ORNAMENTATION

IN
SELVEDGE
By
Sanyam Chhajed (Final TT)
Roll no. 02
 CONTENTS
SR.NO. INDEX
1 INTRODUCTION TO SELVEDGE
2 REQUIREMENT OF SELVEDGE
3 TYPES OF SELVEDGE
4 ORNAMENTATION IN CONVENTIONAL SELVEDGE
5 ORNAMENTATION IN UNCONVENTIONAL SELVEDGE
6 MONOGRAM
7 CONCLUSION
8 REFERENCES
INTRODUCTION TO SELVEDGE

 A selvedge is a "self-finished" edge of fabric, keeping it

from unraveling and fraying. The term "self-finished" means
that the edge does not require additional finishing work,
such as hem or bias tape, to prevent fraying and use since
the 16th century.
 In woven fabric, selvedges are the edges that run parallel to
the warp, and are created by the weft thread looping back at
the end of each row.

Fabric without selvedge??

FABRIC WITHOUT SELVEDGE??

Requirement of selvedges
REQUIREMENT OF SELVEDGE

 The basic function of any selvedge is to lock the outside warp

threads of a piece of cloth and so prevent fraying.
 To prevent weft contraction of fabric.
 To provide extra strength at the edges of the fabric so that they can
withstand the tensile & gripping forces during transportation
through machines.
 To provide end capable of withstanding of greater abrasion by the
reed occurring at the edges of the warp
 To provide space for ornamentation as in saree or dhoti
identification.
Type of selvedges
TYPES OF SELVEDGE

There are three different types of selvedge produced by different

sorts of looms:
 True selvedge: created with shuttle loom from the same warp
yarns and weave as the fabric body, but with higher number of
warps per inch.
 Fringed selvedge: created from cutting weft yarns on a shuttleless
loom. To prevent unravelling, either leno weave is used or the ends
are tucked back into fabric. (tuck-in selvedge)
 Fused selvedge: can be used when fabric has higher percent of
thermoplastic fiber (polyester or nylon). The edges of the fabric
are heated, causing the fiber's to melt and fuse together. Fused
selvedge is harsh and stiff. Plain selvedge
 TRUE SELVEDGE

 In shuttle looms, there is no need for special selvedge; since the

yarn is not cut after each weft insertion, the edges of the fabric
are smooth and strong.
 On conventional shuttle looms, it is formed when the weft yarns
turns to go back across the fabric. The conventional loom makes
the same kind of selvedge on both sides of the fabric.
 In hand weaving the selvage is generally the same thickness as
the rest of the cloth, and the pattern may or may not continue all
the way to the edge, thus the selvage may or may not be
patterned. A plain weave selvage is the other option, where the
True selvedge last few threads on either side are woven in plain weave.
(Shuttle loom) Fringed selvedge
 FRINGED SELVEDGE
 Leno Selvedge :-  Leno selvedges are generated by extra warp threads
supplied from spools.
 Leno construction involves twisting a pair of warp
threads around each other whereby one of the threads
always floats above the interlacing weft thread while
the other floats under.
 A rotating discs carries the spools and are suitably
mounted atop healds in such a way that threads can
land directly at the respective selvedges.
 When the discs are rotated every pick through
Fringed Leno Selvedge 3600 then a double locked leno results which grips
relatively smooth weft threads fairly tightly while a
disc rotation through 1800 can be sufficient for usual
spun threads. Tuck-in Selvedge
 Tuck-in Selvedge :-
 The tucked selvedge is a technique used on some
shuttleless looms. Tuck-in needle is used to tuck and hold
the cut ends into the fabric edge.
 In tucked-in selvedge, the fringed edges of the weft
yarns are woven back into the body of the fabric using a
special tuck-in mechanism.
 As a result, the weft density is doubled in the selvedge
area.
 The tucked-in selvedge was being only used for projectile
weaving machines in the past; however, it is now also
applied to other shuttleless weaving machines.
Ornamentation
 ORNAMENTATION IN CONVENTIONAL SELVEDGE

 A thread of strong monofilament yarn or a length of

flexible wire is used as the catch cord.
 This thread, which is fastened to a point on the frame at
the back of the loom, changes its position after each pick.
However, it extends for only 1-2 cm into the fabric.
 As the cloth is drawn forward, it will slide off the thread
to leave a small loop of weft at the side of the fabric, but
there will not be an increase in thickness.

Small loop of weft at

the edge of the fabric
Sample
ORNAMENTED CONVENTIONAL SELVEDGE
PRODUCED LOCALLY
 Generally, Ichalkaranji is famous for its Dhoti and cotton saree
manufacturing, which are produced on plain power looms .
 Fabric like dhoti and saree cannot be ornamented by any design, plain
design is mostly preferred.
 Apparel like dhoti and cotton saree are ornamented by its
selvedge(borders).
 External device(local made dobby) is present at both the end of the fabric.
 Extra colored or filament threads are externally provided through bobbins
to the selvage design.
 Dhoti comes in many borders - Kalcutta border also used in pooja in
temples, some local named border as nakshi, bugdi, century, etc.
Shuttleless
ORNAMENTATION IN UNCONVENTIONAL SELVEDGE

 It is employed in the loom like rapier, air jet, projectile

weaving(shuttleless loom).
 Garment oriented fabrics are mostly produced on shuttleless loom
where the fabric is ornamented with verity of designs.
 Fabric produced on shuttleless loom are produced with high speed
and thus required strong selvage.
 These selvedge in garment section get either cut or are hidden and
stitch in the inner section of the garment.
 Ornamented selvedge on shuttleless loom is used as an branding of
company and logo.
 External device monogram is used on the shuttleless loom for the
ornamented selvedge. Monogram
 MONOGRAM
 It is an electric jacquard machine particularly suitable for weaving in custom
labelling and branding of company on selvedges of the fabrics in wide variety of
applications.
 The monogram is mounted on shuttle-less weaving machine.
 The jacquard machine controls each warp threads separately and individually.
 The jacquard machine have its own drive with no mechanical link and is
electrically synchronized.
 The advantages of monogram is its simplicity and flexibility of use.
 User friendly programming and control.
 HAVE YOU EVER THOUGHT..??

 How much amount of selvedge goes as an

waste..??
 We all wear shirt, pent, jeans, dresses, etc. have
you ever seen the selvedge in your apparels ??
 The selvedge get cut in garment section and goes
as an waste.
 What can be do with the waste selvedge..??
 Creativity with waste selvedge….
Waste selvedge

Continue…
CREATIVTIY WITH SELVEDGE

Don’t Scrap The Selvedge

CONCLUSION

 For shuttle looms - Apparel like dhoti and cotton saree are
ornamented by its selvedge(borders).
 For shuttleless looms - Ornamented selvedge are used as an
branding and labeling of company and logo.
 Ornamentation and pattern making of selvedge is mostly done
on plain power looms as the speed is slow and external devices
can be adjusted.
 With some creativity ideas of craft bloggers the waste
selvedges can be reused in innovative home applications.
REFERENCES

 PRINCIPLES OF WEAVING By R.Marks, F.T.I. and A.T.C.

Robinsin, M.Sc.Tech, F.T.I.
 ADVANCED TEXTILE DESGIN By William Watson.
 https://www.staubli.com/en-in/textile/textile-machinery-
solutions/jacquard-weaving/cx-172-cx-182
 Visit to Shri Ram crop.
 Visit to Rajesh Baldi-Monogram sample
 Visit to Mahendra Industries.
 http://cre8fmomquilts.blogspot.com