FASHION SUBCULTURES
By Kishkindha
FD-6
Rocker
ORIGIN
• Rockers, leather boys, Ton-up boys, café racers - members of
a biker subculture
• Originated in the United Kingdom during the 1950s
• Mainly centred on British café racer motorcycles and rock 'n' roll
music
• By 1965, the term greaser also been introduced to Great Britain
• The terms greaser and rocker- synonymous within the British Isles
• Rockers also known as Coffee Bar Cowboys
• Their Japanese counterpart -called the Kaminari-Zoku (Thunder
Tribe/Clan/Group, or Thunderers)
IDEOLOGIES, ATTITUDES AND
BELIEFS
• Projecting
• Nomadic romanticism
• Violence
• Anti-authoritarianism and anti- domesticity
• Aggressive
EVOLUTION
• Until the post-war period motorcycling held a prestigious position and enjoyed a
positive image in British society
• Associated with wealth and glamour
• 1950s- middle class bought inexpensive motorcars
• Motorcycles became transport for the poor
• The rocker subculture came about due to factors such as:
• The end of post-war rationing in the UK
• A general rise in prosperity for working class youths
• The recent availability of credit and financing for young people
• The influence of American popular music and films
• The construction of race track-like arterial roads around British cities
• The development of transport cafes and a peak in British motorcycle
engineering
• The name “rocker” came not from music, but from the rockers found in 4-
stroke engines, as opposed to the two stroke engines used by scooters and
ridden by mods
CHARACTERISTICS
• Use of skull and crossbone-type symbolism
• Heavily decorated leather motorcycle jackets, often adorned with metal
studs, patches, pin badges and sometimes an Esso gas man trinket
• T-shirts
• Leather caps
• Levi's or Wrangler jeans
• Leather trousers
• Tall motorcycle boots
• Long hair in black or bright colours
IMPACT ON FASHION 2018
• This decade’s fashion trends have been described as the ultimate Rock ‘n
Roll blowout. Hitting the catwalks are influences from each decade, some
combined in a single piece of fabric. Leather and studs share space with
plaid fabrics and ripped jeans, while hair is back to being long but dead
straight
CELEBRITIES
ZADIG & VOLTAIRE 2015
BRANDS
SAVILLE ROW
ABOUT
• Savile Row tailoring is traditional and modern, men and women's
bespoke tailoring that takes place on Savile Row and neighbouring streets
in Mayfair, Central London
LOCATION
• Savile Row runs parallel to Regent Street between Conduit Street at the
northern end and Vigo Street at the southern. Linking roads include New
Burlington Place, New Burlington Street, Boyle Street, and Clifford Street.
FOUNDERS
1. Anderson & Sheppard
2. Dege & Skinner
3. Gieves & Hawkes
4. Henry Poole
TAILORING
• Tailoring associated with Savile Row since the 19th century
• Beau Brummell- epitomised the well-dressed man, patronised the tailors
congregated on the Burlington Estate
• Savile Row Bespoke Association- founded in 2004
1. to protect
2. to develop bespoke tailoring as practiced in Savile Row and the
surrounding streets
• Member tailors- required to put at least 50 hours of hand labour into each
two-piece suit
BESPOKE SUITS
• Suit that is cut and then made by hand
• The hand cutting means that an individual paper pattern is made for
the customer and refined over several fittings, enabling a superiority
of fit that cannot be achieved by anything ready-to-wear or made-to-
measure
• The hand making has both functional and aesthetic benefits.
• Functionally, it enables the tailor to shape the jacket and its structure
around the customer, creating a three-dimensional shape
• Aesthetically, it creates a fineness and delicacy of stitching that
subtly elevates it above anything made by a machine
PRICE RANGE
• Prices for a bespoke suit start at £3,000 to £4,000 including VAT for the
more famous names and can go up £10,000 for very exclusive materials
FITS
• Single-Breasted
1. Beauty First is the popular two
button single-breasted suit, with
side vents. This classy coat choice
is best for day-to-day wear
company clothes or official
engagement dressing
• One Button Design
1. Loosened up dressing with style
and elegance sums up the one
button design fit. The meet coat
has actually a loosened up
organized form, level lapel with
extreme decrease opening and
side vents. A singular button
offers easy wear
• Three-Piece
1. Dressing The traditional
investment statement
item, the 3 piece suit has
just recently undergone a
popularity surge with a
new generation of well
dressed gentlemen
proudly flaunting their
brand-new discovered
style on the streets. The
sophisticated suit features
an unique tailored
waistcoat for extra
elegance
DIFFERENT CUTS
• The Traditional Cut
The first is the oldest, the most
traditional and the closest to most
military tailoring. It is characterised
by a strong shoulder, a chest that
fits close to the body, a nipped waist
and a relatively long jacket that
flares slightly at the bottom. It is
very flattering, and will make you
stand up like a soldier.
It is seen on the likes of Huntsman,
Richard James and Dege & Skinner.
• The Drape Cut
This has a softer shoulder, but creates
the impression of strength by cutting the
shoulder a little wider, and using a little
excess fabric in the chest and back. It
also tends to have a larger sleeve, and
this makes it the most comfortable of
the cuts, albeit not the sharpest
• The Exaggerated Cut
The third is far more modern, and
has its origins with Tommy Nutter
in the 1960s and 1970s. Nutter
changed the way men looked at
Savile Row, dressing The Beatles
(including on the Abbey Road cover)
and Mick Jagger (including Mick
and Bianca for their wedding day),
while retaining the craft of Savile
Row. Followers of his tend to cut
jackets with larger, even upturned
shoulders, lots of structure and
exaggerated lapels.
SAVILE ROW HOUSES
Gieves & Hawkes
Huntsman
Anderson & Sheppard Henry Poole & Co
Chittleborough & Morgan Richard Anderson
Dege & Skinner
Richard James
BIBLIOGRAPHY
• https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rocker_(subculture)
• https://wikivisually.com/wiki/Rocker_(subculture)
• http://enacademic.com/dic.nsf/enwiki/631090
• https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Savile_Row_tailoring
• http://www.elegant-lifestyle.com/savile-row-suit-tailors.htm
• https://www.fashionbeans.com/article/complete-guide-to-savile-row/
