RMEGuide

The Best Restaurants In Rome

Classic trattorias, fantastic pasta, and where to carb-load in the capital.
Spread of dishes and white wine on white tablecloth at Pecorino

photo credit: Maela Bonafede

Rome is famously chaotic, and a fascinating mix of very old-meets-very-new: you’ll find wifi hotspots at ancient monuments, over 900 churches and nearly as many electric Bird scooters, and an Apple store in the historic Palazzo Marignoli, frescos intact. The Roman food scene reflects this same tangle of ancient and modern. 

Romans, and Italians more generally, are very particular about how they eat. Breakfast is fast and sweet and taken at the bar of a cafe. Lunch really can be the long, multi-course feast that you’ve seen in the movies, especially on weekends, and dinner is late by US standards, with many places not even opening until 8pm.

When dining in Rome, here are a few rules to follow: Try at least one (or all) of the renowned pasta dishes—cacio e pepe, gricia, carbonara, and amatriciana. Don’t leave without sampling supplì, fried baccalà, pizza, and other iconic foods. Allocate one breakfast for a maritozzo and other pastries. And treat yourself to gelato as often as possible.

THE SPOTS

Via Alessandro Severo 222, Rome, Latium 00145

$$$$

Italian

Ostiense

Perfect For:Eating At The BarDrinking Great Wine

Some people ride or die for carbonara, or think cacio e pepe is the pinnacle of Roman cooking. But for us, Trecca shows it’s all about the quinto quarto, or what’s known as offal, the discarded animal parts that are “I can’t believe I’m eating this and actually enjoying it” kind of delicious. When it's on the menu, their regaje di pollo e patate is the perfect example—lusciously tender chicken innards sauteed with rosemary and white wine, served in a pan alongside small cubes of the crispiest potatoes you’ll ever taste. Or their rigatoni alla pajata, which might just make you suddenly crave milk-fed veal intestines. We love coming solo to sit at the bar and chat with the chef), or with friends to sit outside during the summer. Just know Trecca is a bit outside the city—four metro stops from the Colosseum, about a 15-minute taxi ride—but it’s worth the commute.

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Saghar Setareh

Capo Boi serves arguably the best seafood in all of Rome, but that’s just one of the reasons you should have dinner here. On paper, it seems like it might be stuffy: the upscale restaurant is located in Parioli, one of Rome’s most elegant districts. But the atmosphere is more relaxed, like attending a dinner party hosted by your fun uncle who owns a megayacht (but doesn’t tell anyone). You’ll find starters like paper-thin pane carasau, a crackly Sardinian flatbread, topped with thin shavings of salty bottarga, alongside platters of raw seafood. There are equally delicious entrees, like large, tender filets of salt-baked fish, set on fire before being served by your waiter who may or may not have just burned his eyebrows off. Come with a big group so you can devour as much seafood as possible.

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Maela Bonafede

Armando Al Pantheon has been serving straightforward classics throughout its six decades of family ownership. Come here for simple and excellent Roman food, including fantastic amatriciana made with rigatoni and a sublime spaghetti alla carbonara. You can get a half-portion of pasta if you want to save some room for a second course, like the saltimbocca alla romana or the tripe cooked in tomato with pecorino cheese. Just make sure to book your visit in advance—Armando Al Pantheon is closed on Sundays and remains one of the toughest reservations to get last minute.

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Saghar Setareh

Spread of pasta dishes and wine at Armando al Pantheon

You may finish your lunch at La Tavernaccia Da Bruno and walk out wondering “What year is it?” Or more importantly, “When can I move in?” You’ll be at this Trastevere spot for a long time, not only because their hefty wine list reads like a novel, but because they serve comfort food so good, you simply won’t want to leave. It’s one of the best places to try some of Italy’s greatest hits, like cheesy eggplant parmigiana, hearty coda alla vaccinara, and thick slices of oven-roasted maialino, a.k.a. suckling pig. On Sundays, though, their five-layered lasagna with its crisp edges is a must-try. And save room for whatever the dessert of the day is, especially if it’s the perfectly moist and chocolatey torta caprese.

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Saghar Setareh

Walking into Dal Toscano, you're immediately greeted by a refrigerator displaying colossal cuts of Florentine steak. But the phrase “looks can be deceiving” can apply to restaurants, too, because Dal Toscano's pasta is just as much a highlight as the meat. Go to town on their silky fettuccine bathed in an earthy white ragù and parmesan, as well as their thick and chewy pici noodles coated in a red sauce packed with aglione, palm-of-your-hand sized garlic that’s milder despite its size. Then, as any normal person would do, opt for the kilo bistecca alla fiorentina (and some house Chianti, of course).

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Maela Bonafede

The Roscioli name is legendary in Rome, and out of all their spots, Antico Forno Roscioli is the standout. This must-visit bakery turns out fresh-from-the-oven pizza, crispy supplì, and an irresistible selection of baked goods, from crusty loaves to rustic pastries. Don’t miss the pizza rossa or the pizza con patate, taken to the next level with freshly sliced porchetta. Before you leave, grab a bag of ciambelline—perfect for dipping in wine or coffee—or a slice of ricotta chocolate chip crostata for later.

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Maela Bonafede

The seafood spaghetti at Da Dante is so extraordinary, it might just ruin all other pasta (which is a feat, especially in Rome). It features silky noodles glistening with garlic and chili-infused oil, all tossed with the sweetest, briniest clams. The balance of heat, salinity, and oil here is simply unmatched. Needless to say, this dish provides some prime scarpetta conditions for mopping up every last bit. It's another place that seems fancy up front (more crisp white tablecloths and waiters in starched button-downs), but when you hear the staff’s passionate outbursts in reaction to the soccer game, you’ll know Dante’s is anything but stuffy.

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Maela Bonafede

You should have your last meal in Rome at Trattoria da Enzo. It’s a simple, lively restaurant with checkered tablecloths and specials scrawled on a chalkboard, and it’s exactly the type of place you’ll be dreaming about once you’re back home and nothing in your fridge looks good. Although it’s located on the quieter side of Trastevere, this trattoria is always buzzing, with a perpetual line snaking out the door. To make waiting more enjoyable, sip an Aperol spritz while getting to know your soon-to-be fellow diners, discussing whether gelato counts as breakfast (it does). Once you've successfully snagged a seat, start with the crispy artichokes and stracciatella with cherry tomatoes, followed by the silkiest rigatoni alla carbonara you'll ever taste. Wrap up your meal with their tiramisu that has surprising (but very welcome) dollops of Nutella.

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Maela Bonafede

Orma is a fine dining sanctuary where sleek Scandi decor, frosted windows, and soft acoustics make you forget you’re in a city where even the fountains have traffic jams. The food pays homage to Italian recipes from across the country, like candele alla genovese: hearty, al dente tubes of pasta smothered in a slow-cooked, barbecued beef and onion sauce. Local vegetables shine with fresh cheese and herbs, and desserts highlight seasonal fruits paired with more cheese, like persimmon granita with stracchino. We’ve had an incredible a la carte lunch here, and can’t wait to come back for the set menu dinner. On your way to the bathroom, don’t miss the impressive subterranean wine cellar.

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Sara Scanderebech

Trattoria Ai Due Ponti makes quite an impression. Your meal starts with a spread of salami that arrives on a large wooden tray, piled high with five pounds of assorted meats and accompanied by a knife and glove. We’re talking about every type of salami you can imagine—classic, truffle, fennel, ‘nduja, and more—ready to be sliced and self-served until you’ve had your fill. It’s not all cured meats here, though. The pastas, like gricia with asparagus and the deconstructed amatriciana, are great. And the suckling maialino, juicy and encased in thick, crispy skin, is the porky equivalent of a soprano solo you'd see at Teatro dell'Opera. The white tablecloths and antique artwork make it somewhere you’ll want to linger, especially since you're miles away from large tour groups with flags and microphones.

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Annie Replogle

Pizzeria L’Elementare sets the benchmark for Roman-style pizza. It strikes that perfect balance of soft, airy dough with a crispy, cracker-like crust. Our go-to is the marinara doppia loaded with super sweet and juicy Pachino tomatoes, fragrant basil, Sicilian oregano, salty anchovies, and a hint of peperoncino. Their pizza with crispy cubes of potato, thin, crackling strips of pancetta, and provola, also hits the spot. L’Elementare also happens to serve some of the best (and most interesting) supplì of any sit-down pizzeria in Rome, including one filled with fior di latte and ‘nduja. They have four locations across Rome, but we like the Trastevere spot for people-watching at the bars next door.

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Maela Bonafede

Pasticceria Boccione is the sole kosher bakery left in Rome’s historic Jewish Ghetto. This is not a coincidence: their baked tart brimming with a mound of ricotta cheese and thin layer of wild cherry jam is the best in the city. Their second greatest item is their pizza ebraica—a sweet bread filled with candied fruit and toasted nuts. Cram into the bakery (which is smaller than a walk-in closet), place your order with one of the kind sisters who run the place behind the counter, and don’t be alarmed if your baked goods have a cracked crust or burnt edge—that’s all part of the charm.

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Maela Bonafede

Rocco is a quintessential Roman trattoria, with polished terrazzo floors and starched tablecloths, but it feels more relaxed than many other spots in the city. You might find a former president or an Oscar-winning director dining nearby, but that’s because this is their neighborhood spot. The menu features excellent pastas and daily specials, all written in elegant cursive on a chalkboard that changes daily. A standout is their cacio e pepe, perfectly creamy and peppery with textbook al dente spaghetti. Rocco does a single dinner seating and strikes the perfect balance between an elegant night out and a casual weeknight meal—ideal for that outfit you've been saving to wear.

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Saghar Setareh

Ristorante Rocco image

Trattoria Pennestri is the spot to come to for a candlelight dinner. Rustic wooden tables are set with vases of fresh flowers, and oil paintings decorate the cream and bordeaux-colored walls. Their menu offers classics like carbonara, amatriciana, and cacio e pepe, along with less traditional options like pici all’aglione and the distinctly non-Roman seared duck breast with seasonal sauces. Don’t miss their rich chocolate mousse, served with pane carasau, rosemary, and sea salt—one of the best desserts in the city. The wine list may be small, but it’s packed with exceptional bottles from small Italian producers.

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Saghar Setareh

Even though there are white tablecloths on every table, the atmosphere is anything but pretentious at Pecorino. A Sunday lunch here has the vibe of your long-lost cousin’s home who has old family pictures hanging on the wall of relatives you’ve never met or even heard of before. Yes, the waiters are dressed in fancy white button-downs, but you can tell they’ve been working here since they were teenagers, particularly because of how sarcastic and decisive they are. The portions are generous and unhurried, a quality much appreciated when delving into their creamy carbonara and the maltagliati con carciofi—irregularly-shaped flat pasta tossed with garlicky, oily artichokes and pecorino. For dessert, try their light and fluffy zabaione cake that’s sweet and eggy in the best way.

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Maela Bonafede

There are plenty of trattorias around Rome, but when nothing but a fancy tasting menu will do, Zia in Trastevere is your best bet. It’s one of the rare fine dining places where you’ll want to go for fewer courses, since the portions are so rich and satisfying. One standout is the tender filet of peppery steak on top of a smooth hazelnut purée and drizzled with sesame vinaigrette, served with crusty bread and warm incredible butter. The atmosphere is exceptionally quiet, and the waitstaff has a knack for appearing right when you need them. Their wine list is stocked with an impressive selection of bottles—the last time we were there, we tried a rare 1998 vintage white wine from just outside the city that shockingly paired perfectly with every dish (yes, even that peppery steak).

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Maela Bonafede

La Matriciana is old-school Rome at its finest. It encapsulates both the historic elegance of 1870 (when it opened) and the slick, suit-and-tie vibe of the ’60s. The waiters are as sharply dressed as the white-clothed tables, and the food is just as classic. The prosciutto and mozzarella here are unmatched—ham sliced fresh from the bone and extra-creamy cheese delivered daily from Campania. While the name might suggest ordering the amatriciana, we’d go for the velvety gricia or a steaming bowl of tortellini in brodo when the weather turns cool. The crowd is mostly locals: date nights, business dinners, and big family gatherings. And since it’s right across from Rome’s Opera House, it’s the perfect place for before or after the theater.

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Maela Bonafede

Siciliainbocca in Prati feels like one of Palermo’s bustling markets, without all of the singing about ricotta in a thick Sicilian dialect. There are ceramics like pinecones and teste di moro lining the walls, while colorful platters of fruit, vegetables, and the fresh catch of the day sit on display. Definitely get something fried in addition to the excellent eggplant caponata and softly-smoked ricotta served with orange chili marmalade, before diving into whatever their special pasta is. Even if you're convinced there's no room left in your stomach post-dinner-feast, think twice: the sweet granita that’s loaded with milk, sugar, and nuts or fruit and paired with a warm, chewy brioche bun is one of the greatest icy desserts you can find in Rome.

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Saghar Setareh

Pizza al taglio is the perfect snack, especially if it comes from this bakery behind the flower sellers in the Campo de' Fiori. Long strips of pizza bianca get topped with tomato sauce or thinly sliced potatoes, or come stuffed with mortadella or zucchini flowers. Take it all to go and eat it while leaning against a fountain in view of a palace that Michelangelo designed in the next piazza over.

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Saghar Setareh

Romanè is the sit-down restaurant owned by the same team behind Trapizzino. Unlike its counterpart, this is the spot for a more formal dinner, as their tables are lined with lace paper placemats and hand-painted ceramic plates hang on the walls. The menu skips pizza pockets entirely, focusing instead on Roman classics like ultra-creamy carbonara topped with expertly crispy strips of guanciale, as well as pollo alla cacciatora, which consists of chicken simmered slowly with wine, garlic, rosemary, and “magic” (yes, this is a real ingredient, according to their menu). And it’s so good, we can’t help but believe them. They also have an excellent wine list, featuring some great organic and biodynamic bottles from all over Italy.

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Saghar Setareh

Giano in the W hotel has a prix-fixe lunch special that’s one of the best deals in Rome. After you’re seated in their swanky dining room with velvet chairs and sofas, you’ll get a complimentary bread basket filled with crispy housemade focaccia, wheat bread from Antico Forno Roscioli, and flavorful breadsticks, alongside whipped ricotta with olive oil and a dusting of ground capers. That alone could be a meal, but you’ll also get to pick an antipasto and pasta, like the zesty fennel and orange salad and, without exception, spaghetto taratatà. This dish packs a punch: al dente, made-in-house spaghettone is bathed in lemon, garlic, olive oil, and chili flakes, then topped with toasted breadcrumbs, parsley, tuna bottarga, and grouper carpaccio that tastes straight from the Sicilian coast.

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Saghar Setareh

Piatto Romano is located in Testaccio, the neighborhood where cucina Romana was practically invented—hence the abundance of offal on the menu. Start with one of the great daily specials like crispy artichokes and pair them with the miniature fried meatballs made from Italy’s legendary chianina beef. They also serve a fantastically-fresh salad with local mixed greens dressed in a zesty, light vinaigrette (yes, Italians do eat salads). Opt for the ricotta and visciole tart for dessert, and wash it down with a bitter shot of genziana, a gentian root liqueur made in the mountains of Abruzzo. It’s best for a long, mid-week lunch or a quieter dinner in their newly refurbished dining room.

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Saghar Setareh

Rome is filled with markets, but our go-to is the one in Testaccio. Many of the stalls have been in families for generations selling fish, meat, and produce, and several vendors serve things like fresh pasta, pizza, and sandwiches. Head to Casa Manco for pizza made from dough that’s been leavened for 100 hours, or to Morde e Vai, a sandwich shop that serves up crusty rolls filled with stewed beef, artichokes, or meatballs. You should also try to snag one of the eight stools in front of Da Corrado al Banco 18 for natural wine, rare Italian cheeses, and fantastic pasta specials. Just know that if you go on Mondays, some places might be closed.

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Saghar Seterah

After sidestepping waiters luring you in for an overpriced aperitivo, stop for dinner at Dar Filettaro in Campo de' Fiori. It’s our pick for Rome’s iconic baccalà, the massive filet of fried salted cod. Even though the setting is laid back, their fish is anything but casual: so tender yet crispy, you might wake up the Pope with every bite. And you can’t have the baccalà without the puntarelle. The curly chicory shoots tossed in an anchovy vinaigrette bring some much-needed acidity to the party. Grab a table outside on the lively piazza where you can gaze at the slightly-leaning Santa Barbara dei Librai church.

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Maela Bonafede

Suggested Reading

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The Best Pasta In Rome

Caravaggios and Baroque fountains are great, but admit it, you’re in Rome for the pasta. 

The al taglio sliced pepper slice from Bonci Pizzarium.

Rome wasn’t built in a day, but its pizza can be devoured in minutes.

Cone of gelato at FataMorgana

Did you really visit Rome if you didn't eat gelato at least once a day?

A spread of dishes and wine on a bench outside.

Possibly the best Roman neighborhood for food and people-watching in piazzas.

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