The first time I drove the spectacular Oregon coast as it unspooled along Highway 101, I was mystified. Every 10 miles or so, a sign reading “Tsunami Hazard Zone” appeared. Tsunamis in Oregon? Although the dark waters are stormy here, spitting up geysers like the Devil’s Churn, the idea seemed preposterous. As a Californian used to earthquakes, I scoffed. Then, in the summer of 2015, The New Yorker ran a story titled, “The Really Big One,” about a catastrophic earthquake fated to destroy most of the coastal Northwest. I haven’t dissed the signs since.
Still, the threat of tsunami is hardly a reason to miss the singular beauty of the Oregon coast. A century ago, Oswald West, Oregon’s governor, had the wisdom to preserve the entire 363-mile coastline for public use. Today, the rugged land remains uniquely unspoiled, with old-growth forests, churning surf, and pretty seaside towns flanked by lighthouses.
But with such a long, enticing coast, where do you begin? Although you can drive the meandering route in a day, the 158-mile stretch from Astoria in the north to Yachats on the central coast is particularly appealing, with its range of dramatic scenery, marine life, outdoor activities, and cultural offerings. During the winter, thousands of gray whales swim past on their way to the warm lagoons of Baja California. Here’s where you should stop in as you make your own coastal journey.
Perched above the Columbia River, Astoria is the oldest western settlement west of the Rockies—and it’s just two hours from the Portland Airport. With its grand Victorian houses, art galleries, antique shops, bookstores, and breweries, the town has undergone a renaissance in recent years. Once a thriving shipping and fishing port, Astoria was best known as the home of the Bumble Bee tuna cannery. Although the cannery was shuttered, the huge waterfront facility lives on as Pier 39 Astoria, a mix of nautical-theme shops, law offices, artists’ lofts, and the Rogue Ales Public House. The blustery afternoon I visited, a vendor was selling Dungeness crab out of a live tank. I grabbed a latte at Coffee Girl and then wandered a memorial hallway where former cannery workers had signed their names and the dates they’d been employed. For lunch, I headed up the hill to Blue Scorcher Bakery and Café, a vegetarian restaurant and cooperative that serves a delicious selection of homemade breads, pastries, organic coffees, salads, and sandwiches. The two twentysomething baristas waiting on me had recently moved to Astoria from Georgia and Ethiopia, and loved the scenic town where The Goonies was shot.
For sweeping views of the landscape, climb the Astoria Column, a spiral staircase of 164 steps leading to an observation deck. For similar reasons, stay at the Cannery Pier Hotel with its glimpses of the river and the Astoria-Megler Bridge. Built on the site of a former historic cannery, the many-windowed hotel is like being outdoors, only with fireplaces, a spa, and modern furnishings. Every room is equipped with binoculars. As the sun set, I watched a parade of freighters glide under the steel bridge. For dinner, I walked to the Bridgewater Bistro, a seafood restaurant housed in a beautifully restored cannery building.
A short drive from Astoria, Cannon Beach is one of the coast’s more touristy destinations. It’s rife with quirky shops and art galleries, and even has a cooking school. Yet the town’s stretches of empty beach, its iconic Haystack Rock, where puffins and other seabirds nest, and its hiking trails through misty forests of Sitka spruce make the area a recreational paradise. The hike to Cape Lookout, one of the prettiest paths, winds through 2.5 miles of lush forest to a headland overlooking the Pacific. A bit farther south, take a lovely walk on the flat sandy beach at Hug Point State Recreation Site, where you can also find tide pools, caves, and a waterfall.
Beloved by Oregonians, Yachats is aptly called the gem of the Oregon coast. With barely 1,000 residents, the town has an intimate, friendly vibe, with great local eating spots like the Green Salmon Coffee Shop, Yachats Brewing, and Luna Sea Fish House, where the owner is a legendary fisherman who catches the fresh fish of the day. Yachats is also home to perhaps the most dramatic natural scenery on the coast: the towering Siuslaw National Forest and the jagged volcanic Pacific shore. A few miles south, you’ll want to explore Cape Perpetua, the highest point on the coast. This untouched wilderness has miles of trails that wind through spruce and fir trees, past Native American shell middens and tide pools. This time, through a light rain, I hiked part of the Amanda Trail, or Oregon’s so-called Trail of Tears. In spring, the forested path brightens with wildflowers.
With its dreamy spa looking out on the ocean, the Overleaf Lodge and Spa takes full advantage of its rustic setting. Every room in the family-owned, three-story lodge has an ocean view. The lodge also hosts many events, including wine tastings featuring Oregon wineries, and the Historic 801 Trail is just outside the breakfast-room doors. One windy morning as I walked along the beach, I saw a group of girls in rubber boots and hooded coats, digging a channel in the damp sand. Simple entertainment appears everywhere on the Oregon coast.