Matilda is ideal for a night when the food isn’t really the point. Not because the Mexican-Peruvian dishes aren’t good (they are), but the real appeal of this restaurant in River North is that it’s loud and lovely. Charming servers make sure glasses stay full, and the people drinking said glasses seem happy enough to hang somewhere busy, waving around tostadas for emphasis while they defend their conspiracy theory that the purpose of the lottery is to trap time travelers.

Like most restaurants where friends go for a good time, Matilda’s menu lands firmly in “share plates” territory. And despite the cuisine crossover, the Mexican-Peruvian food isn’t so much fusion as it is a smattering of tacos and guacamole alongside ceviches with choclo and leche de tigre. Fun, snacky bites have unexpected touches, as small plates tend to. Fortunately, these flairs lean more “oh that’s nice, I like that” than “oh, how…creative.” A crispy cheese crust on the carne asada taco reminds us why Extra Toasty Cheez-Its exist, and you’ll have a nice time fishing for caramelized pear in the scallop aguachile’s thick lychee ponzu broth. 

photo credit: Kim Kovacik

But, as previously mentioned, the point is the fun. And at Matilda, fun equals loud. If you’re not into the idea of shout-chatting with the person across from you, you’ll never stand a chance. (The concrete-looking, curved walls look good but don’t help.) Alternatively, if you’re a person who plans dates, post-work get-togethers, and dinner before going out, this small-talk-central spot is just what you're looking for.

Food Rundown

Tuna Tartare

A solid tartare that comes with blue corn tostadas on the side. The fried shallots on top are a nice touch that keeps this dish from joining the endless procession of faceless tuna tartares on menus everywhere.

Scallop Aguachile

This is a delight. Scallops and caramelized pear hide in a thick and lychee ponzu sauce that has just enough heat to balance the sweetness.

photo credit: Kim Kovacik

Carne Asada Taco

The steak is bland, but the rest of the taco makes up for it. It’s covered in a generous amount of salsa verde and the tortilla has a layer of crisped-up cheese that delivers the same satisfaction of an Extra Toasty Cheez-it, which everyone knows is the superior Cheez-it.

photo credit: Kim Kovacik

Tinga

You’ll find this in the “guisos” portion of the menu, which all come with black beans, handmade tortillas, and a too-small portion of very hot salsa. The stewed chicken is the best of the bunch. The chipotle sauce it's braised in is nice and smoky, and the meat stays juicy.

Cochinita Pibil

Another of the guisos. While we really enjoy the flavor of the tangy achiote braised pork, it’s a little dry.

Chorizo & Plantain Taco

The best taco here. The sweet plantains are caramelized and kept in check by salty chorizo.

Elote Quemado

There are two desserts on the menu, and this is the one to order. It’s a little corn cake covered in corn foam, and has a bruleed crust that you’ll discover after saying “oh yay, foam.”

photo credit: Kim Kovacik