Types of Textile Fibers

Session 2

fiber or textile fiber

Smallest unit of textile which can be characterized by flexibility, fineness and high ratio of length to thickness. A unit of matter which is capable of being spun into a yarn or made into a fabric by bonding. It is a smallest textile component which is microscopic hair like substance that may be man made or natural.

CLASSIFICATION OF FIBRES

Classification of Fibres
Natural Fibers
Vegetable/Cellulosic/Plant Fibres Animal/Plant Fibres Mineral fibers

Man Made fibers

Regenerated fibres Synthetic fibres

Classification of fibers can be done by:

Type (Natural and manufactured) Length (Staple , filament)

Size (Ultra fine, fine, regular, course)

Classification on the basis of length

Staple
Definite length 10 to 500mm
Eg. Cotton, wool etc.

Filament
Indefinite length
Eg. Silk, man made fibers etc.

Fiber Property
1. Abrasion Resistance
Resistance of fiber to wear and tear from rubbing (resistance to rubbing).

2. Absorbency
Ability to absorb water Hydrophilic fibers Hydrophobic

Absorbency Affects 1. Skin Comfort 2. Static build-up 3. Dimensional stability 4. Stain removal 5. Water repellency 6. Wrinkle recovery Method to measure MR-oven dry wt. MC-air dry wt.

3. Cover
Ability to occupy area

4. Elasticity
Ability to increase in length when under tension (elongation) and then return to the original length when released (recovery). Elastomeric Fibers

5. Flexibility
Ability to bend Drape

6. Hand
Feel of the fabric Depends upon 3 things: Shape (cross sectional) Surface (longitudinal) Configuration (crimped or straight)

7. Luster reflection from surface

Depends upon shape and surface

8. Pilling
Tendency of the fiber to form small balls of broken entangled fibers that remain sticking to the surface of fabric.

9. Resiliency
Ability of a fibre to come back to its original shape after it being crushed or creased or compressed.

10. Wicking
Ability of fibre to transfer water

NATURAL FIBRE
Under them there are various categories: (1) plant (cellulosic fibers) (2) animal (protein fibers) (3) minerals

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Natural Cellulosic Fibers

Seed

Fibers

Cotton Kapok

Stem (bast) Fibers

Flax (Linen) Jute Hemp Ramie

Leaf Fibers
Pina (pineapple) Abaca (banana)

Properties Common to Cellulosic Fibers

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. Good absorbency Good conductor of Heat Ability to withstand high temp. Low resiliency Less bulky Good conductor of electricity Heavy fibre Harmed by acids Attacked by mildew Damaged by silver fish Flammable Moderate resistance to sunlight

Cotton
Natural-Cellulosic, seed-staple fibre Cotton cultivation-steps
Planting Ripening Picking Drying Ginning

 Major producers
USA, China, India, Pakistan, Brazil, Egypt

Indian varieties
Shankar-6 F-16 J-414

CONVOLUTIONS
Natural twist in cotton fibre Characteristic feature of cotton

 Composition 90% cellulose,6% moisture and the remainder fats and impurities. the outer surface is covered with a protective wax like coating which gives fibre an adhesive quality.

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PROPERTIES
Staple Length-20mm to 50mm Thickness-16 to 20micromtr Convolutions
Long Staple 300 c/inch Short Staple 200c/inch Matte appearance Low Lustre

Color-creamy white to light or brown Aesthetic properties

Durability

Comfort

Medium Strength fibre Wet strength is higher than dry strength Elongation 3-5% Poor elasticity MR-7% Very comfortable fibre Soft hand Good Heat and electrical conductivity

 Appearance Retention
Moderate low resiliency Moderate ER (75% @ 2-5%)

Care
No special care Hot water Cl bleach Store clean & dry Harmed by acids

Uses
Apparel, Accessories, household articles, industrial textile, medical uses

Flax (Linen)
Natural, Cellulosic, Bast, staple Fibre Rich-man cotton NODES

Properties
Length 5-21.5 inches Fineness-12-16 micromtr Aesthetic
High natural luster Stiffer in drape than cotton Harsher in hand than cotton

Durability
Wet strength > dry Low elongation (~7%) Poor elasticity (65% @ 2%)

Comfort
MR 12% Good conductor of electricity & heat

 Care
Harmed by acid Resistant to alkalies Resistant to high temp. Cl Bleach Required frequent pressing Low resiliency More resistant to sunlight than cotton Must be stored dry

ANIMAL/PROTEIN FIBRE
COMMON PROPERTIES
High Resiliency Hygroscopic Weaker when wet Lighter than cellulosic Harmed by alkali No Cl Sunlight damage

WOOL
Wool is the fiber derived from the fur of animals principally sheep. Steps in production Sheering Grading Sorting

Properties of wool
1.5 to 5 10 to 50micromtr Crimp and scales Aesthetic
Matte Lofty

Durability
High More dry strength Excellent elongation (25%) Excellent ER

 Comfort
MR 13-18% Poor conductor of heat Excellent resiliency

Care
Resistant to dust Resistant to oil and spot Frequent creasing not required Do not wrinkle

Silk
Natural, protein, filament fiber Sericulture

Properties
Filament 1.25 denier Aesthetic
Soft, luster

Durability
Moderate abrasion resistant 20% less strength when wet Breaking elongation of 20% ER (90% @ 2%)

Comfort
MR 11% Poor conductor of heat

 Care
Dry cleaning agent Can water spot easily Damaged and yellowed by strong alkali and high temp. No Cl No resistant to sunlight and persiperation

MAN MADE FIBERS

STEPS
Dope preparation Extrusion through spinneret Solidification

Spinning process
Melt-viscose, acrylic, spandex Dry-acrylic, acetate Wet spinning-nylon, polyester, olefin

Modification in MMF
Fibre size, surface, x-section Molecular structure, crystallinity Additives Modification in spinning process

Contrast b/w Natural & MMF

AREA Production Quality Uniformity Physical structure Chemical composition properties length absorbency heat sensitivity NATURAL no control depends depends on quality inbuilt inbuilt uncontrolled definite more less MMF controlled consistant consistant controlled controlled controlled any length very less more

COMMON PROPERTIES TO SYNTHETIC FIBERS

High heat sensitivity Resistant to most of the chemicals Resistant to moth and fungi Low absorbency Oleophilic Good to excellent abrasion resistant Strength good to excellent Excellent resiliency Sunlight resistant good to Dry quickly excellent Lack of comfort in humid Flame resistant poor climate More static charge build- No pilling
up Water does not cause shrinkage Difficult to dye

 Regenerated, cellulosic, filament, man made Rayon is a manufactured regenerated cellulosic fiber. serrated round shape with smooth surface. it loses 30-50% of its strength when it is wet. regenerated cellulosic fiber. artificial silk two principal varieties
viscose and cupra ammonium rayon.

RAYON

Properties
Highly absorbent
Soft, comfortable and easy to dye

Good drape Aesthetic

Can be controlled Soft drape

Strength
Weak fibre Low dry strength than cotton Weaker when wet Elongation more than cotton Low ER

 Comfort
MR 11%

Low resiliency Care

s/b dry cleaned Harmed by acid Resistant to dilute alkali Attacked by silverfish & mildew Not harmed by sunlight

ACETATE
Modified regenerated, cellulosic, filament MMF A manufactured fiber in which the fiber forming substance is cellulose acetate. Cellulose + acetic acid Beauty fibre X-section lobular or flower petal shaped Longitudinal lines

Properties:
Aesthetic

Appearance retention
Can shrink by excess heat Low ER

Beauty fibre Used where lustre, body and Care beauty of fabric is important s/b dry cleaned Resistant to weal acids and Durability alkalis Weak fibre Difficult to heat set Low wet strength Better sunlight resistant than Poor AR silk Resistant to moth, mildew and bacteria

Comfort

Uses
Lining fabric Draperies, bed spread, quilts Formal wear

MR 6-6.5% Subject to static build up

MAN MADE SYNTHETIC FIBRE

POLYESTER, NYLON ARAMID, ACRYLIC MODACRYLIC, SPANDEX OLEFIN, VINYON ANEDEX ARAMID AZLON SULFAX LYCRA

 POLYESTER
The term "polyester" is most commonly used to refer to polyethylene terephthalate (PET). high melting temperature dyed with only disperse dyes they are thermoplastic, have good strength and are hydrophobic the fibre has a rod like shape with a smooth surface. it is lustrous and its hand is crisp. it has excellent resiliency and is the best wash and wear fabric. there are problems of static MR 0.4-0.8%

NYLON
Synthetic, filament MMF Polyamide fibre X-section round Longitudinal regular and uniform

 Aesthetic
Smooth and light in wt. Pleasant luster Drape can vary

Durability
Very strong Excellent AR Excellent ER
(100% @ 8%) (91% @ 16%)

Weakened in sunlight

Comfort
Low absorbency but highest in synthetic Nylon 6, 6 4% Nylon 6 2.8 to 5% Static charge build up at low humidity

 Appearance
Highly resilient and wrinkle resistant Can be permanently shaped

Care
Easy care fabric, dries quickly Good resistant to alkalis and Cl bleach but is damaged by strong acids Resistant to moth and mildew Low resistant to sunlight

Uses
Carpets, sportswear, rope, parachutes, umbrella, bags, tents, etc.

ACRYLIC
Made from ACRYLONITRILE Dry (dissolved in dimethyle tormomide) or wet spinning X-section
Dry spinning Wet dog bone bean

Aesthetic
Imitates wool successfully Soft hand Matte luster

 Durability
MR 1-2.5% Good wicking

Appearance retention
Moderate resiliency dimensional stability Shrink in boiling water

Care
Good resistant to most chemicals except strong alkalis and Cl bleach Resistant to moth and mildew Excellent resistant to sunlight

Uses
Sweaters, socks, upholstery, blanket, carpet, rugs

Thank you

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