After closing and relocating, the tasting menu restaurant Atelier has reopened in Lincoln Square—“very softly,” as our server put it. But though their multi-course menu is still loading, this American spot's new à la carte line-up is less of a whisper and more a fun and exclamatory, “We’re Back.” And the upgraded space is bigger, with a front bar area and a back dining room by the open kitchen. The complex, tweezered bites are excellent, like linguini in mushroom conserva with raisins and granola, or a playful “bacon and eggs” that’s a potato pavé with egg sabayon, sturgeon bacon, and caviar. But even straightforward corn fritters or patty melts are tasty, thanks to punchy dips like huitlacoche comeback sauce or fermented tomato-pepper jam. Atelier’s tasting menu and beverage program will return soon (they’re BYOB), but the current bar menu already warrants a visit.