John Ringor
Staff Writer, Chicago
John grew up in Albany Park and likes to play the xylophone when he isn’t busy eating and filling his camera roll with videos of pasta twirls.
CHIReview
After closing and relocating, the tasting menu restaurant Atelier has reopened in Lincoln Square—“very softly,” as our server put it. But though their multi-course menu is still loading, this American spot's new à la carte line-up is less of a whisper and more a fun and exclamatory, “We’re Back.” And the upgraded space is bigger, with a front bar area and a back dining room by the open kitchen. The complex, tweezered bites are excellent, like linguini in mushroom conserva with raisins and granola, or a playful “bacon and eggs” that’s a potato pavé with egg sabayon, sturgeon bacon, and caviar. But even straightforward corn fritters or patty melts are tasty, thanks to punchy dips like huitlacoche comeback sauce or fermented tomato-pepper jam. Atelier’s tasting menu and beverage program will return soon (they’re BYOB), but the current bar menu already warrants a visit.
Unrated: This is a restaurant we want to re-visit before rating, or it’s a coffee shop, bar, or dessert shop. We only rate spots where you can eat a full meal.