Training Module for
Finishing Checkers In
A Garment Factory
Copyright-ATDC Pro-Up, NHO, Gurgaon
QUALITY: IN GARMENT INDUSTRY
Project analysis
For every industry slide
or business, to get 8
increased sales and better
name amongst consumers and fellow companies it is important
to maintain a level of quality. 01 Overall look of Garment
The quality control process is practiced right from the initial 02 Right Garment
stage of sourcing raw materials to the stage of final finished formation
garment.
03 Feel & Fall of Garment
For textile and apparel industry product quality is calculated in
terms of quality and standard of fibers, yarns, fabric 04 Garment colorfastness
construction, color fastness, surface designs and the final
finished garment products. However quality expectations for
export are related to the type of customer segments and the 05 Finishing properties
retail outlets.
Presentation of
06 produced garment
There are a number of factors on which quality fitness of
garment industry is based such as performance, reliability,
durability, visual and perceived quality of the garment.
Copyright-ATDC Pro-Up, NHO, Gurgaon
QUALITY DEFECTS: IN GARMENT INDUSTRY
Project analysis
There are certain slide
quality related problems 8 manufacturing that should not be over looked:
in garment
Sewing defects Sizing defects Garment defects
Like open seams, wrong stitching Wrong gradation of sizes, During manufacturing process defects could
techniques used, same color garment, difference in measurement of occur like faulty zippers, irregular hemming,
but usage of different color threads a garment part from other, for loose buttons, raw edges, improper
on the garment, miss out of stitches example- sleeves buttonholes, uneven parts, inappropriate
in between, creasing of the garment, trimming, and difference in fabric colors.
erroneous thread tension and raw Difference of the color of final produced
edges are some sewing defects that garment to the sample shown. Accessories
could occur so should be taken care used are of wrong color combination
of. Mismatching of dye amongst the pieces.
Copyright-ATDC Pro-Up, NHO, Gurgaon
QUALITY ON SHOP FLOOR: DHU
Project analysis slide 8
In garment production shop floor,
quality checking stations are set for
In checking, quality checker
detects defects in garments and
stopping defects at the source and separate defective garments
stopping defective garment passing from good pieces.
to the following processes. .
Normally, checking is done for
raw materials, partially stitched
garments, stitched garments and
finished garments by quality
checkers..
Copyright-ATDC Pro-Up, NHO, Gurgaon
QUALITY ON SHOP FLOOR: DHU
Project analysis slide 8
Where there is established quality
system, quality checker records the total
Quality checking records
are summarized and the
number of defects found in the result is presented in
garments checked by her/him in a day
DHU
and also she/he records the number of
defective garments where those defects
are found.
DHU stands for Defect per Hundred Units. It means
a number of defects found or detected per 100
garments. This is also known as DPHU (Defects Per
Hundred Units).
Defects per hundred units = (Total defects found *
100)/Total garments inspected
Copyright-ATDC Pro-Up, NHO, Gurgaon
DHU: ANALYSIS PROCESS
Project analysis slide 8
• Where the stitch line runs off the edge of the seam and the edge of the seam is not properly
stitched, the defect is termed as Run-off Stitch
• Run off stitch is one of the major defects that occur while garment stitching.
Defect Cause Causes Measures
Type
Machine/ Faulty feed dog Replace feed
Equipment dog/check
positioning
Material Inappropriate thread Replace by
Run off appropriate
thread
Man Unskilled operator, Training session
Non-aligned plies
Method SPI not suitable, Appropriate
incorrect sewing tension in the
thread tension sewing thread
Copyright-ATDC Pro-Up, NHO, Gurgaon
DHU ANALYSIS: AN EXAMPLE
Project analysis slide 8
Solution for Run-off:
• Check to make sure the folder or guide
used to make the seam is the proper
capacity for the fabric being sewn.
• Observe the sewing operator for proper
handling techniques during sewing
Ishikawa/Fishbone diagram for Run-off Defect
Copyright-ATDC Pro-Up, NHO, Gurgaon
ROOT CAUSE ANALYSIS USING FISHBONE & ISHIKAWA DIAGRAM
Project analysis slide 8
Practical Exercise: Candidates will be taught how to prepare a Fishbone/Ishikawa diagram for a problem and how to do a root cause analysis
Copyright-ATDC Pro-Up, NHO, Gurgaon
FINISHING CHECKERS IN A GARMENT
FACTORY
• In the apparel industry, the finishing
department is the final stage of garment
manufacturing where the assembled garment
is made ready for dispatch.
• After stitching, the sewn garments are passed
through the finishing department for
identification of defects, measurement check,
inspection, ironing, initial folding until it is Measurement checkers
Initial and final checkers
sent off to the packing section.
• The finishing department consists of the
following types of checkers:
Copyright-ATDC Pro-Up, NHO, Gurgaon Quality control/ auditors
Methods to Inspect the Garments?
• Checkers and auditors inspect garments at the end of a line, in finishing and in various audit stages.
• An effective inspection procedure help to increase the quality of the inspection job as well as productivity.
Garment inspection in
Garment inspection inside out direction
clockwise direction
Copyright-ATDC Pro-Up, NHO, Gurgaon
Clockwise direction Checking Method
• Garment inspection should be done in clockwise direction as shown below:
Pick up by shoulder points. Fold top forward at
Check front & back Lie flat on table. Examine shoulders.
appearance & presentation styling details.
Examine back neck.
is correct..
Examine inside and outside
Lie flat on table. Examine of collar /neck.
styling details. Examine inside shoulder
seam
Copyright-ATDC Pro-Up, NHO, Gurgaon
Clockwise direction Checking Method
10
6 8
Examine left shoulder Examine left sleeve
cuff inside & out.. Examine bottom hem inside
and armhole seam.
and out,front & back.
7 9
Fold sleeve across front of
garment ,examine back left Examine left underarm seam &
armhole. Check for left side seam. Check care
shading. label..
Clockwise direction Checking Method
11 13 15
Fold sleeve across front
of garment.
Examine right side Examine back right Turn garment over. Examine styling
seam & right armhole, check for details & any unchecked seams on
underarm.. shading.. back.
12 14
Examine right armhole seam
Examine right sleeve cuff inside
and shoulder seam.
and out.
Garment inspection method inside out direction
Copyright-ATDC Pro-Up, NHO, Gurgaon
AQL Awareness
Copyright-ATDC Pro-Up, NHO, Gurgaon
What is Acceptable Quality Level (AQL)
Most used terms in readymade garments industry when it comes in
consideration to quality.
Most of the acceptance decisions of garment export order shipments are made
on the basis of AQL based sampling plans
The AQL is the maximum % defective that for the purpose of sampling
inspection, can be considered satisfactory as a process average.
The AQL is generally expressed in %.
Copyright-ATDC Pro-Up, NHO, Gurgaon
AQL Category
A
Q
L AQL
4
2.
5 AQL
o Low price items —6.5 & 10.0 AQL
6.5
o High price items - 2.5 & 4.0 AQL
AQL
10.0
Copyright-ATDC Pro-Up, NHO, Gurgaon
How to Read AQL table?
Example:
-Suppose you have been offered a shipment of
1000 pieces for inspection.
-Select the range from the table, it is 501-1200.
-Now from the AQL table, you need to select the
number of samples you are going to actually
inspect. According to the above AQL chart, you
need to select 80 pieces out of 1000 pieces.
-Now assume that you are inspecting at 2.5 AQL.
-So, after inspecting all 80 pieces if you found 5 or
less than 5 defective pieces, you need to accept
the shipment. And if you find 6 or more than 6
defective pieces in 80 samples, you need to reject
that shipment.
AQL Chart Sample
Copyright-ATDC Pro-Up, NHO, Gurgaon
U
A
L
I
T
Y Copyright-ATDC Pro-Up, NHO, Gurgaon
Objective
• To improve first time through yield by
reducing DHU% of production floor
• Focusing on production of defect-free
products.
• To improve quality level of the
product.
• To reduce rework and rejection of the
product.
• To reduce the cost of poor quality
Copyright-ATDC Pro-Up, NHO, Gurgaon
First time through yield – FTT Quality in Apparel Manufacturing
• First time through production is one of the KPIs for garment manufacturing.
• First time through yield or FTT as it may sometimes be referred to is a
measure of production efficiency, ability/skill, and quality.
• It measures how many goods are produced correctly without flaws or re-
work as percentage of total units produced in a production process or value
stream.
• FTT is another measure of quality performance of a plant. By measuring
RFT, a garment factory can figure out the quality level of the production
process.
The formula for RFT production%
RFT = (First time passed units *100)/Total production units.
Example of RFT:
Production quantity = 400
First time passed quantity= 380 Rejected Garments
= (380/400)*100 = 95% Copyright-ATDC Pro-Up, NHO, Gurgaon
Benefits
Project
• The benefits analysis slide
of applying this method in the2
company are the following:
• To improve first time through yield by reducing DHU% of
every department.
• Improve quality level of the product.
T • Focusing on production & defect-free products.
F T
• Help to reduction of rework and rejection of the product.
• Increased capacity & productivity quality to customer.
Copyright-ATDC Pro-Up, NHO, Gurgaon
How it works (Traffic LIGHT system)
Traffic light system in Sewing Line
Defect Color Traffic Light Action Required
Found Code Audit
None Green Once/Hr None Piece10
Piece 2789
3156
4
Operator
Piece
Piece
One yellow Twice/Hr Inform operator,
Supervisor ,
Quality In charge
& PM
Tow or Red Thrice/Hr 1-Show the correct 5
NO
Q.C
Q.C Table
2 DEFECT
Table
DEFECT Roaming Q.C
More method to
operator.
2-Involve the
mechanic to solve
m/c problem.
3-If operator can’t
reach the quality
level-Change the
operator.
4- If M/C trouble
can’t solved , need
to replace the m/c.
Copyright-ATDC Pro-Up, NHO, Gurgaon GREEN YELLOW RED
Implementation of TLS
Implementation of Color Flag Implementation of TLS Sheet
Traffic light system format
Implementation of TLS Sheet & Flag
Mockup preparation for critical operation
• Developed 2D &3D mock of the critical operations for the operators to clearly what to do that particular operation.
• Mockups have to be prepared by the technical dept. with the involvement of quality and I.E. dept.
• These mockups have to be approved by the Q.A manager to introduce to the sewing line .
• Mockups and the instruction sheet have to be hung at the m/c.
• In case of any confusion they can refer to mock and not need to ask Q.C for the operation.
Thank You
Copyright-ATDC Pro-Up, NHO, Gurgaon
