online beginner
exclusive chain mail
Infinity Mail
EASY CHAIN MAIL
“ ”Chain
Pattern
Link four different wire gauges in
a simple, lightweight chain
design with endless appeal.
by Scott David Plumlee
I
developed this chain in 2002 when I was seeking to create new, lightweight
designs to appeal to buyers who might be put off by the weight of many chain
mail patterns. Through trial and error, I struck on a design that balanced the
simplicity of single, heavier rings with a more complex overlapping pattern
of finer rings. This design uses four gauges of wire, all balanced and in
harmony. Unlike many chain mail designs, this finished chain has a
definite front side and back side, because the interlocking infinity
pattern is added only on one side of the chain.
© 2008 Kalmbach Publishing Co. This material may not be reproduced in
any form without permission from the publisher. www.A r t J e w e l r y M a g . c o m
forge your
own S-clasp
For a quick video tutorial on
forging an S-clasp, go to
www.artjewelrymag.com/howto.
1 Scott David
Plumlee has
been creating
silver chain
jewelry for
the past
decade,
originating
over 70 chain designs. He researched
ancient chain designs while traveling
through 32 countries on four continents.
2 He is the author of Handcrafting
Chain and Bead Jewelry, and has
taught classes and workshops
throughout the U.S.
3
Make the base chain. Close all the Add the small infinity pattern. Thread
5.5 mm and 4.5 mm jump rings, making a 3.0 mm jump ring through the pair of
sure that they’re closed flush and that they 3.5 mm rings on the left side of the first
lie flat. (For a quick video tutorial on 4.5 mm ring [2].
opening and closing jump rings, go to Thread another 3.0 mm ring through
www.artjewelrymag.com/howto.) the pair of 3.5 mm rings on the right side
Use a flat file to remove any burs from of the same 4.5 mm ring, and through the
the outside of the jump rings and a round 3.0 mm ring you just added [3].
file to remove any burs from the inside of The two interlocking 3.0 mm rings
the jump rings. create an overlapping “infinity” pattern.
Assemble the base chain by using Repeat until you’ve added an interlocking
pairs of 3.5 mm jump rings to link all of infinity pattern over each of the 4.5 mm
the 4.5 mm and 5.5 mm jump rings in an rings in the chain.
alternating pattern [1].
www.A r t J e w e l r y M a g . c o m
Add the large infinity pattern. Thread
Process photos by Scott David Plumlee.
a 3.5 mm ring through the pair of 3.5 mm
jump rings on the left side of the second
5.5 mm jump ring [4].
Add a second 3.5 mm ring through
the pair of 3.5 mm rings on the right side
of the same 5.5 mm ring, and through the
3.5 mm ring you just added [5].
Repeat until you’ve added an interlock-
4 ing infinity pattern over all but the end
two 5.5 mm jump rings [6].
Add the clasp. Open the 5.5 mm ring at
one end of the chain, thread an S-clasp on
it, then close the ring [7]. The 5.5 mm ring
at the other end of the chain will serve as
the clasp’s catch-ring.
5
materials
■ Sterling silver jump rings:
■ 12, 14-gauge (1.6 mm), round,
5.5 mm inside diameter (ID)
■ 11, 16-gauge (1.3 mm), round,
4.5 mm ID
6 ■ 64, 18-gauge (1.0 mm), round,
3.5 mm ID
■ 22, 20-gauge (0.8 mm), round,
3.0 mm ID
■ S-clasp: hand forged or premade
tools & supplies
■ 2 pairs of pliers: chainnose or flatnose
■ Files: flat, round
suppliers
7 ■ Jump rings (www.spiderchain.com,
www.urbanmaille.com)
www.A r t J e w e l r y M a g . c o m
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