Textile Finishing
Textile Finishing - 1
Overview
• Literature and Information
• Organisation
• Contents
• Fibres
• Definitions
• Pretreatment of Cotton
Textile Finishing - 1
Literature
• Perkins: Textile Coloration and Finishing
• J. Shore: Cellulosics Dyeing
• D. Heywood: Textile Finishing
• VEB Fachbuchverlag: Veredlung von Textilien
• H.-K. Rouette: Handbuch Textilveredlung
• H.-K. Rouette, M. Peter: Grundlagen der
Textilveredlung
• M. Peter: Grundlagen der Textilveredlung
• H. Rath: Lehrbuch der Textilchemie
• A. Giessmann: Substrat- und Textilbeschichtung
Textile Finishing - 1
Information
Journals/Associations
• Melliand
• SDC, TVI, VDTF…
Exhibitions/Fairs
• Aachen Textile Conference (29.-30.11.2007)
Textile Finishing - 1
Contents
• Preparation processes
– Cotton: singeing, desizing, scouring, mercerizing,
bleaching, brightening
– Wool: Washing, carbonisation, milling
– Silk: degumming
– Polyester: washing, thermo setting
• Finishing
– mechanical: raising, shearing, sanding, calendering,
– Mechanical/chemical: decatising, shrinking
– chemical: anti creasing/easy care, softening,
hydrophobic/oleophobic finishing
– coating, laminating
Textile Finishing - 1
End uses and their market share
Heimtextilien
home textiles
29%
technical
technische textiles
Textilien
40%
apparel
Bekleidung
31%
Source: Gesamtverband der deutschen
Textile Finishing - 1 Textil- und Modeindustrie
Quantity of fibres/industry (D)
Man-made fibres Cotton Wool
Apparel
~ 59 % ~ 25 % ~ 16 %
industry
Domestic
~ 82 % ~ 15 % ~3%
textiles
Technical
~ 98 % ~ 2% -
textiles
Total 82% 12% 6%
Source: Gesamtverband der deutschen
Textile Finishing - 1 Textil- und Modeindustrie
Global Fibre Demand
Market Shares of Textile Fibres (Volume [t], 2005)
Total app. 65.531.000 Tons
(4.112.000 to) (1.211.000 to)
6,6 % PA 7,0 % PP 2,0 % WO
(3.886.000 to)
36 % CO
(21.137.000 to)
38,6 % PES
(22.613.000 to)
4,9 % CV
(2.852.000 to)
4,6 % PAN
(2.696.000 to)
Textile Finishing - 1
Source : PCI Fibres, World Synthetic Fibres Supply/Demand Report 2004, CIRFS 2007
Textile chain
Primary- Filaments und yarns
and secondary-
spinning processes
Fabrication Non-woven, woven fabrics and
of fabrics knitted fabrics , ribbons …
Textile finishing
Ready-to-wear
clothing
Distribution/trade/
consumption/
preparation
ecological relevance
Waste/
Recycling
Textile Finishing - 1
Sub-processes of textile finishing
Textile finishing
=
Finishing and
coating
+
Coloration Finishing +
Pretreatment (Dyeing and printing) coating
Preparation Optical effects Haptic effects
for all Optical effects
following Functional effects
processes
Textile Finishing - 1
Finishing
• Classification according to methods
– dry/wet
– mechanical/chemical
– subtractive/additive
• Classification by substrates
• Classification by finished products
• Classification by form of supply and
manufacturing processes
– Loose stock, yarn/filament, surface area: hank/„open
width“
– continuous, semi continuous , discontinuous
Textile Finishing - 1
Textile auxiliaries
Statistic of textile processing agents D, 2000
[total volume 84 451 t]
9% 13% spinning
weaving and knitting
5%
preparation
3%
Coloration
Finishing
18% Detergents
52%
Source: TEGEWA
Textile Finishing - 1
Distribution of textile auxiliaries
Finishing agents [%]
1% 1% 0,3% coating
2%
2%2% softener
5%
22% flame retardants
6% easy care
stiffening
variation of handle
hydrophobic/oleophobic
12%
finish
non-slip finish
whitening agents
19% sewing thread finish
antistatics
13%
antifelting finishing
agents
antimicrobial finish
15%
Haptic variations Functional finish
Textile Finishing - 1
Preparation
Preparation of grey cloth for the following
finishing processes :
Pre-treatment
• Removal of all interfering
substances (due to growing dry wet
or product processes) processes processes
• Increasing of the absorbing mechanical- washing
capacity for dye stuffs, thermal desizing
auxiliaries and chemicals processes: mercerizing
relaxing
• Removal of latent tensions polishing, bleaching
singeing, brightening
• fixation
cutting, milling
setting carbonisation
stabilisation degumming
etc. etc.
Textile Finishing - 1
Finishing and coating
Finishing +
Last production step after coating*
dyeing to improve or
mechanical chemical
modify the textiles: processes processes
• touch and handle raising
variation in
fabric handle
• product surface shearing dimensional stability
sanding
water-repellent
• optic calendering oil-repellent
pressing hydrophilic
• function steaming antimicrobial
shrinking antistatic
• wash and wear decatising flame retardant
etc.
properties finishing
*laminating
Textile Finishing - 1 *coating
