01326 574274 Fax: 01326 574282 which includes a five-hour flying display and MULLION
e-mail: info@trevarno.co.uk attracts aircraft from around 20 countries.
12 miles SW of Falmouth on the B3296
website: www.trevarno.co.uk When in the 13th century the shingle bar D Mullion Cove G Guglielmo Marconi
The jewel in the crown, at the heart of the estate, is formed to the west of Helston and dammed B Future World @ Goonhilly
70 acres of enchanting gardens and grounds featuring
the River Cober, it created the largest
one of Cornwall’s largest and most diverse plant The largest settlement on the peninsula,
freshwater lake in Cornwall, Loe Pool. This is
collections set within magnificent formal, informal and Mullion has a 15th-century church and a 16th-
woodland areas. The gardens include numerous now owned by the National Trust and is a
century inn and is an ideal base from which to
specimen shrubs and trees, a stunning bluebell valley, haven for sea birds as well as waterfowl such
explore this remarkable part of Cornwall. A
ornamental lake with picturesque Victorian Boathouse as mallard, mute swan, coot, teal and
mile to the east lies the pretty, weather-worn
and formal cascade, Sunken Italian Garden, red-necked grebe. A Cornish folk tale links
Serpentine Yew Tunnel, extensive Pinetum, Bamboo
harbour of Mullion Cove (National Trust),
Loe Pool with the Arthurian legend of the
collection, atmospheric Rockery and Grotto, the Great and just up the coast is the popular sandy
Lady of the Lake – Tennyson himself
Lawn and Summer Terrace and many other beach of Poldhu Cove. It was from the
interesting features.
favoured this site. As at Bodmin Moor’s
clifftops above the beach in 1901 that the
A remarkable celebration of Britain’s gardening
Dozmary Pool, a hand is said to have risen
radio pioneer, Guglielmo Marconi,
heritage can be found in the National Museum of from the depths of the water to catch the
transmitted the first wireless message across
Gardening, which features the country’s largest and most comprehensive collection of dying King Arthur’s sword. Another local
the Atlantic. His Morse signal, the letter s
gardening antiques, memorabilia and ephemera.A wide range of handmade soaps and skincare story connects Loe Bar with the legendary
repeated three times, was received in St John’s,
products are produced using the purest plant oils and materials available and visitors can sample
the products, which are available for sale, in the Organic Herbal Workshop. Refreshments are
available in the Fountain Garden Conservatory and there is a childrens adventure play are. A SAVOY HOUSE GALLERY & HOLIDAY ACCOMMODATION
2km walk takes you through the estate and offers excellent views.
Churchtown, Mullion,
Cornwall TR12 7HQ
tradition. The estate’s National Museum of Anderson Shelter and a wartime pub. Wedding Tel: 01326 241271
Gardening complements the grounds and Fashions Down the Years features a romantic e-mail: art.object@virgin.net
highlights the ingenuity of gardeners down assembly of changing styles with a collection website: www.savoyhouse.co.uk
the ages by the range of gardening of wedding dresses and wedding cakes from Located in a traditional double-fronted
implements exhibited. Other attractions here 1870 to 1970. Rides and slides keep the Victorian house in the centre of the
village of Mullion on the Lizard
include Soap and Skincare Workshops; a youngsters happy, and for older children and
Peninsula, you will find Savoy House
Vintage Soap Museum; the Colin Gregory Toy adults the figure-of-eight karting circuit Gallery. Owned and run by Amanda
Museum; an adventure play area; a provides the opportunity to put driving skills Hopkins, the shop offers for sale well-
conservatory serving refreshments and a shop. to the test. chosen quality gifts, jewellery (costume
and silver) and other ladies’ accessories.
To the east of the town lies another Close by is the Royal Navy’s land and sea Amanda has been here for around
interesting and award-winning family rescue headquarters at Culdrose, the largest three years and has established a lovely business, having previously worked in retail in London for
attraction, Flambards. Based around a faithful and busiest helicopter base in Europe. Since many years.
re-creation of a lamp-lit Victorian street, the base was established here in 1947 as Scarves, hand bags and purses are just some of the delightful products on sale in this spacious,
airy and well stocked shop. Local ceramics and some local art work are available at Savoy House
complete with more than 50 shops, it has HMS Seahawk, it has carried out a great many
Gallery, which is open every day in the summer season, (winter opening times vary).
numerous attractions for all the family. successful search and rescue operations. There Above the gallery is a comfortable two bedroom holiday apartment (sleeping four), which has
Exhibits include an undercover life-size re- are guided tours and a special viewing area been decorated to a high standard. The apartment is available all year round. There are two free car
creation of a World War Two blitzed street, an from which the comings and goings of the parks in Mullion and on-street parking outside the shop.

A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks
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Newfoundland, quelling the doubts of the attractive residential terraces and fishermen’s feared that they would lose a

CORNWALL
many who said that radio waves could not cottages. A popular and attractive town, regular source of income from
bend round the Earth’s curvature. In 1905 a Porthleven is gaining a gastronomic reputation looting wrecked ships. It now
daily news service for ships was inaugurated, on account of the many excellent restaurants, houses a light that is one of the
and in 1910 a message from Poldhu to the cafés and inns to be found in such a small area. most powerful in the world.
SS Montrose led to the arrest of the murderer It also has a top quality fishmonger’s shop Just to the northeast of
Dr Crippen. A small granite obelisk, the located on the quayside. Lizard is the picturesque
Marconi Monument, was unveiled on the site fishing village of Cadgwith,
of the wireless station by his daughter after LIZARD
wedged in a rocky cove with
the inventor’s death. 14 miles SW of Falmouth on the A3083
fishing boats drawn up on the
Just a couple of miles inland, on the J South West Coast Path D Kynance Cove beach. With its cluster of pastel
windswept heathland of Goonhilly Downs, is Lizard is a place of craft shops, cafés and art coloured thatched cottages and
a monument to the very latest in galleries and lends its name to the Lizard two shingle beaches, it is
telecommunications – Future World @ Peninsula, the most southerly point of everyone’s idea of a typical Lifeboat Station, Lizard
Goonhilly. It is the largest such station in the mainland Britain and also the country’s Cornish village. Life has not
world and there have been few world events warmest area. Just 14 miles by 14 miles, the always been so peaceful here.
that have not been monitored through here peninsula’s unique scenery has caused it to be Throughout the 19th century, this was a busy the 15th century. It has now re-opened as the
since it opened in the 1960s. The guided tour designated an Area of Outstanding Natural pilchard fishing centre. In 1904, a record Poldark Mine Heritage Complex. Visitors
around the station, which takes in all manner Beauty. The South West Coast Path follows catch of nearly 1.8 million pilchards was to this interesting attraction can take an
of telecommunications, including the internet the coastline, much of which is cared for by landed in just four days. A small fleet of underground tour of the tunnels, see the
and videophone links, is a fascinating and the National Trust, and provides many boats still sails from here, though their catch famous 18th-century Poldark village and
rewarding experience. opportunities for walkers of all abilities. In now is mainly lobster, crab, shark and mullet. wander around the machinery exhibits, some
particular, there is a nine-mile, sometimes Nearby is the curiously named Devil’s Frying of which are in working order. For a small
PORTHLEVEN Pan, a collapsed sea cave with a spectacular charge, you can also try your hand at panning
strenuous, walk to Mullion that takes in some
12 miles SW of Falmouth on the B3304 blow-hole in the cliff. for gold.
of the most spectacular scenery as well as
This pleasant fishing town developed from a passing lowland Britain’s largest National To the northwest is the famous beauty
small village in the 19th century. In 1811, Nature Reserve. spot, Kynance Cove, whose marvellous Truro
London industrialists employed French The Lizard is also known for its unique sandy beach and dramatic offshore rock
A Lemon Street A Truro Cathedral
prisoners-of-war to build a three-section Serpentine rock, a green mineral that became formations have been a favoured destination
harbour, which is arguably the most impressive ever since Prince Albert visited here with his B Royal Cornwall Museum
fashionable in the 19th century after Queen
in Cornwall. They planned to export tin and Victoria visited Cornwall and ordered many children in 1846. The cove is the site of the This elegant small city at the confluence of
china clay and import mining machinery, and items made from the stone for her house, largest outcrop of the Lizard Peninsula’s three rivers – Tri-veru in Cornish – is the
also to protect the growing fishing fleet. Sadly, Osborne, on the Isle of Wight. The village is curious Serpentine rock and there are caves administrative and ecclesiastical centre of
this scheme to establish Porthleven as a major still the centre for polishing and fashioning the to the west of the cove that can be explored, Cornwall. The city expanded from its ancient
tin-exporting centre failed, but today the stone into souvenirs and objets d’art. with care, at low tide. roots in medieval times following the
harbour is still busy with small fishing boats To the south of the village is Lizard Point, prosperity originating from local mineral
landing their daily catch. A number of the WENDRON
the tip of the peninsula, whose three sides are extractions. It was one of the first towns to be
town’s old industrial buildings have been 8½ miles W of Falmouth on the B3297
lashed by waves whatever the season. There granted the rights of stannary (regulation of
converted into handsome craft galleries, has been a form of lighthouse here since the C Poldark Mine Heritage Complex the tin trade), and several small medieval
restaurants and shops, and the charming old early 1600s. The present Lighthouse was built Close to this bleak village is one of the many alleyways act as a reminder of those busy
harbour is overlooked by an assortment of in 1751 despite protests from locals who mines that have been worked in this area since times before the silting up of the river saw

A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks
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summer, concerts are held here. The park’s

THE SHOE TREE

CORNWALL
peaceful atmosphere is occasionally disturbed
9 St Mary’s Street, Truro, Cornwall TR1 2AF by a train rumbling over the majestic granite
Tel: 01872 320094 viaduct nearby. Originally built by Isambard
e-mail: downiedo@hotmail.com
Kingdom Brunel, but replaced in 1904, the
Truro is an elegant little city where three rivers meet, with
viaduct carries the main line from
gracious Georgian streets and a Cathedral. It became a city when
Cornwall was granted its own Bishop in 1877 and work began on Paddington to Penzance.
the Cathedral in 1880. In the shadow of the Cathedral, on a corner During the summer months, river cruises to
site in St Mary’s Street, Michelle Downie owns and runs the Shoe Tree,
Falmouth and St Mawes are available.
which sells a wide range of high-quality footwear for men and women,
along with designer leather goods and luxury accessories. Some of the
footwear brands have been household names for many years, while others
FEOCK
are new on the scene, but all have quality and reliability in common, and 4 miles S of Truro off the B3289
all have the seal of approval from Michelle Downie, herself an
A Smugglers Cottage A Trelissick
accomplished footwear designer.
Sebago is best known for its Dockside range, introduced in 1970 and This is one of the prettiest small villages in
now available in a range of colours and limited edition designs. The name of Cornwall and there is a pleasant creek-side
Barkers, founded in 1880, is synonymous with classic British shoe design,
and their shoes are still made by traditional methods, including uppers walk to the west. This follows the course of
shaped on the last by hand. Van Dal is a Norwich-based firm making a wide range of ladies’ shoes an old tramway, which dates from the time
and boots that incorporate many comfort features. Mary G makes shoes for casual, everyday and when this area was a bustling port. To the
special occasion wear, often distinguished by vibrant colours and luxurious fabrics. Other brands
south of the village is Restronguet Point and
include Vic, Manila and Audley, and among the accessories sold by the Shoe Tree are sunglasses by
Dior and Gucci, scarves and handbags. Trading hours are 10 to 5 Monday to Saturday. Truro Cathedral the 17th-century Pandora Inn, named after
the ship sent out to capture the mutineers
complete. Outside, the cathedral’s three spires from the Bounty.
Truro decline as a port and be overtaken by hosts various events such as the regular Arts, soar high above a city in which high-rise From Tolverne, just north of Feock, Allied
Falmouth. It was a fashionable place, rivalling Crafts and Food Markets and the popular buildings are still very much the exception. troops left for the Normandy coast during the
Bath in the 18th century, and the short-lived Made in Cornwall Fairs. Housed in one of Truro’s fine Georgian D-day landings. On the shingle beach the
recovery in mineral prices at that time saw the The arrival of the railway in 1859 confirmed buildings, the Royal Cornwall Museum and remains of the concrete honeycombed
creation of the gracious Georgian streets and Truro’s status as the regional capital. In 1877, Art Gallery covers the history of the county mattresses can still be seen. While in the area,
houses that are still so attractive today – it became a city in its own right when the from the Stone Age to the present day. General Eisenhower stayed at Smugglers
Lemon Street in particular is regarded as one diocese of Exeter was divided and Cornwall Amongst its treasures are some early Bronze Cottage, a lovely Grade II listed thatched
of the finest surviving Georgian streets in the was granted its own bishop. The foundation Age collars of beaten gold and the coffin of cottage, which is now a licensed tearoom
country. Overlooking Lemon Street is a lofty stone of Truro Cathedral was laid by the Ast Tayef Nakht dating from around 675BC, serving lunches and cream teas in its
memorial column to the African explorers future Edward VII in 1880. This splendid complete with unwrapped mummy. The Art riverside garden. Its owners have amassed a
Richard and John Lander who were born in Early English style building, with its celebrated Gallery, one of 10 scattered around the city, fascinating collection of memorabilia relating
Truro and who in the 1830s mapped the Victorian stained glass window, was finally displays fine art from the Newlyn School to to that period.
course of the River Niger. completed in 1910. Remnants of the earlier the present day. Close by lies the estate of Trelissick, a
Nearby is one of the city’s most recent Perpendicular-style church that was The city has two major parks. The larger, grand 18th-century house with an imposing
developments, Lemon Quay. It occupies the demolished to make way for the cathedral Boscawen Park, sits beside the Truro River; columned portico, surrounded by marvellous
site of the original quay, which was covered include St Mary’s Aisle and some striking Victoria Gardens, originally created to gardens and parkland with wonderful views
over in 1923 and still remains beneath the Jacobean tombs. A curiosity in the south aisle commemorate Queen Victoria’s Diamond over Carrick Roads. Although the house is not
surface. Above it, the pedestrianised piazza is is a matchstick model of the building that Jubilee, is filled with exotic trees, shrubs and open to the public, the estate, which is owned
busy with bars, restaurants and cafés, and took 1600 hours and some 42,000 matches to flowers. On Sunday afternoons in the by the National Trust, offers visitors tranquil

A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks
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64 The Countr y Living Guide to R ural England - Cor nwall 65

gardens of exotic plants and the chance to Although china clay has dominated CHARLESTOWN

CORNWALL
walk along miles of paths through its St Austell since it was first discovered, and is 1 mile SE of St Austell off the
extensive park and woodland beside the River still, despite fierce foreign competition, A390
Fal. Various outbuildings have been converted Cornwall’s largest industry, the town is also the B Shipwreck & Heritage Centre
into restaurants, an art and craft gallery and a home of another important local business –
E Tregrehan Gardens
gift shop. the St Austell Brewery. Founded by Walter
Feock can boast of sustaining one of only Hicks in 1851, the brewery flourished as the This picturesque small fishing
five remaining chain ferries operating in town expanded on the prosperity of the village, once named West
England. The King Harry Ferry has an all year kaolin. Still thriving today, it remains a family Polmear, was transformed in the
round service and can take up to 28 cars per business. The history of the company and an 1790s by Charles Rashleigh after
trip. It travels between Feock and Philleigh on insight into the brewing process can be found whom the town was renamed.
the Roseland and cuts the journey time from at the informative St Austell Brewery Visitor He was a local mine owner who
Eden Project
Truro to the Roseland by up to 25-30 miles on Centre, from where visitors are also taken on built a harbour here to support
a round trip. a guided tour of the brewery. record producer Tim Smit, back in 1994, the the recently established china
A couple of miles north of the town, in the Project took over an abandoned, 50-metre- clay industry. Charlestown’s harbour declined
heart of the Cornish Alps, is Wheal Martyn, in the 19th century as other ports, such as
St Austell an old clay works, now transformed into the
deep china clay pit which, now contains the
largest conservatories in the world. Three of Fowey and Plymouth, developed better
China Clay Country Park. Spread across 26 facilities. However, what has been left is a
D Cornish Alps H St Austell Brewery Visitor Centre the world’s climate zones (Biomes) have been
acres of woodland, this open air museum tells harbour and village in a Georgian time
E China Clay Country Park
chosen for interpretation: the Humid Tropics
the 200-year-old story of the industry in capsule. As well as providing a permanent
(Rainforests and Tropical Islands) and the
“This strange white world of pyramid and Cornwall through a wide variety of displays. berth for square-rigged boats, it is a popular
Warm Temperate regions (the Mediterranean,
pool,” was Daphne du Maurier’s response to The land around this once busy mine has been South Africa and California) are contained destination with holidaymakers and has been
the bizarre landscape around St Austell. The replanted and now has a unique range of within the two giant conservatories that have used as the location for TV series such as
man ultimately responsible was William habitats. The nature trail through the already captured the public imagination. The Poldark and The Onedin Line.
Cookworthy, a chemist from Plymouth, who surrounding countryside offers visitors the third, or Outdoor Biome, is our own Close to the docks is the Shipwreck and
discovered large deposits of kaolin, or china opportunity to discover many different birds, Temperate zone that thrives on the climatic Heritage Centre. This offers an insight into
clay, here in 1748. Cookworthy realised the small mammals, plants and insects. advantages that Cornwall has to offer. More the town’s history, local shipwrecks and the
importance of the china clay, which is a than three-quarters of Eden’s plants are in this various devices that have been developed
constituent of many products including
Around St Austell outdoor area the size of 30 football pitches over the years for rescuing and recovering
porcelain, glossy paper, textiles and with some 1900 different species and cultivars. those in peril at sea. There are hundreds of
pharmaceuticals. But for every ton of china Stunning at any time of year, these gardens are artefacts recovered from more than 150
ST BLAZEY shipwrecks and the many and varied
clay extracted, another nine tons of spoil is breathtaking in spring when daffodils,
3½ miles NE of St Austell on the A390 exhibitions reflect village life in Charlestown,
created. Over the years, the waste material crocuses and spring-flowering shrubs present
from the clay pits to the north and west of the E Eden Project a spectacle that Tim Smit has described as its history and the once thriving china clay
town has been piled up into conical spoil “Picasso meets the Aztecs”. industry. The exhibition displays a
To the west of the village is the remarkable
heaps that led to these bare, bleached uplands Eden Project, which, since its opening in May The Project can become quite congested at tremendous range of maritime history dating
being nicknamed the Cornish Alps. More weekends, but you can avoid the queues by back to 1715 and has one of the largest
2001, has been a huge international success.
recently the heaps and disused pits have been The project aims to “promote the buying a combined bus and admission ticket in underwater diving equipment collections in
landscaped with acid-loving plants, such as the country, including various suits used for
understanding and responsible management St Austell from First bus travel. Bikers and
rhododendrons, and they now have gently treasure seeking and naval purposes.
of the vital relationship between plants, people hikers can also claim a discount as well as
undulating footpaths and nature trails. and resources.” The brain-child of former going straight to the fast track ticket window. Just to the northeast of Charlestown, close

A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks
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CHARLESTOWN GALLERY THE DUCHY SMOKED FISH COMPANY

CORNWALL
On The Quay, Charlestown, St Austell, “The Smokehouse”, The Causeway, Off Par Green, Par,
Cornwall PL25 3NJ Cornwall PL24 2AF
Tel: 01726 67886 Tel: 01726 816063
e-mail: gemmaausten@hotmail.co.uk e-mail: duchysmokedfish@live.co.uk
website: www.flickr.com/photos/gemmaausten website: www.smokedfishcornwall.co.uk
Located close to the harbour in the picturesque The fact that many local restaurants, hotels, delis and
coastal village of Charlestown, the Charlestown fishmongers buy their smoked goods from Duchy Smoked Fish
Gallery was established some 20 years ago by local is a testament to their quality. Run by two local men, and only
artist Don Austen. His daughter Gemma has now in business since 2009, their rapidly-growing reputation speaks
taken over. An accomplished artist herself, Gemma for itself. They have their own 60-stone kiln in the
shows her own work in the gallery along with that smokehouse behind the shop, which enables them to smoke
of many other local artists, among them Pete Fugler large quantities at the same time and whose heady aroma
and Roy Steadman. The gallery is well laid out with permeates the building making it impossible to resist buying.
an open plan display area and a workshop/working Duchy Smoked Fish produces a cold-smoked mackerel,
area at the back. The gallery also has a very which is unique to them, so a rare chance to buy something
reasonably priced framing service. you won’t taste anywhere else. Smoked mussels are another
Charlestown itself is a delight to visit and its of their special delicacies, as are the 2010 award winning
Shipwreck Heritage Museum is immensely popular. smoked mackerel fillets and smoked haddock fillets.
Noted as a home port for Tall Ships, the village has
been extensively featured in many international
films, most recently in Alice in Wonderland starring to Tregrehan Mills, is Tregrehan Gardens way with either the fishing boats or processing
Johnny Depp. where visitors can see many mature trees the catch. This has led to a labyrinth of
from as far afield as North America and buildings all within easy reach of the harbour.
Japan, along with rhododendrons and a range The tiny Inner Harbour of today dates from
of Carlyon hybrid camellias. The garden has the 1770s, while the Outer Harbour, built to
been created over the years since the early increase the size of the port, was finally
1800s by the Carlyon family who have lived finished at the end of the 19th century.
here since 1565. On the East Quay is the Mevagissey Folk
Museum, which shows how the village once
MEVAGISSEY
looked when the pilchard industry was
5 miles S of St Austell on the B3273
prospering. It also has a display on a local
B Mevagissey Folk Museum chemist, Mr Pears, who created the famous
H World of Model Railways Exhibition soap. During the season, a popular excursion
E Mevagissey Aquarium from the harbour is to take the passenger
ferry to Fowey, a crossing that takes about
E Lost Gardens of Heligan
35 minutes.
E Caerhays Castle Gardens
Elsewhere around the harbour, visitors can
Once aptly known as Porthilly, Mevagissey was see the fascinating displays and models at the
renamed in the 14th century after the saints World of Model Railways Exhibition. It
St Meva and St Issey. The largest fishing contains an impressive collection of 2000
village on St Austell Bay, Mevagissey was an models and a working display featuring more
important centre of the pilchard industry and than 30 trains travelling through varied
everyone who lived here was linked in some landscapes including town, country, seaside

A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks
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MEVAGISSEY FINE ART

CORNWALL
4 St George’s Square, Mevagissey, Cornwall PL26 6UB
Tel: 01726 844488
email: steve@ysellaart.co.uk
website: www.mevagisseyfineart.co.uk
Anyone who holidays or lives in the West Country,
especially Cornwall, knows how spectacularly beautiful it
is, and how it has not surprisingly always appealed to
artists. At his shop in Mevagissey, Steve Elson (who took
over the business from his parents in 2010) has one
of the widest ranges of artworks in the region. He
stocks the work of painters and craftsmen from all
over the West Country, but predominantly Cornwall,
as well as his own impressive framed photographs.
There are many limited edition prints as well as
original paintings, alongside ceramics, jewellery, and
colourful work in glass. Steve makes it his business
to stock work in all price ranges, not just at the
more expensive end of the market, so that anyone
visiting his gallery on the heart of Mevagissey can
find something to take away. Artists whose work
you can find here include Tony Hogan, Kevin Platt and the cute cats, dogs, sheep and other
animals of the ceramic artist Jane Adams.

and even an Alpine winter scene. The famous Lost Gardens of Heligan, one of
Mevagissey Aquarium features local sea life the country’s most interesting gardens.
and is located in the old Lifeboat House just Originally laid out in 1780, the gardens lay
by the quay. undisturbed, or ‘lost’, for 70 years before being
To the northwest of Mevagissey are the rediscovered in 1990. The 200-acre estate
contains Victorian pleasure
grounds with spring-flowering
shrubs; a Japanese Garden; a
lush 22-acre ‘sub-tropical’
jungle with exotic foliage; a
pioneering wildlife
conservation project and
woodland and farm walks.
Gorran Haven, to the south
of Mevagissey, was once a
settlement to rival its
neighbour. Those days were
long ago and it is now an
Lost Gardens of Heligan
unspoilt village with a sandy
beach, sheltered by Dodman

A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks
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Point – a prominent headland where the of land, which forms the eastern margin of famed throughout the world for

CORNWALL
remains of an Iron Age defensive earthwork the Fal estuary, is always known by its Cornish its surfing.
can be seen. name Carrick Roads. It has a network of Although there is some Regency
To the west of Mevagissey, Caerhays footpaths that take in not only the craggy cliffs architecture in Newquay, the rise of
Castle Gardens is an informal 60-acre with their nesting seabirds but also the the town’s fortunes in the 19th
woodland garden on the coast near Porthluney grasslands dotted with wildflowers and the century saw a rapid expansion, and
Cove. It was created in the late 1800s by ruined military fortresses that go back to the many of the large Victorian hotels
JC Williams who sponsored plant-hunting time of the Armada and beyond. and residential houses still remain.
expeditions to China to stock his grounds. The The Trenance Heritage Cottages,
VERYAN
gardens are best known for their huge Asiatic Newquay’s oldest dwellings were
13 miles SW of St Austell off the A3078 Surfing at Fistral Beach
magnolias, which are at their most magnificent built in the 1700s but have stood
in March and April. The castle itself was built A Roundhouses empty since 2002. A group was
in the Gothic style by John Nash between Set within a wooded hollow, this charming Great Western and Tolcarne provide a gentle formed in 2007 and is currently developing
1805 and 1807, and is open for conducted village is famous for the five Roundhouses start for beginners on belly-boards. On display plans for their restoration for use as a tearoom,
tours on certain days. Anyone familiar with that stand at its entrance. Built in the early in Alma Place is the world’s longest surf board small museum and artist’s studio. The cottages
Alfred Hitchcock’s film Rebecca will recognise 19th century for the daughters of the local - a massive 36ft 6in long, it carried 11 people stand within Trenance Leisure Park, which
some of the interiors. vicar, the cottages’ circular shape was believed during a display marking the total solar eclipse offers 26 acres of indoor and outdoor activities
to protect the residents from evil as there are of August 1999. including bowling, boating, pitch & putt, crazy
PROBUS golf, horse-riding, tennis, ramp sports and a
no corners in which the Devil can hide. This busy resort has a long history. There
8 miles SW of St Austell off the A390 miniature railway. Also within the park is
Eastwards, on the coast, is the unspoilt is evidence of an Iron Age coastal fort
E Trewithen House & Gardens among the cliffs and caves of Porth Island – Newquay Zoo where conservation, education
fishing village of Portloe whose tiny harbour is
This large village is noted for having the tallest completely overshadowed by steep cliffs. To the the outcrop connected to the mainland by an and entertainment go hand in hand, and
parish church tower in the county. Built of south lies Carne Beacon, one of the largest elegant suspended footbridge. For centuries, hundreds of animals can be seen in sub-tropical
granite in the 16th century and richly Bronze Age burial mounds in the country. the harbour lay at the heart of this once lakeside gardens. Carpathian lynx are amongst
decorated, it stands 124 feet high. important pilchard fishing village. The town the stars of the show, but the many other
residents include African lions, red pandas,
Just west of the village is Trewithen House
and Gardens. The early Georgian house,
Newquay takes its name from the New Kaye that was
built in the mid 15th century by the villagers sloths, tapirs and capybara. Nearby, at the
who wanted to protect the inlet here. On indoor Water World complex, the whole family
whose name literally means ‘house of the trees’, F Huer’s Hut I Trenance Leisure Park
Towan Headland, the whitewashed Huer’s can enjoy a range of pools and water activities
stands in glorious woods and parkland and has E Newquay Zoo E Blue Reef Aquarium
Hut can still be seen; this was where the in a tropical climate.
gardens containing many rare species laid out in
I Water World B Buccaneer Bay Huer would scan the sea looking for shoals Adjacent to the harbour, the Blue Reef
the early 20th century by George Johnstone. Of
particular note are the magnificent collections I Holywell Bay Fun Park of red pilchards. Once spotted, he would cry Aquarium is home to a huge variety of
of camellias, rhododendrons and magnolias. “hevva” to alert the fishing crews and then Cornish and tropical species including octopi,
Washed by the warm waters of the Gulf
The interior of the house is filled with furniture Stream, Newquay is now the UK’s top surfing guide them to the shoals using a pair of bats giant crabs, clownfish and lobsters. Some of
and paintings collected by the Hawkins family known as bushes. As the fishing industry them can be seen as you stroll among the
resort with a choice of no fewer than 14
over many years. declined, (although you can still buy freshly colourful denizens of a coral reef through a
beaches. Fistral Beach faces the Atlantic head
caught shellfish on the quayside) Newquay spectacular underwater tunnel. There are more
To the southeast of Probus lies Tregony, a on, so when the wind is coming from the
became a major port for both china clay and than 30 living displays including some graceful
small village that was an important river port southwest the billows arrive after an unbroken
long before Truro and Falmouth were 3000-mile run – a worthy challenge for the top mineral exports. However, today, its beautiful sharks and rays.
developed; it is often called the ‘Gateway to national and international surf riders. By rocky coastline and acres of golden sands has The characters and events that have shaped
the Roseland Peninsula’. This indented tongue contrast, the sheltered beaches at Towan, seen it develop into a popular seaside resort, the history of this part of Cornwall can be

A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks
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GINNY’S FLOWERS discovered at Buccaneer Bay. More than 70 Hurling the Silver Ball, a medieval game

CORNWALL
7 Bank Street, St Columb Major, Cornwall TR9 6AT realistic life-size figures set in carefully once common throughout Cornwall but now
Tel/Fax: 01637 881472 constructed tableaux bring the days of only played in St Columb and St Ives - played
e-mail: ginnyscott@hotmail.co.uk website: www.ginnysflowers.co.uk smugglers and highwaymen, plague victims and on Shrove Tuesday and then again on the
Ginny Scott trained as a florist at Falmouth Art College and gained knowledge
miners, King Arthur and Merlin to life. The Saturday 11 days later. The game involves two
and experience in many florist’s shops before setting up here in 2007. Ginny’s scariest part is the Dungeon of Despair where teams of several hundred people (the
Flowers specialises in wedding floristry both traditional and contemporary, and visitors can hear the screams of prisoners being ‘townsmen’ and the ‘countrymen’) who
Ginny is happy to discuss individual requirements and provide quotations. The
shop handles all occasions. Ginny prides herself on providing personal service tortured in the name of old-time ‘justice’. endeavour to carry a silver ball made of apple
and sourcing the very best and freshest flowers from Holland. To the southwest of Newquay’s famous wood to goals set two miles apart.
THE COACHING INN beaches, Towan Beach and Fistral Beach, A couple of miles southeast of St Columb
13 Bank Street, St Columb Major, Cornwall TR9 6AT between the headlands of Pentire East and Major, on Castle Downs, are the remains of a
Tel: 01637 889767 e-mail: coachinginn@btconnect.com Pentire West, lies the quieter Gannel, home massive Iron Age hill fort. Castle-an-Dinas
to notable populations of waders and was a major defence of the Dumnonia tribe
The Coaching Inn is a handsome stone building with pretty hanging
baskets adorning the frontage and low beamed ceilings. Cara Russell wildfowl, which feed off the mudflats and who occupied this area around the 2nd
has built up a loyal clientele with her superb home cooking, which runs saltings. Just a short distance further on is the century BC. The earthwork ramparts enclose
from curries and casseroles to omelettes, fajitas and pasta, with a
good choice for vegetarians. Upstairs is a room used for pool or meetings. The Coaching Inn is also
pretty hamlet of Holywell with its attractive an area of more than six acres. Anyone
a popular place for a drink, with a good variety of local ales and ciders. beach, towering sand dunes and Holywell climbing to the gorse-covered remains will be
Bay Fun Park offering a whole range of rewarded with panoramic views over the leafy
SIMPLY OCCASIONS Vale of Mawgan to the northwest and the
activities for young and old.
41 Fair Street, St Columb Major, Cornwall TR9 6RL unearthly landscape created by china clay
Tel: 01637 889212 e-mail: sales@simplyoccasions.info
In 2006 Mary Bird and Sonia Lucas set up Simply Occasions, which Around Newquay extraction to the south.
To the northeast of St Columb Major, at
quickly became a popular source of cards, gifts and nice things for the
home. They have filled the little shop with a wide variety of gifts, toys, Winnards Perch, is the Cornish Birds of
jewellery, watches, photo frames, wedding presents, greetings cards, ST COLUMB MAJOR
Prey Centre where visitors can see more than
stationery and posters. They also sell a selection of jewellery, including the sought after Cornish 6 miles E of Newquay off the A39
silver Celtic jewellery. 50 hawks, falcons and buzzards fly freely
I Hurling the Silver Ball C Castle-an-Dinas during demonstrations. There are also
THE CRIBBAGE E Cornish Birds of Prey Centre waterfowl, ducks, pheasants, peacocks, emus,
15 Fair Street, St Columb Major, Cornwall TR9 6RL rheas, kookaburras, fallow deer, dwarf zebus
Tel: 01637 881729 Once in the running for consideration as the
and Shetland ponies. Also within the centre
e-mail: cmm.brown@virgin.net website: www.thecribbage.co.uk site of Cornwall’s cathedral, this small town
are three well-stocked fishing lakes, a tearoom
Built in 1732 as two adjoining cottages, The Cribbage is now a has an unusually large and flamboyant parish
and gift shop.
comfortable, characterful guest house, owned and run by Caroline church with monumental brasses to the
Brown. The accommodation comprises three beautifully appointed bedrooms that share a large influential Arundell family. In the 14th
bathroom with an unusual lion’s foot bath. The day starts with a wonderful breakfast featuring
INDIAN QUEENS
Caroline’s home-baked bread and the best local eggs, bacon and sausages. The house has a sitting century, Sir John Arundell was responsible for 8 miles E of Newquay off the A30
room with a open fire and a pretty garden. the town receiving its market charter. In 1850,
E Screech Owl Sanctuary
the town’s officials constructed a bishop’s
THE HEALTH & BEAUTY STUDIO
palace in anticipation of the county’s cathedral Close to an area dominated by china clay
Union Square, St Columb Major, Cornwall TR9 6AU
being built here. Now called the Old Rectory quarries, this chiefly Victorian village is home
Tel: 01637 889443/01637 881406
The Health & Beauty Studio in St Columb Major is owned and run by (private) it retains much of its grandeur, to the Screech Owl Sanctuary, just to the
Pauline Bennett, who brings top qualifications, in-depth knowledge and though it does not play host to its originally northeast. A rehabilitation, conservation and
many years’ experience to the business. Among the services offered in intended guests. education centre, the sanctuary has the largest
the studio are various types of massage, manicures, pedicures, waxing, electrolysis, facials,
dermatological skin care, bridal make-up, nail treatments and eye treatments. Twice a year, the town is the venue for collection of owls in the southwest of

A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks
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England – more than 170 owls of 46 different and drinking glasses. There are portraits by the railway is open from the beginning of April to

CORNWALL
species. As well as offering visitors the chance renowned Cornish painter John Opie and an the end of September and runs between seven
to see hand-tame owls at close quarters, the unusual set of early wooden skittles. Within and 11 trains a day, depending on the season.
centre runs courses on owl welfare. Harry the charming grounds, a former hayloft At the northern terminus of the line are
Potter would approve. A recent addition to the houses the Lawnmower Museum which the imposing engine house and chimney stack
sanctuary’s residents is a trio of young emus. traces the history of the lawnmower and of East Wheal Rose mine, Cornwall’s
The village’s unusual name appears to have contains more than 100 machines. richest lead mine that was the scene, in 1846,
come from a pub named The Indian Queen, of the county’s worst mining disaster.
ST NEWLYN EAST
which operated here in the 19th century. It has Following a flash flood caused by a sudden,
5 miles S of Newquay off the A3075
since been demolished, but its stone lintel unexpected cloudburst, 39 miners were River Camel, Wadebridge
recently reappeared on a house in the village, I Lappa Valley Steam Railway drowned. The village cockpit, where
It bears the name and the words “Licensed C East Wheal Rose mine cockfighting had taken place for centuries, steady growth in trade through the town and
Brewer and Retailer of Beer, Cyder, Wine and was restored as a memorial to the dead; the its port, but the arrival of the railway in the
A mile or so south of this sizeable village is
Tobacco. Licensed to the Post Horses”. mine was re-opened a year after the tragedy 19th century saw Wadebridge really thrive. As
the Lappa Valley Steam Railway. This
but closed for good in 1885. a result, much of the town’s architecture dates
KESTLE MILL narrow gauge railway (15 inch gauge) was
opened in 1849 as a mineral line from from the Victorian era.
3m SE of Newquay on the A3058
E DairyLand Farm World A Trerice
Newquay to East Wheal Rose, and later Wadebridge Wadebridge maintains its links with farming
became part of Great Western Railway’s and each June, to the west of the town centre,
A Lawnmower Museum Newquay to Chacewater branch line. This line I Wadebridge Folk Festival J Camel Trail the Royal Cornwall Show is held. This
Just to the south of Kestle Mill is a family closed in 1963, but part of the track was re- B John Betjeman Centre I Royal Cornwall Show extravaganza presents a wealth of attractions -
attraction that has welcomed more than two opened in 1974 as a narrow gauge railway. a steam fair, military bands, parachute teams,
Attractively sited on the banks of the River
million visitors since opening in 1975. Two steam locos, Muffin and Zebedee, work acts of daring and hundreds of trade stalls
Camel at its lowest bridging point, this ancient
DairyLand Farm World is a working dairy the line, running from Benny Halt on a two selling thousands of products.
port and busy market town is now a popular
farm where visitors can see the 120 cows mile return journey to East Wheal Rose. The Another popular annual event is the
holiday centre, also renowned for its craftware.
being milked to music; try their hand at Wadebridge Folk Festival, a feast of dance,
Linking the north and south coasts of Cornwall
milking a life-size model cow; explore the music and fun that takes place over the August
and the moorland with the sea, Wadebridge has
nature trail; and look around the Heritage Bank Holiday weekend.
always been a bustling place, and its
Centre and Alternative Energy Centre. establishment as a trading centre began in The town’s former railway station is now
Hidden away in the country lanes two miles earnest in the 15th century. The Rev Lovibond, home to the John Betjeman Centre,
west of Kestle Mill is the delightful small the vicar of St Petroc’s, was looking for a means dedicated to the life and work of the much-
Elizabethan manor house Trerice (National of conveying his flock of sheep safely across loved Poet Laureate. Among the tributes and
Trust). A real architectural gem, it was built in the river. So, in the 1460s, he built the 320-feet- intimate artefacts on display are the poet’s
1571 for the influential Arundell family. As long and now 14-arched bridge that can still be desk, his chair and drafts of his works. Many
well as the hint of Dutch styling in the gables, seen today. One of the longest bridges in of his books are for sale, plus videos, post
and the beautiful window in the Great Hall Cornwall, it originally had 17 arches and it is cards and other mementos.
with 576 small panes of 16th-century glass, said that this bridge, nicknamed the Bridge on Although the railway line, which opened in
Trerice is noted for its huge, ornate fireplaces, Wool, was constructed on bridge piers that 1899, closed in the 1960s, a stretch of the
elaborate plasterwork and fine English oak and were sunk on a foundation of woolsacks. The track bed has been used to create the superb
walnut furniture. Several rooms contain bridge still carries the main road that links the Camel Trail, a 17-mile traffic-free footpath
superb English and Oriental porcelain, and town’s two ancient parishes. and cycleway that leads up into the foothills of
East Wheal Rose
among the more esoteric collections are clocks With a permanent river crossing there was a Bodmin Moor to the east, and westwards
A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks
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one part of a stretch of coastline owned by bay after bay. At the tip of the headland stands
COUNTRYWISE

CORNWALL
the National Trust. A footpath over the Trevose Lighthouse, which has been warning
5 Eddystone Road, Wadebridge, Cornwall PL27 7AL southern headland leads to Porth Mear, mariners away from its sheer granite cliffs
Tel: 01208 812423 another secluded cove beyond which, on a low since 1847 with a beam that, today, can be
Countrywise is the perfect shop to stock up on your classic plateau, is a prehistoric earthwork of banks seen up to 27 miles away.
country clothing, and much more. This surprisingly spacious
and ditches. Further south again lie the
store also sells footwear and accessories for all outdoor
Bedruthan Steps, a curious beach rock PADSTOW
occasions, as well as more rugged gear for walkers and hikers.
At the other end of the scale is a new line in stylish handbags formation that is best viewed from the grassy 6 miles W of Wadebridge on the A389
from Coccinelle which, like the rest of the Countrywise ranges, clifftops. The giant slate rocks have been J Saints Way E National Lobster Hatchery
combines good looks with practicality.
eroded over the centuries and their uniform A Raleigh Cottage G Charles Dickens
Based not far from the River Camel in the historic town of
Wadebridge, Countrywise is a family-run store whose team is shape has caused them, according to local
I May Day A Prideaux Place
both professional and friendly. They all know their country legend, to be thought of as the stepping stone
clothing, and are happy to offer practical help and advice used by the Cornish giant Bedruthan. Padstow’s sheltered position, on the western
whether you’re looking to buy walking shoes or a rucksack. All
To the north, the South West Coast Path side of the Camel estuary, has made it a
the major, quality outdoor brands are stocked, including Dubarry,
Musto and of course Barbour. The store spreads over two floors leads walkers around Constantine Bay and past welcome haven for vessels for centuries and
and upstairs can be found names including Berghaus, Royal a succession of sandy beaches that are ideal the area has been settled by many different
Robbins and the ever-popular North Face range. You’ll also find for surfing. Unfortunately, the strong currents people over the years, including the
gear from Rohan, Crag Hopper and Lowe Alpine, Brasher and
along this stretch make swimming hazardous. prehistoric Beaker folk, Romans, Celtic saints
other walking boots, and a new range of Patagonia outdoor
clothing. And if they don’t have it in stock, they’ll get it for you, Beyond Constantine Bay stretches the remote and marauding Vikings. Originally named
usually within a few days. It’s that kind of old-fashioned service headland of Trevose Head from where there Petroc-stow, it was here that the Welsh
that makes Countrywise special. are wonderful views down the coast, taking in missionary St Petroc landed in the 6th
along the River Camel to Padstow. Molesworth-St Aubyn family and has a Grade
ST EVAL CANDLE COMPANY
Just to the west of Wadebridge, close to the II* listed garden containing more than 600
hamlet of St Breock, stands the St Breock varieties of rhododendron, along with rock Engollan, St Eval, Wadebridge,
and woodland gardens. A notable feature is Cornwall PL27 7UL
Downs Monolith, a striking Bronze Age
Tel: 01841 540850
longstone that is also known as the Men Gurta the avenue of araucaria whose English name
e-mail: info@stevalcandlecompany.co.uk
(the Stone of Waiting). Originally five metres is said to have originated at Pencarrow in
website: www.stevalcandlecompany.co.uk
(16 feet) high and weighing some 16.75 1834 when a guest examined the prickly
Located in the beautiful North Cornwall countryside, the St
tonnes, this is Cornwall’s largest and heaviest leaves and declared, “It would puzzle a Eval Candle Company has manufactured church candles and
prehistoric monolith. Other prehistoric monkey!” During the season, the gardens are interior candles for more than 10 years. St Eval use traditional
open daily, and guided tours of the house methods to manufacture candles, including a process known
remains, such as the Nine Maidens stone row,
as ‘drawing’ which results in superior burning qualities and
can also be found on St Breock Downs. with its superb collections of paintings, time. Over the years, St Eval’s range has grown considerably,
furniture, porcelain and antique dolls are with unique fragrances and styles. The company also now has
available Sunday to Thursday.
Around Wadebridge
an enviable reputation for its use of beautiful and unusual
containers.
PORTHCOTHAN St Eval strongly believe in trying to impact as little as
8 miles W of Wadebridge on the B3276 possible on the local environment. Based on a traditional working farm, they manufacture in a very
PENCARROW
rural community with high unemployment. Although they are a small company, they are vital to the
4 miles SE of Wadebridge off the A389 D Bedruthan Steps D Trevose Head local economy with 80% of the workforce living within a mile and either cycling or walking to work.
E Pencarrow Whenever they can, St Eval uses materials from sustainable and renewable sources. They endeavour
This tiny village overlooks a deep, square, to produce as little waste as possible, and all packaging is sourced from re-cycled materials.
A fine Georgian country house completed in sheltered cove with a sandy beach that was St Eval warmly welcome passing guests to come and see their candles being made and visit
1775, Pencarrow is the home of the once the haunt of smugglers, but today is just their gift shop.

A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks
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78 The Countr y Living Guide to R ural England - Cor nwall 79

century and, before moving on to Bodmin accommodation and even a gift shop. next day. The townsfolk sing in the new that were laid out in the style of Capability

CORNWALL
Moor to continue his missionary work, More seafood is on display at the National morning and then follow the prancing Obby Brown in the 18th century.
founded a Celtic Minster. Beginning at the Lobster Hatchery (see panel opposite) on Oss through the town in a procession of
door of the town’s 13th-century parish musicians, singers, drummers and dancers. POLZEATH AND NEW POLZEATH
South Quay. In 2005, the Hatchery released
Church of St Petroc, the Saints’ Way is a 30- The celebrations continue until midnight
6 miles NW of Wadebridge off the B3314
more than 15,000 juvenile lobsters into the sea
mile footpath that follows the route taken by – for just £1 you can adopt one of them, when the Obby Oss dies. C Rumps Cliff Castle A Church of St Enadoc
travellers and pilgrims crossing Cornwall on name it and receive a certificate and It was while visiting Padstow in 1842 that G Sir John Betjeman
their way from Brittany to Ireland. information pack. There’s also a gift shop area Charles Dickens was inspired to write
Surfers and holidaymakers flock to these two
The silting up of the River Camel in the with sea-life related goods, and a range of A Christmas Carol in which he mentions the
small resorts as the broad west-facing beach is
19th century, and the evocatively named books about marine life and Cornwall. lighthouse at Trevose Head. His good friend,
not only ideal for surf, but the fine sands,
Doom Bar, which restricts entry into the The Hatchery is close to the harbour, which Dr Miles Marley, whose son Henry Marley,
caves and tidal rock pools make it a fascinating
estuary mouth, put paid to Padstow’s hopes of remains the town’s focal point. Here can be practised as a doctor at Padstow for
place for children. This was also a place much
continuing as a major port. found many of Padstow’s older buildings 51 years, provided the surname for Scrooge’s
loved by Sir John Betjeman. To the north of
Today, the picturesque harbour still teems including the 16th-century Raleigh Cottage, partner, Jacob.
the villages is a beautiful coastal path that
with people and the influence of the sea is where Sir Walter Raleigh lived while he was On the northern outskirts of the town, takes in the cliffs and farmland of Pentire
never far away. Since 1975, Padstow has been Warden of Cornwall. and built on the site of St Petroc’s monastery Point and Rumps Point – where stands
closely linked with the famous chef, restaurateur As well as the annual Fish and Ships stands Prideaux Place, a magnificent Rumps Cliff Castle, an Iron Age
and ardent promoter of seafood, Rick Stein, Festival, Padstow continues to celebrate May Elizabethan mansion that has been the home fortification. The remains of four defensive
whose empire now includes a seafood Day in a traditional manner that has it roots of the ancient Cornish Prideaux-Brune ramparts can still be seen. The area is known
restaurant, a bistro café, a seafront delicatessen, in pagan times. It begins at midnight on the family for more than 400 years. Along with for its wild tamarisk, an elegant flowering
a patisserie, fish & chip shop, a cooking school, eve of May Day and lasts throughout the family portraits and memorabilia, and shrub that is more commonly found around
remarkably ornate ceilings, the house the shores of the Mediterranean Sea. In the
THE BUTTERMILK SHOP contains many artefacts illustrating the 1930s, Pentire Head was saved from
history of this area and the country. The commercial development by local fund-raisers
1 Chapel Court, Padstow,
Cornwall PL28 8AW mansion is surrounded by glorious gardens who bought the land and donated it to the
Tel: 01208 814505 and parkland overlooking the Camel estuary National Trust.
e-mail: buttermilkuk@btconnect.com
website: www.buttermilkshop.com
If you are fond of fudge, look no
The National Lobster Hatchery
further than the Cornish fudge sold South Quay, Padstow, Cornwall PL28 8BL
at the Buttermilk shop in the traditional fishing port of Padstow. Owner Tel: 01841 533877
David set up the Cornish company, which specialises in making fudge
e-mail: hatchery@NationalLobsterHatchery.co.uk
in nearby Wadebridge.
website: www.hatchery.freeserve.co.uk
Padstow itself lies on the Camel Estuary, about seven miles from
Wadebridge, and is an area of considerable natural beauty with The National Lobster Hatchery promotes and contributes to the
beautiful bays, golden beaches and many interesting walks, particularly responsible management of coastal marine resources, as well
along the Coastal Footpath. In the summer months it is bustling with holiday makers because of as offering a resource for education, conservation and
its fantastic seaside location, connection to Rick Stein, fish restaurants and because Padstow is research. At the forefront, is a lobster restocking project,
the start of two of the West Country’s most famous long-distance paths: the seventeen-mile where fishermen bring egg laden female lobsters in to enable
Camel Trail and the thirty-mile Saints Way across the peninsula to Fowey.
them to release their offspring where there are no predators.
There is a third Buttermilk shop located in the coastal village of Port Isaac, famous for the TV
The young lobsters are then raised to a size where they can look after themselves and are
series Doc Martin starring Martin Clunes.
released back into the sea. One of the main aims is education and groups from schools and
If you don’t live in Cornwall and are not planning a visit anytime soon Buttermilk will soon have
colleges can be provided with activities and workshops. Open all year 7 days a week.
an online shop, so you can purchase Cornish fudge wherever you are.

A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks
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PORTHILLY GALLERY Tintagel Cornish granite by a group calling themselves

CORNWALL
the Knights of King Arthur. They furnished
Rock, Wadebridge, Cornwall PL27 6JX C Tintagel Castle A King Arthur’s Great Hall the vast halls with a Round Table and
Tel: 01208 863844 72 stained glass windows depicting their coats
e-mail: info@porthillygallery.co.uk A Old Post Office D Rocky Valley
of arms and some of their adventures.
website: www.porthillygallery.co.uk D St Nectan’s Kieve H Rocky Valley Carvings
However, there is more to Tintagel than
Jethro Jackson has lived in Cornwall all his life, and he celebrates the D Bossiney Haven
county’s beauty in his original and atmospheric work in both ceramics King Arthur. In the High Street, is the
and paintings. He has an especial affinity with the North Cornish The romantic remains of Tintagel Castle weather-beaten Old Post Office – a
Coast, where his gallery in the little hamlet of Porthilly showcases his (English Heritage), set on a wild and 14th-century small manor house that first
own work and that of many other talented artists Most of Jackson’s
paintings capture the North Coast’s drama and beauty, while some of
windswept headland that juts out into the became a post office in the 19th century.
his pots swirl with the shape of the waves. Atlantic, are many people’s abiding image of Purchased by the National Trust in 1903 for
Other artists whose work can be seen and bought, or Cornwall. Throughout the year, many come to £100, the building is set within an enchanting
commissioned, at the gallery include Danka Napiorkowska, who clamber up the wooden stairway to The Island cottage garden and still has its original stone-
specialises in decorative tiling but also paints colourful pastels showing
the rich harvest of the Cornish seas. Roy reed is a photographic artist
to see the castle that legend claims was the paved medieval hall and ancient fireplace,
who produces panoramic landscapes, especially of the North Cornish birthplace of King Arthur. If the great king along with the ground-floor office of the
Coast, by stitching together a series of prints. Hamish Mackie grew up was born at this spot, it was certainly not in former postmistress.
on a Cornish farm and his sculptures have been displayed and acquired this castle, which was built in the 12th century.
by public and private collectors all over the world.
To the north of the village runs the mile-
But in 1998 the discovery of a 6th-century long Rocky Valley, a curious rock-strewn cleft
A visit to the Porthilly Gallery is not only a chance to see a pretty
part of Cornwall but also to admire and perhaps acquire some beautiful slate bearing the Latin inscription Artognou – in the landscape thathas a character all of its
pieces of art. which translates as the ancient British name own. In the wooded upper reaches can be
for Arthur – revitalised the belief that Tintagel found the impressive 40-foot waterfall known
This stretch of dramatic coastline, which was Arthur’s home. as St Nectan’s Kieve. This was named after a
building that has on several occasions been
runs round to Port Quin, includes sheltered The legends were first written down by Celtic hermit whose cell is believed to have
virtually submerged by windblown sand. At
bays and coves, ancient field patterns, old Geoffrey of Monmouth in the mid 1100s stood beside the basin, or kieve, at the foot of
those times the congregation would enter
lead mines and Iron Age defensive and over the years were reworked by many the cascade. Here, too, can be seen the Rocky
through an opening in the roof. The sand was
earthworks. It is ideal walking country, and other writers, notably Sir Thomas Malory’s Valley Carvings, on a rock face behind a
finally cleared away in the 1860s when the
there are numerous footpaths taking walkers Morte d’Arthur of around 1450, and ruined building. Though it is suggested that
church was restored, and the bell in the tower,
on circular routes that incorporate both Tennyson’s epic poem Idylls
which came from an Italian ship wrecked
coastal countryside and farmland. of the King in 1859.
nearby, was installed in 1875. The beautiful Old Post Office, Tintagel
The tiny hamlet of Port Quin suffered Tintagel village, of
churchyard contains many graves of
greatly when the railways took away the slate course, owes a lot to its
shipwrecked mariners, but what draws many
trade from its once busy quay, and the demise Arthurian connections, so
people to this quiet place is the grave of the
was so swift that, at one time, outsiders souvenir and themed shops
poet Sir John Betjeman, who is buried here
thought that the entire population had been have proliferated along its
along with his parents. Betjeman spent many of
washed away by a great storm. Overlooking main street. You might
his childhood holidays in the villages and coves
the now repopulated hamlet is Doyden Castle, prefer to pass on the
around the Camel Estuary, and his affection for
a squat 19th-century castellated folly that is ‘genuine Excaliburgers’ on
the local people and places was the inspiration
now a holiday home. offer in one pub, but an
for many of his works. The church is reached
oddity worth visiting is
To the southwest of Polzeath stands the across a golf course that is regarded as one of
King Arthur’s Great Hall.
delightful Church of St Enodoc, a Norman the most scenic links courses in the country.
It was built in 1933 of

A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks
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the carvings date from early Christian times, off to London and beyond by train. The fragments thought to be more than 2000 CAMELFORD

CORNWALL
around the same time that St Nectan was centre of this conservation village is years old. It is believed to be the Castle 4 miles SE of Tintagel on the A39
living here, it is impossible to be accurate, and concentrated around the protected harbour Terrible in Thomas Malory’s 15th-century B North Cornwall Museum
other suggestions range from the 2nd century where old fish cellars and fishermen’s cottages epic, Morte D’Arthur. Here Uther Pendragon
B Arthurian Centre
BC to the 17th century. line the narrow alleys and ‘opes’ that wend laid siege and killed the Earl of Cornwall
A little further north, and reached by a short their way down to the coast. Crab and lobster because he had fallen in love with the earl’s This small and historic old market town, on
footpath from the village of Bossiney, is the fishing are still the major activity. beautiful wife, Igerna. the banks of the River Camel, prospered on
beautiful, sheltered beach of Bossiney Haven, Two rather unusual attractions for Just over a mile inland, close to the village the woollen trade. Around its central small
surrounded by a semi-circle of cliffs. The views summer visitors are the Thursday evening of Trelights, is the only public garden along square are some pleasant 18th and 19th-
from the cliff tops are spectacular, but only the brass band concert and the Friday evening this stretch of North Cornwall coast – Long century houses. The North Cornwall
fit and agile should attempt to scramble down sing-song of shanties by the Port Isaac choir. Cross Victorian Gardens, a real garden Museum and Gallery, housed in a
to the inviting beach below. Inland, at Bossiney Both take place on the beach from Whit lover’s delight. Located next to the Long Cross converted coach house, displays aspects of
Common, the outlines of ancient field patterns, Sunday until September. Hotel, the gardens’ imaginative planting and life in this area throughout the 20th century
or lynchets, can still be traced. Just to the east lies Port Gaverne, another superb panoramic views make it a very special as well as the reconstruction of a 19th-
busy 19th-century fishing port where, in one place. Other attractions here include a secret century moorland cottage.

Around Tintagel season, more than 1000 tons of pilchards were

landed and processed in the village’s fish cellars
garden and a fascinating Victorian maze. North of the town, the Arthurian Centre
houses the Land of Arthur exhibition and
DELABOLE also contains an information room (including
or ‘pilchard palaces’. Today, most of the large
PORT ISAAC 3 miles S of Tintagel on the B3314 brass rubbing and a video presentation), a
stone buildings, including some of the old fish
6 miles SW of Tintagel on the B3267 C Delabole Slate Quarry play area, a refreshment area and a shop
cellars, have been converted into holiday
C Tregeare Rounds accommodation. Tourism has prospered here as stocked with Arthurian books and gifts.
Home to the most famous slate quarry in
E Long Cross Victorian Gardens the village has one of the safest beaches along Close by, on the riverbank at Slaughter
Cornwall, Delabole is almost literally built of
the North Cornwall coast. Bridge, lies an inscribed 6th-century slab that
A delightful fishing village that has retained slate. It has been used here for houses, walls,
Just inland from the village can be found is said to mark the place where King Arthur
much of its ancient charm, Port Isaac has steps and the church. The high quality dark
the double ramparts of Tregeare Rounds. fell at the Battle of Camlann in AD539,
become well-known to viewers of the ITV blue slate has been quarried here uninterrupted
This Celtic hill fort was excavated in 1904. defeated by his nephew Mordred.
drama series, Doc Martin, for which it provides since Tudor times, and it is known that, in
the major location as Port Wenn. The town is Among the finds uncovered were pottery around 2000BC, Beaker Folk on Bodmin Moor BOSCASTLE
surrounded by open countryside, used slate as baking shelves. The huge crater of 3 miles NE of Tintagel on the B3263
Heritage Coast and an Area of Port Isaac Harbour Delabole Slate Quarry is over half a mile
B Museum of Witchcraft G Thomas Hardy
Outstanding Natural Beauty. Port wide and 500 feet deep – making it the largest
Isaac has been a busy port since man-made hole in the country. Although the On 16 August 2004, torrential rain fell on the
the Middle Ages. During its demand for traditional building materials hills above the picturesque fishing village of
heyday in the 19th century, fish declined during the 20th century, the quarry is Boscastle and within hours its main street was
along with cargoes of stone, coal, still worked and there are tours available and filled with a turbulent torrent of water
timber and pottery were loaded occasional slate splitting demonstrations. sweeping everything before it towards the sea.
and unloaded on its quayside. To the southwest of the village stands the Vivid television pictures recorded the dramatic
Following the arrival of the first wind farm to be built in Britain, Delabole scenes as cars were jostled along like toys on
railways, pilchards were landed Wind Farm, which became operational in the surging waves, and residents were winched
here in great numbers, gutted and 1991. It produces enough power each year to by helicopters from their rooftops.
processed in the village’s many satisfy more than half the annual demands of Astonishingly, no one died and no one was
fish cellars before being packed both Delabole and Camelford. seriously injured in the calamity, but most of

A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks
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the houses in the path of the flood were port handling coal, timber, slate and china clay. Christine Musser, in the village and recorded some excellent, if rather demanding, walking.

CORNWALL
rendered uninhabitable. Insurance companies Because of the dangerous harbour entrance, her role in its various activities. The series later This stretch of tortuous coastline is not only
estimated that claims would exceed half a ships were towed into it by rowing boats – a detailed the aftermath of the inundation that of ecological importance, but also historic. An
billion pounds. Six years on, the village has blowhole known as the Devil’s Bellows in the included visits by Prince Charles and the Rev Iron Age earthwork can be seen across the
been painstakingly restored and bears no signs outer harbour still sends up plumes of spray in Musser’s fictional TV equivalent, Dawn promontory at Willapark, and there is a 19th-
of the catastrophic flooding. bad weather. French’s Vicar of Dibley. century lookout tower on the summit.
Before this disaster, Boscastle was best Next to the slipway where the River Valency The spectacular slate headlands on either From the village there is a footpath that
known for its picture-postcard qualities and its meets the sea is the Museum of Witchcraft side of Boscastle’s harbour mouth provide follows the steep wooded Valency Valley to
associations with the novelist Thomas Hardy. (see panel below), which suffered badly in the
The village stands in a combe at the head of a flooding of August 2004. It reopened the HARBOUR LIGHT
remarkable S-shaped inlet that shelters it from following Easter and once again boasts the The Harbour, Boscastle, Cornwall, PL35 0AG
the Atlantic Ocean. The only natural harbour world’s largest collection of witchcraft related Tel: 01840 250413 / 01840 250 374 Fax: 01840 250413
between Hartland Point and Padstow, artefacts and regalia. Visitors can also learn all e-mail: harbourlightltd@hotmail.com
Boscastle’s inner jetty was built by the about witches, their lives, their spells, their website: www.harbourlightltd@hotmail.com
renowned Elizabethan, Sir Richard Grenville, charms and their curses. Harbour Light is a wonderful independent shop selling a good
when the village was prospering as a fishing, Even before the floods, Boscastle was selection of clothing and quality gifts. Owned by Trixie Webster,
the shop was originally located on the other side of the stream,
grain and slate port. The outer jetty, or becoming familiar to viewers of BBC2’s but was one of several independent shops completely destroyed during the devastating floods of
breakwater, dates from the 19th century when documentary series, A Seaside Parish, which August 2004, which attracted national media coverage. The shop, which also sells locally made
Boscastle had grown into a busy commercial followed the arrival of a new vicar, the Rev gifts, now occupies another traditional building in the fishing village, which has made a remarkable
recovery and returned to its picturesque routes. Popular with locals and visitors to the north
Cornwall coast, Harbour Light is definitely worth a look.
Museum of Witchcraft
The Harbour, Boscastle, Cornwall PL35 0HD THE OLD RECTORY ST JULIOT
Tel: 01840 250111 St Juliot, Boscastle, Cornwall PL35 0BT
e-mail: museumwitchcraft@aol.com Tel: 01840 250225
website: www.museumofwitchcraft.com e-mail: sally@stjuliot.com
The Museum of Witchcraft in Boscastle houses the world’s website: www.stjuliot.com
largest collection of witchcraft related artefacts and regalia.
The achievements of the luxury b&b The Old Rectory speak
The museum has been located in Boscastle for over 40 years and despite severe damage in for themselves. The Times chose it as one of the 12 best
recent floods, it remains one of Cornwall’s most popular museums. b&b’s in Britain, and for the last ten years it has earned itself
The fascinating displays cover all aspects of witchcraft and include Divination, Sea five stars and a Gold Award from VisitEngland, the
Witchcraft, Spells and Charms, Modern Witchcraft, Herbs & Healing, Ritual Magic, Satanism organisation’s top accolade. The Rectory was built in 1847
and Hare & Shapeshifting. and in 1870 was the place where the writer Thomas Hardy
met his wife-to-be, Emma Lavinia Gifford, who was the
One exhibit features the burial of Joan Wytte who was born in Bodmin, Cornwall, in 1775
Rector’s sister-in-law.
and died of bronchial pneumonia in Bodmin Jail in 1813. She was a renowned clairvoyant and
Staying here is like stepping back in time, as guests can
healer but became aggressive and impatient due to an untreated abscess in her tooth and
leave their cars behind and explore the lovely North Cornish
people came to believe she was possessed by the devil. She became known as ‘The Fighting scenery on foot from the door. England’s highest cliffs are a
Fairy Woman’ and was imprisoned for grievous bodily harm. short walk away, and here you can see seals basking on the
Her skeleton came into the possession of the Museum of Witchcraft and was exhibited rocks. In fact you don’t even need to leave the Rectory to
there for many years. Eight years ago the museum team believed she deserved a proper burial go exploring, as it has its own 3 acres of woodland garden.
and Joan was finally laid to rest in 1998. Among the other artefacts to be seen here are an The four rooms are decorated in period style but with all the
amazing collection of figures and dolls, carved plates and stones, jewellery, cauldrons, modern luxuries like whirlpool baths, power showers, and
wireless internet. A full cooked breakfast is also included,
weapons and unpleasant devices used for extracting confessions! A stair lift is available for
much of the produce from their own walled kitchen garden.
those with limited mobility.

A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks
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the hidden hamlet of St Juliot, which appears undercurrents are strong and swimming is metal rails. The canal finally closed to officially opened in June 2000 by the Duke

CORNWALL
as Endelstow in Thomas Hardy’s novel A always unsafe. commercial craft in 1912 and now only two of Gloucester.
Pair of Blue Eyes. As a young architect, Hardy miles of the canal are passable. The Bude The history of the town and its canal can
worked on the restoration of the church and Bude Canal Trail follows this tranquil backwater be explored in the Town Museum, which
it was here, in 1870, that he met his future through some wonderfully peaceful and stands on the canal side in a former
wife, Emma Gifford, the rector’s sister-in-law. J Bude Canal Trail A Bude Castle unspoilt countryside. Part of the blacksmith’s forge. The story of Bude and
Emma later professed that the young B Town Museum H Bude Light 2000 redevelopment of the canal is the canal the surrounding area, including shipwrecks,
architect had already appeared to her in a interpretation centre housed within the railways, farming and geology, is told in a
A traditional seaside resort with sweeping
dream and wrote how, on first meeting him, TIC building. series of vivid displays.
expanses of sand, rock pools and Atlantic
she was “immediately arrested by his familiar Close to the entrance to the canal stands One of the high spots in the Bude
breakers, Bude has plenty to offer
appearance”. Much of the couple’s courtship battlemented Bude Castle, a small low calendar is the annual jazz festival, held in
holidaymakers and coastal walkers. A popular
took place along this wild stretch of coastline building overlooking Summerleaze beach. It August and featuring numerous
surfing centre, said to be where British surfing
between Boscastle and Crackington Haven. was designed by a local 19th-century performances, street parades and jazz
began, the town is a much favoured holiday
When Emma died more than 40 years later, physician, scientist and inventor, Sir workshops - even jazz church services.
destination in summer.
Hardy returned to St Juliot to erect a Goldsworthy Gurney. Now called the
The Bude Canal, built in the early 1820s,
memorial to her in the church. Following his Heritage Centre it is an attraction in its own
death in 1928, a similar memorial was erected
was an ambitious project that aimed to
right. The castle is interesting because it is
Around Bude
connect the Atlantic with the English Channel
to Hardy and, more than 70 years later, a thought to be the first building in Britain to
via the River Tamar. However, the only stretch
Thomas Hardy Memorial window was be constructed on sand. The castle rests on a MORWENSTOW
to be finished was that between Bude and
installed to mark the millennium. concrete raft - a technique developed by 5 miles N of Bude off the A39
Launceston. It was a remarkable feat of
engineering as the sea lock at the entrance to Gurney. Among his other inventions were a G Rev Stephen Hawker A Rectory
CRACKINGTON HAVEN
the canal was the only lock even though it ran steam jet, a musical instrument consisting of A Hawker’s Hut D Henna Cliff
7½ miles NE of Tintagel off the B3263
for 35 miles and rose to a height of 350 feet in glasses played as a piano, and the Bude Light,
One of the most dramatic places along this an intense light obtained by introducing Used to taking the full brunt of Atlantic
six miles. In order to achieve the changes in storms, this tiny village lies on the harshest
remarkable stretch of coastline, this tiny port level, a series of inclined planes, or ramps, oxygen into the interior flame and using
is overlooked by towering 400-foot cliffs, mirrors. He used this to light his own house stretch of the north Cornwall coast. Although
were used between the different levels, and a it can sometimes seem rather storm-lashed, it
which make it Cornwall’s highest coastal point. wheeled tub boat was pulled up the ramps on and also to light the House of Commons,
The small and narrow sandy cove where his invention replaced 280 candles and is a marvellous place from which to watch the
is approached down a steep-sided gave rise to the expression ‘in the limelight’. changing moods of the ocean. Not
wooded combe. It is difficult to The Bude Light served the House of surprisingly, shipwrecks have been common
see how sizeable vessels once Commons for 60 years and earned Gurney a along this stretch of coast. Many came to
landed here to deliver their cargoes knighthood. He is also remembered as being grief in storms, but it was not unknown for
of limestone and Welsh coal. Just the first man to make a long journey in a local criminals to lure unsuspecting ships onto
to the south of Crackington mechanical vehicle when he drove a steam the rocks by lighting lanterns on the cliff tops
Haven the path leads to a remote carriage from London to Bath and back. or the shore.
beach, curiously named The To celebrate the new millennium, the town The village’s most renowned inhabitant was
Strangles, where at low tide large commissioned Carole Vincent and Anthony its eccentric vicar and poet, the Rev Robert
patches of sand are revealed Fanshawe to design the Bude Light 2000, Stephen Hawker, who came here in 1834 and
amongst the vicious looking rocks. the first large-scale public sculpture to remained among his flock of “smugglers,
During one year alone in the combine coloured concrete with fibre optic wreckers and dissenters” until his death in
1820s, some 20 ships were said to lighting. It stands close to the castle and was 1875. A colourful figure dressed in a purple
Crooklets Beach, Bude
have come to grief here. The
A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks
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frock coat, fisherman’s jersey, and fishing to grief on its jagged rocks. Running back the house had to be altered to allow his KILKHAMPTON

CORNWALL
boots beneath his cassock, Hawker spent from the shore are the Welcombe and coffin to pass through the doorway. 4 miles NE of Bude on the A39
much of his time walking through his Marsland Valleys that are now a nature reserve
beloved countryside. When not walking, he and a haven for butterflies. To the south are LAUNCELLS The tall and elegant Church of St James
2½ miles E of Bude off the A3072 contains monuments to the local Grenville
could often be found writing verses and the headlands of Higher and Lower
family, many of them the work of Michael
smoking, opium by some accounts, in the Sharpnose Points. Rugged rocks, caused by A Church of St Swithin
Chuke, a local man and a pupil of Grinling
driftwood hut that he built 17 steps from the erosion, lie above a boulder-strewn beach, Set in a delightful wooded combe, the 15th- Gibbons. Equally notable are the magnificent
top of the precipitous Vicarage Cliff. Now while some of the outcrops of harder rock century Church of St Swithin was acclaimed carved bench ends, and the organ is one
known as Hawker’s Hut, it is the National have begun to form tiny islands. Also north of by Sir John Betjeman as “the least spoilt played by Henry Purcell when it was installed
Trust’s smallest property. the village is Henna Cliff, which has a sheer church in Cornwall”. It is notable for its fine in Westminster Abbey.
Though a bizarre character, Hawker was drop of 450 feet to the sea, making it the Tudor bench ends and for 15th-century floor
also one of the first people to show concern highest in Cornwall. From the cliff top there tiles made in Barnstaple. In the churchyard is
at the number of ships coming to grief along are spectacular views across to South Wales. the grave of the remarkable Sir Goldsworthy Bodmin
this stretch of coastline. He spent hours Gurney (1793-1875) whose inventions
STRATTON C Castle Canyke J Saints’ Way
monitoring the waves and would often climb included a prototype of incandescent lighting,
1 mile E of Bude on the A3072 A St Petroc’s Church D St Guran’s Well
down the cliffs to rescue shipwrecked crews or the high-pressure steam jet, and steam-driven
recover the bodies of those who had perished A Tree Inn A Bodmin Jail I Courtroom Experience
coaches that achieved a steady 15mph. There’s
among the waves. After carrying the bodies This ancient market town and one-time port is lots more information about Gurney at the H Shire Hall Gallery B Bodmin Town Museum
back to the village, he would give them a believed to have been founded by the Romans. Bude Heritage Centre. A Gilbert Memorial D Camel Valley Vineyard
proper Christian burial. Some 40 of these During the Civil War, the town was a
B Duke of Cornwall’s Regimental Museum
unfortunates lie buried in the churchyard. One stronghold of the Royalists and their
of the many ships wrecked off Sharpnose commander, Sir Bevil Greenville, made the I Bodmin & Wenford Railway
headland was the Caledonia, whose figurehead Tree Inn his centre of operations. (The inn is A Lanhyrdrock House
stands above the grave of her captain in of interest in its own right as it is constructed Situated midway between Cornwall’s two
Morwenstow churchyard. from the timbers of wrecked ships.) In May coasts, and at the junction of two ancient
Hawker’s other contribution to 1643, at the Battle of Stamford Hill, trade routes, Bodmin has always been an
Morwenstow was the Rectory, which he built Greenville led his troops to victory over the important town used, particularly, by traders
at his own expense and to his own design. As Parliamentarians. The dead of both sides were who preferred the overland journey to the sea
individual as the man himself, the house has buried in unmarked graves in Stratton voyage around Land’s End. Castle Canyke, to
chimneys that represent the towers of various churchyard. The battle is re-enacted in mid the southeast, was built during the Iron Age to
churches and Oxford colleges; the broad May each year by the Sealed Knot Society. defend this important route. A few centuries
kitchen chimney is in remembrance of his The Tree Inn was also the birthplace of later, the Romans erected a fort (one of a
mother. His lasting contribution to the church the Cornish giant, Anthony Payne, Sir Bevil’s string they built to defend strategic river
was to introduce the annual Harvest Festival in bodyguard, who stood over seven feet tall. crossings) on a site here above the River
1843, and his most famous poem is the They fought together, both here and later at Camel. The waymarked footpath, the Saints’
rousing Cornish anthem, The Song of Western Lansdown Hill, near Bath, where Greenville Way, follows the ancient cross-country route.
Men. The National Trust-owned land, between was killed. After helping Greenville’s son lead In the 6th century, St Petroc, one of the most
the church and the cliffs, is dedicated to this the Royalists to victory, Payne carried his influential of the early Welsh missionary saints,
remarkable man’s memory. master back to Stratton. After the war ended, moved from Padstow to Bodmin and
To the north of the village is Welcombe Payne continued to live at the Greenville established a priory here. The present St
Mouth, the graveyard of many ships that came manor house until his death. When he died, Church of St Swithins, Launcells
Petroc’s Church is the largest parish church

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in Cornwall at 151 feet long and 65 feet wide. at Bodmin Jail, an austere 18th-century a fine collection of small arms and machine made his fortune in tin and wool) and his

CORNWALL
Part of the tower contains masonry of the building, which continued as a prison up until guns. It also exhibits many of the colourful family lived here until the estate was given to
Norman period, but most of the present 1909. Visitors can tour the cells, including the uniforms worn by the Regiment before 1914, the Trust in 1953. Although partially destroyed
building was built between 1469 and 1472. It condemned cell, peopled now with rather as well as a permanent display of medals by fire in 1881, the mansion has been fully
is one of the few churches of the period of dismal dummies. Part of the jail is now a belonging to Harry Patch, one of the last restored and is now probably the grandest in
which building records survive almost licensed restaurant and lounge bar. survivors of World War One. Cornwall. Visitors can see that many of the
complete. The Mayor’s accounts are preserved The imposing Shire Hall, built in 1837, Nearby, Bodmin General Station is also the rooms combine the building’s original
at the County Records Office in Truro. The served as the County Court until 1988. Now base for the Bodmin and Wenford Railway, splendour with the latest in Victorian domestic
total recorded cost was £196 7s 4d (about half restored, it brings to life in The Courtroom a former branch line of the Great Western comforts and amenities. One special bedroom
a million pounds today). The ‘furniture’ - Experience the notorious murder in 1844 of Railway. The line closed to passenger traffic in belonged to Tommy Agar-Robarts, who was
pulpit, screens and seats - cost £92 under a Charlotte Dymond on lonely Bodmin Moor 1963 but has been splendidly restored. Today, killed at the Battle of Loos in 1915; it contains
separate contract with one Mathy More in and the trial of Matthew Weeks for the crime. steam locomotives take passengers on a many of his personal possessions. The grounds
1491. The timber was bought in Wales and Visitors can participate in the drama of the 13-mile round trip along a steeply graded line are equally magnificent and are known for the
some of this original woodwork is trial as jurors and enter the chilling holding through beautiful countryside. There are fabulous springtime displays of rhododendrons,
incorporated in the present screens and cells where the accused awaited his trial. occasional luncheon and dinner specials, and magnolias and camellias, a superb avenue of
priests’ seats. Amongst the church’s treasures In the jury rooms and public gallery on the driving instruction is also available. ancient beech and sycamore trees, a cob-and-
are the impressive Vyvian tomb first floor you will find the Shire Hall Gallery, To the south of the town, near the village of thatch summer house and a photogenic formal
commemorating one of the last priors, and a which hosts a varied programme of Cornish Cutmadoc, stands one of the most fascinating garden overlooked by the small estate church
remarkable Norman font poised on a single and West County artists and craftspeople, as late 19th-century houses in England, the of St Hydroc. In the woods are many unusual
column and carved with some alarming beasts. well as community exhibitions. Bodmin Town spectacular Lanhydrock House (National flowers and ferns as well as owls, woodpeckers
In the churchyard can be found one of the Museum provides an insight into the town’s Trust - see panel below). Surrounded by and many other birds.
many holy wells in Bodmin – St Guran’s Well past and that of the surrounding area. wonderful formal gardens, woodland and Three miles northwest of Bodmin, the
– which dates from the 6th century. Just a short distance from the town centre is parkland, it originally belonged to Bodmin’s Camel Valley Vineyard offers tours, ending
The only market town in Cornwall to Bodmin Beacon Local Nature Reserve. At the Augustinian priory. The extensive estate was with a tasting, and there’s a shop selling their
appear in the Domesday Book, Bodmin was beacon’s summit stands the 144 foot high bought in 1620 by Sir Richard Robarts (who still and sparkling wines.
chiefly an ecclesiastical town until the reign of Gilbert Memorial, Commemorating Sir
Henry VIII. However, this did not mean that Walter Raleigh Gilbert, a descendant of Sir
it was a quiet and peaceful place. During the Walter Raleigh and a distinguished general in Lanhydrock House
Tudor reign, it was the scene of three the Indian Army. From the beacon, there are Lanhydrock, Bodmin, Cornwall PL30 5AD
uprisings: against the tin levy in 1496; in 1549, exhilarating views over the town and moor. Tel: 01208 265950
against the imposition of the English Prayer Also easily reached from Bodmin is the e-mail: lanhydrock@nationaltrust.org.uk
Book and in support of Perkin Warbeck Camel Trail, a walking and cycling path along
website: www.nationaltrust.org.uk
against Henry VII in 1597. The town’s failure the River Camel to Padstow, which follows the One of the most fascinating and complete late 19th-century
to flourish when the railways arrived in houses in England, Lanhydrock is full of period atmosphere.
track bed of one of the country’s first railways.
Cornwall was due to its decision not to allow Although the gatehouse and north wing (with magnificent
Housed in The Keep near the railway 32yd-long gallery with plaster ceiling) survive from the 17th
the Great Western Railway access to the town
station in Bodmin, the Duke of Cornwall’s century, the rest of the house was rebuilt following a
centre. Not only did it fail to expand as other
Light Infantry Regimental Museum covers disastrous fire in 1881. The new house featured the latest in contemporary living, including
towns did but, when Truro became the seat of central heating. The garden has a stunning collection of magnolias, rhododendrons and
the military history of the County Regiment
the new bishopric, Bodmin missed out again. camellias, and offers fine colours right through into autumn. All this is set in a glorious estate
of Cornwall from its formation in 1702 to its
During World War One, England’s Crown of 364ha (900 acres) of woods and parkland running down to the River Fowey, with an
eventual amalgamation with the Somerset
Jewels and the Domesday Book were hidden extensive network of footpaths.
Light Infantry in 1950. The Armoury contains

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19th-centuries this isolated hostelry, on the Roughtor is a magnificent viewing point and
HELLAND BRIDGE POTTERY

CORNWALL
main route across the bleak moorland, the site of a memorial to the men of the
Helland Bridge, Bodmin, Cornwall PL30 4QR provided an ideal meeting place for smugglers Wessex Regiment who were killed during
Tel: 01208 75240 and other outlaws, as well as legitimate World War Two.
e-mail: paul@paul-jackson.co.uk
travellers journeying between Cornwall and Throughout this wild and beautiful moorland
website: www.paul-jackson.co.uk
the rest of England. Today, as well as there are scattered Bronze Age hut circles and
The artist Paul Jackson settled in Cornwall in 1979 and
has been selling his own exceptional work here at his
providing hospitality, the inn has a Museum field enclosures and Iron Age hill forts. Many
Helland Bridge Pottery since 1989. From pots and of Smuggling “devoted to the arts of villages in and around the moor grew up
vases to sensuous garden sculptures, Paul’s work is concealment and evasion”, which the arch around the monastic cells of Celtic missionaries
always distinctive and he has been widely exhibited
villain, Demon Darvey, the vicar of Altarnum and took the names of saints. Others were
throughout England and Wales. At his own studio,
however, there is chance not only to perhaps see the demonstrates with the aid of tableaux. There’s mining villages where ruined engine houses still
artist at work, but have him help you choose just the also a room dedicated to the memory of stand out against the skyline.
right piece for you from the largest and latest stock of Daphne du Maurier, which is full of
his work.
To the south of Bolventor is the mysterious
memorabilia of the writer including her natural tarn, Dozmary Pool, a place firmly
His series of pots featuring sensitive nude studies
has proved popular, as have his more recent saltglaze Sheraton writing desk on top of which is a linked with the legend of King Arthur.
works. His Abstract series of pots and jugs will appeal packet of du Maurier cigarettes named after Brought here following his final battle at
to those like bright, striking colours, while his Wave her father, the actor Gerald du Maurier.
series are clearly inspired by the sun, sea, rocks and
Slaughter Bridge, the king lay dying at the
There’s also a dish of Glacier Mints – Dame water’s edge, listening to “the ripple washing in the
surf of the Cornish coast. The artist’s new series of
sculptures can be placed inside or out, and with their Daphne’s favourite sweets. reeds, and the wild water lapping on the crag” as
flowing shapes in white, black, bronze or stone will Bodmin Moor, the bleak expanse of Tennyson described it in his poem The Passing
stand out wherever they’re placed.
moorland surrounding Bolventor, is the of Arthur. Close to death, Arthur asked his
smallest of the three great West Country friend, Sir Bedivere, to throw his sword
Around Bodmin interior. A 17th-century carved pulpit was
retained from the old church.
moors and an Area of Outstanding Natural Excalibur into the centre of the pool. As the
Beauty. Its granite upland is characterised by knight did so a lady’s arm “clothed in white samite,
On the moorland to the north of the village
BLISLAND saturated moorland and weather-beaten tors. mystic, wonderful” rose from the waters to
are numerous ancient monuments, including
3 miles NE of Bodmin off the A30 From here the rivers Inny, Lynher, Fowey, St receive the sword. Dozmary is not the only
the stone circle of Blisland Manor Common
A Church of St Protus and St Hyacinth Neot and De Lank flow to both the north and lake to claim the Lady of the Lake – Loe Pool
and Stipple Stone Henge Monument on
south coasts of Cornwall. In this
Hidden in a maze of country lanes, this Hawkstor Down.
wild countryside roams the Beast
moorland village has a tree-lined village green of Bodmin, an elusive catlike
BOLVENTOR
that has stayed true to its original Saxon layout creature that could be an escaped
10 miles NE of Bodmin off the A30
– an unusual sight on this side of the River puma or panther – or just another
Tamar. The part-Norman parish Church of A Jamaica Inn G Daphne du Maurier
creation of the fertile Cornish
St Protus and St Hyacinth is the only one in C Dozmary Pool B Museum of Smuggling imagination.
England dedicated to these brothers who were D Brown Willy D Roughtor At 1377 feet, Brown Willy is
martyred in the 3rd century. This church was
G King Arthur D Bodmin Moor the highest point of Bodmin
one of Sir John Betjeman’s favourites,
Moor and Cornwall, while, just to
described by the poet as “dazzling and Right at the heart of Bodmin Moor, this
the northwest, rises Roughtor
amazing”. The church was restored with great scenic village is the location of Jamaica Inn,
(pronounced row tor to rhyme
sensitivity in the 1890s by the architect the former coaching inn, immortalised by
with now tor), the moor’s second
FC Eden, who also designed the sumptuously Daphne du Maurier in her famous 1936
highest point. Standing on Dozmary Pool
coloured Gothic screen that dominates the novel of the same name. During the 18th and
National Trust-owned land,
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at Mount’s Bay, and Bosherstone and Llyn TREWINT Just to the northwest, near the The Cheesewring

CORNWALL
Llydaw in Wales are also put forward as 13 miles NE of Bodmin off the A30 peaceful village of St Clether, is another
alternative resting places for Excalibur. G John Wesley A Wesley Cottage holy well, standing on a bracken-covered
This desolate and isolated place is also linked shelf above the River Inny beside its
This handsome village often played host to 15th-century chapel. To the north is
with Jan Tregeagle, the wicked steward of the
John Wesley, the founder of Methodism, on Laneast where yet another of Bodmin
Earl of Radnor, whose many evil deeds
his preaching tours of Cornwall. One of the Moor’s holy wells is housed in a 16th-
included the murder of the parents of a young
villagers, Digory Isbell, built an extension to century building, close to a tall Celtic
child whose estate he wanted. As a punishment,
his house for the use of Wesley and his cross and the village’s original Norman
so the story goes, Tregeagle was condemned to
preachers. Now known as Wesley Cottage, church. Laneast was also the birthplace
spend the rest of time emptying the lake with a
the rooms are open for visits during the of John Adams, the astronomer who
leaking limpet shell. His howls of despair are
summer months. The rooms, thought to be discovered the planet Neptune.
still said to be heard to this day.
the smallest Methodist preaching place in the
By tradition, Dozmary Pool is bottomless, MINIONS
world, have been maintained as they were in
although it did dry up completely during a 16 miles NE of Bodmin off the B3254
the 18th century, and visitors can see the
prolonged drought in 1869. Close by is the
prophets’ room and the pilgrims’ garden. B Minions Heritage Centre D Golitha Falls
county’s largest man-made reservoir, Colliford
Digory Isbell and his wife are buried in
Lake. At 1000 feet above sea level, it is the C Hurlers Stone Circle C The Cheesewring
Trewint churchyard.
perfect habitat for long tailed ducks, dippers Boasting the highest pub in Cornwall,
and grey wagtails, and rare plants such as the ALTARNUN this moorland village was a thriving mining stones. One, which is probably true, involves
heath-spotted and frog orchids. 14 miles NE of Bodmin off the A30 centre during the 19th and early 20th centuries Daniel Gumb, a local stonecutter who was a
A Cathedral of the Cornish Moors with miners and quarrymen extracting granite, great reader and taught himself both
copper and lead from the surrounding area. It mathematics and astronomy. He married a
This moorland village, charmingly situated in
was also the setting for EV Thompson’s local girl and they supposedly made their
a steep-sided valley, is home to a splendid,
historical novel, Chase the Wind. One of the home in a cave under the Cheesewring. Before
15th-century parish church that is often
now disused mine engine houses has become the cave collapsed, numerous intricate carvings
referred to as the Cathedral of the Cornish
the Minions Heritage Centre. It covers could be seen on the walls, including the
Moors. Dedicated to St Nonna, the mother
more than 4000 years of life on the moorland, inscription D Gumb 1735. Another story tells
of St David of Wales, the church has a 108-
including the story of mining along with the that the Cheesewring was once the haunt of a
feet pinnacled tower that rises high above the
life and times of much earlier settlers. Druid who would offer thirsty passersby a
river. Inside, it is surprisingly light and airy,
Close to the village stands the impressive drink from a golden chalice that never ran dry.
with features ranging from Norman times
Hurlers Stone Circle. This Bronze Age The discovery at nearby Rillaton Barrow, in
through to some wonderful 16th-century
temple comprising three circles takes its name 1890, of a ribbed cup of beaten gold lying
bench end carvings. In the churchyard stands
from the ancient game of hurling, the Celtic beside a skeleton gave credence to the story.
a Celtic cross, thought to date from the time
form of hockey. Legend has it that the circles The chalice, known as the Rillaton Cup, is
of St Nonna’s journey here from Wales in
were men who were caught playing the game displayed in the British Museum.
around AD527. The waters of nearby
on the Sabbath. As a punishment, they were South of Minions, and not far from the
St Nonna’s well were once thought to cure
turned to stone. sizeable moorland village of St Cleer, is
madness. After immersion in the waters,
The Cheesewring, a natural pile of granite another holy well, St Cleer’s Holy Well,
lunatics were carried into the church for
slabs whose appearance is reminiscent of a covered by a beautiful 15th-century building.
mass. The process was repeated until the
cheese press, also lies close to the village. There used to be a total immersion (or
Cathedral of the Cornish Moors, Altarnun
patient showed signs of recovery.
Again, legends have grown up around these bowssening) pool here that was used for the

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96 The Countr y Living Guide to R ural England - Cor nwall 97

attempted cure of the insane. There are Forestry Commission in 1922, this attractive
TASTE OF THE WEST COUNTRY

CORNWALL
several other reminders of the distant past. and varied woodland is a haven for a wide
Fore Street, St Cleer, Liskeard, Cornwall PL14 5DA Dating back to Neolithic times, Trethevy variety of wildlife, as well as producing high
Tel: 01579 345985 Quoit is an impressive enclosed chamber quality Douglas Fir for the timber industry. In
e-mail: tasteofthewestcountry@yahoo.co.uk
tomb that originally formed the core of a vast medieval times, the woods were the location
website: www.tasteofthewestcountry.co.uk
earthwork mound. The largest such structure of an important Norman castle belonging to
‘Your Friendly Local Farm Shop’ in Cornwall, this quoit is believed to be more the Cardinham family, but all that remains
Taste of the Westcountry was taken over in July 2010 by than 5000 years old. Just to the west stands a today are an earthwork mound and a few
Rachel Cole, Sunshine and Chris Bolton. Rachel had previously
tall stone cross, King Doniert’s Stone, erected traces of the original keep.
been an employee of the Taste of the Westcountry and has
extensive knowledge of the business and the products supplied. in memory of King Durngarth, a Cornish
Sunshine and Chris had a delicatessen in Liskeard for three years king, believed to have drowned in the River ST NEOT
before moving here in 2010 to expand their fantastic range of Fowey in AD875. Downstream from the
11 miles E of Bodmin off the A38
local and international deli products. At the Taste of the West
Stone, the River Fowey descends through F St Neot C Carnglaze Slate Caverns
Country they support local producers whenever they can,
and are proud that many of the items come from field to dense broadleaved woodland in a delightful Once a thriving centre of the woollen
shop in 2 hours, with no more than 10 food miles series of cascades known as Golitha Falls.
involved. They believe in fair prices for their suppliers, in
industry, St Neot is famous for the splendid
This outstanding and well-known beauty spot 15th-century Church of St Anietus and, in
the best possible quality and above all in tasty, healthy
food and drink. The wide aisles allow plenty of space to is a National Nature Reserve. particular, its fabulous early 16th-century
fill up shoppers’ trolleys with all the goodies on display,
WARLEGGAN stained glass. Of the many beautiful scenes
and the quality, the range and the friendly, helpful staff
make this a great place to do the weekly shop. The locals 11 miles E of Bodmin off the A38 depicted here, perhaps the most interesting is
love the place and visitors to the area regularly drop in, that of St Neot, the diminutive saint after
helping to enhance the success of a business that benefits F Rev Frederick Densham E Cardinham Woods
whom the village is named. Although only
the local community. Rachel, Chris and Sunshine intend to
enhance the business by utilising their combined skills and
Warleggan’s most eccentric inhabitant was 15 inches tall, the saint became famous for his
experience to the full. undoubtedly the Rev Frederick Densham miracles involving animals. One story tells of
There’s always a fine choice of fresh meat, seasonal who arrived at this tiny and remote hamlet in an exhausted hunted doe that ran to St Neot’s
game, and a good selection of smoked fish. Also to be 1931. Immediately alienating his parishioners side. A stern look from the saint sent the
found are free-range eggs; cheese, butter, milk, cream, ice
by closing the Sunday school, Densham pursuing hounds back into the forest while the
cream and yoghurt; bread, cakes and super locally made
pasties; jams and preserves and chutneys; speciality continued by putting barbed wire around the huntsman dropped his bow and became a
sauces, oils and condiments; Cornish chocolates and fudge; rectory and patrolling the grounds with a pack faithful disciple. Another tale depicted in the
teas, coffees and herbal drinks; juices and smoothies; of German Shepherd dogs. In response, his church window tells of an angel giving the
wines, ciders and real ales; organic, vegetarian,sugar free/
low sugar products suitable for diabetics
flock stayed away from his church and one saint three fish for his well and adding that as
and gluten-free ranges; dry goods and record in the parish registry reads, “No fog. long as he only eats one fish a day there will
everyday shopping needs; plants and No wind. No rain. No congregation.” always be fish to eat. Unfortunately, when St
flowers; hand-made beauty products; and
Unperturbed, the rector fashioned his own Neot fell ill, his servant took two fish and
ecological household cleaning materials,
washing powders and liquids and toilet congregation from cardboard, filled the pews prepared them for his master. Horrified, Neot
rolls. and preached on as normal. It would, prayed over the meal, ordering the fish be
They constantly review and research however, appear that Densham did have a returned to the well and, as they touched the
the product range, and there are regular gentler side to his nature, as he built a water, they came alive again.
tasting days and special offers on
selected lines. The Taste of the West children’s playground in the rectory garden. Tied to the tower outside the church is an
Country, which is located 3 miles out of To the north and west stretch the peaceful oak branch that is replaced annually on Oak
Liskeard close to the A38, is open until backwaters of Cardinham Woods, enjoyed by Apple Day. The ceremony was started by
6pm every day.
both walkers and cyclists. Acquired by the Royalists wishing to give thanks for the oak

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98 The Countr y Living Guide to R ural England - Cor nwall 99

tree that hid Charles II during his flight from of its past importance and prosperity. The
BITTERSWEET

CORNWALL
the country. Guildhall was constructed in 1859, while the
9 Fore Street, Liskeard, Cornwall PL14 3JA To the south of St Neot are the Carnglaze Public Hall, opened in 1890, is still used as
Tel: 01579 349800 offices of the town council, as well as being
Slate Caverns where slate for use in the
e-mail: info@bittersweetclothing.co.uk
building trade was first quarried in the 14th home to a local Museum. Adjacent to the
website: www.bittersweetclothing.co.uk
century. Today, visitors can journey Passmore-Edwards public library stands
Liskeard’s Bittersweet clothing shop was started
by Sandra Gilbride back in the 80s with a underground and see the large chambers that Stuart House, a handsome Jacobean
vintage/retro clothes and accessories shop in were once used by smugglers as rum stores. residence where Charles I stayed in 1644 while
London. Sandra has always had an interest in engaged in a campaign against Cromwell at
One of these chambers is occasionally used
vintage clothing which probably influences her
selections. She offers her customers a wide for concerts and can seat 300 people. There’s nearby Lostwithiel. It is now an arts and
range of carefully selected styles that won’t go also a subterranean lake, 18 feet deep, that is heritage centre used for exhibitions, the sale
out of fashion and can be built on each season or filled with the clearest blue-green water. of arts and crafts, and other events. Finally, in
when needed! Sandra really believes that clothes
should not necessarily be kept for ‘best
Well Street, is one of Liskeard’s more curious
occasions’ and most of the clothes in her shop
LISKEARD features – an arched grotto that marks the site
can be worn casually, like a special coat or 13 miles E of Bodmin on the B3254 of Pipe Well, a medieval spring reputed to
jacket with jeans making you feel good on a daily
basis, or dressed up for a special occasion with a
D Looe Valley Line H Stuart House have had curative powers.
piece of jewellery or wonderful shoes. I Porfell Animal Land Wildlife Park To the west of Liskeard is an attraction
You’ll find some 40 or so different designers that will please all the family, Porfell Animal
featured on the racks here, ranging from Aganzi Situated on the undulating ground between
Land Wildlife Park at Trecongate. Within
to Yumi, and including leading names such as the valleys of the East Looe and Seaton
Avoca, Komodo and Amazing Woman. its 15 acres of fields bounded by streams and
Bittersweet also stocks a wide range of
Rivers, this picturesque and lively market town
woodland, visitors can meet wallabies,
accessories: jewellery by Rosie Fox, Martine was one of Cornwall’s five medieval stannary
marmosets, lemurs, zebra, meerkats and
Wester, Jackie Brazil and Block; shoes by Fly towns – the others being Bodmin, Lostwithiel,
London and Rascal; scarves from Lettuce; hats porcupines; feed the deer, goats, ducks and
Truro and Helston. The name comes from the
from Ignite and Braintree; bags by Owen Barry chickens; or just stroll through the woods or
and Wrayfield; ; hand-made rag bags by Julia in Latin for tin, stannum, and these five towns
relax in the tearoom housed in an attractive
Saltash; and much, much more. were the only places licensed to weigh and
Bittersweet has a very strong ethical stance.
old barn.
stamp the metal. Liskeard had been a centre
There are Fairtrade products from Kimodo,
Braintree, Insight and Pants to Poverty, and store
has its own sheep at St Brewerd whose wool they
for the mining industry for centuries. By the
early 19th century, after the construction of a
Looe
use to make throws and mittens. So if you are canal linking the town with Looe, vast
looking for something that’s distinctive, durable B Old Guildhall Museum
and stylish all at the same time, Bittersweet is the
quantities of copper ore and granite joined the
J Looe Island
store for you! cargoes of tin. In the 1850s, the canal was
replaced by the Looe Valley branch of the The tidal harbour at Looe, created by two
Great Western Railway. An eight-mile long rivers, the East Looe and West Looe, made
scenic stretch of the Looe Valley Line is still this an important fishing and seafaring port
open today, though the industrial wagons have from the Middle Ages through to the 19th
long since been replaced with passenger century. Originally two separate towns on
carriages. The route hugs the steep-sided either side of the estuary, East and West Looe
valley of the East Looe river and terminates in were first connected by a bridge in the early
the coastal town of Looe. 15th century. The present day seven-arched
Although it is a small town, Liskeard boasts bridge, dating from the 19th century, carries
some public buildings that act as a reminder the main road and links the two halves of the

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100 The Countr y Living Guide to R ural England - Cor nwall 101

GINGER TREDINNICK FARM SHOP

CORNWALL
Fore Street, East Looe, Cornwall PL13 1AD Widegates, Looe, Cornwall PL13 1QL
Tel: 01503 265065 Tel: 01503 240992 Fax: 01503 240010
e-mail: gingerinlooe@hotmail.com e-mail: sales@food4myholiday.com
website: www.gingerinlooe.co.uk website: www.food4myholiday.com
“Ginger is where East meets West Country!” So Tredinnick Farm Shop is a friendly, family-run
says owner Jayne Fox of her intriguing and exotic enterprise situated on the B3152 between Looe and
shop located in the main street of the charming Hessenford. Visitors will discover an impressive range
riverside town of East Looe. She travels each year to of locally sourced products, and the warm welcome
India and other countries to buy stock from her and the ever-helpful staff make this a great place to
regular suppliers thus cutting out the middle man and do the weekly shop. Fresh fruit and vegetables are
keeping costs down. Jayne buys as close to the the mainstay, with the pick of the season’s best on
source as possible, building up a strong relationship display, and Cornish bacon and sausages are always
with her suppliers and their families, always looking in great demand.
to buy at fair trade prices, something that is Other local and regional specialities include cider,
reflected in Ginger’s prices. scrumpy, wines and award-winning ales, cheeses and
other dairy products, Original Cornish fairings (spiced
Amongst the unusual items on display here
crunchy biscuits), Cornish sea salt, Cornish
you’ll find rare minerals from the Deccan Traps in
gingerbread, Cornish clotted cream shortbread, and
Maharastra. Buyer Vilas Varade sources the
Cornish spring water. The shop also sells everyday
minerals while travelling widely around the quarries
food and household essentials, along with shrubs,
of the magnificent Deccan Traps on his motorbike.
herbs and plants and often a display of local arts and
Ginger buys all the best mineralogical samples
crafts. Since opening its doors, Tredinnick Farm Shop
which he collects and has funded Vilas to set up a has attracted a loyal and growing local clientele, and
shop in Ajanta. If you are seeking quality samples it also supplies a number of restaurants, pubs, hotels and guest
of Indian Zeolites, looking to increase your mineral/ houses in the area.
fossil collection, or require tumble stones and
The excellent produce is the basis of the food served daily in the
crystals for alternative therapies, Ginger is the place tea rooms, from all-day breakfasts to cream teas and Sunday roasts.
to find them.
Tina Lapthorne and her family and staff also provide a unique
Other fascinating items on sale here include service that allows visitors, holidaymakers (and locals returning
intricate carved stoneware from Uttar Pradesh; from holiday) to order from home or while on holiday. It offers
beautiful jewellery from Uttaranchal; hand painted ‘chef-selected quality Cornish produce plus all the essentials
papier-mache from Kashmir; stunning wall hangings delivered to your holiday accommodation. With 48 hours notice
and throws from Gujarat, and fashions from Goa. they will deliver all over Cornwall and the South Devon border area.
Ginger are proud to offer a varied range of hand- Options include vegetarian packs, barbecue packs, holiday
made jewellery from places as diverse as New welcome packs – even a supply of pet food; and another service
Zealand, Afghanistan, India, Peru and the UK. www.cornish-food-hamper.co.uk will deliver gift hampers
Kesang and her mother in Utteranchal, India anywhere in the UK.
supply the shop with the most stunning silver
mounted polished stones including lapis, labradorite,
tiger eye and various quartz examples.
Ginger also sells wood ware originally from
Indonesia, tumble-stones from Southern Africa,
minerals from all around the world - in fact,
everything from snake charmers flutes to shell
boxes. There’s also an exceptional range of clothing
and accessories. So, whether you are looking for a
special gift, or looking to add to your mineral
collection, do visit or check out Ginger’s website for
ordering by mail.

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102 The Countr y Living Guide to R ural England - Cor nwall 103

town. Something of a jack-of- Looe Island

featured on numerous radio

CORNWALL
all-trades, over the years Looe and TV programmes.
has had a pilchard fishing fleet, Incidentally, Paul’s grandfather
has served the mineral was Bransby Williams, the only
extractors of Bodmin Moor and great star from the music hall
has also been a smugglers’ days to have his own BBC TV
depository. However, it is only show, in the early 1950s.
the fishing industry that remains Just to the south of St
from the town’s colourful past. Keyne, in the village of Daloe,
Looe is still Cornwall’s second is a Stone Circle of eight
most important port with fish standing quartz stones, said to
auctions taking place at East be older than Stonehenge.
Looe’s busy quayside market. Port Eliot House
Nearby is the famous Banjo ST GERMANS
7 miles NE of Looe on the
Pier, which is actually part of
the harbour wall with a circular area at its sea
Around Looe B3249 quenching his thirst Dando saw the stranger
stealing his game. Despite his calls, the
end and it does vaguely resembles a banjo. A St German’s Church A Port Eliot horseman refused to return the game. In a
ST KEYNE
Of the two distinct parts, East Looe, with Before the Anglo-Saxon diocese of Cornwall drunken frenzy, Dando swore that he would
5 miles N of Looe on the B3254
its narrow streets and twisting alleyways, is the was incorporated with Exeter in 1043, this follow the stranger to Hell in order to retrieve
older. Here, housed in a striking 15th-century C St Keyne’s Well C Stone Circle
rural village was a cathedral city. The present his prizes, whereupon the stranger pulled
building, is the Old Guildhall Museum, H Paul Corin’s Magnificent Music Machines St German’s Church stands on the site of Dando up onto his horse and rode into the
where can be seen the old magistrates’ bench the Saxon cathedral. Dating from Norman River Lynher. Neither the stranger on the
Named after one of the daughters of a Welsh
and original cells as well as displays detailing times, the present building was built as the horse nor the priest was ever seen again.
king who settled here during the 5th century,
much of Looe’s history. After the opening of great church for the Augustinian priory Adjoining the village is the Port Eliot
St Keyne is home to the famous holy well – St
the Looe Valley Line to passengers in 1879, founded here in 1162. As well as curiously estate, the home of the Earl and Countess
Keyne’s Well – that lies beneath a great tree
the development of the twin towns as a dissimilar towers dating from the 13th and St Germans. At the centre of the estate is the
about a mile outside the village. Newly
holiday resort began. Fortunately, the character 15th centuries, the church contains several magnificent stately house that has a history
married couples came here to drink – the first
of East Looe has been retained while West striking monuments to the Eliot family, dating back to AD937 when it was built as an
to taste the waters was said to be the one to
Looe is, essentially, a residential area. including one by Rysbrack commemorating Augustinian Priory. At the Dissolution of the
wear the trousers in the marriage.
More recently, Looe has established itself as Romanticised by the Victorians, the custom is Edward Eliot who died in 1722. Other Monasteries it became the property of the
Britain’s major shark fishing centre and still carried out by newly-weds today. treasures in the church include a glorious east earl’s ancestors. The present building has
regularly plays host to an International Sea window with stained glass by Burne-Jones, a 100 rooms, 82 chimneys, 13 staircases and a
Though a small village, St Keyne sees many
Angling Festival. River and estuary trips are superb Norman doorway as its west front and kitchen almost 100 yards from the nearest
visitors during the year as it is home to Paul
also available from the harbour. an old chair that bears a series of carvings dining room. The rooms are hung with family
Corin’s Magnificent Music Machines, a
Once a refuge for one of Cornwall’s most wonderful collection that opened in 1967. depicting Dando, a 14th century priest from portraits, including some by Reynolds,
notorious smugglers, Black Joan, Looe Housed in the old mill buildings, where Paul the priory. According to local stories, one Hoppner and Ramsey Robert. It is very much
Island, just off the coast, is now a bird was the last miller, this collection of Sunday Dando left his prayers to go out a lived-in house, but a long period of neglect
sanctuary. The island was made famous by the mechanical instruments covers a wide range hunting with a group of wild friends. At the before the present earl inherited means that
Atkins sisters who lived there and featured it of sounds and music from classical pieces to end of the chase, the priest called for a drink some of the furnishings and decoration are
in their books, We Bought an Island and Tales musicals, and includes a Wurlitzer from the and was handed a richly decorated drinking rather worn. As the present Countess has
from our Cornish Island. Regent Cinema, Brighton. Paul’s collection has horn by a stranger on a black horse. While written: “Some may recoil at what might be

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104 The Countr y Living Guide to R ural England - Cor nwall 105

described as the ‘thread-bareness’ of it 17th-century Guildhouse, which stands on Mount Edgcumbe Orangery Though it is hard to believe today,

CORNWALL
all…some poetic friends consider the house granite pillars and is now home to the town it was from here that one of the
to be a classic example of opulent and council and tourist information centre. Close largest smuggling fleets in
gilded decay”. by is Mary Newman’s Cottage, a quaint Cornwall operated. At the peak of
The house is all but joined to St Germans 15th-century building overlooking the Tamar their activities in the late 18th and
Church that was once the cathedral of Devon that was the home of Sir Francis Drake’s first early 19th century, thousands of
and Cornwall. Church and house stand on the wife. The interior has a kitchen and bedroom barrels of brandy, silk and other
banks of the Lynher estuary, surrounded by a and the garden has been planted in the contraband were landed here in
semi-circle of densely planted woodland and a Elizabethan style. secret and transported through
stunning landscaped park laid out by Saltash Museum and Local History sleeping villages to avoid the
Humphrey Repton in the 1790s. The house Centre opened in 2000 and contains a small attentions of the revenue men. It
and park are only open for 100 days from permanent display about the history and well- was also at Cawsand Bay that the
spring to early summer, an arrangement with known characters of Saltash. Royal Navy fleet used to shelter
the Treasury that cedes inheritance taxes in before the completion of the
lieu of art treasures being made available to TORPOINT Plymouth Breakwater in 1841,
public viewing for certain periods each year. 11½ miles E of Looe on the A374 formal gardens contain the National leaving the welcome legacy of a large number
A Antony House E Antony Woodland Gardens Collection of Day Lilies. of inns.
SALTASH Further southwest again, and at the
11½ miles NE of Looe on the A38 This small town grew up around a ferry CREMYLL
service that ran across the Hamoaze (as the southernmost point of Mount Edgcumbe
12½ miles E of Looe on the B3247
A Royal Albert Bridge A Tamar Bridge Country Park, rises the spectacular Rame
Tamar estuary is called at this point) to
A Guildhouse A Mary Newman’s Cottage A Mount Edgcumbe House D Rame Head Head, which guards the entrance into
Devonport in the 18th century. From here
B Saltash Museum there are excellent views over the water to the A Eddystone Lighthouse Plymouth Sound. From the 400 foot-high
Royal Navy Dockyards and HMS Raleigh, the cliffs there are superb views, but this beautiful
A medieval port on the River Tamar, Saltash Linked to Plymouth by a passenger ferry,
naval training centre for ratings and artificer headland has its own special feature – the
was once the base for the largest river steamer Cremyll is an excellent place from which to
apprentices. Commissioned in 1940, ruined 14th-century St Michael’s Chapel, from
fleet in the southwest. Today, it remains the explore Mount Edgcumbe House, the
HMS Raleigh is also the home of the Royal which a blazing beacon warned of the coming
Gateway to Cornwall for many holidaymakers 16th-century home of the Earls of Mount
Marine Band (Plymouth). of the Armada. In the little hamlet of Rame
who cross the river into Cornwall via one of Edgcumbe. They moved here from Cotehele
itself is the older Church of St Germanus,
the town’s mighty bridges. Designed by To the north of the town, overlooking the House after Piers Edgcumbe married Jean
which is still lit by candles; for centuries its
Isambard Kingdom Brunel in 1859, the iron- River Lynher as it meets the Tamar, is Antony Durnford, an heiress with considerable
west tower and spire acted as a landmark for
built Royal Albert Bridge carries the railway, House (National Trust), a superb example of estates including the Cremyll ferry. The
sailors. The Eddystone Lighthouse, which
while alongside is the much more slender a Queen Anne house. Built of pale silver-grey gardens here, overlooking Plymouth Sound,
can be seen on a clear day, lies 10 miles
Tamar Bridge, a suspension road bridge that stone between 1711 and 1721, it has been the have been designated as one of the Great
offshore from Rame Head.
was opened in 1961, replacing a ferry service ancestral home of the influential Carew family Gardens of Cornwall. The 10 acres of
that had operated since the 13th century. for almost 600 years. It contains a wonderful grounds feature classical garden houses, WHITSAND BAY
collection of paintings (many by Sir Joshua statues, follies, an exotic Shell Seat, and the 8 miles E of Looe off the B3247
Though older than Plymouth, on the other
Reynolds), tapestries and furniture. National Camellia Collection.
side of the Sound, Saltash is now becoming a E Monkey Sanctuary
Surrounding the house are the gardens and To the southwest of Cremyll are the two
suburb of its larger neighbour, following the
grounds landscaped by Humphry Repton in small and attractive villages of Cawsand and Running between Rame Head and the hamlet
construction of the road bridge. However,
the late 18th century, including the delightful Kingsand. By some administrative quirk, for of Portwrinkle, this bay has an impressive
Saltash has retained much of its charm and
Antony Woodland Gardens, which are at centuries they were placed in different stretch of beach that is more a series of coves
Cornish individuality. There’s an impressive
their best in the spring and autumn. The counties: Cornwall and Devon respectively. than one continuous expanse of sand. The

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seaside village of Portwrinkle developed fisherman’s cottages built around a narrow

WESLEY HOUSE GALLERY

CORNWALL
around its medieval harbour. Further west tidal inlet. All routes in this lovely village
Big Green, Polperro, Cornwall PL13 2QT along the coast, at the coastal village of seem to lead down to its beautiful harbour. It
Tel: 01503 272759 Murrayton, is the famous Monkey Sanctuary, is still a busy fishing port, where there is
e-mail: enquiries@wesleyhousegallery.co.uk
the world’s first protected colony of normally an assortment of colourful boats to
website: www.wesleyhousegallery.co.uk
Amazonian woolly monkeys. The sanctuary be seen. Boat trips from the harbour to
Located in the heart of the picturesque fishing
village of Polperro is the
was set up in 1964 to provide a safe Fowey, Looe and Polruan are available during
Wesley House Gallery, owned and run by environment for monkeys rescued from zoos the summer months.
Wendy Carr and Maggie Livesey who took over or abandoned as pets, and its inhabitants roam For centuries dependent on pilchard fishing
the business in 2006. The house, incidentally, is freely in the gardens of the outdoor for its survival, Polperro also has a long
named for John Wesley who stayed here in
1760. As well as displaying the work of a wide
enclosures. Plants for the monkeys to eat are association with smuggling. During the 18th
range of artists, whose work often focuses on grown in a forest garden, while the Tree Top century, the practice was so rife that nearly all
Polperro and the surrounding area, the beautifully Café takes care of hungry humans. of the inhabitants were involved in the
appointed gallery caters for collectors of Carn
shipping, storing or transporting of
Pottery, Winstanley cats and fine art. The gallery POLPERRO
is also renowned for its quality gifts, jewellery contraband. To combat this widespread
3 miles SW of Looe off the A387
and cards problem, HM Customs and Excise established
The gallery’s pottery includes pieces from B Polperro Heritage Museum of Smuggling the first ‘preventive station’ in Cornwall here
Carn Pottery, based at Nancledra in West
Polperro is many people’s idea of a typical in the 1800s. At the Polperro Heritage
Penwith, all hand-made and beautifully decorated
by J M Beusmans. Dunoon Pottery is famous for Cornish fishing village as its steep, narrow Museum of Smuggling, housed in a former
its range of mugs in fine bone china and fine streets and alleyways are piled high with pilchard factory, a whole range of artefacts
stoneware. Also available are items from Jane
Adams’ quirky collection of sheep, cats, dogs,
chickens and cows. Not to be missed are Mark ANGEL
Smith’s delightfully humorous boats and beach
huts. He also creates unique ceramic “paintings” 8 Lansallos Street, Polperro, Cornwall PL13 2QU
representing the Cornish landscape. Tel: 01503 272077
Artists represented in the gallery include Mike e-mail: info@angelinspire.co.uk
Praed, a very well-known artist from West website: www.angelinspire.co.uk
Cornwall, whose Cornish scenes are instantly
recognisable. Glyn Macey is a growing name in Inspiration is certainly an important part of Angel, an
the art world, with his vibrant depictions of exciting new gift shop and gallery close to the harbour in
Cornish seascapes. Nicholas Smith is building a Polperro. Owner Kerry Bromfield can be found painting in
reputation for his detailed portraits of specific her open studio at the back of the shop, where she will
locations. be displaying and selling her own work as well as that of
many other local artists and craftspeople. Some of these
If you are planning to stay in this lovely spot,
will also be visiting to demonstrate their talents in the
Wendy and Maggie can offer you comfortable
shop, whose walls and shelves are filled with a whole
bed and breakfast accommodation above the
host of beautifully-made, unique gift items.
gallery. You will find yourself very much part of
the family, which consists of your two hosts and Angel is located inside what is quite an inspirational
their enthusiastic pets, Freddie (the dog) and building itself, a picturesque old place from the early
Magic (the cat). The room features a king-size 1600s, with low ceilings and the intimate feel of walking
bed, en-suite shower, tea- and coffee-making into someone’s sitting room rather than into a store. It
facilities, colour TV, DVD and VCR. After a good isn’t surprising that it looks so appealing and inspiring, as
night’s sleep, you have a choice of full English or Kerry has worked in the interior design business since the
Continental breakfast. The menu features local, free-range and organic wherever possible. Free 1980s, and as well as the arts and crafts she sells she
parking is available for those travelling by car, while for those arriving on public transport in also offers an interior design service. Her talents speak for
Plymouth, Looe or Liskeard, a collection service is offered for a small fee. themselves as soon as you walk through the door.

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and memorabilia are used to illustrate the terrorise shipping along this stretch of coast
CRY OF THE GULLS

CORNWALL
myths and legends surrounding the characters and beyond. A devastating raid by the French in
who dodged the government taxes on luxury 1457, that saw much of Fowey burnt to the 2 Webb Street, Fowey, Cornwall PL23 1AP
goods. A model of Lady Beatrice, a traditional ground, was in direct retaliation for attacks Tel: 01726 833838 e-mail: info@cryofthegulls.co.uk
website: www.cryofthegulls.co.uk
gaff-rigged fishing boat, can also be seen. made by the Gallants.
From Polperro, the coastal walk westwards Later, in the 19th century, much of the Open all year: Monday - Saturday: 10.00 am – 5.30 pm
Sunday: 11.00 am – 4.00 pm
to Polruan provides five miles of scenic china clay from St Austell was exported
splendour and gives access to some enchanting through Fowey. It is still a busy place as huge The sound of the gulls is never far from Cry of the Gulls, a
beautiful gallery situated in the heart of the stunning Cornish
secluded sandy beaches. ships continue to call at this deep water estuary town of Fowey. The gallery provides a visual feast for the
harbour alongside fishing boats and pleasure eyes and a warm welcome making it a pleasure to visit at any
FOWEY craft. The town’s Fowey Museum, housed in time of the year.
8 miles W of Looe on the A3082/B3269 part of the medieval town hall, is an excellent Cry of the Gulls has a strong reputation for promoting work of
the utmost excellence produced by a wide range of highly skilled
B Fowey Museum G Sir Arthur Quiller-Couch place to discover Fowey’s colourful past, from
British artists drawn from throughout the UK. The gallery
G Daphne du Maurier I Fowey Royal Regatta the days of piracy through to the china clay showcases an eclectic range of work by many well-established
A St Catherine’s Castle J Coastal Footpath
exports of the 19th century. and emerging artists, jewellers, potters and sculptors. The
successful website includes an online shop, news page, map and
Naturally, there are many inns here including
D Polruan A Polruan Blockhouse opening time information.
the King of Prussia, named after Frederick the
Guarding the entrance to the river from which Great whose victories in the Seven Years’ War
it takes is name, Fowey (pronounced Foy – to made him a popular figure in England; and the
rhyme with joy) is a lovely old seafaring town Ship Inn, originally a town house built by the
with steep, narrow streets and alleyways leading influential Rashleigh family in 1570.
down to one of the most beautiful natural Fowey has two important literary
harbours along the south coast. An important connections. Sir Arthur Quiller-Couch (or
port during the Middle Ages, the town exhibits Q), who lived for over 50 years at The Haven,
architectural styles ranging from Elizabethan to on the Esplanade just above the Polruan ferry.
Edwardian. St Fimbarras Church was rebuilt in Sir Arthur was a Cambridge professor,
1460 by the Earl of Warwick after being sometime Mayor of Fowey, editor of the
destroyed by French marauders; nearby the Oxford Book of English Verse and author of
architecturally flamboyant Place House dates several books connected with Fowey – he
back to the 13th century and has
been home to the Treffry family
since that time.
As a busy trading port, Fowey
naturally attracted pirates and was
the home of the ‘Fowey Gallants’,
who preyed on ships in the
Channel and engaged in raids on
the French coast. Brought together
during the Hundred Years’ War to
fight the French, these local
mariners did not disband at the end Fowey Town Quay
of the hostilities but continued to
A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks
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called it Troy Town. He died in 1944 after chain of fortifications to protect the harbours the Du Maurier family but not open to

CORNWALL
being hit by a car and was buried in along the south coast. From Readymoney the public. If you arrive in Bodinnick by
St Fimbarrus churchyard. Sir Arthur Quiller- Cove, the Coastal Footpath is clearly marked the ferry, you pass the gates to the house
Couch is remembered by a monolithic all the way around to Polkerris. The walk takes as you walk off the landing slip.
memorial that stands on the coast facing in many fine viewpoints, including the castle
Fowey. It was close to the site of this and the wonderful daymark on Gribbin Head. GOLANT
monument that, in 1644, Charles I narrowly This beacon was built in 1832 to help seafarers 8 miles W of Looe off the B3269
escaped death from a sniper’s bullet while find the approaches into Fowey harbour. C Castle Dore Earthworks
making a survey of Cromwell’s forces at Facing St Catherine’s Castle across the Close to this delightful waterside hamlet,
Fowey. From the Bodinnick ferry there is a mouth of the River Fowey and reached by which is home to yet another of
delightful walk across mainly National Trust ferry from Fowey, Polruan is an impossibly Cornwall’s many holy wells, are the Restormel Castle
land that leads up to the ‘Q’ memorial and picturesque village. Tiny cottages cling to the Castle Dore Earthworks. This densely
then back via the Polruan ferry to Fowey. steep hillside, threaded with winding steps, overgrown Iron Age lookout point is
The second literary figure was the novelist alleys and passageways. Life here revolves thought to be the site of King Mark’s palace on the River Fowey and the granite bridge
Daphne du Maurier who lived at Menabilly around the quay where the ferry lands. Beside and is therefore linked with the legend of seen today was completed in the 15th century.
house (private), which featured as ‘Manderley’ the harbour, busy with pleasure craft and some Tristan and Iseult. Set beside the river is the tranquil Coulson
in her most famous novel Rebecca (1938). Each industrial vessels, stands the late 15th-century Park, named after the American millionaire
Upriver and found in a sleepy creek is the
year in mid May, a general arts and literature Polruan Blockhouse, one of a pair of Nathaniel Coulson who grew up in
quiet village of Lerryn, which was once a busy
festival is held in her memory. A ‘tented artillery buildings constructed to guard the Lostwithiel. On the opposite bank of the river
riverside port. Those familiar with Kenneth
village’ is set up overlooking the picturesque narrow entrance into Fowey. from the town lies Bonconnoc Estate, the
Grahame’s novel, The Wind in the Willows, may
Fowey Estuary and the events include talks by Just to the north of Polruan, and facing home of the Pitt family who gave Britain two
find the thickly wooded slopes of Lerryn
a sparkling mix of star names, guided walks, Fowey, is the pretty hamlet of Bodinnick Prime Ministers: William Pitt the Elder and his
Creek familiar as they are believed to have
drama, community events and free where the actor Gerald du Maurier bought a son, William Pitt the Younger.
been the inspiration for the setting of this
entertainment. There’s also a permanent holiday home beside the landing slip. He ever-popular children’s story. Throughout the town there are reminders
exhibition featuring her life and work at the named it Ferryside and it was here that his of Lostwithiel’s once important status. These
Literary Centre at the tourist office. daughter Daphne lived before her marriage LOSTWITHIEL include the remains of the 13th-century Great
Another major event is the Fowey Royal and where she wrote her first novel 10 miles NW of Looe on the A390 Hall, which served as the stannary offices, and
Regatta and Carnival, which takes place in The Loving Spirit. The house is still owned by B Lostwithiel Museum the early 18th-century Guild Hall which is
mid August (usually the third full now occupied by the Lostwithiel Museum. It
A St Bartholomew’s Church A Restormel Castle
week). In addition to the sailing tells the story of this interesting town as well
events there are firework displays Nestling in the valley of the River Fowey and as displaying photographs of everyday life
on the Quay, Red Arrow displays, surrounded by wooded hills, Lostwithiel’s from the late 1800s to the present day. Nearby
raft races, children’s events, live name – which means lost in the hills – is St Bartholomew’s Church with its striking
music on the Quay, grand draws perfectly describes its location. This small octagonal spire. It was built in the 13th
and carnival processions. market town was the 13th-century capital of century and dedicated to the patron saint of
To the south of Fowey is Cornwall. As one of the stannary towns, tin tanners - tanning at that time was an
Readymoney Cove whose expanse and other raw materials were brought here for important trade in the town.
assaying and onward transportation until the Lostwithiel’s strategic position as a
of sand acts as the town’s beach.
mining activity caused the quay to silt up and riverside port and crossing place led to the
Further along are the sparse
the port moved further down river. construction of Restormel Castle upstream
remains of St Catherine’s Castle,
Polruan Village Lostwithiel was also a major crossing point
built by Henry VIII as part of a from the town, high on a mound overlooking

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the wooded Fowey valley. The Black Prince tower are still mightily impressive.
THE DELI

CORNWALL
stayed here in 1354 and 1365, but following Also imposing is the 12th century
6-8 Church Street, Launceston, Cornwall PL15 8AP the loss of Gascony soon afterwards, most Southgate Arch, the only remaining gateway
Tel: 01566 779494 of the contents of any value were removed of the three that once provided access to
e-mail: shelley@thedeli.me.uk
and the castle was deserted. The ruins of Cornwall’s only walled town.
Located in the historic Cornish town of Launceston,
the huge circular keep with its deep moat The most striking building in the town
The Deli is a family run business serving delicious
homemade food. The Deli opened in November 2009 remain impressive. In summer, the site is however is St Mary Magdalene Church. Its
and has gone from strength to strength. It is owned one of the best picnic spots in Cornwall, walls of sturdy Cornish granite are covered
by Shelley Alexander and Kate Akielan and there is boasting stunning views of the peaceful
seating for around 17 diners. A tasty selection of
with delicate carvings that include angels,
gourmet sandwiches are available as well as food
surrounding countryside. roses, pomegranates and heraldic emblems.
from around the world and a large selection of quality The church was built by a local landowner, Sir
cheese on sale.
The owners have developed a strong catering
Launceston Henry Trecarrel, in the early 1500s. He had
section of the business and Shelley and Kate cater for
started building a manor house nearby when
a wide range of events including weddings and A Launceston Castle A Southgate Arch both his beloved wife and infant son died
birthdays. Homemade ‘ready meals’ are also available A St Mary Magdalene Church A Lawrence House within days of each other. Overwhelmed with
from The Deli as well as hampers, which can be sent
grief, Sir Henry abandoned the manor house
in the post. Ring for details. D Launceston Steam Railway
Shelley and Kate’s passion for good quality food is
and devoted the rest of his life to building this
J Tamar Valley Discovery Trail
fairly clear to see and The Deli is well worth a visit. magnificent church in their memory.
The attractive establishment can be found off the A30 trunk road at the Gateway to Cornwall, in Situated on the eastern edge of Bodmin Elsewhere in the town, the streets around
the ancient Cornish capital of Launceston. Moor close to the county border with Devon, the castle are filled with handsome buildings,
Launceston (pronounced locally Lawnson) is including the impressive Lawrence House
one of Cornwall’s most pleasant inland towns that was built in 1753 for a wealthy local
DAVID PARISH MENSWEAR
and was a particular favourite of Sir John lawyer. Given to the National Trust to help
5-7 Broad Street, Launceston, Cornwall PL15 8AA Betjeman. The capital of Cornwall until preserve the character of the street, the house
Tel: 01566 772987 1838, it guarded the main overland route into is now a museum that dedicates its numerous
e-mail: richard.parish@hotmail.co.uk
the county. Shortly after the Norman displays to the history of the area.
website: www.davidparishmenswear.co.uk
Conquest, William I’s half-brother, Robert of To the west of the town, and running
David Parish Menswear is a popular gentleman’s outfitters
located in the historic town square of Launceston, which is Mortain, built the massive Launceston through the beautiful Kensey Valley, the
the gateway to and ancient capital of Cornwall. The Castle overlooking the River
independent menswear shop stocks an extensive range of Kensey. Visited by the Black
quality clothing to suit a wide range of ages and sizes at
Prince and seized by Cornish
affordable prices.
Owner Richard Parish prides himself on providing the kind
rebels in 1549, the castle changed
of traditional, one-to-one, personal service that is not so hands twice during the Civil War
widely seen these days. before becoming an assize court
As well as a fine selection of items on the shelves and and prison. George Fox, the
rails, which offer everything a gentleman needs to look well
presented, the shop also offers a few extra services. A full
founder of the Society of Friends,
hire wear collection for weddings and dinners is available as was detained here in 1656. The
well as bespoke tailoring. Choose from a wide selection of court was famous for imprisoning
cloths, including fine Italian wools to heavy Scottish Tweed, and executing ‘on the nod’.
and have your suit made in the style you require.
Although now in ruins, the 12-
David Parish Menswear is a delightful place to shop and sells top brands such as Ben Sherman, Launceston Steam Railway
Gabicci, Double Two and Brook Taverner and Jockey. Off-road parking is not a problem. foot thick walls of the keep and

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Launceston Steam Railway takes visitors on

Around Launceston have closed, some of the mine

CORNWALL
a nostalgic and scenic journey. Travelling in buildings have been immortalised by
either open or closed carriages, passengers can Turner in his great painting, Crossing the
GUNNISLAKE
enjoy a round trip along five miles of narrow- Brook, which also captures Gunnislake’s
10 miles SE of Launceston on the A390
gauge track to Newmills and back. The famous bridge. The River Tamar is tidal
locomotives used to haul the trains were built Often referred to as the first village in as far as the weir upstream near
in the 1880s and 1890s by the famous Hunslet Cornwall, it was here in the 1520s that Sir Newbridge, and salmon fishermen
Engine Company of Leeds and once worked Piers Edgcumbe built the New Bridge over continue to come to Gunnislake, as
on the slate carrying lines high in the the River Tamar. It continues to serve as one they have done since medieval times, to
mountains of North Wales. of the major gateways into the county. In catch the fish as they travel up river to
Launceston is also the start, or the finish, fact, this 180-foot-long granite structure their spawning grounds.
remained the lowest crossing of the river by Calstock Railway Viaduct
of the Tamar Valley Discovery Trail, a 30-
road right up until the 1960s when the CALSTOCK
mile footpath from here to Plymouth that
massive suspension bridge linking Saltash 12 miles SE of Launceston off the A390 spoil heaps, can still be seen, along with the
takes in many of the villages scattered along
the Cornwall-Devon border. Passing through with Plymouth was opened. The 16th-century A Railway Viaduct A Cotehele remains of the village’s boat-building industry.
old mining country, past market gardens and bridge meant that this charming village also The decline of Calstock as a port came with
B Cotehele Quay I Tamar Valley Line
through ancient river ports, walkers of the had an important strategic value. During the the construction of the huge Railway
Civil War, it was the centre of bitter fighting. Well known for its splendid views of the
trail will also see the wealth of bird, plant and Viaduct, which carries the Tamar Valley Line
In the 18th and 19th centuries the village Tamar Valley, the village of Calstock was an
wildlife that the varying habitats along the southwards to Plymouth. Completed in 1908,
came alive with mining. Though the mines important river port in the 19th century when
way support. this giant 12-arched viaduct, the first in the
vast quantities of tin, granite and copper ore
country to be constructed of concrete blocks,
were brought here for loading on to barges to
stands 120 feet above the river. Probably one
MIDDLE TREMOLLET FARM be transported down the Tamar to the coast.
of Britain’s most picturesque branch lines, the
In the countryside surrounding Calstock the
Coads Green, Launceston, Cornwall PL15 7NA Tamar Valley Line can still be taken down to
Tel: 01566 782416 remains of old mine workings, along with the
the coast. Though the river has lost most of
e-mail: btrewin@talk21.com
website: www.cornish-farm-accommodation.co.uk
Brian and Vivien Trewin have run this traditional 19th-century
Cotehele
Victorian farmhouse as a B&B for over 30 years, so there’s St Dominick, nr Saltash, Cornwall PL12 6TA
nothing about the local area they don’t know. Middle Tremollet Tel: 01579 351346
Farm is set in half an acre of its own mature gardens, and there
are breathtaking views across fields to Caradon Hill and to the
e-mail: cotehele@nationaltrust.org.uk
outstanding natural beauty of nearby Bodmin Moor. website: www.nationaltrust.org.uk
The owners really go that extra mile to make their guests’ visit At the heart of this riverside estate sits the granite and
something special, which starts with a Cornish cream tea on slatestone house of Cotehele, built mainly between 1485
arrival and providing a book of circular walks in the area. Guests and 1627 and a home of the Edgcumbe family for
also have a conservatory to enjoy, with barbecue facilities centuries. Intimate chambers feature large Tudor
available in the summer and a roaring log fire in the winter.
fireplaces and rich hangings. Outside, the formal gardens
The accommodation is rated 4-star by the English Tourist overlook the richly planted valley garden below, with
Board, with an extra Silver Award which only goes to the very
medieval dovecote, stewpond and Victorian summer
best establishments. The farm has two ensuite double rooms and
one twin room with a super-sized bed and its own private
house. At the quay interesting old buildings house the
bathroom. All rooms have the latest flat-screen TVs, tea- and Edgcumbe Arms tea-room and an outstation of the
coffee-making facilities, and hairdryers. There’s a generous National Maritime Museum. The restored sailing barge
breakfast too, cooked on the Aga, and in the evening a choice of nearby pubs and restaurants. Shamrock is moored alongside.

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116 The Countr y Living Guide to R ural England - Cor nwall 117

times. The quay buildings now house an

its commercial traffic, it is a starting point for HAMPTON MANOR

CORNWALL
outstation of the National Maritime Museum,
Tamar River canoe expeditions. Alston, Stoke Climsland, Callington PL17 8LX
an art and craft gallery and a licensed tearoom.
Just to the southwest of the village, Tel: 01579 370494
The restored Tamar sailing barge Shamrock is
Cotehele (see panel on page 113) represents e-mail: hamptonmanor@sapanet.com
moored alongside the museum.
one of the best-preserved medieval estates website: www.hamptonmanor.co.uk
held by the National Trust. Mainly built CALLINGTON Hampton Manor is a country house hotel set in beautiful,
between 1485 and 1539, this low granite 9½ miles S of Launceston on the A388 secluded gardens in the peaceful countryside within the
Tamar Valley, on the border of Devon and Cornwall. This
fortified manor house was the principal home H Mural Project A Dupath Holy Well impressive establishment is located in a designated Area of
of the Edgcumbe family until the mid 16th Outstanding Natural Beauty and offers six high quality en-
C Cadsonbury Hillfort D Kit Hill suite guest rooms. Hampton Manor is extremely popular with
century when they moved their main residence
Situated on the fertile land between the rivers walkers visiting the area to make the most of the spectacular
to Mount Edgcumbe. Along with its Great
surroundings. Within a half hour drive are numerous
Tudor Hall, fabulous Flemish and Mortlake Tamar and Lynher, Callington is now rich attractions; the market towns of Tavistock and Launceston;
tapestries and period furniture, the house fruit-growing country. During the 19th the seaside city of Plymouth, the grandeur of Dartmoor and
incorporates some charming features such as century, the surrounding landscape was very many tranquil National Trust gardens and houses.
different as it was an active mining area. The This four star country house hotel is an ideal retreat for people wanting to get away from the
the secret spy hole in the Great Hall and a
hustle and bustle of every-day life. Evenings can be spent relaxing in the wonderful conservatory,
tower clock with a bell but no face or hands. area’s heritage, landscape and character are which overlooks more than two acres of land.
Surrounding the house are, firstly, the grounds, depicted on many of the walls of Callington’s Guests can dine in the hotel’s licensed restaurant at reasonable prices. Discounts are offered
containing exotic and tender plants that thrive buildings, thanks to the town’s interesting and for groups, for short breaks and for longer stays. Small conference facilities are available and are
in the mild valley climate and, beyond that, the unusual Mural Project. regularly used by Christian church groups. In the summer months it doubles as a games room for
families with children.
estate with its ancient network of pathways About a mile outside the town, Dupath
that allow exploration of the valley. Holy Well is enclosed in a fine granite
The River Tamar runs through the estate building of 1510. The water in the basin was NORTH PETHERWIN
and close to an old cider house and mill is believed to cure whooping cough. 5 miles NW of Launceston off the B3254
Cotehele Quay, a busy river port in Victorian Overlooking the River Lynher, southwest E Tamar Otter Sanctuary
of this old market
Found above the River Ottery, this village is
town, is Cadsonbury
home to the Tamar Otter Sanctuary, a
Hillfort – a massive
branch of the well-known Otter Trust,
Iron Age bank and
dedicated to breeding young otters for release
ditch that are thought
into the wild to prevent the species from
to be the remains of
becoming extinct in lowland England. Visitors
a local chief ’s
can watch the otters playing in large natural
residence. To the
enclosures, see them in their breeding dens, or
northeast rises Kit
holts, and watch the orphans in the
Hill, now a country
rehabilitation centre. Also here are a dormouse
park, where a 19th-
conservation project, refreshment and gift
century chimney
shop, lakes with waterfowl and an area of
stack built to serve
woodland where fallow and Muntjac deer
one of the area’s
roam freely.
mines adds a further
80 feet to the hill’s
Cotehele Quay Kit Hill Chimney Stack
summit.

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or shop? guidebooks
118 The Countr y Living Guide to R ural England - Cor nwall 119

ADVERTISERS AND PLACES OF INTEREST ADVERTISERS AND PLACES OF INTEREST

CORNWALL
ACCOMMODATION, FOOD AND The Bead Store, Mevagissey, St Austell pg 68 GIFTWARE St Eval Candle Company, St Eval, Wadebridge pg 77
DRINK The Blue Door Studio, Perranuthnoe, Angel, Polperro, Looe pg 107 Stargazey, Mousehole, Penzance pg 29
Penzance pg 27 The Bead Store, Mevagissey, St Austell pg 68 Tyto, Falmouth pg 46
The Angel Hotel, Helston pg 57
Bohemia Guild, Penzance pg 10 Bittersweet, Liskeard pg 98
Burdock Vean Hotel, Mawnan Smith,
Charlestown Gallery, Charlestown, JEWELLERY
Falmouth pg 54 Bohemia Guild, Penzance pg 10
St Austell pg 66 Charlestown Gallery, Charlestown, St Austell pg 66 Alverton Gallery, Penzance pg 8
Chelsea House Hotel, Falmouth pg 45
The Cornish Store, Falmouth pg 44 The Cornish Store, Falmouth pg 44 The Bead Store, Mevagissey, St Austell pg 68
The Coaching Inn, St Columb Major pg 72
Cry Of The Gulls, Fowey pg 109 Cry Of The Gulls, Fowey pg 109 Bittersweet, Liskeard pg 98
The Cribbage, St Columb Major pg 72
Gauge Gallery, St Ives pg 20 Ginger, East Looe pg 100 Bohemia Guild, Penzance pg 10
First and Last Cottages, Sennen, Penzance pg 31
Ginger, East Looe pg 100 Harbour Light, Boscastle pg 85 Charlestown Gallery, Charlestown, St Austell pg 66
Glencree House, Penzance pg 9
Helland Bridge Pottery, Helland Bridge, Inspirations, Helston pg 56 The Cornish Store, Falmouth pg 44
Hampton Manor, Alston, Callington pg 117
Bodmin pg 92 Iriss, Penzance pg 7 Gauge Gallery, St Ives pg 20
Higher Rosevine Farm, Portscatho, Truro pg 49
Iriss, Penzance pg 7 Just Delights, Penryn pg 48 Ginger, East Looe pg 100
Hotel Penzance, Penzance pg 11
Just Delights, Penryn pg 48 Just Like This, Falmouth pg 40 Inspirations, Helston pg 56
Middle Tremollett Farmhouse, Coads Green,
Kuiama Crafts, St Ives pg 17 Kuiama Crafts, St Ives pg 17 Just Like This, Falmouth pg 40
Launceston pg 114
The Leach Pottery, St Ives pg 22 No 36, Penzance pg 12 The Olive Grove, Perranarworthal, Truro pg 50
The Old Rectory St Juliot, St Juliot,
The Little Picture Gallery, Mousehole, The Olive Grove, Perranarworthal, Truro pg 50 Savoy House Gallery and Holiday
Boscastle pg 85
Penzance pg 28 Paper Mountain & Scrap Angels Craft Supplies, Accommodation, Mullion, Helston pg 59
The Olive Grove, Perranarworthal, Truro pg 50
Mevagissey Fine Art, Mevagissey, St Austell pg 69 St Agnes pg 36 Simply Occasions, St Columb Major pg 72
The Organic Panda, St Ives pg 18
The Organic Panda, St Ives pg 18 Savoy House Gallery and Holiday Sparkles, Falmouth pg 41
Provedore, Falmouth pg 45
Paper Mountain & Scrap Angels Craft Supplies, Accommodation, Mullion, Helston pg 59
Savoy House Gallery and Holiday
Accommodation, Mullion, Helston pg 59
St Agnes pg 36 Simply Occasions, St Columb Major pg 72 PLACES OF INTEREST
Pendeen Pottery & Art Gallery, Pendeen, Sisley, Falmouth pg 41
South West Interiors - Trevarn B&B, Mawnan Chyverton Garden, Zelah, Truro pg 37
Penzance pg 33 Spruce Tree, St Ives pg 16
Smith, Falmouth pg 54 Cotehele, St Dominick, Saltash pg 115
Porthilly Gallery, Rock, Wadebridge pg 80 St Eval Candle Company, St Eval,
Trewithian Farm, Portscatho, Truro pg 49 Lanhydrock House, Lanhydrock, Bodmin pg 91
Savoy House Gallery and Holiday Wadebridge pg 77
The Union Hotel, Penzance pg 13 Museum of Witchcraft, Boscastle pg 84
Accommodation, Mullion, Helston pg 59 Stargazey, Mousehole, Penzance pg 29
Wesley House Gallery, Polperro, Looe pg 106 National Lobster Hatchery, Padstow pg 79
Spruce Tree, St Ives pg 16 Tyto, Falmouth pg 46
White Hart Hotel, Hayle pg 24 National Seal Sanctuary, Gweek, Helston pg 55
The Square Gallery, St Mawes, Truro pg 52
Trevarno Estate and Garden, Trevarno,
ACTIVITIES Stargazey, Mousehole, Penzance pg 29 HOME & GARDEN Helston pg 58
Tremayne Applied Arts, St Ives pg 19
The Health & Beauty Studio, Angel, Polperro, Looe pg 107
Tyto, Falmouth pg 46 SPECIALIST FOOD AND DRINK
St Columb Major pg 72 Bohemia Guild, Penzance pg 10
The Waterman’s Gallery, Falmouth pg 43
National Lobster Hatchery, Padstow pg 78 The Cornish Store, Falmouth pg 44 The Buttermilk Shop, Wadebridge pg 78
Wesley House Gallery, Polperro, Looe pg 106
Paper Mountain & Scrap Angels Craft Supplies, Cry Of The Gulls, Fowey pg 109 The Courtyard Deli, Falmouth pg 42
Wildlife Wood Carver, St Erth, Hayle pg 25
St Agnes pg 36 Ginny’s Flowers, St Columb Major pg 72 Deli, Launceston pg 112
Bittersweet, Liskeard pg 98
Paradise Park, Hayle pg 23 Inspirations, Helston pg 56 Deli-Cious of St Mawes, St Mawes, Truro pg 52
Bohemia Guild, Penzance pg 10
Iriss, Penzance pg 7 The Duchy Smoked Fish Company Ltd, Par pg 67
Countrywise, Wadebridge pg 76
ANTIQUES AND RESTORATION David Parish Menswear, Launceston pg 112
Just Delights, Penryn pg 48 Fore Street Deli, St Ives pg 18
Look Again Antiques & Country Furniture, Kuiama Crafts, St Ives pg 17 I Should Coco, St Ives pg 15
Harbour Light, Boscastle pg 85
St Mawes, Truro pg 52 Look Again Antiques & Country Furniture, The March Hare, Falmouth pg 46
Just Like This, Falmouth pg 40
St Mawes, Truro pg 52 The Olive Grove, Perranarworthal, Truro pg 50
The March Hare, Falmouth pg 46
ARTS AND CRAFTS The Olive Grove, Perranarworthal, Truro pg 50 Pooley’s Meat Pantry, Camborne pg 39
No 36, Penzance pg 12
Philip Martin Estate Agents, St Mawes, Truro pg 52 Provedore, Falmouth pg 45
Alverton Gallery, Penzance pg 8 The Shoe Tree, Truro pg 62
South West Interiors - Trevarn B&B, Taste Of The Westcountry, St Cleer, Liskeard pg 96
Angel, Polperro, Looe pg 107 Tyto, Falmouth pg 46
Mawnan Smith, Falmouth pg 54 Tredinnick Farm Shop, Widegates, Looe pg 101

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