Bandra Born’s 2024 pop-up was so successful, it went permanent, won awards, and got a makeover worthy of its triumphs. Graffiti gave way to patterned glass windows, turning the headlights of every passing car on the blaring Bandra street outside into shooting starbursts. The soundtrack is solid ’90s, and both bar counters draw huddlers seeking mahura flower Negronis.

They pump out dishes inspired by the chef’s childhood, and flavors from the communities that shaped the western suburb. Downright delicious experimentation defines the long, ever-changing list of shareable plates. Settle into one of the three stacked rooms for the duck stroopwafel, a crunchy candied meat sandwich; silky blackened leeks; and roasted bone marrow chilli cheese toast with habanero. The king cabbage is slow-cooked until it resembles steak, finished with brown butter, and served in its own jus. Everyone haggles for the last bite. We want to shout the whole menu, but we’ll just say to get here with a big group and try everything.