Ms. Hesser brought us this recipe for the classic Roman stew back in 2002 after she visited Rome with her family. Oxtails are a fatty and tough cut of meat, but here, a lengthy braise yields a rich, unctuous sauce seasoned with cinnamon, clove and marjoram. It's delicious by itself or served over a hearty pasta, like rigatoni. And don't be deterred by the large amount of celery the recipe calls for. It reduces to a flavorful pulpy slurry that will surprise you.