The move at Colline Emiliane is to order a bottle of lambrusco and start with the house antipasto, which comes with gnocco fritto, slices of prosciutto, and chunks of parmesan. From there, choose your pasta: the tagliatelle alla bolognese, lasagne verdi, tortelli di zucca, and the hearty tortellini in brodo are all exceptional. If you can, save room for the giambonetto, a veal slow cooked in milk and served with mashed potatoes.