Review Article

Received: 11 October 2014, Revised: 12 January 2015, Accepted: 13 January 2015 Published online in Wiley Online Library: 23 March 2015

(wileyonlinelibrary.com) DOI 10.1002/jat.3129

Metals in cosmetics: implications for

human health
Sylwia Borowska and Malgorzata M. Brzóska*
ABSTRACT: Cosmetics, preparations repeatedly applied directly to the human skin, mucous membranes, hair and nails, should be
safe for health, however, recently there has been increasing concern about their safety. Unfortunately, using these products in
some cases is related to the occurrence of unfavourable effects resulting from intentional or the accidental presence of chemical
substances, including toxic metals. Heavy metals such as lead, mercury, cadmium, arsenic and nickel, as well as aluminium, clas-
sified as a light metal, are detected in various types of cosmetics (colour cosmetics, face and body care products, hair cosmetics,
herbal cosmetics, etc.). In addition, necessary, but harmful when they occur in excessive amounts, elements such as copper, iron,
chromium and cobalt are also present in cosmetic products. Metals occurring in cosmetics may undergo retention and act directly
in the skin or be absorbed through the skin into the blood, accumulate in the body and exert toxic effects in various organs. Some
cases of topical (mainly allergic contact dermatitis) and systemic effects owing to exposure to metals present in cosmetics have
been reported. Literature data show that in commercially available cosmetics toxic metals may be present in amounts creating a
danger to human health. Thus, the present review article focused on the problems related to the presence of heavy metals and
aluminium in cosmetics, including their sources, concentrations and law regulations as well as danger for the health of these
products users. Owing to the growing usage of cosmetics it is necessary to pay special attention to these problems. Copyright
© 2015 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.

Additional supporting information may be found in the online version of this article at the publisher’s web-site.

Keywords: heavy metals; aluminium; cosmetics; natural cosmetics; law regulations; metal nanoparticles; concentrations; toxic effects;
topical action; systemic action

Introduction preparations lies with the manufacturers, distributors and im-

porters (OJEU, 2009; Report for International Cooperation on Cos-
Cosmetics have been commonly used by people all over the metic Regulations, 2011).
world since ancient times in order to clean, improve or change Unfortunately, the use of cosmetics in some cases is related to
the appearance of the skin, hair, nails and teeth; however, re- the occurrence of unfavourable effects resulting from the presence
cently a growing popularity of these products, especially natural of chemical substances in these preparations. It has been esti-
preparations, has been observed. Cosmetic products include mated that in a large number of currently available cosmetic prod-
face and body care preparations (creams, lotions, deodorants, ucts as many 10 000 chemical substances, including parabens,
soaps, etc.), colour cosmetics (lipsticks, mascaras, eye shadows, phthalates, p-phenylenediamine, formaldehyde, dioxane, triclosan
nail polishes, etc.), and hair products (shampoos, colours, sprays, and numerous metals, are present (Ullah et al., 2013; Darbre and
gels, etc.). Among them, natural products (henna, various cos- Harvey, 2014). The presence of chemical substances in cosmetics
metics containing plant extracts and minerals) as well as prepa- is connected with their intentional use as antioxidants, preserva-
rations containing nanoparticles (especially UV filters) can be tives, emollients, surfactants, pigments, fragrances, UV absorbers,
distinguished (Sin and Tsang, 2003; Jallad and Espada-Jallad, etc. Moreover, apart from the substances used intentionally,
2008; Abdel-Fattah and Pingitore, 2009; Atz and Pozebon, whose presence in cosmetics is allowed and in many countries
2009; Corazza et al., 2009; Mudholkar, 2012; Raj et al., 2012; strictly governed by the relevant legislation, other dangerous
Sukender et al., 2012; Ullah et al., 2013; Umar and Caleb, 2013; chemical substances of accidental origin may also be present in
Faruruwa and Bartholomew, 2014). these products (Harada et al., 2001; Lee et al., 2008; Al-Saleh
According to the European cosmetic law described by the Coun- et al., 2009; Oyedeji et al., 2011; Adepoju-Bello et al., 2012; Volpe
cil Directive 93/35/EEC of 14 June 1993 amending for the sixth et al., 2012; Khalid et al., 2013; Orisakwe and Otaraku, 2013; Soares
time Directive 76/768/EEC on the approximation of the laws of and Nascentes, 2013).
the Member States relating to cosmetic products ’a cosmetic
product mean any substances or preparations intended to be
placed in contact with the various external parts of the human
body (…) or with the teeth and mucous membranes of the oral
cavity (…) to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their ap- *Correspondence to: M. M. Brzóska, Department of Toxicology, Medical University of
pearance and/or correcting body odours and/or protecting them Bialystok, Adama Mickiewicza 2C street, 15-222 Bialystok, Poland.
E-mail: malgorzata.brzoska@umb.edu.pl
or keeping them in good condition‘ (OJEC, 1993). By definition,
all cosmetics permitted for use should be completely safe for users Department of Toxicology, Medical University of Bialystok, Adama Mickiewicza 2C
and the final responsibility for ensuring the safety of these Street, 15-222 Bialystok, Poland
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J. Appl. Toxicol. 2015; 35: 551–572 Copyright © 2015 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.
 S. Borowska and M. M. Brzóska

One of the groups of dangerous substances present in cos- et al., 2003; Aguilar et al., 2008; Cao et al., 2010; Zhuang et al., 2014).
metics are heavy metals, including particularly toxic elements such Herbal medicines and dental amalgams are other sources of expo-
as lead (Pb), cadmium (Cd), nickel (Ni), arsenic (As) and mercury sure to toxic metals (Başgel and Erdemoğlu, 2006; Jallad and
(Hg). Apart from these toxic trace metals, elements such as chro- Espada-Jallad, 2008; Gasser et al., 2009; Sukender et al., 2012;
mium (Cr), iron (Fe), copper (Cu) and cobalt (Co) – necessary, but Oliveira et al., 2014). An important source of exposure to toxic
dangerous when they occur in excessive amounts – may also be metals is also cigarette smoking (Galazyn-Sidorczuk et al., 2008;
present in cosmetics. In addition, some cosmetics contain alumin- Ashraf, 2012). The repeated use of cosmetics containing toxic
ium (Al), classified as a light metal. Owing to the harmfulness of metals is an additional source of exposure to these elements
metals to human health, their content in cosmetic products is (Fig. 1), and the available literature provides evidence that in some
prohibited or restricted by the regulations of some countries, but cases cosmetic preparations may be a source of excessive amounts
in many countries there are no regulations in this regard (OJEU, of metals creating a danger for human health (Warley et al., 1968;
2009). The European Regulations describe over 1200 various toxic Chan et al., 2001; Soo et al., 2003; Guillard et al., 2004; CDC, 2005,
substances whose presence are prohibited in cosmetic products. 2012a, 2013a; Özkaya et al., 2009; Li et al., 2010; Al-Dayel et al.,
Among them, there are metals particularly dangerous for human 2011; Benz et al., 2011; Chakera et al., 2011; Lin et al., 2012;
health such as Pb, Cd, As, Ni and Hg. Owing to the lack of uniform Dickenson et al., 2013; Tang et al., 2013).
legislation regarding toxic metals presence in cosmetics all over Taking into account the growing use of cosmetics as well as the
the world and the possibility of accidental contamination of cos- reports on the presence of dangerous metals in the cosmetic prod-
metic products with these elements, they are detected in various ucts currently available worldwide and the cases of unfavourable
types of currently commercially available cosmetics (colour health effects due to their presence in cosmetics, it was warranted
cosmetics, face and body care products, hair cosmetics, herbal cos- to pay special attention to problems related to metals occurrence
metics, etc.), in some cases in dangerous concentrations (Amry in these products. Thus, the present paper focused on this matter
et al., 2011; Lin et al., 2012; Dickenson et al., 2013; Tang et al., including the sources, concentrations and allowed limits of metals
2013). Although absorption of metals from cosmetics through content in various types of cosmetics, as well as the danger for hu-
the skin is rather low (Filon et al., 2009), these elements may accu- man health caused by these elements. This paper is a critical re-
mulate in the skin and internal organs, where they can exert toxic view of worldwide literature concerning this issue and it draws
effects. Numerous cases of topical (mainly allergic contact attention to the fact that cosmetics usage may be an additional
dermatitis) and systemic effects caused by exposure to metals source of exposure to toxic metals, and that adverse effects some-
present in cosmetics have been reported (Warley et al., 1968; times noted after the application of cosmetics may be related to
Waldron, 1979; Shaltout et al., 1981; Van Ketel and Liem, 1981; the presence of metals in these products. The harmfulness of
Goh et al., 1989; Zemba et al., 1992; Chan et al., 2001; Saxena heavy metals and Al for humans is well known and widely reported
et al., 2001; Soo et al., 2003; Guillard et al., 2004; CDC, 2005, and numerous data show that these metals may create a risk for
2012a, 2012b; Foulds, 2006; Tang et al., 2006, 2013; Held and health even at low exposure (Guillard et al., 2004; Gump et al.,
Bayerl, 2008; Özkaya et al., 2009; Li et al., 2010; Amry et al., 2011; 2011; Karagas et al., 2012; Sommar et al., 2013). However, until
Benz et al., 2011; Chakera et al., 2011; Travassos et al., 2011; Lin now no sufficient attention has been given to cosmetics as a po-
et al., 2012; Dickenson et al., 2013). tential source of exposure to metals. In order to underline that
Owing to the common pollution of the natural environment by the health problems related to metals presence in cosmetics are
metals in developed countries and their numerous industrial appli- still current, in this article we have presented all the contemporary
cations people are exposed to them during the lifetime via food, cases of topical effects and poisonings caused by metals coming
water or air as well as from occupational sources (Fig. 1; Hengstler from cosmetics which we were able to find in scientific literature
(Medline, Scopus, Elsevier, etc.) since the year 2000 up until now.

Sources of Metals in Cosmetics

Data available in the literature show that toxic metals are present
in various types of cosmetics at concentrations varying within rel-
atively wide ranges from almost undetectable values to as high as
3.76 g Pb kg–1 in lipsticks (Al-Saleh et al., 2009) or sometimes even
higher in body care products (790 g Pb kg–1; CDC, 2005), 65.133 g
Hg kg-1 in skin-lightening creams (Chan et al., 2001), 6.259 g Cd kg-1 in
kohl (Amry et al., 2011) as well as 50.0 g Al kg-1 (Al-Dayel et al., 2011),
359.44 mg Ni kg-1 (Omolaoye et al., 2010) and 11.1 mg As kg-1 in eye
shadows (Atz and Pozebon, 2009). Metals present in cosmetic
products may originate from various sources (Fig. 1). Using plants
contaminated with metals in cosmetics production will result in
the herbal products pollution (Başgel and Erdemoğlu, 2006; Jallad
and Espada-Jallad, 2008; Gasser et al., 2009; Sukender et al., 2012).
Available data show that herbs widely used in the cosmetic indus-
try which grow in industrialized countries, are not infrequently
excessively contaminated with metals (Baranowska et al., 2002;
Fijałek et al., 2003; Başgel and Erdemoğlu, 2006; Arpadjan et al.,
Figure 1. Cosmetics as an additional source of human exposure to metals. 2008; Gasser et al., 2009; Tokalioğlu, 2012).
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Metals in cosmetics

Compounds of some metals are used for purpose in the cos- the key melanin-forming enzyme (Hostynek, 2003), compounds of
metic industry, mainly as UV filters in face and body care products this metal are used on purpose in skin-lightening creams and thus
and pigments in coloured cosmetics. The law of the European the highest concentrations of this element are found in this type of
Union (EU) allows the presence of various pigments in cosmetics cosmetics (Weldon et al., 2000; Chan et al., 2001; Soo et al., 2003;
in a wide range of colours: white (Al, barium sulphate, bismuth Tang et al., 2006, 2013; Held and Bayerl, 2008; Özkaya et al., 2009;
chloride oxide, calcium carbonate, calcium sulphate, magnesium Li et al., 2010; Benz et al., 2011; Chakera et al., 2011; CDC, 2012b;
carbonate, silver, 4% silver nitrate – only for colouring eyelashes Dickenson et al., 2013).
and eyebrows, as well as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide – which Another source of metals may also be derivatives of crude oil
are rather more popular as UV filters), green [chromium (III) oxide, such as mineral oils, paraffin, silicones and aliphatic hydrocarbons
chromium (III) hydroxide, cobalt aluminium oxide], brown (Cu, used in the production of many cosmetic preparations. These in-
gold – Au) and iron oxides in colours such as orange, red, yellow gredients by themselves are harmful to human health and in addi-
and black (Fig. 2; OJEU, 2009). This law allows the use of 25% tita- tion they may contain metals such as Cd, As, Cr and Cu (Stigter
nium dioxide as an UV filter and silver chloride (in the concentra- et al., 2000).
tion of 0.004% in ready-to-use preparations) deposited on
titanium dioxide as a preservative in cosmetic products (OJEU,
2009). The EU law does not allow the presence of other metals or
Regulations on Metals Content in Cosmetics
their compounds which could be used as pigments owing to their Owing to metals harmfulness to human health, their use in
colours, for example lead oxide (yellow or red) and lead dioxide cosmetic products is prohibited or restricted by regulations of
(black; OJEU, 2009). As a result of using of metal-based pigments many countries. However, it is important to underline that per-
in colour cosmetics, metal concentrations (especially Pb, Cr, Fe) missible concentrations of metals are individually specified by
in preparations of this type are higher than in other cosmetic prod- particular regulations and are different for various products and
ucts (Al-Saleh et al., 2009; Omolaoye et al., 2010; Al-Dayel et al., countries (MHLW, 2000; FDA, 2007, 2009, 2013, 2014; OJEU,
2011; Zakari et al., 2014). Because Hg inactivates tyrosinase, being 2009; HC-SC, 2012).

Figure 2. The Regulation No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament on metals and their compounds presence in cosmetics (OJEU, 2009). Ag, silver; Al, al-
uminium; As, arsenic; Au, gold; Cd, cadmium; Co, cobalt; Cr, chromium; Cu, copper; Hg, mercury; Ni, nickel; Sb, antimony; Se, selenium; Pb, lead; Tl, thallium; Zr,
zirconium.
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J. Appl. Toxicol. 2015; 35: 551–572 Copyright © 2015 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. wileyonlinelibrary.com/journal/jat
 S. Borowska and M. M. Brzóska

According to the Regulation No 1223/2009 of the European Par- authors who determined metals in cosmetics and whose data
liament and the Council, the presence of cosmetic products of were used for the preparation of this review article, is the lack of
metals particularly dangerous for human health, such as Cd, Pb, certified cosmetic materials (Ciaralli et al., 1996; Al-Saleh et al.,
As, Ni and Hg, is prohibited in the countries of the EU, with the ex- 2009; Atz and Pozebon, 2009; Omolaoye et al., 2010). That is why
ception of some Hg compounds only (Fig. 2; OJEU, 2009). Other reference materials other than cosmetic products are used by
metals such as zinc (Zn), silver (Ag), and strontium (Sr) are allowed some investigators to check the reliability of metal measurements
with special restrictions (Fig. 2). According to this Regulation, alu- in cosmetics (Sainio et al., 2000; Al-Dayel et al., 2011).
minium zirconium chloride hydroxide complexes (AlxZr(OH)yClz)
and aluminium zirconium chloride hydroxide glycine complexes
can be used in antiperspirants in a concentration of 20% as anhy- Metals in Colour Cosmetics
drous aluminium zirconium chloride hydroxide and the antiperspi-
rants containing aluminium complexes mentioned above cannot The use of colour cosmetics by women is a very popular daily cus-
be applied to irritated or damaged skin (OJEU, 2009). In addition, tom all over the world (Mudholkar, 2012). These cosmetics are of-
Al and some of its compounds are allowed to be used as ten left on the skin for a whole day and are repeatedly used.
colourants in cosmetics (Fig. 2; OJEU, 2009). It is important to un- Among the products that contain toxic metals, the most hazardous
derline that according to the EU Regulation No 1223/2009 (article seem to be preparations which are applied to the mucous mem-
17) small quantities of non-intended prohibited substances, in- branes, such as lipsticks and lip glosses (Gondal et al., 2010; Khalid
cluding toxic metals, may be present in final cosmetic products et al., 2013; Soares and Nascentes, 2013). In the case of cosmetics
as technically unavoidable contaminations if these preparations applied to the lips there is a risk of their direct oral ingestion with
are safe for human health. Unfortunately, the safe levels of these food when eating or by licking lips. Eye shadows and mascaras are
technically unavoidable contaminations in cosmetics are not applied to the periocular area of the face where the skin is the thin-
described. nest, which enables easy absorption of various substances,
In the USA, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has stated including metals, from cosmetics into the blood (Pratchyapruit
that lead acetate is safe for use in cosmetics that colour the hair et al., 2007). Some impurities and intended ingredients of eye cos-
and approved its use at the maximum content of 0.6% (w/v) Pb metics can cause allergic reactions of the eyelids and eyes
in the product (FDA, 2007, 2009). The FDA accepts the contami- irritation.
nation of lead acetate used as a colour additive with As and Metals may be absorbed from cosmetics through the conjunc-
Hg at levels up to 3 and 1 mg kg-1, respectively (FDA, 2007). tiva and during lacrimation. The thin epidermis of the eyelids
The FDA limit for Pb in colour additives is 20 mg kg-1 (FDA, may be mechanically broken during eye rubbing, enabling the
2014). The highest acceptable level of Hg (as unavoidable contam- penetration of pigments containing metals into the blood circula-
ination) according to the FDA is 1 mg Hg kg-1, but when Hg tion, so eye shadow should not be applied to broken skin (Sainio
compounds are used on purpose as preservatives in cosmetics ap- et al., 2000; Omolaoye et al., 2010). In addition, slow percutaneous
plied to the periocular area the acceptable limit is 65 mg Hg kg-1 absorption of metals from cosmetics into the body through
(FDA, 2013). Health Canada has established the maximum healthy skin is also possible (Omolaoye et al., 2010). Individuals
acceptable limits of heavy metal concentrations in cosmetics at the sensitized to metals, especially to Ni (van Ketel and Liem, 1981;
following levels: Pb – 10 mg kg-1, Hg – 3 mg kg-1, Cd – 3 mg kg-1, Goh et al., 1989; Zemba et al., 1992; Foulds, 2006; Travassos et al.,
As – 3 mg kg-1 and antimony (Sb) – 5 mg kg-1 (HC-SC, 2012). In 2011), should completely avoid eye shadows because sensitizing
Japan, the use of Cd and its compounds, as well as Hg and its metals can occur as impurities in this sort of colour cosmetics
compounds in cosmetics, is prohibited (MHLW, 2000). Apart from (Table 1; van Ketel and Liem, 1981; Goh et al., 1989; Sainio et al.,
the regulations in the EU, the USA and Canada, there are no 2000; Goossens, 2004). Ni is the main metallic allergen from
precise regulations concerning limits of metals content in final make-up. In dyes used in the manufacture of coloured cosmetics
cosmetic products in other countries. Although, in spite of the lack in Korea, metals which can cause contact allergy were detected
of appropriate regulations in some countries, there exist data on in the following concentrations: 0 – 19.5 mg Ni kg-1, 0.16 – 97.6
these elements concentrations in cosmetics produced and used mg Cr kg-1, 0 – 789.9 mg Fe kg-1, 0 – 6.6 mg Cu kg-1 and 0 –
in these countries. 177.9 mg Co kg-1 (Kang et al., 2006; Lee et al., 2008). In Nigeria,
It seems important to emphasize that the fact that the usage of the concentrations of metals in dyes used in the production of
a metal for the production of cosmetics is prohibited does not eye shadows were as follows: 6.11 – 55.0 mg Pb kg-1, 0 – 8.89
mean that this element cannot be present in the final product in mg Cd kg-1, 80.56 – 359.44 mg Ni kg-1, 0 – 150 mg Cr kg-1, 1.67 –
a detectable amount. Even the most rigorous EU Regulation (OJEU, 136.67 mg Cu kg-1 and 15.0 – 253.33 mg Co kg-1 (Omolaoye
2009) allows for the presence of trace amounts of prohibited heavy et al., 2010).
metals (as technically unavoidable contaminations). Thus, the con- The available literature data show that metals, such as Pb, Cd,
centrations of heavy metals in cosmetic products are more impor- Ni, As, Hg, Cr, Co, Cu, Fe and Al are present in many types of
tant than the mere fact of their presence. That is why it is necessary colour cosmetics produced and used in various parts of the
to monitor commercially available cosmetics regarding the con- world (Table 1; Supplementary Table S1). Apart from the data
centrations of metals, especially the most toxic trace elements, in presented in Table 1, there is plenty of other information about
order to recognize whether the concentrations are within the the concentrations of toxic heavy metals in colour cosmetics;
ranges of safe values. Highly advanced analytical methods (atomic however, it is impossible to present all of them in one article
absorption spectrometry – AAS and especially inductively coupled and thus only the more recent and most important findings
plasma mass spectrometry – ICP-MS) used nowadays in metal have been provided to emphasize that the problem of toxic
analysis allow the detection of even trace amounts (part per mil- metals presence in these products is still current. In addition,
lion – ppm and part per billion – ppb) of metals (Atz and Pozebon, based on the available literature we have created ranges of
2009; Al-Qutob et al., 2013). The important issue raised by many metal concentrations in colour cosmetics. These concentrations
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 Table 1. Concentrations of heavy metals detected in colour cosmetics (mg kg-1) a

Type of product Pb Cd Ni As Hg Cr Fe Cu Co References

Metals in cosmetics

Eye shadows 0 – 202.06 0 – 55.59 0.02 – 359.44 0 – 11.1 0 – 0.74 0 – 11,900 2.2 – 300,000 0 – 99,000 0 – 258.33 (Sainio et al., 2000; Kang et al., 2006;
Lee et al., 2008; Al-Saleh et al., 2009;

J. Appl. Toxicol. 2015; 35: 551–572

Atz and Pozebon, 2009; Omolaoye
et al., 2010; Al-Dayel et al., 2011;
Contado and Pagnoni, 2012; Volpe
et al., 2012; Al-Qutob et al., 2013;
Mousavi et al., 2013; Nourmoradi
et al., 2013; Umar and Caleb, 2013;
Faruruwa and Bartholomew, 2014)
Eye liners/Eye 0.31 – 213.6 0.3 – 3.05 0.69 – 21.5 - - 0.15 – 64.3 17 – 64,743.1 - - (Nnorm et al., 2005; Lee et al., 2008;
pencils Umar and Caleb, 2013;
Faruruwa and Bartholomew, 2014)
Mascara 0 – 14 0 – 1.5 5.07 – 46.8 - 0 – 0.01 0.37 – 17.1 52.5 – 106,745.5 0.14 – 1.04 1.73 – 20.4 (Lee et al., 2008; Al-Dayel et al., 2011;
Faruruwa and Bartholomew, 2014)
Colour lip 0 – 3,760 0 – 60.2 0 – 22.8 - 0 – 0.01 0 – 93.3 0 – 6,839.7 0 – 118.6 0 – 1.77 (Nnorm et al., 2005; Lee et al., 2008;
cosmetics Al-Saleh et al., 2009; Atz and Pozebon,
2009; Gondal et al., 2010; Perkin Elmer,
2012; Sah, 2012; Al-Qutob et al., 2013;
Gunduz and Akman, 2013; Khalid et al.,
2013; Liu et al., 2013; Nourmoradi et al.,
2013; Orisakwe and Otaraku, 2013;

Copyright © 2015 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.

Piccini et al., 2013; Soares and Nascentes,
2013; Ullah et al., 2013; Umar and Caleb,
2013; Faruruwa and Bartholomew, 2014)
Foundation 0 – 61.86 0.18 – 29.05 0.72 – 214.54 - - 0.26 – 15.75 0 – 1067 0 – 9.69 0 – 13.02 (Nnorm et al., 2005; Lee et al., 2008;
creams, Hwang et al., 2009;
make-up bases, Al-Qutob et al., 2013; Orisakwe and
powders Otaraku, 2013; Ullah
et al., 2013; Umar and Caleb, 2013)
Blushers 0.2 – 31.7 0.1 – 0.3 4.1 – 13.1 - - 2.77 – 15.09 15,103.7 – 53,084.1 - - (Faruruwa and Bartholomew, 2014)
Nail polish 0.2 – 6.03 0.01 – 1.68 1.89 - 0 – 0.19 0 – 10.9 0 – 17,900 - 0 – 0.58 (Favaro et al., 2005; Perkin Elmer, 2012;
Umar and Caleb, 2013)
a
Detailed data on the concentrations of heavy metals detected in colour cosmetics produced in various countries are presented as the Supplementary Tables S1–S4.
Pb, lead; Cd, cadmium; Ni, nickel; As, arsenic; Hg, mercury; Cr, chromium; Fe, iron; Cu, copper; Co, cobalt.

wileyonlinelibrary.com/journal/jat
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 S. Borowska and M. M. Brzóska

range from 0 (undetectable values) up to 300.0 g Fe kg-1, 99.0 g present in Europe was in most cases below 1 mg kg-1, and the
Cu kg-1, 11.9 g Cr kg-1, 3.76 g Pb kg-1, 359.44 mg Ni kg-1, 258.33 maximum concentration of this metal observed in lipsticks and
mg Co kg-1, 60.2 mg Cd kg-1, 0.74 mg Hg kg-1 and 50.0 g Al kg-1 lip glosses reached 3.75 mg kg-1 and 2.12 mg kg-1, respectively
(Tables 1 and 2; Supplementary Tables S1–S4). Brandão et al. (Piccini et al., 2013). In 2007, the FDA detected Pb in lipsticks rang-
(2012) have noted the following concentrations of Pb in cosmetics ing from 0.09 to 3.06 mg kg-1 (FDA, 2014) and in 2010 Frontier
commonly used in South Africa: 7.4 ± 1.3 mg kg-1 in concealer, Global Sciences under contract with the US FDA detected Pb in
29 ± 9.2 mg kg-1 in lip liner, 17.3 ± 2.9 mg kg-1 in oil absorbent this kind of products in more than twice higher concentrations
powder, 15.8 ± 0.2 mg kg-1 in mascara, 4.7 – 11.7 mg kg-1 in lip (0 – 7.19 mg kg-1; FDA, 2014).
glosses, 0 – 73.1 mg kg-1 in lipsticks and 7.8 – 32.9 mg kg-1 in Recently, a growing popularity of toy make-up has been ob-
foundations. Adepoju-Bello et al. (2012) have found the follow- served and toy cosmetics is widely available. However, these prod-
ing toxic metals while evaluating 50 various cosmetics from ucts can be potentially dangerous for children, including especially
Nigeria, including lipsticks, lip glosses and skin-whitening atopic children. The children’s skin is particularly thin, so it is very
creams: As (0.006 – 0.31 mg kg-1), Cd (0.023 – 0.203 mg kg-1), susceptible to external harmful factors (Brandão and Gontijo,
Pb (0.017 – 0.9 mg kg-1), Hg (0.09 – 0.207 mg kg-1) and Ni 2012). Toy cosmetics are sold in kits such as eye shadows and lip-
(0.032 – 0.105 mg kg-1). However, they have not provided sticks. Each product in the kit is a cosmetic product and should be
any data on concentrations of these metals in particular compliant to the cosmetic directive. These products are often used
categories of these products. Among cosmetics such as face on children’s faces and usually stay on as long as real cosmetics. Ni,
cleansers, lip polishes, nail paints, powders, styling gels and Cr and Co were detected in these products and these metals were
aloe facial scrubs from Nigeria Pb (0 – 0.17 mg kg-1), Cd present in the highest concentrations in toy eye shadows (Table 3;
(0.01 – 0.09 mg kg-1), Ni (0 – 0.08 mg kg-1), Cr (0.01 – 0.47 Corazza et al., 2009; Contado and Pagnoni, 2012).
mg kg-1), Fe (0.52 – 6.65 mg kg-1) and Cu (0.04 – 1.03 mg kg-1) To sum up, metals were detected in different concentrations in
were detected (Odukudu et al., 2014). various types of colour cosmetics (Tables 1–3). Pb was detected in
The highest concentration of Pb was found in shimmering and the highest concentrations in lipsticks, reaching up to 3,76 g kg-1 in
brown colours, whereas the lowest concentration was found in a lipstick from Saudi Arabia (Table 1; Al-Saleh et al., 2009), whereas
red colours of lipsticks from Saudi Arabia (Al-Saleh et al., 2009). Ni, Cr, Fe, Cu, Co and Al were detected in high concentrations in
Among the lipsticks from Pakistan, the highest concentrations of eye shadows (Tables 1 and 2). In the eye shadows from Nigeria,
heavy metals were found in dark brown and shocking pink colours Ni was found in a concentration as high as 359.44 mg kg-1
(Khalid et al., 2013). On the Brazilian market, the highest concentra- (Omolaoye et al., 2010). Ni and Cr were also present in high con-
tions of Pb were found in red lipsticks (Soares and Nascentes, centrations in toy make-up products (Corazza et al., 2009; Contado
2013). Lip glosses produced in the EU contained less Pb than lip- and Pagnoni, 2012). Based on the available literature data, the con-
sticks present on the European market, and this can be explained centrations of metals in colour cosmetics can be set in the follow-
by a lower content of pigments in lip glosses (Piccini et al., 2013). ing order: Fe > Cu > Al > Cr > Pb > Ni > Co > Cd > As > Hg. As
The Pb concentration in most of the lip colour products currently can be seen from the presented data (Tables 1–3; Supplementary

Table 2. Concentrations of aluminium (Al) detected in various types of cosmetics (mg kg-1)

Type of product Origin Concentration of Al References

Eye shadows Saudi Arabia 20,000 – 50,000 (Al-Dayel et al., 2011)
Palestine 62.17 (Al-Qutob et al., 2013)
Mascara Saudi Arabia 117 – 20,000 (Al-Dayel et al., 2011)
Lipsticks Palestine 10.98 – 694.5 (Al-Qutob et al., 2013)
USA 14.2 – 27,032 (Liu et al., 2013)
Lip glosses USA 0.415 – 10,536 (Liu et al., 2013)
Foundation creams, compact powders Palestine 33.26 – 18,661.5 (Al-Qutob et al., 2013)
Creams (anti-freckles, moisturizing) Palestine 15.31 – 62.17 (Al-Qutob et al., 2013)
Cosmetic emulsions Africa 0 – 0.861 (Oyedeji et al., 2011)
Europe 0 – 0.958 (Oyedeji et al., 2011)
USA 0 – 1.002 (Oyedeji et al., 2011)
Commercial muds Dead Sea 4,500 – 7,900 (Abdel-Fattah and Pingitore, 2009)
Cosmetics with muds from Dead Sea
Body lotions 0–6 (Abdel-Fattah and Pingitore, 2009)
Hand creams 5 – 102 (Abdel-Fattah and Pingitore, 2009)
Facial masks 5,400 – 8,500 (Abdel-Fattah and Pingitore, 2009)
Soaps 170 – 650 (Abdel-Fattah and Pingitore, 2009)
Shaving soap 98 (Abdel-Fattah and Pingitore, 2009)
Shampoo 6 (Abdel-Fattah and Pingitore, 2009)
Moisturizer 2 (Abdel-Fattah and Pingitore, 2009)
Henna Palestine 142.1 (Al-Qutob et al., 2013)
Kohl Palestine 56.75 – 1,009.3 (Al-Qutob et al., 2013)
556

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Metals in cosmetics

Table 3. Concentrations of metals detected in toy make up (mg kg-1)

Type of product Ni Cr Co References

Eye shadows 1.4 – 320 1.61 – 3,620 0.47 – 12.5 (Corazza et al., 2009; Contado and Pagnoni, 2012)
Lipsticks 0 – 2.35 1.1 – 5.05 - (Corazza et al., 2009)
Lip gloss - 0 – 5.48 - (Corazza et al., 2009)
Lip balm - 0.6 - (Corazza et al., 2009)
Lip pencil 1.41 1.69 0.48 (Corazza et al., 2009)
Ni, nickel; Cr, chromium; Co, cobalt.

Tables S1–S4), metals, whose usage is prohibited or restricted by > Al (0 – 62.17 mg kg-1) > Ni (0 – 29.39 mg kg-1) > Cd (0 –
the EU law (OJEU, 2009) or other regulations (FDA, 2009, 2014; 28.73 mg kg-1) > Cu (0 – 18.95 mg kg-1) > Cr (0 – 6.29 mg kg-1).
HC-SC, 2012), were detected in excessive concentrations in com- Detailed data on the concentrations of metals detected in the
mercially available colour cosmetics. Detailed data on the concen- face and body care products produced in various countries are
trations of heavy metals detected in colour cosmetics produced in presented in Table 2 and as the Supplementary Material (Supple-
various countries are presented as the Supplementary Material mentary Tables S5 and S6).
(Supplementary Tables S1–S4).

Metals in Hair Cosmetics

Metals in Face and Body Care Products Numerous metals have been detected in various types of hair cos-
Heavy metals and Al have also been detected in various kinds of metics, including conditioners, pomades, dyes and shampoos
face and body care products (Tables 2 and 4; Supplementary (Tables 2 and 5; Supplementary Tables S7A and S7B; Li et al.,
Tables S5 and S6). While most of the heavy metals are probably 2010). Detailed data on the concentrations of heavy metals de-
present in these cosmetics by accident, it is possible that Hg is tected in hair cosmetics produced in various countries are pre-
sometimes used intentionally because of its ability to lighten the sented in the Supplementary Material (Supplementary
skin. The heavy metal detected in the highest concentrations in Tables S7A and S7B). The presence of Pb and its compounds in hair
these products, especially in skin-lightening preparations, was def- cosmetics, including hair dyes, is prohibited in Europe (OJEU,
initely Hg (Table 4; Weldon et al., 2000; Soo et al., 2003; Tang et al., 2009), but FDA accepts lead acetate in cosmetics that colour the
2006, 2013; Held and Bayerl, 2008; Özkaya et al., 2009; Li et al., 2010; hair up to a maximum content of 0.6% (w/v) Pb in the final product
Benz et al., 2011; Chakera et al., 2011; CDC, 2012b; Dickenson et al., (FDA, 2009). Lead acetate in hair dyes is accepted by the FDA ow-
2013). Many face creams used for freckle removal and skin whiten- ing to its black colour and the ability of changing the colour of hair
ing, for acne and the prevention and elimination of wrinkles con- into black. Apart from lead acetate other heavy metal compounds
tain Hg (Table 4; Supplementary Table S5). Abdulla et al. (2013) are present in hair cosmetics only by accident.
have revealed that in the United Arab Emirates heavy metals were During hair colouring the disulphide bonds of keratin are oxi-
present in all types of cosmetics, including face and body care dized, forming binding sites for metal ions (Smart et al., 2009). It
products (face masks, powders, soaps, perfumes, foam baths, is important to underline that hair bind metals more easily when
creams for shaving, deodorants, Table 4 sunbathing products, their structure is damaged. Higher concentrations of Cd, Ni, Sb,
make-up products, face creams, hair bleaches, shampoos, lacquers Fe, Cu and manganese (Mn) have been reported in dyed hair in
and brilliantine) at the mean concentrations of 0.1027 ± 0.5 mg Cd comparison with non-dyed hair (Smart et al., 2009; Wei et al., 2008).
kg-1, 1.211 ± 5.475 mg Cr kg-1, 1.2764 ± 7.9481 mg Pb kg-1 and According to the available literature data the order of the con-
0.107 ± 0.3273 mg As kg-1. centrations of metals in hair cosmetics is as follows: Fe (0 – 421
In addition, Al may be present in antiperspirants owing to the in- mg kg-1) > Ni (0 – 72 mg kg-1) > Co (0 – 25.35 mg kg-1) > Pb (0
tentional use of its compounds for blocking the sweat ducts. This – 17.7 mg kg-1) > Cu (0 – 12.8 mg kg-1) > Cr (0 – 11 mg kg-1) >
action of Al compounds consists of the formation of a physical Cd (0 – 6.95 mg kg-1). Pb and Ni were detected in high concentra-
plug composed of a combination of metal-proteoglycan precipi- tions mainly in hair pomades, whereas Cd was in hair creams
tate and damaged cells at the top of the duct resulting in the pre- (Table 5; Supplementary Tables S7A and S7B). Apart from the
vention from the escape of sweat onto the body surface (Laden above-mentioned metals, As and Al were also present in the sham-
and Felger, 1988). Mesurolle et al. (2014) have found that 43 anti- poo with muds from the Dead Sea from Jordan in concentrations of
perspirants commercially available on the Canadian market 0.2 and 6.0 mg kg-1, respectively (Abdel-Fattah and Pingitore, 2009).
contained aluminium-based complexes in concentrations ranging
from 16% to 25%. Similarly, Guillard et al. (2004) have noted that al- Metals in Traditional Cosmetics and Cosmetics
uminium chlorohydrate content in an antiperspirant cream reached Containing Herbs and Minerals Considered as
20%. Sappino et al. (2012) have determined the following concen-
trations of aluminium chlorohydrate in three antiperspirants investi-
Natural Products
gated by them: 417.31, 483.81 and 653.48 mM. Unfortunately, all the Herbal cosmetics have been known and used worldwide since an-
authors (Guillard et al., 2004; Sappino et al., 2012; Mesurolle et al., cient times; however, in the last years, there has been a renewed
2014) did not mention about the cosmetic brands of these products. interest in these products. This resulted from the growing belief
Based on the available literature data, the order of metals that herbal products are safe whereas chemical-based ones may
concentration in the face and body care products is as follows: be harmful (Sukender et al., 2012). Herbal cosmetics are valuable
Pb (0 – 790 g kg-1) > Hg (0 – 65.133 g kg-1) > Fe (0 – 2.469 g kg-1) products consisting of plants and their bioactive extracts, which
557

J. Appl. Toxicol. 2015; 35: 551–572 Copyright © 2015 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. wileyonlinelibrary.com/journal/jat
 558

Table 4. Concentrations of heavy metals detected in face and body care products (mg kg-1) a

Type of product Pb Cd Ni Hg Cr Fe Cu Co References

Creams (e.g. skin-whitening,

wileyonlinelibrary.com/journal/jat
0 – 41,600 0 – 5.05 0.01 – 18.45 0 – 65,133 0 – 4.3 0.53 – 2,469 0 – 18.95 0.22 – 0.25 (Chan et al., 2001; Sin and
skin-lightening, anti-freckles, Tsang, 2003; Ayenimo et al.,
anti-wrinkes, for acne, 2010a, 2010b; Chauhan
medicated) et al., 2010; McKelvey et al.,
2011; Onwordi et al., 2011;
Perkin Elmer, 2012; Adawe
and Oberg, 2013; Al-Qutob
et al., 2013; Cristuado et al.,
2013; Ullah et al., 2013;
Umar and Caleb, 2013)
Germicidal creams, - - - 204 – 4,770 - - - - (McKelvey et al., 2011)
soaps and balms
Body creams/lotions/milks 0 – 9.2 0 – 16.67 0 – 6.56 - 0.02 – 0.4 - 0 – 0.05 - (Bocca et al., 2007; Cristuado
et al., 2013; Orisakwe and
Otaraku, 2013; Umar and
Caleb, 2013)
Shaving creams 0.66 – 0.72 0.01 – 0.02 - - - - - - (Chauhan et al., 2010)
Eye cleansers, 8.06 – 213.6 0.3 – 3.88 - - 0.28 - - - (Nnorm et al., 2006;
cleansing oil Hwang et al., 2009)
Emulsions - - - - - (Oyedeji et al., 2011)

Copyright © 2015 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.

0 – 0.39 0 – 0.5 0.05 – 1.83
Foam bath products, 3.82 – 4.63 0.03 – 0.04 0.03 – 0.29 - 0.02 – 0.2 - - - (Ciaralli et al., 1996; Chauhan
bathing soaps et al., 2010)
Soaps (e.g. toilet, 0 – 5.8 0 – 12.85 0 – 5.76 0 – 7.4 0.01 – 0.72 0.45 – 1.58 - 0.1 – 0.87 (Harada et al., 2001; Ayenimo
medicated, et al., 2010a, 2010b; Cristuado
skin-lightening) et al., 2013; Orisakwe and Otaraku,
2013; Umar and Caleb, 2013)
Toothpastes, mouth-cleansing 0 – 8.89 0 – 28.73 0.01 – 29.39 0.01 – 1.11 0.01 – 6.29 0.51 – 0.7 0.1 – 0.31 - (Umar and Caleb, 2013; Odukudu
powder et al., 2014)
Hand and cuticle cream 0.39 6.83 1.38 - 0.25 - - - (Umar and Caleb, 2013)
a
Detailed data on the concentrations of heavy metals detected in face and body care products produced in various countries are presented as the Supplementary Tables S5–S6.
Pb, lead; Cd, cadmium; Ni, nickel; Hg, mercury; Cr, chromium; Fe, iron; Cu, copper; Co, cobalt.

J. Appl. Toxicol. 2015; 35: 551–572

S. Borowska and M. M. Brzóska
Metals in cosmetics

enrich the skin with nutrients (Sukender et al., 2012). However, not

(Umar and Caleb, 2013)

(Umar and Caleb, 2013;

Umar and Caleb, 2013)

(Ayenimo et al., 2010a,
Odukudu et al., 2014)

(Amartey et al., 2011)

every product containing herbs and minerals is a natural product.

Chauhan et al., 2010;

(Gondal et al., 2013;

Gondal et al., 2014)
These items often contain only trace quantities of plant extracts

(Abdel-Fattah and
2010b; Umar and
References

Ullah et al., 2013;

Pingitore, 2009;
and high quantities of synthetic ingredients, preservatives and

Caleb, 2013)
toxic metals. Concentrations of metals in herbal cosmetics depend

Detailed data on the concentrations of heavy metals detected in hair products produced in various countries are presented as the Supplementary Tables S7A and S7B.
on the content of these unintended impurities in herbs. Herbal ma-
terials that are used in cosmetics production should come from
certificated ecological cultures or controlled wild crops. However,
according to the EU Regulation No 1223/2009, small quantities of
non-intended prohibited metals can be present in final cosmetic
products as technically unavoidable contaminations (OJEU,

10.67 – 25.35
2009). According to the WHO, the maximum allowed amounts of
0.18 – 0.37

Pb and Cd in dried plant materials used in cosmetology are 10

Co

- and 0.3 mg kg-1, respectively (WHO, 2007). The Cosmetic Ingredi-

-
-
-

ent Review Expert Panel established by FDA in the USA advised

the cosmetic industry that the contamination of any plant-derived
ingredient should be limited to not more than 3 mg kg-1 for As, 5
mg kg-1 for Pb and 20 mg kg-1 for other heavy metals (Cosmetic
0.7 – 12.8
0.52 – 0.81

0.07 – 2.39
0.57 – 0.67

Ingredient Review Expert Panel, 2007). The same Committee al-

lows for the presence of toxic metals in cottonseed oil used for
Cu

the production of colour cosmetics and face and body care prod-
ucts in the following concentrations: As ≤ 3 mg kg-1, Pb ≤ 0.1 mg
kg-1 and Hg ≤ 1 mg kg-1 [Final Report on the Safety Assessment
of Hydrogenated Cottonseed Oil, Cottonseed (Gossypium) Oil, Cot-
tonseed Acid, Cottonseed Glyceride, and Hydrogenated Cotton-
27.97 – 154.2
0.76 – 1.03

0.51 – 2.15

81.6 – 421

seed Glyceride, 2001].

Apart from pesticides and fertilizers, toxic metals are the main
Fe

contaminants of herbal and mineral raw materials, but in the

available literature there are no data concerning chemical con-
tamination of the herbs used for cosmetic reasons. However,
there are a lot of data on pollution of herbs by heavy metals
in general, including the plants used in medicine (Table 6). Nu-
0.01 – 0.49
0.06 – 0.6

0.34 – 1.5

5 – 11

merous data show that even plants growing under controlled

Cr

conditions in unpolluted areas contain some amounts of toxic

-
-

heavy metals, including particularly Pb and Cd (Table 6; Harcz

Pb, lead; Cd, cadmium; Ni, nickel; Cr, chromium; Fe, iron; Cu, copper; Co, cobalt.
Table 5. Concentrations of heavy metals detected in hair products (mg kg-1) a

et al., 2007). Thus, toxic metals are always present in commer-

cially available herbs and herbal products including cosmetics.
Depending on the place of origin, the concentrations of metals
0.02 – 0.83

0.01 – 2.03

0.06 – 3.11

1.3 – 72

in herbal plants vary in a wide range of values from very low,

1.84
Ni

sometimes almost undetectable, to excessively high values.

The available data show that excessive concentrations of Cd
(up to 0.63 mg kg-1) and Pb (up to 4,249.6 mg kg-1), in compar-
ison with the limits set up by WHO (0.3 mg Cd kg-1 and 10 mg
Pb kg-1), were detected in raw plant materials originating from
0.31 – 2.52

0.28 – 6.95

0.03 – 4.17

4.2 – 6.8

various countries, including Germany, Turkey, Poland and Bul-

3.6
Cd

garia (Başgel and Erdemoğlu, 2006; Gasser et al., 2009;

-

Tokalioğlu, 2012). We found data indicating that the concentra-

tions of heavy metals in the nettle (Urtica dioica), chamomile
(Chamomilla recutita) and horsetail (Equisetum arvense) belong-
ing to the group of plants most often used in herbal cosmetics
0.96 – 3.32
0 – 0.45

0 – 0.49

1.3 – 17.7

are sometimes too high (Table 6). Unlike heavy metals, there is a
0.18
Pb

lack of data on Al content in herbs, but the presence of this

-

metal in herbal plants, and therefore in herbal cosmetics, is very

possible due to the growing problem of the increasing Al con-
centration in plants. This is connected with the fact that spar-
ingly soluble, poorly absorbed minerals containing Al present
Hair conditioner
Type of product

in large amounts in the Earth crust become better soluble ow-

Hair pomades
Hair relaxers

ing to soil acidification (caused by acid rains) and for this

Hair creams

Shampoos

Hair dyes

reason Al is easier absorbed from soil by plants (Minocha and

Minocha, 2005). Thus, more interest Table 6 should be focused
on the herbs used in cosmetology and herbal cosmetics con-
a

tamination with Al.

559

J. Appl. Toxicol. 2015; 35: 551–572 Copyright © 2015 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. wileyonlinelibrary.com/journal/jat
 S. Borowska and M. M. Brzóska

Table 6. Concentrations of heavy metals in raw plant material from Europe which can be used for pharmaceutical and cosmetic rea-
sons (mg kg-1)

Pb Cd Ni As Hg References
Poland
Nettle 1.1 – 7.23 0.06 – 0.27 1.49 0.09 – 0.24 (Baranowska et al., 2002;
Fijałek et al., 2003)
Chamomile 8.08 0.3 1.17 - - (Baranowska et al., 2002)
Turkey
Nettle 1.59 – 4.8 0.06 3.6 – 13.1 - (Başgel and Erdemoğlu, 2006;
- Tokalioğlu, 2012)
Chamomile 0.06 – 0.72 0.44 1.8 – 3.68 - (Başgel and Erdemoğlu, 2006;
- Tokalioğlu, 2012)
Horsetail - - 4.73 - (Tokalioğlu, 2012)
-
Germany
Nettle 0 – 4,249.6 0 – 0.2 - - 0 – 0.17 (Gasser et al., 2009)
Horsetail 0 – 21.45 0 – 0.63 - - 0 – 0.1 (Gasser et al., 2009)
Bulgaria
Chamomile 0.29 – 1.62 0.18 – 0.26 - 0.08 – 0.12 - (Arpadjan et al., 2008)
Cr Fe Cu Co
Poland
Nettle - 56.2 - 266 7.26 - 13 - (Fijałek et al., 2003)
Turkey
Nettle 1.2 – 8.71 810 – 3,456 5.6 – 15.2 0.48 – 2.35 (Başgel and Erdemoğlu, 2006;
Tokalioğlu, 2012)
Chamomile 1.22 – 3.48 502.7 - 716 8.34 – 13.9 0.32 – 0.44 (Başgel and Erdemoğlu, 2006;
Tokalioğlu, 2012)
Horsetail 1.02 804 8.59 0.43 (Tokalioğlu, 2012)
Pb, lead; Cd, cadmium; Ni, nickel; As, arsenic; Hg, mercury; Cr, chromium; Fe, iron; Cu, copper; Co, cobalt.

Heavy metals, such as Cd, Pb, Ni, As, Hg, Cr, Fe, Cu and Co were other seas (e.g. Adriatic Sea), cosmetic clays (Tateo et al., 2009; Otto
also detected in numerous other raw materials which can be used and Haydel, 2013) and talcum used especially in powders (Tables 2
for the production of cosmetics considered as natural products, for and 9; Supplementary Tables S8A, S8B and S9). These raw materials
example in honey (Table 7; Roman, 2003; Borawska et al., 2012), contain toxic metals in concentrations corresponding to their con-
argan oil (Mohammed et al., 2013), and olive oil (Brkljača et al., centrations in the Earth’s upper crust. Toxic metals bound with the
2013) as well as in citrus essential oils (lemon, mandarin, bergamot, surface of natural clays can be exchanged with ions present in the
and sweet orange oils; Table 8) often used as natural ingredients of skin and can be absorbed through the skin (Tateo et al., 2009; Otto
cosmetics and as aromatizing agents. Another raw materials con- and Haydel, 2013). In cosmetic clays from Nigeria such as calabash
taining metals and used in the production of cosmetics are Dead stone (a mixture of aluminium silicate hydroxide, seashells, clay
Sea muds used as an ingredient in body lotions, hand creams, fa- mud, sand, wood ash and salt) and black antimony, metals such
cial masks, soaps and shampoos as well as in healing muds from as Pb, Cr, and Cd were detected (Table 9; Supplementary

Table 7. Concentrations of heavy metals detected in honey (which is one of often ingredients of natural cosmetics; mg kg-1)

Origin Pb Cd Ni As Hg References
Croatia 0.01 – 0.84 0 – 0.2 - 0 – 0.1 0 – 0.31 (Bilandžić et al., 2001)
Greece - 0.08 – 0.22 - - - (Ioannidou et al., 2005)
Italy 0.1 – 1.53 0.01 – 0.27 - - - (Sanna et al., 2000)
Spain 0 – 0.12 0 – 0.002 - - - (Muñoz and Palmero, 2006)
Turkey 0 – 0.06 - 0 – 0.13 - - (Silici et al., 2008)
Cr Fe Cu Co
Croatia - - 0.04 – 41.27 - (Bilandžić et al., 2001)
Greece - - 0 – 0.48 0.01 – 0.09 (Ioannidou et al., 2005)
Italy - - 0.19 – 2.98 - (Sanna et al., 2000)
Turkey 0 – 0.01 1.12 – 12.9 0.01 – 0.04 0 – 0.03 (Silici et al., 2008)
Pb, lead; Cd, cadmium; Ni, nickel; As, arsenic; Hg, mercury; Cr, chromium; Fe, iron; Cu, copper; Co, cobalt.
560

wileyonlinelibrary.com/journal/jat Copyright © 2015 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. J. Appl. Toxicol. 2015; 35: 551–572
Metals in cosmetics

Table 8. Mean concentrations of cadmium (Cd), lead (Pb) and et al., 2011). Kohl is an ointment prepared by burning vegetable
copper (Cu) determined in methanol extracts of citrus essential fat and adding charcoal to the residue or a powder made from
oils (mg kg-1) according to Pera et al. (2003) lead sulphide and ingredients added such as carbon, herbs,
plant juices and vegetable ashes (Jallad and Espada-Jallad,
Citrus essential oil kind Cd Pb Cu 2008; Amry et al., 2011). Medicinally, kohl is used to stop bleed-
ing and after circumcision for hygienic purposes (Al Mahroos
Lemon 0.002 0.10 0.02 and Faap, 1993; Al-Ashban et al., 2004). Mothers apply kohl to
their children to protect them from the ’evil eye‘ (Hardy et al.,
Mandarin 0.002 0.17 0.27 2004; Hardy et al., 2006). Sometimes manufacturers of kohl give
false information on the labels about many benefits connected
Sweet orange 0.008 0.08 0.07 with their product, e.g. that it is helpful in the treatment of all kinds
of eye trouble (e.g. sore eyes, tears, reddishness, eye dirt and burn-
Bergamot 0.02 0.08 0.36 ing eyes); however, none of the ingredients present in samples of
kohl have these properties (Hardy et al., 2006). The mean concen-
trations of toxic metals in Nigerian local kohl were the following:
Tables S8A and S9). The mean concentrations of Pb and Cr in cal- 277,300 mg Pb kg-1, 2,256 mg Ni kg-1, 810 mg As kg-1, whereas
abash stone reached 5.13 ± 9.08 and 7.69 ± 4.41 mg kg-1 respec- in kohl imported to Nigeria they reached 180,900 mg Pb kg-1,
tively, whereas the Cd concentration was below the limit of 1,140 mg Ni kg-1 (1970–2690 mg Ni kg-1), 1630 mg As kg-1 and
detection. The concentrations of these metals in black antimony 7460 mg Cr kg-1 (3450–9270 mg Cr kg-1; Zakari et al., 2014). The
were 171.14 ± 5.85 mg Pb kg-1, 5.75 ± 3.33 mg Cr kg-1 and 0.53 mean Pb concentration in the imported kohl samples available
± 4.19 mg Cd kg-1 (Popoola et al., 2013). Another natural raw ma- on the Nigerian market reached 178,366 ± 947 mg kg-1 and one-
terial used for cosmetics production, especially shimmering third out of the 15 evaluated samples contained this metal in the
lipsticks, which may contain heavy metals (mainly Pb), is Mica concentration far beyond the recommended limit (20 mg kg-1),
(Al-Saleh et al., 2009) being a group of natural silicate minerals while they were labelled as containing Pb below this limit. It is
(Al-Saleh et al., 2009; Volpe et al., 2012; Piccini et al., 2013). important to underline that Pb concentrations declared by the
Heavy metals were detected in excessive concentrations in producers on kohl labels were not in conformity with the actual
herbal cosmetic formulations of preparations sold on the Indian content of this metal (Zakari et al., 2014). The Pb concentration in
market and in herbal (including antiseptic) soaps from Nigeria kohl from Saudi Arabia was 141.2 ± 2.8 mg kg-1 (Haider et al.,
(Tables 9; Obi et al., 2006). It was found that alkalis used for the pro- 2012) and in that from Bangladesh it ranged from 89.8 ± 3.5 mg
duction of cheap soaps in Nigeria contain 0.02 mg Pb kg-1, 0.003 kg-1 to 146.1 ± 4.8 mg kg-1 (Haider et al., 2012).
mg Cd kg-1, 0.05–0.06 mg Ni kg-1, 0.02–0.04 mg Cr kg-1,
1.67–2.45 mg Cu kg-1 and 99.18–241.63 mg Fe kg-1 (Oluremi
Olabanji et al., 2012).
Metal Nanoparticles in Cosmetic Products
Henna is another traditional product that has been used over In recent years, a growing popularity of nanocosmetics has been
the centuries for medical and cosmetic purposes in many parts observed. These products contain one or more nanoscale ingredi-
of the world. Henna dye is obtained from the dried leaves of ents. The nanoscale version of ingredients provides better UV pro-
the Lawsonia inermis or Cassia obovata, which are powdered tection, deeper skin penetration, higher stability of active
and mixed with oil and water (Kang and Lee, 2006; Jallad and ingredients and long-lasting effects as well as increases the colour
Espada-Jallad, 2008). It is applied to the hair for the purpose of and quality of finished products (Raj et al., 2012). In addition, some
hair dying and giving it a healthy and beautiful look (Jallad nanoparticles (calcium carbonate or calcium phosphate) are capa-
and Espada-Jallad, 2008). This product is a substitute for chemical ble of preventing allergenic metal ions penetration into the skin
hair dyes (Kang and Lee, 2006). Henna is also applied as tempo- (by capturing them by means of cation exchange and remaining
rary paint-on-tattoos on hands and feet as an alternative to per- on the surface of the skin, allowing them to be removed simply
manent tattoos (Kang and Lee, 2006; Jallad and Espada-Jallad, by washing with water; Vemula et al., 2011).
2008). Henna preparations are fortified with mineral products Many different types of nanomaterials, including nanometals,
and various herbs in order to give it a stronger colour and to are used in cosmetics. The usage of nanometals in cosmetics has
shorten the time of application (Kang and Lee, 2006; Jallad and many advantages. Nanoparticles of Ag and Au have antibacterial
Espada-Jallad, 2008). These mineral products and herbs are properties and thus they are useful in face and body care products,
rich in Pb (Jallad and Espada-Jallad, 2008). The highest concen- e.g. toothpastes or soaps (Raj et al., 2012; Ramakritinan et al., 2013).
trations of this metal are reaching values as high as 65.98 mg Cu species-coated silica nanoparticles are used in some deodor-
kg-1 were found in henna from the United Arab Emirates (Table 9; ants because this element placement on nanoparticles increases
Jallad and Espada-Jallad, 2008). Ni and Co present in henna mix- the surface of Cu having antibacterial properties and neutralizing
tures provoke sensitization, which plays a role in the occurrence odours (Singh et al., 2010). Nanoparticles of aluminium oxide are
of allergic contact dermatitis (Kang and Lee, 2006), whereas Pb is used in mineral foundations and concealers owing to their proper-
absorbed through the skin ( Jallad and Espada-Jallad, 2008). A ties of diffusing light and disguising wrinkles (FOE-Australia, 2014).
prolonged period of henna tattoos remaining on the skin facili- Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide in the size range of 20 nm are
tates this action. Apart from heavy metals (Table 9), Al has also used in sunscreen products as efficient UV filters (Raj et al., 2012).
been detected in henna (Table 2). Popov et al. (2005) have suggested that titanium dioxide nanopar-
The problem of natural cosmetics contamination with toxic ticles are more effective during the exposure to UVB (310 nm) than
metals also refers to kohl (surma) being one of the traditional prod- to UVA (400 nm) because, as they have revealed, in the case of ex-
ucts used in Asia and Africa as eyeliner to darken the eyelids and as posure to UVB, nanoparticles of titanium dioxide with diameters
mascara for the eyelashes (Tables 2 and 9; Hardy et al., 2006; Amry 56–62 nm effectively decreased the transmission of UVB through
561

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 562

Table 9. Concentrations of heavy metals detected in raw materials, natural cosmetics and cosmetics considered as natural products (mg kg-1) a

wileyonlinelibrary.com/journal/jat
Type of product Pb Cd Ni As Hg Cr Fe Cu Co References
Muds 2.5 – 4.5 0.14 – 2.6 13 – 15 1.3 – 1.7 - 23 – 30 - 4 – 63 2.3 – 4.5 (Vreca and Dolenec,
2005; Abdel-Fattah
and Pingitore, 2009)
Cosmetics with 0.01 – 6.2 0 – 1.7 0.01 – 17 0.03 – 1.8 - 0.81 - 24 - 0 – 10 0–4 (Abdel-Fattah and
muds from Pingitore, 2009)
Dead Sea
Cosmetic clays 3.74 – 171.14 0.1 – 0.56 - - - 0.39 – 7.69 - - - (Popoola et al., 2013)
Talcum 0.24 – 20 0.01 – 2.1 - - - 0.2 – 30 - - 0.7 (Chauhan et al., 2010;
Nnorm, 2011; Gondal
et al., 2012)
Henna 2 – 65.98 - 2.5 – 83 - - - - 7.75 2.96 – 3.54 (Tosti et al., 1991;
Kang and Lee, 2006;
Jallad and Espada-Jallad,
2008)
Kohl 3.2 – 1,219.4 0.94 1.01 - - 0.08 – 9 1,272 302.2 0.72 (Malakootian et al., 2010;
Gondal et al., 2013; Ullah

Copyright © 2015 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.

et al., 2013)
Black soap 1.42 5.69 5.84 - - 0.9 - - - (Umar and Caleb, 2013)
Various herbal 0 – 54.9 0.62 – 21.42 1.04 – 24.03 0.69 – 3.68 0 – 2.18 0.15 – 2.16 - - - (Nnorm et al., 2006;
cosmetics (soaps, Sukender et al., 2012;
toothpastes, creams) Umar and Caleb, 2013)
a
Detailed data on the concentrations of heavy metals detected in raw materials, natural cosmetics and cosmetics considered as natural products produced in various countries are pre-
sented as the Supplementary Tables S8A, S8B and S9.
Pb, lead; Cd, cadmium; Ni, nickel; As, arsenic; Hg, mercury; Cr, chromium; Fe, iron; Cu, copper; Co, cobalt.

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S. Borowska and M. M. Brzóska
Metals in cosmetics

the skin up to 1%, whereas in the case of exposure to UVA, higher It is important to emphasize that the current knowledge about
diameters of titanium dioxide nanoparticles were necessary to de- the danger connected with the use of nanometals in cosmetics is
crease the transmission of UVA from 50% to 25%. Zinc oxide nano- insufficient. This is related to methodological problems with
particles are effective UV filters in a broader spectrum of radiation, nanometals determination on the one hand and the fact they have
including UVA (Mitchnick et al., 1999). Zinc oxide and titanium di- not been used long enough for evaluation of the long-term effects
oxide from sunscreens were only present in the uppermost layer of exposure to them, on the other hand. Further investigations
of the stratum corneum after 2 h of application so they are should provide more information on whether nanoparticles of
considered to be relatively safe (Filipe et al., 2009). However, metals are really safe for human health and give more advantages
Monteiro-Riviere et al. (2011) have revealed that damage to the than hazards.
skin caused by UVB slightly increased the penetration of titanium
dioxide and zinc oxide nanoparticles through the skin. Ag and zinc
oxide nanoparticles are ingredients of chemically modified clays
Absorption of Metals Through the Skin
because of their microbicidal activity against bacteria, fungi and vi- Metals present in cosmetics may be accumulated in the skin or
ruses present on the skin (Otto and Haydel, 2013). Moreover, it has absorbed by this route (Fig. 3). Elements such as Ni, Co and Cr
been revealed that 70-nm nanoparticles of calcium carbonate and are accumulated in the stratum corneum and may cause allergic
calcium phosphate present in a glycerine emollient used on the contact dermatitis (Larese et al., 2007; Filon et al., 2009), whereas
skin surface can reduce the skin’s exposure to Ni ions (Vemula Hg, Pb, Cd and Al pass through the skin layers to blood vessels
et al., 2011). and are transported into various organs where they are accumu-
Although using metal nanoparticles in cosmetology has many lated and exert toxic effects (Stauber et al., 1994; Lansdown and
advantages, there may be risk factors for human health. Because Sampson, 1996; Palmer et al., 2000; Sun et al., 2002; CDC, 2012b;
of their very small size, nanoparticles can penetrate the skin (partic- Lin et al., 2012). Increased Pb, Cd, Hg and Al concentrations in
ularly if the skin is damaged) and easily gain access to the blood the blood, urine or internal organs noted in individuals in whom
stream and they can be transported to various organs (Raj et al., the use of cosmetic products was the only source of excessive ex-
2012). People may inhale nanoparticles when they use posure to these metals confirm their absorption through the skin
nanomaterial products such as spray versions of sunscreens con- (Warley et al., 1968; Shaltout et al., 1981; Al Mahroos and Faap,
taining nanoparticles of titanium dioxide (Raj et al., 2012). Topically 1993; Weldon et al., 2000; Chan et al., 2001; Soo et al., 2003; Guillard
applied nanoparticles of copper (II) oxide have been reported to in- et al., 2004; CDC, 2005, 2012a, 2012b, 2013a; Tang et al., 2006, 2013;
duce inflammatory cytokine secretion and necrosis in human skin Held and Bayerl, 2008; Özkaya et al., 2009; Al Naama et al., 2010; Li
organ culture (Cohen et al., 2013). In contrast to nanoparticles of et al., 2010; Amry et al., 2011; Benz et al., 2011; Chakera et al., 2011;
copper (II) oxide, nanoparticles of Al probably have no cytotoxic Lin et al., 2012; Dickenson et al., 2013). Although absorption of
activity. Monteiro-Riviere et al. (2010) have reported that exposure these metals by the skin is less effective than by the gastrointesti-
to nanoparticles of Al (50 and 80 nm) in the concentrations of nal tract or inhalation, some amounts of them may enter the body
0.0004–4.0 mg ml-1 for 24 h did not cause cytotoxicity in cultured by this way as a result of the use of cosmetics.
human neonatal epidermal keratinocytes. Hg enters the skin mainly through appendages such as hair fol-
Results of experimental studies conducted in various animal licles and sweat ducts (Guy et al., 1999; Palmer et al., 2000). Part of
models (Balasubramanyam et al., 2009; Prabhakar et al., 2012; Ze
et al., 2014) confirm toxicity of metal nanoparticles used in cosme-
tology and medicine. Prabhakar et al. (2012) have reported that
acute oral treatment with aluminium oxide (Al2O3) nanoparticles
(30 and 40 nm) in a single dose of 500, 1000 and 2000 mg kg-1 in-
duced oxidative stress in the liver, kidneys and brain of rats. The
administration of Al2O3 nanoparticles, in a dose-dependent man-
ner, decreased the concentration of reduced glutathione and the
activities of superoxide dismutase and glutathione reductase,
while increased activities of catalase and glutathione S-transferase,
and malondialdehyde concentration (a biomarker of lipid peroxi-
dation). The changes were different in various organs and
depended not only on the dose, but also on the size of the
nanoparticles. The Al2O3 nanoparticles-induced oxidative stress
in the liver contributed to the development of histopathological
changes in this organ such as dilated central vein and expanded
portal tract (hepatic artery, hepatic portal vein and bile duct).
Balasubramanyam et al. (2009) have revealed that exposure to al-
uminium oxide nanoparticles (30–40 nm, in the concentrations
of 500–2000 mg kg-1 body weight) caused genetic damages in
the bone marrow of rats. Inhalation of titanium dioxide nanoparti-
cles (in the concentrations of 2.5–10 mg kg-1 body weight) during
90 days caused accumulation of these nanoparticles in the brain of
mice, oxidative stress in the cells of the brain, overproliferation of
all glial cells, tissue necrosis, hippocampal cell apoptosis and Figure 3. Schematic representation of metals accumulation in the skin
alterations in the expression of 249 known function genes (Ze and their absorption by the skin. Al, aluminium; As, arsenic; Cd, cadmium;
et al., 2014). Cr, chromium; Hg, mercury; Ni, nickel; Pb, lead.
563

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 S. Borowska and M. M. Brzóska

the amount of this element is reduced in the skin to the metallic oxidized when suspended in synthetic sweat into Ni2+ and Co2+
form and is accumulated in dermal tissues, which is seen as char- ions that can permeate the skin, whereas Cr powder is not oxidized
acteristic discolouration of the skin (Hg localized in the skin inacti- and thus cannot permeate the skin. The impact of sweat on Ni and
vates tyrosinase, which is the key melanine-forming enzyme; Chan Co penetration by the skin and these elements retention in the
et al., 2001; Hostynek, 2003). It has been revealed, using an in vitro stratum corneum were confirmed by Sartorelli et al. (2012). They
human skin model, that Hg is easily absorbed from popular skin- have noted that in vitro percutaneous absorption of 63Ni (from
lightening creams (Palmer et al., 2000). Application (without rub- nickel chloride) and 57Co (from cobalt chloride) through the hu-
bing) of 90 mg of skin-lightening cream (a typical amount of the man skin during 24 h from application in water and artificial sweat
cosmetic required to cover the exposed surface of the skin) con- reached 0.23 ± 0.34% and 1.04 ± 0.64%, respectively, and 0.76 ±
taining 290 μg Hg l-1 resulted in the concentration of 12 ± 1 μg 1.21% and 3.30 ± 2.65% respectively. The amounts of 63Ni and
Hg l-1 in the receptor compartment (representing systemic absorp- 57
Co present in the stratum corneum reached 50.33 ± 19.91% and
tion) after 3 h, whereas between the 18th and 24th hour the con- 27.62 ± 14.96%, respectively, in the case of application of these ele-
centration increased up to 33 ± 9 μg l-1 (Palmer et al., 2000). ments in water and 36.16 ± 9.30% and 41.30 ± 18.83%, respectively,
Similarly to Hg, Pb is rapidly absorbed via skin appendages when they were applied in artificial sweat (Sartorelli et al., 2012).
(Stauber et al., 1994). It has been detected (using 204Pb isotope) The percutaneous metal absorption is determined by many exo-
that within 24 h almost 30% of the amount of lead nitrate applied and endogenous factors. The first group involves the dose, vehicle,
to the skin (4.4 mg) was absorbed (Stauber et al., 1994). Sun et al. polarity, solubility, pH, frequency of application and the duration of
(2002) have revealed Pb absorption by the skin from various com- remaining on the skin as well as the temperature of the skin
pounds of this metal (lead sulphate, lead oxide, lead powder and (Palmer et al., 2000; Lin et al., 2012; Sartorelli et al., 2012; Otto
lead stearate) applied to the dorsal side of the hand and the back and Haydel, 2013). The main endogenous factors involve anatom-
of Pb-battery workers based on an increased Pb concentration in ical differences in skin properties, age (incomplete barrier function
their blood. in infants and neonates, diminishing lipid surface and blood sup-
Cd is absorbed well through the skin and is accumulated in the ply, and transepidermal water loss in the elderly), skin health,
liver and kidneys (Lansdown and Sampson, 1996). Moreover, Cd2+ and oxidation or reduction of metals in the skin (Hostynek, 2003).
ions bind tightly to epidermal keratin (Guy et al., 1999). Lansdown A very important factor influencing the efficiency of metal absorp-
and Sampson (1996) have noted that after 10-day application of tion via the skin is the place of cosmetic application. It is worth
1% solution of cadmium chloride to the rat’s skin, the blood con- underlining that the skin of the eyelids is the thinnest skin in the
centration of this heavy metal reached 11.65 μg l-1, whereas its body (Pratchyapruit et al., 2007), which enables easy absorption
concentration in the liver and kidneys was 0.526 and 0.216 mg of chemical substances, including metals, from eye make-up prod-
kg-1, respectively, providing clear evidence of this heavy metal ab- ucts. Moreover, dabbing a cosmetic in the skin facilitates metal ab-
sorption via the skin. An average Cd concentration in the skin of sorption (Lin et al., 2012). It is obvious that absorption of
these animals reached 6 mg kg-1, confirming its accumulation in xenobiotics via damaged skin is higher than through the intact
the skin (Lansdown and Sampson, 1996). skin (Lachenmeier, 2008; Pinneau et al., 2012). This also refers to
It has been revealed that a single application to the human skin metals (Filon et al., 2009). Filon et al. (2009) in in vitro permeation
of aluminium chlorohydrate, used as the active ingredient in many experiments, performed using Franz diffusion cells with intact
antiperspirants, is not a significant contributor to the body burden and damaged human skin, noted that Co and Ni powders (dis-
of Al (Flarend et al., 2001). Flarend et al. (2001) have noted that only persed in synthetic sweat at pH = 4.5 and applied to the outer sur-
4.5 μg of Al (0.04%) in a woman and 2.6 μg (0.02%) in a man were face of the skin for 24-h) permeate through the skin more easily
absorbed during 6 days after a single application to the skin under than Cr powder. Moreover, they have revealed that Co and Ni per-
an occlusive bandage of 12.4 and 13.3 mg, respectively. Some meation through the abraded skin barrier (3.6% and 1.27% of the
amounts (1.9 μg in the woman and 1.1 μg in the man) of the metal applied dose, respectively) was significantly higher compared with
applied to the skin were eliminated in the urine during the 6-day the intact skin (0.02% and 0.03% of the applied dose, respectively).
period. In the case of Cr, no significant difference in permeation through
In the available literature, there are no in vivo data indicating intact and damaged skin (0.03% and 0.01% of the applied dose, re-
that Ni, Cr or Co can permeate through the skin into internal or- spectively) was noted. Lower skin penetration by Cr powder than
gans. These metals form deposits at deeper layers of the stratum by Co and Ni powders may be explained with stronger binding
corneum causing allergic contact dermatitis (van Ketel and Liem, of Cr by the skin proteins (Filon et al., 2009).
1981; Goh et al., 1989; Zemba et al., 1992; Saxena et al., 2001; Kang
and Lee, 2006; Filon et al., 2009; Travassos et al., 2011). Ni binds
mainly to carboxyl groups of keratin in epidermal and dermal tis- Unfavourable Health Effects of Heavy Metals
sue and penetrates the stratum corneum via diffusion through in-
tercellular lipids (Guy et al., 1999). Cr (III) ions are unable to
Presence in Cosmetics
penetrate biological membranes and are linked with epithelial In the available literature, some cases of topical and systemic ef-
and dermal tissues, forming stable complexes (Guy et al., 1999). fects, related to the use of cosmetics containing heavy metals, in-
Cr (VI) compounds such as chromate (CrO2- 4 ) and dichromate cluding serious clinical cases, have been reported (Warley et al.,
(Cr2O2-7 ) are rapidly taken up by cells through the anion transport 1968; Waldron, 1979; Shaltout et al., 1981; van Ketel and Liem,
system (Guy et al., 1999). Cr (VI) applied to the skin is reduced to 1981; Goh et al., 1989; Zemba et al., 1992; Chan et al., 2001; Saxena
Cr (III) ions during passage through the skin (Guy et al., 1999). It et al., 2001; Soo et al., 2003; CDC, 2005, 2012a, 2012b; Foulds, 2006;
has been revealed that metal absorption through the skin is closely Tang et al., 2006, 2013; Held and Bayerl, 2008; Özkaya et al., 2009; Li
related to the capacity of sweat to oxidize metals (Larese et al., et al., 2010; Amry et al., 2011; Benz et al., 2011; Chakera et al., 2011;
2007). Larese et al. (2007), using the Franz diffusion cells with hu- Travassos et al., 2011; Lin et al., 2012; Dickenson et al., 2013). Topi-
man skin, demonstrated that metal powders of Ni and Co can be cal effects such as various allergic reactions were caused mainly by
564

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Metals in cosmetics

Ni and Fe present particularly in colour cosmetics (van Ketel and the same product (especially in coloured cosmetics, for example
Liem, 1981; Goh et al., 1989; Zemba et al., 1992, Saxena et al., Ni and Cr in eye pencils; Table 1; Zemba et al., 1992). Kang and
2001; Foulds, 2006; Travassos et al., 2011), whereas especially Lee (2006) noticed a case of allergic contact dermatitis after the
unfavourable effects, including internal organs damage, were re- use of henna because of Ni, Co and p-phenylenediamine were
ported as a result of Hg or Pb presence (Warley et al., 1968; present in this product. In most of the above-described cases of al-
Shaltout et al., 1981; , Al Mahroos and Faap, 1993; Weldon et al., lergy caused by the use of cosmetics containing metals (especially
2000; Chan et al., 2001; Soo et al., 2003; CDC, 2005, 2012a, 2012b, Ni), the allergy to metals was confirmed by patch tests (van Ketel
2013a; Tang et al., 2006, 2013; Held and Bayerl, 2008; Özkaya and Liem, 1981; Goh et al., 1989; Zemba et al., 1992; Saxena et al.,
et al., 2009; Al Naama et al., 2010; Li et al., 2010; Benz et al., 2011; 2001; Foulds, 2006; Kang and Lee, 2006; Travassos et al., 2011). Peo-
Chakera et al., 2011; Lin et al., 2012; Dickenson et al., 2013). In most ple who know that they are allergic to metals should completely
cases, we did not find any information that the products avoid cosmetics containing metals such as Ni, Cr, Co or Fe. Thus,
responsible for the harmful effects had labels indicating the pres- manufacturers should provide on packagings the information
ence of metals as ingredients. Only Özkaya et al. (2009) mentioned about the presence and levels of these metals in the final products.
that one cream had the abbreviation ’precip blanc‘ on the label, Cd and Cu present in cosmetics are other metals responsible for
which should suggest that this product contains Hg. None of the unintended effects to the human body. A case of change of the
authors describing cases of poisoning and other unfavourable hair colour into green after the use of henna containing Cu was ob-
health effects caused by metals from cosmetics provided informa- served (Tosti et al., 1991). Severe eye keratitis after using kohl,
tion whether health authorities had removed these products from which contained high amounts of Cd (6259 mg kg-1) and trace
the market and we cannot be sure if these products are still avail- concentrations of Hg and thallium (Tl), has been reported in a
able or not. 21-year-old woman (Amry et al., 2011).
A few cases of allergic contact dermatitis caused by Ni from eye Although Hg is widely known as a dangerous heavy metal
make-up products have been described (van Ketel and Liem, 1981; (Karagas et al., 2012; Sommar et al., 2013) and some cases of poi-
Goh et al., 1989; Zemba et al., 1992). In one case, a woman suffered sonings owing to the use of skin creams containing this element
from oedema and eczema of her eyelids after using for a few days have been reported in the past (Karagas et al., 2012; Sommar
the eye shadows containing 15.9 mg Ni kg-1 and 4.5 mg Co kg-1. et al., 2013), Hg-containing skin-lightening creams are still com-
Her problems disappeared after she had stopped using this prod- monly used in many developing countries. Some women, espe-
uct. She had the same kind of skin problems in the past because of cially from Africa, Asia or Mexico, often use such creams (Weldon
using an eye shadow of another brand (Goh et al., 1989). Another et al., 2000; Soo et al., 2003; Tang et al., 2006, 2013; Chakera et al.,
woman was suffering from eyelid eczema for 13 months because 2011; CDC, 2012b). Using skin-lightening creams containing
of using an eye pencil containing 1.4 mg Ni kg-1 and 6.19 mg Cr 1762–30 000 mg Hg kg-1 resulted in an elevated concentration
kg-1. Her health problem disappeared after corticosteroids treat- of Hg in hair (22.5 mg kg-1 vs. < 11.6 mg kg-1 in the family mem-
ment, but the eczema returned when she started to use this prod- bers non-using these cosmetics; Chan et al., 2001), blood (26–233
uct again (Zemba et al., 1992). van Ketel and Liem (1981) nmol l-1 vs. its normal concentration < 30–50 nmol l-1 according
mentioned two women with eyelid dermatitis, one of whom also to various authors; Chan et al., 2001; Soo et al., 2003; Chakera
had hand dermatitis. They considered Ni as a cause of these prob- et al., 2011; Tang et al., 2013) and urine (316–2521 nmol per day
lems. The eye shadows used by these women contained 76 and 87 vs. normal concentration < 10–50 nmol per 24 h according to var-
mg Ni kg-1, whereas the mascara used by one of them contained ious authors; Chan et al., 2001; Soo et al., 2003; Tang et al., 2013).
102 mg Ni kg-1. Allergic contact dermatitis, itching, erythema, Using skin-lightening creams resulted in low back pain (Chan
moderate infiltration and scaling of both eyelids (symptoms last- et al., 2001), sleep disorders, as well as in kidney damage mani-
ing 4 months) were also noticed in a woman from Belgium who fested by the oedema of this organ, stiffness of the glomerular pe-
used an eye pencil containing Ni in the concentration of 0.028 ripheral capillary loops, slight thickening of the glomerular
mg kg-1. These symptoms disappeared after stopping the use of basement membrane, mild proliferation of mesangial cells and
this cosmetic, but they returned after she started to use this eye matrix (Soo et al., 2003; Li et al., 2010), ankle swelling, frothy urine
pencil again (Travassos et al., 2011). Five cases of facial eczema (Soo et al., 2003), proteinuria (Soo et al., 2003; Tang et al., 2006,
connected with using foundations containing iron oxide pigments 2013; Li et al., 2010), as well as peripheral and periorbital oedema
with trace amounts of Ni have been reported (Foulds, 2006). Ni was (Chakera et al., 2011). In addition, systemic allergic dermatitis, ery-
also found in iron oxide brown pigments (1.9–250 mg kg-1) used thema and itchy papulo-vesicular lesions 5–6 h after the applica-
for the production of eye cosmetics (van Ketel and Liem, 1981). tion of the skin-lightening cream containing Hg have been
In addition, an incident of a 44-year-old woman with persistent observed (Özkaya et al., 2009). Nephropathy was also reported in
eyelid allergic contact dermatitis (lasting for 10 months) caused a woman exposed to Hg for 36 months from a hair dye who had
by 5% black iron oxide from a mascara has been noticed. Simulta- the urinary concentration of this metal at the level of 27 μg l-1 (Li
neously the patch tests showed that she was also susceptible to et al., 2010). Weldon et al. (2000) detected an elevated concentra-
lanolin present in this cosmetic (Saxena et al., 2001). However, tion of Hg in the urine (mean 146.7 μg l-1; range 0 – 1,170 μg l-1;
her condition improved after she stopped using the mascara. An- whereas the safe concentration is up to 20 μg l-1; CDC, 1990)
other allergen often present in coloured cosmetics is Cr (Zemba among 330 lightening-cream users from Texas (USA).
et al., 1992; Sainio et al., 2000; Kang et al., 2006; Atz and Pozebon, It is very important to underline that there exists strong and
2009; Al-Dayel et al., 2011). Chromium hydroxide green [Cr2O well-confirmed evidence that using Hg-containing cosmetics
(OH)4] and chromium oxide green (Cr2O3) are added intentionally may be a source of exposure to this metal of the family members
to eye shadows as colouring agents (Kang et al., 2006), which is ap- non-using these products. The exposure may occur by the dermal
proved by EU regulations (OJEU, 2009). The threshold for allergic route and through the gastrointestinal tract as well as by inhalation
reactivity to Cr (VI) is 5 mg l-1 (Kang et al., 2006). It should be em- of Hg vapours (Held and Bayerl, 2008; CDC, 2012b). In the USA, a
phasized that metals causing allergic reactions may be present in study was performed to establish a Hg concentration in the urine
565

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 S. Borowska and M. M. Brzóska

of 22 members of 5 households where skin-lightening creams et al., 2010; Lin et al., 2012; Goswami, 2013). The blood Pb concen-
coming from Mexico were used (CDC, 2012b). Hg was detected trations in 222 children from China having applied Pb powder for a
in excessive amounts (≥5 μg g-1 creatinine) in the urine of 15 peo- skin care purpose (as a folk remedy) ranged from 0.19 to 69.0 μg
ple; however, only 10 of the 22 people declared the use of skin- 100 ml-1. The mean blood concentration of this heavy metal in
lightening creams. Among the 15 people (9 users and 6 non-users the entire group reached 18.1 μg 100 ml-1, whereas in regular
of these creams), the Hg concentration in the urine ranged from users, irregular users and non-users of this powder the concentra-
26–317 μg g-1 of creatinine for users and from 20 to 276 μg g-1 tion was 32 μg 100 ml-1, 12 μg 100 ml-1 and 6 μg 100 ml-1, respec-
of creatinine for non-users. Only in one user of these creams, the tively (Lin et al., 2012). The final formulations (prepared by mixing
Hg concentration in the urine was below 5 μg g-1 creatinine. High lead monoxide – reddish powder with talcum powder) used for
concentrations of Hg in the urine were also observed in young chil- infants’ eczema and other skin problems in these children
dren from families described above (up to 276 μg g-1 creatinine; contained from 42 g Pb kg-1 to 623 g Pb kg-1 (Lin et al., 2012).
CDC, 2012b). The non-specific symptoms of chronic Hg poisoning The blood Pb concentrations in two twin children from the His-
(numbness, tingling, dizziness, forgetfulness, headaches, and de- panic community in the USA who used a yellow powder called
pression) were observed in six users of these products. The results ’litargirio‘ containing 790 g Pb kg-1 as an antiperspirant reached
suggest that the 6 family members who had an increased Hg con- 14 μg 100 ml-1 and then increased (from June 2001 to May 2003)
centration in the urine also were exposed to this metal from the up to 42 μg 100 ml-1 for one of them and 15 μg 100 ml-1 in the
bleaching creams. The concentration of Hg vapours in spot house- other and then increased up to 26 μg 100 ml-1 (CDC, 2005). The
hold locations (for example near items frequently touched Pb concentration in the blood of their female cousins aged 1 and
by cream users or furniture where creams were stored) reached 5 years was 32 μg 100 ml-1 (from June 2002 to January 2003) and
17 – 50 μg per m3 (CDC, 2012b). Cases of Hg poisonings from then increased up to 44 μg 100 ml-1), and 24 μg 100 ml-1 and then
skin-bleaching creams containing this element were also affirmed increased up to 29 μg 100 ml-1, respectively (CDC, 2005). The youn-
in two families who originated from the Kosovo–Albanian region ger sister had not used litargirio, but she shared a bedroom with
(Held and Bayerl, 2008). Elevated Hg concentrations in the urine her sister (who used it regularly) and probably she ingested resi-
were detected in a school survey in one of the sons of each family dues of this product present on various surfaces through hand-
and it was the reason for screening all members of these families. to-mouth activity. The concentration of Pb in the blood of this girl
The highest concentrations of Hg were found in females who had decreased after her sister stopped using this product (CDC, 2005).
used creams containing this element. One of them suffered from In the available literature, we can found many cases of poison-
chronic headaches and another lost weight and had high blood ings caused by Pb from kohl (surma), which might be absorbed
pressure. One of the male members of these families who did through the conjunctiva, lacrimation, eye rubbing and finger suck-
not use these creams suffered from concentration impairment ing by children (Warley et al., 1968; Shaltout et al., 1981; Al Mahroos
and gastrointestinal disorders. Because the women kept their and Faap, 1993; Al Naama et al., 2010; CDC, 2012a, 2013a;
creams in the fridges, the family members might be exposed to Goswami, 2013). Many years ago, Warley et al. (1968) reported a
this metal present in their diet (Held and Bayerl, 2008). case of Pb poisoning from kohl in a 3-year-old Indian boy (resident
Particularly dangerous poisonings caused by Hg from cosmetics in England) admitted to hospital with Pb encephalopathy. This
were noted in children and pregnant women (Benz et al., 2011; child had convulsions, Pb lines in the long bones and intestinal
Dickenson et al., 2013). In a 4-year-old Iraqi girl, symptoms indicat- opacities, suggesting ingestion of this heavy metal. The Pb concen-
ing chronic intoxication with Hg such as clonic seizures, loss of ap- tration in his blood was very high and reached 178 μg 100 ml-1.
petite, and weight loss, weakness, dysthymia, impulsiveness, The blood concentrations of this metal in his mother and a 5-
itching rash in the palms, tachycardia, and hypertension, and hy- year-old sibling were 65 μg 100 ml-1 and 72 μg 100 ml-1, respec-
perintense lesions in the brain were observed after 3-month use tively. The only source of the three subjects’ exposure to Pb was
of this metal-containing skin-whitening cream. The concentrations surma used by the mother for cosmetic reasons and in children
of Hg in her blood and urine reached 32.5 and 41.1 μg l-1, respec- for ’health‘ (Warley et al., 1968). Pb from kohl has also been consid-
tively (Benz et al., 2011), whereas the safe level of Hg in urine has ered as the cause of encephalopathy noted in Kuwait (Shaltout
been considered to be < 20 μg per l-1 (CDC, 1990) and the highest et al., 1981) and Bahrain children (Al Mahroos and Faap, 1993).
acceptable concentration of this element in the blood is 6 μg l-1 Too high concentrations of Pb in the blood of children of two
(Kuno et al., 2013). Using two different face creams, containing families originating from Afghanistan and Nigeria were noticed
21 and 30 g Hg kg-1, purchased from a pharmacy in Mexico by a in USA as the result of using kohl or ’tiro‘ (a Nigerian cosmetic very
woman who was in the third trimester of pregnancy resulted in a similar to kohl used in Asia) to promote eye health or to protect the
blood Hg concentration of 15.16 μg l-1 (Dickenson et al., 2013). children from ’the evil eye‘ (CDC, 2012a, 2013a). Fortunately, de-
The concentration of this element detected in her bathroom near spite too high concentrations of Pb in the blood (reaching up to
the jars of these face creams reached above 11 μg per m3 33.5 μg 100 ml-1), they had no signs of Pb toxicity, because the
(Dickenson et al., 2013), while its acceptable residential indoor air chelation therapy was performed very quickly (CDC, 2012a,
concentration is ≤ 0.5 μg per m3 (CDC, 1990). 2013a). The content of Pb in the kohl used by the family originat-
According to Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), ing from Afghanistan reached 54% (CDC, 2013a), whereas this
the acceptable Pb level in the blood of children is below 5 μg 100 metal content in the tiro used by the Nigerian family was 82.6%
ml-1, whereas in adults from the general population (not working (CDC, 2012a). The mean blood Pb concentration among 69 chil-
in factory or other places where high concentrations of Pb are dren in India whose parents applied kohl on their bodies (e.g. to
present) the level is below 10 μg Pb 100 ml-1 (CDC, 2013b, stop bleeding after a circumcision) was 29.6 ± 10.2 μg 100 ml-1
2013c). Elevated Pb concentrations in the blood were reported in (Goswami, 2013). On the labels of the surma packages it was not
children and adults as a result of using cosmetic products contain- mentioned that this product contained Pb; however, this metal
ing this heavy metal (Warley et al., 1968; Shaltout et al., 1981; Al was present in all collected samples in the concentrations ranging
Mahroos and Faap, 1993; CDC, 2005, 2012a, 2013a; Al Naama from 0.64 to 32.13 mg kg-1 (Goswami, 2013). Al Naama et al. (2010)
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Metals in cosmetics

have reported higher Pb concentrations in the blood of women radiopaque particles in an ultrasound gel pad, simulating breast
from Iraq using kohl (13.91 ± 4.42 μg 100 ml-1) in comparison with tissue. These particles were seen on a mammography, mimicking
their counterparts not using this product (9.88 ± 2.68 μg 100 ml-1). microcalcifications whoses shape depends on the mode of appli-
Many years ago a case of poisoning with Pb in a child from a hair cation (solid, gel and roll-on) of the antiperspirants (Mesurolle
cosmetic used to darken hair was described. The concentration of et al., 2014). The presence of radiopaque particles originating from
Pb in the blood of the 4-year-old girl was 1,360 μg l-1. The Environ- antiperspirants in an ultrasound gel pad, simulating breast tissue,
mental Health Department discovered that the only source of Pb in clearly shows that Al is accumulated in the breast tissue. Moreover,
her home was the product that her mother used to darken her hair. some data indicate that Al is accumulated in high concentrations
The girl was in the habit of putting her fingers into cosmetic and in nipple aspirate fluid present in the breast ducts of the people
licking them, and she suffered from Pb encephalopathy, head- suffering from the breast cancer (Mannello et al., 2011) and in
aches, nausea and pale-grey colour of the skin (Waldron, 1979). the human breast cyst fluid of the people suffering from gross
The above-mentioned, well-documented reports on the cystic breast disease (Mannello et al., 2009). However, it is unclear
unfavourable effects related to metals presence in commercially whether this metal found in the breast of the human who suffered
available cosmetics provide strong evidence that heavy metals from breast cancer originated from antiperspirants.
present in these products may be dangerous. The results of experiments conducted in recent years
(Sappino et al., 2012; Darbre et al., 2013) confirmed the possibil-
ity of Al participation in the development of cancer. Sappino
Danger for Health Created by Al Presence in et al. (2012) revealed that aluminium chloride in concentrations
of 10–300 μM (approximately 100 000-fold lower than those
Cosmetics found in antiperspirants) acts as an activated oncogene in prolif-
As was mentioned previously, Al compounds may be present in erating primary human mammary epithelial cells because it in-
various types of cosmetic products, including antiperspirants, col- duces genomic instability, DNA synthesis, senescence in
our cosmetics, creams and cosmetic emulsions, as well as in tradi- proliferating primary human mammary epithelial cells and DNA
tional products and cosmetics containing minerals from the Dead double-strand breaks, as well as it displays strong upregulation
Sea (Table 2). The use of these cosmetics is one of the sources of of the p53/p21Waf1 pathway (a key mediator of growth arrest
exposure to Al, which is absorbed through the skin, and accumu- and senescence) and it promotes anchorage-independent
lated in the organism as the result of repeated use of these prod- growth in human mammary epithelial cells. Mutagenic action
ucts. Al is a metal characterized by high toxicity and under was observed only in the cell line present in the human breast
prolonged exposure it accumulates in the bone tissue leading to while it was not observed neither in bacteria nor in human
osteomalacia (Guillard et al., 2004) and in the brain contributing keratinocytes, and it is strong evidence that Al has cancerogenic
to the development of Alzheimer’s disease and other neurodegen- activity in human breasts (Sappino et al., 2012). Darbre et al.
erative disorders (Exley and Vickers, 2014). (2013) have noticed that Al can increase migratory and invasive
Some literature data shows that Al presence in cosmetic prod- properties of the human breast cancer cell line.
ucts may create a danger for human health (Guillard et al., 2004;
Sappino et al., 2012). Guillard et al. (2004) have provided clear evi-
dence of an unfavourable action of Al present in antiperspirants on
Conclusions
the health of these products users. They have reported a case of The numerous data presented in this review paper provide evi-
43-year-old woman suffering from hyperaluminemia, bone pain, dence that heavy metals and the presence of Al and their too high
and extreme fatigue after using everyday for 4 years an antiperspi- concentrations have been detected in cosmetics produced in var-
rant cream containing aluminium chlorohydrate. The woman ap- ious countries, including countries with established strict law limi-
plied to each underarm about 1 g of the antiperspirant cream tations on metals in cosmetics. The fact that nowadays people may
containing 20% of aluminium chlorohydrate (the authors did not buy cosmetic products via the Internet or bring them from the
provide data about a brand of this product), what constituted a countries without any specific regulations concerning the maxi-
daily dose of 0.108 g of Al(III), which over a 4-year period mum levels of metals in cosmetics creates the risk of the use of
amounted to 157.3 g. The use of this antiperspirant was the only contaminated cosmetic products even in countries with strict reg-
source of this woman’s exposure to Al. This element was detected ulations on metals content in these products. Reported in the liter-
in her plasma and urine in concentrations of 3.88 ± 0.07 μmol l-1 ature are cases of allergic reactions and systemic actions caused by
(the normal concentration is < 0.37 μmol l-1) and 1.71 μmol per heavy metals present in cosmetics together with the available data
24 h (the normal concentration is < 1.1 μmol per 24 h), respec- on metal concentrations in cosmetics nowadays produced show
tively. When the woman has stopped using the antiperspirant, that the risk of the unfavourable health effects due to metals pres-
the Al concentrations in the urine and plasma decreased and ence in the used cosmetics is still real. Thus, appropriate actions, in-
reached the reference levels (3 and 8 months later, respectively), cluding especially the setting of limits of occurrence when they are
and then the bone pain and fatigue completely disappeared lacking until now as well as regular control of raw materials, condi-
(Guillard et al., 2004). This case clearly indicates that Al present in tions of cosmetics production and the final products are necessary.
antiperspirants may be harmful for human health and that cessa- This is particularly important because cosmetic products are used
tion of use of this cosmetic allows recovery. every day all over the world not only by women and men but also
It is supposed that the presence of Al in antiperspirants can con- by children and older people in who metal absorption via the skin
tribute to the development of breast cancer, especially of the up- is facilitated and who are more susceptible to their toxic action.
per outer quadrant of the breast being a part of the body where That is why cosmetics should be considered as a possible source
antiperspirants are applied (Darbre, 2003; Darbre, 2006; Mannello of exposure to toxic metals and in the case of poisonings with
et al., 2009, 2011; Sappino et al., 2012; Darbre et al., 2013). Al-based metals when the history of the case do not provide evidence of
complexes (used in antiperspirants as active ingredients) produce exposure to metals from occupational and environmental
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 S. Borowska and M. M. Brzóska

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 S. Borowska and M. M. Brzóska

Table S4. Concentrations of metals detected in foundation Table S8A. Concentrations of heavy metals detected in raw mate-
creams, make-up bases, powders, nail polish and blushers pro- rials, natural cosmetics and cosmetics considered as natural prod-
duced in various countries (mg kg-1) ucts (mg kg-1)

Table S5. Concentrations of heavy metals detected in face and Table S8B. Concentrations of heavy metals detected in raw mate-
body care products (mg kg-1) rials, natural cosmetics and cosmetics considered as natural prod-
ucts (mg kg-1)
Table S6 Concentrations of heavy metals detected in face and
body care products (mg kg-1) Table S9 Concentrations of heavy metals detected in raw material,
natural cosmetics and cosmetics considered as natural products
Table S7A. Concentrations of heavy metals detected in hair cos- (mg kg-1)
metics (mg kg-1)

Table S7B. Concentrations of heavy metals detected in hair cos-

metics (mg kg-1)
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