A dinner at Koan will make you wonder why Korean and Danish ingredients and techniques aren't paired more often. The 17-course menu starts with an oyster, gamtae seaweed, and chilled lobster noodles before ramping up to a kwabaegi—a pillowy Korean donut served with a blob of creamy Danish butter on the side—and gamasot-steamed rice served with fjord shrimps. It's like an autobiography, in food form, of a chef who was born in Korea and grew up in Denmark. We also love the warehouse-like space with soaring ceilings and warm wooden tables and chairs. It's just right for a birthday or celebration, though reservations aren't easy to get. Start trying weeks in advance.